Photography In Bhutan - What To Bring

28mm ISO 800 f2.8 1/6400 sec

Often when browsing websites related to photography or travel, I will read questions along the line of "I am going to ... what lens should I bring?" or "I am going to ... should I bring my ...?"

My initial reaction typically is "It depends ...".

It depends upon the types of photographs that you typically take or want to take on this trip.

It depends upon the style of photographs that you typically take or the style of photographs that you want to try on your trip.

It depends upon, to a certain extent, the equipment that you already own.

It depends upon how much you can carry or how much you are willing to carry.

It depends upon your travel arrangements and restrictions.

ISO 800 28mm f4.5 1/1600 sec

In April of this year, my wife and I toured across Bhutan for 15 days.  It was a fabulous journey which I can best summarize as " I was so impressed with the explosion of color, energy, and spirituality everywhere in Bhutan. Definitely a destination for photographers or connoisseurs of the exotic."

The following is a list of the gear that I brought, some explanation of why I brought it, and a revised list of what I will be bringing for our return trip in Spring 2018.

ITEM	QUANTITY	PACKED
Tripod	1	Suitcase	X
Ball Head	1	Suitcase	X
Speedlight	2	Camera Bag 1	X
DSLR Camera - Full Frame	1	Camera Bag 2	X
28-70mm F/2.8 Lens & Hood	1	Camera Bag 2	X
80-200mm F/2.8 Lens & Hood	1	Camera Bag 1	X
85mm F/1.8 Lens & Hood	1	Camera Bag 1	X
50mm F/1.8 Lens & Hood	1	Camera Bag 1	X
Batteries for DSLR – 1 in camera, 3 loose	4	Camera Bag 2	X
AAA Alkaline Batteries for headlight	3	Suitcase	X
DSLR Remote Release Cable	1	Camera Bag 2	X
Flash Cord	1	Camera Bag 2	X
CF Cards – 640GB, 1 in camera, 4 loose	5	Camera Bag 2	X
SD Cards – 928 GB, 1 in camera, 7 loose	8	Camera Bag 2	X
Small Capacity CF Cards – 112 GB, 10 loose	10	Camera Bag 1	X
Radio Remote Triggers	3	Camera Bag 2	X
Flashbender  Lg Light Modifier	1	Camera Bag 2	X
DSLR Camera Battery Charger	1	Camera Bag 2	X
Headband Flashlight	1	Camera Bag 1	X
AA Rechargeable Battery Sets – 2 in flashes, 2 separate, 4 batteries to a set	4	Camera Bag 1	X
AAA/AA Battery Charger	1	Suitcase	X
Filter Pouch/Assort Filters - CPL, ND	1	Camera Bag 1	X
Lens Cleaning Kit	1	Suitcase	X
Shoot Thru Umbrella	1	Suitcase	X
Journal Book	1	Travel Vest	X
GPS Device	1	Travel Vest	X
Battery Tester	1	Camera Bag 1	X
Monopod w/cold shoe umbrella adapter	1	Suitcase	X
40” 5 in 1 Reflector	1	Suitcase	X
Power Strip – 220 volt, 4 outlets	1	Suitcase	X
Power Plug Adapters	1	Suitcase	X

Camera Bag 1 Weight – 4.8 Kg

Camera Bag 2 Weight – 4.9 Kg

You will note that there were two camera bags - carry on bags.  Carry on bags for our economy class air tickets were limited to 5 Kg. for our flights.  Due to the weight restrictions, I split up my gear into two bags - one for me, and one for my wife.  To be honest, our carry-on bags were not measured or weighed.  However, I prefer to follow the rules ahead of time rather than risk "complications" or "issues" while traveling.  I try to eliminate all the stress factors, that I have control over, for traveling.

I typically take "environmental portraits" - photographs of people looking the way they do, doing what they do where they live and work at a particular moment in time.

