Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Yellowstone Park in Spring

Last week I spent four days in Yellowstone National Park photographing all creatures great and small. Some creatures were not so great and many were definitely not small.



I saw bald eagles, moose, elk, mountain sheep, deer, grizzly bears, black bears, bison, pronged horn antelope, sand hill cranes, coyote, dogs, ravens, many song birds and people.


Having spent most of the past five years overseas I realized that I was looking at America with a different set of eyes. I am amazed at how large a country America is - relatively and figuratively. It is very difficult to find a small soft drink to buy. The small size that is commonly available now as well as its associated price is more than I need or want. Bottled water was available for $1.79 a bottle. I filled my empty juice bottle from breakfast with water from the drinking fountains at visitor centers and bathrooms. I can't imagine the $1.79 bottled water being better than the free water that I enjoyed. It is not that I am cheap. Maybe I am, but in Thailand we have to buy bottled water for drinking and it costs all of $0.35 for approximately 5 gallons!


Portions of food served at restaurants are very large and you are faced with the dilemma at each meal of wasting food or eating too much. My observations have been that most people choose to eat too much - way too much. It was rather shocking to see so many morbidly obese people - especially women waddling around Yellowstone. I have never seen so many canes and walkers being used in a public place as I observed in the park.


The populations in South East Asia are much younger than in the United States. The aging population will present serious social and economic challenges for the United States in the near future. In addition to the increased need for services and care for the elderly people, there will be fewer working people to contribute taxes to fund the programs. In m travels on this trip, the effects of the economic crisis was readily apparent. I am shocked at the number of stores and companies that have shutdown. It is all rather depressing - I see it on the faces of the people and feel it myself. There is a lack of optimism that pervades American society at this time.


However Yellowstone was great - as usual. This was my seventh trip to the park and it was just a fascinating as my first trip 33 years ago. The fires of 10 years ago have dramatically altered the scenery in many areas of the park. Twenty years ago I hiked in the back country along Grebe and Ice Lakes. At the time I felt that I was hiking through a jungle. The tall and crowded mature lodge pole pine forest has been burned away and replaced by a more open forest of small pine trees. The sight of these changes at first is disturbing for we always seem to want to maintain the status quo of our lives and surroundings however upon reflection one realizes that these changes are a natural occurrence in the life cycle of the area. The changes provide opportunities for species to adapt and thrive. The species that can take advantage of these opportunities decline. Yellowstone Park is a large theater where the ebbs and flows of life and death are played out each day.


The Park was a bright green due to the daily rains. The precipitation was sporadic and localised. I can honestly say that it did not really affect my visit. Understanding that the rains were responsible for the reemergence of the plants and grasses that the bison, bears, elk, sheep, and deer were feasting upon made dealing with the occasional inconvenience much easier. The lack of brilliant sun light and higher temperatures actually made observing animals easier. One day was particularly cool, wet, and heavily overcast - the best day I had for watching animals.




For some reason on this trip the thermal features as well as thermal activities of the park impressed me the most. It was very as well as readily apparent that the Yellowstone Basin sits atop an active volcanic region. The geysers, mud pots, and hot water springs all give testament to the heat and pressures beneath the surface of the park.


The Park was not very crowded and the anticipated traffic jams due to road construction or tourists never materialized. There were nightly road closings from Norris to Madison but they started at 10:00 P.M. The road reopened at 8:00 A. M. which could have affected early morning efforts to get from West Yellowstone to the Lamar Valley but I slept so well that I wasn't on the road until 8:00 A. M. anyhow. I was fortunate to see Grizzly bears at the beginning of my trip so I felt no need to get to the Lamar Valley for sunrise. It would have been great to see a wolf and even greater to be able to photograph one but most likely an unrealistic expectation. There were many reports of wolf activity from the friendly and dedicated wolf watchers that frequent the Park. However in listening to their expert accounts it was readily apparent how serendipitous a photographic encounter would be - so remote a probability that I could not rationalize or justify getting up at 3:00 or 4:00 A.M. to get to the Valley in the early morning. My 300 mm lens was also not powerful enough to capture a good image of wolf at the typical spotting distances. I slept later, relaxed, and more thoroughly enjoyed each day in the Park admiring the animals and scenery.

I failed in my first tests of cultural re-adaptation in America. I came upon two courting black bears at Petrified Tree in the park. It was not difficult to locate them or to come upon them. Another tourist at a different location where I was photographing baby coyotes told me about it and when I arrived there were two Rangers attempting to control the jam of cars as well as people. I pulled over off of the road and walked down to where one of the Rangers was located.

