Here's Hoping That Third Time Is Really the Charm

Our Spirit Houses - Relocated Once Again

Here's hoping that the saying "Third time is the charm" or perhaps the saying "If you want a job done correctly the first time, hire a professional"  well maybe not "hire" in this case but rather "use the services of" is true.

When we moved into our home in Udonthani in September of 2008 there was a special ritual to install two spirit houses on our property.  Spirit houses (san phra phum) are shrines to the animist spirits. The houses are found throughout Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia. The spirit house is built like a miniature Buddhist temple mounted on a pillar or platform. They are meant to be the homes of the land spirits.

Spirit worship, referred to as "Animism", in Thailand goes back to the migration of the Thai people from northern Vietnam. Animism predated Buddhism in Thailand and Buddhism developed side by side with Animism in Thailand. The two religions are very intricately interwoven and many practices today in Buddhism are actually Animism beliefs and rituals.

The spirit houses are a shrine where offerings of food, fruit, flowers, candles, incense, water, soft drinks as well as whiskey are made.

The san phra phum provide a dwelling for the wandering guardian spirits for the buildings and areas of  land. The spirits can cause problems and suffering if they are not kept happy. There are spirit houses at homes, shopping centers, businesses, government buildings, factories, oil refineries - everywhere but at a Wat. The spirit houses are not part of Buddhism.

The spirits are kept happy by offering them gifts frequently. People believe that the spirits can influence coming events, grant wishes, and keep people healthy. I have seen the daily ritual of offering candles, incense, fruit and whiskey made at some Go-Go bars prior to opening for the night.

I wrote about the installation of our spirit houses in a previous blog back in September 2008.

http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2009/01/17-september-2008-spirit-houses.html

Everything seemed to going just fine until 2010.  In 2010, Duang's uncle, who had selected the location for our spirit houses and performed the ritual associated with installing them, became ill.  He was hospitalized and was eventually sent home when the doctors said that they could not do anything more for him.  In October 2010, another Shaman had told Duang and her relatives that the uncle would be dead within two weeks unless our Spirit Houses were relocated.  According to the Shaman, Duang's uncle was not fully qualified to do a spirit house installation ritual.  We went ahead and had the Shaman do a relocation ritual of our spirit houses.  He actually ended up leaving one in the original location in the front yard and moved one house to our side yard.

The relocation ritual was subject of a blog entry on October 29, 2010.  Amazingly Duang's uncle who had been sent home to die survived well into 2012.  We were fortunate to be able to visit him a few times upon our return to Thailand before he died this October

http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2010/10/having-answers-faith.html

Amazingly Duang's uncle who had been sent home to die survived well into 2012.  We were fortunate to be able to visit him a few times upon our return to Thailand before he died this October

Recently my wife has been dealing with a health issue along with family issues in addition to a number of funerals that we have been attending since our return from the USA.  Apparently in consultations with people, Duang became convinced that the problem was due to our spirit houses.  Even though the spirit houses had been relocated by a second Brahman, the spirits were still not happy which was manifested in the issues that Duang and her family were dealing with.

I do not get into metaphysical discussions with my wife regarding her beliefs.  I support her because those beliefs provide her comfort and a moral compass.  It is her heritage and her culture. Her devotion to those beliefs was part of what attracted me to her in the beginning. I am content to just know what her beliefs are.

Mass Transit In Isaan - 14 People in a Pick Up Truck

Duang made all the arrangements to have the Monk from the Wat outside of her home village to come to our home and preside over the relocation of the spirit houses.

Last Thursday, the Monk, his handler, Duang's mother, our grandson, Peelawat, and 10 grandmothers from Tahsang Village arrived at home in the early morning for the relocation ritual.  The grandmothers were a combination of aunts and friends.  Personally I suspect that they were Tahsang Village's answer to the "Red Hat Society".

Monks are not allowed to drive motor vehicles or to travel unaccompanied with women so each Wat has a layman who will assist Monks in these activities.

Under Peelawat's Watchful Eye, Women Prepare For Ritual

While the Monk determined what should be done with the spirit house, the women helped Duang to prepare for ritual and common meal for after the ritual.

Preparing Petals for the Ritual

Part of the preparation was to strip a bunch of chrysanthemums of their petals and place them on a religious pressed metal stand.  Other preparations include setting up plates and trays of bananas, oranges, grapes, coconut  and other fruits as offerings to the spirits.  Duang had also had me buy a box of beer, Leo, but that turned out to be an offering to the old ladies rather than to the spirits.