I purchased a new DSLR full frame camera because my original full frame DSLR camera is several years old and has over 120,000 shutter activations.  I was concerned that during a trip of this lifetime in Bhutan, my trusty old DSLR might fail.  As disruptive as such a failure would be in the USA or Europe, such a failure in Bhutan would have been disastrous.  I purchased the new camera a couple of months prior to departing for Bhutan.  Prior to going to Bhutan, I went on a "shakedown" trip to Chiang Mai in order to familiarize myself and become comfortable with the camera in a real traveling environment. It is paramount to be familiar and comfortable with the equipment that you bring on any trip let alone one that is expected to be a "trip of a lifetime"

I often use fill light from off the camera flash to enhance my photographs - I prefer dark backgrounds so the use of the flash is required to provide a dark background and provide details in the foreground.  With that in mind, I brought two speedlights, a shoot through umbrella, and three radio remote triggers.

ISO 1600 70mm f4 1/30 sec

As it turned out for this journey across Bhutan, the speedlights, and radio remote triggers were not needed or appropriate.  There were many locations where fill flash would have been nice.  However the locations or situations were not conducive to the use of artificial light.  Photographs of people in darkened rooms, people worshiping, people in private moments for this culture are best photographed with available light - using higher ISO settings and/or faster lens.  

 

ISO 1600 70mm f2.8 1/250 sec

 

ISO 800 85mm f1.8 1/500 sec

 There were many opportunities when I made use of or should have made use of my f1.8 lens.

ISO 800 85mm f1.8 1/125 sec

I had brought along a 40 inch 5in1 reflector.  It turned out that it was very useful.  Fortunately all the guides on our tour had training in photography.  Many were accomplished photographers. It was great to have an assistant at your side for the entire tour.  Besides carrying your camera bag, they set up tripods, held lenses, and even helped in changing lens.  At one location, a dark prayer room filled with elderly people worshiping amongst large prayer wheels, my guide for the day took the initiative and took out the reflector to cast fill light expertly into the shadows of the room.  He performed the service for the entire time that we were in the room shooting - roughly 30 minutes.

 

ISO800 85mm f1.8 1/100 white reflector

ISO 800 85mm f1.8 1/40 sec white reflector

Based upon the experience of this trip, I will not be bringing any speedlights, radio remote triggers, shoot through umbrella or Flashbender  Lg Light Modifier when I return to Bhutan next Spring.  I will bring the 40 inch reflector once again.

ISO 400 28mm f2.8 1/25 sec

Based upon the experience of this trip, I will be bringing an additional lens next Spring.  In addition to the dark interior locations, I found many situations where a 28mm lens was not wide enough for the shot that I wanted to take.  Several times my back was up against a wall or flat on a floor and I still could not frame the shot the way that I wanted to.  With this in mind I will take a 20mm f1.8 lens for the return trip.

ISO 64 145mm f7.1 1/30 sec tripod

A highlight of this tour was an early morning hike up to Taktshang Goemba (The Tiger's Nest).  It was in anticipation of this early morning hike that I had decided to bring my 80-200mm f2.8 lens as well as my tripod along with associated ball-head.  My intention to shoot low ISO in early morning with a higher aperture dictated the use of a tripod for the requisite long shutter speed for a proper exposure.  I had figured that with the high MP sensor of my DSLR, 200mm with cropping would provide the close-up detail that I wanted for the Tiger's Nest.  This meant that I would not have to bring a 300mm lens thus saving bulk and weight.

Typically my go-to lens in my work is the 28-70mm f2.8 lens.  Analysis of my Bhutan photographs confirmed the versatility of this lens.  The breakdown for lens usage on this trip was as follows:

                               28-70mm f2.8 ............... 79%
                               80-200mm f2.8............... 16%
                               85mm f1.8.......................   5%
                               50mm f1.8.......................   0%

I learned from my experience that the 50mm f1.8 lens was not a necessity for me.  Although the lens was faster than my go-to lens, the excellent performance of the new DSLR at higher ISO sensitivities negated the need for the 50mm lens for my photography needs.  The 50mm lens also not wide enough for many of the shots that I took.  I found that many of my low light photographs were in the range of 28-42mm focal length.

