The weather has definitely changed here in Isaan. The high for today was 34 C (93 F). The forecast high for Tuesday is 36 C or 97 F - "hot" in either system.
Today we went out to Tahsang Village to take Duang's father to Kumphawapi Hospital for dental work. Rather than wait at the hospital I went off to the local Post Office to mail a letter back to the USA. It was a very busy day at the Post Office and in the small villages of Isaan.
Today the government was giving out 500 Baht ($14.28 USD) to elderly people. In Tahsang village, three government officials dressed in uniforms that resembled U S Navy aviator uniforms complete with gold wings and campaign ribbons had set up tables in the "community center" across from Duang's parent's house. "Community center" is a bit of an exaggeration. It is an open air pavilion with a concrete floor. Along three sides there is a concrete block wall about three foot high. This place is used for community affairs such as voting, and distribution of monthly allowances.
In more populated areas like Kumphawapi, the monthly allowance is distributed at the Post Office. By the numbers that you pick up when you enter the Post Office, there were 36 people ahead of me with only one clerk working. After a while the clerk made some kind of announcement and a bunch of people each holding an envelope or box to be mailed walked up to the counter - followed closely by me. The elderly would have to wait for the paying customers to complete their business.
I got back to the hospital just as Duang and her father had completed their business. We returned to Tahsang Village for a short visit and then on to visit Duang's daughter, well actually her brand new grandson, on our way back to Udonthani.
As we approached the Sugar refinery in Kumphawapi, we came upon a group of workers harvesting a field of sugar cane. I pulled over and got out to photograph the activity. The sugar cane harvest is still going on here in Isaan and will continue for about 6 more weeks. It is a very labor intensive process. The night before the harvest, the field is burned. The intent of the burn is to reduce the amount of dry leaves attached to canes and to open the field a little better for access to the stalks. The fire is hot and fast and does not burn the cane up. The sound of the fire racing through the tinder dry cane can be heard from far away. The leaping flames light up the night sky. Despite the absence of any fire fighting equipment or personnel, the fires do not get out of control and the fire remains contained to the designated field.The next morning the workers arrive carrying their heavy machete type knives along with their jugs of water along with plastic bags of food. They are covered head to toe in typical Isaan farming clothing to protect their skin from the glaring sun and dust of the Isaan fields.
There are actually two types of sugar cane that is grown here. One type is very tall and develops a flowery head sort of like pampas grass. The other type of sugar cane is shorter and does not come to a head. Both types of cane when mature dwarf the farmers. Today the farmers were cutting the flowery head type of cane. Their clothes soon were spotted with dandelion type seeds from the cane flowers.
The harvesting of the burned off fields is done by hand. The farmers set off and cut the cane one stalk at a time. Due to the previous night's burn, the stalks are scorched and sooty. The ground is also covered with patches of soot. In no time at all, the workers as well as an occasional photographer get covered soot. Some of the harvesters short circuit the process and wear all black - either to not show how much work they are actually doing or to just look cleaner.The farmers wear a glove or two gloves to protect their hands from the rough stalks. With one hand they grasp a single stalk and hold it. They then bend over and with their other hand chop off the stalk about 6 inches above the ground with a single powerful slash from the heavy machete type knife. The severed stalk is then lifted high into the air as the harvester trims off any leaves that remain on the cane from the burn off. The leave debris falls to the rutted dry ground and soon the field is a quasi minefield covered with ruts, dry leaves, ashes, and weeds. It requires a great deal of attention to not trip, fall, or worse yet avoid twisting an ankle.
The trimmed canes, about 8 feet long are cast to the side to create a row of just canes. Some of the workers go along and bundle the trimmed canes into 20 piece bundles that are tied together with cane leaves. Tonight the bundles each containing 20 stalks will be loaded on to a transport truck either by a mechanical loader or by hand using a 12 person crew.
As I have found throughout SE Asia the people did not mind being photographed either as they worked or took their rest breaks. They were somewhat amused about the foreigner scrambling around the debris and soot filled field taking their picture. I share the results with them and always thank them for allowing me to photograph them.Just before the turn off to Duang's daughter's village, there are several stands selling local products - usually produce. Even though it is the middle of February and the first corn harvest was at the end of September, we are still able to buy corn on the cob. In general corn on the cob is sold cooked in Isaan. Wood fires boil water in large metal tubs filled with fresh unhusked corn. A bag of 8 small ears costs 20 Baht ($0.29 USD). The corn is eaten right off of the cob without the addition of butter or salt. In Pattaya we were able to buy fresh corn but it was much more sophisticated - the vendor cut the kernels off the cob into a plastic bag, added sugar, shredded coconut, and a plastic spoon.
We bought three bags and brought them to share with Duang's daughter's in-laws. They have been very generous in sharing with us the fruits of their garden and fields. They are Lao Loum people and eat the same foods that Duang is fond of. They have given us a large bag of rice from their field and many vegetables out of their garden. Whenever we visit them we always try to bring something to share with them. I am especially fond of the baby's great grandfather and great grandmother.
After our visit we drove back to our home to begin editing today's photos and to write this blog.
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