Khao Poon, Khao Pun - Where Does It Come From?

Worker Gathers Fresh Khao Poon to Place In A Tray for Market

Visitors to wet  markets in Southeast Asia can be assured of finding rice noodles artistically placed like skeins of yarn atop a layer of banana leaves in a woven bamboo tray.  My wife, an ethnic Lao from Thailand, calls the rice noodles "Khao Poon" ("Khao Pun"?).

Khao Poon resembles cooked pure white vermicelli much like No. 7 Spaghetti except for color.  The pure white of Khao Poon is due to it having rice rather than wheat and no eggs as ingredients.  Khao Poon is used in various soups and salads in Asian cuisine.

I have seen tons of Khao Poon for sale over six years in Thailand, Lao, Vietnam, Malaysia, and Cambodia.  I had never thought of where all those trays of soft wet noodles came from.  I guess that I had assumed that they came from the Khao Poon factory - some large industrial building where raw ingredients arrived at one end of the building by rail car, 18 wheel tractor trailer rig, or lorry.  Finished product would exit at the other end of the building by large trucks to distribution outlets and eventual to the local outlets. Undoubtedly my assumptions were based upon my experience and perspective as a long time resident of the United States.

When I was a young boy in the United States, I enjoyed a television program entitled "Industry On Parade".  The fifteen minute program ran from 1950 to 1960.  In addition to being on television, films of the programs were distributed to schools. Episodes showed how various products such as hot dogs, cars, steel, light bulbs were produced in America.  I honestly do not remember if there was an episode regarding rice noodles let alone Khao Poon.

I have maintained an interest in how things are made and done over the years - just ask the dentist doing my current root canal.

For our recent trip to Cambodia, one of my objectives was to take photographs of people; more specifically documenting the daily life of the people.  I had conveyed that objective and sent samples of the type of people photographs that I prefer to take to the tour company that I had selected for us.

On the third day of our stay in Siem Reap, we got up early to catch the sunrise at Pre Rup.  From Pre Rup we drove and toured Banteay Srei before heading to Banteay Samre.  We travelled along a country road bounded by rice fields, grazing lands, and small villages.  The rural scenery was dotted with many houses elevated on stilts with children as well as domesticated animals wandering about - great photo opportunities.  I mentioned to our guide that I would like to stop up somewhere up ahead to photograph some typical Cambodian homesteads.  He acknowledged my request and we continued on our way passing many locations.  We passed so many locations that I was considering reminding the guide of my wishes.  I held off, trusting not only that he was not only a man of his word but also was much more knowledgeable than me. After a while, the car slowed down and pulled off to the side of the road and stopped.

A Homestead Along the Road to Banteay Samre

We had stopped at one the typical homes along that country road. The home was a small structure raised above the ground with a corrugated metal roof.  The exterior walls were rough cut lumber and woven bamboo panels.  There was quite a bit of activity around the home - in the open air space next to the structure and underneath a roofed area in front of the home.

Disembarking from our vehicle, I immediately realized that my trust and patience with our guide had been vindicated.  The people were all busy making something.  This was  just what I was hoping for in my goal.  Duang realized immediately what was going on - the people were making Khao Poon, rice noodles.  We ending up spending one hour at the location.

Neighborhood Children Checking Things Out

With our arrival, more people, local children, arrived to investigate what was going on.  My wife and I do not object and are not embarrassed to be objects of curiosity by the local people of areas that we visit.  We consider it to be great opportunities to share, share bilaterally, with the people we encounter.  As much as there is to learn about others and their life, there is a great deal of ourselves and our life that we can share with them.

At this stop we were learn where Khao Poon comes from and how it is made. Here in Cambodia the rice noodles were not produced in some large industrial complex with heavy machinery.  The product was manufactured or rather crafted as part of a cottage industry.  The rice noodles were crafted by family members at their home.

Grinding Rice to Create A Slurry - the First Step

The first step in making Khao Poon is to produce a rice slurry.  The production of the rice slurry took place off to the side of the house.  No electricity was required in the production of the slurry required for this cottage industry in Cambodia. Rice kernels were fed by large spoon into a small grinder that was powered by hand utilizing a trapeze mechanism.

While seated on top of a low rustic platform, one woman fed rice into the mill along with the necessary amount of water, as another woman pushed a horizontal wood beam forward and backward.  The beam was suspended by two cords from a wood overhead frame.  At one end of the horizontal beam additional pieces of wood with a swivel joint at the end connected swing device to the mill.  The horizontal rocking motion of the second woman was mechanically translated into rotational movement of the top milestone of the rice grinder.  After 44 years, I was looking at the practical and ancient application of those mechanisms that we studied back in Machine Design class in college.  It was fascinating to see the mechanisms in action and appreciating them for what they could do rather than looking at colored diagrams on a sheet of paper.

A milky mixture of rice flour and water flowed by gravity from the rice mill into a recycled plastic bucket placed on the ground next to the low platform.  A piece of fine mesh plastic net, the type used to cover the ground when threshing rice, covered the top of the bucket to strain the slurry draining from the rice mill.

Buckets of the milky mixture are covered and set aside for one week to work.

The second step of the process that we witnessed involved "kneading" the thick and heavy balls of dough created from the one week of the milky mixture working.  Once again heavy electrical equipment was not utilized or necessary to further process the dough.  Heavy equipment, albeit basic mechanical mechanisms were necessary and utilized.