For this trip, I planned on using long exposures to eliminate people from the photograph.  Anything that spends less time in your composition than the length of the exposure will not appear in the resulting photograph.  I also planned on taking some long exposures of flowing water to produce smooth silky water flows of rivers and waterfalls.  With those goals and objectives in mind, I brought along some Neutral Density, ND, filters to screw on the lens to reduce the amount of light entering the camera.  This requires larger apertures and/or exposure times for a "proper exposure"

ISO 31 28mm f11 75 sec tripod ND1000 filter

Those were my plans.  In reality I did not try to eliminate crowds by using long exposures ... for two reasons.

The first reason is that in order to eliminate people from your photograph, their "exposure" (time that they are in the framing of your photograph has to be less than the time of your photograph's exposure i.e. someone running across the framing of your 15 sec exposure in 2 seconds will not appear.  What I found on this trip was very few people walked let alone ran through the framing of my photographs.  People, just as I was, were very interested in the scene and would spend several seconds enjoying the scene.  No one was "just passing through" this would require longer, much longer exposure times to make them disappear.  There were also many people so quite often after someone left the scene there would quickly be someone located in the same location enjoying the scene essentially to my camera ... as if the first person never left, or the second person , or the third!  All this meant that even longer exposures would be required!  At some point it is no longer practical to employ this technique to eliminate people from a scene.  After all how much time can you invest or want to  invest for a specific shot when you are on a tour?

The second reason that I did not attempt to use the "long" exposure technique to eliminate people from a scene was the required logistics.  A tripod and remote cable release for the camera are required.  This requires additional time and effort that I was unwilling or unable to make.

I was able to use the long exposure technique to create a photograph of silky water flowing under a foot bridge.  This however was a unique location as well as situation.  Our tour had stopped alongside the river and footbridge for a picnic lunch.  There were no crowds enjoying extended views of the scene and there was plenty of time to take the shots.

Although we encountered some waterfalls,  they were located along  narrow mountain roads that I deemed not safe enough to stop and set up the gear.

I ended up trying to time my shots to have no or few people in them.  Cropping is also a more efficient method to eliminate unwanted people than using the long exposure or multiple/blending exposure techniques.  As I was told more than once by a photographer that I admire ... "You have to make do with what you are presented with".

A great concern on going off on a "trip of a lifetime" is how much recording media to bring along especially to locations where photography supplies are very difficult if not impossible to find.  Again the answer is "It depends ..."

It depends on what size the files are that you shoot.  If you shoot uncompressed RAW files, you will be taking less, much less, the number of photographs on a media card than if you shoot jpeg files.

ISO 200 28mm f4.0 HDR

It also depends on your planned shooting techniques.  If you plan on shooting HDR or bracketed photographs each completed photograph will require 2, 3, 5 or perhaps even 7 separate exposures.  If you are attending an event such as a Tsechu with high energy dancing, you may choose to shoot in burst mode to freeze specific action moments.  These techniques more rapidly fill up media cards.

ISO 200 86mm f4.5 1/1000 sec

Based upon my recent experiences in photographing other unique locations such as Angkor Wat, Tonle Sap, and Sapa, I estimated that I would shoot around 1,000 exposures a day.  This was anticipating shooting a combination of HDR, burst mode shooting for dances at festivals, bracket shooting, and normal shooting.  I brought along sufficient media capacity for approximately 15,700 exposures - 15 days @ 1,000 per day.  As it turned out, I actually took 11,766 total exposures - a low of 183 on one day and a high of 4,100 on the day of one of the festivals.  The bottom line was that with knowledge of my shooting style and goals I was able to estimate my media needs.  There was no stress in having to be concerned during the tour of running out of media capacity or having to ration my shots towards the end to avoid a shortage.

Your needs will depend upon your style, and goals.  You need to go through a similar analysis especially if you are going to a location where additional media is not readily available or you do not intend to bring resources to download and store exposures as your media fills up.

