Another Rice Harvest

Harvesting Rice Outside of Tahsang Village

Our rains. in Isaan, ceased about three weeks ago.  The rice paddies that only a month ago were covered with standing water are now parched.  The rice plants that a month ago was a vibrant green a month ago has been transformed under the hot sun into straw with heavy drooping heads of rice kernels.  Another growing season has concluded and the time is here once again to harvest the rice.

As you drive along the highways, country roads, and dirt trails of Isaan you will come upon many locations where people heavily clothed and in anonymity under large hats along with tee shirt masks are stooped over cutting the rice stalks.

We have been travelling the highways and roads a great deal lately due to Duang having to care for her father either in the Kumphawapi Hospital or at his home in Tahsang Village.  I bring her out and her cousin returns her to our home in the evening.  As the youngest daughter, Duang has a great deal of responsibility for taking care of her father - it is the way things are in the ethnic Lao culture.  Fortunately her sister and two brothers help out so Duang does not have to spend nights away from home and gets a break during the early morning.  I use our trips out to Kumphawapi and Tahsang Village to reconnoiter locations for photography on my return trip.

Along the the highways and byways you will come upon places where motorbikes, farm wagons, and sometimes even bicycles are parked - a sure tip off that harvesting is going on in the nearby fields.

In other locations you can see people working in the adjacent fields sometimes with little more than their broad brimmed straw hats visible above the standing rice plants.

In addition to the rice harvest, people are also occupied planting sugar cane while others are harvesting reeds that are used to weave sahts.

There is much more work related to the rice harvest than going out into the dry paddies and cutting the stalks.  After the rice has been cut, the stalks are laid out in the paddy to dry out further in the sun.  After drying the individual stalks are gathered up and bundled into sheaves - several stalks held together at their base by using a couple rice plants as string to tie them.  After the rice in a paddy has been bundled into sheaves, the sheaves have to be gathered and brought to a central location.

At the central location the sheaves are either loaded on to a farm truck or placed on blue plastic netting.  The sheaves that are placed on the plastic netting will be threshed either by hand or by a truck mounted threshing machine at that location.  The sheaves that are loaded on the farm truck will be transported another location for threshing.

Loading Sun Dried Rice Into Fertilizer Bags

As part of the threshing process, the rice kernels are placed in recycled fertilizer bags - 50 kg (110 pounds).  If the rice is sufficiently dry, the bags of rice are put inside of raised granaries in the yards of the farmers.  If the rice is not sufficiently dry after threshing, which appears to be the case this year, the rice is spread out once again on the blue plastic netting in front yards, backyards, side yards, parking lots, vacant lots, and even on Wat grounds to dry another 3 or 4 days in the sun.  After the rice is dry enough it is placed back into the fertilizer bags for long term storage.

Around Tahsang Village I often find myself amongst family members.  As I approach the good natured shouting and laughing start.  The family is well aware of my passion to learn and photograph their culture.  They seem to enjoy my efforts and will often call Duang to inform her of "interesting" things that they will be doing the next day or day after.

My efforts to photograph ethnic life here in Isaan is not limited to people that I am familiar with or even restricted to the times that Duang is with me.  I venture out on my own when Duang's family obligations prevent her from coming with me.  I often find myself photographing total strangers. 

Like the family members the people have no objections to be observed and photographed.  They seem to be as interested in me as I am of them.  I suspect they may find our interactions as entertaining as I do.

I hope that they learn a little about American culture from me as I learn more of their culture.  Some how with my limited Thai, their limited English, and a great deal of pantomime we are able to communicate on issues such as rice farming in America, working in America, and ordinary life in America.

I do not discuss Thai politics.  I know about "Red Shirts" and "Yellow Shirts" but I laughingly tell them foreigners are "Blue Shirts".  I am a guest here and good guests do not interfere in their host's affairs.  I tell the people that I just want whoever is in power to let me stay.  That ends, with a good laugh, any further attempts to discuss local politics.  Like it is often said here "Good for you. good for me"

Rumors of My Demise ...

