A New Gallery - "Back In Time - Angkor Wat"

A new photo gallery is now available on my photography website.

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Back-In-Time-Angkor-Wat

This gallery of 35 photographs from our trip to Angkor Wat a year ago is a departure from my normal practice for my photographic work.  I typically post and populate my galleries with color photographs.  I prefer color because, for me, it better represents the reality of the moment that was captured.

For a photographer, or any artist, it is important to maintain an open mind and, more importantly, to continually refine one's style and improve one's skills.  I have started to venture a little more into black and white for some of my photographs.  For this series of photographs, in particular, the use of black and white is appropriate and, now in my opinion, preferable to color.

The ruins of Angkor Wat and its environs are a profusion of vegetation and weathered stone.  I find that in most cases the focus on the muted tones of the ruins are distracted by the vegetation in color photographs.

On Facebook, I recently seen and enjoyed many photographs from the 1880s and early 1900s of Southeast Asia.  I also noted how popular the postings were.

For this gallery I decided to try to capture more of the mood of the ruins than can be conveyed in an "as shot" reality of today.  To capture my interpretation of the mood for the ruins, I post processed my shots to convert them into a more 1880s and early 1900s photographs.

My goal is to provide a more unique opportunity to clients to purchase different type and style photographs of the Angkor Wat and its environs than is so commonly available from others.

Dancing Nymphs - The Apsaras

Apsara of Angkor Wat

Earlier this month, we returned to Cambodia, more specifically, Siem Reap after seven years.

Seven years ago, Duang and I had visited Siem Reap and Tonle Sap for four days.  In the ensuing years I acquired a new more sophisticated camera and acquired some more advanced photographic skills.

This year we decided to spend 6 days in the Angkor Wat area to revist Angkor Wat and associated Khmer ruins as well as to attempt to document the fisheries of  Southeast Asia's largest freshwater lake - Tonle Sap.

We arrived in Siem Reap late morning, Monday 3 November.  After checking into our hotel, we headed out to Angkor Wat early afternoon to tour the ruins and be there to photograph the sunset on the temple.  Waiting for sunset is not that great of a wait ... the sun sets around 5:30 PM, 5:35 PM exactly on November 3.

Many things have changed in the seven years since our last visit.  Some changes are not so good and some changes are for the better but greater details of the changes will be addressed in future blogs.  One change, for the better, is the ruins, specifically the towers, are no longer obnoxiously covered in scaffolding and obtrusive tarps.  Some parts of the ruins are under renovation but the tarps are much less visible - a forest green that almost seems to blend into the stones.

Another change, not so good, is the great increase in the number of tourists - specifically bus tours of mainly three groups - Chinese, South Koreans, and Russians.  The ruins are much more crowded than before ... unless you have hired a professional photography guide who knows when and where to go to avoid the tourist hordes.

We had hired a guide service prior to arriving in Cambodia - money very well spent.  We were never overwhelmed by crowds and were shown hidden gems off of the organized tour track.

For many years I was conscious of the "Ugly American" stereotype - you know - the American tourist - ill mannered, loud mouthed, and obnoxious.  Well things have changed - we are no longer the scourges of tourism.  Americans are no higher than 4th on the list, at least in Cambodia - having been surpassed by the Chinese, followed by the Russians and then the South Koreans.  It was nice to no longer be number 1 in that regard.

No matter, we managed through the skill, knowledge, and experience of our guide to minimize our exposure to the tour groups.

Leading up to the sunset on Angkor Wat, we toured the side galleries of the ruins and the upper terraces of the temple.



Devatas of Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat has many stone carvings - many large and grand battle scenes and mythological scenes connected to either Hinduism and Buddhism.  However for this trip, I was more focused on the carvings of Apsaras.

Apsaras are celestial maidens - nymphs.  They are beautiful, graceful, young females - who dance to entertain, and sometimes seduce the gods as well as mortal men.  They are somewhat like angels in the Hindu religion.  Apsaras, besides being known for their dance are also known to rule over luck in gambling and gaming.  Apsaras also are involved in fertility rites.

Through the influences of trade and Hinduism from India as well as the spread of the Khmer Empire from 800 AD to 1400 AD, the concept and mythology of apsaras is part of Indian, Thai, Lao, Burmese, Cambodian, Indonesian, and Vietnamese culture today.

During the reign of Khmer King Jayavarman VII in the 12th century, there were an estimated 3,000 apsara dancers in his court.

In the ruins of Angkor Wat there are many depictions of apsaras dancing or waiting to dance.  Other females who typically are larger and appear to be guarding the temple are known as devatas.

Apsara Dancing - Wall Panel at Angkor Wat

Apsara Sandstone Carving

Devatas Decorate a Column of Angkor Wat

Devatas

Apsara Dance in Cambodia was taught almost exclusively in the Royal Court.  During the reign of terror by the Khmer Rouge (i.e. "The Killing Fields") and their leader Pol Pot, the art of Apsara dance was just about eliminated.  After the fall of the Khmer Rouge, the King of Cambodia's daughter, who had been a principal dancer with the royal dance troupe before the reign of the Khmer Rouge, worked to reestablish the art form.