After the Monk had finished the ritual he came inside and ate his only meal of the day.  When he had selected his food to eat, I went upstairs to get a break from the animated conversation of the old women while they outside underneath our car port.  Later in the day, I thought that I would treat myself to a beer.  I was shocked to discover that the ladies had drank all the beer.  Perhaps that was the reason for the animated conversations.

Duang and Tey's Grandmother Prepare White Candles for the Ritual.

Besides having a Monk performing the spirit house ritual, this relocation involved me more greatly.  I had to stick some of the burning Joss sticks into the fruit offerings that Duang had placed before the spirit houses.  In previous rituals, I had only held on to three lit Joss Sticks.  Perhaps that is what was missing?  Maybe it was the white candles in addition to the yellow candles?  We also did not use chrysanthemum petals previously.

Duang Places Lit White Candles

The Monk Lights Joss Sticks

The relocation ritual concluded with Duang placing some long garlands over the relocated houses.

The morning went along well with the only "issue" being our grandson, Peelawat. starting to sing out a sort of snake charmer music that I hum to him when we play Muay Thai boxing.   The music is played when the boxers perform their "wai khru ram muay" but is definitely not appropriate to do when a Monk is chanting as part of a formal ritual.  His great grandmother quickly stopped him.

I am optimistic that having had a Monk perform the ritual, the spirits are happy now and the spirit houses can remain where they are now.

Duang is feeling more secure and confident now that the houses have been properly installed in the correct location - at the side of our yard.  She says that it will all be better for us and the family now.

As for me, I am wondering and perhaps I am somewhat confused.

In late September, I was contacted by a client in Europe who wanted to use 23 of my photographs in a public display.  We had agreed on pricing and I had sent a Limited Copyright License Agreement for use of the photographs along with an invoice.  In late October I contacted the client and informed them that the invoice had not been paid nor had they returned the conformed Limited Copyright Agreement for use of the photographs.  The client informed me that they would check with the public institution where the photographs would be displayed.  After almost two months of no word, I believed that there was no longer an interest.

The very night that the spirit houses were properly relocated, I received an email informing me that the project had been approved and the funds allocated.  By the end of the next day, I had received both the conformed LCLA and the license fee.  When I told Duang of the developments  Duang just knowingly smiled and said "Buddha take care, now"

This is not the first time that unexplained things, for me, but ordinary based upon Duang's faith and beliefs have happened.  I often joke that I have no hope if she decides to use her powers against me.

I have written that in my blogs that I write of what I have seen and experienced.  I do not try to proselytize.

I wrote earlier in this blog that I support Duang in her beliefs because those beliefs provide her comfort and a moral compass.  It could also be that after having witnessed and experienced several things with her  ... I am keeping my options open or at least keeping the spirits happy.

Luang Prabang - Sala Pha Bang



Altar for Displaying Pra Bang

As I wrote in a previous blog, my top priority for our last day in Luang Prabang, Laos, our stay in town day, was to go to the Royal Palace Museum specifically to check out the Sala Pha Bang.  The Sala Pha Bang, also referred to as Haw Pha Bang, is the Royal Chapel and is located in the northeast corner of the Royal Palace Museum compound.  It is not an ancient building.  In fact it is not a very old building.  It was originally constructed in 1963; Western calendar and not "1963" 0f the Buddhist Era calendar which would make it 453 years older.

Sala Pha Bang In December Late Afternoon Sunlight

The King of Laos directed that it be renovated in 1973.  With the Communist Pathet Lao taking over control of Laos in 1975, the project was abandoned.  Over the years the Communist government relaxed its restrictions and attitudes towards the Buddhist religion with the project to renovate the Sala Pha Bang recommencing in 1993.  According to my 2005 edition of Lonely Planet guidebook, "Laos", the project was scheduled to be completed at the end of 2004.  During our first visit in February 2008, interior work specifically painting, installing pieces of brightly colored reflective glass, and applying gold leaf on intricately carvings was still ongoing.  I had estimated that the project was about 80% complete at the time.

It is interesting that it appears that no matter the form of government, government projects always seem to have budget and schedule problems.  In all my years of working on private projects, some considered to be Mega-Projects, the projects were seldom late.  Of the very few that were completed late, they were weeks or perhaps a couple of  months late but never a year let alone more than 4 years late!