Kneading the Dough

At the edge of the property closest to the road, the dough was kneaded using a lever mechanism.  The dough was placed into a heavy stone mortar located on the ground underneath a heavy pestle created from a heavy log.  A woman in coordinated conjunction with the up and down motion of the log pestle kneaded and worked the dough.  To get the mixture to the required consistency, she would add water.  The up and down motion of the pestle was created by children and for a very short time a foreign tourist stepping down and off on the end of a heavy lever that the pestle was attached too.

Driving Mechanism for Kneading the Dough

After the dough was properly kneaded and at the required consistency, the large balls were relocated to a bench next to the covered work station.

Loading Up the Noodle Die

At the work table, the die for a primitive but very effective extrusion machine is loaded with dough.  The rice noodles are formed by an extrusion process - the same as spaghetti produced in large industrialized factories. However at this cottage industry, no electricity or hydraulic power was required to make the product.  In Cambodia, the power and wonder of the lever was once again employed.

The extrusion machine, a simple mechanical press, in Cambodia was basically like a huge wood nut cracker.  At the small end of the nut cracker there was a metal cylinder that was filled with the dough.  One end of the cylinder had a die - a metal disk with holes in it.  Dough forced through the cylinder and across the disk came out in long individual strings.  The dough was forced through the cylinder, and extruded from the die by a ram, solid tube only slightly smaller in diameter than the dough container.  The ram was forced (pressed) through the open end of the cylinder holding the dough by forcing down the long lever at the large end of the nut cracker. The combination of the cylinder and ram acted as the fulcrum for the lever.

People Operating the Primitive Press to Extrude Rice Noodles

All that was required to operate the press (extrusion machine) were people to sit on the end of the lever.  The weight of the people applied at the end of the long lever created sufficient force to drive the dough through the die and into the vat of boiling water beneath the press.

Rice Noodles Extruded Into Vat of Boiling Water

After cooking in boiling water over a wood fire, the rice noodles were removed and placed into a tub of water to stop the cooking process as well as to cool off for handling.

Finished Khao Poon Being Packaged

The tub of cooled noodles were then carried back to another low raised platform to be packaged.  Packaging consisted of removing the noodles from the tub, twisting them into skeins and placing them on top of banana leaves in a woven bamboo tray.

The people did not even need electricity for water.  In the front yard, there was a small diameter PVC pipe that came out of the ground. That pipe entered into more pipes that were at an angle to the ground.  A long sliding piece of PVC pipe was located inside of sloped pipe.  One of the men stroked the sliding pipe back and forth to pump underground water to the surface - water without electricity

We had spent an hour at the home and we wanted to show some appreciation to the people for allowing us to experience some of their life and for being so kind as well as patient with us.  Duang and I decided to buy some rice noodles that we would give to our guide and driver to take back to their homes.  We spoke with our guide to make it happen.  He determined that we could not buy any noodles.  It turned out that the family had contracts to middle men who sell to the vendors at the wet markets for a certain amount of noodles each day.  They did not have extra product to sell.  I ended up paying the woman a little bit of money for the children and to demonstrate our appreciation.

As we were leaving, one of the men ran up to our vehicle.  He had two cold coconuts from an ice chest next to the house.  He thanked us and apologized for only having two coconuts for us to drink.  We headed down the road for the next location of our itinerary - Duang and I enjoying one coconut, our driver and guide enjoying the other.

Our stop at this location had been extremely entertaining, instructive, and memorable.

We had learned something of rural life in Cambodia. I had a better understanding and appreciation for the mechanical principles, that have existed for thousands of years - principles that I was taught back in college. The same principles exist today and allow people to live off of the grid. I also once again was impressed at man's ability to survive and often thrive with few of the amenities of the world that I am so comfortable with.

The ability of the rural peoples of Southeast Asia to adapt and survive with so much less than I am accustomed to gives me comfort and inspires me.  They are proof that I can do with less.  They demonstrate how life can go on and go on happily in the world and not just in "Allen's World".

Our guide once again had done a great job - something that he did for entire trip.

Going Back In Time

Ta Phrohm - August 10, 2007

Ta Prohm - November 4, 2014

The decisively characteristic thing about this world is its transience. In this sense, centuries have no advantage over the present moment. Thus the continuity of transience cannot give any consolation; the fact that life blossoms among ruins proves not so much the tenacity of life as that of death.

— Franz Kafka
 

Ta Prohm - November 4, 2014

My wife and I recently returned to Siem Reap, Cambodia to once again tour the Khmer ruins and experience Tonle Sap once again.

We had  visited the area in August 2007, spending four exciting days at the ruins of Angkor Wat, other temple complexes and a short tour of Southeast Asia's largest fresh water lake, Tonle Sap.

Shortly after that trip, I watched a television documentary regarding the fishing culture on Tonle Sap and how it is reliant upon the annual flow of water into the lake from the Mekong River as well as the reverse flow of water from the lake into the Mekong each year at the end of the year.  I was very impressed with the documentary and realized that at some point I would like to return to document the fishing activities of the local people.

Over the ensuing years, I was able to watch and enjoy the video on the Internet.  However, I am no longer able to find the documentary on the Internet.  They say that once something is posted on the Internet, it is there forever.  If that is indeed true, I would have to add that although it is still there it may be extremely difficult to retrieve.  I am certain that part of the problem is due to my acquiring and retiring several computers over the approximate seven years, the impermanence of various websites, and a much more sensitivity to posting of copyrighted videos on the Internet.

