Friday 15 October 2010 - Fire Walking

A Ban Neow Ma Song Fire Walks

Friday morning was rainy.  During an early morning lull in the rain, we headed out to the wet market.  We were out on the streets at 7:00 A.M. so Duang was able to earn merit by offering food to a Monk who was making his alms walk.  She may have earned some merit but her good deed did nothing to improve the weather situation.  We got just about one-half of the way there when the rains started up again.  We had brought our rain jackets and an umbrella so using them and taking advantage of balconies as well as canopies we arrived at the wet market relatively dry.  The market was not anything special but it offered protection from the rain.  We spent some time and took only a few photographs.

It rained fairly hard on our return to the hotel.  After waiting for the rain to diminish somewhat, we walked over to the procession route to observe the devotees from Kathu Shrine parade through town.  I took only about 41 photographs due to the inclement weather and fatigue setting in from combating the weather. Thinking that the procession was finished at 9:30 A.M., we returned to the hotel.  In reality it was only a brief respite in the procession, it continued on to late in the morning.

We spent the afternoon as we had spent the previous afternoons - in our room watching television, napping, and writing in my journal.  The weather continued to be horrible - I was actually beginning to contemplate the possibility that our flight the next afternoon would be cancelled.  The combination of wind and rain often reduced visibility to 300 meters.

One of my goals on this trip was to photograph the fire walking ritual.  We had not attempted to witness the previous scheduled fire walking rituals or sword ladder climbing due to bad weather.  I had attempted to photograph fire walking two years ago but failed due to a combination of distance and lack of light.  This year I had a new camera which is far superior for taking pictures in low light conditions.  In addition, the Ban Neow Shrine venue is much more intimate than the previous Saphan Hin location.


A Phuket Tuk-Tuk Taxi


The fire walking ritual was scheduled to commence at 8:00 P.M. so we left our hotel at 6:00 P.M.  We took a Tuk-Tuk, a small (very small) truck taxi to the Ocean Shopping Mall which is very close to Ban Neow Shrine.  We had dinner at the Pizza Company, Thailand's knock-off of Pizza Hut, and walked the remaining short distance to the shrine.



Devotees Tend the Large Wood Fire in the Ban Neow Shrine Courtyard

 Ban Neow is a small shrine in the heart of the commercial district of Phuket Town.  The front courtyard of the shrine was just about completely barricaded off to form a large rectangle.  In the middle of the barricaded area area was a very large wood fire.  When we first arrived, the fire was about a meter and a half, 4 feet, high.  Occasionally eight men would drag a wide board across the coals and embers to flatten as well as to spread out the fire.  They also used the same board and bamboo pole assembly to tamp down the coals to form a dense bed of coals.  The men wore white clothing as is required of participants during the festival along with tee shirts or towels that had been drenched in water as some protection from the fire.  Interestingly, most of the men were barefoot.

Devotees Spread Out The Coals In Preparation for Fire Walking Ritual

We arrived just in time.  The courtyard was rapidly filling up we spectators.  We ended up 3 people back from the metal barricade at the lower right hand corner of the rectangle - at one of the four altars set up in each of the corners.  We were not there very long when the rains began - once again.  The Public Address announced that the coming one hour before the start of the fire walking was a good omen.  She was 1/2 right it was an omen but not a good omen!    We had arrived prepared for rain - we each had a rain jacket, hat and umbrella.  We had brought one of the large hotel umbrellas from our room.  We put on our rain jacket and I placed my camera underneath my jacket.  Some men moved some large beach umbrellas from the refreshment booths over to protect the crowd along the barricade.  It was my good fortune to be directly beneath the center of one of the umbrellas.

We had been talking and joking with the people around us, so we gave our umbrellas to the people at the barricade who had no protection from the rain.  I tried to collect rent for the use of umbrellas but the people knew that I was only joking.  There were at least three showers, some of them with strong wind gusts, prior to the start of the fire walking ritual.  There were several announcements to be aware and on alert to pick pockets.  Surprisingly the warning was specifically warning about child pick pockets.  There were no children around us and my wallet was in in my front pants pocket underneath my rain coat.  Duang also was keeping a good lookout over me.

The announcer also warned that people born in the year of the snake or monkey to not look at the ritual.  This was in addition to the warning to menstruating women (Duang's "friend" was no longer visiting so she was safe), pregnant women, or people who were mourning.  No warnings other than being born in the year of the snake or monkey applied to falang (foreign) men - so I was good to go - at least in my mind.  I don't know what year I was actually born in.  Since I really wanted to photograph the ritual, I adopted the US Military policy of "Don't ask, Don't tell."  After about one-half of these warnings there was a correction - it was for people born in the year of the D-R-A-G-O-N or Monkey.  It turned out that people born in the year of the snake could watch the ritual after all!  I wonder how many snake people had already left.

