The Royal Barge National Museum

Duang and I have been to Bangkok more times than we care to remember; many of the visits related to business with the American Consulate.  On our last trip last month as part of Duang's process to obtain a US Green Card, we decided to visit some places and do some things that we had not experienced before.  One place that we had not visited before was "The Royal Barge National Museum".

According to many Bangkok travel guide books and web sites, people should arrive at the museum by boat.  The museum is located across the Chaophraya River in Thonburi. The guidebooks and the websites state that going to the Royal Barge National Museum by land is "long, hot slog from the road via jumbled alleys with scant signage".  First of I consider guidebooks as well as websites to be just that - "GUIDES".  They are like schedules in that they provide a means to develop your own itinerary based upon the information that they contain.  They provide a means to evaluate and modify your trip as situations develop.  They in themselves are not the end all or only means for determining your trip.  Interestingly as you perform more and more research on a location you find that the information more and more closely resembles each other.  Many websites and guidebooks are obviously based on the same source of information.  It reminds me of the saying about one bad apple ruining the whole bushel basket of apples.  How many guidebooks and websites caution against eating "street food"?  How many travelers never experience the delights of local cuisine because of fears inspired by guidebook recommendations.  Just about every guidebook cautions against using ice cubes in your drinks while in Thailand.  In reality the ice cubes are manufactured by companies using pure water and transported in plastic sacks in clean trucks.  I use ice cubes throughout Thailand just like the local people do.  The locals do not want to become ill any less than I do.  You haven't drank a beer here in Isaan unless it is from a glass with ice cubes in it - like the locals do.

As for accessing the barge museum from the road - our biggest problem was getting the taxi driver from the Lumpini Park area of Bangkok to understand where we wanted to go.  I told him in English, and pantomimed rowing a boat in the special style used for Royal Barges.  He was amused but did not seem to understand any better.  Duang spoke in Thai and he didn't seem to understand.  I mentioned "Thonburi" and the 1,000 kilometer stare started to recede from his eyes.  We showed him on a map but the map was entirely in English which doesn't help all that much with a Thai driver.  However it seem to boost his confidence if not ours that he knew where we wanted to go.  We set off in the heavy downtown Bangkok traffic for our intended destination.  Fortunately there was heavy traffic so that the driver had more opportunities to consult the map.  After awhile I recognized that we were in the Dusit Area where we had been the day before.  According to our map, Dusit was on the way to the Barge Museum.  As we crossed the modern bridge over the Chaophraya River, all confusion appeared to disappear - there was a sign in English and Thai for the Royal Barge National Museum!  We took the indicated exit and ended up on a side street.  There was a sign for the museum at the entrance of what appeared to be a high rise apartment building set a ways off of the street.  We continued a little further and ended up at the entrance to a Navy base.  The guard told the taxi driver where the museum was located.  We turned around and went back to the entrance of the high rise apartment building.  The driver told us to walk towards the building.  We thanked him and paid him approximately $4.00 USD for fare and tip.

We walked through a vacant lot type area towards the building.  When we got just about to the building there was a sign indicating the way to the museum.  We were also joined by a local man who appeared to be a guide.  He lead us through a maze of alleys to the museum.  I gave him $1.33 USD (40 Baht) for his "help".  To be honest I believe that we could have managed to find the museum on our own with the signs that were posted or by asking the many people along the way.  But it was reassuring to have a personal "guide".

Sometimes I get the impression that the concept of travel as put forth by many guidebooks and held by many tourists is to visit exotic places within a protective bubble as best can be maintained of your own culture.  There seems to be an emphasis on the "places" and not the "people" that you will encounter along your travels.  Because you have read some of these blogs you are mostly aware that Duang and I do not travel in that many.  Although we love exotic locations it is the opportunity to experience different cultures; to be able to interact with people outside of our comfort zone that is our passion.

Duang On the "Road" (alley?, path? street/) to the Royal Barge Museum

The guidebooks and websites failed to mention  that in avoiding taking the land route to the museum, you prevented glimpsing and experience a little of what life along or rather life on Rimkhlong Bangkok Noi (Little Bangkok Side Canal) is like.  The narrow alleys are bordered by wood or cinder block homes built on stilts.  In many places you could look directly into the homes to see the people working inside their homes.  Some of the homes were built over land and you could see chickens or other birds being raised by the family.  There was all kinds of vegetation growing high above the homes.  You could smell the scents of life along an urban waterway.  You came upon small groups of local residents socializing, working, or marketing goods to their neighbors.  This was a neighborhood where a car, or tuk-tuk had never been.  People walked along these alleys and either rode motorbikes or bicycles to come and go.

In about 5 minutes we arrived at the museum.  Entrance fee for me was about $0.30 USD and because Duang is a Thai citizen - free for her.  Since I intended to take still pictures - I had to pay a 100 Baht camera fee ($3.00 USD).  I have read where the author of a blog suggested that only one person in a group pay the fee and take the photos for everyone in the group.  Please - give me a break!  Objecting and whining about $3.00 to take photos seems to be way too frugal to be polite especially after paying $0.30 to enter.  That is definitely a group that I would not want to be part of.




Barges On Display

 The museum was great.  There are actually 52 barges that take part in the infrequent Royal Barge Processions.  Typically 8 barges are on display in dry dock at the Royal Barge National Museum.  Of the eight barges on display, there are four Royal Barges.  The four Royal barges are:  Suphannahong, Anantanakkharat, Anekkachatphuchong, and Narai Song Suban HM Rama IX.  However on the day that we visited there were seven.  The newest Royal Barge, Narai Song Suban HM Rama IX was being worked on at the nearby Navy Yard.  However there was a bonus, in my opinion, one of the barges was being reconstructed!

The Asura Vayuphak Under Reconstruction - 2.03M wide, 31M long, 0.62M deep

An Asura Class Barge, the Asura Vayuphak , last restored in 1982 was under reconstruction by workers employed by a  private company.  I was told that only the Navy worked on any of the four Royal Barges. This explained why the Narai Song Suban HM Rama IX built in 1996 was not being worked on at the museum.   I spent a great deal of time observing and photographing the reconstruction work.  The work reminded me of the work by shipwrights past and present at the Mystic Seaport Maritime Museum near the town where I was born and raised back in Connecticut.  I found it extremely interesting.

