An Isaan Christmas

As Christmas comes to a close on the West Coast of the USA, we are half way through the next day here in Isaan.

We had a very nice Christmas yesterday in Isaan. In the morning we loaded up the truck with the Christmas cookies that we had baked the previous afternoon - 4 hours of effort. Duang knew intuitively that we would take most of the cookies out to Tahsang Village to give to the little children.

Christmas in Isaan was a normal day. Children had school to attend. Businesses were open. Farmers were working in their fields.

The country roads are now travelled by trucks of all sizes transporting harvested sugar cane to the local refineries. In some areas, where there is readily available water, the paddies are being prepared for a second crop of rice. It will not rain again until May so it is essential that a reliable natural source of ground water be available for a successful crop. Rice in Isaan is grown using the wet land method so most farmers are able to only harvest a single crop per year.

On our way out to Tahsang Village we stopped in the village to bring our grandson, Peelawat, his portion of the cookies. Peelawat was asleep outdoors in a hammock watched over by his Great Grandfather. Peelawat's outfit for the day was laying on the platform underneath his hammock. His Uncle, Duang's son had given him a Christmas Santa Claus suit. It was a red snow suit - pants, jacket and elf hat with white trim.



Peelawat and his mother joined us on our trip out to Tahsang Village. We passed some relatives with their babies walking along the village road and told them to meet us at Duang's mother's house. Soon we had the babies all assembled to receive their cookies. Typical of babies here in Isaan, their faces had been powdered to protect them from the sun. What cookies that the grownups managed to save for themselves were devoured by the children. In five minutes, the product of our four hours of effort were completely devoured. The children were very happy to have some treats and we enjoyed watching them.





After our visit in Tahsang, on our way back to Peelawat's village, we stopped at a local school. At the end of the year there are competitions between the students of the local schools. On Christmas, Tahsang Village was competing against another local village. The school's athletic field was ringed with push carts selling food and drinks. At some of the cement tables and benches that the students use to eat their lunch, some men were congregating drinking Lao Kao (moonshine style whiskey) Under the shade of trees, families and teams were resting, relaxing, and eating picnic style atop sahts (woven reed mats). It was very festive as well as interesting.

The students competed in volleyball, futball (soccer), and takraw. Takraw is similar to volleyball but uses a 12 cm woven rattan ball and you can not use your hands - only your feet and head.

The competition between the schools was fierce but good sportsmanship as well as good manners was very evident. It was quite entertaining. As an added bonus, Tahsang Village was triumphant. The teacher who was also the coach of the volleyball team received money from some of the happy adults. She gave each of the team members 100 baht to buy food and drinks. I am not totally familiar with NCAA rules, but I suspect that players receiving money, albeit $3.00, is some kind of violation. Fortunately, Thailand is not so concerned with student athlete regulations. Also, although the players were no older than 13 years old, I did not observe any potential US university caliber talent. It was just great to see children enjoying themselves and trying their best. It was a great experience.



After returning Peelawat and his mother to their home, we returned to our home to complete our holiday celebration. I made, as best I could, a traditional holiday meal for Duang, her son, and his girlfriend. Many of the ingredients for a traditional meal are available in Isaan but with ingenuity, creativity, substitutions, and alternatives a fine feast was produced - turkey breast, garlic potatoes, stuffing, steamed carrots, gravy, and Christmas cookies. I suspect that they liked it because all plates were cleared.

All and all it was a very pleasant day - a Christmas in Isaan.

As in most aspects of life it amounted to being thankful and enjoying what we have rather than dwelling upon what we don't have or what we would like to have.

Christmas Eve In Isaan

It is now Christmas Eve in Isaan.

Christmas comes early to Thailand - due to the International Date Line.

I got motivated yesterday and decided to share a little of my past and culture with Duang, my Lao Loum wife. I decided to make a traditional Christmas dinner for us, a task made all that more difficult because we live in Isaan. There are many alternatives and substitutions required to recreate an American tradition here.

First of all there is no hoping or wondering if there will be a White Christmas. It does not snow here in Isaan in fact when it does get "cold" here it is more likely to be around 65 to 70F.