Despite the inability to view the video over the entire past seven years, I maintained my interest and desire to return to Siem Reap, and more specifically Tonle Sap Lake.

During the past seven years I have acquired a new camera and developed better photographic skills.

I sincerely believe that many special places in this world require more than a single visit to better comprehend, better appreciate, and more fully experience them. I have practiced what I preach many times ... return trip(s) to Grand Canyon, Le Louvre, Paris, London, Foz do Iguacu, Machu Picchu. Yellowstone, Olympic National Park, Amsterdam, Grand Palace in Bangkok to name a few of my favorites.

When I was once asked why I was at Machu Picchu for a second time, I replied "I have a new camera and there are some specific photos that I missed the first time."

There is always a reason to be found to return to some places.

Our visit to Siem Reap was also an opportunity to witness and experience the area with a more educated and experienced perspective.  Having been there seven years earlier, we had a relatively recent baseline to evaluate the changes to the ruins.

The ruins are roughly one thousand years old - one thousand years of rains, winds, the constant force of gravity, the relentless drive of vegetation to establish itself over the land and perhaps most pernicious of all - one thousand years of human interaction.

Buddhism now once again reigns over the structures that originally were constructed to commemorate Hindu beliefs.  A majority of the temples were Hindu and modified to be Buddhist to then become Hindu and once again to be Buddhist.  Many of the ruins today reflect the awkward transitions between the religions.

The ruins also bear the scars of several wars - invasions as well as civil wars. The ruins were also neglected and "forgotten" or "lost" for many years.  During those years the ravages on the temples were from nature and gravity.  Today the ravages include a much greater participation by man.

The ruins are being loved to death.

Ta Prohm - August 2007

Ta Prohm - November 2014

Tourism to the Angkor Wat region has dramatically increased from 2006 when approximately 900,000 tourists visited. In 2013 the number of tourists was 2,063,000.  Tourism to the region increases approximately 18% each year and naturally they all typically end up touring the ruins.

The ruins are mainly constructed from sandstone.  Millions of footsteps each year on and across the sandstone blocks cause both erosion and stress on the blocks. The material eventually breaks down sooner than if just to natural forces. Just as wind and water can wear down rock, so can pedestrian traffic.

Millions of footsteps on the ground surrounding the ruins damages the roots of the trees.  Damaged roots lead to diseased trees which collapse and damage structures.  Compacted soil around the ruins affects the drainage of the area which affects the stability of the ground beneath the structures.

The international community for various reasons and motivations has sponsored and supervised the restoration of many of the temples.

Buddhism teaches that all things that are dependent upon something else or affected by something else is in flux, changing and not permanent but is impermanent.  The temples of Siem Reap are roughly a thousand years old - a very long time in human terms and perspective but they are far from permanent.

Many of the temples have strangler fig trees, sprung trees, and silk-cotton trees growing in them.  The roots of the trees grow over the tops of the structures, first starting in small crevices between the building blocks and as the roots increase in size - growing deeper and larger separating the building blocks and eventually contributing to the collapse of the structure - a process that ran pretty much from the fall of the Khmer Empire in the 15th century to the 20th century intervention by the Europeans.

The 21st century has ushered in accelerated efforts by nations such as The People's Republic of China, Republic of Korea, and India to "restore" and "save" the wonders of the region.

India sponsored and supervised the "restoration" of the famous "tree" temple, Ta Prohm.  Ta Prohm besides being known a s the Khmer temple ruin with the trees growing on top of it and was also the location for several scenes of the Angeline Jolie film "Laura Croft, Tomb Raider".

The recently completed restoration project lasted from 2003 to 2014.  The restoration and conservation effort involved installation of boardwalks an railing system to control access by visitors as well as to minimize the impact of visitors on the site.  Conservation efforts also included efforts to repair and protect the trees from the stresses induced by visitors, fungal attacks, instability due to pour drainage at the site.  It was determined necessary to ensure the health of the existing trees in and on the structures to safeguard the structures.  For many of the structures the flora and the ruins had become inextricably one - literally and figuratively.  The tree root systems in many area support the structure and what would Ta Prohm, "The Tree Temple", be without the trees?

"A man sees what he wants to see, and disregards the rest"  paraphrasing Paul Simon.

So it is with the ruins of Siem Reap area and I am fairly confident of any other 1,000 year old ornate structure built by man.

At first glance and typically during the first visit, the majesty and complexity of the structures are over whelming.  The grandeur of man's works is astonishing.  However a more relaxing pace or second visit reveals that all is not what it originally appears to be.  There is often a hodgepodge of discontinuous carvings, shapes, ill matched textures, ill fitting block work, filled in window openings as well as filled in doorways. This reality was missed by our mind's desire to fill in the blanks when first viewing the massive ruins.  We want the ruins to be what we want them to be and our minds suppress processing the realities that do not fit into our desired interpretation of what we see.

Upon seeing these discontinuities, you are able to be aware that the ruins for a large part have been reconstructed by man.  The ravages and onslaught of time and nature have been mitigated by men far removed from the original builders.  Newer blocks and bricks along with recreations of portions of carved murals have been included into the modern ruins.

Part of the Indian restoration of Ta Prohm involved reconstructing a gallery that had collapsed.  For other structures, the reconstruction involved dismantling the structure and reassembling it in a more stable configuration.  Structures that were heavily braced by large timbers in 2007 are now free standing in 2014.

