What A Difference A Week Can Make - Cane Harvest

Sugar Cane Trucks Awaiting Offloading

Last week, activities in the fields in Isaan centered around rice cultivation, more specifically threshing this year's rice harvest.  As you drove along the narrow country back roads you would see clusters of people in the parched paddies collecting the sheaves of rice for threshing.  You would encounter small farm trucks transporting bags of threshed rice back to the farmer's home.  Occasionally you would encounter a small farm trucks transporting sugar cane from the fields to a refinery.  Well one week has changed all of that.  The three month sugar harvest is now well underway.

A Typical Isaan Farm Truck

The back roads of Isaan on now filled with large, very large, and heavily loaded trucks transporting harvested sugar cane from the fields to the sugar refineries. These trucks will run all day and well into the night for the next three months.  The heavy trucks and amount of trucks take a heavy toll on the roads.  It seems that the roads are destroyed after two seasons of the sugar harvest requiring the roads to be replaced every three years.  yes that's right - destroyed every two years and replaced every three.  That is the way it is out in the countryside.  For one year you learn and become adept at avoiding the potholes, lumps, and bumps of the back roads.  I often joke with the local politicians and officials that if they will fix the road that year, I will vote for them.  I suspect that elections are every four years so the roads are fixed every three years as demonstration of the elected officials performance.  Right now the road out to Tahsang Village is great (the elections were in November).

Sugar Cane Laden Trucks At Kumphawapi Sugar Company Refinery

The loaded trucks take the sugar cane to sugar refineries.  On our way to Tahsang Village, just outside of Kumphawapi, Kumphawapi Sugar Company has their refinery.  Between the road and the refinery which is set a ways off from the road, is a large parking area.  The area used to be unpaved and was covered with a thick layer of very red dust.  This year the company greatly improved the parking area, it has been completely paved over with concrete and has a grass covered berm built around it. It is much better now to walk around it taking photographs than when the dust got into everything.  I suspect that the local residents are even more thankful.

The refinery has a limited capacity to offload trucks and to process the sugar cane.  The result of the refinery capacity and uncoordinated delivery of cane to the refinery, is a huge logjam of cane laden trucks at the entrance to the plant.  The parking lot is where the trucks await their turn to enter the refinery and offload their cane. During the height of the harvest, truckers can wait up to three days for their turn to be offloaded.  It reminded me somewhat of the huge line of trucks lined along the highway for about 20Km (roughly 15 miles) during the soy bean harvest waiting to enter the port of Paranagua, Brasil to ship their cargo out.

Trucks In Line to Enter the Refinery

At the Kumphawapi Sugar Company, the trucks arrive and log into the security office.  The truckers are given a number and they park their trucks to await their turn by number to get into the line to enter the refinery.  We spoke to a trucker and found out that he had already been waiting one day.

Passing Time, Waiting For Their Number To Be Called

Hearing that he had been waiting a day and knowing that some truckers end up waiting three days to offload, got me to thinking about how the truckers make money.  Do they own the trucks?  Are they hired to drive someones truck?  Are they paid by the hour?  Are they paid by the day?  Are they paid by the load?  Are they  paid by the weight of cane that is delivered?  Fortunately Duang was with me to ask and get answers for me.

For the most part, the drivers are hired by companies that own the trucks.  The drivers are paid by the amount of sugar cane that they haul.  The driver that we spoke with is paid 6 Baht ($.002 USD) per metric ton of sugar cane hauled.  For a tandem trailer, two 35 ton loads, he makes 420 baht ($14 USD).  General farm labor had been running 150 Baht a day but now it is closer to 300 Baht a day ($10 USD).  So running and offloading in one day is not that bad.  However, taking two or three days to offload is not very good.

The drivers pass away the time by socializing, listening to ethnic music, and sleeping.

Have Hammock, Will Sleep

Many of the drivers will sleep in their trucks overnight.  Food is readily available.  Townspeople have set up little stalls outside of the parking area where food and drink are available.  Some of the drivers, like the driver that we spoke to, drive their trucks back home for the night and return to wait once again early the next morning.  They keep the same number in the line until they are off loaded - whenever that may be.

Although it was a public holiday, The King's Birthday/Father's day here in Isaan, some people had to work.  Their work schedule is dictated by the ancient cycles of farming - times for sowing and times for harvesting.  There is also the need to take advantage of any opportunity to make a living.  Where opportunities are great, any opportunity, no matter when, can not be ignored.

