Unplanned Pleasures - Ones to be shared

Fishing the Flood Plain Outside of Kumphawapi

Here in Isaan we are still in the midst of our Rainy Season.  However as we progress towards the conclusion of the Rainy Season, the weather is giving us tantalizing hints that the end is at hand.  No the end that I am referring to is not dramatic like the Discovery Channel's obsession with the imminent end of the Earth or at least the end of civilization perhaps even mankind as we know it.  I am referring to the end of this year's rainy Season.

We have rain just about everyday but it is much more localized and does not last too long.  Thunder showers are more infrequent.  Our daily high temperatures have cooled down somewhat. A typical high for a day is now around 30C (86F) rather than 36C (97F).  The lowlands are now flooded.  The rice paddies have been submerged for a couple of months and the new crops of rice are thriving.

With the rice crops planted, field activities have diminished a great deal.  There are some stalls along the road selling boiled peanuts and boiled corn on the cob.  The main harvests are a good three months away.  Farmers are still tending to their "free range" cattle and their water buffaloes.  No matter what time of the year here in Isaan you have to remain vigilant for livestock on the roads.  Cattle freely graze on fallow fields and walk along the road grazing on the lush vegetation that is thriving along the road shoulders. The cattle are typically tended by a single cattle herder.  The herds of 5 to typically no more than 15 head are escorted by a cattleherd carrying a long switch.  They leave their village around 7:00 A.M. and return back to their village around 3:30 P.M. In between they wander in search of food.  Some of the cattle have a long rope strung through their nostrils that trails behind them as they lumber along or cross a road.  I am not too worried about hitting an animal but I am concerned about causing them a sprained neck or whiplash if I were to run over their leash as they were moving out of the way.

Yesterday morning we set out early for Kumphawapi to take Peelawat home from the hospital.  There is some kind of a sickness hitting the small children in the villages.  I suspect that it is either a flu or perhaps Dengue Fever.  Peelawat the previous day had been running a fever and had a couple seizures - very frightening but typical for fevers in small children and typical for Duang's family.  He went to the clinic and they sent him to the hospital.  We visited him that evening and he was on a IV drip and anxious to leave the hospital.  He knew where the stairway was that led to the ground floor and parking lot.  He kept pointing in that direction and indicating that he wanted to go.  Duang diverted his attention somewhat by talking about monkeys and told him that when he got better we would take him to see the monkeys.

Our early morning departure was delayed for about 10 minutes due to Police activity.  From the man that we buy our floral offerings to hang from our truck's rear view mirror we learned that the King's granddaughter was traveling in our area.  When a member of the Royal Family travels by road, Police will close down the road to all traffic except for the Royal motorcade.  The Royal Motorcade is made up of several cars containing government and military officials, several vans of attendants, several Police escort vehicles, and two to three SUVs or vans of the Royal party along with an ambulance.  The motorcade speeds along a very high rate so I am not sure if the roving road closure is for their safety or the public's safety.

Peelawat Purchases Some Peanuts to Feed His Monkey Friends

Peelawat was discharged from the hospital with some medicines to take.  Duang and I kept our word and took him into the center of town to visit the monkeys.  It was a very overcast day with an imminent threat of rain after some heavy rains the night before.  This seemed to reduce the number of monkeys in the park but their were plenty enough for Peelawat to get his monkey fix.

Peelawat Tosses Some Peanuts to a Monkey Friend

After putting some distance between ourselves and a large monkey that we had been warned had bitten a small child, we spent some time observing the smaller friendlier monkeys.  Peelawat has become very adept at spotting them and pointing them out.  He later got excited about a couple of very large and colorful butterflies.  He kept pointing them out to me so I could take their picture.  As I was photographing the butterflies, we received a big surprise - a young elephant came walking by with three mahouts.  I was thrilled.  Peelawat was not very happy at all.  I bought some small pieces of sugar cane to feed the elephant but Peelawat wanted nothing to do with it.  Although it was a young elephant, it was the largest animal Peelawat had ever seen or apparently ever wanted to see.  He remained in the comfort of his grandmother's arms and did not take his eyes off of the animal until it was long out of sight.  Even then Peelawat would remind me by pointing where he last saw the elephant and it was obvious that he was not asking to go there.

Young Elephant Performs In Appreciation For Some Sugar Cane

Peelawat Keeps His Eyes On the Elephant

Chang and Mahouts Leaving - Much to Peelawat's Relief

To take Peelawat's mind off of the "chang" (elephant), we introduced him to the slide.  After overcoming some technical misunderstandings as to how to properly use a slide, Peelawat enjoyed going down the slide as long as Grandfather had his arm around him as he slid down the slide.  I suspect that the slide and monkey bars will become another reason to visit the park in Kumphawapi.