The Forest Monk, Luang Paw Pohm Likit

"The report of my death was an exaggeration" is a phrase attributed and often quoted in several versions to the American writer Samuel Clemens ("Mark Twain") in May 1897 when newspapers confused about his cousin's illness reported that Samuel had died.  This quote is sometimes given as "The reports of my demise are greatly exaggerated" , "The report of my death  have been greatly exaggerated", "Rumors of my death have been exaggerated".

Recently I was confronted with a similar situation albeit not as serious as the situation that Mark Twain found himself in so many years ago.

We have been going out to Wat Ban Mat often to visit the Forest Monk, Luang Paw Pohm Likit.  Duang likes to make merit at the Wat along with the the other lay people who visit the Wat.  The local people are very friendly and accepting.  Duang enjoys communing with them and I quite comfortable around them.

Duang's father is dying.  He has been dying since July but recently he has been wasting away more rapidly.  Periodically he will go to the hospital for relief and some comfort from his ailment.  After  3 or 4 days in the Kumphawapi Hospital, he returns to his home in Tahsang Village.

Three weeks ago Duang's father was back in the hospital.  This was also during the time that the workers were painting our house.  Duang goes to Wat Ban Mat to make merit and get a sort of comfort from consulting with the forest Monk and lay people.  Because of the need to have one of us at the house while people were working, I have not been accompanying her out to the Wat.

One afternoon upon returning home, Duang found me ill at home.  It was not serious for me - some sort of gastro-intestinal distress.  After two hours I was fine but Duang was concerned  and asked me if I needed to go to the hospital.  Of course not!  It was nothing serious.

A couple days later Duang told me that Buddha was going to see her father at the hospital in Kumphawapi some 40 miles away from Wat Ban Mat.  I thought that was very nice considering that the Monk did not know her father, the distance involved and the fact that Duang had only recently started going to his Wat.

A couple of days later, Duang called me from the hospital where her father was staying.  Luand Paw Pohm Likit and some people from the Wat had come to the hospital to see me.  Me?  She was laughing.  Apparently they all thought that I was sick and in the hospital.  They came to visit me and bring some special herbs to help cure me!  Luang Paw Pohm Likit had been confused why I was in a hospital so far from our home.  The Army Hospital where we go for healthcare is 3/4 mile from our home.  He was also confused when he did not find me in the Kumphawapi Hospital.  Eventually he found Duang and everything got clarified and straightened out.  Duang called me to let me know that Buddha, a term she uses for Monks, was going to stop and visit me at the house on his way back to his Wat.

Shortly after Duang returned home, the Monk and six people from Ban Mat pulled up to our home.  Everyone enjoyed a good laugh upon seeing me in great health and recounting the story of their visit to the Kumphawapi Hospital.

With this being Isaan, and everyone being interested in every one's personal life. the lay people had to have a tour of our home.  Luang Paw Pohm Likit remained with me in the living room but he was in the spirit of it all by asking me how much we had paid for the house.

After about 30 minutes, our visitors left; promising to return at the beginning of the new year to eat at and bless our home.

I can best and happily describe my situation as "Rumors of my demise were greatly miscommunicated"  I doubt that this quote will ever approach the fame of Mark Twain's but I doubt his provided as many laughs or smiles as mine.

Although this event could be considered somewhat a comedy of errors, for me it was another example of the sense of community and concern demonstrated by the ethnic Lao people here in Isaan.  I am a falang (foreigner) here in Isaan but it appears that I have willingly been accepted by the people.  That is a precious gift no matter who or where you are. It is just so much easier here in Isaan than in many places.

The Home Shrine

 

 

 

Duang's Shrine

Here in Thailand, more specifically in Isaan, it is common for people to have a special place in their home or business.  The special place is a shrine where they are able to perform their devotions.

Wealthy people often have a small room in their home whereas poor people will have a shelf set high on a wall for their shrine.

For Duang's shrine, the location is an alcove off to the side of the stairway leading to the second floor of our home.  My roll top desk, which I purchased 35 years ago in Lake Charles, Louisiana, has been appropriated by Duang to serve as the base of her Buddhist shrine.

Behind the shrine are two portraits of Buddha - occupying the highest position as is appropriate for demonstrating respect and high regard for the Teacher.

