Give Us Our Monthly ...

Three days ago, Duang and I went to Tahsang Village to assist one of her Aunts. Duang's Aunt needed to go to the Amphur Offices in Kumphawapi to register to receive year monthly allotments during 2010 or 2553 of the Buddhist calendar here in Thailand.

In Thailand, as part of one of the King's programs, the government gives 500 Baht ($15.11 USD) each month for Thai citizens who are 60 years and older. Government officials go out into the villages on the first Monday of each month to hand out the money to qualified recipients. The people of the village go to the village community building or community pavilion, present their National ID card, and collect their money once their identity is cross checked against the master list. The process is very similar to going to the polls in the USA to vote in an election or referendum.

In addition to people over 60 years old getting a monthly allowance, people with disabilities also receive 500 bahts a month. Elderly people who also are found to have disabilities receive an additional 500 bahts per month allowance. Duang's Aunt is blind and over 60 years old so she gets $30.22 USD a month - her only income. This is her only income. In perspective, a 50 kilogram sack of rice costs 500 baht or $15.11 USD. Elderly Lao Loum people continue to work as long as they physically can after which they rely upon their children, typically their youngest daughter to provide for their basic needs. In the Isaan culture people readily and freely share their food which is good given the lack of resources available to elderly people. After Monks have taken their food offered by people, the remaining offerings are available for lay people to consume.

Duang's Mother had called the previous day to ask us to take care of the Aunt. We drove her to the Amphur Offices and Duang ensured that she was properly registered in order for she would receive her 1,000 bahts each month during the upcoming new year.

The parking lot of the Amphur offices was set up to process all the registrants of the amphur. Canopies and tables were erected at the edge of the parking lot parallel to the city street. People at the tables were passing out prepared lunches in Styrofoam containers and plastic cups filled with a special iced drink to the applicants. As I was photographing the food line, some of the workers called out and motioned to me.


They gave me a cup of the special beverage to drink. They told me that it was a special Isaan drink. The drink, called "Kongwan" was very cold and was a version of what I am accustomed to drinking called "cha menow" (ice tea with lemon. Cha Menow is made with tea, sweetened condensed milk and lemon flavoring. However the special drink that I was presented with also had Chinese noodles in it. Very different. Rather unusual in my experience but very refreshing. I drank and chewed some of the drink and brought the rest over to Duang and her Aunt to drink as they stood in line waiting to register.

Other pavilions were set up in the parking lot to shelter the applicants and workers processing the required paperwork. People of all ages and various disabilities along with their caretakers, waited in organized confusion under the late morning sun to complete their application. I use the term "organized confusion" because I saw no lanes, signs, or structure to the process. Some people awaiting their turn had set up plastic chairs scattered amongst the people standing. It was a very fluid process with no clear traffic lanes set up or maintained. I had no idea what was going on but some how it seemed to work. It worked fine for the people. There were no fights, confrontations, arguements or disputes. There was one incident where some people set up chairs that blocked the progress of an old man being moved in a wheelchair. They apparently could not hear so there was an awkward stand off. I got involved and helped to let the people know that they needed to move their chairs to let him and his attendant pass. I then pretended to be a Policeman, like the one in the parking lot, and pantomimed blowing a whistle as I gave them hand motions to return their chairs to their original locations. Since it was going to be awhile before it would be the Aunt's turn, I took her to another pavilion that had plastic chairs set up for people to wait sheltered from the sun. There were a couple leather couches under the canopy, but I have lived long enough in Isaan to know that they were reserved for Monks or Officials. Around us some Amphur workers were organizing and supervising games for entertaining the people. I also found it entertaining - teams building long poles out of plastic straws, teams doing relay races in passing an egg between themselves using only a metal spoon in their mouths.


After an hour and one half, Duang's Aunt had her turn at the registration table. Some people had books similar to passbooks or Thai House Registration Books that identified them as "PWD" (Person With Disability). Duang's Aunt did not have one for some unknown reason. It did not seem to matter. Each person was interviewed and after stating their disability, they were checked by an offical who was filling out their papers. Duang's Aunt is blind apparently from cataracts. The pupils of both eyes are white and no responsive. The official shined a flashlight in each of her eyes and satisfied himself that she was indeed blind. Her papers were completed and stamped for submittal as well as processing by another official. Duang told me to return to our home and she would return later in the afternoon with her son.

When Duang returned home later in the afternoon she told me that it took another 2 hours to complete the process. despite the time and effort, I felt good that we were able to help someone who needed the help.

Blurb Publisher's Holiday Discount - "Isaan Introspections"

Isaan Introspe...

A Falang's Insights...