One of my favorite photos of this visit is of a gallery at Ta Prohm that I did not remember from our earlier visit in 2007 ... a collapsed gallery in 2007 that is now rebuilt as part of the 21st century restoration.

The ruins of Cambodia are changing, constantly changing from the forces of nature, time, gravity and man - well intentioned or not.  The ruins of Cambodia are impermanent just as all other things that are affected or  dependent upon something are impermanent.

Our trip back to Siem Reap was not going back in time because changes have made that impossible.  The ruins are no where near what they were 1,000 years ago.  The ruins are not what they were just seven years ago.  They are not what they were nor are they what they will be.

However, my wife and I were able to experience and to enjoy the ruins with a different perspective.  We were able to embrace and accept the ruins as they were ... November 2014.

Our experiences of this trip has left me wondering though.  I wonder about the futility and cost of restoration programs.  The intervention of man against nature and time will not stop changes.  At best the intervention will delay the manifestation of major change but never prevent it.  At worst, man's intervention to stop change will create unnatural change or worst of all obliterate the spirit of the original object.  At what point is the original object destroyed leaving only the restorer's vision or interpretation to remain?

We were able to thoroughly enjoy our trip because we were able to appreciate and experience the changes ... to experience the ruins as they are.

Thomas Wolfe wrote "You Can't Go Home, Again"

Quoting from the novel ""You can't go back home to your family, back home to your childhood ... back home to a young man's dreams of glory and of fame ... back home to places in the country, back home to the old forms and systems of things which once seemed everlasting but which are changing all the time – back home to the escapes of Time and Memory"

We were not able to go back in time but it was a pleasant as well as rewarding journey to Siem Reap.

We will most likely return next year to experience some ruins and portions of ruins that we did not on our previous trips.  I am already making mental notes for the goals of our next trip ... more emphasis on gallery carvings, soybean or rice harvesting, palm sugar production, more fishing on Tonle Sap, and to be available for what ever awaits us.

I May Be Old ...

On Friday, November 7th, we headed out to Tonle Sap Lake for our homestay portion of our visit to Cambodia.

The first segment out to the lake involved traveling out on Cambodian National Highway No. 6 from Siem Reap out to a section of the lake where we would continue on by boat.  When we travel, we typically have a plan as well as a schedule to guide our travels.  However we do not plan and schedule so tightly that we are forced to become oblivious to all the opportunities for photography and special experiences along the route.  Ironically it takes discipline to "stop and smell the roses" when traveling.  It is often too easy to develop tunnel vision and to become excessively focused on either a timetable or destination.  Often it is those serendipitous encounters along the route that define a vacation and provide the memories for a lifetime.

We passed through many small towns on our way to Southeast Asia's largest freshwater lake.  In one town we stopped at a local morning market that was situated on the side of the highway.  It was a great place to photograph local life and culture.

Since this was the fourth day with our wonderful photography guide, he had a great understanding of the types and subjects of the photographs that I enjoy taking.  He knew that I wanted to take a photograph of an ox cart ... well not really an ox cart but the Cambodian version which is pulled by skinny cattle.

At one point, our guide called out to me that an ox cart was headed up the main highway moving towards us.  I saw the cart about two hundred meters (200 yards) moving towards us.  I crouched down alongside of the road to obtain a better perspective for photography.  As I raised my head after squatting and getting comfortable for the anticipated shots, the cart had disappeared!  Simultaneously I heard my guide calling out that the cart had turned.

After ensuring that I was securely holding on to my camera, I took off in pursuit of the ox cart.  Running past some vegetable vendors along with their customers, past a few food carts with standing customers, past a couple food booths with seated diners, I accelerated along Highway 6 creating looks of confusion, concern and finally amusement as I passed.

I came upon the narrow dirt road where the ox cart laden with straw was lumbering along.  Just like that tiny steam engine in the children's story where he kept repeating "I think I can, I think I can", my mind started racing as I lumbered down the dirt road "I think I can, I think I can, I think I can catch up and pass these cattle to get my shots"

Despite having at least a 200 meter head start on me, I did catch up and pass the ox cart - much to the surprise of the cattle and confusion of the cart's driver.

Ox Cart On Side Road In Cambodia

A little past the cart, I squatted down on the side of the road for the perspective that I wanted.  I snapped a few shots and then a strange event occurred.  Understanding that I wanted to take photographs, the cart driver, completely on his own initiative, stopped the cart!

This was an act of kindness by a complete stranger that makes travelling here in Southeast Asia so interesting, satisfying and memorable.

After a few more shots and thanking him, the driver and I went our separate ways.

I returned to the market much slower and much more composed than when I had left - much to the relief of our guide and my wife along with the amusement of many market goers.  I stopped and showed some of the people the photographs on the camera's LCD that I had gotten.  We all enjoyed a laugh.

I am 65 years old now so ... I may be old.  I am definitely over-weight ... but I still can out run an ox-cart!

Dancing Nymphs - The Apsaras

Apsara of Angkor Wat

Earlier this month, we returned to Cambodia, more specifically, Siem Reap after seven years.

Seven years ago, Duang and I had visited Siem Reap and Tonle Sap for four days.  In the ensuing years I acquired a new more sophisticated camera and acquired some more advanced photographic skills.

This year we decided to spend 6 days in the Angkor Wat area to revist Angkor Wat and associated Khmer ruins as well as to attempt to document the fisheries of  Southeast Asia's largest freshwater lake - Tonle Sap.

