Shan People

It has been a busy but very pleasant past three days here in Udonthani. The weather has cooled off a little and the highs for the day is in the high 80s F to low 90s F rather than the previous mid and high 90s. There still has not been any rain.

We have been very busy with the new grand baby (one month old) visiting with his parents. He is a very good baby - never cries, very attentive, and quite entertaining with all his little noises and faces. House guests like his parents are always welcomed - they do the cooking, yard work, and helped rearrange furniture.

Now to today's topic - "Shan People". I have previously written about the Hill Tribes of Northern Thailand - the Karen, Lisu, Akha, Hmong, Lahu, Kayaw, and Paduang. There are other peoples who immigrated and now inhabit Northern Thailand. One of these people are the "Shan".

The Shan people also known as "Tai Yai" are believed to have originated in China like so many of the other groups that eventually found their way into Thailand and settled. They entered into Thailand from NE Burma (Shan State of Myanmar). Because the Shan typically live in valleys they are not considered to be a Hill Tribe people. In 1830, arriving to work the large teak forests of that time, the Shan founded Maehongson (Mae Hong Son) and today constitute the majority of the local population.

Due to Maehongson's remoteness up to recent times, the Shan in the area have been able to maintain their culture, dress, and traditions without too much dilution from central Thailand people or government.

The Shan people in Myanmar are in conflict with the military dictatorship. There is a Shan Army that battles the Myanmar Army. As is always the case in these situations, the Shan civilian population is caught up in the conflict. The Myanmar government persecutes and oppresses the Shan people within their borders. Refugees continue to flee their homeland.

Like the vast majority of Thai people, Shans are Buddhists and like the Lao Loum people of Isaan there is a very large component of animism in their beliefs as well as their practices.

Shan architecture is very distinctive in the Maehongson area and is very similar to the style of Burma in particular the Shan State. "Tai Yai" architecture consists of many unique components readily visible in Shan temples. The temples are built of wood, have galvanized corrugated metal or small tile roofs, and very intricate galvanized sheet metal filigree trim along roof edges.

This picture is of a Shan temple in the "Tai Yai" style. I first saw it during my first trip in October 2006 but it was not until a return trip in December that I was able to stop and photograph it in the light of the golden hour.

One of the traditions that has been retained by the Shan in Maehongson area is Poy Sang Long ordination ceremony. Young boys 7 years old to 14 years old are ordained as novice Buddhist Monks. For a short period of time they study the Buddhist doctrine. Like the Buddhist followers in Isaan their ordination earns for the young boy's parents.

The celebration takes place for four days. The young boys called "luk kaeo" (jewel sons)dressed up in elaborate clothes, wear jewelry and wear heavy makeup on their face to resemble celestrial princes. There are many processions where the "luk kaeo" are carried upon the shoulders of their father or elder brothers through the town. Traditional music, Shan foods, and traditional dancing are all part of the great celebration.

This year the celebration is from 31 March until 03 April.

It should be a unique photography event. Duang and I will be there.