Sugar Cane Trucks In Kumphawapi On Father's Day

A Morning In Isaan

Rice Drying Out In The Morning Sun

 Monday morning Duang asked me to take her back out to her home village for the second day in a row.  She is working with her cousin to make new slip covers for our patio furniture and the task is taking longer than she expected.  I suspected that she knew that I would be less than enthusiastic to make the trip because she told me to bring my camera because we could visit our grandson at his school in Kumphawapi.  Her strategy was very effective - we left early in the morning, I carried my cameras and wore a smile on my face.



Pre-Schoolers (3 and 4 year olds)  Line Up for Start of the Morning Classes

We arrived at Peelawat's school just in time for the start of the day at 8:30 A.M.  The school is a large public school in Kumphawapi.  There are 1,400 students ranging in age from 3 (pre-school) to 15 (ninth grade).  Since it was a clear day, all students congregated and eventually assembled in the central courtyard.

The central courtyard was a concrete paved area dotted with trees, concrete benches, with several sections that had flowers and ornamental plants.  Portions of the paved area were set up with posts where badminton, volleyball, and takraw could be played.  There were also several stalls where students could buy food, drinks, and ice cream.  Our grandson, Peelawat, always asks for 5 Baht ($0.15 USD) to take to school to buy food.  The school provides milk free of charge to the pre-schoolers.

The school has a band comprised of bass drum, snare drums, xylophones, along with mouth organs (small plastic keyboards powered by blowing air into them through a plastic tube).  At the appointed time the band marched into place and there was a flag raising ceremony.  All the students sang the Thai National Anthem.  Afterwards there was a Buddhist prayer.  Thailand is 97% Buddhist and Buddhism is actually the state religion.  However the country is tolerant of other religions.  I have visited mosques in Bangkok, and attended Christian ceremonies here in Isaan.  I have also seen Mormon Missionaries here in Udonthani.

Pre-School Students and Classroom, Kumphawapi - No Furniture to Get Hurt On

Pre-Schooler's Bookbags

At the conclusion of the prayer the little children walked off to class with their teachers.  The older children seated on the concrete by individual classes, did some warm up type exercises for arms, hands, fingers and shoulders.  The school Principal; then addressed the student body.  He started slowly and gently about having the older students look out for and after the young students. he then built up to saying that too many students were not brushing their teeth and not washing their hands after lunch.  he built up to a crescendo about four "Naughty" boys had to go see him after the assembly along with their teachers as well as parents - apparently. according to Duang, the boys had been caught with video games at school.  The Principal was definitely not happy.

On our way back to the truck, I saw one of the teachers inspecting his students one by one.  Most students passed inspection and were given a nod as they passed.  Some students were subjected to a closer inspection, some passed and some others were told  something and received a swat across their backside.  Each teacher carried a one meter long and about 12mm diameter bamboo rod - something like the pointers that some teachers used for the blackboard when I went to school.  However here in Isaan the "pointer" was more versatile.  For the pre-schoolers it was used to help position the students where they needed to be.  For the older students it was used to strike them when they misbehaved or to humiliate them for infractions.  Yes, there is still striking of students, corporal punishment, in schools - at least here in Isaan.  The striking that I saw would no way near come close to causing injury or even pain but was humiliating for sure.  Personally I find that a little humiliation is a small price, especially a cost that be easily avoided, to learn that there are consequences to our actions or lack of action.

We stopped by Peelawat's classroom to see what it was like.  It was very clean and well organized.  It did not have any furniture for the students.  The students sat on the floor to learn their lessons.  This is just like most of their their homes - no tables, chairs of desks.  Outside of the classroom there was a rack where all the students had placed their shoes before entering the classroom.  On one wall of the classroom student's book bags were neatly hung.  The bags are used to transport their homework assignments to and from school.  Homework?  Yes, even at 3 years old, students have homework.

We spoke with Peelawat's teacher to determine how he is doing in class.  We knew that he was a good boy and behaved well.  However he is also very shy so there was some concern that he might not be learning as much as he could by not fully participating.  His teacher assured us that he was doing fine.  She informed this as she was multi-tasking.  Three and four year olds at the pre-school are toilet trained but for some boys, zippers and buttons remain a challenge.  A little boy had gone to the bathroom but was returning to the classroom with his shorts unzipped, unbuttoned and on the verge of falling to his knees.  With some help, actually she did it all, he was squared away at the classroom doorway and happily rejoined his classmates.

