A Granddaughter's Farewell

Almost two weeks ago, my wife and I attended the funeral of an old man out in the countryside on the border of Changwat Udon Thani and Changwat Sakon Nakhon.  Attending the funeral was not out of morbid curiosity regarding death but rather an acceptance of one's obligations and duties as a member of a large family and an even larger community.

The grandfather of the young Monk from Wat Pha That Nong Mat outside of Tahsang Village had died and on 17 May he was to be cremated.  The young Monk is a close friend to Duang's family and many of the villagers of Tahsang Village.  A group of the villagers were going to attend the cremation to show their respect for both the dead man and his grandson the Monk.  I agreed to go and bring some of the villagers with us.

We first drove approximately 45 minutes south of our home to pick-up my mother-in-law, our grandson Peelawat, and two other older female relatives.  We then drove north for about two hours to Ban Dong Yen.

One lane of the two lane road in front of the dead man's home as blocked off - a typical situation for funerals, weddings, Monk Ordinations, housewarmings, and Bone Parties.  The additional real estate is used for parking and setting up pavilions for guests where they can eat and drink.

Son Carries Part of the Funeral Shrine From House to Pick-Up Truck

At roughly 12:45 PM the refrigerated coffin containing the consumable coffin and the corpse were removed from the home and placed in the back of a pick-up truck for the procession to the local Wat for the cremation ritual.

Family and Friends Load the Coffin On to Pick-Up Truck

I have attended many funerals here in Isaan, many more than I had attended in my previous 60 years in America.  I remember being sheltered as a child from attending funerals.  It was not until I was 17 or 18 years old that I attended a funeral.  Such is not the case here in Isaan.  At the earliest age and more importantly, throughout childhood, children attend and participate in funerals.

Children attend and participate in funerals as full members of the family or community.

I am often reminded of a wonderful quote from National Geographic contributor, Wade Davis, a renowned Canadian Anthropologist.  In his documentary series "Light At the End of the World" regarding the Buddhist attitude towards death ... "The Buddhists spend all their lives getting ready for a moment that we spend most of our lives pretending does not exist, which is the moment of our death". 

In Isaan death is a milestone of life which is familiar to and accepted by all people from a very early age. The conclusion of this life, which for many has been very difficult, presents the hope as well as opportunity for a better and easier life in the future - another step towards eventual enlightenment.

With this blog entry, my 20th related to the funeral rituals of the ethnic Lao Loum people of Isaan, what can be written or photographed that has not been done before?

Each funeral has been very similar but each had some unique aspects.  The different aspects are related to family traditions and the economic reality of the family.  For me, the most interesting aspect of the funerals, was the different people attending and their interaction with each other as well as with the ritual.

So with each funeral that we attend, I look for the special moments, the hidden details, and the personal moments of the event.  There are some standard shots that I end up taking at each funeral but I am always looking for the unique photos that tell a more unique and personal story or photos that better define the culture in regards to death.

This latest funeral was no exception.  There was an aspect to the funeral that I had not witnessed before.  Part of the funeral procession involved ritualized fishing.

Crossing the Bridge Over the River Songkhram, A Man Casts His Net Over the Road

At the front of the funeral procession, there was a man carrying a woven basket filled with popped rice.  Periodically as the procession marched along he would cast handfuls of the popped rice in front of the procession.  This is very typical in funeral processions.  The rice is offerings of nourishment to the local spirits.

However for this funeral, he was joined by three other men with unique responsibilities and duties.  One man walked at the head of the procession carrying a burning homemade taper.  Another man carried a hand fish net - the type used everyday to capture fish.  Another man next to him and often in front of him carried a spiked woven basket that is used to capture fish that are often found in the mud slurry of the rice paddies during planting season.

One end of the woven basket is a larger diameter than the other open end of the basket.  The larger end of the basket has the ribs of the basket exposed about 2 to 3 centimeters past the first hoop of the basket.  When a fish is spotted in the shallow mud slurry of the rice paddy, the larger diameter end of the basket is quickly shoved into the slurry to capture the fish.  The fisherman or more likely, the rice planter who has been interrupted in his work, reaches down through the small end of the basket to retrieve the fish.

