The Night Before ... Wai Khru Wat Bang Phra

Installing A Sak Yant

One of the main reasons for our journey to Nakhon Pathom, a region west of Bangkok, was to attend the annual Wat Bang Phra Tattoo Festival.

There are many temples in Thailand where you can receive a yantric tattoo (magical tattoo) from either a Monk or from a highly trained lay person called, according to my wife, "Tapawkao".  A Tapawkao is one step below a Monk and one step above a Brahman.  Duang's deceased uncle was a Brahman and led the laypeople in all the merit making rituals at the village wat.  He acted as a priest type leader for the people - leading the chants, making the offerings, and interacting with the Monks who served their own role and had their own chants in the rituals.  Duang's uncle also performed Animist rituals such as Baii Sii ceremony, spirit house installations, our wedding ritual, and house blessings.

Tapawkaos receive much longer and more intense training for Bikkhus (ordained Buddhist monastics, "Monks") than Brahmans.

Prior to embarking on our trip to Nakhon Pathom, I did quite a bit of research on the Internet.  I even watched an episode of "The Tattoo Hunter" related to the Wat Bang Phra Tattoo Festival.  There was a great deal of information ot there about Sak Yant and the festival.  Much of the information appears to have come from a single source.

I have often written that my purpose in this blog effort is to share what I have seen, and experienced regarding the different aspects of culture here in southeast asia.  I know that there are times when what I write contradicts other sources of information.  Often I attribute this to the juxtaposition of  "The way things are supposed to be and the way they actually are"

To ensure that I accurately describe what I have observed, I often verify with my wife, Duangchan, to verify the accuracy and content of my writings.  What I eventually share on my blog is an accurate rendition of my obsevations of the events.

Duang Making An Offering and Receiving Blessing From the Abbott

You can obtain a Yak Sant tattoo daily at Wat Bang Phra.  However during the night before the Tattoo Festival, many people make a pilgrimage to the temple to be tattooed prior to the ceremony the next morning.  The Monks and Tapawkaos tattoo people throughout the night.  I have found that here in Thailand it is always best to be on site the day before the official scheduled start of any festival.  A good example of this is the Poi Sang Long Festival in Maehongson - we always arrive the day before the "start" of the festival to witness the ritual involving the shaving of the young boy's heads in the late afternoon.  I suspected that the same would be true for the tattoo festival.

After checking into our hotel and making a visit to Wat Sawang Arom, we arrived at Wat Bang Phra around 4 P.M.

The Wat is a fairly large complex with many buildings.  Many people were busy setting up booths and stalls.  Other people were occupied with preparing and cooking food in makeshift outdoor  kitchens.  There were many people but I would not catagorize the area as crowded.

After wandering about a little, we found a building where two people, one man and one woman, were being tattooed by two Tapawkaos.  I know that they were Tapakaos because they wore ordinary white clothing and their heads had not been shaved.  We asked one of the men that was stretching the skin for the tattoo process if I could take photographs.  He indicated that we had to talk to the Abbott about taking photographs.  We left that building and found the large building where the Abbott was.

We asked the young man who was assisting the Abbott about taking photographs of the tattooing process.  The young man suggested that we make an offering and discuss it with the Abbott.  Duang walked over to the desk where offerings of orchids, two joss sticks, and two small candles were for sale.  She returned and we knelt before the Abbott and made our offering to him.  After receiving his blessing, we inquired about taking photographs.  The Abbott's assistant asked about if the pictures were for television.  Duang explained to the assistant about how I take photographs, write stories about life in Thailand, and place them on the Internet. In very short time, I had permission to take photographs except for photographs of women being tattooed by Monks.  We placed an offering of money in an envelope and handed it to the assistant.  In return he handed me an envelope with some writing on it.

I was concerned about using a flash to take photographs.  I asked and Duang tried to explain what I was asking about.  I ended up setting up the flash with its light modifier and firing it for the Abbott to see.  He indicated that there was no problem - it was up to me.

A Tapawkao Tattoos A Young Man - The Traditional Way

We returned to the building where we first saw a person getting a tattoo. Off to the side of a stairway going up to where Luang Pi Nunn was creating Sak Yant and beneath a statue of Ruesi, the Tapawkao were still busy tattooing people - it was going to be a long night for them.

Ruesi are hermit sages who first discovered the powers of yantric tattoos (Sak Yants).  They passed on their knowledge and secrets to Monks who continue the traditions and practices today. Ruesi are sometimes depicted wearing a tiger skin because Lord Shiva, the original Great Ruesi, wore a tiger skin.  The tiger skin is also emblematic of being a hermit.