I Can Get By  - With A Little Help from My Teacher

From the school we drove out to Tahsang Village.  A relative wanted me to take a photograph of her second grand-daughter.  I had taken a photograph of her first grand-daughter, Kwan, and given her an 8 x 10 print, so she wanted one of her other grandchild.  No problem - I don't mind keeping my models happy.

The relatives, who live across the street, more aptly "wide sidewalk" from the "Inside" Wat were busy.  I pulled in to the Wat to park and was greeted by smiling, laughing, and exuberant relatives.  Were they happy to see their falang relative?  Perhaps.  Were they happy because although it was 10:00 A.M. they had been drinking "Lao Lao" (whiskey - a sort of moonshine)?  More likely!

Rice Drying In the Morning Sun at the "Inside" Wat, Tahsang Village

The men and some of the women were busy with the rice harvest. They had spread the ubiquitous blue netting on the ground at the Wat across the street to dry in the sun.  Much of the rice had already been collected and bagged prior to our arrival.  The men were loading the filled bags on to a wagon that would be pulled by a lowt thai lek across the street to their home.

Gentleman, Start Your Engine!

The guys started to tease me about taking photographs and not helping them to load up the wagon with the 50 kg bags.  I told them that I was a foreigner and that I could not work; the police would take me to jail.  As a condition of my Visa to stay in Thailand, I am not allowed to work in Thailand. Although true, everyone in the family also knows that it is my favorite excuse for not performing manual labor under the hot glaring sun.  the men were all in a great mood and kept up teasing until I finally gave in.  Just prior to giving in I saw a partially filled bag amongst the stack.  It was about 10 kg.  I went over and picked it up with one hand in such a fashion as to convey "So what is the big deal about loading up the wagon?"   The guys immediately caught on and pointed out that I needed to do a full bag.  I obliged and hoisted a 50kg bag on to my shoulder, walked over to the wagon, and placed it on top of the stack.  After overcoming the initial shock that I did, or perhaps that I could do it, the men all decided that it was time to go across the street for another drink - including me.  Since I was driving and you can not count on other people to follow the driving laws let alone staying out of your way when you may be driving impaired, I declined the Lao Lao and settled for a glass of Pepsi.

Filling the Family Granary

We crossed the street followed shortly by the filled wagon of rice sacks.  As happens in every family, there was one man who was not fully, if at all, to the physical labor.  Everyone was r
teasing him about it.  Strangely enough, when I started taking photographs of the other men working, he decided to help.  Well in all the activity that was going on, I did not get a shot of the one bag that he off loaded.  I told everyone that my camera was not fast enough to catch him working and that I needed my movie camera which was at home. Duang translated and every one roared with laughter.  I guess that it was a pretty good joke because I was offered whiskey once again which I declined.  The man subject to all our joking was sitting down and complaining ( I suspect jokingly) about hurting his shoulder.  I asked where and he pointed it out.  I drew closer to him and blew on it three times like I do when our grandson shows me his injuries.  This is similar to what some Monks do in a healing ritual.  I also gave him a little massage and told him that he was OK now to go back to work.  There was more laughter, and offers to drink whiskey.  He did do another bag and I did get his photograph.

With His Pakama Wrapped Around His Waist, A Villager Hauls A Sack of Rice

The sacks were carried from the wagon to the family granary - an elevated composite structure of wood and corrugated metal.  In the countryside of Isaan, you will see these structures at almost every Lao Loum home.  The year long supply of rice for the family and the seeds for next year's rice crop are stored in them.  I noticed some holes in this one and asked if they were going to fatten up some rats for Duang's mother to cook.  Last week she cooked a rat and offered Duang to eat some.  Duang refused.  I double checked to ensure that I understood correctly.  According to Duang people do not eat "small rats" (I am assuming she means mice) but they eat "big rat like chicken, big rat eat sugar cane" which sounds like your typical rats running around rice paddies, cane fields, and granaries.  Every one had another good laugh.

Another Sack, All In A Morning's Work

Milling Rice In the Morning At Tahsang Village

The morning was getting on but I wanted to show Duang the miller that I had visited earlier in the morning.  While Duang was paying her respects to her mother an father, I had wandered around the village to see what was going on.  It was so quiet because all the children 3 years and older were off at school, that I could hear the sound of some  machines.  I had a good idea what it was and followed the sounds to the backyard of the villager who mills rice.  This will be the subject of an upcoming blog, "Miller Time ...  In Isaan".  I had photographed a couple of years ago and earlier in the morning.  I had left to get more of my gear but had been delayed getting back to him because of the family next to the Wat.  The miller had finished his work, but I got to take more shots of the equipment while Duang talked to him - there is always something to talk about with just about anyone or everyone here in Isaan.