Perhaps I should touch on the subject of backing up your photos as you travel.  There are many recommendations available on the Internet.  Again ... it depends.  I do not. I do not for a couple of reasons.  The first reason is I choose not to travel with a computer.  I prefer to use my luggage and carry on weight allocations for photography gear.  Secondly. after a full day of intense shooting, I usually am tired and do not want to spend the time and energy to download media cards.  Even using a USB 3.0 card reader, it takes around 30 minutes to download a full card.  Thirdly, I once downloaded some media cards to thumb drives as well as DVDs and it became too confusing.  I very nearly lost some photographs in the ensuing confusion.  I prefer to fill my cards and wait to download the photographs after I return home.

A rather unusual item that I brought along was a 220v power strip that had 4 outlets.  It was extremely useful.  It had been recommended by the tour operator.  The concern was that at some of the hotel rooms there might not be sufficient free electrical outlets to plug in camera battery chargers, cell phone chargers, computers, AAA/AA battery charger, ...  I found the additional benefit of the power strip, even where there were sufficient outlets, was that it centralized the location for items that needed to be packed each morning.  On tours it is best to simplify your logistics - having only one location to find and retrieve your rechargeable electronics is convenient as well as efficient.

My research indicated that there were three possible types of electrical plugs utilized in Bhutan.  I brought along all three types and ended up using two of them.  Another advantage of bringing along a power strip that you know handles all the plugs of your electrical equipment is that you only need one adapter plug to the hotel outlet rather than one for each of your devices or having to complete charging one device before you can charge the next because you have only one adapter plug.

Another item that I always take on travels is a journal.  My journal is a Moleskine 3.5"x5.5" hardcover lined paper book.  In my journal I have written specific as well as general information along with cut/paste inserts.

The journal includes specific information for the tour such as tour company contact information, list and email addresses of fellow travelers, tour itinerary, flight information, hotel information, pre-departure baggage and carry-on actual weights, list of medications that I am carrying, sunrise/sunset data for each day and location of the tour, moon rise/moon 45degree/moon set data for each day and location of the tour, list of photography goals for the tour, GPS locations for locations where I will spend the night, and a list of items in my first aid kit (if carrying one).

My journal which is used for more than one tour also contains general useful information such as list along with serial numbers of my photography gear as well as electronic gear, tips for shooting fireworks, a list of shot capacity for my media cards for each of my DSLRs along with total capacity and calculated daily average capacity. calculated exposure times when using ND or combination of ND filters, instructions for Waypoints, Routes, and Tracks for GPS Unit, instructions on how to use GPS Unit for daily tracks without it drawing a straight line, "Key Settings for Sunset", "Reflection Photography Tips", "Shooting the Moon Tips", "Hyperfocal Focusing", "Travel Photo Tips", "Camera Custom Settings, and "Clear Crowds with Long Exposure".

My purpose in having the journal is to have a convenient and centralized location for important information.  This reduces the time and stress of searching for specific information throughout the tour.  If it is not in my journal, I don't have it and most likely do not need it.

Previously I used to maintain a diary for each day of the journey in my journal.  I have now found that it is much too difficult to maintain a written diary.  On my next journey in October, I will maintain an oral journal for each day using a very small solid state voice recorder - much quicker than writing neatly in my journal.

My cameras do not geo-tag my photographs.  Prior to last year, I would go on Google Maps through Lightroom and manually tag each photo.  It was cumbersome and very time consuming.  Out of 80,000 photographs I was unable to locate 2,000.  Now with the GPS Unit geo-tagging is much more efficient, much quicker, and more accurate as well elevation is now available.  I find the GPS/map data extremely useful for identifying locations such as place names, identifying road names, and names of sites.  Using GPS in conjunction with Lightroom, means that I no longer have the burden as well as distraction of noting and recording, or trying to, in the journal locations where photographs are being taken. 

For our return to Bhutan in Spring 2018 I will be taking the following gear based upon my perceived needs and lessons learned from our Spring 2017 tour.  What should you bring?  It depends ...

