Hmong Music

Almost two years ago Duang and I ventured to Chiang Mai to visit the Hill Tribe people as well as to celebrate my birthday. I had contacted a tour company that I had previously used on three trips to Maehongson and one trip to Chiang Rai.

One of the many highlights of our trip to Chiang Mai was a visit to a Hmong village on a mountain top outside of the city. Our guide attended university with one of the village leaders who was working on opening up his village to tourism. The Hmong were once very much involved in the cultivation of opium poppies and production of heroin. The illicit trade has been largely eradicated and programs instituted under Royal sponsorship to provide other income streams for the Hmong people.

As we drove up the mountain towards the village, we saw evidence of some of these programs. Large fields of flowers and associated small support buildings for a commercial nursery clung to the steep hillsides. In other areas large plots of cabbages were growing on the steep hill sides.

We arrived at the village and were met by two of the village elders dressed in traditional Hmong clothing. They lead us on a walking tour of the village and tours of some of the homes. We watched a woman working on producing batik cloth with traditional Hmong designs. She was using a stylo and melted bees wax to make intricate geometric patterns on white cotton cloth. Later the cloth would be dyed to produce a distinctive blue on indigo fabric.

After awhile, we were informed that there would be a special party in honor of our visit and my birthday. The festivities commenced with a welcoming ceremony and show put on by the villagers.

The village Headman played traditional music a large as well as long reed instrument called the "qeej". The qeej is played by a combination of blowing and sucking air in and out of the qeej. The qeej is often used to perform traditional music at Hmong funerals and at New Years celebrations. Traditional music is played mostly for ceremonial purposes and our visit was apparently considered cause enough.

Hmong music is an extension of the Hmong language. Each note represents a word. To the Hmong people the qeej sounds are a speech. To me the qeej was unlike any music that I had ever heard before. To me it lacked the harmonics and melody that we associate with music. It was interesting for sure. Qeej players are story tellers who perform centuries old songs. They often dance as they play the 5 to 6 foot long reed instrument. The village Headman was no exception. He danced as he played. He danced in a very fluid and graceful manner as he managed to keep the qeej mainly parallel to the ground. He turned quickly to the left, to the right, and in complete circles as he played.

The Hmong people are mostly Animists and believe that when the qeej is played, ghosts will go after the musician. To prevent the spirits from following him, the musician dances in a circle to lose the spirits.

After the qeej music, a village woman in traditional Hmong clothing played a "ncas dai npib" (mouth organ). The ncas dai npib is the Hmong equivalent of the Jew's harp. The ncas is a very thin metal blade that has several slots cut into it. It is placed in front of the musicians open mouth with one hand and struck with the other to produce a very soft almost like a whisper sound. The ncas is used for private communication. It is specifically used in courting rituals. A young Hmong girl will go to sleep or pretend to go to sleep inside her parent's home and her suitor will appear outside the window to tell her of his love, admiration and what ever else will likely work for him using the ncas. Again the music notes are words so a great deal can be conveyed by the song.

Another part of the villager's show was a man leaf blowing - "daj plooj". He used a banana leaf held between his thumbs to create music by blowing air across the leaf's edge. We were told that people can communicate from mountain to mountain using leaf blowing. He was able to effortlessly make some very large sounds of different pitches and tones. Despite never being very successful back in New England with "grass blowing", I accepted the offer to demonstrate my leaf blowing. Through much patient assistance and advice, I was able to get a sound, more of a squawk out of the banana leaf much to the delight and amusement of the Hmong villagers. I don't know if it was my labored efforts or the actual sound that was so funny. Knowing now that tones are also words, my "music" may actually have been saying something funny or embarrassing.

There was also a demonstration of swordsmanship. Again there were fluid and graceful movements utilized to show the villager's prowess with the Hmong sword. Fortunately, I was not asked to demonstrate my swordsmanship.

At the conclusion of the show, we went inside for a sit down dinner. From community bowls, we shared a very tasteful meal of chicken, forest soup, rice, green beans, and other vegetables. The food was washed down with bottomless small cups of rice wine. The liquid was called "wine" but it was more like vodka in taste as well as strength. The rice wine was produced in the village and was quite potent - I suspect around 60 to 80 proof. The food and drink was very conducive to lively and animated conversation.