A Thai Shipwright At Work

I scrambled about the dock and even ventured out onto the scaffolding planks to get better views and different photographic perspectives of the restoration work.  The workers did not mind and actually seemed a little amused at my efforts.  They were accustomed to the typical visitor spending 10 to 15 minutes at the museum before moving on to the next stop of their tour.  The naval representative did not like me sitting on the scaffold plank over the water and politely informed me that it was not allowed.  He was a good guy and apparently did not hold a grudge.  Later when I returned to the boat to take more photographs, he moved out of the way at his guard station so that I could get a different perspective.

Placing A New Board In Position



Drilling Ribs In Preparation For A New Plank

 In addition to the static displays there are four videos that are shown to visitors of the museums.  They are extremely interesting and worth watching.  Again, most visitors if they even watch will view only one of the videos.

The barges are like works of art.  They are intricately carved and are decorated with colorful paint and colored glass.  The level of detail and mastery is breathtaking.

My favorite Royal Barge was Suphannahong also called Suphannahongse (Golden Swan).  The Suphannahong carries the King of Thailand and other members of the Thai Royal Family.  It is a very graceful boat - carved from a single teak tree and completed in 1911.  The boat is 46.15 meters long, 3.17 meters wide, and .41 meters deep.  It is propelled by 50 oarsmen.  In addition to the Royal passengers and oarsmen it also carries 2 steersmen, 1 chanter, 4 officers, a signalman, a standard bearer, and 7 Royal Standard Bearers.

Close Up Detail of Suphannahong, "Golden Swan"

The boat is intricately carved, painted gold and accented with colored glass.  It is very impressive.

Prow of Royal Barge "Anantanakkharat"

Prow of Royal Barge "Anekkachatphuchong"

Bow of Krut Class Barge - "Krut Hern Het"

The figureheads of the barges are depictions of mythological creatures from the Thai epic "The Ramakian".  Garudas, Nagas, Hongsa, Hanuman are intricately carved and decorated with colorful paint giving each vessel a unique identity.

Figurehead of "Asura Vayuphak"

After two hours, Duang and I exited the museum and stopped at the little as in three table restaurant on the other side of the alley.  Some naval officers were enjoying their lunch while the restaurant owner's young child half way played and slept close by.  Duang and I each enjoyed a soft drink and interacted with the people before setting off along the alleys back to the main road to catch a taxi back to the center of the city.

We had enjoyed our visit to the museum and the opportunity to glimpse at some aspects of life on, over, and along a river canal.

Comprehensive Immigration Reform? - Part 2

Duang Wearing Traditional Lao Loum Pakama On Her Head

My first installment of this series was written on July 20th of this year.  I actually wrote this Part 2 of the series a while ago (July 23rd) but a complete night's efforts was lost due to an Internet issue.  I wrote about being frustrated and sulking over the experience.  Well I am over the sulking , much has happened since then, and nothing has happened since then.

Nothing has happened?  In my first blog I rhetorically asked several questions regarding "Comprehensive Immigration Reform".  The first question, and perhaps the most important question of the lot was "What is Comprehensive Immigration Reform?"

Politicians, perhaps due to the lazy and hazy days of summer recess, have yet to elucidate their individual definition of Comprehensive Immigration Reform.  However it does appear that the nation is united and in agreement that 1.  We need "Comprehensive Immigration Reform" and 2.  I am in favor of "Comprehensive Immigration Reform".  Very difficult to disagree with either of those statements - as long as no one starts to be specific or even hint at any specifics regarding those statements.

The American media seems to have moved on to other issues but the problem along with causes as reported earlier in the year remain unchanged.  The media's as well as the public's short attention plan have moved on to other distractions for the time being.  Perhaps now that we are in the campaign period for the mid term elections this issue will be resurrected and rightfully so.

I am writing regarding our personal experience regarding legal immigration using the current process as it exists today.  Only in developing some understanding of the current process can we identify and have a reference up on which to develop viable alternatives and modifications to address weaknesses or deficiencies.

Whereas nothing seems to have happened in regards to defining what "Comprehensive Immigration Reform" means, many things have happened related to our personal quest for an Immigration Visa.

On Thursday 22 July, we commenced the formal process of applying for an Immigration Visa to allow my wife to go to the United States. As I wrote in a previous blog, my wife is qualified to receive an Immigrant Visa. The process starts with me submitting a petition, Form I-130 "Petition for Alien Relative", to the U. S. Citizenship and Immigration Services of the Department of Homeland Security.


Because I live outside of the United States my petition and the processing of the visa will be handled in Thailand rather than being handled through the mail to one of the regional centers back in the USA. If I were living back in the USA with my wife over here in Thailand or if I had only been staying here in Thailand for less than a year, the process could only be handled through a USA regional center.

On July 6, I started our effort to obtain an Immigrant Visa for my wife.  I had done some research on the Internet utilizing the US Embassy Bangkok, United States Department of State, and the Department of Homeland Security websites.  I became convinced that we qualified and should apply for a K-3 Visa.  A K-3 visa is a special visa that allows a qualified applicant to immigrate to the United States while their complete application for an Immigration Visa is being processed.  The stated process for obtaining a K-3 Visa is to first submit in person a petition, Form I-130 "Petition for Alien Relative", to the U. S. Citizenship and Immigration Services of the Department of Homeland Security.  There is a USCIS Office in Bangkok so we would have to travel to Bangkok, one hour by air or 8.5 hours by bus, in order to personally submit the Form I-130 along with its required documentation.

After the Department of Homeland Security received the I-130 package they would send me a "Notice of Action" Form 797 indicating that USCIS had received the petition.  Once I had the "Notice of Action" I could then submit to USCIS another petition, Form I-129F "Petition for Alien Fiance(e)", along with its associated documentation to the same USCIS office in Bangkok.  Fiance(e)?  A fiance(e) petition for my legal wife?  I don't make the rules.  I just try to follow the rules in order to obtain what I want.  Both websites stated specifically that the Form I-129F Petition was required even for legal spouses.
 
Not wanting to have to make an additional trip to Bangkok and wishing to expedite the process, I wanted to know if  I could go to Bangkok, submit the I-130 Petition, immediately receive the required Form 797 (a receipt notice), make a copy of the Form 797 and immediately submit the subsequent completed Form I-129F package.  This would essentially kill two birds with one stone and seemed to be very practical  as well as logical - practical and logical to me.  Having dealt with many bureaucracies over the years, I knew that what appeared  to be logical and practical to me and others, may not be allowed by "the rules" or "the way we do things".  I called the USCIS Office in Bangkok to see if I could submit both petitions on the same visit.
 