By Allen A. Hale

Book Preview

Blurb is running a discount program for the Holiday season. There is a discount of $10 USD on my second book "Isaan Introspections, A Falang's Insights Into the Lao Loum Experience of North East Thailand""

I have books in the Blurb Bookstore that might make great holiday gifts. Blurb will give you $10 off on your first order for any of my books.

Just use the codes below when you place your order, which are based on location and currency (the promo code must match currency used).

Orders from the US (using US $): GREATGIFT

Orders from UK (using UK £): GREATGIFT2

Orders from EU (using EU €): GREATGIFT3

Orders from AU (using AUD $): GREATGIFT4


*Offer valid through December 31, 2009 (11:59 p.m. PST). This offer covers $10, £6, €8, or AUD $12 off the product total on your order of Blurb books of at least $29.95, £16.95, €24.95, or AUD $39.95, to one address. This offer is good for one-time use. Valid for transactions in US $, UK £, EUR €, or AUD $ only. Not valid toward the purchase of gift cards or items in the Blurb Gift Center. This offer cannot be combined with any other offer or used for adjustments on previous orders.

Blurb Publisher's Holiday Discount - A Year In Thailand

A YEAR IN THAI...

The Beginning of a ...

By Allen A. Hale

Book Preview

Blurb is running a discount program for the Holiday season. There is a discount of $10 USD on my first book "A Year In Thailand, The Beginning of a New Life"

I have books in the Blurb Bookstore that might make great holiday gifts. Blurb will give you $10 off on your first order for any of my books.

Just use the codes below when you place your order, which are based on location and currency (the promo code must match currency used).

Orders from the US (using US $): GREATGIFT

Orders from UK (using UK £): GREATGIFT2

Orders from EU (using EU €): GREATGIFT3

Orders from AU (using AUD $): GREATGIFT4


*Offer valid through December 31, 2009 (11:59 p.m. PST). This offer covers $10, £6, €8, or AUD $12 off the product total on your order of Blurb books of at least $29.95, £16.95, €24.95, or AUD $39.95, to one address. This offer is good for one-time use. Valid for transactions in US $, UK £, EUR €, or AUD $ only. Not valid toward the purchase of gift cards or items in the Blurb Gift Center. This offer cannot be combined with any other offer or used for adjustments on previous orders.

"I Never Will Play the Wild Rover No More" - RIP Liam

I learned today the passing of Liam Clancy, the last surviving member of the groups, "Clancy Brothers" and "The Clancy Brothers and Tommy Makem".

Liam died on Friday 4 December in Ireland from a form of cancer. He was 74 years old.

My grandfather had once remarked that the worst part of getting old was that your mind kept expecting your body to do things that it no longer could. He was usually correct, so the second worst part of getting old must be seeing others that mean much to you moving on. So it is with Liam. Tommy Makem passed in 2007, so the "Clancy Brothers" and the "Clancy Brothers and Tommy Makem" are no longer physically with us. Fortunately their music lives on. Their music is available on vinyl, CDs, and MP3. Some of their performances can be viewed on the Internet via You-Tube. We are fortunate to be able to enjoy and cherish such a rich heritage that they have given us.

I first was introduced to the Clancy Brothers when I was in Junior High School. My father had given me a small transistor radio that I would listen to "Folk Singers New York" hosted by Rambling Jack Elliott. It was in the early to mid 1960s with wonderful folk singers such as Joan Baez, Bob Dylan, Pete Seeger, Phil Ochs, Tim Hardin, as well as groups like the Clancy Brothers introducing a whole new world of struggle, hardships, and oppression to anyone who would listen. The new songs of protest meddled quite freely as well as effectively with the old traditional songs from long ago.

I particularly enjoyed the rowdy songs of the Clancy Brothers. I was drawn to the Irish songs of rebellion and drinking perhaps not unexpectedly for a boy in the midst of puberty.

One of the best concerts that I ever attended was in 1978. I was living and working in Northern Alberta - 800 miles north of the US border. Fort McMurray was a boom town in those days and just as wild. Winters got down to -40F which is the same as -40C. There were 30 frost free days a year up there. There was not much for entertainment at the time. One spring night, we drove up the hill from the lower town where we lived to attend a concert at the school. Liam Clancy and Tommy Makem were performing. The venue was very simple - a school cafeteria with portable metal chairs. The concert was just these two fantastic musicians and singers along with their instruments. There were no backup singers, lighting or even amplified sound. It was very intimate with perhaps 100 people in the audience. They performed all the Irish folk standards and conversed freely with the audience. At that time, Liam Clancy was living in Calgary and had an award winning television series on Canadian TV. They sang with such energy, passion, and emotion that it was difficult to consider it as a formal concert rather than a jam session with life long friends.