We arrived in Siem Reap late morning, Monday 3 November.  After checking into our hotel, we headed out to Angkor Wat early afternoon to tour the ruins and be there to photograph the sunset on the temple.  Waiting for sunset is not that great of a wait ... the sun sets around 5:30 PM, 5:35 PM exactly on November 3.

Many things have changed in the seven years since our last visit.  Some changes are not so good and some changes are for the better but greater details of the changes will be addressed in future blogs.  One change, for the better, is the ruins, specifically the towers, are no longer obnoxiously covered in scaffolding and obtrusive tarps.  Some parts of the ruins are under renovation but the tarps are much less visible - a forest green that almost seems to blend into the stones.

Another change, not so good, is the great increase in the number of tourists - specifically bus tours of mainly three groups - Chinese, South Koreans, and Russians.  The ruins are much more crowded than before ... unless you have hired a professional photography guide who knows when and where to go to avoid the tourist hordes.

We had hired a guide service prior to arriving in Cambodia - money very well spent.  We were never overwhelmed by crowds and were shown hidden gems off of the organized tour track.

For many years I was conscious of the "Ugly American" stereotype - you know - the American tourist - ill mannered, loud mouthed, and obnoxious.  Well things have changed - we are no longer the scourges of tourism.  Americans are no higher than 4th on the list, at least in Cambodia - having been surpassed by the Chinese, followed by the Russians and then the South Koreans.  It was nice to no longer be number 1 in that regard.

No matter, we managed through the skill, knowledge, and experience of our guide to minimize our exposure to the tour groups.

Leading up to the sunset on Angkor Wat, we toured the side galleries of the ruins and the upper terraces of the temple.



Devatas of Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat has many stone carvings - many large and grand battle scenes and mythological scenes connected to either Hinduism and Buddhism.  However for this trip, I was more focused on the carvings of Apsaras.

Apsaras are celestial maidens - nymphs.  They are beautiful, graceful, young females - who dance to entertain, and sometimes seduce the gods as well as mortal men.  They are somewhat like angels in the Hindu religion.  Apsaras, besides being known for their dance are also known to rule over luck in gambling and gaming.  Apsaras also are involved in fertility rites.

Through the influences of trade and Hinduism from India as well as the spread of the Khmer Empire from 800 AD to 1400 AD, the concept and mythology of apsaras is part of Indian, Thai, Lao, Burmese, Cambodian, Indonesian, and Vietnamese culture today.

During the reign of Khmer King Jayavarman VII in the 12th century, there were an estimated 3,000 apsara dancers in his court.

In the ruins of Angkor Wat there are many depictions of apsaras dancing or waiting to dance.  Other females who typically are larger and appear to be guarding the temple are known as devatas.

Apsara Dancing - Wall Panel at Angkor Wat

Apsara Sandstone Carving

Devatas Decorate a Column of Angkor Wat

Devatas

Apsara Dance in Cambodia was taught almost exclusively in the Royal Court.  During the reign of terror by the Khmer Rouge (i.e. "The Killing Fields") and their leader Pol Pot, the art of Apsara dance was just about eliminated.  After the fall of the Khmer Rouge, the King of Cambodia's daughter, who had been a principal dancer with the royal dance troupe before the reign of the Khmer Rouge, worked to reestablish the art form.

Sixteen years after removal of Pol Pot regime, the Apsara dance returned to public performances in Cambodia.

Apsara Dance has 1,500 intricate gestures and positions for performing the dance with most of them having significant symbolism.  Dancers at the Royal University of Fine Arts commence their training around seven years old. After 9 to 12 years of training they are ready to perform.

People can experience Apsara Dance at many restaurants in Siem Reap and also at the Cambodian Cultural Center.  I am certain that the skill level and authenticity of the restaurants is far less than the performances by the Royal University of Fine Arts.  However, the cultural shows give a good introduction to the art form.

We attended a restaurant show during our last visit in 2007 and returned to the same restaurant, albeit at a different location, during this month's trip.

We thoroughly enjoyed our visit once again to Cambodia.  Attending the performance of the Apsara Dance was one of many highlights.

Cambodia - Siem Reap - Day #2 Temples, Temples, Temples ...

Khmer Flower Vendor At Banteay Kdei

Friday 10 August, the second day of our Cambodia visit, was a day dedicated to touring SOME of the many temple ruins around Siem Reap.  Our tour of the ruins commenced around 8:00 A.M.

Our first stop was at the ruins of Banteay Kdei which are located northeast of Angkor Wat and approximately due east of Angkor Thom.  The temple of Banteay Kdei was constructed in the period from the late 12th century to early 13th century.

We walked through the ruins some of which were in surprisingly good shape.  As at Angkor Wat we marveled at the magnitude, scale, and complexity of the structures.  Intricate carvings covered many of the temple surfaces.  Exposed stone surfaces bore heavy signs of 800 years of heavy rains, brilliant sun light and the combined ravages of man, plants as well as animals.  Many of the Angkor Wat environ temples have had damages caused by acidic water created by bat dung combining with the persistent rains.  Some of the temples today prominently demonstrate how the intrusion of plants, specifically trees can damage and ultimately destroy the works of man - a reminder of the temporal nature of man and his earthly works. The stone structures have been eroded to varying degrees.  Sadly some structures bear scars from battles ancient as well as recent.  Most tragic of all are the structures specifically sculptures and carvings that have been mutilated for the benefit of "collectors" and "souvenir hunters".  In addition most of the structures are stained by air pollution and moss growing in the abundant damp and dank cracks as well as crannies.

