Young Woman Singing In Sarapan Competition |
The end of Vassa is coming soon. Vassa, also known as "Buddhist Rain Retreat" and "Buddhist Lent" is a three lunar month period during the rainy season when monks are supposed to stay in their monasteries and temple grounds. This practice predates Christianity by over five hundred years. The intent of the retreat was to prevent Monks from trampling crops, injuring themselves, or perhaps harming creatures beneath the flooded fields.
The last day of Vassa this year, Wan Ok Phansa, is 8 October. Wan Ok Phansa is a day of great celebration. Great celebration includes fireworks. Yesterday at one of the markets that we shop at there was quite a run on fireworks. The roped off section inside the building near the cash registers was filled with adults and just as many children of all ages scurrying about selecting fireworks. There were sparklers, and pre-packaged ordnance of all sizes. In three separate wire boxes there were round fireworks of three different sizes - the largest being the size of a medium coconut.
During the past two weeks, as the end of Vassa approached, twice we have attended a special religious observance - a sort of singing competition called Sarapan. Sarapan is the singing of the three gems of Buddhism - Buddha, the Dhamma (teachings of Buddha), and the Sanga (Buddhist religious community)
Duang told me it was "salapon" or what sounded like "s-a-l-a-p-on" to me. I searched on Google for salapon, salapan, salaporn, sarapon, saraporn, and not until I tried "sarapan" did I get some information - little as it was. The lesson that was reinforced upon today was - don't always trust your ears - try and try again when researching a word from one language to another language.
The information from the Internet confirmed what Duang had told me and provided a little, very little, more background.
Sarapan Ensemble Performing In Ban Dum Nam Muang |
Upon entering the small village, we saw some type of event in progress at the local Wat. Several pavilions had been set up on the Wat grounds along with a stage. Many women were dressed in matching traditional Isaan clothing.
After taking my photos at the injured woman's home, Duang was fully engaged with the other visitors and occupants of the home. I knew that the visit was going to last a while and that I would understand very little of what was being or would be said. I made my farewell to the residents and I told Duang that I was going to check out what was going on down at the Wat as I took off.
As I entered the grounds with my camera and camera bag, I was immediately met by a security man. No, he did not want to check my backpack. No, he did not want to see any identification - photo ID included. He wanted to bring me to where he thought that I would get the best photos. He had no concern for the dignitaries that he walked me in front of. He wanted to be sure that I was at the foot of the stage - center stage! I acknowledged the seated dignitaries and Monks seated under a large canopy about ten meters to my right. I took a few quick shots and retreated to a less obtrusive location at the end of the stage.
This is a common experience for me here in Thailand. People, even security people, are very friendly and accommodating when I go to take photographs. I show them some of the photos that I am taking which is a small way of thanking them for their help.
Another Sarapan Ensemble Performing In Ban Dum Nam Muang |
The singing of Sarapan often during Vassa became popular and there are many competitions. Here in Isaan there are many competitions between the local villages of sub districts. At the end of each year there is an athletic competition between the various village elementary schools. These competitions are a rich blend of sports, music, ethnic foods, dance, crafts and socializing for people of all ages. In early May, at the start of the Rainy Season, there is a competition between the villages of a sub district. The competition, traditional dancing, associated with Bun Bang Fai (rocket festival) has each village entering a dance team wearing traditional Lao Loum costumes. It is great to watch and very interesting to photograph. Weeks prior to the competition, the villagers practice their routine - called to practice and dancing to music blared over the village sound system.
These competitions as well many religious festivals and events foster a sense of community and reinforce the cultural identity of the Isaan people. Sarapan competitions serve the same purpose as well as being merit making rituals for the performers.
Awards Table |
For the Sarapan competition in Ban Dum Nam Muang cash prizes were awarded. First place was 8,000 Baht. Second place was 5,000 Baht. Third place prize was 3,000 Baht ($100 USD approx.). All other participating ensembles received 2,000 Baht to help pay for the costs of competing.
The local government helps to finance the competition as well as donations from local politicians, patrons, and local businesses - again the community contributing to building a sense of community and supporting the celebration of local culture.
Our second encounter with Sarapan Competition was on September 28th. For two weeks our friend, Luang Por Pohm Likit, had read an invitation to the people of his forest Wat to attend a Sarapan competition in a small village. We ended up driving him in our truck as part of a four vehicle convoy over to Ban Nong Na Kham. Ban Nong Na Kham is very close to the Wat that we witnessed the first Sarapan competition.
Sarapan Ensemble In Ban Nong Na Kham |
Duang stayed with the other people of Ban Mat and I wandered off to take photographs.
Novice Monks Finishing Their One Meal of the Day |
I was enjoying myself listening to the singing, taking photographs, and interfacing with the people when after a short while, or so it seemed to me, I ran into Luang Por Pohm Likit in a wooded grove on the Wat grounds. He said that my wife was looking for me. We went off together and quickly found Duang who informed me that she had been looking for me for an hour. I guess time does fly by when you are having fun. I was not the only one having fun that day.
Enjoying Ice Cream At the Helium Balloon Booth |
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