The purpose of the restoration of the Sala Pha Bang was to prepare it to receive and store a statue of Buddha referred to as "Pra Bang".  The "Pra Bang" is a staue of Buddha in the "Dispelling Fear" position.  The statue is most likely Khmer from the 1300s although legend has it coming from Ceylon in the 1st century.  In 1359 a Khmer King gave the statue to his son-in-law in Laos which gave the monarchy there Buddhist legitimacy.  The statue has been venerated by the Lao people since that time.

We arrived at the Royal Palace Museum at 11:00 A.M. only to discover that it was closed until 1:30 P.M.  We took advantage of the closing to pursue a dream that had come to me in my sleep the night before.  My dream was not a quest for anything spiritual or involving any mysteries of either life or the universe.  In my dream, I was eating a Croque Monsieur sandwich.  Croque Monsieur is a grilled hot ham and cheese sandwich.  Before I left the cultural rich Luang Prabang area, I wanted to eat a Croque Monsieur.  Earlier in the morning we had encountered a French woman at a French cafe near our hotel who told me upon my informing her of my culinary quest that the best Croque Monsieur was served at the the Elephant Restaurant.  We asked around and found out where the Elephant Restaurant was.  It was back close to where our hotel was.  We eventually found the restaurant and sat down in what appeared to be a 1920's French brasserie.  That should have been a tip off.  The second tip off was when I was presented a leather bound wine list - A3 size (8.5 inches x 11 inches) FOR LUNCH.  I looked at the menu and there were some very tasty items described but no Croque Monsieur!  I checked and double checked the menu.  I had Duang explain to the waiter what I was looking for and he brought the maitre d' over.  We were in the wrong place!  But we were not the only ones or I doubt the last ones who had made the same mistake.  It turns out that the Elephant restaurant runs two other restaurants one of them being "Le Cafe Ban Vat Sene" about three blocks away and almost across the street from our hotel which did serve Croque Monsieur.  We made our apologies and left what our 2005 version of Lonely Planet guide book for Laos describes as "One of Luang Prabang's most elegant Western eateries ..."

We found the correct cafe and I enjoyed my fabulous Croque Monsieur and a French fruit tart while Duang enjoyed her Thai food entry for lunch.  With one obsession satisfied we walked back down to the Royal Palace Museum.

A Side Staircase to Sala Pha Bang

After paying the entrance fee, we headed directly over to the Sala Pha Bang.  As was the situation two years ago, people were busy posing for photos in front of the building.  Many of the people were flashing the "V" sign for their portrait - definitely not something or someone that I wanted in my photos.  We wandered off to the side and back of the building to find ourselves completely alone.  This was also the situation two years ago.  People all want to see what everyone else has seen and what everyone else will easily recognized.  After getting their photos which are just like everyone else's photos they scurry off to the next well recognized venue.  However just as there are two sides to every argument, two sides to a story, there are many perspectives to a venue.  By investing more time, sometimes just a little more, and more footsteps, you can better appreciate and experience a location.  For me it is not appearing in a postcard photo but for me it is all about the sights form all angles, sounds, smells and ambiance of a location. Not that I should be complaining; for if more people shared our travel philosophy Allen's World would be much more crowded!  I am fortunate that this philosophy also works for Duang so I always have someone to share the complete experience with. 

Exterior Door At Back of Sala Pha Bang

Main Staircase At Back of Royal Chapel

Handrail Detail of Naga At Back of Royal Palace Chapel

We eventually arrived at the front of the Royal Chapel and entered.  The restoration work had been completed but the venerated Buddha was not on display.  There was a lone female attendant seated in a plastic chair in the corner of the fabulous room.  Duang pulled up a spare plastic chair and started speaking with the attendant while I went about oohing and ahhing as I took photographs.

The interior was filled with intricately carved walls, ceiling, and columns.  In many locations any flat areas were filled with pieces of reflective colorful glass.  Most of the carvings were covered with gold leaf.  We had watched the craftsmen applying some of the gold leaf two years ago.  No adhesive is utilized to apply the gold leaf to base structures.  Static electricity from the super thin gold keeps the small sheets of gold attached.  Craftsmen use very fine brushes to apply the gold leaf in place and to brush out any trapped air between the leaf and the base.