Shooting the ritual was a great challenge.  Besides the rain to contend with, everyone was sticking their hand up to shoot photos with their cell phone.  I took several blind shots by extending my arms above my head and eye balling the bottom of my lens to get the angle.  The English language television channel at the hotel had been broadcasting a program about modern day military snipers so I was inspired as well as motivated.  After a while and a big rain shower, 2 people left the metal barricade.  Although somewhat easier, shooting was still a challenge.  Attendants inside of the rectangle were constantly in the way.


Offerings to the Nine Emperor Gods and Spirits Are Made at One of the Altars


The fire walking ritual commenced around 8:15 P.M. due to the adverse weather conditions.  A big part of the pre-ritual preparations was preparing the fire bed.  The attendants ensured that the embers were spread out to form a bed about 3 feet (1 meter) thick.  They also took great efforts to compact the embers to create a dense bed.

Ma Song Throws Prayer Papers On To the Fire

One of the Ma Song was supervising the fire bed preparation.  Other Ma Song came out to pray and make offerings at the altars in the corners of the large barricaded area.  Part of the worship at the altars involved lighting candles and burning wood.  Based upon the copious amount of smoke that I ended up inhaling, I believe the wood was some type of cedar. The Mar Song did some chanting, and would crack the whip that they carried.  You could see that they were working themselves into a trance-like state.

Final Preparations Being Completed

Prayer Papers Burn In Front of a Ma Song



A Ma Song Walks Across the Fire

A Ma Song, who appeared to be a leader, inspected the bed, threw some rice on the embers, and threw some prayer paper on the bed.  The rice popped like popcorn and the paper immediately ignited.  Seemingly satisfied with the preparations, the Ma Song walked to the far end of the fire.  Many other Ma Song were at the far end of the fire awaiting the word to proceed.  Upon the leaders arrival at the far end, the Mar Song commenced walking across the fire.

After the Ma Song completed their fire walking, some of the other devotees walked across the fire under the supervision of the Mar Song.




A Devotee Walks Across the Fire

 We left as the fire walking was coming to a close.  One-half a block from the shrine the sky opened up - the heaviest rains of the trip up to that point.  Fortunately we were clear of the jam packed crowd back at the shrine.  We quickly sought and found shelter under the extended balcony of a store front.  With the heavy rain and ensuing street flooding, it was obvious that we were not going to be walking back to the hotel.

A motorbike pulled up and the operator asked if we wanted a ride.  In Thailand there are four main modes of transportation in urban areas - motorbikes, Tuk-Tuks, Somlaws, and Songthaews or buses.  In Phuket I did not see any somlaws, three wheeled motorcycles, but there were plenty of roving motorbikes offering rides for a negogtiated price.  Motorbikes are involved in many accidents.  With the rain, road conditions, poor lighting, and crowds, I did not want to hop on the back of a small motorbike.  I told Duang that I did not want to ride on a motorbike.  I told her that I was afraid.  She told the motorbike woman.  The motorbike woman told Duang to stay where we were and she would return with a taxi for us.  About five minutes later the motorbike returned followed by a sedan.  The motorbike woman was concerned about me crossing te street and assisted me to cross the street in heavy traffic.  We returned to our hotel safe and sound - thanks to the kindness of a stranger.

Thursday 14 October 2010 - Phuket Vegetarian Festival

Spectators In Front of a 7-11 Store

After a good night's sleep, we were up at 5:00 A.M. to get to Jui Tui Shrine for the morning's preparations for the downtown procession.  I checked outside and was pleased to see that there was no wind.  It also appeared to be no longer raining.  We were dressed and prepared to head out 30 minutes later.

As we exited the hotel, we discovered that although there was no wind, it was raining - not a torrential downpour but enough to dissuade me from risking damage to my photography gear.  We turned around and returned to our room.  The hotel breakfast buffet commences at 6 A. M. so we were able to experience the start of the service as opposed to the close of service the day before.  The buffet had also been switched from the ground floor to the 19th floor of the hotel.

The 19th floor location was a surprise.  Three sides of the 19th floor were just about floor to ceiling glass with views of the city, harbor, Andaman Sea, islands, and surrounding hill sides - provided rain and low clouds did not obscure the visibility.  There was also two doors that lead to an outdoor observation deck.  During our breakfast, I kept an eye on the outside weather.  Since the wet market (so called because seafood, meat, poultry, and vegetables are sold there and having nothing to do with the current weather conditions) was not far from the hotel I harbored the hopes of getting down there for some morning photos.  As we continued our breakfast, the rain only intensified.  We returned to our room to watch some television with one eye on the TV and one eye out the window for the weather.  Around 8:00 the weather seemed to stabilize - somewhat.  The sounds of firecrackers exploding along the procession route and the immediate lack of precipitation were too much for me to resist.  I set up the new camera with the lens that I figured on using the most, I strapped the flash case to my hip, placed a couple of CF cards and a spare battery into my pants pocket, stuck the umbrella into my pants (carefully) like a sword, put on my Goretex rain jacket and headed out.  Duang still not feeling 100% elected to remain in the room.