We learned about the King's program to provide alternatives to growing poppies for the Hmong people. One of the village men had been selected to receive silversmith training. He had gone to Bangkok to be taught silversmith techniques. He became quite adept at it and was part of the Royal artisans producing intricate as well as delicate pieces of silver jewelry. He showed us some of his work and it was very impressive. His hope is to set up a shop and school in the village to train other people of his village. The villagers asked us about our lives and families. It was a very nice evening - good food, good drink, and great people.

Ramakian Murals

Wat Phra Kaeo, part of the Grand Palace in Bangkok, is also commonly referred to by many non-Thais as the "Wat of the Emerald Buddha". Wat Phra Kaeo is the home of the relic that was brought from Laos to Thailand in 1779. The Emerald Buddha had originally been located in Northern Thailand commencing in the early 1400s and was attributed to miracles where ever it was kept. Perhaps for that reason, it was taken to Laos for 200 years until King Rama I seized Vientiane and returned it to the new Thai capital city, Bangkok. Besides being famous and revered for the Emerald Buddha, Wat Phra Kaeo is also renown for the Ramakian Murals.

The Ramakian is the Thai version of the Hindu epic poem "The Ramayana" which is based upon Hindu mythology. The Hindu epic poem was written over 2,000 years ago. Like other epic poems such as Homer's "Iliad" and ""Odyssey", "Aeneid" by Virgil, "Paradise Lost" by Milton, "The Ramayana" is a long narrative poem that contains a central hero that embodies a society's values. There are episodes that are important to the history and development of a country or race. Like the aforementioned epics, "The Ramayana" also contains Divine intervention in the lives of humans.

In "The Ramayana" the story of Prince Rama of Ayodha. His wife is kidnapped by a demon king - King Rakshasa of Lanka. Much of the epic is related to the struggles and adventures of Prince Rama to regain his wife and to deal with King Rakshasa. The story is about the triumph of good over evil along the conflicts of duty as well as moral obligations

There were written versions of the epic prior to King Rama I of Thailand but they were destroyed when the previous capital of Siam, Ayutthaya was sacked and burned by the Burmese in 1767. The story in "The Ramakian" is the same as in "The Ramayana" but names, locations, weapons and descriptions are adjusted to take into account Thai realities.

King Rama I, who is recognized as the founder of the modern Thai state was also an accomplished poet. As the new palace was being constructed in Bangkok in the style of the previous palace in Ayutthaya, he also supervised the writing of the "Ramakian". He actually wrote some of the episodes himself. As the palace was being constructed and the Thai version of the epic was being written down, 178 murals at Wat Phra Kaeo were also started. The purpose of the murals were to help communicate to people the virtues exemplified in the epic.

"The Ramakian" has a very strong influence on Thai literature, dance, art, and drama. It is considered to be a Thai masterpiece and is read, and taught in Thai schools.

Shan People

It has been a busy but very pleasant past three days here in Udonthani. The weather has cooled off a little and the highs for the day is in the high 80s F to low 90s F rather than the previous mid and high 90s. There still has not been any rain.

We have been very busy with the new grand baby (one month old) visiting with his parents. He is a very good baby - never cries, very attentive, and quite entertaining with all his little noises and faces. House guests like his parents are always welcomed - they do the cooking, yard work, and helped rearrange furniture.

Now to today's topic - "Shan People". I have previously written about the Hill Tribes of Northern Thailand - the Karen, Lisu, Akha, Hmong, Lahu, Kayaw, and Paduang. There are other peoples who immigrated and now inhabit Northern Thailand. One of these people are the "Shan".

The Shan people also known as "Tai Yai" are believed to have originated in China like so many of the other groups that eventually found their way into Thailand and settled. They entered into Thailand from NE Burma (Shan State of Myanmar). Because the Shan typically live in valleys they are not considered to be a Hill Tribe people. In 1830, arriving to work the large teak forests of that time, the Shan founded Maehongson (Mae Hong Son) and today constitute the majority of the local population.