As I wrote before in a previous blog - things are not as simple or easy as you would expect or as they should be.  My phone call to USCIS was the start of my introduction or rather reinforcement to this truth in regards to Immigration.  The phone call to USCIS was answered by a Thai employee.  After explaining to her that I wanted to obtain a K-3 Visa as identified on both the USCISLesson #1 Learned or Affirmed - Things are not always what you read or are told.
 
She assured, but not necessarily convinced, me that I only needed to submit the Form I-130 and asked me for my Fax number because she had some additional requirements to send to me.  Fax number?  Do people other than those in third world countries still use fax machines?  I assumed that a large and important department of the United States of America government would have retired their fax machines long ago.  I asked her if she could send the information to me as an email attachment.  She informed me that she could only send it by fax.  Lesson #2 Learned or Affirmed - Things are not as simple or easy as they could be, should be, or as you expect.
 
In order to receive the USCIS information by fax, I would have to go into town and find an Internet cafe or copy business that had a fax machine, call the USCIS Office on my cellphone, give the USCIS representative the fax number and await the transmission of the information.  I then realized that my computer had a modem that was capable of sending as well as receiving fax transmissions although I had never done so to date.  After configuring my computer to function as a fax machine using Microsoft Windows, and calling the rep at USCIS in Bangkok to give her my land line phone number, I received one page of additional information.  Lesson #3 Learned or Affirmed - Where there is a will there will be a way.
 
The fax indicated that the $355 fee could be paid credit card Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Diners - this was a relief since I had been told "Visa" on the phone and I only have a Mastercard.  I did not want to pay in cash by Baht since I prefer to use baht only for Thai living expenses.  When I apply for Retirement Visa each year I must provide evidence of a Thai banking account with a specified baht balance for the previous three months.  The fax also required evidence that I had lived in Thailand for the past year whereas the websites did not specify a minimum time period to be able to have the visa application handled in Bangkok rather than back in the USA.  The fax also indicated that the office was closed on Wednesday afternoons - a fact that was not indicated on the Bangkok website.  Lesson #4 Learned or Affirmed - Things are not always what you read or are told.


I then proceeded to assembling the required documents to accompany the Form I-130 Petition.  Form I-130 and the USCIS fax requires the following documents:
 
     1.    Original completed Form I-130 Petition for Alien Relative
     2.    Original completed Form G-325A "Biographic Information" - Allen
     3.    Original completed Form G-325A "Biographic Information" - Duangchan
     4.    Recent Passport sized Photograph - Allen
     5.    Recent Passport sized Photograph - Duangchan
     6.    Original and Copy of Passport - Allen
     7.    Original and Copy of Passport - Duangchan
     8.    Copy of Divorce Decree - Allen/First Wife
     9.    Copy of Divorce Decree - Allen/Second Wife
    10.   Copy of Divorce Decree - Duangchan - Certified Translation in English
    11.   Copy of Wedding Certificate - Allen/Duangchan - Certified Translation in English
    12.   Birth Certificate - Allen
    13.   Birth Certificate - Duangchan - Certified Translation in English
    14.   Marriage Registration - Allen/Duangchan - Certified Translation in English
    15.   Certificate of Name Change - Duangchan - Certified Translation in English

There were also some generic requirements to provide documentation proving that we were in deed living as husband and wife.  To address these requirements we provided the following:

     16.   Affirmation of Marriage - Witness Statement by Duang's son
     17.   Affirmation of Marriage - Witness statement by Duang's son's girlfriend
     18.   Yellow House Book - Allen - Certified Translation in English
     19.   Blue House Book - Duangchan - Certified Translation in English
     20.   Pick Up Truck Title - Certified Translation in English
 
We encountered another obstacle to assembling the document package - Duangchan's Birth Certificate or rather her lack of a Birth Certificate .  When Duang was born in 1963 Thailand did not issue birth certificates.  When a family had a baby, the baby was added to the village records kept by the Village Headman.  When a child attained the age of 7, they would go the Amphur (County) Office with one of their parents and the Village Headman to have their name added to the Blue House Book and be added to the Amphur records rather than the Village records. The Blue House Book is a record of the Thai residents for each house.  Foreigners, like me, are listed in a Yellow House Book.  At 17 years old the child receives a Thai National ID Card.  ID cards are reissued due to name changes related to divorce or marriage.  Lacking name changes, the ID cards are reissued every ten years.  However, we had to submit a Thai Birth Certificate and not a Thai National ID Card for Petition I-130!  Our first stop was to Amphur Kumphawapi Offices to determine how we could obtain a "Birth Certificate".  Fortunately, Duang's situation was neither unique or rare.  Many Lao Loum women in Isaan have experienced the same problem in applying for visas to immigrate to foreign countries.  We were told that we needed to return with one of Duang's parents, the current Village Headman, a passport sized photograph, and Duang's parent's house Blue Book.  We returned the same day with the required people along with the necessary documents and left after a while with a brand new birth certificate.  One more obstacle removed and confirming that where there is a will there will be a way.
 
In order to get married in Thailand, we had to have some documents translated from English into Thai so we knew where to obtain certified translation service here in Udonthani.  Our documents were translated in 5 days and cost about $120 USD.
 
Rather than take a 8-1/2 hour bus ride from Udonthani to Bangkok, we decided to fly down to Bangkok.  Flying to Bangkok allowed us to spend one less night in Bangkok to accomplish our activities and was much less wear and tear on our bodies as well as minds.
 
We arrived at the USCIS Office across from American Consulate in Bangkok at 7:30 A.M. for the opening of the office at 8:00 A.M.  The Department of Homeland Security office is located at the top floor of a modern building.  From the elevator lobby at the top floor we walked to entrance of the USCIS office where we were greeted by the Thai security guard.  he indicated that we would have to wait in the elevator lobby but was kind enough to bring two plastic chairs for us to sit on while we waited.  During our 30 minute wait we saw two obvious Americans arrive and seemed to skulk into the office through a side door.  These were the only two Americans that we got to see and we never spoke to an American representative that morning.
 