Firecrackers Explode At the Feet of a Mar Song

I knew that what little gear that I brought with me would be safe and protected under my jacket if the rain returned.  The secret was to get past the two blocks from the hotel to the procession without any rain.  Once at my vantage point, it would all be manageable.  It was the impediment of setting off in the rain that I feared and would have to overcome.  With this being the tropics, local architecture, in general, takes into account the torrential rains.  The buildings have balconies or canopies from the second story that extend almost all the way across the sidewalk.  This sheltered space provides protection from the sun as well as rain.  This sheltered space is also sometimes used as displaying merchandise for some of the businesses.

A Female Devotee Marches in Procession With A Steel Rod Piercing Both Her Cheeks

A Jui Tui Shrine Ma Song and His Attendants March



A Ma Song Causes His Tongue to Bleed With a Sword



Something Different - A Ma Song Eats Burning Wood

My gamble with the weather paid off.  At the three locations where I stopped to take photographs of the morning procession, it only rained twice for short periods of time.  I but more importantly my camera gear were protected by either an extended balcony or canopy.

A Resident Making An Offering to Ma Song

Around 10:00 A.M. I was tired and had 421 new photographs.  I was also once again soaking wet - not from the rain but from perspiration and the increased humidity of wearing a rain jacket while bending, along with squatting to shoot more interesting perspectives of the event.  I decided to head back to the hotel.  Just as I turned the corner to return, I ran into a smiling face - Duang.  She had been looking for me for 1-1/2 hours carrying the remainder of my camera gear.  She had felt guilty about not accompanying me and was concerned that I would need to change my camera or lens so she had set out to find me.  We returned to the hotel together with Duang carrying all the gear.  Fortunately Duang's efforts were not entirely wasted, she got to enjoy the procession just as I was able to do.

Morning Procession Spectator

I spent the remainder of the day writing in my journal, reviewing photos, drying off my gear, and watching both TV and the deteriorating weather.  Duang -  "relaxed" as in napped.

As I wrote earlier, one of the "rules" to be followed was "Pregnant or menstruating women should not attend the ceremonies"  Two hours before we left our home in Udon Thani to go to the airport for the flight to Phuket, Duang's "Friend came to visit" (an expression that I picked up from some Southern good ole boys back in 1971).  On our previous trip for the Festival the weather, other than being hot and blinding sunlight had not been an issue at all.  This trip was completely opposite.  I mentioned to her that I thought that it was because of her that the weather was so terrible.  I was only joking because the rains had actually started days before our arrival.  I suspect that must have been a pregnant woman or two and several other women who had their "friends visiting" attending the ceremonies who had angered the gods.  Is it "Climate Change"?  Or were we just lucky two years ago?

The bad weather forced us to adapt to the situation that we were faced with.  It was a condition that we had no influence or control over.  It did present us with different opportunities than we had expected or hoped for.  Just as in life, we had to make the most of what we were given.  Just as in life we had to make the best of what we had when we had it.  Waiting and hoping for something better to come along or just plain procrastinating were too great a risk on this trip - just as in life.  Every day is to be lived fully, joyfully, and as best you can.

Wednesday 13 October 2010 - Phuket Vegetarian Festival

Mar Song From Ban Neow Shrine Parade Through Phuket Town

We arrived in Phuket the evening of October 12, 2010.  In researching this trip to attend the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, I had been tracking the weather forecasts.  The forecasts were for thunderstorms and 20 to 60% possibilities of rain for each day of our stay.  Two years ago we had spent 7 days in Phuket and had about one hour of intense rain one afternoon during a thunderstorm.  Based upon that experience and our knowledge of brief daily rains here in Isaan during the monsoon season , the Phuket forecast was not a major concern.  We brought an umbrella and two Goretex rain jackets as a precaution.

One half of the way from the Phuket International Airport to our hotel in Phuket Town it began to rain. By the time that we went to bed, there was a hurricane outside - well not really a hurricane but definitely squall lines raking across the city.  There were horizontal rains and winds around 60 to 70 KPH.  The wind continued all night and it rained most of the night - due to the wind we were asleep at 10:30, 12:00, 1:30, and 3:30.