Monk With Sak Yants

Wat Bang Phra is considered to be the prime site for Sak Yants due to the work and reputation of its previous Abbott,  Luang Phor Phen.  Luang Phor Phen is well known for his use of magic to help people and the power of his Sak Yants.  During one period of his life, Luang Phor Phen was a hermit in the deep jungle known for its wild animals and evil spirits. It is said that during that period of time, he was always accompanied and protected by a large as well as very fierce tiger.  Luang Phor Phen died in 2002.  He is often depicted as riding atop a large tiger.  If you look carefully at some of the following photographs you will see depictions  of Luang Phor Phen and the tiger.  The souvenir tee-shirt, not mine - the one Duang purchased, has Luang Phor Phen and the tiger on the front and a yantra on the back.

Men Await Their Turn To Be Tattooed by Luang Pi Nunn

Today the most famous Monk for Sak Yant tattoos is Luang Pi Nunn. a Monk at Wat Bang Phra.  My goal was to witness and photograph him as well as his work.

After photographing the tattooing at the base of the stairway, we climbed the stairs and walked into a fairly large dim room.  At one end of the room, two Monks at each corner were tattooing people.  The Monk at the left hand corner of the room was Luang Pi Nunn.



Offerings in the foreground, Luang Pi Nunn in the background

The room was filled with about 40 people - roughly 20 seated upon the floor per Monk.  Each person had purchased an offering for 199 baht.  Each offering consisted of a bunch of orchids, a pack of cigarettes, two incense sticks, and two yellow candles.  The offerings were placed together on agold colored pressed ornamental bowl used throughout Thailand for presenting offerings to Monks.  The approximately 20 men bowed before the Monk as the offerings were made and received a blessing from the Monk.  As the number of people waiting dwindled, a new group was brought into the room and the offering ritual was repeated.

The room had no air conditioning but the whirling ceiling fans kept the room comfortable - at least for me but then again I was not about to be stuck hundreds if of times by a needle.  Four large cloth posters were hung on the walls on each side of the Masters.  The posters showed many of the yantras that were possible.

Various Yantras

The atmosphere of the room was somewhat somber and reverent - what you would expect in the prescence of a deeply faith based ritual.  Some of the men did talk but when they did, it was in low and hushed voices.  The men were mostly young - Sak Yants are very popular with policemen, military men, Monks, and others with dangerous but not necessarily legal professions or occupations.  Although I had started at the back of the crowd, I was upfront and next to Luang Pi Nunn in very little time.  The people knew that I was very curious and only interested in taking photographs with no intention to cut in line to get a tattoo of my own.

Man Waiting To Be Tattooed - I Believe That He Has A "Good Heart"

I focused my attention upon Luang Pi Nunn and the men that he was tattooing.  Two young men sat in front of the raised platform upon which Luang Pi Nunn sat.  Their duty was to stretch the skin of the person to be tattooed.  In order to make proper sized and clear lines, the skin needs to be stretched the proper consistent amount and in the proper direction.

Luang Pi Nunn Orientates A Young Monk

The person to be tattooed sits on the floor with his back to Luang Pi Nunn.  Often a triangular pillow is placed on his lap to help support his torso.  The person is then orientated so that Luang Pi Nunn can read the person's aura.  Based upon the person's aura, the Monk determines what yantra and where it will be applied to the skin.

The Master Often Smokes As He Reads Auras

After he determines which yantra he will create and where, the Master immediately commences to tattoo the person.  Downstairs some Tapawkaos used stencils to mark the yantra on the skin before they started to tattoo.  Although there were some stencils in a basket behind him, I never saw Luang Pi Nunn utilize a stencil.

The Sak Yant was created with long metal rods which more closely resembled knitting needles than the needles that I expected to be used for tattoos.  The rods were about 24 inches long and approximately 1/8 inch in diameter. The tips of  the needles were split - remininsent of old style fountain ink pens.

After loading the needle with ink and with his assitants stretching the skin, the Master started piercing the skin with the needle to create the yantra pattern.  Periodically with the smoothest and most fluid motion he would recharge the needle with ink from the tiny reservoir at his side.

Recharging the Needle With Ink

After completing the tattoo, the needle was placed into a container of ink stained alochol - ready for the next tattoo.  At the front of the Master's work station. there were two sharpening stones - like the kind used to sharpen knives.  A sheet of sandpaper was also stored in the back of his station for sharpening the needles.  I observed Luang Pi Nunn for about two hours and he never sharpened a needle.