 

 
At 8:00 A.M. the guard allowed us in.  After indicating why we were there, showing our passports, and signing in we passed through a metal detector and entered into a secured area at the end of a short corridor once the guard released the door lock from his station.  We found ourselves in an antechamber facing a wall that had several stations reminiscent of bank teller stations - heavy bullet proof glass with sliding metal drawers beneath them.  A large sign instructed us to approach a window, press the button once, return to our seat and await being summoned by a representative.  In about three minutes I was summoned and spoke to a female Thai employee - I suspect the same representative that I spoke to previously.  I told her what I was there for and handed her the assembled I-130 Package through the metal pass though drawer.  She leaved through the documents and verified that the package appeared to be complete.  She instructed me to return to my seat and wait for her to complete her review of the documents.  After awhile she called me back to the window and returned some of the documents to me with some highlights that she had placed on them.  I needed to fill out some additional information.  The I-130 Form had a place to write in the "Case Number".  we did not have a case number and I left it blank based upon my assumption that the USCIS would assign a case number at some point and add it to the petition.  I needed to indicate "NONE" per the Thai USCIS representative.  OK - no problem - I complied.  According to the instructions for the Form G-325A Biographic Information, I needed to fill out only those items of information that were not previously provided on the Form I-130 Petition.  The representative wanted me to fill out my current wife's name, my Social Security number and several other items that I had provided already on Form I-130.  OK - I added the duplicate information as she requested since it is like that old saying "It is my field, my ball, and my bat.  If you want to play baseball you play by my rules."  I didn't want to play baseball but I did want a visa for my wife as quickly as possible.  The Thai employee went back to the recesses of the dimly lit space behind the thick glass to continue her review of the package.  Once again she returned with some additional requirements.  Her requirements were obvious due to English being her second language.  The form required a petitioner to list the names of their children who would be immigrating to the USA.  My children are US citizens by birth.  Duang's children are too old to be considered for immigration on her petition.  Duang and I do not have any common children so I did not list any children.  The Thai employee wanted the names of all children listed.  Once again I reminded myself of why we were there and added whatever information that she considered necessary.  After a short while, she summoned me back to the window.  She gave me an invoice for the submittal of the petition - $355 USD.  She instructed me to cross Wireless Road to the US Consulate to pay the fee and return with the receipt for payment.  I complied and returned with the receipt.  She then informed us that we would be notified by mail in three weeks of the USCIS decision regarding the petition.  She told my wife that we had submitted the most complete and accurate petition that she had seen.  After one hour and fifteen minutes our business was completed.  I had budgeted a day and one-half for our business so besides being pleased I was relieved that it was concluded so quickly.  Lesson #5 Learned or Affirmed - Things are not always what you expect - sometimes they are better!



You may have noticed that I have made a point in identifying the USCIS employee as a Thai national.  I am not prejudiced - hey I married a Thai! I live staying here in Thailand!  However I am resentful that as an American citizen, when I have to deal with the US government in Bangkok I do not get to deal directly with an American but with a Thai citizen.  Lesson #5 Learned or Affirmed - Things are not always what you expect.
 
We were actually fortunate in having to deal with a real person directly with the submittal of the I-130 Petition.  When we left the Bangkok Office we knew that the I-130 Petition was complete and acceptable.  The only question that we had was if the petition would be approved.  If I had not stayed in Thailand for at least a year, the petition would have to have been submitted by mail back to the USA.  I suspect that differences in interpretation for providing an "acceptable" petition might also have occurred dealing with the regional office back in the USA but would have to have been resolved through the mail - 15 days or more transit time each way!  We got to that point in 1-1/2 hours rather than weeks or perhaps months.
 
I have gone into a great deal of detail on purpose.  I am attempting to share with you the exact process for immigrating legally to the USA under the currrent process.  I am attempting to accurately describe as well as to share the impediments encountered in following the current process.  As I close this part of our Odessy I need to remind the reader that because I am a citizen and we are formally as well as legally married, our process is a streamlined and expedited process not available to the vast majority of would be immigrants.

A Tale of Two Cities - Visa Quest

This blog is about a tale of two cities - not the London and Paris of Dicken's novel but rather a tale involving Bangkok, Thailand and Vientiane, Lao People's Democratic Republic. Although I have been mad as the dickens, this tale does not involve a revolution or even violence. The subtitle, "Visa Quest" , has nothing to do with the similarly named 1985 film "Vision Quest" starring Matthew Modine as a coming of age high school wrestler although my tale of two cities does involve wrestling - wrestling with the United States bureaucracy.

Almost a year ago to today's date this tale begins. My wife, Duang, and I took a 8.5 hour bus trip to Bangkok and spent the night in a hotel the day before Duang's scheduled morning appointment at the American Consulate. The purpose of her appointment was to be interview in regards to her application for a B-2 Tourist visa to visit the United States.

I had reviewed the US Consulate's website, the US State Department's website, and the application form along with associated instructions. Based upon the information from all three sources, I prepared her application and associated documentation. We paid the required $131 fee here at the Thai Post Office and brought the receipt with us to Bangkok. We also had to pay a $10 fee in order to make an appointment over the Internet - the only method allowed for making an appointment at the Consulate in Bangkok. Prior to leaving our hotel for the short walk to the Consulate, I double checked the document package to ensure that it was complete.

To obtain a Tourist visa to the United States an applicant must provide documentation and convince an interviewer that they have close ties to their home country and that they would return to the homeland at the conclusion of their visit to the USA. Typical documents that are anticipated to be submitted during the interview include bank records, employment records, home ownership, and motor vehicle registrations. Duang does not work but she does own two homes here in Thailand. Her document package included our marriage certificate, a Thai passport with her last name as "Hale", a Thai National ID card with the last name as "Hale", photographs of our home, photographs of our wedding, some photographs of her grandchildren as well as extended family here in Thailand, a copy of our 2008 joint US Federal Income Tax Return.

We arrived at the appropriate time for her interview. I knew that I could not accompany her to the interview - that is made very clear on the Internet websites. I was familiar with the layout inside of the Consulate and had concerns about Duang finding the correct location to submit the documents and purchase an envelope for her passport to be returned to her by mail if she was granted a visa. From previous personal visits to the Consulate, I knew that I could enter into the Consulate without appointment for "American Citizen Services" which was a short walk from where Thai citizens go to be processed for visas. I had what I thought was a bright idea to accompany Duang inside on my way to "American Citizen Services", point out where she needed to go, and finish my business before waiting for her outside of the Consulate. I was stopped at the Security Counter by the hired Thai staff. They asked me why was I there. "I replied that I was going to "American Citizen Services" to have additional pages inserted in my passport. The Thai woman thumbed through my passport and told me that I had enough pages in my passport and instructed me to leave the Consulate. I was not angry and figured that I had given it a good shot. However, I must admit that I was a little miffed at a foreigner telling me, an American citizen as well as taxpayer, that I had enough empty pages in my American passport and denying me access to American Citizen Service. However with the Thai Security Officers around the area and with my wife needing to get to her interview, I dutifully obeyed and left the Consulate. I waited outside on the public sidewalk until I and the other people waiting with me were ordered by Thai Security people to wait across the 6 lane divided road that runs in front of the Consulate.

