New Gallery Available - "Knife Makers of Laos"

Knife Maker, Ban Hat Hien LPDR

I have finally have caught up on the editing and post processing of my photographs from the past three months.  I am not complaining because having so many photographs to work on indicates that there have been many interesting experiences during that time period.

There have been two funerals, an elementary school field day, rice harvesting, rice threshing, reunions with old friends, reunions with family, and some travels - all milestones for us as time passes.

One of our travels was to the Lao People's Democratic Republic ("Laos" or "LPDR").  We went to Luang Prabang as a respite from the emotional environment created by the death of Duang's father. It was a relief to get away from all the commotion back in Tahsang Village.

One of our destinations in Laos, was to revisit the knife makers of Ban Hat Hien, a small village across the road from the Luang Prabang International Airport.  Three years ago we had watched knives being created by the villagers out of recycled motor vehicle suspension leaf springs.

During this trip we also visited a Khmu village in the highlands outside of Luang Prabang where we encountered a 90 year old blacksmith making knives.

A new photo gallery of photographs on my photography website, documenting the knife making, is now available at the link below

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Laos/Knife-Makers-of-Laos/36637899_hmCg4d

Knife Makers of the LPDR

Khmu Knife Maker In the Highlands Near Luang Prabang

I enjoy witnessing and documenting handicrafts by the local peoples of Southeast Asia.  This affinity for appreciating and being fascinated by people making things for their everyday life stems back many years to when I was a child.  Our family for many years had a garden that supplied the kitchen with fresh vegetables.  In the Fall my mother would can tomatoes, and pickles.  Best of all we would scour the countryside for wild grapes that we would pick and my mother would magically turn into paraffin topped jars of exquisite grape jelly that would last until the next Fall.

In Southeast Asia there are still countless opportunities to experience people making do for themselves, their family, and their neighbors.  Depending upon the time of season there is rice planting, rice harvesting, peanut planting, peanut harvesting, cotton weaving, saht weaving, silk weaving, sugar cane planting, sugar cane harvesting, butchering of animals, weaving of fishing nets, fishing, making ethnic treats over outdoor charcoal fires, building gunpowder rockets, and many other interesting activities that help to definite the local cultures.

As a child back in Connecticut, we often went on field trips as part of a family outing or as part of a school class.  Two places that we went to often were Mystic Seaport and Old Sturbridge Village.  Mystic Seaport focuses on the New England whaling industry of the 18th and 19th century while Old Sturbridge Village deals with 18th and 19th century rural New England life.

Both the Seaport and the Village are living museums with people performing tasks and using the resources as well as the techniques available to our ancestors during the period that the museums focus upon.

Mystic Seaport Blacksmith Making Lantern Brackets

One of my favorite living exhibits at both of the museums was the blacksmiths.  The blacksmiths at Old Sturbridge Village were typically occupied making nails.  The blacksmiths at Mystic Seaport, if you were fortunate, would be making a harpoon head.  If you were not so fortunate they would be making brackets or hinges for ships.

I first encountered knife making in Southeast Asia in 2010 during our trip to Luang Namtha, Lao People's Democratic Republic (LPDR).  We ended up visiting many ethnic villages in the surrounding area.  One village that we visited was a Khmu village, Baan Sopsim, where several men were working together making knives.

That experience was a subject of a previous blog:

http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2010/02/village-blacksmiths-laos-day-3.html

Knife Making In Baan Sopsim

On our second trip to the former royal capital of Laos, Luang Prabang, we went out to a village, Ban Hat Hien, renowned for the resident's metalworking skills.  We witnessed knives being made out of recycled leaf springs from the suspensions of motor vehicles.

Once again our experience there was the subject of another blog entry:

http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2010/12/baan-hat-hien-blacksmith-village.html

Ban Hat Hien Knife Makers

On our last trip to LPDR in December 2013, we wanted to return to Baan Hat Hien to watch the people make knives out of the recycled steel.  On the morning of our second day in Luang Prabang, we drove out to Baan Hat Hien which is located next to the Luang Prabang International Airport.

We got out of our rented tuk tuk, a very small pick up truck - perhaps 1/2 ton capacity with very small wheels, and started to walk around the village.  Many things had changed.  There were more houses in the village than during our last visit three years ago.  Some of the wood, bamboo, and thatched houses had been upgraded to cinder block and corrugated metal houses.  The location where we first encountered knife making in the village was gone - replaced by a house.  The village square area was now filled with houses.  However as we walked along the road towards the village Vat we encountered a familiar sight - a man and his wife still banging together ... banging glowing bright yellow steel on the same makeshift anvil that they were three years ago to produce knives.  Their metal working operation in the front yard of their hoe along the village dirt road had not changed a bit.