I spent most of my time ahead of the procession so that I could photograph it as it approached.  Rather than being a solemn procession as one would expect for a funeral, the front of the procession was quite joyous with a great deal of laughing, joking, and animated conversation.

Several times when throwing the fish net, the "fisherman" fell down - much to his amusement and the amusement of the other men.  I suspect that he was somewhat unstable from drinking the local whiskey all morning long.  On occasion it appeared that he was trying to net the other fisherman who carried the basket.  The road that we traveled on was not heavily used by vehicles but it was very apparent that water buffalo had come along that way.  Upon coming upon a large mound of water buffalo dung in the middle of the road, I cautioned the fishermen not to catch it - much to the amusement of everyone.

So what was going on with the net, basket and burning taper.  I asked Duang and she told me something along the lines of :  the men did not want to think about dying. they did not want the spirit of the deceased man to be sad so they were making believe that it was nighttime and they were all happy because they were fishing together.

After crossing the bridge over the Songkhram River we found ourselves in Changwat Sakon Nakhon and in the village of Khok Si.  The procession took a left turn down a narrow village road on its way to the Wat.

By this time, the men at the head of the procession had been joined by some of the children.  One of the aspects of life here that I particularly enjoy, is observing the confidence, self-reliance, self assurance and independence of the children. The children, at least one of them, a granddaughter were not timid or shy at the turn of events that they found themselves in.

I ended up taking several photographs throughout the cremation ritual of one granddaughter.  Her demeanor and demonstration of respect for her departed grandfather was inspiring and fit very well with the message that I intended to make about an aspect of life here.  "Life" here in a blog about a funeral ... death?  How can that be?  It actually is quite logical from the Buddhist standpoint.  Death frees us from this life and until we attain enlightenment, frees us to be born again.  So for Buddhists there can be no life without first having death.

Requesting Permission For the Procession to Enter the Wat Grounds

When the front of the procession arrived at the gate to the Wat, we could not enter.  The men at the front of the procession knelt before a Monk and talked for awhile.  They then seemed to ask permission as the truck carrying the coffin caught up to the group.  Perhaps as a symbol for the transition of the procession to a more serious mode, the man with the fishing net finally captured the other fisherman that had the basket to the delight of everyone - right in front of the gate to the Wat.

Personal Possessions and Prosthesis to be Burned As Part of Funeral Ritual

The procession entered into the Wat's extensive grounds at a side entrance at the back of the property. The crematorium was located very close to the entrance.

The coffin containing the corpse was removed from the refrigerated coffin and placed on two metal sawhorses at grade level in front of the crematorium rather than at the door to the furnace as in all previous cremations that I have attended.

A cardboard box of the deceased man's personal effects and his  two prosthesis were placed in a fire pit off to the side of the crematorium.  The man had both of his legs amputated due to the effect of diabetes.  Although obesity is not an issue in this area, and the people's diet is far removed from Western diet, diabetes is very prevalent here.  I suspect that it is perhaps due to genetics or possibly a virus.  As is typical in the cremation ritual, once the flames commence to consume the corpse, the personal possessions are burned.

A Granddaughter Watches As Her Grandfather Is Bathed in Coconut Water

The cover of the consumable coffin was removed to expose the corpse.  Monks and people came forward to pour coconut water straight from coconuts on the corpse.  Others poured water from bamboo stalk containers.  The granddaughter who had caught my attention showed no fear or revulsion.  She seemed more curious and remorseful over what she was witnessing.

 The young girl joined her parents following the coffin up the stairs of the crematorium for it to be placed upon a bed of charcoal on a heavy metal carriage.

The little girl remained alone at the doorway to the furnace as the doors were closed and the charcoal was ignited - a fitting and poignant tribute to the grandfather that she obviously loved.

People Scramble to Catch Candies and Coins Cast From the Raised Floor of the Crematorium

So it is ... life and death here in Isaan.  Life and death are embraced at an early age.

Children are integrated into their culture and society to prepare them for their future days ... in this lifetime as well as the others to come.

Some Things Are Not What They First Appear

Carved Wood - Ban Na Kha, Thailand

In this blog I have often stated that "There is the way that things are supposed to be and then there is the way that things are." Although my focus in life as well as photography in the past nine years have been in Asia, specifically Southeast Asia, that saying, perhaps bordering on a cliché, often describes conditions throughout the world and although there is no known evidence to support it, I suspect it also applies to the inhabitants of the International Space Station.