Due to Maehongson's remoteness up to recent times, the Shan in the area have been able to maintain their culture, dress, and traditions without too much dilution from central Thailand people or government.

The Shan people in Myanmar are in conflict with the military dictatorship. There is a Shan Army that battles the Myanmar Army. As is always the case in these situations, the Shan civilian population is caught up in the conflict. The Myanmar government persecutes and oppresses the Shan people within their borders. Refugees continue to flee their homeland.

Like the vast majority of Thai people, Shans are Buddhists and like the Lao Loum people of Isaan there is a very large component of animism in their beliefs as well as their practices.

Shan architecture is very distinctive in the Maehongson area and is very similar to the style of Burma in particular the Shan State. "Tai Yai" architecture consists of many unique components readily visible in Shan temples. The temples are built of wood, have galvanized corrugated metal or small tile roofs, and very intricate galvanized sheet metal filigree trim along roof edges.

This picture is of a Shan temple in the "Tai Yai" style. I first saw it during my first trip in October 2006 but it was not until a return trip in December that I was able to stop and photograph it in the light of the golden hour.

One of the traditions that has been retained by the Shan in Maehongson area is Poy Sang Long ordination ceremony. Young boys 7 years old to 14 years old are ordained as novice Buddhist Monks. For a short period of time they study the Buddhist doctrine. Like the Buddhist followers in Isaan their ordination earns for the young boy's parents.

The celebration takes place for four days. The young boys called "luk kaeo" (jewel sons)dressed up in elaborate clothes, wear jewelry and wear heavy makeup on their face to resemble celestrial princes. There are many processions where the "luk kaeo" are carried upon the shoulders of their father or elder brothers through the town. Traditional music, Shan foods, and traditional dancing are all part of the great celebration.

This year the celebration is from 31 March until 03 April.

It should be a unique photography event. Duang and I will be there.

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market - Love it or Hate It

The floating market, Talat Naam (Water Market) or Talat Klong (Canal Market), of Damnoen Saduak is an extremely popular tourist attraction in Thailand. It is located 106KM (60 miles) southwest of Bangkok in the primarily agricultural Ratchaburi Province. It takes approximately 2 hours from Bangkok or 4 hours from Pattaya to get to the market.


The surrounding area of the market is filled with many small farms and orchards producing vegetables, coconuts, bananas, oranges, grapes, pomelos, and my favorite - mangoes. The fertile land is low lying and crisscrossed with canals that provide irrigation for the crops and easy access routes to markets.


One route to Damnoen Saduak passes by the salt flats. Large shallow ponds are created by using short earthen walls to entrap the natural brackish water of Bangkok Bay. These ponds are allowed to successively evaporate over a period of time to create a layer of salt. The salt is harvested and sent to market. Like so many other areas of Thailand, this section of road is filled with small stands and booths were you can buy bags of the various grades of harvested salt. It is interesting, even after 3 hours of riding from Pattaya, to see this from a speeding minivan. Someday we will go back on our own to tour and photograph this specialized process.

The floating market at Damnoen Saduak is not the only floating market in Thailand or even in the Bangkok area. There are some factors that are the cause of its popularity and, for some people, excessive commercialization. The biggest factor leading to its popularity is that it is open every day of the week from 6:00 AM to around 11:00 AM. There are other floating markets but some of them are open only on weekends or "Sat, Sun, and 2nd, 7th, &12th days of the waxing and waning moon". Buddhists are very familiar and their lives are synchronized with the lunar calendar but I doubt that many Westerners, i.e. tourists, including myself, have any clue as to which days are "2nd, 7th. & 12th days of the waxing and waning moon" of any given month. This cuts down on the availability of these markets for busloads of tourists. Another floating market that I have heard of is opened on certain days of the month coinciding with a high tide at the appropriate time. This market can only be reached by boat so the time of the high tide is critical to getting there and getting back. This is much too complicated for paying hoards of tourists.

Another factor that contributes to Damnoen Saduak's popularity is accessibility. The market is readily accessible to cars and buses. Main roads connect the market to population and tourist centers of the region. There are large parking lots next to the market. There is a bridge over the narrow canal where you can stand and photograph the floating market without ever getting near the water. Each side of the canal is flanked by covered areas that provide protection from sun and rain.