After three years, still banging away, together

The man and his wife recognized us - I suspect that they don't get many foreign visitors who spend an hour with them, talking and taking photographs.

Wife tends to heating steel in a charcoal forced draft furnace(?)

Over the past three years, the division of labor between the husband and wife team had not changed.  The wife was responsible for heating the steel.  Her duties included tending to the charcoal fire that was utilized to heat the steel to a near white temperature.  She added bits of charcoal as required to keep the fire going and she turned on and off the small electrical fan that blew air underneath the fire to keep the fire hot enough for heating the steel. She held the shaped steel in the fire with long metal tongs.  With the same tongs, she quickly transferred the heated metal to the makeshift anvil located within arm's distance to her.  She held the heated, but quickly cooling, steel over the anvil as her husband banged on it to further shape it and commence to put an edge on what was to become a large heavy knife.  In concert with her husband and without any verbal communication she would move and turn the knife blank to facilitate the shaping process.

Shaping the knife blank

The steel cooled quickly from almost white to a bright yellow, on to a dull yellow, a bright red, to a cherry red, then on to dull red followed by a grey color.  When the steel got close to the grey color, the husband took over holding the knife blank and hitting it with the hammer while his wife pivoted to place another blank in the fire to heat up.  By the time the husband had completed his fine adjustments to the cooling steel shape, another piece of steel was hot enough for forging by the team.

Completed knife blanks were cooled, water quenched, in a tub of water between the husband and wife.  This process "freezes" the metallurgical structure of the steel so that it has acceptable properties for a knife.

Periodically the team would heat the up to then, neglected ends, of the knife.  Using long metal tongs, the husband would burn the hot end of the knife into prepared pieces of bamboo that became the handles for the knives.  This generated a great deal of smoke as the hot metal burned and also created steam as it penetrated the bamboo.

Burning A Bamboo Handle On To A Knife

After about half an hour, we left and moved on along the village road.  We walked towards the sounds of metal being forged and shortly came upon another family knife making enterprise.

As steel is  heated in the background, a young man grinds an edge on to a knife

This was a fairly large enterprise with about six people, not counting the children and their mothers who were watching close by - sometimes too close, involved in the metal working process.  There were also some family members next door involved in producing the charcoal that will be used in the fires to heat steel.

Mother and daughter working to make charcoal

I don't know exactly how many people were actually working to produce the charcoal.  There was a woman and her grown up daughter who were working their butts off - hauling wood up the hill, splitting the logs in two or four depending upon their size, and loading the split wood over a fire pit as part of the process to make charcoal.  Making charcoal, to simplify the process and explanation, is essentially baking wood.  Baking wood in an oxygen deficient atmosphere drives out the volatiles from the wood leaving behind carbon (char) that burns at the higher temperatures that are required to work steel.

A wife splitting log to be used to produce charcoal

There was an older man watching over the two women who were working so hard.

I did not see him working.  Through Duang I asked him why he was not working.  He replied that he was too old to work but that his young wife and his daughter were good workers.  I then asked him what I could do to get my wife to work so hard because my young wife does not work like that and I am too old too.  We all had a very good laugh except for his young grandson who was not all that thrilled to see a "falang" (white foreigner).

Splitting logs - Khmu style

Unfortunately for the little boy, we were around for a good while.  Duang had made a deal with the next door knife makers to buy a knife - a special knife.  She agreed to buy a good knife that could cut bone.  I expressed concern about a knife that could cut my bones to everyone's amusement.  Duang assured me that she would not cut my bone with the knife.  She said that if I were to be a "naughty boy" she would use the knife to cut something else on me that has no bone in it!  Everyone roared with laughter ... including me after feigning fear.  Everywhere we go in Thailand and Lao, the people enjoy and are ready for a good laugh.  Seldom do we leave them wanting.  It makes for a good time for all, gets everyone to relax and to be happy.  It often makes for better photographs too.  Oh - the other special thing about the knife was that we got to watch the people make Duang's knife from the very start.  The price of Duang's special knife - roughly $7.00 USD cash.  The cost of watching it being made from a piece of recycled steel - a few laughs mainly at my expense.  The price of spending some quality time with the knife makers of Ban Hat Hien - priceless

Making Duang's "Special Knife"

Our adventures into knife making in Lao was not over for this trip quite yet.  The next day we spent in the highlands overlooking Luang Prabang.  It was a day of unexplored territory and people for us.  It was a great day spent at Lao, Khmu, and Hmong villages.