The human condition thirsts and lusts for order, stability. and fears change.  In an effort to quench our thirst, create order and "ensure" stability in our lives, we have created laws, codes, and a sense of the ways that things are supposed to be.  Even today this quest evolves into concepts of social justice, economic equity, rights, and "fairness".  These codes, laws, senses of the way that things should be as well as altruistic memes are quite often created by those who believe that they know more, know better, and even know best for everyone else.  Unfortunately or perhaps fortunately, that is not the way that things are.  This world is a cornucopia of diversity, contradictions, incongruities, inconsistencies and for most people, frustrations and disappointments.  Reality often does not conform with expectations or "the way things are supposed to be" no matter the amount or quality of the knowledge that you may possess or have convinced yourself that you have.

"Things are often not what they first appear to be" is another cliché that is often all too true.  Each of us interprets our environment based upon our individual perspectives, life experiences, cultural biases, instilled values and training.  Our "reality" is a mélange of the sensory inputs to our brain and our interpretation and evaluation of those inputs based upon our individuality.

The photograph at the beginning of this blog is most likely an example of the adage "Some Things Are Not What They First Appear."  The "Carved Wood - Ban Na Kha, Thailand" photograph is of a portion of a wood carved door.  A carved door?  Carved door to what ... Hugh Hefner's bedroom? Entry to a "gentlemen's club"?  Door to one of those notorious (naughtious?) Thai Go-Gos?  No - actually far from all of that. The section in the photograph is actually part of a door to a Viharn (Sermon Hall) at Wat Nakha Twewi (Thewee and a couple other spelling variants)

Entrance Door At Wat Nakha Thewi

The door into the Viharn is heavy and richly carved.  So what does a bare chested young woman dancing have to do with Buddha or Buddhism?  Is this a story that can be shared in mixed company or even shared with children?  The answer is "Yes".

The female figure is a representation of an extremely important deity and she is not dancing.  She is Phra Mae Thorani.  Carvings, paintings, and sculptures of Phra Mae Thorani are common at Buddhist temples in Thailand, Cambodia, Myanmar and Lao (Lao People's Democratic Republic).

Phra Mae Thorani is often depicted beneath Buddha just as she is in the above door panel - don't worry. it is not what you think or what it may appear to some people.

Buddha Calling the Earth

Notice the carved Buddha in the section of the door above Phra Mae Thorani - he is sitting cross legged on a lotus flower with his left hand resting in his lap with the open palm facing up while the palm of his right hand rests on his right knee with the fingers pointing straight down.  This posture of Buddha is called "Buddha Calling the Earth"

Buddha Calling the Earth - Sop Ruak (The Golden Triangle) Thailand

I have not performed any research or statistical analysis of the depictions that I have seen of Buddha, but it seems to me that "Buddha Calling the Earth" is very popular if not the most popular posture - and for a very good reason; there is a great story behind it.

Buddha Calling the Earth - Ayuthaya, Thailand

Buddha did not become enlightened over night.  He had many life cycles, some not even human (123 as an animal), before attaining enlightenment or liberation. In one of the stories, some people say myths but for me the term has too much of a negative connotation), Buddha was a Bodhisattva (a being whose goal is to attain enlightenment, a previous life of Buddha) who was meditating under a Bodhi tree (ficus religiosa). He vowed to remain meditating under the tree until he became enlightened.  After seven years, his body was ravaged.

Mara, The Evil One (the Buddhist Devil) apparently out of jealousy wanted to prevent Buddha from attaining liberation.  Mara represents temptation, sin and death.   He is the King of the Heaven of sensual delight - the quenching of the thirst for pleasure, power, and existence.  Mara first tried to convince and reason with the Buddha to stop and give up his seat under the tree thus giving up on his quest for enlightenment.  When that did not work, Mara showed up with his army, his daughters, and wild animals to drive away the Bodhisattva from his throne - one way or another.  The gods that were watching over Buddha tried to stop Mara's army but when they could not, they fled leaving Buddha alone to resist Mara, alone and physically weakened after seven years of meditation.