Secondly, there are not very many Christians here in Isaan. Like the rest of Thailand 95% of the people are Buddhists. Despite the small number of Christians, ther are Christmas decorations in the malls and many of the businesses. Christmas music is also played in the shopping malls at this time of the year. The overall effect is to provide a flavor of the holiday without the craziness of the season in America. Yesterday we went to the Mall to try to pick up some last minute items for tomorrow's dinner. The Mall was not crowded at all. We were unable to find everything that we need for dinner - items like white wine, pork sausage for stuffing, bread cubes for stuffing, yams, and dates for special Christmas cookies.

Today we drove to another store to see if we could complete our list. At the French based grocery store, we found a bottle of Gewurztraminer - a product of Thailand. I could not find a Wine Spectator rating for 2006 Knight Black Horse wine - no matter the case I am just thankful to find a bottle of white wine. It will be used in the stuffing as well as in the gravy. Whatever is left over we will hopefully enjoy drinking with our meal. I could not find any typical pork sausage so I will substitute some English Breakfast Sausages that I had in the freezer. There were no dates so the stuffed Christmas cookies have figs substituted for the dates. I found some sweet potatoes to substitute for yams in making candied yams. Duang pointed out several worm holes in the 5 remaining potatoes so we will have steamed carrots instead. There is no point in getting upset or stressed in not finding everything to have a traditional celebration. This is Isaan and not America. I am thankful to be able to enjoy the day with my wife and be able to give her a little glimpse into my heritage.

Tonight as I started this blog, I got a phone call from Bangkok. A very good friend of mine from my last job in Thailand and a friend of Duang's called to wish me a Merry Christmas. Just as back in the USA, it is the best wishes of family and friends that truly makes the holiday special.

Today we baked Christmas cookies all afternoon long. Tomorrow we will bring the cookies to our Grandson, Peelawat, and the other children in Tahsang Village. They don't celebrate Christmas or even know about its significance but being children I am certain that they will enjoy the sweet treats. Of course their parents and grandparents can enjoy them too - there will be plenty for all.

When I was divorced and had custody of my two sons, I always made cookies and a traditional meal to celebrate Christmas. That was a long time ago and far away so now the tradition will continue for my new family here in Isaan.

So tonight will be low key and relaxing for us here in Isaan. There are no gifts to wrap. There are no private or family parties for us to attend. There are no wagons, bicycles or hot wheels to assemble. Duang and I will just lounge around and wind down from our long afternoon of baking as well as cleaning. There are drinking pavilions set up along with performing stages set up in downtown Udonthani across from the Mall. They will be open starting tonight until the New Year.

Perhaps New Years Eve, we will check it out but Christmas Eve, for me, is for family and quiet reflection.

Merry Christmas.

Give Us Our Monthly ...

Three days ago, Duang and I went to Tahsang Village to assist one of her Aunts. Duang's Aunt needed to go to the Amphur Offices in Kumphawapi to register to receive year monthly allotments during 2010 or 2553 of the Buddhist calendar here in Thailand.

In Thailand, as part of one of the King's programs, the government gives 500 Baht ($15.11 USD) each month for Thai citizens who are 60 years and older. Government officials go out into the villages on the first Monday of each month to hand out the money to qualified recipients. The people of the village go to the village community building or community pavilion, present their National ID card, and collect their money once their identity is cross checked against the master list. The process is very similar to going to the polls in the USA to vote in an election or referendum.

In addition to people over 60 years old getting a monthly allowance, people with disabilities also receive 500 bahts a month. Elderly people who also are found to have disabilities receive an additional 500 bahts per month allowance. Duang's Aunt is blind and over 60 years old so she gets $30.22 USD a month - her only income. This is her only income. In perspective, a 50 kilogram sack of rice costs 500 baht or $15.11 USD. Elderly Lao Loum people continue to work as long as they physically can after which they rely upon their children, typically their youngest daughter to provide for their basic needs. In the Isaan culture people readily and freely share their food which is good given the lack of resources available to elderly people. After Monks have taken their food offered by people, the remaining offerings are available for lay people to consume.