After two hours, Duang and I were reunited. I asked her if she had been approved. She said that she had not been approved because her documents were incomplete. The interviewer had asked her about my passport, my banking records, and documents related to my previous employment in Thailand - all documents not listed on the websites or application form. I knew that the decision could and would not be reversed but I was confused as to the specific details for her application being rejected. I took her hand and reentered the Consulate entry foyer. I introduced myself to the Thai Receptionist. I explained that my wife was asked for my passport and since it was not listed and I was not allowed to accompany her, she did not have it. I showed my passport to her and stated that I was available to answer any and all questions related to me. I requested to speak to an American official regarding the matter. She proceeded to tell me that their procedures would not allow for that to happen. I reasserted to her that I was an American citizen and I wanted to speak with an American official about the specific documents that were lacking or would be required. After some discussion back and forth, she brought another representative over to speak with me. This representative, another Thai national, with the official name tag of "American Consulate Greeter" instantly reminded me of the Walmart Greeters that you find back in the USA. This person, although very pleasant, was also just as useless as the Walmart Greeters. This did nothing to satisfy my request now evolving into a quasi demand to speak with an AMERICAN OFFICIAL. She continued to quote the procedure to me and indicated that we could reapply ($131 + $10 + transportation and lodging at any time). I pointed out that we, or more specifically I, did not want to go through all the expense and time to only find out that at some future time to have the application rejected because we were lacking "a note from my Mother, a note from the Parrish Priest, a letter from a Rabbi or the Pope or perhaps a note from President Obama" (my words exactly). She reaffirmed that she was sorry to which I replied that I knew that she was not sorry about the rejection but was sorry that I was standing before her giving her a hard time. In the corner of my eye I could see that the Thai security personnel were looking uncomfortable. Looking further down the corridor in a separate room with glass windows, I saw some obvious American security people in civilian clothing looking interested in what was transpiring between me and the "Greeter". Not wishing to push my luck or try my patience any further, we left the Consulate. The "Greeters" parting gift was a piece of paper with an email address that I could write to about the situation.

After our 8.5 hour bus trip back to our home, I wrote an email to the email address explaining the situation as well as requesting specific reasons for the rejection and a list of other documents required to prevent a recurrence. In my mind I knew what slippery slope that I was embarking upon but I forged ahead. My email was quickly responded to from the Consulate stating that they get so many emails that they can not respond to them without additional information. I was instructed to resend the email with certain specific words in the subject line. There were three different options for words to add to the subject line depending upon the actual situation (Think in terms of automated answering machines when you call a large company with a choice of numbers to select - all of which do not define your situation or need). I selected the word choice that most closely matched our situation. Again I received another prompt reply which did not address my specific requests but in a form letter type response reiterated the policy roughly "The burden is on the applicant to show evidence and convince the interviewer that they will leave the United States" I was very irate. After talking or rather raging to an old friend back in America, taking his advice, and realizing that my wife really wanted to meet my family back in the USA, I decided to reapply once again and provide all the documents that had been asked for but not listed. I paid another $10 to be able to make another appointment. I went on line to schedule another appointment only to discover that earliest available appointment was three months later in September! That was the last straw. Our visa quest for 2009 was over. The tale of one city, Bangkok, was to continue in 2010.

Last week it became evident that I needed to return to the United States to tend to family business on an emergency basis. I wanted my wife to accompany me since the trip would be a month or longer in duration. I researched the Bangkok Consulate website as well as the State Dept website about obtaining a visa for Duang on an emergency or compassionate basis. The best that I could determine was that we would have to apply per the procedure, arrange for an interview, and once we had an interview scheduled request an expedited early appointment to supersede the scheduled appointment. If we did not hear from the Consulate in 5 days regarding our request for an expedited appointment it would mean that our request was denied. This did not exactly meet our needs, so I found the direct line phone number for the Visa section of the Bangkok Consulate. I called the number but could not get a connection. Undeterred, and I should have realized by then - foolishly, I found the phone number of the Consulate and called them. My call was answered by a Thai employee. I explained our situation. She replied that I needed to contact the Visa section. I explained that I had called the listed number and she said that they do not answer the phone and that I had to contact the Visa Section by email. Continuing my unjustified confidence in the Bangkok Consulate, once again I foolishly followed the Consulate's instructions and sent an email. My email response was quickly replied to by the same notification to resend with the multiple choice of words to add to the subject line that I had received before. Once again none of the choices actually defined my situation or needs. Only the gentle touch of my 15 month old grandson on my leg as he came over to stand by me, prevented me from doing damage to my computer or to myself. However because he doesn't speak Thai or Lao yet let alone English, his presence did nothing to stop me from loudly and colorfully expressing my opinion of the US government.
It then occurred to me to look into how the US Consulate in Laos might be able to help us.

Now begins the tale of the second city - Vientiane, Laos. I called the US Consulate in Vientiane. The phone was answered by a Lao national. I asked if we could apply for a B-2 Visa for a Thai citizen in Laos. They enthusiastically replied that we could. I asked a couple of specific questions and the person indicated that I needed to speak with her supervisor who she put on the line. She answered my questions but when I asked a question that was perhaps too technical indicated that she was not in the Visa section but if I liked she would transfer me to the Visa Section. I was transferred to the Visa section and had my question answered. I then filled out the new electronic form for requesting a visa. After submitting the form electronically, I needed to make an appointment for Duang to have an interview. I clicked on a link to make an appointment. There was no need to pay $10 to make an appointment however the website indicated that interviews were only conducted on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Since it was Monday, my best hope would be to have an appointment on Thursday. I continued the process and to my shock and amazement, there were appointments available for Tuesday - the next day. Any need or process to get an "Expedited Appointment" evaporated.