Mara called upon his army to witness his power and what he planned to do next.  Buddha had no one to witness for his good deeds.  He stretched out his right hand and touched the Earth to call forth the earth deity.

Phra Mae Thorani - Huay Xai, Lao

From underneath Buddha's throne, Phra Mae Thorani, the Earth Goddess, in the form of a beautiful young woman rose to bear witness of the Bodhisattva's good deeds. Phra Mae Thorani affirmed Buddha's right to remain on his throne under the tree.  As she twisted her long hair, torrents of water which had been accumulated over the ages from Buddha's libations (pouring of water in rituals to the gods) caused a great flood which washed away Mara and his army.  Buddha was thus freed to continue his path to enlightenment.

The Earth deity - Phra Mae Thorani, Vat Jom Khao Manilet, Lao

The carved door section at Wat Nakha Tewi turned out to be a significant religious representation associated with the victory over the temptations of sensual delights - existence, power, and pleasure. It was not an invitation for or representation of the vanquished temptations as it may have first appeared without knowing the story.

One of the fascinating benefits of living in this region is all the opportunities to experience and learn just how different your new reality can become as you develop greater perspectives and interpretation for everything beyond your first perception.  Your reality from your old world is reborn as you learn that some things are not what they first appear and that it is acceptable for things to not be the way they are supposed to be especially if that way that you thought was the only way they should be.

For me, this is a great story as well as an inspiring story.  I plan on taking a series of photographs based upon the symbolism and imagery of Phra Mae Thorani.  As it turns out, for me, classical sculpture and posing is not limited to Greek or Roman culture.

Prasat Hin Muang Tam

Entrances of the Sanctuary

In the beginning of last month. my wife and I traveled to Cambodia to tour the Khmer ruins in the Siem Reap area - Angkor Wat.  It was a wonderful trip with many interesting photography and learning experiences - so many photography opportunities that over a month later I am still editing and post-processing the photos.

After spending 6 days at our home upon returning to Thailand, we drove southeast to attend the annual Elephant Round-Up in Surin.

As part of our stay in the Surin area, we ended going to the nearby province of Buriram. Our friends, who were familiar with the area, drove us to Prasat Hin Muang Tam.  Prasat Hin Muang Tam is located in the small village of Khok Meaung, at the base of an extinct volcano upon which a rather  famous Khmer temple has been restored by the Thai government.

Prasat Hin Muang Tam is a restored Khmer temple complex.  It is 1,000 years old and was built during the reign of the Khmer Empire in the late 10th and early 11th century.  The temple was built along an ancient road that ran from Angkor Thom (Siem Reap) Cambodia and Phimai, Thailand.

Today, there is ample parking a very short walk from the temple complex.  Our walk to the complex was through a grove of large trees - a sort of horticultural garden.  There were paved sidewalks through the garden and the grounds were very well maintained.

I especially liked that the various trees and plants had name plates which gave the name of them in Thai, English, as well as the Latin scientific names.

The temple is surrounded by a wall constructed of blocks of laterite - a weathered product of basalt, a clay that when exposed to air and sun hardens (to me it resembles iron slag).  The laterite here is reddish due to the being rich in iron from Hematite and Goethite. The Khmer people used laterite blocks for many of the structural elements of their temples.

Once you enter into the complex by passing through one of the gates that are located in the center of each wall enclosing the rectangular complex, you encounter four ponds at each corner of the inner sanctuary.  This is a common feature of Khmer temples in that the water features represent the primordial ocean surrounding a central tower which represents Mount Meru, the home where the gods reside in Hindu mythology.  The four other towers of the temples represent the mountains that surround Mount Meru.

Most people have seen photographs of Angkor Wat or other Khmer temples with reflections of the temple in some body of water.  The water, sometimes a sort of large puddle and other times a more clearly defined man made enclosure are remnants of the time when the temples were surrounded by moats - symbolizing and representing the ocean which surrounds Mount Meru.  The ponds at Prasat Hin Muang Tam are unique because they are "L" shaped in addition to having laterite steps to the bottom of the ponds.  Nagas, five headed serpents, line the edges of each pond.  Where the heads of the Nagas come together at the head of the pond, the heads rise up to form a gateway leading to the formal stairways to the bottom of the pond.