Tuesday morning, I woke up at 5:00 A.M.  I could hear the the wind outside but I did not hear any rain.  I opened the curtains on both sides of our room and although it was very dark, I could tell that it was not raining.  I could also tell that there was a very ugly sky - fast moving storm clouds - but it was not raining!   Duang and I showered and prepared to get to Ban Neouw Shrine by 6:00 A.M. for the preparation of the Mar Song for the morning's 7:00 A.M. procession.

A Mar Song Pierced By An Umbrella As Well As Steel Skewers

Ban Neow Shrine was close to our hotel so we decided to walk over to the shrine.  Quickly all the sights from 2 years ago came back to us.  We had walked the same area before on our last visit to Phuket.  The shrine is near the large morning market - about 4 or 5 blocks from our hotel.  the morning market was very busy as we passed by.  Fish, meat, vegetables, along with hard goods and household items were being shopped and sold.  The route for the upcoming procession became apparent as we walked towards the shrine.  Merchants together with residents along the procession route had set up altars outside of their businesses and homes for the Mar Song to stop at.



A Ma Song Delivers A Blessing At A Local Altar

 Ma Song through their pain and suffering from piercings and self mortification are believed to be able to take away bad luck and evil of others as well as for the community thus ensuring them good luck as well as success during the up coming year.  To assist in the departure of evil and bad spirits, people and especially businesses will ignite firecrackers to scare off the evil as well as any bad spirits.  We were told that in front of one local gold exchange, 100,000 firecrackers were exploded.

Just as on our previous visit to the Phuket Vegetarian Festival, I found myself in the middle of one of the firecracker barrages.  For a former young boy who loved the smell of gun caps, this was pure ecstasy.  Five hours after the procession had ended as I was writing in my journal, the smell of sulfur and the other components of gunpowder was still discernible on our bodies and clothing.

We arrived at Ban Neow Shrine around 6:00 A.M., but it was too late to stake out prime territory at any of the Ma Song piercing stations scattered about the shrine courtyard.  Each station was surrounded by 4 to 6 deep rings of photographers.  Undeterred, I muscled up and sometimes below the myriad cellphone cameras as well as point and shoot cameras to take some shops.  Wednesday was the first of four scheduled morning opportunities to photograph and document the preparations for the processions.



Mar Song Being Pierced By Many Hypodermic Needles





An Assistant Adds Another Row of Needles to a Mar Song



A Ma Song Awaiting the Start of the Procession

As the light improved with the passage of time so did the weather.  The wind died down.  The clouds rose higher and became lighter.  By 9:00 A.M. there was actually abundant sunshine.  We never had to use the umbrella or the rain jackets that we had in the camera backpacks for the procession.  I did have to use my floppy hat from the camera backpack for protection from the sun.

Duang was not at 100% strength so I sought and found a great location for both of us.  At a street intersection where the sun was shining on the marchers and at my back, where the procession had to take a 90 degree turn to continue their trek, I found a club named "Fantasea"which had a beer garden at the sidewalk level.  The beer garden was closed but the tables and benches remained outside under a roof.  The location besides being convenient, sheltered and comfortable had full visibility of the street.  It was a great place for Duang to sit and enjoy the procession while I photographed the event 30 feet away in the middle of the street.  An added bonus for this location was that it was directly across from a business that had 8 long bamboo poles from which six to eight foot long strings of firecrackers were dangling.

It was a great morning - 775 photographs of which 709 were with my one year old camera - a new camera since our last Phuket trip.  This might bring up the question of why return to a place that you have been to before.  I have been to Machu Pichuu twice - why?  I had three reasons - 1. I had a new camera with greater capabilities than the previous cameras.  2.  I wanted some specific shots that I did not get during my first visit.  3.  I wanted to experience, enjoy and appreciate the location more fully.  So it also was with my return trips to Yellowstone National Park, Foz do Iguacu, Grand Canyon National Park, Yosemite National Park, Paris, Maehongson, Bangkok, and so many other wonderful locations and events.  So it was with this Phuket Vegetarian Festival.

A Ma Song Possessed By An Emperor God

At the conclusion of the morning's procession, I was soaking wet - not from rain but perspiration.  We returned to our hotel at 10:00 A.M., 2 blocks away from our last procession vantage point.  We arrived at the hotel in time to have the breakfast buffet which stopped serving at 10:30 A.M.  After  showering and changing our clothing, we watched the return of the squalls - wave upon wave of torrential rain and gale force winds that rattle the windows of our room. 

The remainder of the day was spent relaxing in our room and working on my journal.  We were fortunate to not to have to leave the protection of the hotel.

Phuket Vegetarian Festival 2010 - Background

Phuket Vegetarian Festival - Background

Devotees Carrying Shrine Idol Through Phuket Town

We arrived home last night (Saturday 16 October in Thailand) after a 1-3/4 hour direct flight on Air Asia back from Phuket.  The flight besides being economical was a vast improvement over our last journey back from Phuket two years ago - 12 hour; a combination of taxi, plane and bus.