Today Duang and I went into Laos early in the morning to be at the US Consulate for her 10:00 A.M. appointment. Around 11:00 A. M. Duang came out of the Consulate and informed me that she had been denied a visa once again. In response to my questions, she indicated that the man did not look at any of the documents in her briefcase. He told her that she did not need a visa to go to America and that the man told her that we needed to send papers about our marriage to America to be reviewed as well as approved. This was very confusing and did not make sense to me. Duang and I spoke and agreed to go into the Consulate to find out what was going on. It seemed to me that the Interviewer had mistakenly interpreted Duang's request for a B-2 Tourist Non-Immigrant visa to be a request for an Immigrant Visa. We entered the Security Foyer and explained to the Lao security officer our issue. She indicated that we could come back at 1:00 P.M. after lunch to pursue the matter. We went to our own lunch, returned, and waited to reenter the Consulate. At 1:00 P.M. we were allowed in, explained our situation, cleared through security, and allowed into the American Citizens Services area. Duang and I explained our issue with the Lao national behind the window. Duang did not know the Interviewer's name but remembered which line number he handled. We were told to wait, and that upon his return from lunch, he would speak to us. After awhile we were instructed to go to the applicable line number. We were greeted by an AMERICAN official. I explained the situation and indicated that I thought that there had been a misunderstanding. He very politely and professionally explained what had happened.

First of all, US policy is that they assume all tourist visa applicants will not leave the USA. It is then up to the applicant to prove and convince the Interviewer that they will leave the United States. This is sort of like saying you are guilty until you can prove that you are innocent. OK, it is their game and we have to play by their rules. Not exactly supporting the pretty words of welcoming foreign visitors and how their visits culturally enrich America and develop bonds between nations and peoples. At least now, the rules are being clearly defined.

Secondly, being married to an American citizen does not really help get an applicant approved. Each applicant must be evaluated on their own merits - i.e. income, savings, home ownership, employment. The fact that the American spouse will be paying the bills, has the economic resources and has strong ties to a country outside of the USA is not a consideration. From the official I got the very distinct impression that a spouse with no job and no savings stands very little chance of being approved. In fact Duang had told me that of the 55 people (55 x $131) interviewed that morning -2, two, deux, dois, song ... people had been granted visas,

Lastly the Officer recommended that since we were married we should apply for Immigrant Visa even if we did not plan on living in the USA. We could maintain the Immigrant Visa by visiting the USA once a year. Duang had reported back correctly but just not completely. The paperwork for Immigrant Visa is submitted to the USA for review and approval. Once the Immigrant Status visa is granted, tourist visas are not required for travel to the USA.

At last, we had and explanation. At last we had spoken to an AMERICAN official.

I recounted to him our experiences in Bangkok and expressed gratitude to him for explaining the reality of the process as well as his recommendation. I pointed out that although I did not like the decision, I understood, and I could accept the situation. As I used to tell people who worked for me in the past "I may not like the truth, but I can handle the truth." So it was today. I suggested to the Official not as a criticism but as an improvement, that the websites be rewritten to more clearly indicate that if the applicant does not have a job, does not have money in the bank - they are going to waste their money applying for a Tourist Visa even if their spouse is an US citizen.

We know of some people who applied 5 times (5 x $131) to get a B-2 Tourist Visa. At her last interview in Bangkok, Duang witnessed a Thai woman yelling at the US Consulate employees where they could go and what they could do to themselves after being rejected for a third time. This is undoubtedly good for the image of the United States. This creates a great deal of anger. Duang and I are not alone in this situation and predicament. It had cost us $413 plus travel expenses to determine that applying for a Tourist Visa is a waste of time and money for our particular set of circumstances and conditions.

According to US State Dept statistics in each of the past 3 years 72% of Lao applications for Tourist Visas have been rejected. In terms of sheer numbers for 2009 1,173,505 applications for tourist visa were rejected, in 2008 1,248,865 were rejected and in 2007 1,204,294 were rejected worldwide. Approximately 26 to 28% of all Tourist visa applications are rejected each year. Some rich countries have rejection rates around 4 to 6% whereas poor countries like Laos are around 72%.

It appears that the US government is more concerned about perceptions than they are in communicating reality ergo the truth. In my opinion the image of the United States as well as its esteem would be better served in dissuading certain peoples from applying for Tourist Visas than encouraging people to spend their money initially and more importantly additional times fostering the illusion that they have a good probability of obtaining a Tourist Visa.

As I have written many times before regarding life here in Southeast Asia - "Things are not always what they appear to be" This statement is not limited to just Southeast Asia.

The same is true of the statement "Things are not always what you expect them to be"

So ends the Tale of Two Cities. So ends Visa Quest.

Ramakian Murals

Wat Phra Kaeo, part of the Grand Palace in Bangkok, is also commonly referred to by many non-Thais as the "Wat of the Emerald Buddha". Wat Phra Kaeo is the home of the relic that was brought from Laos to Thailand in 1779. The Emerald Buddha had originally been located in Northern Thailand commencing in the early 1400s and was attributed to miracles where ever it was kept. Perhaps for that reason, it was taken to Laos for 200 years until King Rama I seized Vientiane and returned it to the new Thai capital city, Bangkok. Besides being famous and revered for the Emerald Buddha, Wat Phra Kaeo is also renown for the Ramakian Murals.

The Ramakian is the Thai version of the Hindu epic poem "The Ramayana" which is based upon Hindu mythology. The Hindu epic poem was written over 2,000 years ago. Like other epic poems such as Homer's "Iliad" and ""Odyssey", "Aeneid" by Virgil, "Paradise Lost" by Milton, "The Ramayana" is a long narrative poem that contains a central hero that embodies a society's values. There are episodes that are important to the history and development of a country or race. Like the aforementioned epics, "The Ramayana" also contains Divine intervention in the lives of humans.

In "The Ramayana" the story of Prince Rama of Ayodha. His wife is kidnapped by a demon king - King Rakshasa of Lanka. Much of the epic is related to the struggles and adventures of Prince Rama to regain his wife and to deal with King Rakshasa. The story is about the triumph of good over evil along the conflicts of duty as well as moral obligations

There were written versions of the epic prior to King Rama I of Thailand but they were destroyed when the previous capital of Siam, Ayutthaya was sacked and burned by the Burmese in 1767. The story in "The Ramakian" is the same as in "The Ramayana" but names, locations, weapons and descriptions are adjusted to take into account Thai realities.

King Rama I, who is recognized as the founder of the modern Thai state was also an accomplished poet. As the new palace was being constructed in Bangkok in the style of the previous palace in Ayutthaya, he also supervised the writing of the "Ramakian". He actually wrote some of the episodes himself. As the palace was being constructed and the Thai version of the epic was being written down, 178 murals at Wat Phra Kaeo were also started. The purpose of the murals were to help communicate to people the virtues exemplified in the epic.