The pictures and sculptures that comprise the shrine are not objects to be worshipped or constitute idolatry.  They are objects that remind the person of the Buddhist teachings and show reverence for the Buddha and his teachings.  Reverence is an essential part of Buddhist training.  Buddha taught that people who are respectful and honor those who are superior to them will have more "Long life and beauty, happiness and strength" (Dhp 109)

Duang's shrine is located in a quiet area of our home - no television, no computers, and no radio, as is is appropriate and required for mediation and practicing Dhamma (Teachings of the Buddha).  Her shrine is also separated from where I am in the home.  Shrines are supposed to be out of the line of sight of people who are not interested in the Dhamma and it is desirable that the area be set up for only Dhamma practice.

Besides an image of the Buddha, there are three other things required for a shrine.  The three things are necessary for making the usual offerings.  The three items are:  candlesticks or devices to hold candles, an incense (Joss stick) burner and vases for flowers.

On certain days Duang will also place other items such as glasses of water, glasses of strawberry soda, glasses of whiskey, bananas, tropical fruit, plates of food.  These offerings show gratitude to Buddha, The Teacher, and also melds into the Animist tradition of offering nourishment to the spirits of departed family members.

Candlesticks or devices to hold candles are necessary because candles are burned as offerings to symbolize the light of Buddha's teachings which people should have in their heart to drive out the darkness and desecrations that are there.

Incense is burned as an offering as a reminder that the Dhamma-light can only be found with the assistance of good moral conduct.

"Slight is this perfume of tagara and sandalwood, best the perfume of the virtuous blowing even to the devas.

The perfume of flowers does not go against the wind, neither that of sandalwood, jasmine, or tagara:
but the perfume of the vituous does go against the wind.  The good man suffuses (spreads out) all directions.

Sandalwood or tagara, lotus or the jasmine great - of these perfumes various, virtue's perfume is unexcelled."  Dhammapada verses (54, 55, 56)

Duang's incense burner is typical of home shrines as well as many Wats.  The incense burner is a ceramic bowl filled with clean sand and placed on a metal tray to collect the ash as it falls from the burning Joss sticks.

Flowers are made as offerings and are reminders of the transitory nature and impermanence of the body.  There is a very old Sinhalese Pali writing along that line:

"These flowers, bright and beautiful
fragrant and good-smelling, handsome and well formed - soon indeed discolored, ill smelling and ugly they become.

This very body, beautiful, fragrant and well formed - soon indeed discolored, ill smelling and ugly becomes.

This body of mine too is of the same nature,
will become like this,
and has not escaped from this."

The offerings also serve as objects for focusing the mind so that the person can concentrate when reciting the Buddhist scriptures and for meditation.

Almost every night after dinner, Duang will shower and change into what I call her "holy clothes".  She will then make her offerings and perform her ritual in front of the shrine.  During that time I do not talk or distract her.

The roll top desk has travelled far and near - going from Lake Charles, Louisiana to Baton Rouge, Louisiana to Santa Maria, California to Hercules, California to Martinez, California to Walnut Creek, California and eventually to here - Udonthani Thailand.  However in all its' travels I don't believe that it has ever been used more or for a better purpose than now.

Photo Gallery - Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival 2013

Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle - 2013

A new photography gallery has been added to my photography website.  This gallery is a collection of some of the photographs from our recent trip to Sakon Nakhon, 150 km east of our home, to enjoy this year's Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival.

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Other/Sakon-Nakhon-Wax-Castle/33305169_D3DWNR

"Making Pla thu" Photo Gallery Now Available

I have had a little more time to edit and post process recent photographs.  Our house is being repainted, the fence is being repainted, and major modifications to our landscaping.  Since we have workers on the property we stay at home.

A new photography gallery documenting the process of making the very popular "Pla thu" (Short mackerel) is now available for viewing as well as ordering prints.

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Food/Making-Pla-Thu/33123623_WkhVpH

Banana Roses

Lay Worker Making A Rose From A Banana Leaf

On our visit to Sakon Nakhon to attend the Wax Castle Festival we ended up hiring the same car and driver that we had hired last year.  Upon our arrival at our hotel on October 17th we informed the very helpful people at the registration desk that we would like to hire the same car/driver that we had the previous year.  We gave a description of the man and they immediately recognized who we wanted.  We told them we wanted the car driver for the next day starting at 8:00 A.M.  While I filled out the registration forms and gave them my passport, they called the man.  They spoke with the man and gave me his charges for the day.  The charges were the same as they were last year so we readily agreed.