Another feature that I enjoyed at this restored temple complex was the use of bilingual signs in Thai and English to point out and explain some of the features of the temple - a feature that is absent in Cambodian sites.

When I visited the temple there were only five other people inside of the complex, Duang and our friends had decided to stay outside and enjoy the shade of the large trees.  It was enjoyable to wander around the rounds and take photographs without other people in them with relative ease - not always the case or so easily in Siem Reap.  It was especially nice to not have bus loads of tour groups trampling around destroying the tranquility of a sacred site.

Prasat Hin Muang Tam also has some very nice and interesting sandstone carvings.

I was surprised to encounter such a fine example of Khmer temples here in Thailand.  There are other ruins in the area also - 146 of them.   In Siem Reap it is easy to become overwhelmed by all the ruins - typically around the second day, all the temples seem to look alike and one forgets which one was visited and what was unique about it, especially for first time visitors.  Not so in Buriram and Surin Provinces in Thailand.  You can get a taste of Khmer architecture without becoming overwhelmed by the amount of ruins or fellow tourists.

Our trip to Prasat Hin Muang Tam was a surprise - a very pleasant surprise.  I believe that we will return in the near future - return to Buriram and Surin as well as once again to Siem Reap!

Wat Kham Chanot

Standing Buddha: Left arm is in the Abhaya Mudra position while the left hand is in the Vitarka Mudra (thumb and forefinger brought together) - Buddha is appealing to reason - an appeal for peace

Earlier this month as part of our journey ith our grandson to observe salt production in the Ban Dung area, we made a return visit to a special Buddhist temple, Wat Kham Chanot.

We had first visited Wat Kham Chanot four years ago in May 2009 to watch Duang's brother Mahlam Lao show that was part of a large festival being held at the Wat.  That first visit was subject of the following blog entry:

http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2009/05/go-go-girls-at-door-to-water-underworld.html


Wat Kham Chanot is considered a very special place to the ethnic Lao, Lao Loum, a people that Duang is a member of.  Wat Kham Chanot, which is not too far from the Mekong River, is considered to be the gate to the water underworld which is ruled by the King of the Nagas.  Nagas are a mythological deity that takes the form a a very great snake.  Nagas are found in the traditions and legends of Hinduism as well as in Buddhism.  I have written before about the amalgamation of Animist, Hindu and Buddhist beliefs and traditions here in Isaan.  The area was once Animist before Hindu and then Buddhist believers arrived.  Today in Isaan traditions and beliefs from all three remain a very strong part of not only the culture but of individual daily life.

It is believed that a Naga lives in the area around Wat Kham Chanot and that an entrance to the under waterworld where the nagas reign is on the property of the Wat.  Many people go to the Wat to make offerings, and to pay homage to the Nagas.

One of two Nagas guarding the entrance to the causeway at Wat Kham Chanot

Wat Kham Chanot is a very developed temple.  Many changes and "improvements" have been completed since our visit there four years ago.  There is now a formal organized rural market set up on the edge of the property as well as a well established paved parking area on the other side of the property.  There is no need to worry about going hungry or even thirsty when visiting the Wat.

There are actually two parts of the Wat.  The first part they I have alluded to above is situated along the main road.  The second part of the facility is situated on a small island out in a floodplain. The island is heavily covered with vegetation and many large palm and coconut trees.  The origins of the first Wat are on the island. A well constructed causeway connects the island to the main complex.

Shrine located on the island at Wat Kham Chanot

There are several shrines located along the paved walkway on the island where devotees can pay homage to the Naga deity. The causeway is considered sacred ground so people remove their shoes and flip flops before crossing the bridge to the island.

Devotee cleanses her face with sacred water from the Naga well

There is also a pool of sacred water on the island from the under water world where devotees can splash on their face, pour on their head and fill containers to bring back to their homes.  Some people toss water, to make merit, from the pool on the large Naga rising above one end of the pool.



Making an offering of water to the Naga

Besides a heavy concentration of Chanot trees on the island as well as other native vegetation on the island there are many birds along with squirrel's scampering through the vegetation.



Children climb amongst the roots of a Chanot tree



Little boy has spotted a squirrel

I noticed that the trees, especially the roots were very smooth and had a sort of whitish sheen to them.  It was not long before I saw the reason why - people were rubbing baby powder on them.  Why?  Protection from insects?  Animist worship?  Nope - the people rub the powder on the bark to hopefully reveal numbers that they will use for the upcoming lotteries!