Duang's Mother had called the previous day to ask us to take care of the Aunt. We drove her to the Amphur Offices and Duang ensured that she was properly registered in order for she would receive her 1,000 bahts each month during the upcoming new year.

The parking lot of the Amphur offices was set up to process all the registrants of the amphur. Canopies and tables were erected at the edge of the parking lot parallel to the city street. People at the tables were passing out prepared lunches in Styrofoam containers and plastic cups filled with a special iced drink to the applicants. As I was photographing the food line, some of the workers called out and motioned to me.


They gave me a cup of the special beverage to drink. They told me that it was a special Isaan drink. The drink, called "Kongwan" was very cold and was a version of what I am accustomed to drinking called "cha menow" (ice tea with lemon. Cha Menow is made with tea, sweetened condensed milk and lemon flavoring. However the special drink that I was presented with also had Chinese noodles in it. Very different. Rather unusual in my experience but very refreshing. I drank and chewed some of the drink and brought the rest over to Duang and her Aunt to drink as they stood in line waiting to register.

Other pavilions were set up in the parking lot to shelter the applicants and workers processing the required paperwork. People of all ages and various disabilities along with their caretakers, waited in organized confusion under the late morning sun to complete their application. I use the term "organized confusion" because I saw no lanes, signs, or structure to the process. Some people awaiting their turn had set up plastic chairs scattered amongst the people standing. It was a very fluid process with no clear traffic lanes set up or maintained. I had no idea what was going on but some how it seemed to work. It worked fine for the people. There were no fights, confrontations, arguements or disputes. There was one incident where some people set up chairs that blocked the progress of an old man being moved in a wheelchair. They apparently could not hear so there was an awkward stand off. I got involved and helped to let the people know that they needed to move their chairs to let him and his attendant pass. I then pretended to be a Policeman, like the one in the parking lot, and pantomimed blowing a whistle as I gave them hand motions to return their chairs to their original locations. Since it was going to be awhile before it would be the Aunt's turn, I took her to another pavilion that had plastic chairs set up for people to wait sheltered from the sun. There were a couple leather couches under the canopy, but I have lived long enough in Isaan to know that they were reserved for Monks or Officials. Around us some Amphur workers were organizing and supervising games for entertaining the people. I also found it entertaining - teams building long poles out of plastic straws, teams doing relay races in passing an egg between themselves using only a metal spoon in their mouths.


After an hour and one half, Duang's Aunt had her turn at the registration table. Some people had books similar to passbooks or Thai House Registration Books that identified them as "PWD" (Person With Disability). Duang's Aunt did not have one for some unknown reason. It did not seem to matter. Each person was interviewed and after stating their disability, they were checked by an offical who was filling out their papers. Duang's Aunt is blind apparently from cataracts. The pupils of both eyes are white and no responsive. The official shined a flashlight in each of her eyes and satisfied himself that she was indeed blind. Her papers were completed and stamped for submittal as well as processing by another official. Duang told me to return to our home and she would return later in the afternoon with her son.

When Duang returned home later in the afternoon she told me that it took another 2 hours to complete the process. despite the time and effort, I felt good that we were able to help someone who needed the help.

Blurb Publisher's Holiday Discount - "Isaan Introspections"

Isaan Introspe...

A Falang's Insights...

By Allen A. Hale

Book Preview

Blurb is running a discount program for the Holiday season. There is a discount of $10 USD on my second book "Isaan Introspections, A Falang's Insights Into the Lao Loum Experience of North East Thailand""

I have books in the Blurb Bookstore that might make great holiday gifts. Blurb will give you $10 off on your first order for any of my books.

Just use the codes below when you place your order, which are based on location and currency (the promo code must match currency used).

Orders from the US (using US $): GREATGIFT

Orders from UK (using UK £): GREATGIFT2

Orders from EU (using EU €): GREATGIFT3

Orders from AU (using AUD $): GREATGIFT4


*Offer valid through December 31, 2009 (11:59 p.m. PST). This offer covers $10, £6, €8, or AUD $12 off the product total on your order of Blurb books of at least $29.95, £16.95, €24.95, or AUD $39.95, to one address. This offer is good for one-time use. Valid for transactions in US $, UK £, EUR €, or AUD $ only. Not valid toward the purchase of gift cards or items in the Blurb Gift Center. This offer cannot be combined with any other offer or used for adjustments on previous orders.