The Park Ranger was not allowing people pasted the point where he had stationed himself. The other Ranger was not allowing people past the point where she had positioned herself further down the hill. The Rangers wanted to keep the area directly in front of the bears open over concerns for the safety of the people. A female in estrus and a male courting her are an emotional unstable pair of bears.

In addition to controlling the spectators, the Rangers were attempting to keep traffic moving past the site. Besides trying to eliminate emotional flare ups of drivers due to congestion, cars stopped in front of the bear's location could provoke an attack by the bears.

The Rangers politely informed everyone not to go past their position for their personal safety. Our location was demarcated by a small pine tree. I was amazed at the lack of respect and attention paid to the Park Rangers by the motorists. Drivers ignored and openly defied the Ranger's requests as well as demands that they keep moving. Since the Park Rangers were not carrying guns, I suggested that he use the Bear Spray on some drivers to get them to move and to make an example of those who defy authority. The Ranger indicated that he would like to use the spray but could not. Instead he left the tree to go down the hill to the traffic jam to give the offending driver a little more personal attention to get them to move along.

Additional people were joining our group after having parked their cars and walking down the hill to our position. One group of people lead by a plaid shirted wiry elderly man with a baseball cap that honored some naval vessel sauntered past our location towards the bears. I politely called out in a non threatening manner "Excuse me sir. Excuse me sir. The Ranger said that he did not want people going past this point"

He stopped and looked at me and yelled "Who are you? You are not the Police! You shouldn't be telling people what to do!" I shocked myself and calmly replied without hesitation "Fine. Go ahead and get attacked by a bear. I will take a picture and make some money!"

I did not feel threatened by him since his voice and demeanor were more like a small child whining and complaining to their parent then an adult preparing for a physical confrontation. However I was somewhat taken aback by his anger. I suppose that he was upset that in his mind I had attempted to take away some of his perceived freedom to do what he wanted, when he wanted and how he wanted. One of the tourists, I believe her to be English, next to me remarked to me in a supportive tone that I was only trying to help him and that I was concerned for his and his party's safety. I replied that I was not necessarily concerned about their safety but I was concerned that if they were attacked the Rangers would make everyone leave and I wanted to take more pictures of the bears. She thought that I was joking and she laughed.

As the man left he waved good by to me - sort of. I thought it to be all rather amusing. In Thailand people watch out for each other especially in matters that involve figures of authority. As Duang would remind me "America not same as Thailand!"

Having not had the opportunity to photograph a bear attack on a human, my secret desire was to be able to photograph a grizzly bear or even a black bear carrying off or devouring someone's precious FiFi or Fido. I was amazed at the number of people traveling with their dogs. Most of the dogs were lap dogs. It did not seem proper to me to see domesticated canines in amongst the natural beauty and wilderness of Yellowstone National Park. Many of the dogs appeared to be substitutes for children which made the sight of them and their owners even more revolting to me.

I once read about some people who were into low impact camping and were concerned about the color of tents used in the wilderness. They objected to the use of unnatural colors corrupting the natural beauty of the wilderness. I guess that I have gone beyond them. Somehow I believe that it is sacrilegious to contaminate the park with barks, yips, and feces of domesticated dogs - city dogs worst of all!

I left Yellowstone with 1,100 new photographs to be reviewed, edited, and cataloged. I have started the process and with all the wet and cool weather here in Connecticut at my parent's home, I have made excellent progress in the tasks.

Once I return home to Udonthani in early July, I will consolidate my favorites and create a new gallery on my photography website, www.hale-worldphotography.com


Monday, June 15, 2009

Back In The USA




I have been back in the USA for a week now.

I finished my second full day at Yellowstone National Park.

Although it rained almost all day, it was a productive day. These are some shots of a young grizzly bear on Dunraven Pass in the rain. Haven't had time to edit all the photos or to write a blog on the activities of this trip.

I will get around to it soon.

Sunday, May 31, 2009

Fawn Leb Dance

In addition to being a significant religious attraction, Wat Phra Doi Suthep outside of Chiang Mai has cultural offerings.

On the day of our visit, two university students were performing classical Thai dances in the courtyard that surrounded the various buildings of the Wat complex. There was also an orchestra of 7 younger students of approximately high school age playing traditional Thai instruments to accompany the dancers.

Of the various dances performed, my favorites were the "Tee Dance" or "Umbrella Dance" which we had previously seen performed at the Khantoke Dinner and Show and the "Fawn Leb" Dance.