Peelawat Trying To Figure Out How to Use A Slide On His Own

I returned Peelawat to his Mother back at the hospital and returned home alone.  Duang was going to babysit Peelawat while here daughter worked at a local market.  The one hour trip back to our home took about three hours to complete.  I was carrying my backpack of camera gear and came upon some interesting sights along the way home.  You should always be prepared for the unexpected here in Isaan.  Daily activities have migrated from the fields to the flood plains of Isaan.  With the rice crops in the paddies, a man's and a woman's fancy turns to .... FISHING.  During this late stage of the rainy season the Mekong River is flowing very heavily which causes the many rivers and stream that empty into it to back up.  This in combination with the almost daily rains over the past three months has submersed the floodplains.  During the dry season, you will drive past bamboo fishing stands that are two meters above the ground.  Those same stands are now about 1/2 meter or less above the water.

Fisherwomen Of the Flood Plain Alongside the Road In Isaan

The local people set about fishing using drop nets.  I have written about these in previous blogs but I am still fascinated by the effort and techniques the people use to catch fish.  Yesterday was no exception.  I spotted a location where several "fisherwomen" had set up along side a highway bridge over the flood plain outside of Kumphawapi.  I pulled the truck over onto the side of the road and placed my backpack on my shoulder.  At first the fisherwomen were curious about a foreigner stopping along the road and walking along the bridge.  I said hello and asked if they were happy.  I asked if there were a lot of fish and proceeded to pull out my camera.  My limited Thai and Lao vocabulary broke the ice quite easily.  Their curiosity quickly turned to amusement that someone would be interested as well as would take the time to photograph them.

Yes There Also Are Some Fishermen In Isaan

Across from the fisherwomen was a fisherman and a fisherwomen, perhaps his wife, fishing a different section of the flood plain.  When I first started to take their picture I released that he was answering a call.  No it wasn't a call from his cell phone but a call from nature.  He noticed me and I yelled out in Thai that I wanted to take pictures of fish and not his @#6&.  He smiled and the fisherwomen all laughed like crazy.  Now that all the ice was broken I was set to enjoy two hours of photography and they didn't feel threatened or intimidated. They could relax, be themselves and go about their business which is exactly what I wanted to photograph.  As is often the goal here in Isaan "Good for you. Good for me"

The Best Fisherwoman And Her Catch

The people were catching tadpole sized fish in their dip nets without using any bait or lures.  I showed my wife these pictures and she knew exactly what they were catching - "Bahtou".  I asked if they were used to make Nam Pahla (fermented fish sauce - with the emphasis on FERMENTED FISH).  Duang said No that the people ate the fish.  This was an eye opener to me.  Back in the USA these fish would be considered too small to even use as bait but here they were a highly sort after source of protein.

Just as when I used to go fishing with my grandfather, one fisherwomen seemed to dominate in catching the fish.  We could switch sides of the boat.  We could swap fishing equipment.  We could swap baits or lures.  It all made no difference he always seemed to catch more and the biggest fish.  The best fisherwoman was in the middle of the row of the fisherwomen.  She dropped her net into the water just as the other women.  She used no lures or bait just like every one else.  She waited about 5 minutes like the others did prior to pulling up her net.  Whereas the others might catch 3 fish occasionally, she typically caught 4 to 6.  Her hand made nylon creel was filled with tiny fish demonstrating her prowess.

A Lao Loum Farmer Cutting Vegetation On the Flood Plain

Lao Loum Man Clearing Portion of Flood Plain

I crossed the road and watched a man up to his neck in the water.  he was using a sickle on the end of a long bamboo pole to cut the vegetation.  I had seen people in Isaan doing this alongside the road to harvest food for their cattle or pigs.  I had watched people in China do this to obtain food for their water buffalo.  I asked the man if the plants were food for his water buffalo. He indicated to me that he was clearing the vegetation in order to create channel and space for fish that he could catch with a drop net from his close by fishing stand.  He had finished his cutting for the day so he climbed out of the water up to the road level where I was at.  Prior to climbing up from the water level, he was very meticulous about washing the mud off of his clothing and bare feet.  He was wearing a typical knit pullover polo shirt and thin trousers.  When he came up to my level I noticed that he also had tight elastic bands of recycled tire inner tubes around his ankles and around his waist.  He proceeded to check around and under these straps very carefully when it occurred to me that he was looking to see if he had any leeches on him.  I asked him if and more importantly pantomimed if he was looking for leeches.  He affirmed and showed me some scars on his arms that he attributed to leeches.  I am not aware of leeches leaving a scar, so I suspect that the leech incisions had become infected or that it might have been another parasite such as flukes that he had encountered.  I checked the back of his neck and down his back underneath his shirt to ensure he was OK this time.  I left it up to him to check any other places under his clothing for unwanted critters.  It was time to check out some people fishing closer to town.  Rather than going back to the truck and driving down, I decided to walk.  Talk about being a fish out of water.  There were many people who drove by on all types of vehicles surprised to see a foreigner walking along a main road with a backpack on.  Fortunately there is no ordinance against WWW (Walking While White) so I was not stopped by the policemen that drove past me.