At Banteay Kdei, I came upon a young Khmer girl inside the ruins.  She had a large plastic bucket of lotus flowers that she was selling to passing tourists.  This is typical in many areas of southeast Asia.  Childhood is short and for many children there is no childhood.  At a very early age they are are expected and required to contributed to the family's welfare either by working in the fields or as vendors.  As the tourists passed this young girl by, I disappeared into the shadows to become inconspicuous.  I often find that what I consider to be the more interesting photos of people can be taken when they are unaware and just being themselves.  This style of shooting also best compliments my goal to show extraordinary people doing ordinary things.  I become inconspicuous and patiently observe the reality of life and culture around me.  I was once again rewarded at Banteay Kdei.

Lotus Flower and Khmer Child

The young girl was selling lotus flowers - a plant that has a great deal of symbolism and significance in the Hindu as well Buddhist religions.  After many years and several wars, the original Hindu temples were taken over by Buddhists and converted as places for their worship.  So there are many beliefs and symbols that are shared between the two faiths.  For Hindus, the Creator, Lord Brahma, is believed to have come from the lotus .  For Buddhists the lotus symbolizes purity of both the heart and mind.

For Buddhists the growth of the lotus signifies the progression of man's soul.  The lotus flower has its roots and starts it growth in the mud.  For Buddhist man's soul commences in the "mud" of materialism.  Just as the lotus grows up through the water and blossoms into a beautiful flower in the full sunlight of the day above the water's surface, Buddhists believe that man's soul will develop through the "waters" of experience and eventual rise to blossom in the brilliant light of enlightenment.  At night when there is no sunlight the lotus flower closes just as a man's soul needs enlightenment to blossom.

A Large Silk Cotton Tree Growing Through Ta Prohm Ruins

After our visit to Banteay Kdei, we walked over to and visited Ta Prohm.  Ta Prohm is about 100 years younger than Banteay Kdei - 700 years old rather than 800 years.  This is fascinating to me since back in New England the oldest structures are approximately 400 years old.  Here everywhere I looked were man made objects over 600 years old.

The big attraction for tourists at Ta Prohm is the opportunity to see the ravages and destruction of the structures by the intruding "jungle".  "Jungle" is a term from my youth.  I remember reading Tarzan novels as a young boy where he was "King of the Jungle".  I remember watching TV in the 1950s about white hunters in Africa and in the 1960s once again about Tarzan.  I now prefer to refer to these fascinating seas of plant life as "rain forests".  I have walked in the "rain forests" in Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, and Brazil but have yet to have seen what I would consider to be a jungle.  I suspect that the jungle is only a far away place in the land and time of my youth.

For Duang and I, our expectations for Ta Prohm were exceeded.  The ruins were obviously the result of the natural progress of the rain forest reclaiming its territory from man's incursion.  Large trees grew directly out of the temple's stone structure.  Some time ago, a long time ago in the terms of one person's life, a seed was deposited in a crack between two blocks of massive stone.  Sheltered in the crack, nourished by the frequent rains, and fed by animal and insect wastes, the seed developed and thrived into a tree.  Today the tree is massive with a large root structure that is cleaving the stone structure apart.  Large blocks of stone surrender individually to gravity and tumble to the pile of rubble formed by their predecessors as the large roots continue to pry the upper structure apart as they grow year by year.

Ta Prohm Ruins

After Ta Prohm we visited Ta Keo, an unfinished temple built entirely of sandstone, approximately 1,000 years old.  Photographing the ruins in the Angkor Wat area is a challenge due to a combination of the brilliant sunlight and deep shadows.  The heat, humidity, and rain showers contribute to the challenge.  The physical efforts required to access the upper levels of the ruins is affirmation to the Khmer's desire to remind man that attaining heaven is difficult.  Digital photography is a great assistance in photographing the ruins in that adjustments in the white balance, and exposure can be quickly evaluated rather than waiting days if not weeks for film photography.  Digital photography is also a great deal cheaper than the old print and slide days of photography.  It is reassuring to leave a unique place like Angkor Wat knowing that you "have the shot" rather than believing or hoping that you "got the shot".

Gods Lining the Causeway to the South Gate of Angkor Thom

From Ta Keo we continued towards Angkor Thom.  Angkor Thom was a walled city built approximately 800 years ago. Within the walls of Angkor Thom are the temples and monuments of Bayon, Preah Palilay, Baphuon, Tep Pranam, Terrace of the Leper King, Terrace of Elephants, and Phimeankas, food stalls for today's visitors - each site a definite must visit location.  The gates of Angkor Thom are also a big attraction.  The South Gate is the most visited and straddles the main road from Siem Reap.  On the side of the causeways leading to the gates there are 54 gods on the left side and 54 demons on the right hand side.  The statues lining the causeway to the South Gate have been restored and some have been replaced.

