Sadhhus

Sadhhus are Hindu holy men.  Hindu holy women, far fewer than the number of Sadhhus, are known as Sadvin.

Sadhhus are found all over India and Nepal.  Saddhus can be seen wandering the roads, some live in monasteries, taking temporary residence at shrines and many can be seen a religious festivals. They are associated with many Hindu orders and schools of beliefs.  They are wandering ascetics, people who live austerely - forsaking family, friends, and comforts of this life to focus on their religion and religious development. They are highly respected by Hindus as being representatives of the gods.

Today, people from any caste can become a Sadhhu.  Becoming a Sadhhu, for a Hindu, is a stage, the fourth and final stage of this life that every man is expected to go through.

They rely upon the generosity of others for their survival.  Of their few possessions, one of the most important is their begging bowl. Other typical possessions are a wooden staff, a cloth bag.

Sadhhu lives are devoted to spiritual matters - self purification, meditation, worshiping, making pilgrimages, studying religious texts as well as adhering to dress codes, diets, and requirements of their sect.  Sadhhus also preach and teach religion to others.

Life as a Sadhhu can involve some unique and fascinating rituals as well as displays.  Many Sadhhus are known for smoking marijuana and hashish.  Some Sadhhus cover their almost naked bodies with the ashes of cremated people. There are Sadhhus who perform physical feats such as keeping their left arm raised ... for years, remaining silent for years, pierce their tongues, or perform other extreme displays of yoga practice.

I have written several times on this blog site about life - specifically "There is the way that things are supposed to be and then there is the way that things are".  So it is with Sadhhus, or at least some Sadhhus that I encountered.

I am intrigued with unique religious practices, beliefs, and people's devotion.  Living in Southeast Asia, I have many opportunities to satiate my thirst and hunger to experience some of those rituals and practices.

One of my goals for my tour of Upper Mustang, the former Kingdom of Lo, was to photograph some Sadhhus.  My research prior to departure, revealed that Sadhhus can be found at the Hindu temple of Pashupatinath outside of Kathmandu, Nepal.  Actually, my research found many photographs of the same Sadhhus there.

Upon my return to Kathmandu, from Upper Mustang, I went to Pashupatinath in the morning to observe and photograph the cremations and the Sadhhus.

The Saddhus were easily found.  The first Sadhhu that I encountered was seated on some steps alongside the broad walkway from the temple entrance to the ghats lining the sacred Bagmati River.

He was extremely photogenic and it was obvious that he knew how to "work it" for the camera. My research also had informed me that it was customary, if not expected, to make an offering to the Sadhhus for photographing them.

After spending considerable time photographing the funeral rituals along the river banks, my guide and I commenced climbing the concrete steps to the higher levels of the temple.  Part way up the incline we encountered a crush of tourists - tourists busily photographing a group of Sadhhus seated in or in front of the stone shrines dotting the hillside.

These Sadhhus were familiar faces from my previous research. As I jockeyed about to take more candid photographs of the Saddhus, rather than obviously staged poses, and photographs not cluttered up with other tourists in them, I made eye contact with one of the Sadhhus.  He had been watching me and seemed concerned that I had not made an "offering".  I pantomimed to him that I would make the "offering" after first taking my photographs.  He seemed to accept that promise and went about with his "work" for the other tourists.  I like and prefer to make my offerings and payments after taking the photographs knowing full well what I got for my money.  I thought this was rather odd - wandering ascetics who have rejected all the ways, objects, and comforts of this world being concerned about not getting offerings for having his photograph taken.

 "There is the way that things are supposed to be and then there is the way that things are".

I would have liked to have engaged in some conversation with these Sadhhus - to get to know some more about them, their life, their beliefs and their philosophy but the crush of tourists (photography frenzy?) was not conducive to such an experience.  I also had developed that these "holy men" might not have any "secrets of life" to share with me or that I would value.  After all, I am an American and fully aware as well as experienced of capitalism and materialism.

Further up the hill, we encountered another group of Sadhhus located in front of another shrine.  This locale was much more peaceful - shade from trees and no other tourists.  I have learned from my travels that if you want better photographs and unique experiences, you have to make the extra effort and go a little further away from, if not far away, from the maddening crowd.

The Sadhhus were very photogenic, just as their brethren down the hill, and accustomed to being photographed.  For me the relaxed atmosphere was much more enjoyable than down the hill.  These Sadhhus also expected to receive offerings.

Were these real Sadhhus, true holy men?  Were these real Sadhhus or were they more like cosplayers or as real as a tiger is a tiger that lives in a zoo cage?  I don't know.  It is not for me to say.

Paraphrasing Paul Simon's lyrics in "The Boxer" ... "a man believes what he wants to believe and disregards the rest"

During my journey in Upper Mustang, far from anywhere where there was not even a defined road - just miles and miles of dust and rocks in the Kali Gandaki River gorge, we encountered a Sadhhu.  I suspect that he was on a pilgrimage to the Hindu holy site of Muktinath.  I remember and cherish the brief exchange with him as we rumbled by in our four wheel drive vehicle.  Our driver and guide excitedly and emotionally shouting to him and calling him "Baba" - honorific term for "father".  It was a true moment of respect and joy.