We had spent 4 days and 5 nights in Phuket to observe and photograph the 9 day Phuket Vegetarian Festival.  The Festival, this year started on Friday October 8th and ended on Saturday October 16th.  We arrived Tuesday night and left on Saturday afternoon before the grand closing rituals.

The Vegetarian Festival is Phuket's biggest celebration and is a grand event for Phuket's Chinese community. Phuket was once a large tin mining as well as trading center. The Chinese immigrated to trade and to work in the mines.  Today a large proportion of Phuket's population is Chinese.  During the Vegetarian Festival, there are many ethnic Chinese visitors from throughout Thailand as well as from Malaysia and China.

The Phuket Vegetarian Festival started in the early 19th century.  In 1825, a visiting Chinese opera company, that had visited from China to entertain the tin miners, caught malaria while performing in Kathu. In those days, malaria was often fatal. The opera company decided to adhere to a strict vegetarian diet as an offering to two of the Nine Emperor Gods. The opera company recovered from their illness. The people of Kathu celebrated by holding a vegetarian festival each year to thank the gods and celebrate the opera group's recovery. An additional belief that inspires the festival is to bring good luck to individuals as well to a community.

The festival is held over nine days during the ninth lunar month of the Chinese calender which is usually late September or early October. Two years ago it was held from 28 September to 7 October.  This year it was October 8 to October 16.

The central belief of the festival is that by eating vegetarian food and observing 10 rules, believers can purify their body as well as their soul while bringing good luck to themselves along with their community.

The 10 rules that believers are supposed to follow are:

     Maintain body cleanliness

     Use only clean kitchenware that hasn't been used by people who are not participating in  the       festival

     Dress in white

     Be moral in thoughts and actions
     Do not eat meat

     Do not have sex

     Do not drink alcohol

     Avoid foods with strong flavor such as garlic and onion

     People in mourning should not participate in the festival

     Pregnant or menstruating women should not attend the ceremonies

During the festival, many rituals are conducted to call upon the gods. These ceremonies include body piercing, fire walking, bathing with hot oil, and climbing ladders constructed with sword rungs. The ceremonies are held at each of the nine Chinese shrines.

The largest rituals are the daily processions of believers during the morning through Phuket Town.  The origins of the processions go back to the early days of the festival when a local resident went to Kansai, China to invite two deities to reside in Kathu, a district of Phuket.  He returned to Phuket on the seventh night of the ninth lunar month.  He brought back with him the sacred documents used in the ritual back in China.  Residents of Phuket had a grand procession down to the dock to welcome him back upon his arrival from China.  Today's processions commemorate his original welcoming ceremony.



A Ma Song From Bang Neow Shrine In Phuket Town

Spiritual Mediums, called "Mar Song", also written as "Ma Song", become possessed by the Nine Emperor Gods. The Mar Song are dressed in clothes befitting the god that has possessed them. People believe that the god will protect the mediums from harm while they perform the various rituals and acts of self mutilation.

Each of the main Chinese shrines parades through Phuket Town on their appointed day during the festival. During the parade the Mar Song demonstrate the power of their respective Emperor God by withstanding the pain of their ordeal. For devotees, the Mar Song through their ordeal, are able to remove evil spirits and can bestow good luck upon others as well as for the community.  With their power and devotion Ma Song are highly respected and revered.  Along the parade route many people and businesses set up tables of offerings to receive blessings from the passing Mar Song.  Long strands of firecrackers are set off as a Mar Song approaches to scare away the evil spirits.  The greater the sound and noise the more effective the ritual of driving the evil spirits away on to the Ma Song.




A Devotee Helping to Carry Shrine Idol



A Shrine Idol Under Bombardment

As the processions advance, huge amounts of firecrackers are set off. The air becomes filled with the sharp staccato of bursting firecrackers, flashes of light, flying shards of bright red firecracker paper wrapping, and huge clouds of choking sulphurous smoke.  The fusillade of firecrackers is especially heavy for the passing of the shrine idol.  The shrine idol is placed on a chair that is carried upon the shoulders of several young men.  The young men wrap shirts around their heads to afford some protection from the onslaught of firecrackers that are thrown at their bare feet or explode above their head from suspended strings.  Power of the Emperor God is manifested in the ability of the young men to not be frightened or injured by the sound, fire, and confusion created by hundreds of firecrackers exploding about them.  Other followers assist the young men when the firecrackers commence small fires on the shrine idol.  They rapidly wave cotton tee shirts around the suspended chair to extinguish the flames.