Old Mamma Preparing To Chew Some Betel Nut

I later returned to the fisherwomen near my truck and one of the older women was taking a break.  As she sat on her fishing stand her clothing wet from her fishing efforts, she had opened up her handbag of goodies and was preparing to chew some betel nut.  Betel nut chewing is similar to chewing tobacco and just as disgusting to me.  The process of preparing to chew betel nut is quite involved - taking a leaf, putting what appears to some dry wood chips on it, putting a clump of lime (the chemical powder not the fruit) on the leaf, cutting a piece of betel nut and pounding it to bits with a brass mortar and pestle, adding it to the leaf and wrapping it into a package before placing it in your mouth.  I yelled down to the woman in Lao if it tasted good.  I then told her that she should use the ensuing spittle as bait for the fish.  At first she misunderstood me and was preparing to share her stash with me.  I quickly corrected her and got her to understand that I thought she should use the bright red spit from chewing to attract fish to her net.  She laughed like crazy.  Soon all the fisherwomen were laughing.  The joke was so good or perhaps I was so funny that they yelled over to the fisherman to tell him.  I thought that this would be a good time to break away and finish my journey back home.

Seven Fish To Be Added to the Creel

It had been a day of unplanned activities that ended up providing some pleasant experiences.  I was fortunate to once again participate in Peelawat's personal development - even though he did not appreciate the elephant.  I was also fortunate to once again observe some of the unique aspects of life here in Isaan.  These are the pleasures that come from unplanned and unexpected activities.

The Boy Who Dances For Monkeys

Peelawat and the Monkeys of Kumphawapi

Our 18 month old grandson, Peelawat, has been doubly fortunate recently.  Twice we have taken him to medical clinics to get his scheduled vaccination.  When he was born his parents were given a paper book in which his medical statistics are kept.  In addition the book informs the parents of what shot and vaccinations as well as when they are required.  His height and weight are added and charted on pages in the book.  It appears to be a very effective communication tool for ensuring the health of babies.

Twice the clinics have not had the vaccines so he did not get his shots.  Both times we took advantage of the time as well as location to visit the local wild monkeys.  Peelawat enjoys monkeys perhaps as much as I do.  Whereas he will run from chickens and cats that approach him, he stands his ground and often closes ground with the wild monkeys.

A Typical Private Medical Clinic in Isaan

In Isaan there are government clinics set up in various villages throughout the area.  Poor people can obtain free medical care there by showing a government issued Medical ID Card.  Duang and I once accompanied him to one of these clinics outside of his other grandmother's village outside of Kumphawapi.  It was a great place, it was packed with babies and toddlers.  It was interesting just to sit around and watch the parade of babies and children through the facility.  The rural clinics are more than just a room for medical treatment of the local villagers.  The clinic is a walled or fenced compound with a building for medical treatment, and a building where the doctor and his or her family live.

Freshly Powdered Peelawat Checks Himself Out at a Clinic

Since Peelawat has been staying at his great grandmother's home in Tahsang Village, we took him to a private medical clinic in the nearby town of Kumphawapi.  Medical clinics are staffed by doctors from the local hospital.  The doctors typically are available in their clinics from 9:00 A.M. after their morning hospital rounds until Noon and then again from 5:00 P.M. until 8:00 P.M.  Various clinics specialize in specific groups or conditions.  There are clinics for babies.  There are ear, nose, and throat clinics.  There are OBGYN clinics.  There are fertility clinics.  There are General Practice clinics.  As people identify a need for a doctor, they show up at the appropriate clinic, sign in or grab a number and wait their turn to see the doctor.  So far in almost three years here in Isaan, we have yet to make a scheduled appointment with a doctor - if scheduled appointments are even utilized here.  If the clinic is too busy you are told of another clinic in the area that could help.  A final  resort would be to go to a local hospital to see a doctor.  Local hospitals are usually a last resort because they provide free services to qualified poor people there by increasing waiting times significantly.

Peelawat Weighs Himself and Contemplates the Growth Chart

Peelawat Checks Up On Another Patient At the Clinic

In addition to clinic visits, we also visit the monkeys on our trips to the Amphor visits and market forays in Kumphawapi.  Peelawat always enjoys watching the monkeys.  You can always count on the monkeys to put on a show for your amusement and entertainment.  This expression "More fun than a barrel full of monkeys" is a realistic observation.  Monkeys, especially the young ones, tease and play with each other while hanging from trees.  Monkeys are also very curious and clamber all over parked cars, under trucks, and on motorbikes to look for food or to just check things out.  Peelawat has now become a very accomplished monkey spotter.  He will constantly point them out to me and say "Ling, Ling ..." (Monkey, Monkey)

Happiness Is Being Amongst Friends

Besides getting excited when he sees monkeys, Peelawat will also breakout into a dance.  I am not sure if it is an expression of joy or is meant to entertain the monkeys.  Whatever his motivation, I find it amusing.