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market can be accessed two different ways - one by land and two by sea. Whoops - I am getting confused that was Paul Revere's warning for the British coming. In Damnoen Saduak you will find Russians, Poles, Indians, Chinese, Koreans, Americans, Japanese, and just about any other nationality along with the British. There is no need for warnings of their coming - they do everyday around 8:00 to 9:00 AM.


Many of the tourists and you can to arrive at the market aboard long tail tour boats. These are long and narrow wood boats with high bows powered by a propeller on the end of a long shaft attached to a recycled car engine. They are loud, often smelly and I find them to be a lot of fun. They carry about 6 to 8 passengers each or you can rent one for just yourself. As most things are in Thailand - they are available for a price. The price is not necessarily the price quoted or asked at first - buyer be aware or is it buyer beware? I prefer "aware" because "beware" evokes fear and most likely will prevent you from proceeding whereas "aware" implies knowledge for you to make informed decisions to take full advantage of available opportunities. As is said so often here - "UP2U"


You typically board the long tail boat some distance from the floating market. The boat tour lasts about an hour before depositing you at the land portion of the Talat Klong or Talat Naam. The boat tour travels through the matrix of canals and passes by orchards, homes, and water side shops. You get a close eyed glimpse into river life. The sanitary conditions of the water and shores may be of some concern to certain people but the experience is reality. This is the way and how the people live. Seeing and experiencing these things is one of the points of travel. You don't have to like or approve of it but you should at least experience it first hand.


The long tail boats deposit their passengers at one of two large covered galleries on each side of a canal. These buildings house countless shops, restaurants, booths, vendors, and touts. Everyone has something to sell and they expect you to buy it. The corridors through the gauntlet of vendors and tables of goods are very narrow and packed with other tourists. There are no bargains here but hopefully you did not go to purchase things at the Floating Market. The point of going to the floating market is the experience.

Another way to arrive at the Floating Market is by a small wood boat that you can rent for a specified amount of time. These boats carry 2 to 3 passengers and are typically paddled by a woman wearing traditional farmer's clothing with the area's unique straw hat. These small boats take you into the floating market. You actually become part and participate in the total market experience. Your boat as well as all the others will choke the waterway between the two covered galleries. It is important to keep everything such as hands, fingers, and arms inside the boat because the boats often come into contact with each other - not violently but more of a sliding or banging motion that would still hurt pinched appendages.

Once again it is the experience that matters. The "real" floating market for the locals is pretty much over by the time the tourists arrive around 8:00 AM. However the ambiance remains until the market peters out around 11:00 AM. I have been there four times - 3 as part of a tour and once as an independent traveller. I enjoyed all the visits. I can not say which is the better way to experience the attraction. For me, my favorite experience was as an independent traveller.




Duang and I arrived by personal vehicle and toured the land portion of the market by foot. When the crowds got to us we would just sit on the stone steps leading down to the canal or grab a seat at a food booth to enjoy a cool drink. We ended up sitting on the stone steps to enjoy our early lunch. We ate freshly prepared "kanom kow" (some type of filled turnover). An elderly woman prepared and cooked them in her small wood boat. They were cheap and delicious. For drinks we had two green coconuts - cool and refreshing. All the while our meal was being prepared I got to photograph the goings on of the floating market - up close and relaxed. Later we rented one of the small boats and entered the fray.

Our small boat took us into the center of the floating market. We were surrounded by boats filled with bananas, rose apples, pineapples, papaya, soft drinks, hats, clothing, umbrellas and assorted prepared foods. Often we could not move due to the congestion of vendor boats and other tourist boats. No matter the case there were scenes to photograph at every turn of the head. It was a very good people watching venue. For me the highlight was stopping along side a boat selling a special Thai dessert - Rice, Mango, and sweetened Coconut Milk. Duang fed me this fantastic dish as we were paddled out of the floating market madness into more tranquil areas of the canal complex.

Our boat took us into smaller canals where the long tail boats could not access. Along these canals there were homes and small shops along the canal bank. Colorful hammocks were hung in the bright sun awaiting a buyer. Food vendors with the small children that they were caring for were set up along the canal banks. The sights, sounds, and smells of ordinary daily life along the klongs were readily apparent as we meandered along. It was a very memorable and pleasant experience - the entire day.