Perhaps because the Pra Bang was not on display, there were few visitors to the inside of the chapel.  During our one-and one-half visit to the Chapel, there were no more than 15 to 20 other visitors.  This made it very convenient to thoroughly enjoy the beauty and mastery of the building.  I was able to lay flat on the floor and stare up at the ceiling.  The ceiling was dark red with carved gold leafed carvings of life in Laos a long time ago.  Mixed in with the scenes of Lao life were representations of Buddha's many lives.  Some of the scenes reminded me of scenes from the "Ramakian" back in Bangkok.  I suspect that the scenes are actually from the Hindu epic "Ramayana" upon which the Ramakian is based.


One of Several Murals in the Sala Pha Bang

There are also several carved gold leafed murals on the walls that I am certain are based upon the Ramayana.  It was a feast of intricately carved figures, gold leaf, and rich dark red paint.  Inside the chapel there were several ornate columns.

Ornate Interior Columns

Group of Ornate Interior Columns

One group of visitors to the Chapel while we were there was a Buddhist Abbott, two young Monks, and a Maechi; a female who is someone between an ordinary layperson and an ordained Monk - all from Thailand.  They spoke some English so I was able to communicate with them along with Duang's Thai conversation.  The entire atmosphere was very relaxed.

Monks Visiting From Thailand

The Lao attendant convinced that we posed no threat or perhaps just bored, left us alone after awhile.  left us alone to the extent that she left the building.  After  I had been photographing  a while Duang had to go to the bathroom.  Believing that I could not get into any trouble she left me alone while she walked to the far side of the compound where the restrooms are located.  There was no need for me to show her where they were because she had used them two years ago and just prior to entering the Sala Pha Bang.  Well Duang's belief that I would not get into trouble was not justified.  As I was photographing the beauty that surrounded me two small groups of people came in.  In both groups a person touched the intricate gold leafed carvings.  I was polite but I did not suffer in silence.  As in the protection of children, I believe we all need to contribute to the protection of our heritage be it art, or natural wonders.  In the absence of the attendant I decided to take on the roll of guardian of the Lao heritage.  I informed both people in Thai to not touch the carvings that it was not good to do so.  When Duang returned, I told her and she smiled somewhat embarrassed by my activism.  I get upset when people though their ignorance, callousness, or non-thinking endanger works of art or heritage for others.  When the attendant finally returned I informed her of what happened and also pointed out to her to be on guard for others.  I felt better  but I also had the nagging suspicion that she was also like too many other government employees.

Interior Door Detail - Buddha Upon A Lotus Flower

We left to walk back to our hotel where our bag was being held and where our driver was to pick us up to go the airport.  Our flight was scheduled to leave at 5:50 P.M. so we planned on meeting our driver at 4:00 P.M.  When we were about two blocks from our hotel, I saw out of the corner of my eye a Tuk-Tuk slow down which is not uncommon in Luang Prabang.  Tuk-Tuks constantly are hustling about trying to fares.  However when this driver called out he was laughing and smiling - it was our driver.  Since we were so close to the hotel, I waved him on.  Once again he had arrived early!

Duang and I could not believe how quickly our day about town had passed.  It had been a great day for the end of a great visit.  Although we had seen all the major items that we planned on for our second visit to the area, there were still many things that we still have yet to see or do in Luang Prabang.  Many things to see and do; reasons to return for a third visit some day.

The Boy Who Dances For Monkeys

Peelawat and the Monkeys of Kumphawapi

Our 18 month old grandson, Peelawat, has been doubly fortunate recently.  Twice we have taken him to medical clinics to get his scheduled vaccination.  When he was born his parents were given a paper book in which his medical statistics are kept.  In addition the book informs the parents of what shot and vaccinations as well as when they are required.  His height and weight are added and charted on pages in the book.  It appears to be a very effective communication tool for ensuring the health of babies.

Twice the clinics have not had the vaccines so he did not get his shots.  Both times we took advantage of the time as well as location to visit the local wild monkeys.  Peelawat enjoys monkeys perhaps as much as I do.  Whereas he will run from chickens and cats that approach him, he stands his ground and often closes ground with the wild monkeys.

A Typical Private Medical Clinic in Isaan

In Isaan there are government clinics set up in various villages throughout the area.  Poor people can obtain free medical care there by showing a government issued Medical ID Card.  Duang and I once accompanied him to one of these clinics outside of his other grandmother's village outside of Kumphawapi.  It was a great place, it was packed with babies and toddlers.  It was interesting just to sit around and watch the parade of babies and children through the facility.  The rural clinics are more than just a room for medical treatment of the local villagers.  The clinic is a walled or fenced compound with a building for medical treatment, and a building where the doctor and his or her family live.