Years later, when I was living in the San Francisco Bay Area, there was a concert at UC-Berkeley - "The Clancy Brothers and Tommy Makem in Reunion". Naturally I attended the concert and thoroughly enjoyed it. I consider myself fortunate to have witnessed the talent of these famous performers. Liam's ballads were as poignant as ever.

Now they are all gone. Listening to them on my MP3 player will not be the same from now on. I will get used to the fact that they have moved on and I will remind myself that the world was enriched by their music which will endure. It is still sad that Liam will not be performing anew "I Never Will Play th Wild Rover No More"

Rest In Peace, Liam.

Our weather here in Isaan continues to be very pleasant - high temperatures in the low to mid 80's F with plenty of sunshine. I believe that the humidity is also down. The weather is very good for continuing the rice harvest. The rice harvest continues and is focused mainly on gathering up the rice and threshing the rice. Today on our trip out to Tahsang Village, there was still plenty of activity in the rice paddies.

Villagers are occupied in bringing the dry sheaves of rice to the threshing machine to separate the rice kernels from the straw stalk. The straw is ejected to form a pile that is used to feed cattle. The rice is bagged at the end of the threshing machine. The bags of rice are brought back to the village and stored until they are taken to the miller to have the husk removed. Only after milling can the "sticky rice" be soaked overnight and steamed prior to eating.





The sugar cane harvest has started to accelerate as well. Some of the fields have already been harvested and we came upon a field in the process of being harvested. Several Lao Loum farmers dressed as they had for harvesting rice had traded in their sickles for a thick and heavy machete type knives to cut the cane. They had spread out single file across the face of the sugar cane field and were cutting their way into the towering mass of dry cane. The harvested canes are roughly trimmed of dry leaves and placed on the ground for further processing. Later the canes will be completely trimmed and bundled together for transportation from the field to the refinery. The staging area for cane trucks just outside of the sugar refinery in Kumphawapi has started to acquire the large tandem truckloads of cane. The road from Kumphawapi to Tahsang Village has recently been rebuilt and repaved. It is very nice now that all the potholes have been eliminated. Unfortunately with the unset of the sugar cane harvest, the road will most likely return to its normal pot holed state by the end of the harvest in March.

We had gone out to the village in preparation for Father's Day. No, we are not jumping the gun on the holiday. In Thailand, Father's day is celebrated on the King's Birthday which is 5 December. Duang has been very busy lately sewing. She has made several skirts, pants as well as a blouse for herself, a skirt and complete pants suit for her mother along with three skirts for my mother. For Father's Day, she is going to make a new pair of pants for her father.

As a young boy I often watched my mother sew dresses for my sister prior to the start of each school year. Watching Duang is a completely different experience. My mother always went to a store and browsed through various catalogs. From the catalogs she obtained a size and style designation for what she wanted to make. My mom or a clerk then went to a large set of cabinets and retrieved the applicable pattern. The patterns were a series of thin tissue paper templates that were pinned to cloth for cutting into that various sections to be sewn. Duang does not go and and purchase ready made patterns - if they even exist here in Isaan.

Twenty years ago Duang was taught by a woman how to create patterns and to sew as part of the King's program to assist Lao Loum women. Duang has a book that indicates where to take various measurements. Duang writes the measurements down in her notebook. From the measurements she uses measuring tape, steel straight edge, and steel curves to draft her own patterns based upon the measurements that she has taken on large sheets of plain paper. Rather than sitting at a drafting table or even a kitchen table, Duang squats in the dining room and draws upon the paper as it lies on the tile floor. Once the templates meet her satisfaction, she cuts them, pins them to the fabric and then cuts the cloth into the appropriate shapes.


Her sewing machine is set up next to my computer work station in the dining room so we spend much of our day side by side working away on our individual projects - not a bad way to spend a day.

The scheduled "Battle of the Villages" is actually at the end of this month so there will not be pictures of school children competing for about a month. We have made some calls to Laos to determine when the Hmong people will be celebrating Hmong New Years this month. It appears that the celebration will be Dec 16 to 18th. The Khmu people in Lack Paid Village have not decided on when they will have their festival this year. The Village Headman will be able to tell us on December 10. With some luck we will be able to attend both events later this month.

Yes, They Khene

Last Sunday, around 7:30 P.M., we received a phone call from Duang's brother, "Number 4", asking us to attend a performance that he was giving in Udonthani that night at 9:00 P.M. I always enjoy the shows as well as the very interesting people watching opportunities that the audiences always provide so we accepted without hesitation.