Ma Song Gives His Blessing to A Resident

The Mar Song are considered to be warriors. Their bodies are typically heavily tattooed - Oriental designs. These tattoos are much more elaborate and sophisticated than the religious body ink that I have seen here in Isaan. The Mar Song are in a trance like state - they appeared to be talking or chanting to themselves with their heads trembling from side to side almost as if they had Parkinson's disease. The trance-like state for some people is attributable to a form of self hypnosis.  For the devotees, the trance is due to possession by an Emperor God.

Free to be ... YOU, Free to be ... ME

Mu Kuhl Formerly of Ban Nai Soi Refugee Camp

Last night, I watched an episode of the television series, "Taboo", dealing with the concepts of body modification and how it relates within a culture's definition of beauty.  I had seen the program before but since it featured several people that we have met along the Myanmar-Thai border, I watched it once more.


Ma Nang Formerly of Ban Nai Soi

 The portion of the program that interested me the most dealt with the Padaung people of the Karen tribe.  The Padaung females are famous for their cultural practice of wrapping brass rods around their necks creating the illusion that they have very long necks.  In reaction to this many outsiders refer to them as "Long Necked Women" or "Giraffe Women".  In reality, the women's necks are not elongated but it is their clavicle which is forced downwards towards their rib cage which creates the illusion of a long neck.

Padaung women have been wearing the brass coils (rings) around their neck for over one thousand years.  The heavy metal coiled around their neck and subsequent body modification is a cultural identity and heritage for the Padaung people.  They, male as well as female, consider the ornamentation and illusion of a long neck to be beautiful.  We have met and spoken to many Padaung women and have yet to hear any Padaung woman state that she did not like wearing the coils or that she had been forced to wear the coils.  To the contrary we have met and spoken to some Padaung women who have chosen not to wear the traditional brass coil around their neck.  Those women had exercised their right and freedom to make their own choice.  Other women have decided to honor their mothers and respect their heritage by deciding to continue the practise of wearing the brass coils.  They, too, have exercised their right and freedom to make their own choice.

In the same refugee camps where you will find Padaung women, you will also find Kayaw women who practise their cultural heritage of extending their ear lobes to be "beautiful".  Ever increasing diameters of disks or tubes are inserted into the ear lobes to elongate them commencing at a young age.  Some of the older women of the Kayaw people wear heavy ear rings to accentuate the length of their ear lobes.


A Young Kayaw Girl



An Elderly Burmese Refugee with Heavy Ear Rings

I support people honoring and respecting their cultural heritage.  I respect this within the context of their culture and in their own land whether or not I agree with or approve of their practises.  What people do, and believe in their own country is none of my business.  Just as I would resist any outside attempts to impose changes or to impose aspects of a foreign culture on my culture, I am confident that our efforts around the world, no matter how "well" intended, are not appreciated.  I expect people to respect my culture.

The program appeared to me to question the practice, the Padaung heritage, of placing brass coils around the neck of women and young girls.  It talked about the discomfort that the coil sometimes causes and how heavy the coils are.  It pointed out the young age.  The film showed scars on the shoulders of some of the women from the coiled brass.  This questioning is typical of many Western programs as well as articles in the Western press.  There seems to be a quasi-moral calling to set the world right - right to our society's standards.

Far from considering these efforts, to be well intentioned and morally motivated actions, I consider them to be tantamount to be cultural imperialism. 


Mar Song At Phuket Vegetarian Festival

My objective in taking photographs is to show the differences between the various peoples and cultures of the world.  I want to celebrate this diversity of mankind.  I do not feel any compulsion or obligation to change another people's culture or practises.  I hope that my photography efforts do not motivate or inspire anyone to run rough shod over another cultures.  In sharing aspects of other cultures I hope to raise awareness and appreciation of how other people live, and what other people believe.  My photographs and blogs are not meant to deride anyone or any culture.



Fresh Meat For Sale In Vietnam

It is arrogant and self centered, in my opinion, to consider that a particular culture, beliefs, and practices are superior to all others.  Having pride and comfort in your culture, beliefs, and practises is entirely justified and should be encouraged but never at the expense of disrespecting others especially within their own country.  The willingness to inform others of your culture by living it and setting a good example is admirable.  A willingness to explain, and teach others about your culture WHEN ASKED is commendable.  A willingness to incorporate desirable aspects of other cultures into your life or culture is wise.


Mar Song Pierced to Demonstrate the Power of His God

 I do not approve of many practices or beliefs that I have encountered in different cultures.  The fact that I or anyone else does not agree with certain practices or beliefs does not give us the right or justify any efforts to change those realities.

My travels and work around the world has exposed me to many different cultures, beliefs, and practises.  My experiences have perhaps given me more of a global view of life.   However I do not consider myself to be a Global Citizen.  To the contrary, I am against One World Government.  Just as diversity is considered to be desirable in flora and fauna, I believe that the diversity of  human culture and traditions are treasures to be protected within a nationalistic environment.