Freshly Powdered Peelawat Checks Himself Out at a Clinic

Since Peelawat has been staying at his great grandmother's home in Tahsang Village, we took him to a private medical clinic in the nearby town of Kumphawapi.  Medical clinics are staffed by doctors from the local hospital.  The doctors typically are available in their clinics from 9:00 A.M. after their morning hospital rounds until Noon and then again from 5:00 P.M. until 8:00 P.M.  Various clinics specialize in specific groups or conditions.  There are clinics for babies.  There are ear, nose, and throat clinics.  There are OBGYN clinics.  There are fertility clinics.  There are General Practice clinics.  As people identify a need for a doctor, they show up at the appropriate clinic, sign in or grab a number and wait their turn to see the doctor.  So far in almost three years here in Isaan, we have yet to make a scheduled appointment with a doctor - if scheduled appointments are even utilized here.  If the clinic is too busy you are told of another clinic in the area that could help.  A final  resort would be to go to a local hospital to see a doctor.  Local hospitals are usually a last resort because they provide free services to qualified poor people there by increasing waiting times significantly.

Peelawat Weighs Himself and Contemplates the Growth Chart

Peelawat Checks Up On Another Patient At the Clinic

In addition to clinic visits, we also visit the monkeys on our trips to the Amphor visits and market forays in Kumphawapi.  Peelawat always enjoys watching the monkeys.  You can always count on the monkeys to put on a show for your amusement and entertainment.  This expression "More fun than a barrel full of monkeys" is a realistic observation.  Monkeys, especially the young ones, tease and play with each other while hanging from trees.  Monkeys are also very curious and clamber all over parked cars, under trucks, and on motorbikes to look for food or to just check things out.  Peelawat has now become a very accomplished monkey spotter.  He will constantly point them out to me and say "Ling, Ling ..." (Monkey, Monkey)

Happiness Is Being Amongst Friends

Besides getting excited when he sees monkeys, Peelawat will also breakout into a dance.  I am not sure if it is an expression of joy or is meant to entertain the monkeys.  Whatever his motivation, I find it amusing.

Peelawat Busts A Move for the Monkeys

Another "Monkey Greeting Dance" Move

Four Monkeys In the Park

In the central park of Kumphawapi you can purchase food, peanuts, to feed the monkeys.  Peelwat likes to get in the middle of the monkey feeding frenzies that frequently occur as people throw out food for them.  Peelawat is not intimidated but Yai Duang, Grandmother Duang, can only bear to watch for a short period of time before she races in to "rescue" him despite his protests.  Peelawat and Tah Allen, Grandfather Allen, then both get a lecture regarding not getting too close to monkeys.

Yai (Grandmother) Duang to the Rescue

Life here in Isaan can be different but is usually entertaining and interesting.  With a boy who dances for monkeys, I eagerly anticipate our next visit together with the monkeys of Kumphawapi.

Giving Thanks for Granted Favors

Here in Isaan spirituality plays a very important role in the day to day activities and rituals of the Lao Loum people. Many of my blogs describe my experiences as well as observations contributable to the amalgamation of Buddhism, Hindu, and Animist beliefs here in Northeast Thailand. The life of the Lao Loum people is anchored and validated by their faith.

A big aspect of Lao Loum belief is requesting Divine intervention into their daily life. People make offerings and pray for favors such as obtaining money, getting a job, finding a spouse, recovery from physical ailments and all the other reasons that many people in other places in the world pray for. I have witnessed Go-Go girls making merit prior to performing on stage. Performers in my brother-in-law's Mahlam Lao shows make an offering prior to the start of their performance. In some entertainment venues, a wood or stone linga (phallus) is placed in a shrine area to solicit good luck and fortune for the business and workers. This object is part of a small shrine, generally ascribed to being Buddhist, at which incense is burned, candles are burned, soft drinks, glasses of water, shots of alcohol, and garlands are offered. It is somewhat complicated although the shrine is mostly attributed to Buddhism, in fact most of the elements as well as ritual is derived from prior Animist, Brahman, and Hindu beliefs.