Luang Pi Nunn's Workstation - He Sits Cross Legged On the Table

When Luang Pi Nunn took a break, I was able to get some close up photos of his workstation.

Tattoo Needles(?) and the Master's Cigarette Butts

The Master's Tools

The ink used for applying Sak Yants are a secret recipe - unique to each Master.  It is believed to contain coconut oil, charcoal, snake venom and possiblely human remains (I suspect ashes).  In the above photograph the small bowl of golden fluid is palm or coconut oil that is used rather than black ink to create invisible Sak Yants.  Rolls of toilet paper are used to create tissue pads that are used to prevent smearing of the tattoo as it is being created, to help keep ink from getting on the master's hands, and to clean the tattoo when it is completed.  The man seated behind me was kept busy unrolling toilet paper and folding into compact absorbant pads.

When the tattoo is completed, the Master cleans the tattoo of excess ink and quietly recites a special chant.  He blows on the tattoo twice to energize the Sak Yant with its powers.

Luang Pi Nunn Energizes A Sak Yant That He Just Completed

After an hour observing Luang Pi Nunn, we went back down the stairs to explore more of the facility.

There were several areas where Tapawkaos were involved in tattooing people.  I had read that only Monks could energize the Sak Yants.  This was not my experience the night before Wai Khru at Wat Bang Phra.  Every Tapawkao that I observed, upon finishing a tattoo, would recite a Kataa and blow twice into the Sak Yant to energize it.  I questioned Duangchan about this and she told me that Tapawkaos are taught a great deal by Monks and have powers.  The Monks give them authority to recite Kataa and to energize the Sak Yants.

Man Receives Sak Yant On His Thigh From A Tapawkao

After three hours we left Wat Bang Phra eagerly anticipating the Wai Khru Ceremony the next morning.

Sak Yant Tattoos

Sak Yant Tattoos On Theravada Monk's Body

 Our just concluded four day trip to Nakom Pathom, approximately 50km outside of Bangkok, was the culmination of two serendipitous events.  About a month ago while surfing the Internet, I discovered an e-brochure, "Khlong Tour, Cruising the Majestic Waterways" created in 2007 by the Tourism Authority of Thailand.

 

The brochure describes several tours of the area including floating markets, farm and orchard visits, and some Buddhist sites.  We had visited the area for the first time in 2007 and for the second time last December.  The brochure highlighted some areas of interest that we had not visited.

 

Shortly after discovering the e-brochure, I learned from a contact on Facebook, that the annual Wat Bang Phra Tattoo Festival was scheduled for 15 March.

 

I have wanted to witness the Wat Bang Phra Tattoo Festival for at least three years.  I decided that this would be the year that we would attend the festival and also spend some time to visit some of the sites described in the e-brochure.

 

The Wat Bang Phra Tattoo Festival is a ritual where "magical tattoos" are re-energized by special chants from the Monks of the Wat.

 

Before writing and sharing our experiences at the festival, I would first like to give some background regarding the tattoos associated with Wat Bang Phra.

 

The "magical tattoos" are actually "sak yant" - Yantra tattooing. Sak yants have a long and mystical history dating back over 2,000 years ago.  Sak yant tattooing is an ancient tradition of Thailand, Cambodia, Lao People's Democratic Republic and parts of Myanmar (Burma).  Today the tradition is largely restricted to Thailand.

 

Yantra originated in India.  Yantra are symbols and geometric arrangements that are used in Eastern mysticism to focus on spiritual concepts and to balance the mind.  Wearing, creating, and concentrating on yantra was believed in Indian religions to provide spiritual benefits.  In India the yantras were typically created on cloth.

 

Thai Yant (Sak Yant) Flag Hung In Our Living Room

The use of Yantras printed on cloth is still popular today in Thailand.  Yantra flags are hung in homes and vehicles to bring good luck and fortune.  They are especially popular for posting in businesses to bring success.  We have two Yantra flags in our home - one in our living room and a second one hung above the entrance door to our bed room.  The cloths are blessed by the Monks of each specific Wat that distributes them. The cloths are believed by Theravada Buddhists to protect from evil spirits, provide good health and esure safety for the residents of the home where they are displayed.

 

Some Yants are small - similiar to soccer club pendants, and are hung from motor vehicle rear view mirrors to afford protection from accidents.  We do not have one but we do have a small plastic disk - a sort of medallion with yantric symbols on it.