At the first Khmu villages that we stopped at we came upon an old man making knives in his forge attached to back of his house.

Old Khmu Blacksmith

Working by himself he was producing knives like we had seen down in the valley.  These knives are all purpose utility knives.  They are used for butchering animals, harvesting sugar cane, food preparation, cutting firewood, and collecting food stuffs from the surrounding forest.  You will frequently see people of just about all ages with both a woven basket and one of these knives strapped to their backs.

There is a legion about Icarus who flew to close to the Sun which melted his wings resulting in him plunging into the sea and drowning.  The good blacksmith of the village did not get too close to the Sun but there is evidence that he has gotten too close to the fire.  Unlike Icarus the blacksmith has not perished, in fact he has thrived to be 90 years old.  The effect of his getting too close to the fire is that a portion of the plastic frames of his glasses have melted and deformed.

Our encounters with knife makers was concluded for that trip.  It had been very informative as well as entertaining.

I returned to Thailand once again with an appreciation and admiration how the people of this region are able to make do with what they have available to them.  The ability to fashion a living from their environment for me is an inspiration.  It is also testament to their self sufficiency.

Baan Hat Hien - Blacksmith Village



Baan Hat Hien Blacksmiths Forging A Cane Knife

 Since we had rented a Tuk-Tuk along with a driver during our trip to Lunag Prabang, Laos we had the freedom as well as flexibility to do some sightseeing outside of Luang Prabang proper.  As part of my research for our second trip to the area I determined that visits to three villages would be interesting.


Baan Hat Hien, "Blacksmith Village" Lao People's Democratic Republic

One of the villages that I wanted to visit was "Baan Hat Hien" which is also referred to as "Blacksmith Village".  According to my research on the Internet Baan Hat Hien is well known for making knives out of reclaimed American artillery shells and other war materials.  America's not so secret, "Secret War", in Laos ended 35 years ago and even though Laos is the most heavily bombed country in the world, the amount of available war material has apparently diminished greatly.  During our visit to the village which included three homes where blacksmitting was being performed, we did not observe any brass or bomb materials.  The Baan Hat Hien blacksmiths were creating knives and machetes out of recycled steel - high grade steel from leaf springs of Tuk-Tuks and Somlaws.  Although the amount of material from the war now available for forging into knives has diminished, the threat to the Lao people from the wars remains a real concern and danger.  During our visit we saw Lao government vehicles associated with their campaign to rid the country of unexploded ordinance.

Today the blacksmiths purchase leaf springs from the suspensions of Tuk-Tuks and Somlaws from scrap metal dealers from Vientiane for 6,000 KIP ($0.75 USD) a kilogram ($0.16 USD per pound).  The blackmiths disassemble the leaf springs and cut them into the proper length.  They use their forge to heat the steel in order to cut the steel with a hammer and chisel.  I did not see any oxy-acetylene cutting torches in the village.  Oxy-acetylene cutting torches use compressed bottles of oxygen and compressed bottles of acetylene to fuel a hot flame to cut steel.  I suspect that both the cost and the lack of availability of the gases preclude their use in Baan Hat Hien.  The blacksmiths of Baan Hat Hien heat their steel in small charcoal fires.  Charcoal is a local product and cheap.



A Typical Forge in Baan Hat Hien

I didn't count the number of houses in the village, but I would guess that there were 10 to 15 houses.  From the blacksmiths I learned that there were 5 forges in the village.  Five forges?  Actually there were five homes where the family forged knives over a very small charcoal fire in the front yard of the home.  Typically the 6 inch diameter fire was contained in a rough furnace built with a few bricks and supplemented with a forced draft fan.  Everything was fit for purpose and from readily available cheap materials.  The forced draft fans are small blowers that appear to be recycled truck defroster, heater, or A/C fans.  Air from the fan was sent by a metal tube to discharge beneath the coals of the fire.



 As is typical in these cottage industry facilities and many homes the electrical system was very primitive and suspect.  Electrical cable ran unprotected along the ground from a very small junction box on a post or pole to the blower.  I did not see any protective measures such as metal conduit or a GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter).  If there is one thing that concerns me more than being involved in a traffic accident over here, it is having some sort of electrical accident.  My concerns are in general not shared by the local people.