Scavenging For Scrap Metal

Duang was concerned about me getting too tired from the past two days of photography in the hot weather and admonished me to not stop on the way home.  I told her that I would listen - "a little bit".
Although I did not plan on stopping along the way, circumstances did not cooperate.  Once again opportunity presented itself to my curiosity.

Just outside of Kumphawapi is a sugar refinery.  Across the road from the refinery is a large vacant piece of land where the solid waste from the sugar refining process is dumped.  The waste is a very black sandy type organic soil that farmers use to fertilize their fields.  The waste is very smelly - an almost sickening sweet pungent odor; so smelly that Duang and I refer to it as "kee oi" (sugar shit).  Several times as we have passed the area, there have been many people going over the piles of waste.  I asked Duang why as well what they were doing.  She told me that they were looking for mushrooms.  Well this time there must have been 4 times the number of people that I have ever seen on the piles.  The sugar harvest is just barely getting started so the piles were not all that big.  By the end of the season the pile will be about 8 meters high and at least 200 meters by 200 meters.

I pulled over to the side of the dirt road perimeter of the area and parked amongst the somlaws, motorbikes, and pick up trucks.  I quickly determined that the people were not looking for mushrooms but were picking scrap metal out of the piles.  The piles this day were not just sugar refining waste but included concrete debris, industrial debris, rubber machine belts, bamboo, plastic sheeting and garbage - s if an industrial plant was being demolished and dumped on the field.  Despite the sugar shit odor there was also the smells of cow dung and palaa (at least 6 month old fermented fish) - not all that pleasant an environment to photograph in but it was new and different to me.  The people were friendly and I asked if they had found any gold and communicated to them with pantomime and my limited vocabulary that I wanted to find some gold.  We all shared a laugh, most likely at my expense, but it is such a small price to be able to photograph a part of other people's lives.

In the USA, there are special days when people are encouraged to bring their children to work.  I always smile at that concept for here in Southeast Asia everyday is bring your child to work day if not have your child work with you.  Small children are brought out to the cane fields, rice paddies, and on this morning out to the dump.  There was one little boy who was neither amused or pleased with my presence.  He was around a year and one-half.  He at first cried when he saw me but after being consoled by his mother just kept a weary stare at me for the entire time that i was there.  Luckily I had a longer lens on one of my cameras so as they say here it was "Good for me, good for him".  I was able to get my photographs without getting closer to him.

A Nice Drink of Water In the Morning

As Their Son Keeps His Eyes On Me. A Family Looks For Scrap Metal

It had been quite an interesting morning here in Isaan and as I drove back to our home listening to the ethnic Lao music I could not help but reflect upon what I had seen as well as experienced.  For Americans, tomorrow is Thanksgiving a day when people gather to give thanks for their blessings.  It has always been one of my favorite holidays, not necessarily for all the wonderful food and drink, but the realization of the things that matter in your life.  Although we do not celebrate it in our home here in Isaan, I am thankful on Thanksgiving and every other day for the blessings that I have received past, present, and anticipated in the future.  One of the blessings being "A Morning In Isaan" and another - still being excited by as well as interested in the life around me.

The Race Is Done, The Races Are Done

Duang Wears Her Funeral Clothes to the Races

Prior to going to the final long boat races in Kumphawapi on Sunday, we attended a funeral in Tahsang Village for one of Duang's relatives.  The woman was 82 years old and had been ill for a long period of time.  She had not left her home in 10 years.  Her race is done. The big difference for this funeral was that it was a Christian funeral.  Duang had never been to a Christian funeral before and I could tell that she was a little apprehensive about attending.

Unlike the typical Lao Loum Buddhist funerals that we have attended there was a noticeable effort made by people to wear black clothing.  Buddhist funerals based upon my experience are a pretty much come as you are ceremony.  At Buddhist funeral rituals, I have not seen people dressed for mourning.  At the Sunday Christian funeral the women were dressed in black and the men if they were not in black wore dark more formal clothing.  Soccer shirts were not the fashion of the day for the funeral.  Duang had made a black lined lace long length skirt and blouse some time ago so she was dressed appropriately.