 

Yantra Cloth Above the Door To Our Bedroom

 

However it was the Khmer culture that adapted the yantras into tattoos.  During the Khmer Empire period, the warriors were covered from head to toe with yantric tatoos incorporating ancient Sanskrit script.  It was believed that the power of the Yantric tattoos protected the warriors - arrows and knives were unable to penetrate their skin.  Ok - you might be wondering why if the warriors were invincible, why are we all not talking Khmer today.  Although the Sak Yant tattoos are very powerful, there are rules that the bearers must follow to maintain the powers and the tattoos have to be re-energized periodically.  Apparently the Khmer warriors did not follow the rules faithfully or keep their tattoos energized.

 

 

Today, Yantra designs for tattoos contain Animist, Hindu and Buddhist symbols.  It is yet another example of the Thai people incorporating rather than getting rid of beliefs and practices of previous religious systems into their current system.

Sak Yants are created using the "mae sak", originally a bamboo needle, but today it is a long metal pointed rod.  A trained Monk or a lay Sak Yant master uses the slotted metal pointed rod to apply special ink beneath the skin to create the selected design. The rod more closely resembles a knitting needle than any needle that I assumed would be used to create a tattoo.  After he has finished tattooing the person, the Monk or the ajan recites a prayer and blows twice onto the new tattoo to energize it.

I do not have any tattoos or have I ever considered getting tattooed,  however I know that if I were to get a tattoo it would not be "Mom", an anchor, or even a ship across my chest.  No, if I were to ever get a tattoo, it would have to be special - a tattoo that connected me with the far distant past, a unique tribal connection, a religious artifact created by traditional instruments used by a spiritual person - something like a sak yant.

Unexpected Pleasure, Beauty Is Where You Find It

Phra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol, Roi-Et Province

Yesterday I wrote that our trip to Roi-Et ...  "As is the case for all wonderful trips, our expectations, as well as anticipations were exceeded.  We got to meet face to face for the first time my Facebook friend.  The first night we witnessed a wonderful presentation of the Vessantara Jataka by local university students.  We met a very nice local couple who invited us to spend Sunday night at their home."
Our new friends in Roi-Et wanted to take us Sunday morning to a special place about 80 km from their home.  It turned out that this special place was a very special place - an unexpected pleasure for Duang and me.  Our friends brought us to view and experience Pra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol, "The Great, Victorious and Auspicious Pagoda" - also known as Pra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkhon .

In Thailand, chedi is the same as a stupa.  Chedis and stupas are Buddhist structures containing Buddhist relics - often the ashes of Buddhist Monks.  Phra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol is built to house some very special Buddhist relics.  Besides the relics of the Monk most responsible for its construction, Luang Phu Sri Vi Ro, and other Monks, Pra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol contains relics from Buddha that arrived from Sri Lanka on May 3, 1997.

The decision to build Pra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol and to create a sacred place for the relics was made at a meeting of the clergy on 25th of November 1985.

That was almost thirty years ago.  I do not know if the chedi is still under construction or if it undergoing extensive renovation.  No matter the case, we found the facility to be incomplete.  I estimate that the facility is about 60 percent complete.  However the 60% completion state is pretty much universal.  No matter where you go in the facility you have a clear indication from the construction or restoration to date what that area will look like when it is completed.

Ground Level Portico

Portico Partially Completed

Pra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol is rife with symbolism.  The symbolism starts with the dimensions of the complex.  The facility is located in Roi-Et Province ("101 Province").  Pra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol is situated upon 101 rai of land - 40 acres.  The chedi is 101 meters wide by 101 meters long and 101 meters tall.

Main Pagoda Flanked By Two Of the Eight Smaller Pagodas

The chedi is surrounded by eight smaller pagodas.  Pagodas?  Pagodas are chedis that can be entered and may have a secular purpose.  The large chedi is also a pagoda since it can be entered.

Naga Exiting the Mouth of A Dragon

The main pagoda has five floors each having a different purpose and motif.

The first floor is for meetings and conferences.

First Floor - Shrine to Luang PhuSri Maha Vi Ro

The beams and columns of the first floor are covered with intricate designs with a pink and gold color palette.  It is very beautiful and, in my opinion, rivals the opulence of Versailles.  Several paintings adorn the perimeter wall of the first floor with many to be added to complete the decor.

First Floor Painting

Another First Floor Painting

First Floor Staircase Decoration

Statue Adorning First Floor Staircase

The second floor of the pagoda is meant for clergy meetings and has a blue along with gold color palette.