A Husband and Wife Work Together In Front of Their Home

The people working with the hot steel wore no personal protection equipment.  Due to the heat of the day and from the forge, they wore cotton tee shirts and cotton shorts.  None of the workers wore gloves even though they were handling hot metal.  None of the workers had safety boots.  The workers were barefoot or wore their everyday rubber flip flops.  I never saw a pair of safety glasses despite the various activities that could injure the worker's eyes.  If any type of head wear was worn it was a simple baseball style cotton cap.  Despite the soot from the charcoal fire none of the workers wore a dust mask or anything else over their nose and mouth.  Although the workers were handling yellow hot steel and striking the hot steel with heavy hammers causing sparks to fly and undoubtedly small pieces of hot metal, the workers did not wear any "leathers".  I grinned to myself thinking of the heart attack any of the safety men that I had worked with in the past would have had upon inspecting these work sites.  We were witnessing a cottage industry no doubt very much like those operating in Europe or America in the mid 19th century.  The blacksmiths do not go to school to learn metallurgy or manufacturing techniques.  The ones that we spoke to were taught their craft by their fathers.  The workers were masters as well as slaves to their trade.  They pretty much controlled the entire process and means of production.  However, if they didn't produce they did not earn any money.




Two Workers Beat On A Hot Steel Blank to be Forged Into A Cane Knife


The man and wife that we spent the most amount of time with start work at 8:00 A.M. and work 7 days a week until 5 or 6 P.M..  I suspect that their quitting time is more determined by available day light than any defined schedule.  Their product is purchased by a "big company" for 16,000 KIP a cane knife ($2.00 USD) which the company then distributes and sells for $4 USD.  The blacksmith team can make 10 knives a day.  In comparison Lao field workers make $2.67 USD a day versus $20 USD for the blacksmith and his wife.

A Worker Inserts A Hot Blank Into A Bamboo Handle That is Being Prepared


At two of the forges, wives worked with their husbands to produce cane cutting knives.  The women tended to heating the steel in the fire.  They also took the hot semi finished knives from their husbands and shoved the blanks into prepared pieces of bamboo.  Bamboo is a type of grass.  It is hollow but at intervals there is a diaphragm that closes off the interior of the bamboo.  These periodic internal bracing gives the bamboo plant strength and rigidity. The prepared pieces of dried bamboo were cut so that one of the internal diaphragms was close to one end and far from the other end. As the narrow tapered end of the hot knife entered into the hollow bamboo at the long end it eventually burned through the internal diaphragm at the far short end thus creating a good mechanical connection once the blade is completed.  When the blade has been completed the blade is reinserted into the bamboo handle and the void filled with an epoxy.  The day that we visited the women were only burning the internal slot into the handle and removed the still hot blade to complete cooling on the ground.  The handles were set off to the side for use at a later time.

Baan Hat Hien Knives For Sale - We bought one of the antler handle knives

In addition to cane cutting knives, the blacksmiths of Baan Hat Hien produce smaller hand knives.  These knives are presented with a great deal of pride and available for purchase directly from the blacksmiths.  We ended up buying a knife with a simple etched bamboo handle for 50,000 KIP ($6.25 USD).  A short while later we wee presented with some other knives for consideration.  Two of the knives had antler handles.  We ended up purchasing one of them for the same $6.25 price.  We like to purchase local handicrafts on our various travels.  It is a way to support and encourage local crafts and make wonderful souvenirs as well.




Handcrafted Knives with Bamboo Handles

 We spent about an hour at the village and learned a great deal about knife making but more importantly about the people's life.

Once again I was impressed and in awe of people making do with what was available to them.  The people were able to survive with little outside involvement or perhaps more importantly without outside interference.

It is these triumphs of the individual and cultural adaptations that I enjoy witnessing and documenting.

It is crafts, skills, and traditions like these that make up the heritage of mankind.  They are priceless gifts for the future and inspirations for today.

New Gallery Available - "Ban Sopsim - Khmu Village"

A new photo gallery, "Ban Sopsim - Khmu Village", is now available for viewing

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Travel/Ban-Sopsim-Khmu-Village/11486319_sPc5g#808160675_CspZx

The Village Blacksmith(s) - Laos Day #3

The Village Blacksmith

"UNDER a spreading chestnut-tree
The village smithy stands;
The smith, a mighty man is he,
With large and sinewy hands;
And the muscles of his brawny arms
Are strong as iron bands.
His hair is crisp, and black, and long,
His face is like the tan;
His brow is wet with honest sweat,
He earns whate'er he can,
And looks the whole world in the face,
For he owes not any man. ... " Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

On our "leisure" day trip on Wednesday, 27 January, we encountered the village blacksmiths in the Khmu village of Baan Sopsim. Lacking a spreading chestnut tree, the blacksmiths toiled under a thatched roof lean-to that was attached to some one's home. Outside of their smithy shop, women tended to babies and kept watch over the older children who were occupied with their play. The wood stairway leading up into the home made both a convenient seat and observation post for two of the mothers. Off to the side, a grandmother stood crocheting a fine meshed nylon bag typically used for holding fish or snails gathered in the nearby river.