Each part of the day had offered its unique opportunities and experiences that we made sure that we took full advantage of.





Is it a place for everyone? I believe so, but then again it is and will always be "UP2U"

Devotion

My travels, whether for pleasure or for work, have given me the opportunity to witness as well as to experience several deeply moving events. Typically these have been related to religious rituals, celebrations, and observations. I have experienced Christian, Muslim, Pagan, Buddhist, Animist, and Hindu religious events.


I have previously written about the self mutilation of the Mar Songs during the Phuket Vegetarian Festival. Just yesterday some Thai friends were visiting and asked to see photos of the event. When I was asked why the people pierced their bodies with all sorts of objects. I explained that the Mar Song utilize the mutilations as testimony to the strength of their gods. They asked me if I believed. It is difficult to say that you do not believe in a religion that others are so passionate about. I have seen things happen that I can not explain but that does not mean that I believe. What I do is respect as well as admire the faith and passion of the believers. They are living their life to the fullest extent and with passion.


Witnessing the strength of peasant people's faith in the Cathedral in Cusco Peru during the feast of Corpus Christi was inspiring to me.


I was moved at the sight of a newly ordained Buddhist Monk exiting the ceremonial hall into the early and cold morning seeking his daily meal. As he walked down the stairs he was encountered by his parents and grandparents who gave him his first offerings in his new life as a Monk. The son and grandson of the previous day had been elevated to a position of reverence and deep respect through the century's old ritual of ordination. His choice to become a Monk had earned merit for his parents - merit that will be considered in determining their status in future lives.


Watching the reenactment of Inca ceremonies in Peru impressed upon me our need for hope, direction, pageantry as well as answers in our daily life.


Ramadan and the Feast of Eid al Fitr which celebrates the end of Ramadan are testaments to the faith and devotion of the adherents. These religious events bind them to their ancestors over many centuries while providing a direction into the future.


I have witnessed Animist ceremonies and rituals here in Isaan and with ethnic minorities throughout Thailand. Again the steadfast faith and confidence in their beliefs provided solutions, and resolutions to the participants.


While in Malaysia, I was able to observe some Hindu rituals and pilgrimages. Once again the passion and devotion of the believers was inspiring.

While in Brasil, I attended a celebration of Corpus Christi in the colonial town of Lapa in the state of Parana. Lapa is a small town with approximately 41,000 people not very far from Curitiba. The center of Lapa is very quaint with cobblestone streets and colorful homes in the Portuguese colonial style. I refer to Lapa as the "Alamo of Brasil". In the early 1890's there was a rebellion against the Republican government of Brasil. Approximately 600 Lapa rebels held out against over three thousand Federal soldiers for almost a month. This delaying tatic bought time for the rebels to organize and prepare to defeat the Federal troops in a subsequent battle. A monument in Lapa honors the sacrifice of the defenders of Lapa.


My friend and I drove out to Lapa to witness the unique way that the feat of Corpus Christi is celebrated. In Lapa there is a large cathedral on a hill. This church is where the people worship now a days. The original church, much smaller and very much older is located in the lower central part of the town. Paved streets and a wide boulevard with a wide divider of vegetation connect the two churches.

We arrived early in the morning to witness the preparations for the celebration of the Feast. At the end of the mass at the large cathedral, there is a large procession to transport the Holy Eucharist to the historical church in the city center. The procession walks the entire route on top of religiously inspired paintings made out of colored saw dust, grains, flowers and leaves. Religious pictures out of prayer books, Bibles, Gospels, and masterpieces are used as guides as well as inspirations for the paintings. The finished paintings provide a profusion of color, symbolism, and inspiration upon which the believers trek. Along the path, people set up small altars as shrines and offerings.


The altars are small tables, often elaborately carved wood, with intricate lace or embroidered cloths covering them. Typically there is an open Bible or Gospel on the table flanked by two elaborate candle holders, vase or two of fresh cut flowers, a crucifix, and a statue. The priests carrying the Holy Eucharist stop, pray, and give blessings at these alters along the way.