Causeway to the South Gate of Angkor Thom

We spent some time at the South Gate observing the various vehicles transporting tourists from all over the world.  More interesting was watching the Cambodians crossing the causeway to resupply the stalls and vendor sites inside of Angkor Thom with fresh supplies of drinks, fruits, and foods.  Once again the entrepreneurship of Southeast Asians was very apparent.  People were busy supporting their families by selling drinks, foods, fruits, handicrafts, and souvenirs.  Some of the vendors can be annoying.  Some of the vendors, the little children, are irresistible - a fact that I believe is fully understood and appreciated by their parents.  Some tourists are put off and annoyed the efforts of the local people to make a living for their family.  When it starts to get to me, I remind myself that they are only trying to survive and to make use of the meager opportunities that are available to them.  Besides there are plenty of times during these travels that a cold soda, cold ice tea, ice cream, bag or pineapple, green coconut, or snack is more than welcome - they are essential to continue our explorations.  I usually end up joking with the vendors with them having no understanding of my sarcasm or sense of humor.  I typically extract some small revenge upon them by taking their picture. More the case, I end up talking to them or trying to communicate with them by some means and gain a better insight into their life.  If it were like back home, what would the point of traveling to visit these places?  I look upon the occasionally annoying vendors as part of the overall ambiance of these exotic locations.

A Khmer Fruit Vendor At Angkor Thom

Angkor Thom Food Stall Vendors Headed to Work

We visited and enjoyed the attractions inside of Angkor Thom for the remainder of the afternoon - a long and tiring afternoon.  Just before we left Bayon Temple, a rain shower struck.  We took refuge from the rain in one of the intact  rooms of the temple.  I took advantage of the changed lighting and atmospheric conditions to take one final photograph of the day.

Bayon Temple In the Rain

Being forced to pause in our frenetic touring by weather is always a good opportunity.  It is always an opportunity to relax and contemplate the sights and wonders before us.  It is an opportunity to imagine what these sites looked like and how the people lived 700 to 800 years ago.  These sites are physical links to a distant past - to a culture long gone, but upon which much of today's culture is based.  Most of all these enforced pauses are an opportunity to share each other's moments together, to appreciate being together, and to be thankful for the life we share.

Cambodia - Siem Reap

My Take On the Classic Angkor Wat Photo

I have been occupied re cataloging some of my 30,970 photographs lately and the process has brought back many memories of past travels.  One such trip was our journey three years ago to Cambodia.  Since I have also been stirring up some people on Facebook and on some of these Blogs regarding current events and personal responsibility as well as accountability, I will revert back to a blog or two about travels to exotic locales - for the time being.

In August 2007, I needed to exit Thailand and then reenter to obtain a Visa to remain in Thailand until I was scheduled to depart for work in Vietnam in early September.  Taking advantage of this requirement along with a long time desire to see Angkor Wat, I decided that rather than take a bus across the border to Cambodia, enter Cambodia for all of 15 minutes and then returning to Thailand, we would visit Angkor Wat.

Travel to Siem Reap, the city that is the hub for Angkor Wat tourism, was not difficult.  From our home in Pattaya we drove to Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi International Airport about 1-1/2 hours away.  At BKK we took a morning flight on Bangkok Airways directly to Siem Reap - about 70 minutes flight time.  We arrived in Siem Reap around 10:00 A.M. 

We did not have a Visa prior to entering Cambodia so we, like most of the other passengers, stood in line at the Siem Reap Airport to obtain a "VOA" (Visa on Arrival).  I had researched ahead of time so we had the required passport photographs and US dollars ($20 each) to obtain the visas.  There was no problem with getting a VOA, and when we return to Cambodia we will do the same again.

I had used the Internet to make reservations at a hotel in Siem Reap so we grabbed one of the many freelance cabs waiting at the airport.  The vehicle was in fairly good shape.  The driver spoke English rather well and he seemed to be a safe driver.  These three qualities were sufficient for me to inquire about hiring him for transportation during our entire stay.  It turned out that he could not be hired but he knew of a good guide and driver that he could recommend.  Once again I relied upon my and Duang's intuition and accepted the taxi driver's recommendation.  This is contrary to what guide books recommend for tourists, using freelance transportation and taking recommendations of locals, but Duang and I are "travelers".  Using our intuition we rely heavily local experts rather than foreigners for suggestions and recommendations to enjoy their city.

Our Cambodian Guide

After settling into our room - dumping out two carry-on bags and using the bathroom, we went downstairs to wait for our "guide" and "driver".  After 15 minutes, as promised by the taxi driver, our guide and driver arrived.  Our guide was a young man who spoke excellent English and was a government licensed guide.  To be a licensed guide a person must demonstrate an extensive knowledge of the temples and sites in the Siem Reap area.  I strongly recommend hiring a guide.  There are so many temples, ruins, and history in this area that to just to start to develop an appreciation let alone an understanding of Angkor Wat and other local ruins requires the assistance of a knowledgeable guide.

Our guide came with a vehicle and a driver.  The vehicle was in good shape and most importantly - it had a very good functioning air-conditioner.  Siem Reap is always hot and humid. Having a car with an operating air conditioner for refuge from the sun, heat, and rain is well worth the cost. Knowing what you are looking at as you travel from point to point is a bonus.  Not having to watch out for ox carts, cattle, tourists, motorbikes, cars, trucks, and pedestrians while trying to read a map as you drive is a sanity saver.  Being able to have someone take you to sights and scenes that meet your identified interests makes a guide's services invaluable.

I believe that you can tour Angkor Wat on bicycle or motorbike on your own.  The area where the temple and ruins are situated is about 14 miles by 12 miles - 168 square miles!  I always recommend that people do not rent and drive a motorbike here in Southeast Asia - it is just too dangerous.  If you were to be involved in an accident, matters are unduly complicated by the fact that you are a foreigner - unfamiliar with the language, "rules", customs and practises of the local area.