When we first arrived in Sopsim, we did not see the blacksmiths. Our attention was drawn to some woman and children. The woman were sewing and doing embroidery. The children were busy running around and playing - agitated by the arrival of a foreigner. We started to hear sounds of metal banging upon metal in an almost rhythmic cadence from across the dirt road that bisects the village. We crossed the road and investigated.

There were several men engaged in making new knives and spears for spear guns. There appeared to be just as many men watching as well as socializing with the workers. This is typical in Laos as well as in Isaan. Manchester United Football team's slogan is "You Never Walk Alone" A similar slogan could be adapted for Lao culture - "You never work alone" You may not necessarily have someone helping you but you will most certainly have some one watching you.

There was a charcoal fire about the size of a small Campbell's Soup can where the steel was heated in and over. Next to the fire was a round cylinder about 8 inches in diameter which appeared to be wood and about 18 inches long with two 1/2 inch diameter pipes coming out of its side and running underneath the small fire. One end of the cylinder was completely sealed off. The other end of the cylinder was sealed with a membrane that had a small diameter metal rod penetrating its center. At the exposed end of the metal rod there was a wood "T" handle that a young man diligently grasped as he continuously drove the the rod back and forth into the cylinder. The in and out motion of the rod caused air to be forced into the fire to create the higher temperatures necessary for forging the steel. The home made forced draft "fan" or quasi-bellows was very similar to the device that I had recently seen on television related to ancient Chinese technology of over 1,000 years ago. Absolutely fascinating - air was forced into the fire on each push as well as pull stroke of the rod. We watched for quite awhile. Duang asked if I could work the bellows. I made a crude remark about having to place my hand around the rod in a different position to stroke the rod. I used the Lao term for the action (practise?) and the men laughed like crazy. Unfortunately the laugh was not at my expense but at the expense of the young man who had been stroking the rod for so long. He became embarrassed with their teasing and left for a short time. His friend took over but quickly turned over the task to the first young man when he returned. It was all very good natured teasing like you would expect amongst family members or very good friends.



One of the men was alternatively heating some thin steel in the fire and pounding upon it with a medium sized ball peen hammer to turn it into a knife shape. His "anvil" was a spike shaped piece of steel with a 3 inch square head driven into a large diameter hardwood log that was laying on its side underneath the thatched roof.

Next to the anvil a man was busy cutting a small diameter steel pipe. He did not have any electric tools. He did not have a hacksaw or even a hacksaw blade. He was using a file and a heavy knife along with the ball peen hammer to cut the tube. Further back, a man was preparing to put a hole in a piece of wood. He did not have a bit and brace. He did not have a hand drill. He did not even have a twisted drill bit. He was using a red hot steel rod to burn a hole in the wood. Wisps of smoke rose in spirals as the hot steel burned its way into the wood while he twisted the rod.


Another man was carving a piece of wood to be the knife handle. The tapered end of the knife blade would be driven into the hole at the end of the wood handle. Throughout this Lao trip, we saw men walking along the roads and into the forest with their long handled knife strapped to their waist in scabbards made from woven bamboo. The people are very much self sufficient and quite adapt at making do with what resources are readily available to them.

Another blacksmith was occupied in forging parts for a spear gun or rather more accurately a "spear pistol". We had seen several young men walking near the river carrying pistol sized guns that shot spears made out of 3/32 inch metal rods. The devices are used to catch fish.

While he worked on the spear gun, the other blacksmith, was sharpening one of his new knife blades on a piece of sandstone. The sandstone was a piece of rock that had been struck and cleaved to form a fairly flat raw surface that he poured some of the water from the wooden tempering trough to lubricate, cool, as well as create a slurry that he rubbed the steel over and over. Besides creating a cutting edge on the knife blade, he rubbed the backside of the blade to smooth the edges and square the side.


"He earns what'er he can

And Looks the whole world in the face,

For he owes not any man ... "

Recently I was asked how is poor defined in this culture. I responded that the people do not have many material possessions but they are able to care for themselves as well as their families. In this culture spiritual well being and happiness are also considered measures of wealth. Rather than pitying these people for all the material goods that they lack, I am awed by their ability to survive in the conditions that they find themselves in. I joke with Duang that I would be dead in two weeks.

Rather than being poor they are wealthy in the sense that just as Longfellow's Village Blacksmith could they too can look the while world in the face for they owe not any man.

How many of us are that rich?