Other residents along the route, place make shift shrines in their windows using most of the items used at the alters along with a religious painting or picture. The entire route is lined with an out pouring of religious faith and devotion.

We walked along the edges of the procession being careful not to walk upon the artwork. The true believers walked with the priests upon the completed art work. The procession was large and walked the route with a very deliberate and reverent pace.

Once again a religious observance had provided a passionate moment along my journey in this life. The character and culture of a people and a nation were demonstrated in the devotion to their faith and religious zeal.

It was an experience that has been repeated many times and in many places. All of them proving that no matter how different we appear to be, we are very much alike.

Thailand Elephant Encounters

Thailand has many attractions to visit and enjoy whether you are a tourist or a resident. The off shore islands are famous for their beaches and beautiful waters. It is not surprising that many international class resorts have been developed to exploit the natural beauty of the islands.




Bangkok is a large international capital city with certain charms and quaintness that appeals to all types of visitors. We have been there several times and still do not believe that we know the city. After 5 trips to the Grand Palace, I am only now beginning to understand it. It never seems like you can take a long tailed boat tour of the Thonburi canals too many times. Each tour surprises you with different sights, sounds, smells and experiences.




Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai offer smaller provincial cities with rich histories and architecture. Many days can be pleasantly spent exploring and photographing these culturally rich locations.




Another attraction that Thailand has to offer is elephants. Elephants are important parts of Thai culture, religion, and history. The elephant was part of the Siam (predecessor to Thailand) national flag for many years. The White Elephant remains a symbol of divine Royal power. In historic times the number of white elephants held by a SE Asian King determined his power in the eyes of his neighbors. Today the King of Thailand has 10. Although he is the only King in the region, the powerful symbolism of the white elephant has not been lost by all of his neighbors. The military regime in Burma did a national search a few years ago to obtain white elephants and maintains 4 in captivity.




There are around 2,600 domesticated elephants in Thailand today. During the good and bad old days, the King would have up to 20,000 war elephants at his command. The King needed all that he could get for the history of Siam/Thailand as well as SE Asia is a long history of wars. The elephants are found throughout the country. I have seen elephants walking along the roads here in Isaan, Pattaya, Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Maehongson, and Phuket. I have heard of elephants blocking traffic in the streets of Bangkok.

Rather than wandering aimlessly around the countryside looking for the elephants, or waiting endlessly for an elephant to pass you bye and it could be a long ordeal in both cases since there are only 2,600 in the entire country, you can go to the elephants.




Elephants perform in simulated battles at cultural shows. There are botanical gardens and farms that have resident elephants that perform. The elephant shows typically include the animals bowling, dancing, playing basketball, playing soccer, and creating paintings. The shows often include the elephants interacting with selected members of the audience. The interaction usually is in the form of an elephant or two picking up the person and giving them a ride or perhaps giving the person a massage while they are laying on the ground. It might only be my imagination but it seems like the only people that get selected are young blond buxom women who are on the verge of falling out of their blouses. I guess that even the mahouts (handlers)who perform the same show every 2 hours three to four times a day seven days a week need some entertainment of their own.




There is an internationally famous elephant round up in Surin each year. The most accessible locations to interact with elephants are at elephant camps.

Elephants were used in the harvesting of teak and other exotic woods in Thailand's dense forests for many years. Due to economic and political pressures (less places for Communists to hide), the forests were decimated. With the introduction of conservation measures, many of the working elephants and their handlers became unemployed. Some elephants remain working and can be occasionally be seen walking to and from their work sites hauling their heavy logging chains on their backs. Just like unemployed semi-skilled people, the elephants along with their handlers migrated to the cities to try to make a living. Think in terms of the person at the freeway exit with a cardboard sign, or the people who wash your windshield while you are stopped in traffic and then expect payment. This was not an acceptable situation for anyone. In response to the problem, camps in the countryside were set up to maintain the elephants and their handlers through revenues generated by tourism. Elephants can work for up to 40 years so the solution is for the long run.