Siem Reap is a boom town.  Hotels and restaurants seem to be opening everyday.   After the nightmare of the Khmer Rouge and subsequent Cambodian Civil War ceased fighting in 1998.  Angkor Wat and the Siem Reap had been the scene of fighting. As we flew into the Siem Reap Airport low over the flooded rice paddies glistening in the bright August sun, I could see remnants of bomb craters scattered all over the countryside.  Now that Cambodia is stabilized and a magnet once again for tourism, many hotels and restaurants are being built.  There are also some renown cooking schools, many of them French affiliated, located in Siem Reap.  The schools provide training for the Cambodians and support the large international hotels in the area.  The result is the availability of fine and sophisticated international dining in a locale that is somewhat primitive in infrastructure.

The streets and roads of Siem Reap are crowded with all kinds of vehicles with a heavy smattering of pedestrians.  There is the energy, excitement, and noise of a boom town which adds to the over all ambiance of the area.  We drove through town and headed out to Angkor Wat on the afternoon of our first day.  Just outside of the entrance to Angkor Wat we stopped to obtain passes for the area.  To tour or visit the temples and ruins you need to possess a pass. You wear your pass on your clothing  so that it can be readily checked by authorities and security guards.  A one day pass is $20 USD.  A three day pass costs $40 each. A one week pass is $60 US dollars.  You need a passport size photograph and US dollars to obtain a pass.  I was able to withdraw US dollars from my bank account in California using an ATM machine in Siem Reap - Cambodia has changed  and changed rapidly in the past 12 years!  I do not know why anyone would visit Angkor Wat for just a day other than to be able to claim "I was there!"  At a minimum I recommend three days to tour the ruins.  Five to seven days is not unreasonable and most likely would be easier on your body.  We spent three days and with all the climbing, heat, and humidity, we were exhausted as well as sore at the conclusion of our trip to the ruins.

Children Playing At Angkor Wat - Sandstone Causeway Is To the Right

The first stop was the Angkor Wat Temple.  It was magnificent even with parts of it covered in scaffolding and tarps.  The temple as well as all the others in the area are built from sandstone.  Sandstone is easy to carve but does not weather well.  The temples were built from 800 A.D. to 1400 A.D. and have been subject to the ravages of the jungle, the environment, competing religions, wars, some well intentioned but technically misguided restorations attempts and now hordes of tourists.  Many of the ruins are in danger of disappearing into mounds of rubble in the near future.  International efforts to correct previous restoration attempts and to slow the effects of tourism and weather on the sites are continually underway.

Khmer Worker At Entrance to Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is surrounded by a man made moat.  We walked across a large sandstone causeway to enter the temple.  The combination of the multi tiered temple, out lying structures and large moat surrounding the temple has been interpreted as being the recreation of the Hindu universe.  The central temple represents Mt Meru, the home of Lord Brahma, with the moat representing the cosmic oceans.

We entered through the main entrance and continued along the causeway towards the central temple.  Inside of the walled area, two libraries flank each side of the walkway.  Past the libraries are identical pools flanking the walkway. Balance is a strong theme in the architecture of Angkor Wat.  There is a symmetry along the main axis of the site. The symmetry adds a sense of order and balance that one would expect or at least hopes would exist in the universe.  The scale of the temple is massive.  Contemplating the resources and commitment required to create such a wonder gives an hint at the power and glory of the Khmer Kings of the Angkorian Period.

A Nun Peers Around A Bas-Relief Column

Angkor Wat and Surroundings From Above

Hindu Diety Vishnu Inside of Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is believed to have been constructed as a funerary temple for King Suryavarman II who had unified the Khmer people and spread Khmer influence over Burma, Malaysia, and Thailand.  King Suryavarman II was devoted to the Hindu Deity Vishnu.  He dedicated Angkor Wat to Vishnu.

The bas-reliefs throughout Angkor Wat depict many scenes from the Hindu epics, "Mahabharata" and "Ramayana".  There are many "Apsara" (heavenly nymphs, celestrial maidens).  The Apsaras were very proficient at dancing and today a very graceful style of dancing in Cambodia is referred to as "Apsara Dancing".  Despite the efforts of the Khmer Rouge during their reign to wipe out Apsara dancing, the art has been revived and is now flourishing.  Unlike their ancient cousins, today's Apsara dancers are not bare breasted - or at least none of the dancers that we found during our visit to Cambodia.

Angkor Wat Apsara Bas-Relief

Bas-Relief - An Apsara

Angkor Wat Bas-Relief

Visiting Angkor Wat is physically challenging.  In addition to the sun, heat, and humidity, accessing the ruins involves climbing many heights.  Access to the higher portions of temples and ruins is made by climbing wood stairs but mostly by climbing up the narrow and extremely steep original stone steps.  The Khmer believed that the upper reaches of their temples represented heaven and since attaining heaven is difficult for man, reaching the upper portions of their temples was consciously made difficult as a reminder to mankind.  Having attained the upper reaches of the temples I can attest to the difficulty and value attained through the struggle.

Angkor Wat Courtyard Viewed From Above

After touring Angkor Wat all afternoon, we returned to our hotel to refresh ourselves and rest prior to going out for dinner.  Based upon the recommendation of our guide we went to a restaurant that in addition to a large international buffet had a cultural show.  The food was excellent and more importantly the entertainment was fantastic.  Performers played traditional Cambodian music and traditional dances.  After viewing so many Apsara dancers carved out of stone, it was a welcomed change to finally view some Apsara dancers and dancing in the flesh.

A Khmer Musician During Cultural Show

A Khmer Classical Dancer Performing

An Apsara Dancer