Well it turned out that the performance was not exactly in Udonthani, as in the city of Udonthani, although we had to drive through the city to get to the location. However, the village was in Udon Thani Province so perhaps it was our misinterpretation. Fortunately his girlfriend waited for us in her car inside the city so that we could follow her to the performance.

The performance was held in a small farming village typical of this area of Isaan - in the middle of the rice paddies, narrow streets, and a combination of raised wooden houses and concrete block homes.

Upon arrival we realized that this was another funeral celebration. Several awnings had been erected with guests seated at tables that had bottles of beer as well as whiskey set upon them. Some young women and young men were busy bringing food to the guests.


Off to the side of the awnings and next to the house was a long table. Upon the table were three "bahn" (Thai) "hehan" (Lao). These are handcrafted spirit houses made largely out of banana stalks and bammboo. They are quite ornate and are used as and in offerings to the spirits. Next to each bahn was a framed photograph of a deceased family member. Small yellow candles were burning in front of the photographs.

The people of Isaan, the ethnic Lao Loum, believe that the spirits of deceased people need to be nourished with food and drink. As part of their Buddhist beliefs, the people believe that they can assist their ancestors in the after life by earning "merit" for them. Buddhists believe that we are in a continuous cycle of of birth, death, and rebirth until we reach enlightenment. Until we reach enlightenment, our new life's status is determined on how we lived our last life and how much "merit" we had gained. Living relatives can earn merit for themselves as well as for their specified departed loved ones by making offerings in their name and honor. Often these celebrations are held one year following the person's death however the ceremony is quite often delayed until the family can save enough money to afford it.


Part of the celebration involves having a group like Duang's brother's to perform. It is quite interesting to see go-go dancers, electric guitars, and electric organ perform in an event associated with death. One thing for certain is that at these events there will be playing of the khene.


The khene is a free reed bamboo musical instrument. It is the quintessence of Lao culture and the Lao experience. The khene, which is also spelled "kaen", "khen", and "khaen" is a mouth organ comprised of several bamboo tubes of various lengths, each with a free reed inserted in them connected to a hardwood chamber. The instrument has been around for thousands of years and is considered the mother of Lao music.

Kaens come in various sizes but all sizes share the similarity of being constructed of two rows of bamboo tubes. There is a 6 tube size, 14 tubes, 16 tubes, and 18 tube size. The length of the khene is related to the number of the tubes with the 18 tube version also being the longest of the instruments.

The khene is played by blowing into the central chamber and using the fingers of both hands to change the notes. The instrument is related to the harmonica and accordion of Western music. The sound, to me, is a very rhythmic "sing-song" sort of like a "Hee-Hawing" or braying of a donkey. I find the music to be rather hypnotic and I can easily accept as well as recognize its ancient heritage.

As part of the morlham shows that are widely held throughout Isaan, a portion of the show is focused around the traditional music of Laos or more specifically "Lao" people. Laos is a political demarcation determined in a large part by the European colonial powers. The ethnic Lao people, in particular the Lao Loum, Low Land Lao, inhabit Northeast Thailand as well as Laos. The shows typically start off with rocking electrified music complete with go-go dancers. After about three or four of these songs, which seem intended to get every one's attention as well as to stir them up, the tribute to the Lao traditions starts. The recognition of today's music's origins as well as honoring the Lao Loum heritage involves singing with only a khene as accompaniment. The songs initially are performed by either an older man or woman. They sing traditional songs in the traditional style. The traditional style involves an introduction that involves the extended pronunciation of words in a sort of warbling tone. Each word is stretched out using the singer's complete range until it seems that they will run out of breadth. After the introduction, the singer sings in such a manner that their voice is almost as much an musical instrument as singing the words. As much as I detest American "Rap" and "Hip Hop" (I won't call them music), the traditional Lao music is similar in that it tells stories with the verses often being created on the spot. I am pretty certain that the violence and vulgar lyrics of the modern form is not used in the Lao.

For funeral celebrations the traditional portion is a greater part of the performance. I get the feeling that the traditional music serves as a link and bridge to the past a manifestation of the bonds that keep the family traditions alive. After several traditional songs, the band will play several modern songs - several of which utilize the khene. Since the khene is not an amplified instrument, the khene player will either stick a microphone in his belt or the singer next to the khene player will use their microphone to ensure that the audience can hear the khene.


After completing the modern music set, the performance returns to a very traditional ritual. The relatives of the deceased go up on stage and kneel facing the audience. The relatives have offerings of food, drink, and items such as sahts (woven reed mats) and mohn (ornately decorated small rectangle pillows)set before them along with a framed photograph of the deceased. A singer then will perform several traditional Lao songs in the warbling lament style with only the amplified khene providing the accompaniment.

