It has been a while since I wrote a new blog entry. We had spent six weeks in the USA which was great for taking photographs of landscapes in Olympic National Park and Glacier National Park but not so great for taking portraits which is what I prefer to do now.
We have been back from our USA trip for one month now. The past month has been very busy and my camera along with my preferred lens had to be sent to Bangkok for servicing. They are back now and we are getting back to our "normal" life.
Yesterday we went out early in the morning to Tahsang Village to participate and document a unique religious ritual associated with the Naga.
The people of Northeast Thailand are predominately ethnic Lowland Lao. The Lowland Lao of Thailand and neighboring Laos are Theravada Buddhists. As I have written several times in this blog, the actual beliefs as well as practices of the Buddhists here are actually an amalgamation of Animist, Brahmin, and Buddhist traditions.
In this region there is a strong belief in Nagas. Nagas are a deity that is in the form of a great snake although some Nagas are known to have transfigured into human form at times. One of the Naga kings, Phaya Nak, is believed to live in the Mekong River just north of our home in Udon Thani.
Each day of the week has a statue of Buddha in a particular pose associated with it except for Wednesday which has two poses associated with it dependent upon the time of day. The statue, or rather the pose, associated with Saturday is: The Buddha Seated Under A Naga
The Buddha Seated Under A Naga |
Yesterday a new shrine featuring The Buddha Seated Under A Naga was being dedicated at the Wat outside of Tahsang Village. This Wat is preferred by Duang's immediate family over the Wat inside of the village.
We arrived at the Wat amongst the sugar cane and cassava fields around 8:00 A.M. Preparations were already well underway when we arrived. Men and woman dressed in either white or very pale blue shirts and blouses were occupied sweeping up the vegetation litter throughout the Wat grounds. In short time the litter had been consolidated into four piles to be burned later. The ground was now bare sandy compacted clay with patches of mud from the daily rains that we have experienced for the past month (one day without rain since 9 August)
In the Northwest corner of the grounds, under the roof of a combination open kitchen/workshop area, women were busy preparing the daily food offerings for the Monks.
There was a large table covered with a white cloth over it and surrounded by a heavy red cloth with gold fringe in front of the new shrine. People were busy placing food offerings on the table in preparation for the dedication ritual later in the morning.
We went directly to the Sala, the meeting place where daily merit making of offering food to the Monks is conducted, with our offerings of bottled drinking water and food that Duang had prepared earlier in the morning.
Preparing Lotus Blossoms For Offerings Inside the Sala |
For the dedication ritual, "nine" was the requirement. All the offerings had to be in amounts of "nine"- nine green coconuts, nine bunches of bananas, nine turban squashes, nine Lotus blossoms in each vase, nine apples, nine pineapples and so on. As it turned out, there were three locations at the Wat where offerings would be made so there were several platters of offerings to be prepared. Since this is Thailand with a great appreciation and dedication to form as well as style - the offerings on each platter had to be placed with care and precision to be visually appealing.
I asked Duang why everything had to be "nine'. She explained to me "Not 5, not 7, not 10. 9 very good, very special - very good for Buddha" Who am I to argue? I don't have to understand to report what I experience, observe, or in this case ... what I am told.
Lotus blossoms, actually buds, are a very important floral offering during rituals. The lotus flower has strong symbolism in Buddhism. The flower grows in muddy and murky waters. From this environment it grows forth to be beautiful. Therefore in Buddhism, it represents the rising and blossoming above the mud and murk of the human condition to achieve enlightenment, purification - purifying of the human spirit which is born into a world of suffering to become one with the Buddha.
The petals of the closed Lotus bud are carefully peeled away from the bud, gently folded back towards, and the tips tucked back into the bud. This process continues until there are three rows of tucked in petals. Three - more religious connotations. Three is very significant in Buddhism - symbolizing the three gems - Buddha, the teachings of Buddha, and the Buddhist religious community (Sanga).
Prepared Lotus Blossoms Placed Into Vase |
Duang Participating In Merit Making Ritual Of Offering Food To Monks |
When the villagers had completed their meal, the Monks returned and the special dedication ritual commenced at the new shrine. The ritual was conducted by a visiting Monk from a nearby village. He apparently is better versed in those matters than the young Monk at the outside Wat.
The ritual was performed by the visiting Monk with the assistance of the Abbott of the "outside" Wat. The other "outside" Monk and three "Tapahao" young men witnessed the ritual off to the side.
The villagers sat on sahts (woven reed mats) placed upon the ground.
A Monk Tosses Chrysanthemum Petals At Shrine |
Sprinkling Flower Petals Outside of the Wat Grounds |
Offerings To the Spirits Placed in the Bot |
Sprinkling Flower Petals On Offerings to the Spirits |
Offerings At the Ruesi Shrine |
The Smoke Filled Ruesi Shrine |
The ritual ended with once again the offerings and the villagers being showered with Chrysanthemum and Lotus petals. Duang ended up with a wad of petals in her open pocketbook and I was showered with several handfuls - so many petals that some fell out of the bottom of my shirt when I lowered my pants to go to the toilet upon returning to our home. Duang said that it was all good luck for us!
I often get singled out for the special blessings - I am typically the only foreigner at the rituals. Since I go to so many of the events the Monks have gotten familiar and used to me. So when the blessings are given out, be it water or petals, I get more than my share - much to everyone's amusement. Or perhaps they believe that I need more than the local villagers.
I was not quite sure exactly what I had observed so I ran my theory past Duang. She listened and then said to me "Why you ask me? You understand already" I wanted to be sure that my theory was correct and did not leave anything out.
The offerings and blessing of flower petals at the new shrine were to welcome the spirits of the new shrine to its home. The tossing of the petals along the road out of the Wat and onto the adjoining dirt road outside the Wat was for the spirits that inhabited the area. This was like having the ritual when you move into a new home, start a new business , or in my early days here in Thailand - commence a refinery expansion!
The offerings at the Bot and Ruesi shrine were to their spirits so that they would be accepting of the new spirit inhabitants.
On our way out of the Wat, we stopped at the new shrine where people were removing the offerings. Duang brought one of the green coconuts back to the truck so that we could enjoy fresh coconut water for our trip back home. After determining that it was OK I had her also bring back one of the bunches of bananas. Tomorrow I will bake some banana bread for myself and my little friends back in Tahsang Village.
It is good to be back home!
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