Today the camps provide the opportunity for elephants and their mahouts to earn a living. Mahouts handle a single elephant for life - either the elephant's or the man's life. Since the life expectancy of an elephant is approximately that of a man (especially of the man does not have a motorbike) often a mahout's son will finish the work that his father had started.

There are three ways that a mahout controls his elephant. The first way is by verbal commands. Elephants are intelligent and respond well to human verbal communication.

Another method the mahout uses to control his animal is to use his feet and legs to apply pressure to various parts of the elephant's body.

The last method available to the mahout is his prod. The prod is a short wood stick with a steel hook on the end. The mahout taps parts of the elephant to communicate what and how the next task is to be done.

Besides handling his elephant, the mahout is also responsible for feeding, cleaning and watching over the elephant's health. They are a team whether logging in the forests or performing in the arenas

At the camps you have the opportunity to pose with an elephant (even if you are afraid) and to go on an elephant trek. Elephant treks are also available at the farms and gardens but at the camps you trek through more realistic terrain. At some camps you even get to cross a river while atop an elephant.

Isaan Area Back Roads

Driving along the roads of Isaan presents a series of challenges as well as "surprises"

Having developed a certain familiarity with driving on the left hand side of the road is not the conclusion of adapting to driving in Isaan. Isaan is an agricultural area so many of the roads traverse fields and farming villages. Although the roads are typically paved, there are many dirt roads or partially paved roads that add to the challenges of driving here.

In areas where sugar cane is grown and along the country routes to the sugar refineries, the roads are seriously degraded. The large and heavily laden trucks hauling cane breakdown the pavement very similar to the breakdown of roads in northern climates due to frost heaves. The soil in Isaan is mostly clay which is not a very good engineered fill material. Houses and roads are built upon elevated sections of land created by backfilling upon clay with more clay. These elevated portions of ground are not resistant to infiltration of moisture or worse yet - errosion by rains during the rainy season. I was advised not to buy a home that had not weathered at least two rainy seasons. Some newer houses have cracks and settlement issues during the first two rainy seasons due to improper backfilling operations.


The United States has areas with similar soil conditions as in Isaan but utilizes different construction methods to ensure adequate structural soil base for roads and homes. In Louisiana, oyster shells, lime stabilization, geo-textile fabrics, and importation of granular engineered fill materials are used in combination to provide structural integrity.


Here in Isaan the techniques used in Louisiana are too expensive if they are even available. After the heavy haul season, which will end in about 4 months, the roads will be repaired. They will be repaired by removing the damaged pavement, filling in the ruts with more dirt, compacting the backfill, blading the surface to required contour, and paving with asphalt. This will provide a fairly nice road until next year when it will all have to be redone - just like this year.


The ruts, dips, and in some spots - holes create a maze and challenge for driving. When I first started driving here, I seemed to hit every road hazard that there was. Now my driving skill has evolved to the point where I can dodge just about all of the hazards. Dodging involves swerving or driving in the wrong lane along with driving on the shoulder to avoid obstacles.


Now that we are in the dry season, large clouds of dust are kicked up as you motor along the roads out to the villages. Young women driving motorbikes have adopted a technique of squinting their eyes, covering their mouth and nose with one hand as they drive with the other hand. The young boys, in general, just tough it out.


Just outside of a local village the road has been undermined by running water creating a fairly large as well as deep hole that encroaches into 1/3 of the road lane. When the hole first appeared about 9 months ago, one of the villagers placed a broken tree branch in the road as a warning ahead of the hazard. In Thailand as well as Malaysia, broken branches are used to warn motorists of disabled vehicles or road hazards. As you drive along and see a fresh tree branch in the road, you need to watch out. The use of the broken branch is a good idea except that most of the time it is only 10 to 20 feet from the hazard - you see and have react to the branch at the same time as the hazard. Now that the hole in road has been there for 9 months the villager no longer sets out broken branches. A more permanent warning has been installed for the dangerous hazard - a long bamboo stick has been placed in the hole. The bamboo pole protrudes about 5 feet out of the deep hole.