After the offering ritual, the show returns to it's modern music. The khene player provides great entertainment during the modern songs. Whereas during the traditional music, he was very still and respectful, during the modern songs, he, as we used to say back in Rhode Island - "He gets down and dirty". The khene player dances and prances around the stage while playing. Quite often he accentuates a hard drum beat of the song with a severe pelvic thrust usually in time with similar motions by the go-go dancers. At times the khene player will jump into the air and move his feet through a bicycle motion while playing. On some songs that have fast driving beats, he keeps time to the beat with a flury of pelvic thrusts while playing. No one gets offended. In fact the more antics like this that he does, the more the audience goes up to the stage to give him money.


Yes he khene ("can" - a play on words, they are pronounced the same) and he does.

Big Box Battle -The Struggle Against the Multinationals

My stated goal in both this blog as well as my photography is to share and show how different people in various lands are but in doing so, show how much we are alike.

My experiences have demonstrated to me that people all want the same things - they want to be able to take care of their families, they want to be happy, and they want to live in peace - "Peace" as in the absence of armed conflict, and excessive interference from governments.

With the common desires of people, there are common conflicts and issues that confront people no matter their culture or location.

Earlier this week, I became aware of a current conflict in Khumphawapi that is not unlike the conflict that confronts many smaller communities in the United States. The conflict is the encroachment and impact of "big box" multi-national retailers such as Walmart upon the local business environment.

In Isaan, most people purchase their goods from small stores and markets. I have written about the market in Khumphawapi where vendors rent space either inside the open sided structure or outside to sell their items. These markets are situated throughout the larger towns. In smaller villages, such as Tahsang Village, some people run very small markets, approximately 10 ft by 10 ft, out of their homes to support some of their neighbor's needs. Night markets are set up on specified nights throughout the week to support the greater needs of people living in the smaller villages.

In addition to the above locations where goods and perishables can be purchased, there are larger distribution shops. These larger shops, typically around 30 ft by 30 ft and stacked from floor to ceiling, sell bulk items. It is at these locations, sort of like micro Costco or Sams Club, that the small village shops purchase their inventory to sell back in their village. The price of the goods in these distribution shops, typically owned and run by ethnic Chinese Moms, Pops, and Sons, reflects a discount to the bulk buyer.

Larger cities such as Udonthani have Western style big box retailers such as the British chain "Tesco-Lotus", and the French chain "Carrefour". These stores could be transported to the USA and would not be any bit out of place. In fact it is my understanding that "Tesco-Lotus" is venturing into the American marketplace.

Here in Isaan, the status quo is being challenged mainly by Tesco-Lotus. They are establishing stores outside of the metropolitan areas very similar to the Walmart practise. In addition they are building smaller local mega-shops sort of like mega 7-11's in cities. These endeavors are a threat to the status quo, culture and social fabric of the local peoples.

The current system of markets serves their communities on a very personal level. The vendors for a large part are selling items from their farms or that they have gathered. Duang's sister and brother-in-law often rent space at the Kumphawapi market to sell vegetables from their farm. Other people sell mushrooms that they cultivate at their homes. Shopping at these markets is a social event as much as it is about buying what you need. Gossip, news, and pleasantries are exchanged during shopping. This strengthens and cultivates a sense of community and community commitment unlike the sterile and impersonal experience of shopping in a big box multi-national establishment.

Tesco Lotus is planning on building a large store just outside of Kumphawapi. The land was back filled and prepared for building earlier this year. Construction has not started yet but appears to be imminent.

Just as Walmart entering into a small community, the planned arrival of Tesco-Lotus has stirred up some opposition. Across from the market in downtown Kumphawapi a sign has been erected - a very serious sign. The sign, as translated by Duang, states "You work for Lotus, You will die, now!" I guess it is up to the reader's supposition as to whether their death would be to natural or un-natural causes. For me, it gets my attention and I believe! Interestingly this sign in the middle of town, on the main road through town, 100 feet from where Police are either directing traffic or checking motorcycles for compliance to various laws, remains for over 5 days. We do not know who is behind this sign or similar signs erected around Kumphawapi as well as at the entrance to the projected Tesco-Lotus site but the commonly held suspicion is that it is the ethnic Chinese merchants. It is fairly common in Southeast Asia for the ethnic Chinese merchants to be suspected of any and most nefarious plots.

The struggle against and issues related to big box multi-national stores in Khumphawapi is very much like in the USA however the degree of intimidation being employed is obviously much more transparent.