For the "Fawn Leb", a Northern Thailand dance style, the dancers wear 6 inch long brass fingernails on their fingers to accentuate the movements of their hands. The intent of the "Fawn Leb" dance is to reflect the beauty, calm, and peacefulness of the Northern Thai (Lanna) people. The long fingernails extend the supple fingers of each dancing thus emphasizing the graceful movements or both their arms and hands.


The dancers wore their hair in the chignon style accentuated with a yellow floral tiara along with a chain of jasmine flowers. Their silk costumes were traditional, simple and elegant - all of which complimented the grace, beauty, and elegance of the performance.



The orchestra wore plain and simple farmer style clothing - heavy cotton yellow tunics with a black wrap around cotton belt and loose cotton green trousers. They played various string, wind, and percussion instrument to accompany the dancers.

It was all very beautiful, emotionally uplifting and memorable.

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Yao Hill Tribe People

The Yao people are found in Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, and China. They are believed to have originated in China and migrated south. Migrations were centered around the opium trade in the 1800's and 1900's as well as the Mien peoples support of the CIA's secret war in Laos.

Today after the heavy suppression of the opium trade by Thai authorities in the late 20th century, the Yao cultivate rice, corn, cabbages, other vegetables and fruit.

Today there are approximately 55,000 Yao living in Thailand.

The Yao people are well known for being the businessmen of the Hill Tribe peoples. They are peaceful and skillful at resolving conflicts. These skills have assisted them greatly in assimilating into Thailand.

Yao women are well known for their needlepoint and embroidery skills. They install the cross stitching from the backside of the cloth as opposed to the customary front side by Westerners. Sales of their handicrafts supplements family income greatly.




Many older Yao women shave their eyebrows as it is the traditional practice. It is also traditional that Yao women shave their bodies but I am unable to confirm if the practice continues - and I am not interested in confirming either.

Yao women wear very distinctive clothing. They wear a large black turban on their head which is sometimes adorned with silver decorations. Yao men are skilled silversmiths so it is not surprising that silver ornaments would be worn.


The women wear a long dark blue or black jacket that is trimmed with thick deeply red boa on the lapels. They wear loose pants that often have intricate needlepoint designs on them.



These women are very skillful embroiders and adept at needlepoint. Their village was filled with booths selling Yao handicrafts.

The textile art was very pretty and well crafted. It was difficult to resist buying all that you wanted. I actually ran out of cash and was forced to stop. There were not any ATM machines in the village and I suggested that they make arrangements for some to be installed.

I told them that I did not understand the origins for the name of "Yao" people but I suspected that it may possibly be attributable to all the falang (foreigners) that visit, buy their beautiful art work, look in their wallet and exclaim "Yao! - I've spent all my money!"

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Morning With The Monks

The weather has changed and I guess that we are now officially in the rainy season.

Last Friday we spent a very rainy day in Bangkok dealing with American bureaucracy - not that American bureaucracy is any worse than any other but when it involves your own country it is much more difficult to tolerate if not to accept.

On our bus trips between Udonthani and Bangkok, the seasonal weather change was most apparent the further south that we were. The rains have flooded many of the rice paddies and it is amazing what a difference a little water makes. The flooded fields that a month ago were desolate and barren are now bursting with bright green rice shoots. Farmers were busy in the fields preparing the land for planting. Earlier this month, on May 11th, Thailand celebrated "Royal Ploughing Day". The festivities which were telecast over national television, involve royal officials plowing the earth outside of the Grand Palace in Bangkok using a team of oxen. The ceremony in conjunction with religious observations is an offering for a good harvest and is an indicator if it will be a good harvest. After the oxen have finished plowing they are offered plates of grass, corn, rice, beans, sesame, liquor, and water. The Royal Soothsayer observes what the oxen choose to eat and makes his prediction for this year's crops.

This year the oxen ate corn and grass. The Royal Soothsayer has predicted a good year with abundant rains and healthy crops. It is too early to determine the accuracy of the crop prediction, but we have been getting plenty of rain - so far.


Today we went into Udonthani to celebrate Duang's brother's new home. He has bought a home on the street next to Wat Matchimiwat where many of the Luuk Thung performers live. He had rented a place there but his landlord needed money, so she sold him a place for 40,000 baht ($1,143 USD).