Offerings to Naga

The island received a constant flow of visitors during our visit.  Besides making offerings at the several shrines to the Nagas, and receiving blessings at the Naga well, people also make merit, or try to make merit. at several gongs.  People try to make the gongs hum loudly by rubbing their hands over or inside of protrusions on the gong.  I would estimate that about 1/3 of the people were able to make them hum.  Everywhere that we go, Duang is able to make the gongs hum very loudly.  Her ability impresses the other people and she often spends time teaching the others how to do it - to no avail.  I am not able to do it ... perhaps because I do not know what prayer to say before doing it, I am not a Buddhist or perhaps more telling I may not have a "good heart" (good, kind, generous).  I ended up telling the people that Duang was "Pii mer mai"- old lady witch.

Duang making a gong hum loudly

Devotees arrive to worship

At one of the shrines on the island, people made offerings and paid homage to the Nagas.  They also make requests for good luck, good fortune and happiness. However at Wat Kham Chanot there is a different part of the ritual than offering some flowers, candles, and incense along with the prayers.  As I have seen at only two or three other Wats, the devotee can get an indication as to how effective their requests were.  By attempting to lift a sacred relic above their head, a devotee can determine the likelihood that their wishes will be granted.  At the shrine there were two heavy stones which appeared to me to be relics of a stone column perhaps Khmer in origin.  Two by two the devotees knelt before the Naga shrine and attempted to lift a stone relic twice above their head.  Duang was successful.  I asked her about it and she told me that "if you could do it twice it was very good, if you could only do it once that was good, if you can not lift it - it's OK you may still be granted your wishes."

Duang lifts a sacred relic

Naga Shrine

Our recent visit to Wat Kham Chanot was just as interesting as our first visit four years previously.  Like is the circumstances of all return visits to a location, we were better able to understand as well as to appreciate the details of the place.

Worker collects offerings from shrines, making room for more offerings

Quite often people do not visit or appreciate the special places that are close to their home; often planning on visiting them some other day; a day that often does not come.  Wherever you may live there is something unique in your area perhaps something that people from far away may travel to experience and see.  Often an adventure or enlightening experience is not half a world away but merely a few kilometers or miles from your home.

We are fortunate that Wat Kham Chanot is one of those places a few kilometers from our home.


Naga - The Guardians

A Naga Guards the Entrance to Wat Si Bunruang 

Isaan is a very special place here in Thailand.  Readers of this blog have some idea about the people, beliefs, festivals, and places that make this area so interesting and special.

We are in the midst of Vassa (Buddhist Lent, Buddhist Rain Retreat).  The 90 day period of Vassa will end on Wan Awk Phansa (Wan Ok Phansa, Wan Awk Phansa), 19 October.  The end of Vassa is a time for merit making and celebration throughout Isaan.

It is also time for a very special and unique cultural event - Bang Fai Phaya Nak just north of us in Nong Khai Province along the banks of the mighty Mekong River.  In this area of Thailand the Mekong River separates Thailand from the Lao People's Democratic Republic as well as the ethnic Lao Loum people.

This year the Bang Fai Phaya Nak Festival will be 18 - 19 October.  The festival celebrates a local phenomenon of glowing balls of light that rise from the depths of the water into the night sky before disappearing.  This phenomenon are most reported during the full moon of Wan Ok Phansa, the last day of the Buddhist Rain Retreat.

A Lighted Ship Floats Down The Mekong River During Bang Fai Phaya Nak

The celebration occurs on both sides of the Mekong River, Northeast Thailand and Laos sharing a common heritage and culture.

The legend that explains the fireballs is that the they are caused by a large serpent, Naga (Phaya Naga) that lives in the river.

Naga is a mythological deity that takes the form a a very great snake.  Nagas are found in the traditions and legends of Hinduism as well as in Buddhism.  I have written before about the amalgamation of Animist, Hindu and Buddhist beliefs and traditions here in Isaan.  The area was once Animist before Hindu and then Buddhist believers arrived.  Today in Isaan traditions and beliefs from all three remain a very strong part of not only the culture but of individual daily life.