ITEM	QUANTITY
Tripod	1
Ball Head	1
DSLR Camera	1
28-70mm F/2.8 Lens & Hood	1
80-200mm F/2.8 Lens & Hood	1
85mm F/1.8 Lens & Hood	1
20mm F/1.8 Lens & Hood	1
Batteries for DSLR  – 1 in camera, 3 loose	4
AAA Alkaline Batteries for headlight	3
Camera Remote Release	1
CF Cards – 640GB, 1 in camera, 4 loose	5
SD Cards – 928 GB, 1 in camera, 7 loose	8
DSLR Camera Battery Charger	1
Headband Flashlight	1
AA Rechargeable Battery Sets – 4 batteries	1
AAA/AA  Battery Charger	1
Filter Pouch/Assort Filters - CPL, ND	1
Lens Cleaning Kit	1
Journal Book	1
Solid state Voice Recorder	1
GPS Device	1
Battery Tester	1
40” 5 in 1 Reflector	1
Power Strip	1
Power Plug Adapters	1

Bhutan - Fifth Gallery Is Now Available

Finally!  Finally the fifth gallery of our trip to Bhutan earlier this Spring is available for viewing on my photography website.

 http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Bhutan-Day-8

This gallery covers the eighth day of our journey across Bhutan.  Most importantly the gallery documents the first day of the 2017 tsheschu - Domhkar Festival.

May 5, 2017 was the first time that Duang and I had witnessed the sacred dances called "cham" which are so important and defining of Tibetan and Bhutanese religious culture.

The event made quite an impression upon us and we consider it to be an experience of a lifetime.

This gallery of 74 selected photographs has been distilled down from over 4,000 photographs that I took that day - thank goodness for digital photography, I could not afford to do it in the old days of film!  I am pleased and proud of these photographs which I believe represents the best work that I have ever done in photography.

Bhutan - Fourth Gallery Is Available

Children Reacting to Passing Helicopter

We have returned from our month long trip back to America.  Now that we are back in Thailand with a repaired computer, easy access to the Internet, and access to my original files, it is time to focus on completing post processing of the photographs from our recent tour of Bhutan.

The fourth gallery, 19 photographs, from the fifth day of our tour - 2 May 2017 is now available for viewing on my personal photography website.

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Bhutan-Day-5

Man Making a Bucket for Yak Milking

Bhutan - Third Gallery Is Available

The Butter Lamp Cleaner

Another gallery of our recent tour across Bhutan is now available for viewing.

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Bhutan-Day-12

This gallery of 20 photographs is from May 9th, the 12th day of our tour.

The photographs are from the eastern city of Mongar situated at 1600 meters elevation (5,249 feet).

Much of our day was spent at a wonderful temple named Kadam Gompa which serves as an elderly daycare center.  Many elderly people spend the day there worshiping and socializing along with being fed lunch while their children are working.  On the day that we were there, there was a special day long ritual going on for a special annual Buddhist holy day.

Duang and I spent most of the morning in the temple observing the special Mahayana ritual - Monks chanting, drums beating, horns blaring, incense burning ...  Because of the holiness of the temple and ritual, we were not allowed to take photographs but we were fed tea and bread along with the Monks that were all around us - a very special memory for us.  We returned in the afternoon.  Duang spent the afternoon in the temple worshiping while I spent the afternoon photographing outside of the temple and going to a primary school variety show.

Exiting the Temple - Watch Out for all those shoes!

Bhutan - Second Gallery is Available - Brokpa Cultural Program

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brokpa Dancer Performing a Cham, a Ritual Dance

The second gallery, 41 photographs, from our recent tour across Bhutan is now available for viewing on my personal photography site.

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Bhutan-Day-14

The gallery covers the 14th day of our tour, a very special day.  We had reached the eastern most location of our journey across Bhutan.  We attended a cultural exchange program sponsored by our tour company.  A group of Brokpa people, semi-nomadic people who tend yak herds, had hiked two days to participate in the program highlighted by their performance of traditional Mahayana Buddhist chams (ritual dances) along with their unique Yak dance.