Local solutions by local people for local problems or local issues are the most effective measures that respect the sensibilities and sensitivities of the people affected by the situation. Respecting but not necessarily approving aspects of different cultures is not systematic of weakness or a lack of morality but is the "good neighbor" policy.

People need to be free to be themselves, free to honor their traditions and cultures within their own national borders.  Others don't have to approve of it but they need to at least respect the wishes of the people.  Tolerance and minding their own business will go a great ways towards a less confrontational world.

Bangkok Nikon Sales and Repair - Niks Thailand

After my excellent experience with getting my 28-70mm Nikkor lens repaired at Niks Thailand about a month ago, I decided to have my other two lenses, that I use extensively, repaired.  My 300mm Nikkor was making strange squeaks or rather more like squawking when focusing.  My research over the Internet indicated that this was an indication of pending failure. My other lens, my favorite, Nikkor 80-200mm, has seen a great deal of operation since I purchased it over EBAY a few years ago.  I felt that it was time for it to be inspected, adjusted if necessary, and cleaned.

I had purchased all my lenses on EBAY with very good results both in terms of the price that I paid as well as the quality of the merchandise.  I am certain that they are not stolen merchandise based upon my research on the sellers.  However there is one issue that has always been in the back of my mind.  In the United States all Nikon cameras and lenses are supposed to be imported through Nikon USA.  If a Nikon camera or lens is imported through a source other than Nikon USA it is considered "Grey Market".  "Grey Market" materials cost less than identical products imported by Nikon USA but there is a catch - a significant catch.  "Grey Market" merchandise warranties are not honored by Nikon USA.  Worse yet, Nikon USA which operates authorized Nikon repair facilities in the United States will not repair grey market merchandise - ever - even if you are paying for the work.  There used to be three Nikon Company repair stations in the USA but there are only two now.  Fortunately there are independent repair shops that will repair Nikon products as well as other brands.

On our trip to Bangkok last Tuesday, we brought the lenses to Niks Thailand to be serviced.  I was given a written estimate for each lens and was told that the lenses would be ready the next day.  I informed the representative that we were leaving that afternoon to return to Udonthani.  I indicated that I wanted the lenses returned to me by courier.  From my previous experience, I knew that shipping was included in the estimate.  The representative informed me that it would take longer for me to receive my lenses to which I confirmed it would be one to two weeks.

Last Wednesday, I received a phone call indicating that the lenses were ready for shipment, the final cost of the repairs (both within the original estimates), as well as information for transfering funds from my banking account into Niks's bank account in Bangkok.

Duang and I drove to the local branch of our bank and transferred the required funds to Niks Thailand's account at a different operating bank.  I was charged less than $2 to make the transfer.  Upon returning to our home I scanned the paper transfer receipt and sent it to the representative at Niks as an email attachment.  Thursday morning I received an email response from the representative at Niks indicating that the camera lenses had been packaged and sent to the courier with a scheduled delivery on Monday 4 October.

At 10:30 this morning the Kerry Logistics , sort of Thailand's Fedex company, delivery van pulled up to the curb outside our home.  I went out and signed the receipt, was given a copy of the receipt, and walked away with a sturdy cardboard box containing my lenses.

The shipping box seams were reinforced as well as moisture sealed with mylar shipping tape.  This is a good precaution with the possibilities of encountering heavy rains even in early October.  After I opened the box I encountered a dense mass of shredded paper.  The packing material was recylced office documents.  Beneath the thick pad of packing material, the lenses were securely and safely laying upon another thick pad of shredded paper.  Each lens was inside of its individual plastic bubble wrap envelope inside of its individual plastic shipping envelope.  The long flaps of the bubble wrap were tucked inside the envelope to provide addition moisture protection and protection from physical damage.  Elastic bands held the packing envelopes together.  It was a very impressive package.

The lenses looked brand new.  I took turns placing them on one of my cameras and took some test shots - the lenses focused smoothly, accurately and without disturbing sounds.  The squawck had been replaced by the sound of a precision instrument operating as it was intended when new.

The three lenses are now prepared for upcoming journies and adventures.  I also have found a great place to handle my Nikon service needs here in Thailand.

http://www.niksthailand.co.th/

Book Report - My First One After 47 Years

I wrote the other day that Duang and I had been busy the past week with Immigration Visa application activities.  Besides assembling the Package #3, and traveling to Bangkok to get Duang's Police Certificate from the Embassy or Brunei, we had visitors to our home on Sunday.

Our friends, Kees Sprengers and his wife Dorothy Culloty, stopped by our home in Udonthani on their way to Lao People's Democratic Republic.  Kees and Dorothy were on their way to Laos to promote their recently published "cookbook", "Food from Northern Laos, The Boat Landing Cookbook".