Sixteen years after removal of Pol Pot regime, the Apsara dance returned to public performances in Cambodia.

Apsara Dance has 1,500 intricate gestures and positions for performing the dance with most of them having significant symbolism.  Dancers at the Royal University of Fine Arts commence their training around seven years old. After 9 to 12 years of training they are ready to perform.

People can experience Apsara Dance at many restaurants in Siem Reap and also at the Cambodian Cultural Center.  I am certain that the skill level and authenticity of the restaurants is far less than the performances by the Royal University of Fine Arts.  However, the cultural shows give a good introduction to the art form.

We attended a restaurant show during our last visit in 2007 and returned to the same restaurant, albeit at a different location, during this month's trip.

We thoroughly enjoyed our visit once again to Cambodia.  Attending the performance of the Apsara Dance was one of many highlights.

Cambodia - Siem Reap

My Take On the Classic Angkor Wat Photo

I have been occupied re cataloging some of my 30,970 photographs lately and the process has brought back many memories of past travels.  One such trip was our journey three years ago to Cambodia.  Since I have also been stirring up some people on Facebook and on some of these Blogs regarding current events and personal responsibility as well as accountability, I will revert back to a blog or two about travels to exotic locales - for the time being.

In August 2007, I needed to exit Thailand and then reenter to obtain a Visa to remain in Thailand until I was scheduled to depart for work in Vietnam in early September.  Taking advantage of this requirement along with a long time desire to see Angkor Wat, I decided that rather than take a bus across the border to Cambodia, enter Cambodia for all of 15 minutes and then returning to Thailand, we would visit Angkor Wat.

Travel to Siem Reap, the city that is the hub for Angkor Wat tourism, was not difficult.  From our home in Pattaya we drove to Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi International Airport about 1-1/2 hours away.  At BKK we took a morning flight on Bangkok Airways directly to Siem Reap - about 70 minutes flight time.  We arrived in Siem Reap around 10:00 A.M. 

We did not have a Visa prior to entering Cambodia so we, like most of the other passengers, stood in line at the Siem Reap Airport to obtain a "VOA" (Visa on Arrival).  I had researched ahead of time so we had the required passport photographs and US dollars ($20 each) to obtain the visas.  There was no problem with getting a VOA, and when we return to Cambodia we will do the same again.

I had used the Internet to make reservations at a hotel in Siem Reap so we grabbed one of the many freelance cabs waiting at the airport.  The vehicle was in fairly good shape.  The driver spoke English rather well and he seemed to be a safe driver.  These three qualities were sufficient for me to inquire about hiring him for transportation during our entire stay.  It turned out that he could not be hired but he knew of a good guide and driver that he could recommend.  Once again I relied upon my and Duang's intuition and accepted the taxi driver's recommendation.  This is contrary to what guide books recommend for tourists, using freelance transportation and taking recommendations of locals, but Duang and I are "travelers".  Using our intuition we rely heavily local experts rather than foreigners for suggestions and recommendations to enjoy their city.

Our Cambodian Guide

After settling into our room - dumping out two carry-on bags and using the bathroom, we went downstairs to wait for our "guide" and "driver".  After 15 minutes, as promised by the taxi driver, our guide and driver arrived.  Our guide was a young man who spoke excellent English and was a government licensed guide.  To be a licensed guide a person must demonstrate an extensive knowledge of the temples and sites in the Siem Reap area.  I strongly recommend hiring a guide.  There are so many temples, ruins, and history in this area that to just to start to develop an appreciation let alone an understanding of Angkor Wat and other local ruins requires the assistance of a knowledgeable guide.

Our guide came with a vehicle and a driver.  The vehicle was in good shape and most importantly - it had a very good functioning air-conditioner.  Siem Reap is always hot and humid. Having a car with an operating air conditioner for refuge from the sun, heat, and rain is well worth the cost. Knowing what you are looking at as you travel from point to point is a bonus.  Not having to watch out for ox carts, cattle, tourists, motorbikes, cars, trucks, and pedestrians while trying to read a map as you drive is a sanity saver.  Being able to have someone take you to sights and scenes that meet your identified interests makes a guide's services invaluable.

I believe that you can tour Angkor Wat on bicycle or motorbike on your own.  The area where the temple and ruins are situated is about 14 miles by 12 miles - 168 square miles!  I always recommend that people do not rent and drive a motorbike here in Southeast Asia - it is just too dangerous.  If you were to be involved in an accident, matters are unduly complicated by the fact that you are a foreigner - unfamiliar with the language, "rules", customs and practises of the local area.

Siem Reap is a boom town.  Hotels and restaurants seem to be opening everyday.   After the nightmare of the Khmer Rouge and subsequent Cambodian Civil War ceased fighting in 1998.  Angkor Wat and the Siem Reap had been the scene of fighting. As we flew into the Siem Reap Airport low over the flooded rice paddies glistening in the bright August sun, I could see remnants of bomb craters scattered all over the countryside.  Now that Cambodia is stabilized and a magnet once again for tourism, many hotels and restaurants are being built.  There are also some renown cooking schools, many of them French affiliated, located in Siem Reap.  The schools provide training for the Cambodians and support the large international hotels in the area.  The result is the availability of fine and sophisticated international dining in a locale that is somewhat primitive in infrastructure.