"The Ramakian" has a very strong influence on Thai literature, dance, art, and drama. It is considered to be a Thai masterpiece and is read, and taught in Thai schools.

26 December 2008, Cultural Divides

Cultural Divides
Saturday 27 December 2008

Christmas for everyone is now over.

I hope that the holiday was satisfying for everyone. Our Christmas ended up being very different from what we had originally planned.

I decided to go to Bangkok to take care or some legal matters at the US Embassy. My appointment was set for 24 December at 08:45 AM. Rather than taking the overnight bus from Udonthani to Bangkok and arriving in Bangkok at 07:30 AM and then taking a cab to the Embassy, I decided to leave Udon on the morning before. That would give us Christmas Eve in Bangkok.

The hotel that we stay at is located one door down from the US Ambassador's residence and about two blocks fom the Embassy. It is very nice and through the Internet, we got a $160 a night serviced apartment for $62 a night including breakfast. The hotel is also located very close to a BTS Skyway station and is within walking distance to the Suan Lum Night Bazaar.
This blog is about cultural divides in addition it is about how Christmas is celebrated in a Buddhist country. Some of the differences started to show up on our December 23rd bus ride to Bangkok.

We left Udonthani at 08:00 aboard the Chantour's VIP bus. The cost aborad the VIP bus is about $13 USD each one way for the 8 hour trip including snacks. The VIP buses are a little more roomier than standard buses, are comfortable enough to sleep on, and most importantly - complete the trip 2 hours quicker than the standard bus. We now that to be true from painful and bitter experience! One time we took the first available bus - a standard bus. It was a mistake that will never be repeated. It seemed like the bus slowed down or stopped for any and all groups of people that happened to be standing along the road - a very long road.

As happened on a previous VIP bus trip to Bangkok, we had uniformed hostesses onboard. Their uniforms are a sort of 1960's retro airline stewardess ensemble complete with cap. What separates Thailand today from the airlines of 1960 or America is the fact that one of the "stewardesses" was a Katoehy (Lady Boy). Some Katoehys in Thailand are very attractive and in Pattaya there is a Beauty Pageant modeled after Miss Universe for Ladyboys. Our stewardess was more typical of American transvestites - she was not fooling anyone!

Many years ago on a BART train in the San Francisco Bay Area on an early Sunday morning, my family and me ended up sitting behind a couple of late Saturday night transvestite party goers. One of them was talking in a very affective and dramatic way. My son, who was five years old at the time, asked in a loud voice that everyone onboard could hear or at least we believed they could "Mommy. Mommy, I don't understand. HE looks like a man but talks like a woman". My wife was all embarrassed and said that he would understand later. I just laughed. I felt that if they couldn't fool a five year old they were the ones who could be embarrassed. Our stewardess despite her chic hot pink outfit was not fooling anyone.

Lady boys seem to be everywhere in Thailand. They have their own subculture. I have even seen them in the isolated farming villages such as Tahsang Village as well as in the metropolitan areas where you would expect to see them. I have not done a count but it appears to me that about 6% of Thai males are Lady Boys.

The lady Boy culture is very apparent. Many cosmetic counters are staffed with lady boys. Some Go-Go bars have Lady Boy dancers alongside the female dancers. Sometimes the only tip off as to who is who is the size of their breasts. Lady Boys have the bigger breasts! At Mahlam Lao shows there is always a contingent of Lady Boys up front strutting and dancing to the music. The Mahlam Lao shows always have comedy skits involving Lady Boys. The skits involving the Lady Boy characters are reminiscent of the old and now ill reputed minstrel or Amos and Andy shows in the USA. I would not go so far as to say that Lady Boys are universally accepted but they are definitely tolerated. It appears that the price for being tolerated is to be laughed at. The Lady Boys seem to relish the attention even if it is laughing and the attention seems to only encourage more outrageous behavior on their part. Our "stewardess" was not outrageous and was actually very professional although not attractive in the least bit.

After checking into our room we walked down to the Suan Lum Night Bazaar. The night bazaar is one of Bangkok's big tourist attractions. I have been there several times in the past three years. Typically I do not last long there because of the crowed narrow aisles. This time it was different - very different. There was hardly anyone there. I could not believe how few tourists there were. I had read that hotel vacancy rate for the Christmas Holiday is typically around 60 to 70%. This year the occupancy rate is around 30%. This is due to the Thai political unrest and world economic situation no doubt. There are some reports of tourism being down 50% this year.

After dinner and purchasing some DVDs, we went to the Lumphini Boxing Stadium to watch Muay Thai boxing matches. We walked up to the ticket counter and I showed my Thai driver's license. In Thailand there are usually two prices for things - a price for Thais, and a higher price for "falang" foreigners. There is a pervading attitude that foreigners are rich and will be only here for a short time there the Thais need to get as much of their money as possible. Some foreigners find this to be insulting and get upset about it. The truth of the matter is that in general we are not talking about a great deal of money from a foreigner's standpoint. Foreigners pay more (about $3.00 USD) than Thais to visit museums. However Thais make much less money than the visiting foreigners. Many Thais earn less than $200 a month. Even professional Thais such as engineers earn less than one-half of an American in Thailand. Sometimes showing my Thai driver's license gets me in for the Thai price. Many times Duang will buy things with me out of sight so that we get the Thai price.

The quoted price for the boxing matches was 2,000 Baht for me and 880 baht for Duang. After some discussion we walked away - not angry but not willing to take the deal they offered. Soon I heard them calling after us and walking up to us with a new deal - 1,600 baht for me and Duang for free. We took that deal.

Lumphini Boxing Stadium is one of the Meccas of Muay Thai boxing. The foreigners who pay 2,000 baht or 1,600 baht have ringside seats. We ended up in the third row from the ring. The Thais sit in the cheaper seats. At times the action is hot and heavy in the cheap seats.

Gambling is illegal in Thailand just like prostitution. However ... as a match goes on, the people in the cheap seats get extremely animated yelling. waving hands, looking foe each other in the crowd, sticking various numbers of fingers in the air, and making various nods of the head. After the match you can see money being exchanged. If I did not know that gambling was illegal, I would say that they were gambling. They could not have been gambling because it is illegal and the police who were watching it going on did nothing about it.

After the featured match, most of the foreigners left and returned to their tour buses. Duang and I at the invitation of the usher went up to the first row. The last match ended up being the best match not necessarily due to the skills or ferocity of the combatants but the theater surrounding the match.