As per tradition in Bhutan, we as sponsors and esteemed guests, served lunch to the Brokpa people as well as the local villagers who show up.  It was a great event with many opportunities to get up close and personal with the Brokpa people as well as the people who inhabit the farms in the area.  Best of all, the only foreigners in attendance were our travel companions.

Young Monk With Puppy

It was a great day which left me wondering as to which group enjoyed themselves the most - much happiness in a land that values GNH, Gross National Happiness, rather than GNP, Gross National Product.

Bhutan - First Gallery is Available

Three weeks ago, Duang and I returned from a very special tour of an extraordinary place - Bhutan.

We had spent 16 days traveling across the land-locked Himalayan kingdom (Constitutional Monarchy).

We were fortune to travel with a small group of extremely interesting people from the USA,  Canada, Russia, and Australia.

Our tour was truly the trip of a lifetime.

We returned home to Thailand with many new friends, some wonderful memories as well as a desire to return in the Fall of 2018.

I also returned with 12,823 photos.  I have been very busy and will continue to be busy, if not obsessed, for the foreseeable future with editing as well as post processing the photos.

The first gallery of 26 selected photos is now available for viewing on my personal photography website at the following link:

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Bhutan-Day-13

As time goes by, I will be adding more galleries as well  as blog entries documenting this extraordinary place and wonderful people - often referred to as "The Last Shangri-la"

Going Back Once Again - Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm - August 10, 2007

Ta Prohm - November 4, 2014

Ta Prohm - 14 December 2016

The decisively characteristic thing about this world is its transience. In this sense, centuries have no advantage over the present moment. Thus the continuity of transience cannot give any consolation; the fact that life blossoms among ruins proves not so much the tenacity of life as that of death.
— Franz Kafka

Ta Prohm - August 10, 2007

Ta Prohm - November 2014

Ta Prohm - 14 December 2016

International Tourism to the Angkor Wat region has dramatically increased from 2006 when approximately 900,000 tourists visited. In 2016 the number of foreign tourists was 2,205,000.  Tourism to the region increases each year and naturally they all typically end up touring the ruins.

The ruins are mainly constructed from sandstone.  Millions of footsteps each year on and across the sandstone blocks cause both erosion and stress on the blocks. The material eventually breaks down sooner than if they were just exposed to natural forces. Just as wind and water can wear down rock, so can pedestrian traffic but quicker.

Millions of footsteps on the ground surrounding the ruins also damages the roots of the trees.  Damaged roots lead to diseased trees which collapse and cause additional damage to structures.  Compacted soil around the ruins affects the drainage of the area which affects the stability of the ground beneath the structures.

The international community, for various reasons and motivations, has sponsored and supervised the restoration of many of the temples.

Carving of Devata at Ta Prohm

Buddhism teaches that all things that are dependent upon something else or affected by something else are in flux, changing and not permanent but is impermanent.  The temples of Siem Reap are roughly a thousand years old - a very long time in human terms and perspective but they are far from permanent.

Many of the temples have strangler fig trees, sprung trees, and silk-cotton trees growing in them.  The roots of the trees grow over the tops of the structures, first starting in small crevices between the building blocks and as the roots increase in size - growing deeper and larger separating the building blocks and eventually contributing to the collapse of the structure - a process that ran pretty much from the fall of the Khmer Empire in the 15th century to the 20th century intervention by the Europeans.

The 21st century has ushered in accelerated efforts by nations such as The People's Republic of China, Republic of Korea, and India to "restore" and "save" the wonders of the region.

India sponsored and supervised the "restoration" of the famous "tree" temple, Ta Prohm.  Ta Prohm besides being known a s the Khmer temple ruin with the trees growing on top of it and was also the location for several scenes of the Angeline Jolie film "Laura Croft, Tomb Raider".

The restoration project lasted from 2003 to 2014.  The restoration and conservation effort involved installation of boardwalks and a railing system to control access by visitors as well as to minimize the impact of visitors on the site.