The role of spirits in their daily life is often manifested to Lao Loum people in their dreams. Dreams and the interpretation of dreams is a serious concern to the inhabitants of Isaan. There is a government sponsored daily lottery in Thailand with many of the numbers selected by people being based upon their recent dreams. Often the interpretation of dreams leads people to pray to counter the dream's phophetized future. Often Monks are consulted to determine what the future may hold for an individual. Reading of palms, interpretation of wax drippings into water, consulting tables of numbers, card reading and shaking of numbered strips of bamboo or plastic to obtain a prediction of the future, are all utilized to help provide direction and assurance to one's present life. As a Westerner, I find this interesting but not very plausible. As a person who has lived here for approximately four years and with intimate knowledge of some specific predictions, I still don't believe in the process but I am respectful of the beliefs.

All this leads us to our task for 01 April here in Udonthani. A year ago on a rainy night in June, Duang and I went to a special shrine here in Udonthani. The shrine is located at the north end of city center at the boudary of Nong Prajak Park. The shrine is dedicated to the the founder of Udonthani, Prince Prajak. It is a very popular shrine for the local people. There are hundreds if not thousands, of animal statues placed at the shrine in appreciation for answered prayers. Other offerings such a coconuts, food, soft drinks, along with garlands are also widely spread around the small shrine. I was leaving for the United States the next day to attend my divorce hearing. At the time, I thought that the purpose of the visit and the offerings was to seek good luck and safety on my journey. On 31 of March, Duang had a dream related to her incantations of that evening. When she awoke on April 1, she realized that her prayer that I would choose return to her and remain in Thailand had been granted but that she had not made an offering in recognition and thanksgiving.

We went to a specialty shop that sells concrete animals and figurines for the purposes of making offerings at shrines. Duang purchased an elephant and a zebra as well as a couple of human figurines. The elephant and the zebra were each about two feet long and one foot high. The cost was roughly $15 USD total. I am somewhat familiar with the idea behind offering a statue of an elephant. The elephant is a sacred symbol in Thailand with origins for this going back to Brahman and Hindu beliefs. I am at a loss to explain the significance in offering a zebra statue. At the shrine there are also many horse statues for which I also can not explain either the significance or reason.

Duang and her brother made the offering while I kept busy taking some photographs.

17 September 2008 - Spirit Houses

Spirit Houses - San Phra Phum or House Warming Part II
Wednesday, 17 September 2551 (2008)

We got up this morning to what I thought would be a normal "catch-up" day for settling into the new house. I had fixed the issue with the drain for the washing machine last night so we were good to go on washing one week of piled up laundry.

We had two loads completed by 8:00 AM.

At 8:30 a pickup truck pulled up in the rain to the front of the house. It was Duang's uncle the shaman, who I now know is actually a "Brahmin priest". Duang had mentioned yesterday that he was coming over today to finalize where to put the spirit houses for our home.

If she mentioned it, I did not understand that this is no simple matter.

Along with her uncle were six other relatives bearing gifts of food - a cooked duck, a cooked chicken, sticky rice (kao knieouw), chilies, raw pork, raw beef, fresh corn on the cob (kaoput) and all kinds of green leafy things.

Out came some of the 26 woven reed mats (saht) that we had received as house gifts last week. Rather than set them on the floor inside the house as we would do in the USA, Duang set them outside on the concrete pavement of the carport. Loam Lao people prefer to cook and eat outdoors.

Duang's uncle and another man looked over the front yard and selected the proper place to set up the spirit houses after a great deal of contemplation and deliberation - the northeast corner of the property. The rain stopped at that point - believe it or not. I saw it stop! The other man sat down with a cutting board and knife to prepare the beef and pork. The pork was prepared to be cooked. The beef was chopped up very finely to a paste consistency. Chilies are added to the paste so that it can be eaten raw with small ball of sticky rice. The women scattered about to perform their chores. Two headed to the kitchen to cook food. Two women sat on the patio and were preparing small items of food.

I helped carry the concrete blocks to the area where the spirit houses would be placed. A 5 foot by 5 foot raised area about 8 inches high was built with the blocks. While this was going on, the two cocktail tables from the living room were placed outside in front of the two disassembled spirit houses.

As the people continued with their work, I realized these tables would serve as a type of altar. Four ceramic lotus flower cups each with a yellow candle were placed on one of the tables along with some flowers and leaves. Two incense holders made out of a ceramic bowls filled with Isaan sticky rice (uncooked) were added to the altar along with 12 sticks of burning incense. The altar also had two plates with small bunches of tiny white flowers and a handful of small yellow unlit candles.