The streets and roads of Siem Reap are crowded with all kinds of vehicles with a heavy smattering of pedestrians.  There is the energy, excitement, and noise of a boom town which adds to the over all ambiance of the area.  We drove through town and headed out to Angkor Wat on the afternoon of our first day.  Just outside of the entrance to Angkor Wat we stopped to obtain passes for the area.  To tour or visit the temples and ruins you need to possess a pass. You wear your pass on your clothing  so that it can be readily checked by authorities and security guards.  A one day pass is $20 USD.  A three day pass costs $40 each. A one week pass is $60 US dollars.  You need a passport size photograph and US dollars to obtain a pass.  I was able to withdraw US dollars from my bank account in California using an ATM machine in Siem Reap - Cambodia has changed  and changed rapidly in the past 12 years!  I do not know why anyone would visit Angkor Wat for just a day other than to be able to claim "I was there!"  At a minimum I recommend three days to tour the ruins.  Five to seven days is not unreasonable and most likely would be easier on your body.  We spent three days and with all the climbing, heat, and humidity, we were exhausted as well as sore at the conclusion of our trip to the ruins.

Children Playing At Angkor Wat - Sandstone Causeway Is To the Right

The first stop was the Angkor Wat Temple.  It was magnificent even with parts of it covered in scaffolding and tarps.  The temple as well as all the others in the area are built from sandstone.  Sandstone is easy to carve but does not weather well.  The temples were built from 800 A.D. to 1400 A.D. and have been subject to the ravages of the jungle, the environment, competing religions, wars, some well intentioned but technically misguided restorations attempts and now hordes of tourists.  Many of the ruins are in danger of disappearing into mounds of rubble in the near future.  International efforts to correct previous restoration attempts and to slow the effects of tourism and weather on the sites are continually underway.

Khmer Worker At Entrance to Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is surrounded by a man made moat.  We walked across a large sandstone causeway to enter the temple.  The combination of the multi tiered temple, out lying structures and large moat surrounding the temple has been interpreted as being the recreation of the Hindu universe.  The central temple represents Mt Meru, the home of Lord Brahma, with the moat representing the cosmic oceans.

We entered through the main entrance and continued along the causeway towards the central temple.  Inside of the walled area, two libraries flank each side of the walkway.  Past the libraries are identical pools flanking the walkway. Balance is a strong theme in the architecture of Angkor Wat.  There is a symmetry along the main axis of the site. The symmetry adds a sense of order and balance that one would expect or at least hopes would exist in the universe.  The scale of the temple is massive.  Contemplating the resources and commitment required to create such a wonder gives an hint at the power and glory of the Khmer Kings of the Angkorian Period.

A Nun Peers Around A Bas-Relief Column

Angkor Wat and Surroundings From Above

Hindu Diety Vishnu Inside of Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is believed to have been constructed as a funerary temple for King Suryavarman II who had unified the Khmer people and spread Khmer influence over Burma, Malaysia, and Thailand.  King Suryavarman II was devoted to the Hindu Deity Vishnu.  He dedicated Angkor Wat to Vishnu.

The bas-reliefs throughout Angkor Wat depict many scenes from the Hindu epics, "Mahabharata" and "Ramayana".  There are many "Apsara" (heavenly nymphs, celestrial maidens).  The Apsaras were very proficient at dancing and today a very graceful style of dancing in Cambodia is referred to as "Apsara Dancing".  Despite the efforts of the Khmer Rouge during their reign to wipe out Apsara dancing, the art has been revived and is now flourishing.  Unlike their ancient cousins, today's Apsara dancers are not bare breasted - or at least none of the dancers that we found during our visit to Cambodia.

Angkor Wat Apsara Bas-Relief

Bas-Relief - An Apsara

Angkor Wat Bas-Relief

Visiting Angkor Wat is physically challenging.  In addition to the sun, heat, and humidity, accessing the ruins involves climbing many heights.  Access to the higher portions of temples and ruins is made by climbing wood stairs but mostly by climbing up the narrow and extremely steep original stone steps.  The Khmer believed that the upper reaches of their temples represented heaven and since attaining heaven is difficult for man, reaching the upper portions of their temples was consciously made difficult as a reminder to mankind.  Having attained the upper reaches of the temples I can attest to the difficulty and value attained through the struggle.

Angkor Wat Courtyard Viewed From Above

After touring Angkor Wat all afternoon, we returned to our hotel to refresh ourselves and rest prior to going out for dinner.  Based upon the recommendation of our guide we went to a restaurant that in addition to a large international buffet had a cultural show.  The food was excellent and more importantly the entertainment was fantastic.  Performers played traditional Cambodian music and traditional dances.  After viewing so many Apsara dancers carved out of stone, it was a welcomed change to finally view some Apsara dancers and dancing in the flesh.

A Khmer Musician During Cultural Show

A Khmer Classical Dancer Performing

An Apsara Dancer