Back in May, I wrote a blog about the Bun Bang Fai Festival - the festival in which rockets are fired into the air at the start of the monsoonal rain season here in Isaan and neighboring Lao.

http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2013/05/ban-that-rocket-launches.html

The tradition of firing the rockets is rooted in the Buddhist mythology in which Nagas play a large roll.

A Long time ago, during one of Buddha's many reincarnations, this time as a toad, the rain god (King of the Sky), Phaya Tan  (Taen) was angry with the people and animals. Buddha ( Phaya Khang Khok)'s, sermons were drawing people and creatures from earth and sky away from the King of the Sky.  He decided to punish them by withholding the necessary life giving and sustaining rains.  After seven years, seven months, and seven days of drought, the surviving people along with the animals got together and consulted with Buddha.  After much deliberations, they decided that Phaya Nak (Naga), the giant snake, would lead them in war against the rain god, Phaya Tan.  Phaya Tan defeated the giant snake and his troops.  After eventually overcoming Phaya Tan, Buddha rewarded  Phaya Nak (Naga) for his loyalty as well as service with the honor of being guardians.

Naga At Entrance to Sala Pha Bang, Royal Palace Luang Prabang LPDR

There is also another Buddhist legend involving nagas or snakes.  Today, young man who are participating in the ritual of becoming a novice Monk, after renouncing their worldly goods, are considered to be a "naga".

When Buddha was walking around preaching and teaching his disciples, Naga The Serpent King (Phaya Nak) took on human form, asked to become a Monk, and followed Buddha around listening to the sermons.

One day the naga fell asleep and reverted back to his snake form. Buddha told him that he could not be a Monk because he was not of this world - only humans could be a Monk. The naga agreed to leave the Sanga (religious community of Monks) but requested a favor. He asked Buddha that all young men who are about to be ordained as Monks be called "nagas". Buddha agreed.

To prevent a recurrence of this incident, all young men as part of their ordination are asked if they are human. Phaya Nak, despite leaving the monkhood, continued his devotion to Buddha and is often depicted in art as the seven headed cobra shielding Buddha from the rain.

Later on Buddha was traveling to perform a sermon during Vassa in the second heaven for Buddha mothers and the angels.  When Vassa ended and Buddha was returning to Earth, Phaya Nak and his followers made offerings and issued fireballs to welcome his return.  Since that time, at the end of Vassa fireballs rise from the Mekong although I did not see any when we attended Bang Fai Phaya Nak in 2009. The fact that I did not see them does not mean that they did not exist.  There have been times when others standing next to me, have seen "Phii" (ghosts, spirits) that I did not see
 and my camera did not capture - all more the reason that we hope to attend this year's festival.

Seven Headed Naga Guards Entrance to Sala Pha Bang, Royal Palace Luang Prabang LPDR



The Royal Barge "Anantanagaraj" - Seven Headed Naga Bow

Seven Headed Naga Guarding the Entrance to Wat Phra That Choeng Chum
Sakon Nakhon, Thailand

In our travels along the roads of this area, we became aware of a very interesting Wat in the village of Ban Kho Noi.  I have intended to photograph the Wat's grounds but it was not until two days ago that I had my camera and the weather was good.

Main Entrance to Wat Si Bunruang

I find Wat Si Bunruang very interesting because of the statues located at the entrance gate, entrance road and along the the front perimeter wall of the facility.  Two large and very colorful Nagas flank the ornate gateway to the Wat, their heads rising up at the entrance and their thick blue boodies undulating along the top of the wall to their up raised tails some eight meters away.  Along the front perimeter wall and alongside the driveway into the Wat are several thepanom (thep phanom), Thai angels.

Inside of the platform that supported each thepanom was a internal space for the storage of bones.  Many of the platforms had the opening to the reliquary was sealed with a plaque which included a photograph as well as information about the deceased person.

The encounters with the Naga of Wat Si Bunruang and researching this blog, has piqued my curiousity to attend Bun Bang Fai Phaya Nak next month.  I have check with Duang and, as usual, she is prepared to go on anther of my forays into the culture of Isaan.  Perhaps this year we will actually get to see the fireballs.

I have also got her to buy into attending this year's Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival which we attended last year.  Same same but different?  I think so.