Conservation efforts also included efforts to repair and protect the trees from the stresses induced by visitors, fungal attacks, and instability due to pour drainage at the site.  It had been determined necessary to ensure the health of the existing trees in and on the structures to safeguard the structures.  For many of the structures the flora and the ruins had become inextricably one - literally and figuratively.  The tree root systems in many area support the structure and what would Ta Prohm, "The Tree Temple", be without the trees?

"A man sees what he wants to see, and disregards the rest"  paraphrasing Paul Simon.

So it is with the ruins of Siem Reap area and I am fairly confident of any other 1,000 year old ornate structures built by man.

At first glance and typically during the first visit, the majesty and complexity of the structures are over whelming.  The grandeur of man's works is astonishing.  However a more relaxing pace or second visit reveals that all is not what it originally appears to be.  There is often a hodgepodge of discontinuous carvings, shapes, ill matched textures, ill fitting block work, filled in window openings as well as filled in doorways. This reality was missed by our mind's desire to fill in the blanks when first viewing the massive ruins.  We want the ruins to be what we want them to be and our minds suppress processing the realities that do not fit into our desired interpretation of what we see.

Upon seeing these discontinuities, you are able to be aware that the ruins for a large part have been reconstructed by man.  The ravages and onslaught of time and nature have been mitigated by men far removed from the original builders.  Newer blocks and bricks along with recreations of portions of carved murals have been included into the modern ruins.

Part of the Indian restoration of Ta Prohm involved reconstructing a gallery that had collapsed.  For other structures, the reconstruction involved dismantling the structure and reassembling it in a more stable configuration.  Structures that were heavily braced by large timbers in 2007 are now free standing in 2016.

One of my favorite photos of our 2014 visit is of a gallery at Ta Prohm that I did not remember from our earlier visit in 2007 ... a collapsed gallery in 2007 that is now rebuilt as part of the 21st century restoration.

Ta Prohm Gallery - November 20114

The ruins of Cambodia are changing, constantly changing from the forces of nature, time, gravity and man - well intended or not.  The ruins of Cambodia are impermanent just as all other things, that are affected or dependent upon something, are impermanent.

Our trip back to Siem Reap was not going back in time because changes have made that impossible.  The ruins are no where near what they were one thousand years ago.  The ruins are not what they were just nine years ago.  They are not what they were nor are they what they will be.

However, Duangchan and I were able to experience and to enjoy the ruins with a different perspective.  We were able to embrace and accept the ruins as they were ... December 2016.

Although this was our third visit to Ta Prohm, and many changes had occurred since our first visit, there were sights there that had been there all the time ... only to be revealed to us on a third visit.

A carved head surrounded by a tree

Our experiences of this trip has left me wondering though.  I wonder about the futility and cost of restoration programs.  The intervention of man against nature and time will not stop changes.  At best the intervention will delay the manifestation of major change but never prevent it.  At its worst, man's intervention to stop change will create unnatural change or worst of all obliterate the spirit of the original object.  At what point is the original object destroyed leaving only the restorer's vision or interpretation to remain?

We were able to thoroughly enjoy our trip because we were able to appreciate and experience the changes ... to experience the ruins as they are.

Although major restoration work has subsided at Ta Prohm , conservation efforts related to vegetation continues.  Outside the main temple area in a field of moss covered stones distributed among the trees, Cambodian workers continue the effort to document the ruins.  The debris had unique identifying numbers painted on them.  Due to rain, moss, and intense sunlight, many of the stones were losing their identity.  A team of workers were cleaning the areas where the identifications were located and repainting the unique letter/number combinations with white paint.

Restoration work - repainting identification of stones

Thomas Wolfe wrote a novel entitled "You Can't Go Home, Again"

Quoting from the novel ""You can't go back home to your family, back home to your childhood ... back home to a young man's dreams of glory and of fame ... back home to places in the country, back home to the old forms and systems of things which once seemed everlasting but which are changing all the time – back home to the escapes of Time and Memory"

We were not able to go back in time but it was a pleasant as well as rewarding journey, once again, to Ta Prohm. It was an opportunity not to see it as it originally was but how it is today.