Peelawat Busts A Move for the Monkeys

Another "Monkey Greeting Dance" Move

Four Monkeys In the Park

In the central park of Kumphawapi you can purchase food, peanuts, to feed the monkeys.  Peelwat likes to get in the middle of the monkey feeding frenzies that frequently occur as people throw out food for them.  Peelawat is not intimidated but Yai Duang, Grandmother Duang, can only bear to watch for a short period of time before she races in to "rescue" him despite his protests.  Peelawat and Tah Allen, Grandfather Allen, then both get a lecture regarding not getting too close to monkeys.

Yai (Grandmother) Duang to the Rescue

Life here in Isaan can be different but is usually entertaining and interesting.  With a boy who dances for monkeys, I eagerly anticipate our next visit together with the monkeys of Kumphawapi.

Big Box Battle -The Struggle Against the Multinationals

My stated goal in both this blog as well as my photography is to share and show how different people in various lands are but in doing so, show how much we are alike.

My experiences have demonstrated to me that people all want the same things - they want to be able to take care of their families, they want to be happy, and they want to live in peace - "Peace" as in the absence of armed conflict, and excessive interference from governments.

With the common desires of people, there are common conflicts and issues that confront people no matter their culture or location.

Earlier this week, I became aware of a current conflict in Khumphawapi that is not unlike the conflict that confronts many smaller communities in the United States. The conflict is the encroachment and impact of "big box" multi-national retailers such as Walmart upon the local business environment.

In Isaan, most people purchase their goods from small stores and markets. I have written about the market in Khumphawapi where vendors rent space either inside the open sided structure or outside to sell their items. These markets are situated throughout the larger towns. In smaller villages, such as Tahsang Village, some people run very small markets, approximately 10 ft by 10 ft, out of their homes to support some of their neighbor's needs. Night markets are set up on specified nights throughout the week to support the greater needs of people living in the smaller villages.

In addition to the above locations where goods and perishables can be purchased, there are larger distribution shops. These larger shops, typically around 30 ft by 30 ft and stacked from floor to ceiling, sell bulk items. It is at these locations, sort of like micro Costco or Sams Club, that the small village shops purchase their inventory to sell back in their village. The price of the goods in these distribution shops, typically owned and run by ethnic Chinese Moms, Pops, and Sons, reflects a discount to the bulk buyer.

Larger cities such as Udonthani have Western style big box retailers such as the British chain "Tesco-Lotus", and the French chain "Carrefour". These stores could be transported to the USA and would not be any bit out of place. In fact it is my understanding that "Tesco-Lotus" is venturing into the American marketplace.

Here in Isaan, the status quo is being challenged mainly by Tesco-Lotus. They are establishing stores outside of the metropolitan areas very similar to the Walmart practise. In addition they are building smaller local mega-shops sort of like mega 7-11's in cities. These endeavors are a threat to the status quo, culture and social fabric of the local peoples.

The current system of markets serves their communities on a very personal level. The vendors for a large part are selling items from their farms or that they have gathered. Duang's sister and brother-in-law often rent space at the Kumphawapi market to sell vegetables from their farm. Other people sell mushrooms that they cultivate at their homes. Shopping at these markets is a social event as much as it is about buying what you need. Gossip, news, and pleasantries are exchanged during shopping. This strengthens and cultivates a sense of community and community commitment unlike the sterile and impersonal experience of shopping in a big box multi-national establishment.

Tesco Lotus is planning on building a large store just outside of Kumphawapi. The land was back filled and prepared for building earlier this year. Construction has not started yet but appears to be imminent.

Just as Walmart entering into a small community, the planned arrival of Tesco-Lotus has stirred up some opposition. Across from the market in downtown Kumphawapi a sign has been erected - a very serious sign. The sign, as translated by Duang, states "You work for Lotus, You will die, now!" I guess it is up to the reader's supposition as to whether their death would be to natural or un-natural causes. For me, it gets my attention and I believe! Interestingly this sign in the middle of town, on the main road through town, 100 feet from where Police are either directing traffic or checking motorcycles for compliance to various laws, remains for over 5 days. We do not know who is behind this sign or similar signs erected around Kumphawapi as well as at the entrance to the projected Tesco-Lotus site but the commonly held suspicion is that it is the ethnic Chinese merchants. It is fairly common in Southeast Asia for the ethnic Chinese merchants to be suspected of any and most nefarious plots.

The struggle against and issues related to big box multi-national stores in Khumphawapi is very much like in the USA however the degree of intimidation being employed is obviously much more transparent.