Blurb Publisher's Holiday Discount - A Year In Thailand

A YEAR IN THAI...

The Beginning of a ...

By Allen A. Hale

Book Preview

Blurb is running a discount program for the Holiday season. There is a discount of $10 USD on my first book "A Year In Thailand, The Beginning of a New Life"

I have books in the Blurb Bookstore that might make great holiday gifts. Blurb will give you $10 off on your first order for any of my books.

Just use the codes below when you place your order, which are based on location and currency (the promo code must match currency used).

Orders from the US (using US $): GREATGIFT

Orders from UK (using UK £): GREATGIFT2

Orders from EU (using EU €): GREATGIFT3

Orders from AU (using AUD $): GREATGIFT4


*Offer valid through December 31, 2009 (11:59 p.m. PST). This offer covers $10, £6, €8, or AUD $12 off the product total on your order of Blurb books of at least $29.95, £16.95, €24.95, or AUD $39.95, to one address. This offer is good for one-time use. Valid for transactions in US $, UK £, EUR €, or AUD $ only. Not valid toward the purchase of gift cards or items in the Blurb Gift Center. This offer cannot be combined with any other offer or used for adjustments on previous orders.

"I Never Will Play the Wild Rover No More" - RIP Liam

I learned today the passing of Liam Clancy, the last surviving member of the groups, "Clancy Brothers" and "The Clancy Brothers and Tommy Makem".

Liam died on Friday 4 December in Ireland from a form of cancer. He was 74 years old.

My grandfather had once remarked that the worst part of getting old was that your mind kept expecting your body to do things that it no longer could. He was usually correct, so the second worst part of getting old must be seeing others that mean much to you moving on. So it is with Liam. Tommy Makem passed in 2007, so the "Clancy Brothers" and the "Clancy Brothers and Tommy Makem" are no longer physically with us. Fortunately their music lives on. Their music is available on vinyl, CDs, and MP3. Some of their performances can be viewed on the Internet via You-Tube. We are fortunate to be able to enjoy and cherish such a rich heritage that they have given us.

I first was introduced to the Clancy Brothers when I was in Junior High School. My father had given me a small transistor radio that I would listen to "Folk Singers New York" hosted by Rambling Jack Elliott. It was in the early to mid 1960s with wonderful folk singers such as Joan Baez, Bob Dylan, Pete Seeger, Phil Ochs, Tim Hardin, as well as groups like the Clancy Brothers introducing a whole new world of struggle, hardships, and oppression to anyone who would listen. The new songs of protest meddled quite freely as well as effectively with the old traditional songs from long ago.

I particularly enjoyed the rowdy songs of the Clancy Brothers. I was drawn to the Irish songs of rebellion and drinking perhaps not unexpectedly for a boy in the midst of puberty.

One of the best concerts that I ever attended was in 1978. I was living and working in Northern Alberta - 800 miles north of the US border. Fort McMurray was a boom town in those days and just as wild. Winters got down to -40F which is the same as -40C. There were 30 frost free days a year up there. There was not much for entertainment at the time. One spring night, we drove up the hill from the lower town where we lived to attend a concert at the school. Liam Clancy and Tommy Makem were performing. The venue was very simple - a school cafeteria with portable metal chairs. The concert was just these two fantastic musicians and singers along with their instruments. There were no backup singers, lighting or even amplified sound. It was very intimate with perhaps 100 people in the audience. They performed all the Irish folk standards and conversed freely with the audience. At that time, Liam Clancy was living in Calgary and had an award winning television series on Canadian TV. They sang with such energy, passion, and emotion that it was difficult to consider it as a formal concert rather than a jam session with life long friends.