The other altar had the duck, chicken, fish soup complete with head, betel leaves, and a large platter of fresh fruits along with two small ornate metal goblets filled with water.

Everyone got involved with placing small items on and inside of the spirit houses. It was quite an involved operation. It kind of reminded me of decorating a Christmas tree - everything had to be exactly and precisely placed in the proper location. The degree of exactness, precision, and proper location was subject to a great deal of discussion, debate, and some trial and error - just like decorating a tree at Christmas. Once there was agreement, three chairs were brought out and placed in front of the altars facing the spirit houses.

Duang's uncle had changed his shirt to a fine white garment along with a white towel draped over his shoulder. Through hand signals I was placed in the middle chair with Duang to my left and her uncle seated to my right. The four candles were lit and the ceremony started.

Duang's uncle read some prayers out of a notebook of hand written words. He had previously requested that Duang write our names in Thai and given to him. At three points in the ceremony, our names were spoken - I know because he couldn't pronounce my name and Duang helped him! There didn't seem to be any problem with that.

One of the water goblets and one of the incense holders was placed on each of the spirit houses.

After the ceremony, we all sat down on the "sahts" and had a nice meal of Kao Lao (Lao food).

One of the men after completing his meal, mixed up some mortar and filled in the cracks between the blocks and skim coated the top surface of the platform with it.

The women all pitched in and cleaned up. Duang's daughter in law had arrived earlier to help out. While all the preparations and ceremony were taking place she hung out the two loads of laundry that we never got to earlier in the morning. She then proceeded to clean the entire house. As I have written before, I am amazed at the communal spirit and lifestyle of the Isaan people.

OK - so what about these spirit houses?

Spirit houses (san phra phum) are shrines to the animist spirits. The houses are found throughout Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia. The spirit house is built like a miniature Buddhist temple mounted on a pillar or platform. They are meant to be the homes of the land spirits.

Spirit worship referred to as "Animism" in Thailand goes back to the migration of the Thai people from northern Vietnam. Animism predated Buddhism in Thailand and Buddhism developed side by side with Animism in Thailand. The two religions are very intricately interwoven and many practices today in Buddhism are actually Animism beliefs and rituals.
The spirit houses are a shrine where offerings of food, fruit, flowers, candles, incense, water, soft drinks as well as whiskey are made.

The san phra phum provide a dwelling for the wandering guardian spirits for the buildings and areas of land. The spirits can cause problems and suffering if they are not kept happy. There are spirit houses at homes, shopping centers, businesses, government buildings, factories, oil refineries - everywhere but at a Wat. The spirit houses are not part of Buddhism.

The spirits are kept happy by offering them gifts frequently. People believe that the spirits can influence coming events, grant wishes, and keep people healthy. I have seen the daily ritual of offering candles, incense, fruit and whiskey made at some Go-Go bars prior to opening.

The land spirit expects to be informed if a building is to be modified, or built as well if a business is to be started. For a major refinery project two years ago, as part of the management team, I participated in a formal offering ceremony at the spirit houses at each of the four corners of the refinery for the official commencement of construction. It is quite common in Thailand for large companies to conduct formal and somewhat lavish offering ceremonies. Not to be cruel but - there has been no mortgage or investment bank crisis over here so perhaps they are on to something.

The inside of the spirit house is decorated with small ceramic figurines representing the spirits. There are also figures of elephants, horses or maybe they are cows, servants, dancers, candlesticks and vases to hold incense or flowers.

There are nine guardian spirits that offer different protections. The guardian spirit for houses is named Phra Chaimongkhon and is very powerful. He watches over and protects the home. As an example of the interweaving of Animism and Buddhism, when we lived in Pattaya we often went to a Buddhist temple named "Wat Chaimongkhon".

The guardian spirit for gardens and orchards is named Phra Than Thirat. He watches over and protects the natural surroundings, gardens, yards, and orchards of the Thai family.

Thais build permanent spirit houses for these two guardian spirits. That is why we had two spirit houses installed today for our home.

The gang piled into the pickup truck and headed back to Tahsang Village by noon with Duang's uncle carrying back his satchel of hammer, fish net, and hammock that had stayed here over three days.

Our normal "catch up" day became another cherished memory as well as learning experience for me. In that regard I guess it was normal day.