We arrived early at his home and work was still going on getting it prepared. His place is directly across the street from the Wat so I grabbed one of my cameras as well as the video camera and walked over to the Wat. There always seems to be something going on at a Wat in Thailand. Even when there is nothing exciting going on at a Wat, they are refuges from the din and chaos of the city or village life. Wats always have many trees and plants on their grounds. The trees and flowers on the Wat's grounds provide a very peaceful as well as tranquil respite from the world - including dealing with bureaucracy! This morning was no exception. The restful noises of the chirping birds was joined by the rhythmic sweeping of coarse brooms on the concrete and tile paving. The Monks of the Wat were busy cleaning the grounds. There were 30 Monks busily sweeping up dirt, debris and leaves. The Monks were mostly young boys and young men. Two older Monks were obviously in charge but they also swept along with the boys.



The Monks toiled mostly in silence. Being young boys, despite being Monks, the workers were quite amused and giddy about being photographed. Their smiling and curiosity did not interfere with their duties. Fortunately they were able to complete the cleanup prior to the onset of today's rains. I ended up finding shelter beneath an exterior stairwell of one of the Wat's buildings. Our rains are not day long events. Although it may rain most days, the actual duration for the rain is around 2 hours. Today the rain although heavy at times was over in twenty minutes.


When the rain had completely stopped, a small procession entered the Wat grounds and circled the assembly hall three times. A young man dressed in white lead the procession. He was going to be ordained as a Monk today. His family and friends were with him to witness this major milestone in a Thai man's life.

I joined the witnesses and spent the entire ceremony photographing and filming the ritual. Although I had witnessed the ordination ritual several times, each time that I do I understand more and develop a greater appreciation for the tradition and devotion associated with the ceremony. I am also amazed at how free and open the Thai people are towards "outsiders". Photographing and filming of Buddhist ceremonies is not an issue. Interjecting yourself into a family's celebration is not resisted or resented. In fact at the end of the ceremony, a representative of the family invited me to join them for dinner. As best as I could I thanked them and explained to them that I was having dinner with my brother-in-law across the street as part of his house warming celebration
I returned to my brother-in-law's home and observed the preparations for the arrival of the Monks. Around 10:45 A. M. five Monks arrived from the Wat. The Monks sat atop the elevated concrete structures that had been built in the front part of the house. Sahts were placed on the tile floor for everyone else to sit. Plastic chairs were also placed outside on the sidewalk for guests to sit. There was a ceremony lead by a Brahman with the Monks supplementing the ritual. After the ceremony, the Monks were given offerings of food. There was a great quantity and variety of food given to the Monks. When they completed eating their meal, the leftover food was taken outside of the house and the neighbors, and other guests ate it as part of their meal.

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

The Dancing Lao Loum Farmer - Video

Yesterday, I learned how to post a video to this blog. It was actually not difficult at all to do.

I had mentioned about perhaps posting a video of a new friend dancing at the Kham Chanot concert. Today I am posting that video.

He was a local farmer that absolutely enjoyed himself as well as the Lao Kao (moonshine whiskey which is very popular in Isaan) He took a liking to me and ensured that no but he got took close to me while I was filming. He even got into a little directing - motioning me to come closer to the stage to get a closer view of the Go-Go girl that he was most interested in. I showed him how I could zoom in for closer shots without having to move. When I showed him in the camera monitor screen how I could zoom in for just that special shot that he wanted, he got all excited and started clapping me on the shoulder in appreciation. I then showed him how that wasn't very good in that it shook the camera and ruined the scene. I did not have to show him again.

This clip shows a little of the spirit and energy which is so often observable here in Isaan. The people really enjoy their music and dance. They while being modest are typically uninhibited at these events. The energy and enthusiasm along with the heavy drinking often leads to flare ups.

The concert on Saturday was no exception - there were some fist fights towards the end of the concert. As happens at every event that I have attended the flare ups are directly in front of the stage and involve teenagers. Unlike some concerts, Lady Boys (Kathoeys) were not involved. There were plenty of police around so matters were contained and were brief. No problem - everyone enjoyed themselves. Perhaps they did not enjoy themselves as much as the "Dancing Lao Loum Farmer" but not many people can.

Isaan Rocket Launch Video

This is a video clip of one of the rocket launches that we witnessed on 10 April 2009 at Tahsang Village in the Isaan Region of Thailand.


I had previously written about the events in my blog entitled "Friday 10 April - Isaan Rocket Program" posted on 4/16/9. Another related blog entry to this tradition is "31 August 2008 - Prapheni Bun Bang Fei" posted on 1/9/9


Photographs of the event can be viewed at //http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/gallery/7968595_fFoZv/1/517645776_Lrqf2