Duang and I wandered across the narrow village street to the rice paddy where the stage had been erected for the show. We went backstage to visit with her brother and for me to photograph the entertainers prepare for their show. My brother-in-law had a knew Go-Go dancer in his show. She seemed rather shy and was rather difficult to photograph. It was oppressively hot and humid. Soon we were drenching wet. Even the dancers were showing signs of moisture through their outfits when all they had been doing was putting on their make-up. It seemed that my eyeglasses were constantly fogged up and my eyes were soon irritated from the salt of my perspiration running into them. Despite these discomforts we enjoyed ourselves. Soon some of the women in the deceased man's family came by carrying pots and dishes of food for the entertainers. The men ate and drank first without seemingly any regard for the female singer and dancers. Later when the women were going to eat, fresh pots as well as dishes of food were brought out for them. There is never a shortage of either food or drink at these celebrations.
The show got started at 9:00 P.M. and would run until 3:00 A.M. There never seems to be a problem with having these shows with the neighbors complaining about the noise. Perhaps it is because the neighbors seem to always participate in the celebrations. Perhaps it is because they know that at some time they will be responsible for a similar show. Perhaps it is because these events are integral part of being a member of an extended family or part of the village. I also suspect that a great deal can be attributed to the Lao Loum culture of enjoying one self and having a good time especially if it is free.
Prior to the start of the music, a spokesperson for the family welcomed the people and gave a short speech. He was followed by the Village Headman who gave a little longer speech. He was followed by two Police officials who each gave the longest speeches. After the speeches, three good sized fireworks were launched into the sky. The blasts were full sized fireworks that exploded high into the sky with loud bursts of colors. This three blasts of fireworks or firecrackers is typical of Lao Loum celebrations and are apparently to notify the spirits of the upcoming event as well as to scare off any bad ghosts in the area. In last night's celebration, the fireworks also were to assist the deceased man's spirit to ascend into the spirit world. After the three large mortar fireworks, with the number three significant in that they represented Buddha, the teachings of Buddha, and the Buddhist religious community, several other fireworks were released one at a time into the heavy night air. These fireworks were sort of like rocket propelled Frisbees. A man lit them and carefully sent them into the air like throwing a Frisbee. The rockets ignited and rapidly propelled the device spinning wildly in a shower of sparks high into the sky with a loud whirling sound. They are very impressive and are used more often conventional mortar type fireworks for the various Lao Loum celebrations. I was a little apprehensive about these whirling dervishes after recently witnessing one malfunction and strike a spectator. Fortunately last night the launching of the spinners was without incident.
After the fireworks, the show got started. As always the music and dancing was great. The new dancer who was shy backstage, was quite the performer on stage. Once again here in Thailand, things are not always what they appear to be. She hit every driving beat of the music with a great pelvic thrust. It was amazing how she could always accentuate every decisive beat of any song with an energetic suggestive body movement. On stage she was not shy at all. She also appeared to be thoroughly enjoying herself smiling throughout her routines no matter how long the set was. Quickly she became a crowd favorite.
The villagers were all very good dancers. There were a couple of young boys about 8 and 10 years old who were especially proficient at the Lao country current style dancing - a very animated stomp. When the band played the Lao Loum party song "Tee Hoy" my brother-in-law called me out to do my rendition of the Lao Loum country dance. I gave it my best effort and returned to my seat dripping in sweat, heart racing, and exhausted. There was even an old woman who could and was dancing up a storm. Later in the night the Kathoeys showed up as they always do at these shows. One of the lady boys put on a tremendous display of dancing - with just as many pelvic thrusts as the new dancer on stage but with the addition of wild and high jumps into the air while thrusting. True to her wish, the Kathoey attracted a great deal of attention including the recognition as well as acknowledgement of her dancing prowess by the lead female performer on stage. It was all good natured and everyone enjoyed themselves.
I don't know if it was the heat and humidity. I don't know if it was jet lag. I don't know if it was big dance. It might have even been the beer that I had been drinking. I ended up laying down with my head in my wife's lap and actually went to sleep no more than 30 feet from one of the bank of speakers for the show. My brother-in-law even made a joke about me sleeping.
I awoke in time to witness the special ceremony as part of the show. For the death merit making celebration show, the family goes up on stage and sits in front of the band. One family member holds the large framed photograph of the deceased. Another family member holds a large tray of offerings for the deceased. The try contains some food, a shot or two of whiskey, some plant leaves, some small flowers, some burning incense sticks, as well as some candles. Behind the family, a member of the band plays the khene, a long reed instrument that creates a sound similar to an accordion. The khene is the symbol of Lao culture and its music defines what it is to be Lao. It is akin to the importance and significance of the bagpipes to Scots. As the musician plays the khene, the female lead performer sings a traditional lament in Lao using the traditional Lao style of singing. It makes for a very moving and memorable experience of the Lao Loum culture.
After the lament, we returned home - a trip made shorter for me by falling asleep once again.It is great to be home again.
Thank you for that detailed description Allen.
ReplyDeleteI attended one of these ceremonies, or a least parts of it aot ten years ago, in a village just outside Nakhon Phanom. It was the first ever ceremony I attended and photographed in this part of the world. I as ignorant, but fascinated. A few weeks later I had printed the results and brought them back to the family, who were delighted. It was probably this occasion that prompted my return to serious photography and the start of what would evolve into my documentary of Luang Namtha province in 2002.
If I can find back some of my records of that occasion, I'll post some on Facebook.
It never ceases to amaze me how open and friendly the people here are in sharing their culture as well as their personal life with us. Itis a privilege that I am most thankful for.
ReplyDeleteI and, as I know, many others are grateful that you returned to serious photography.