Gave my passport to the hotel staff?  Yes.  As Duang sometimes explains to me. "Thailand not same as America"  In Thailand as well as other countries in Southeast Asia, you have to establish your identity when renting a hotel room.  Thai nationals in Thailand show their national identity card.  Foreigners have to submit their passport to the reception staff who xerox the relevant pages.  By law the hotels have to have a record of who has stayed in their establishment and confirm that the foreigners are legally in the country - proper unexpired visa.  Private citizens are also supposed to report to local police any foreign guests that are staying in their home but I suspect that this is not fully complied with.

We were a little taken aback the next morning at 8:00 A.M. when a young man showed up rather than the elderly man that we were expecting.   The young man had a nice 4 door pick up truck and he seemed like he had a "good heart"  "Good Heart" is very important here in Isaan.  It means roughly a good and nice person. The young man quickly demonstrated that he was a good as well as safe driver.  After a while in a conversation through Duang, we determined that he was actually the son of our driver from last year.  Now I understood what was going on and everything was fine.

Our first stop of the day was at Wat Suwaneen Gindalam.  We had spent quite a bit of time at the Wat last year - even stopping by on our way back home.  The Monks as well as lay people had been extremely nice and friendly during our visit.  A major component of the wax castle floats are hundreds of small solid wax figurines of mythological creatures of the Himmapan Forest.  Last year the kind people of Wat Suwaneen Gindalam gave us two of the extra figures to bring home.

We were quickly recognized upon our return to the Wat this year.  We found out that the Wat took third place last year and they were striving to win first place this year,  While we were able to watch the completion of the large floats this year, we arrived this year after the two main floats had already been transported into town to a staging area for the night's procession.  Although the main floats were not at the Wat, there was still some work going on.  The tractor trailer truck that would pull one of the main floats still had to be decorated.  A bamboo structure had been erected around the truck but only about 50% of the decorative panels had been attached to the bamboo substructure.

This year the Wat had created a grand wax castle float and a more organic float sort of like a float you see in the Rose Bowl Parade.  It seemed to me that this year there was a different theme for the floats.  Rather than being wax some of the floats were created with fibers and banana leaf materials.

Twisting and Turning A Banana Leaf Into a Green Rose

During our stay at the Wat, one of  the men showed and tried to teach Duang how to make the roses in the float out of banana leaves.

Teacher and Student

Here in Isaan, banana trees are used for many purposes.  I have seen banana stalks used to create a "money tree".  Banana leaves are used to cook food in.  Banana leaves are used as plates.  Banana stalks are used as a substitute for wood to create small houses associated with funeral rites.  Banana leaves are skillfully manipulated to create centerpieces for baii sii rituals.  However this was the first time that I have seen a banana leaf used to create a rose albeit a green rose.

The man quickly created a nice green roses which he presented to Duang as a souvenir of our visit.

Shortly after we arrived, many of the workers left to go into town to freshen up the floats.  We followed them into town to watch them freshen up and repair their floats.

Wax Castles of Sakon Nakhon

Wax Castle Float At Ming Muang Ground

The Nakon Sakhon Wax Castle Festival celebrates the end of Vassa, the 90 day long Buddhist Rain Retreat.  The end of Vassa is determined by the lunar cycle.  Vassa ends on the Full Moon of the 11th Lunar Month.  This year it was October 19.

Last year when we attended the Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival we were able to witness the construction of three large wax castle floats at their Wats.  Unfortunately we were not able to witness any of the other events associated with the festival.

This year I was determined to see a little more of the festival.  I was unable to find a schedule of events for the festival but Duang called our hotel and learned that the evening procession for the wax castle floats was to occur on 18th October.  I surmised that there wold be some kind of show the night before the procession so we traveled to Sakon Nakhon on Thursday the 17th.