Years later, when I was living in the San Francisco Bay Area, there was a concert at UC-Berkeley - "The Clancy Brothers and Tommy Makem in Reunion". Naturally I attended the concert and thoroughly enjoyed it. I consider myself fortunate to have witnessed the talent of these famous performers. Liam's ballads were as poignant as ever.

Now they are all gone. Listening to them on my MP3 player will not be the same from now on. I will get used to the fact that they have moved on and I will remind myself that the world was enriched by their music which will endure. It is still sad that Liam will not be performing anew "I Never Will Play th Wild Rover No More"

Rest In Peace, Liam.

Our weather here in Isaan continues to be very pleasant - high temperatures in the low to mid 80's F with plenty of sunshine. I believe that the humidity is also down. The weather is very good for continuing the rice harvest. The rice harvest continues and is focused mainly on gathering up the rice and threshing the rice. Today on our trip out to Tahsang Village, there was still plenty of activity in the rice paddies.

Villagers are occupied in bringing the dry sheaves of rice to the threshing machine to separate the rice kernels from the straw stalk. The straw is ejected to form a pile that is used to feed cattle. The rice is bagged at the end of the threshing machine. The bags of rice are brought back to the village and stored until they are taken to the miller to have the husk removed. Only after milling can the "sticky rice" be soaked overnight and steamed prior to eating.





The sugar cane harvest has started to accelerate as well. Some of the fields have already been harvested and we came upon a field in the process of being harvested. Several Lao Loum farmers dressed as they had for harvesting rice had traded in their sickles for a thick and heavy machete type knives to cut the cane. They had spread out single file across the face of the sugar cane field and were cutting their way into the towering mass of dry cane. The harvested canes are roughly trimmed of dry leaves and placed on the ground for further processing. Later the canes will be completely trimmed and bundled together for transportation from the field to the refinery. The staging area for cane trucks just outside of the sugar refinery in Kumphawapi has started to acquire the large tandem truckloads of cane. The road from Kumphawapi to Tahsang Village has recently been rebuilt and repaved. It is very nice now that all the potholes have been eliminated. Unfortunately with the unset of the sugar cane harvest, the road will most likely return to its normal pot holed state by the end of the harvest in March.

We had gone out to the village in preparation for Father's Day. No, we are not jumping the gun on the holiday. In Thailand, Father's day is celebrated on the King's Birthday which is 5 December. Duang has been very busy lately sewing. She has made several skirts, pants as well as a blouse for herself, a skirt and complete pants suit for her mother along with three skirts for my mother. For Father's Day, she is going to make a new pair of pants for her father.

As a young boy I often watched my mother sew dresses for my sister prior to the start of each school year. Watching Duang is a completely different experience. My mother always went to a store and browsed through various catalogs. From the catalogs she obtained a size and style designation for what she wanted to make. My mom or a clerk then went to a large set of cabinets and retrieved the applicable pattern. The patterns were a series of thin tissue paper templates that were pinned to cloth for cutting into that various sections to be sewn. Duang does not go and and purchase ready made patterns - if they even exist here in Isaan.

Twenty years ago Duang was taught by a woman how to create patterns and to sew as part of the King's program to assist Lao Loum women. Duang has a book that indicates where to take various measurements. Duang writes the measurements down in her notebook. From the measurements she uses measuring tape, steel straight edge, and steel curves to draft her own patterns based upon the measurements that she has taken on large sheets of plain paper. Rather than sitting at a drafting table or even a kitchen table, Duang squats in the dining room and draws upon the paper as it lies on the tile floor. Once the templates meet her satisfaction, she cuts them, pins them to the fabric and then cuts the cloth into the appropriate shapes.


Her sewing machine is set up next to my computer work station in the dining room so we spend much of our day side by side working away on our individual projects - not a bad way to spend a day.

The scheduled "Battle of the Villages" is actually at the end of this month so there will not be pictures of school children competing for about a month. We have made some calls to Laos to determine when the Hmong people will be celebrating Hmong New Years this month. It appears that the celebration will be Dec 16 to 18th. The Khmu people in Lack Paid Village have not decided on when they will have their festival this year. The Village Headman will be able to tell us on December 10. With some luck we will be able to attend both events later this month.