Farroupilha Week

The southern Brasilian state of Rio Grande do Sul is an area of rich heritage and an extremely proud people. It is bordered on the south by Uruguay and on the west by Argentina.

Rio Grande do Sul is a state of many surprises. The first is that it is home to many blond Brasilians. In fact, 82.3% of the inhabitants are white and 5.9% are black. Rio Grande do Sul is home to supermodels such as Gisele Bundchen, Fernanda Lima, Caroline Trentini, Ana Hickman, and Jeisa Chiminazzo to name just a few.

It is in Rio Grande do Sul that Brasil gets snow fall. The interior of the state has mountains and gets cold enough to have snow sometimes.

Brasil's vineyards are located in the upper elevations of Rio Grande do Sul. Not surprisingly the higher elevations have many people descended from Italian or German immigrants.

The settlers of early Rio Grande do Sul were "gaucha" - the Brasilian equivalent of the American cowboy or the "gaucho" of Argentina. To this day cattle production and exports is a large part of the Rio Grande do Sul economy.

Like American cowboys, the gaucha were fiercely independent and free thinkers. After the Brasilian national government placed a heavy tax on a type of dry beef produced in Rio Grande do Sul but not on the same product imported from Argentina or Uruguay, the gaucha rebelled in 1835. The gaucha were poor people of the land and often their clothing was ragged and torn. Their rebellion was referred to as "Farrapos War" or "Ragged War" - a populous uprising, another case of peasants against the establishment with the outcome that most populous rebellions have - defeat. The war against the central government lasted until 1845. The war ended when the gaucha capital of Porto Alegre was captured on 20 September 1845.

To commemorate the rebellion, culture, and traditions of the gaucha, a large celebration is held every September in Porto Allegre. For 20 days around 700 people set up and camp at the Harmony Park to enact the gaucha rebellion. The highlight of the event is the week ending on 20 September and is referred to as "Semana da Farroupilha"

In 2005, while on assignment in Porto Alegre, I attended the festivities - I even have the tee shirt.

There are many civic groups or social groups dedicated to preserving and teaching the gaucha culture. These groups are known as CTGs (Center Gaucha Traditions). During September and specifically during Farroupilha Week they reenact the 1840's gaucha life - very much like American Civil War reenactments.

Each group has a small wood building and fenced off area for their members. The building is where they sing, dance, play music, drink, eat, and cook as if it were 1845. A few of their horses are kept near the building with the remainder kept in the common stockyard. All the club members are dressed in period costume. Large wood fires are kept outside of the buildings for roasting beef and pick - gaucha style. Gaucha style involves placing the large pieces of meat on either wood or metal skewers that are driven into the ground around the hot coals of the wood fire. The meat is slowly roasted for hours and is absolutely delicious. There are not BBQ sauces or seasoning other than salt applied to the thick cuts of meat. After the meat is cooked it is brought inside the building to large tables wear it is cut into serving portions using large butcher knives - knives that all self-respecting gaucha carry.


The Park is filled with the club members as well as visitors to the festival. In addition to the encampments there are booths selling gaucha products, foods, music, clothing, literature, and souvenirs. Since September is a wet month, the park also becomes a quagmire but that only adds to the uniqueness of this festival.

The club members are very friendly. They enjoy having their photograph taken and often invite you to enter their compound to better photograph the festivities and partake in the celebration.
I stopped at one compound and hung around the perimeter split wood fence taking pictures of the roasting meat. A man noticed me and invited me in for a closer look. I entered and took some shots of the meat spits. I was then invited inside of their building.

Inside a gaucha band was playing music, people were dancing, people were socializing, and just about everyone was drinking. Some people were drinking "chimarrao" - a tea type drink similar to mate made out of shredded holly type leaves. Drinking chimarrao is the state pastime in Rio Grande do Sul. Everywhere you will see people sitting around holding a wooden gourd shaped vessel with a thick layer of shredded leaves floating atop very hot water. The tea is sipped from the bottom of the wood vessel through a specialized metal straw. These rigs are readily available through out the state. Some of the straws are intricate works of art with ornate carving or made out of silver.

I spied a typical looking young woman drinking her chimarrao while leaning against the wall and photographed her. I was then given a beer and plate of food - no payment expected or accepted.

After awhile there was a big commotion in the room. There was a man walking around and people were tripping over themselves to pay their respects to this elderly man. I asked around and found out that he was the former governor of the state and a very high official in the current national ruling party. He was a true politician leaving no baby unkissed or hand unshaken - including mine.

Again the hospitality of a people proud of their identity and traditions.

In addition to the celebrations at Harmony Park there is a huge parade through the city. It was an enjoyable experience.

Many reasons to go back to a special place and people.