Second Floor Ceiling

Second Floor Shrine

Second Floor Shrine

As we walked about the pagoda in awe of the beauty as well as the complexity of the decor, we came upon a section where a man was working on adding decorations to a wall panel.  We learned that it took him three days to complete each wall panel.

Worker Adding Decorations To Wall Panel

The third floor of the pagoda is an ubosot - ordination hall, the holiest prayer room.  Ordination of Monks takes place in the ubosot which is often referred to by laypeople as "bot".  The ubosot of this pagoda is red and gold.

 

 

Ceiling Panel of the ubosot - Third Floor

 



Ceiling Detail Of Ubosot

Ornate Columns Descending From Ornate Ceiling

Ubosot Shrine



Part of Ubosot Shrine - "Reclining Buddha"

Ubosot Ceiling

The fourth floor has access to an outside viewing deck which provides grand panoramas of the surrounding countryside.  The wall of the fourth floor, to me, seemed to be a hall of fame for Monks.  There were many statues set pedestals along the perimeter wall.  Each statue had a name of a different deceased Monk.

Fourth Floor of the Pagoda

The fifth floor is supposed to be a museum related to Pra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol.  The museum must be also under renovation because other than the walls containing relics from many Monks, there were no articles on display.  However the fifth floor is the base of a marvelous spiral stairway containing 119 steps leading up to the sixth floor where the Buddha relics are stored.



Spiral Stairway Connecting 5th Floor to 6th Floor

Looking Down At the 4th Floor From the 5th Floor

Relics from Buddha - 6th Floor

The access to the sixth floor, where the relics of Buddha from Sri Lanka are kept, is by climbing a spiral staircase from the 5th floor.  There is elevator access between all the other floors - when the elevator is not being renovated.  However much like reaching enlightenment or Heaven, the way to the 6th floor requires some effort - climbing 119 steps - ever decreasing width threads as you get closer and closer to your goal - a challenge for me with size 11 feet.  Towards the top of the staircase I was climbing with my sock covered feet just about parallel to the stair threads after having jabbed my toes several times earlier.  Descending the steps is much easier with the stair threads getting wider and wider with each step down.

Ceiling of the 6th Floor

The exterior of the pagoda outside of the 6th floor is a tiered King's umbrella (Sa Vhet Tha Chut) fabricated from 60 kilograms of gold.

Upon arriving at the 6th floor, I was sweating profusely.  The pagoda is not air conditioned and the outside temperature was around 36C (97F).  Although the exterior of the pagoda is white, the natural chimney effect the hot air along with the increased humidity caused by respiration of its visitors rising up through the building to the 6th floor - not to mention the physical exertion of climbing up 101 meters (331 feet) through the building.  Fortunately, there were a couple of large fans circulating the air at the sixth floor.  After Duang had completed her worship, we commenced our journey down through the building.

Our visit to Pra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol was a quite unexpected pleasure.  I had never heard or read of the place.  Our new friends had definitely made a memorable experience for us by bring us to this special place.

Just as I have found many of the world's wonders overwelming upon first encountering them. I found that one visit to Pra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol to be inadequate to fully appreciate its magnitude and beauty.

It was only starting with my second visit to Grand Canyon National Park that I began to comprehend its magnitude and the extent of its beauty.  After six visits to Yellowstone National Park, I still discover more of its beauty and grandeur with each visit.

The same is true with Pra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol.  One visit is definitely not sufficient.  I was told that it will take five years to finish it.  With 5 years of construction or renovation to come, the place will be continually evolving  and changing - states to be celebrated, cherished, and ...photographed.

Our journey to Roi-Et started with a series of expectations and anticipations.  Just as with life, we encountered many opportunities to realize our expectations but it was the changes to our original plan that provided the greatest happiness and the realization of beauty that we did not know existed along our planned route.

I look forward to returning to Pra Maha Chedi Chai Mongkol to better understand, and appreciate it.

Isaan Area Back Roads

Tobacco Drying In Isaan

From a Facebook friend, we learned of the Bun Pha Wet Festival in Roi-Et.  After seeing photos from my friend's previous visit to the festival seven years ago, I decided that it would be a pleasant trip for us to attend this year's festival.

Roi-Et is a small, approximately 36,000 people. agricultural centered town three hours from our home.

We went to the festival expecting to see people dressed in traditional clothing and performing traditional Lao as well as Thai dances.  We knew that there would be plenty of small booths, stalls, and motorcycle sidecars selling soft drinks and all kinds of food.  We anticipated that we would be able to witness merit making and rituals involving Theravada Buddhist Monks.