We became friends with Kees and Dorothy through the Internet.  While researching her cookbook, Dorothy came upon my blog and my photography websites.  My interests and preferred photography subjects as well as locations are very similar to theirs.  She mentioned it to Kees, and he contacted me through the Internet.  We have corresponded over the Internet for over a year and became Facebook "friends".  Dorothy and Kees visited us last December and it was through them that we became familiar with Luang Namtha and the Boat Landing Guest House.

Duang and I had the pleasant surprise of meeting and dining unexpectedly with Kees during our trip to Luang Namtha and stay at the Boat Landing in late January of this year. http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2010/02/laos-day-4-xieng-kok-to-luang-namtha.html

It never ceases to amaze me how the Internet allows people of similar interests or backgrounds to share their experiences and knowledge.  I doubt that we would have travelled to Northern Laos if we had not first seen Kees's photographs and listened to Kees and Dorothy's stories about the area.

Dorothy and Kees were going to Vientiane, Luang Prabang, and Luang Namtha in their car filled with promotional materials and copies of their book.  After browsing their "cookbook", I purchased a copy of the book - my first book ever purchased from the authors.  Having paid for our copy of the book I am not obligated in any manner to Kees and Dorothy in my ensuing book report.

I believe that my last book report was in the ninth grade some 47 yeas ago.  I have long forgotten the prescribed format for a book report but in my older years I am convinced that it really doesn't matter.  So let's read about this book.

I consider the book to be more than a "cookbook".  I have a paper back edition of "Joy of Cooking" - 847 pages of wonderful recipes and some pretty horrendous cartoon sketches (calling them illustrations would be hyperbole). I have another cookbook, "Better Homes and Gardens, New Cook Book" which has more great recipes, no horrible sketches, and some photographs. "Food from Northern Laos, The Boat Landing Cookbook" is 200 pages of wonderful and definitely unique recipes.  If you are tired of the same old meat, potatoes, pasta, and Chinese food options, these 88 Northern Laos recipes are something to consider.  The "cookbook" is also a photography book.  Kees is a professional photographer.  At one time in his life he was the photographer for a museum - photographing articles for catalogues and promotional materials.  "Food from Northern Laos, The Boat Landing Cookbook" is filled with Kees's photographs of the various dishes.  The photographs are well composed, exhibit fine detail, and accurately display the color as well as beauty of the dishes - a tribute and attributable to Kees's experience as a professional photographer. The "cookbook" is also a guide book.  The authors provide useful and accurate information regarding this very interesting area of Laos including the ethnic minorities that inhabit the region.

One of my favorite sections of the "cookbook" is the section entitled "Ingredients".  In the "Ingredients" section, there are photographs and descriptions for the items used to create the Northern Lao dishes.  I have lived here in Thailand for almost three years, and only after reading this "cookbook" do I know what so many of the things are that I have seen in the local markets here in Isaan and in Laos.  Included in the "Ingredients" section are the English or Anglicized name for the ingredient, the Lao name written in the Lao alphabet, and the English pronunciation for the Lao item.  Some of the descriptions also include the Latin scientific name.

There is also another very informative section that describes the various Lao food preparation and cooking methods.  Again there are many photographs to compliment the clear and concise written descriptions of the methods.

Dorothy and Kees have included an informative section which describes traditional Lao cooking equipment - not your or your Mother's kitchen for sure!

I have eaten some of the foods for which there are recipes in the book.  The food was very tasty and unique.  I particularly enjoyed the fried rock algae chips (the algae was fried and not the rock that it grows on ;-)), fried pork (jeun sin moo), Gadawm Gourd Soup (gaeng gadawm).

I found the book to be very well organized and easy to read.  The recipes are clear and simple to follow - the left hand side lists the ingredients and their associated quantities, the right hand side provides the "Method" for preparing and cooking.  For some recipes the right hand side of the page also gives "Variations".

I recommend the book for people looking for a unique recipe/photography/guide book.  "Food from Northern Laos, The Boat Landing Cookbook", a seven year project just published, reflects Dorothy and Kees's love and admiration for the peoples of Northern Laos as well as their joy of life.

I am fairly certain that your copy of the book will not be hand delivered by the authors like ours was , but you can have your copy delivered to your home or place of business by Amazon.  I have included a link below for the book on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Food-Northern-Laos-Landing-Cookbook/dp/0473172364/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1283326898&sr=1-1

Dorothy and Kees also have a website associated with their book at the link below.

http://www.foodfromnorthernlaos.com/

Well this book report is completed.  I look forward to writing my next book report in another 47 years - I will be 108 years old then!

In the mean time we eagerly await our next trip to Northern Laos, and next visit with our Internet friends, Dorothy and Kees.