On New Years Day morning, on our way out to Tahsang Village, we stopped at the local market in Kumphawapi. We needed some offerings and food for our visit to a special Monk near the village where my Mother-in-Law was born.
At the local
markets, just about anything can be purchased - clothing, hardware, prepared
foods, flowers, plants, DVDs, CDs, meat, seafood, turtles, eels, snakes, frogs
- basically if it is alive or was once alive, it is for sale. Local people and
people from outlying villages shop at these local markets.
In all villages there
are small, very small, markets where villagers can buy certain necessities such
as cooking oil, sauces, soap, shampoo, canned mackerel, soda, beer, whiskey,
snack foods and sometimes eggs and a few vegetables. These markets supplement
villager's shopping trips to the local markets.
Local markets are located
throughout towns and cities in Isaan. In rural areas, there are markets set up
alongside the road where people gather to sell and buy. Some of the markets are
temporary setups on specified evenings of the week (night markets).
|
Duang Buying Some Live Eels to Bring to Monk |
Local markets are a
combination of indoor permanent facilities and temporary outside facilities.
The indoor facilities are large dark open sided buildings or a series of connected
buildings with corrugated sheet metal roofs. Inside there are rows and rows of
fixed raised tables where the vendors set out their goods to sell. Outside
facilities consist of a low raised wood rough platforms typically covered with
plastic tablecloths upon which the merchandise is displayed along with a small
spring scale to weigh the goods.
A large umbrella protects the goods and vendor
from the elements. Sometimes there is a small plastic chair or aluminum lawn
chair for the vendor but quite often they sit atop the platform along with the
goods.
We were shopping at the local market because the food is cheaper than at the
big international stores, and most importantly the selection for the
types of foods that the Lao Loum people eat is much greater there.
|
Fresh Food Being Cooked Over a Charcoal Fire |
Shopping in the local market is not just the matter of going in, grabbing what
you need, paying for it and getting out. These local markets in Isaan also are
centers of gossip and social interaction. People end up meeting their friends
and relatives at the market so they stop and talk. The vendors also join in and
ask questions about family matters. The simple task of selecting vegetables to
buy also requires an involved conversation - to ensure the best quality, best
price and most likely most importantly of all be perceived as a "kuhn jai
dai" - a good person, someone with a good heart.
|
Part of the Fresh Fish and Seafood Section of the Market |
|
Dried Fish For Sale |
|
Pig's Heads At A Station of One of the Pork Vendors |
Scattered throughout
the interior of the indoor portion of the Kumphawapi market there are large
charcoal grills where fish and meat are cooked. Large metal ducts take the
smoke and fumes up and out through the sheet metal roof. Cooked products are
lined along the counter for sale. In other areas people use propane gas burners to cook
sweets. The sweets are typically corn or rice with coconut as well as sugar
added. I particularly enjoy the corn kernel- shredded coconut waffles fresh out
of the waffle iron.
|
Fresh Fruit, Mangosteens, 25 Baht a Kilogram ($0.38 a pound) |
|
Another Fruit Vendor, Everyday Is "Wear What You Want Day" At The Talat Sao |
Inside the market the aisles are very narrow as well as crowded. We had arrived around 7:30 A.M. so it was the height of the morning market rush. In addition to buying items for the day and days ahead, many people were buying their breakfast. You need to be
careful walking because the concrete floors are not level, have abrupt changes
in elevation, and are in various states of disrepair. Lighting levels are low
inside the market with illumination provided by a small number of exposed
fluorescent tubes and bare light bulbs. Interestingly, many of the bare light
bulbs are now the eco-friendly fluorescent type. An occasional cat or street
dog will also wander by to further complicate navigating through the market.
|
A Stall Selling Dry Goods and Some Goods that are Wet in Bottles |
Some of the vendors, typically those who are selling canned goods have updated
their booths with small TVs or stereos. This provides some entertainment and
distraction for their children or grandchildren who accompany the vendors.
|
Typical Thai Desserts Being Made For Sale |
|
Soup's On! |
Between the sights, sounds, and smells, a stop at the local market is always entertaining as well as interesting. There is also no telling what you may learn about just anyone, too. I have written several times before that there are no secrets in Isaan. The local market specializes in ensuring that and for free!
|
Duang Headed Out of the Talat Sao in Kumphawapi |
No comments:
Post a Comment