Upon arrival at the hotel we learned that there was no big show that night but many of the floats were going to be arriving to the staging area at Ming Muang Grounds.  The floats were scheduled to start arriving at the grounds at 6:00 P.M. and offered to take us there and to pick us up to return to the hotel when we were ready.  The grounds are not that far from the hotel but do to the congestion it took a while to arrive at the grounds.  The narrow streets were made even more so by double parked vehicles, 3 to 4 lanes of motorbikes in addition to the theoretical two lanes of traffic, as well as many vendor carts alongside the road. I enjoyed being able to relax in a nice cool vehicle with no worries about hitting someone or something.

Workers Re-Installing Spires On Wax Castle Float

We arrived at the field while there was still some light in the sky. Many of the floats had fluorescent lights incorporated into them powered by portable generators.  Once they floats were placed into their assigned location and position, the lights were turned on.  The combination of natural lighting and artificial lighting presented some interesting photography opportunities; interesting and quickly evolving opportunities. As the natural lighting diminished, more and more artificial lights came on.  High lighting towers surrounded the grounds and as time moved on were joined by more and more portable lights set up by the float builders.

Many of the floats had traveled along public roads to get from where they had been under construction for the past two to three months to the staging grounds. The stresses of the journey had caused some minor damage to the floats.  The float builders would spend the night and the next day repairing as well as refreshing their floats. The wax castles also have tall delicate wax spires that had been removed to protect them from damage and to provide clearance underneath utility wires along the route.

Detail of Large Float

Besides the confusion of large floats arriving and being backed into position, the grounds were filled with vendors selling foods, drinks, balloons, and souvenirs as well as thousands of people like Duang and me, all enjoying the sights.  Many of the people would pose and have their photograph taken in front, in back, and along the sides of the floats.  Sharks are known to have feeding frenzies.  That night, there was a photography frenzy!  Yes, I took photos of Duang in front, in back, and even on the side of the floats - the things a man will do to please his wife, not that she doesn't deserve it - besides it was her birthday!

Duang Celebrating Her 50th Birthday

I typically do not indulge in photographs of people posing in front of vistas, landmarks, or some other object.  I prefer to take "environmental portraits" - photographs of people in their natural environment usually doing some typical task that reflects their life or culture.  I have already admitted to making some exceptions to please my wife.  I also sometimes make an exception - to please myself.  I made an exception at the grounds to photograph some young girls who were posing for their family.  The little girls, especially the one in the middle, were just to adorable to not photograph - even with with their cheesy posing.

I am also amazed as to how photogenic the people are.  The children have a confidence, determination, and independence that I find most interesting.

I was taking photos of some of the women dressed in ethnic clothing when THEY decided that I should photograph all of them followed by their idea for me to photograph all of them with Duang.  It often is that way here in Isaan - interacting with the people, learning something about them, sharing a little bit of your story with them and getting better photographs.

This festival is a big deal and gets some patronage from the Royal Family.  Each year the King makes funds available for a float.

Float Sponsored by HRH Rama XI

This visit to the festival gave us an opportunity to view some other types of floats that we had not seen last year.  One section of the grounds was reserved for small cart type floats. The two wheeled ox carts or carts pulled by people are not related to the end of Vassa or any religious connotation.  The carts have a very strong cultural connection and symbolism.  The people of Northeast Thailand are descendants of immigrants. Their forefathers and foremothers, for the most part, originated in China.  From southern China starting in the eight century, the peoples immigrated to Laos and eventually to Northeast Thailand.

This migration story is a strong theme even today.  Every festival that we have attended these small carts have participated in the processions.  The show that we attended for the World Cultural Festival in Ban Chiang also dedicated a part of its pageant to the migrants coming to Isaan with their carts.

Ornate Carts for Wax Castle Festival

The carts for the Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival were topped with ornate structures constructed of wax, banana stalks, fresh flowers, and natural fibers.

Close Up Detail of Cart

Although the sky was overcast, by being patient - very patient I was able to take some photographing the nearly full moon in the composition.

After we had become too tired and sweaty to continue any longer, we called the hotel to come get us.  The traffic and confusion in the street was even worse than earlier.  I was even more appreciative to be able to sit, relax, and enjoy a soft drink in the maddening traffic all the confusing way back to the hotel.  Our tip to the driver reflected our appreciation and gratitude.