16 October 2008 - Ok Phansa

Ok Phansa

Yesterday, Tuesday 15 October, was Ok Phansa in Thailand.

Ok Phansa is the end of the three month long Buddhist Lent which started on 18 July. During this period of time, Monks, in general, only left their Wat to obtain their daily food offerings from the people. Ok Phansa besides designating the end of Lent also signifies the end of the rainy season.

Because this is a celebration, Duang wanted to return to her village to participate with her extended family. She told her son to leave the truck home for me to drive to Tahsang Village - my first driving venture from our new home. To be at the village Wat at 0800 when the Buddhas (Monks) had their meal, Duang wanted to get up at 0600.

I woke up to the sound of running water and realized that she had gotten up and was showering. I looked at the alarm clock and it read 0357!! Apparently Duang was more excited about the occasion than I was.

After she finished her shower, we were able to rest, if not relax, until 0600 when I took my shower.

When I reentered the bedroom to dress for the day, Duang was resplendent in a complete white outfit - a white silk brocade tunic style blouse, and floor length cotton crocheted skirt. She was wearing all of her gold - I knew that this was to be a serious celebration. I was also going to be being white or a reasonable facsimile. Duang had layed out on the bed my outfit - light tan slacks and a white "Creighton University Soccer" tee shirt (almost 20 years old!!). Old clothes but good enough to show the necessary level of respect.

We headed to the village but we needed to make a stop at the market in Kumphawapi to buy our offerings to the Monks at the Wat. Big bunches of bananas (about 2-1/2 pounds) were being sold for 7 Baht ($0.51 USD).

We got to Tahsang village and picked up Duang's Mom all dressed up in her best clothing and another woman along the way. We drove out of the village and on the dirt road through the sugar cane fields to the Wat where we had attended the festivities (launching homemade or rather "Wat" made rockets back in July).

About one-half of the village was at the Wat. Everyone was dressed in their best clothing and carrying offerings to be given to the four resident Monks. The act of giving the Monks food and drinks on this holiday earns merit for the villagers. Everyone was in a festive mood.
We all entered into the Wat, laid out straw mats (saht) on the bare concrete floor of the Wat. This is a poor village Wat and is very plain and simple. The roof is corrugated metal. The walls are half concrete block in need of painting, and the remainder is rusty metal filigree. There are a couple of subdued painted murals on the interior wall - one of the Tree of life and the other of Buddha teaching. There are some statues in one corner of the Wat.

The Monks bowls for their daily food were set up in a line at the edge of their raised platform at the front of the room. There was a high level of anticipation in the Wat. Outside the adolescent boys were lighting and throwing firecrackers oblivious to the bandaged wounds on Duang's 12 year old cousin's hand.

His hand was not cut by a machete.

His hand was not bitten by a dog.

His hand was not trampled by a water buffalo.

His hand had been injured by an exploding firecracker!

The younger boys occupied themselves by throwing dirt and rocks at other children.

The girls were busy running around playing tag.

One man leaned against his motorbike and occasionally yelled at the children when their behavior got too disrespectful to the ruins that that they were running around and over.

Inside prior to arrival of the Monks, people approached the Monk's bowls on their knees and filled each bowl. Duang and I had identical plates of food to offer the Monks. Each Monk's bowl was filled with a chunk of sticky rice (kao knieow), 2 packages of something wrapped in banana leaves (might have been a sweet concoction), and two small bananas.

Other people had grilled fish, and fruit in addition to their offering of kao knieow. Kao knieow is to the people of Isaan what potatoes are to the Irish. Some people also had small bottles of fruit juices and kool aid for the Monks. A layman helped to ensure that the bowls were properly filled so that they would not spill over. There were also dishes of prepared food for the Monks.

An elderly man, not Duang's uncle as is customary, had a microphone and said some words of welcome. He then recited some prayers and the Monks entered. They set themselves behind their bowls.

The Head Monk took the microphone and started to chant. The believers responded with their own chants and at times bowed their heads to the floor either three times in succession or once. For most of the ceremony I was out of synch with the group. A couple of times, I even added a couple of head bows alone and all by myself - no seemed to mind.

People were mostly set up on their sahts in family groups. However there were 12 women who were sitting together. Each one was wearing a white crocheted scarf draped over their shoulder and wrapped around their waist. I asked Duang what was it all about. These women had not slept that night and had spent the night fasting as well as meditating. One of her numerous aunts that was part of the group teased Duang about not having participated with them the previous night. I reminded Duang who translated to her aunt that Duang had almost spent the whole night up - she went to bed at 11:00 and was up at 03:30 to shower! We all had a good laugh.

For ceremonies this was a long one - so long that both my feet had gone to sleep along with my right leg and into my right buttocks. I was just one numb and prickly mass from the waist down. Duang noticed my discomfort and told me to go ahead and leave. I got up and to the entertainment of the people managed rather awkwardly to get out the door. I stood outside for at least 5 minutes before I could actually walk unimpeded.

I wandered around the grounds and saw were the villagers were building a new outhouse for the Monks - a three holer, separate stalls.

I came upon a work shed where bunches of dyed reeds were suspend from strings. On the floor approximately 8 meters long were two looms set up for weaving the reeds into saht. I found out from Duang that villagers go to the Wat and donate their time to make these saht for the wat. Because today was a holiday, they would not be working today but will be working on 17 October when we return to mark Duang's 45th birthday.

After the ceremony the Monks ate their meal joined by people who had brought meals of their own. When the Monks had finished eating most everyone left. Some very poor people remained to eat the remaining food that the Monks had left. Years ago Duang's children used to get many of their meals from the Monks.

Duang and her aunts got together and were discussing their aches along with their pains. Collectively they decided that they needed to go see the doctor to help them with their headaches. This was a good doctor who "help with medicine, good medicine, medicine go in fire, good good, fire and water go into body no more hurt hurt - my aunt says very good" OK - sounded interesting to me - this I had to see - whatever it was.

I drove out into the countryside - down several dirt roads through rice fields and sugar cane fields. After awhile we arrived at a small but very neat complex. It was the local medical clinic. There was a main building that had a single room that was split into a waiting area/reception area, two examination areas, a nurse's office and a dining area. The facility was very simple but very clean. It was superior to the hospital in Kumphawapi - this clinic had 5 plastic communal cups to drink water rather than the single metal cup in Kumphawapi.

When we entered, I informed the doctor in Thai that there were 5 crazy women to see him. The women walked up to the file cabinets, found, and pulled out their medical files. They then went and got their height, weight, and blood pressure determined. A clerk assisted them. They then told the doctor their problems. Privacy is not an issue here - there is none. People openly discuss their health issues with the doctor or nurse in open reception area.

The women got a prescription each paid 100 baht ($3.40 USD) and we went to another building in the compound. It turns out the second building is a Sauna. The women changed into wraps and waited for the nurse. She arrived and turned on the Women's Sauna. After being given their instructions, the women entered the sauna - it was very hot and smelled like menthol when the door was opened. The women stayed in for about 30 minutes before coming out for a drink and reentering for another 30 minutes. I waited in the reception area of the sauna with Duang's cousin with the injured hand.

The other building of the complex was the housing unit for the doctor and his family.
I am not sure if this was a real medical treatment or not. From the sounds coming out of the sauna it sounded more like an opportunity for women relatives to get away from it all and get into some serious gossip. When their treatment was completed, the nurse indicated that they should come back in a week for another treatment.

The women were happy but exhausted.

We drove back to our home without incident - not as easy as it may seem. People drive on the left hand side of the road rather than the right hand side in the USA. I am still not completely comfortable driving here.