As is the case for all wonderful trips, our expectations, as well as anticipations were exceeded.  We got to meet face to face for the first time my Facebook friend.  The first night we witnessed a wonderful presentation of the Vessantara Jataka by local university students.  We met a very nice local couple who invited us to spend Sunday night at their home.

Sunday morning while following our new friends out to their home in the countryside along some back roads, I saw many homes that had wood drying racks set up in their front yards.  The drying racks were heavily laden with strings of relatively small pale leaves.  I asked Duang what it was and she told me it was the same flowers that you cut and make into cigarette to smoke.  OK - I then knew that it was tobacco.  Coming from Connecticut, I am familiar somewhat with tobacco cultivation - Connecticut River Valley tobacco for cigar wrappers - the background for the film "Parrish"

As a child, I remember staring out the car window as large wood tobacco drying barns  and large swathes of the countryside, draped in white cotton, whizzed by.  Connecticut tobacco was grown under artificial shade to soften the sunlight and increase the humidity to soften and make a better tasting tobacco leaf.  I remember that the leaves were rather large, but then again I also remember the glacial rocks that I played upon back then being much larger than they are today.

The leaves that I saw along the back roads of Isaan were about 6 inches (16 cm) in diameter and the plants in the dry dusty fields were about 2-1/2 feet high (76 cm).

Tobacco Drying In The Front Yard

On our way back to our home, I stopped alongside of a back road across from a home that had several racks of tobacco drying under the hot Isaan sun.  Our typical high temperatures each day are now in the range of 36-40C (97-104F) and with the absence of the monsoonal air flows, our humidity is still low.  Several times when I rinsed my hands on this trip, I could actually see the water evaporating off of my skin in the sunlight.

 

 

While Duang waited in our truck, I crossed the road and busied myself taking photographs of the tobacco racks.  I was not there very long when I heard a man's voice coming from further back of the property.  I looked and saw a shirtless middle aged farmer.  He was saying something about a foreigner taking photographs.  I yelled out to him in Thai that yes the foreigner loves to take photographs. Quickly he was standing by my side.  I showed him some of the photographs that I had just taken.  He liked them and he started to point out some shots for me to take.  After a few more shots, he grabbed my arm - sort of like a Boy Scout assisting an old lady to cross the street, only in this circumstance he was leading me deeper onto his property towards his drying sheds.

 

Tobacco Drying Under Cover In Drying Shed



This type of behavior is not uncommon here in southeast Asia.  Quite often the local people encourage as well as nourish my enthusiasm to document their culture and way of life, by sharing more personal or private aspects of their world with me.  Even when the "special" shot that they point out is not necessarily a shot that I want, I take the shot and share it with them - a small gesture of gratitude for their kindness.

Tobacco Hanging From Roof Soffit

The farmer and I returned to the side of the road where I called out to Duang to join us.  There was too much conversation and undoubtedly way too much information going on in Lao for me to understand.  I needed my interpreter!

Isaan Tobacco Farmer In Front Of Small Market

Duang joined us and we all walked over to where several people were eating and drinking.  The people were family members of  the farmer.  Quickly Duang was engaged in full conversation with the people interrupted only by my asking questions about what I was photographing or about the tobacco farming process.

Tobacco Seedlings Ready To Be Planted

The family rotates their tobacco crop with rice.  The paddies where they had harvested the tobacco that was drying all over their property will be planted with rice in May or June dependent upon the arrival of the monsoon rains.

The tobacco takes 10 days to properly dry.  Representatives of large companies will come and buy the tobacco crop.  The farmers are paid 150 Baht a kilogram ($2.27 USD a pound) for the dried tobacco.  By comparison, in 1999 Connecticut River Valley tobacco farmers were paid $45-50 a pound for their crop.

The family buys tobacco seedlings from commercial growers for planting their crops.

Our unplanned and unexpected visit with the farming family lasted thirty minutes - time well spent.

Time travels fast when you take your time to experience what there is along the back roads of Isaan or anywhere that you find yourself.

Taking the time to stop and smell the roses or in this case, the tobacco. has its own rewards.  Life is better when it is fully experienced by stepping out of our comfort zone to learn more of our world.

"Allen's World" is always offering opportunities to experience and learn for those willing to take the time - for those willing to step out of their comfort zone.  The world that you live in also offers opportunities to discover, experience, and to celebrate the diversity of life - it only requires that you choose to travel along the back roads of your world - wherever it may be.