As you drive along avoiding all the road surface hazards, you must be aware of the surrounding traffic sharing or in some cases usurping the road. Along the country roads there are many farm vehicles similar to trucks. These vehicles, called "etan", transport workers to and from the fields as well as tools along with harvest. They are always slowly moving no doubt due to the small (lawn tractor sized diesel engine) engine that powers them. As they move down the road they make a "tuk, tuk, tuk" sound. They are not pretty. They are not fast. But they are reliable. I have yet to find one broken down along side of the road. One of my favorite sights here is to see one of these running down the road with the driver's wide brimmed bright yellow straw hat with the brim flipped up vertically in the front from the breeze with 6 to 12 family members of all ages standing in the back cab on their way back home after a long day in the fields. These farm vehicles are a menace only in that they are so slowly moving.

As you drive in addition to all the motorbikes, driven by 12 to 80 year olds, you will encounter three wheeled motorcycles called "somlaws". Somlaws are used for just about all purposes. They are used like taxis to take people to where they want to go. Some people own a somlaw rather than a motorbike or car. At the markets you will find many somlaws parked waiting to be hired. Somlaw drivers like most people here carry cell phones and can be called for door to door service. There are no posted rates. The price of your journey needs to negogiated and agreed to prior to departure. The charges are reasonable - one way within Udonthani limits is around $2. We pay the somlaw driver that comes to our home, takes us into town for shopping, and brings us back - $6.00 USD for our 2 to 3 hour trip. On main roads there are locations will congregate. These locations are where people get off of songeaws (songtels). The songeaws are pickup trucks that have a canopy and two benches in the pickup bed for passengers. The songeaws travel a set route. The trucks have a number as well as color that specifies the route that they travel. Duang and I have traveled fro Udonthani to Tahsang Village entirely by songeaw - a journey of 30 miles for 50 baht ($1.43 USD) each - one way. It is a very economical way to travel but slow. It takes 2 hours whereas I drive it in 1 hour. It is reassuring though to know that if we did not have a vehicle we could still get around even if it is slow.

Regular trucks drive the back roads of Isaan. But, this being Thailand, "regular" is a relative term. Just as in the case of songeaws where I have seen 20 people riding in the back, outside of the back, AND ON TOP OF THE PICKUP BED CANOPY, passengers, sometimes ride outside of the cab of trucks. There appears to be no problem in this behavior. The police stop mostly motorbikes for lack of helmet by the DRIVER (Passengers are apparent exempt from the requirement), and to check for the appropriate license. Cars are stopped mainly for driving in the passing lane without actually passing anyone (Yes,I was guilty as charged - 200 baht, $6.00 USD fine "on the spot") or speeding.

Besides the other vehicles you encounter livestock along Isaan roads. All cattle here are "free range". There are no feed lots for cattle. The cattle with their herder wander about from early morning until sunset foraging for feed. The cattle consider the road to be an intigral part of their territory. They have a great deal of practise in that they do not panic when they encounter any type of motorized vehicle on the road. They continue at their determined pace in crossing the road or in their ambulation along the side of the road oblivious to the speed, size, or number of vehicles trying to get by them.

Sometimes you will come across an "etac". Etacs are versatile devices. I refer to them as mechanical mules. They can be used to plow and prepare the ground for planting. A compartment can be added to them to transport goods or in this case a family and their best friends. These vehicles which are much smaller, and slower than the etans share the road with everything else. As you drive your full sized pickup truck you execute all kinds of twists, turns, swerves, accelerations, and deaccelerations to avoid the roadway challenges as well as perils.

With this being Isaan, it all seems to work out somehow rather harmoniously. You don't get upset to see someone coming straight at you in your lane. You pull slightly over to make way for him and they only take what they need of your lane to get around whatever is in their lane. Lane designations are more of a suggestion in people's minds than a territorial demarkation. Everyone gives and takes without emotion as required by the current situation. To avoid having to travel a little out of their way to find a turnaround along the road, some people driving any and all types of vehicles will travel in the wrong lane towards on coming traffic. They do this in the breakdown or shoulder along the road so as far as I can tell (so far) head on collisions are avoided. I have become comfortable to expect the unexpected here and I am seldom left unamazed at what passes for driving

Duang has remarked that I drive good in Thailand now. She then smiles and adds that I will need to be afraid, and the police will complain when I drive again in America.

I believe that she is right. It will be different.