Muay Thai is a young man's sport. You will not find a 40 year old Muay Thai boxer competing. The boxers start their careers around age 8, reach their prime around 19, and retire around 25 years old. The last match involved two fighters about 14 or 15 years old.

To our right was a section reserved for the Press. With this being Thailand and late in the event, the section was just about empty save for an elderly man who seemed to be a sponsor, a middle aged man who appeared to be the father of one of the fighters, and a little boy 2 to 2.5 years old that was definitely the younger brother of one of the fighters. This little guy in a plaid short sleeve shirt and long pants was woth the price of admission.

As the fight progressed the little boy was yelling to the fighter who was his brother and slapping the ring with his hands just like the trainer andother handlers to his right. The little boy was completely focused and involved in the match.

During the break between rounds when there is a flurry of activity in the fighter's corner, the little boy would go up to the ring corner and try to give his advise and instructions to the fighter. When he was ignored, he went to his father or another adult and told them what he wanted them to tell his brother. he was very determined and it was obvious that he was convinced that he knew what he was doing - very much Burgess Meredith's character in the "Rocky" movies only much younger as well as much better looking.

The bout consists of five rounds. The combination od fatigue, lower skill level, and wetness from previous matches created several "knockdowns". When his brother fell down three times, the little boy would get all excited. He would make a face of disbelief, yell "Meiow! Meiow! (No, No)", and wave his hands from side to side to communicate to the referee and judges that it was not a real "knockdown".

When his brother was doing well, the little guy would yell up to him advise on how to finish off his opponent. The little guy demonstrated, as only a two year old can, a flurry of left, right combinations finishing off with a right elbow. He did this innumeral times. Duang and I just watched and laughed. It was great and very entertaining. I decided to help the little boy out. I pantomimed a series of left right combinations punctuated with a right and left elbow combination to the little guy. He saw me and showed me his two year old's combinations with a single elbow. I repeated my combination with two elbows and indicated that his brother should do that. With a twinkle in his eye, and a broad smile, he repeated my combinations and finished it with a big thumbs up gesture. He then tried several times to communicate it to his brother.

His brother won the match. As they headed for the locker room and we were leaving the stadium, I shook the little boy's hand and told him that he did a very good job. It was a very entertaining night.

The next day, Christmas Eve, I went to the US Embassy to handle my business. It took all of seven minutes and cost $50 USD. I had two one paged forms that I needed to be notarized. Seven minutes and it cost fifty dollars - a pretty good business for the US government. As an American citizen living overseas, I would have expected that me taking an oath, having a minor clerk sign and stamp the documents for a total of seven minutes would be for free. I then had to have the documents translated into Thai and recorded with the Thai authorities. As I exited the US Embassy, I was approached by a young woman who asked if I needed something translated. I confirmed and she brought me to a local second floor office. The company translated documents and provided legal assistance. I knew that I had to take the translated documents to The Department of Consular Affairs. The Legalization Division required three days to review and stamp the documents. As we say "TIT (This Is Thailand). This company could get the documents returned in one day for additional "fee". The amount of additional "fee" was less than spending another minimum day or possible 4 days in Bangkok. I agreed and paid the additional fees. The completed documents were available as promised at 16:00 - money well spent. To me the interesting points are the business climate and opportunities available in Thailand. I have written about the freedom of Thais to set up sidewalk restaurants, set up booths or blankets to sell items, and the general encouragement of people's entrepreneurial talents. The use of touts on "Embassy Row" is a public service as well as creates jobs for people. I even appreciate the opportunity to obtain expedited services for additional "Fees". I did not have to accept it but I considered the opportunity to have value and chose it.

After completing my business, we went to a big shopping center in Siam Square. As we experienced throughout Bangkok on this trip, Christmas carols sung by little children filled the air. I never realized how irritating children singing could be! Luckily Christmas is only once a year.

The main purpose of going to this shopping center was to visit a spice shop. I had visited it before and knew that it had many things that I can not find in Udonthani. I have been very confused over the amount of spices and seasonings in our kitchen. I had bought several jars of spices in Vietnam and bought several more in the USA that I imported into Thailand. I have been unable to locate all of them. While in the spice shop I told Duang what I was looking for and why I was buying new ones - I could not find the old ones. Duang got a funny look over her face and apologized. When she had been setting up and cleaning the kitchen, she didn't understand the expiration date and had thrown them out. At least now I don't have to feel so guilty about having thrown away her pala (fermented fish) in September. I thought that it was some old rotting stuff and heaved it in the garbage. I didn't realize that it is the basis and foundation of Lao cuisine!

Christmas Eve evening we had a reunion with one of our friends. She had worked with me in Sriracha, got to know Duang and has always been supportive. She lives and works in Bangkok. Although she now claims to be a "City Girl" she has not forgotten her Isaan roots. She loves the pala that Duang's mother makes so Duang had a couple of containers to give her. We had her come up to our room to talk as well as to catch up on old and new news. Duang and she opened up the pala to appreciate it. Immediately the room was filled with the overpowering stench fermented fish. Smells have always affected me throughout my life. That night was no different. I started to feel queasy and headed to the bathroom. I fell to me knees before the toilet and heaved my guts into the bowl while my eyes filled with tears.

Duang and Prawnee after first overcoming their shock laughed like crazy. When I rejoined them, we opened up the door to the patio and continued our conversation on the patio. We then took a short walk and had dinner at a Chinese Restaurant.

Duang woke up Christmas morning to a surprise - Santa Claus had remembered her. He had come into the room during the night and filled her sock (small) and hung it over the TV since there was no fireplace. Part of the morning was spent explaining Santa Claus, Christmas, and Christmas gift giving. Interestingly the TV had some of the Christmas Eve Mass from the Vatican. Many parts of the ritual, such as chanting, incense, statues, and blessings are similar to Buddhist rituals so it made explanations easier to understand. An interesting Christmas morning memory.

We took public transit to the Shangri-La Hotel for sightseeing, and Christmas Brunch. Christmas is a mostly normal workday in Thailand. Western companies are closed but all the Thai companies remain open. Prior to Brunch we walked around the Bangrak Market. I found people that I had photographed two years ago - they remembered and wished us a Merry Christmas.

Brunch was along the banks of the river and was excellent. It was a special location and meal on a special day.

We returned to Udonthani the next day by bus - again with a Lady Boy hostess along with two or maybe three other Lady Boy passengers.

The holiday did not go as we originally planned but ended up being wonderful and memorable.

Cultural differences were identified, appreciated and bridged.