We first stopped at Duang's mother's house in the village and picked up Peelawat to attend the funeral with us.  When we arrived at the home of the deceased relative there were many similarities and many differences with a Buddhist funeral.  OK - the obvious one - there were no Monks.  This may seem a facetious remark, but after awhile of living here in Isaan you become accustomed to and expect to see Buddhist Monks at all events.  To not see Monks at an event is a revelation.

The body was inside one of the refrigerated rental coffins that are used for Buddhist funerals.  There was a large framed photograph of the deceased person supported by an easel next to the coffin - just as for a Buddhist ritual.  There were many floral bouquets surrounding the coffin.  The floral arrangements were a Western style and would be not out of place at any funeral home in the USA.  At Buddhist funerals the floral arrangements or tributes appear more Eastern style and plastic. In addition to floral arrangements there were some some black signs with silver writing - I assume to the effect of "Rest In Peace"  Unlike a Buddhist funeral, there were no offerings of robes, blankets, rice, food or whiskey placed on top of the coffin.  There were several lit candles on the floor in front of the coffin but no Joss sticks.  People knelt on sahts in front of the coffin and candles to say their prayers.

Outside of the home the scene was very much like a Buddhist funeral.  Women were busy preparing the traditional foods that are served to guests at special celebrations or ceremonies - sticky rice, cucumbers and salad greens, pork larb, raw beef with chilies, and meat soup.  The cooking was performed over a combination of charcoal and propane fires.

Tables and chairs were set up underneath the canopies for guests to eat and wait.  On each of the tables there were 1.25 liter bottles of Coke and Sprite as well as bottled water.  There was also a small metal bucket of ice cubes for the soft drinks.  This was just like a Buddhist funeral.  However, unlike a Buddhist funeral there were no bottles of beer of whiskey available for the guests.  In addition, unlike the Buddhist funerals that I have attended, there were no card games or other forms of gambling going on.  There is, as they used to say in the Old West or at least in the Old West movies, a new sheriff in town.  Gambling is illegal in Thailand except for the National Lottery.  It is just like in America with drugs and prostitution being illegal.  If you are looking for it you will find it and often quite easily.  Here in Isaan "arrangements" or "accommodations" can be made to ensure that your card games, dice games, or numbers game will not be interrupted or more importantly - you will not be interfered with.  The former arrangements are no longer valid or available.  There is a new head police official in the area and he is cracking down.  Even with the Police crackdown, I believe that there would not have been any gambling at the Christian funeral - Duang's Christian relatives are rather conservative and fundamentalists.

The funeral ritual commenced with ... well the best way that I can describe it as was a pep rally cheer.  Duang's cousin who appeared to be like a Deacon got up and said something like , according to Duang, "Christian good" to which the congregation punched their fists in the air and shouted "Amen" and "Hallelujah"  This was repeated three times.  The people then sang a song to the accompaniment of a guitar and keyboard.  I was not familiar with the song but it sounded nice and seemed appropriate for the occasion.  Duang asked me if the same thing would happen when we attend a funeral in America.  I attempted to explain to her the differences between the various Christian denominations and how their rituals are different.  I think that she understood but then again I have explained Christmas to her but when I deviated from the religious aspects of it and brought in Santa Claus - "the wheels fell off the vehicle". 

When divine intervention is sought for our family back in America she prays to Santa Claus as well as Buddha in her nightly ritual.  When conditions improve, she points out to me "Good. You see Buddha and Santa Claus take care, take care good"  I now realize that all this confusion could have been avoided if I had not put money in her sock that was hung with care in front of the hotel television set of our room in Bangkok on Christmas Eve two years ago. Since she is so comfortable in her believes, I don't make a good thing worse by trying to explain even more.

After explaining some of the differences between a Roman Catholic funeral ritual and Protestant funeral ritual, Peelawat decided he had had enough and he wanted to go back home.  I drove him back to his home so I missed the remainder of the funeral.  After awhile Duang walked back to her Mom's house and we were ready to leave.  We did not leave for the races quite yet.  We had to visit another cousin's house in the village.  We had attended their Christian wedding a while ago and now they had a one month old daughter.  The baby was having a Bai Sii ceremony (Animist Ritual) later that day to, depending upon your religious persuasion; welcome the baby into the community and family or to bind the necessary 32 spirits inside of her so that she would be healthy, and have good luck.  No matter the reason for the ritual, everyone could agree that it was cause for a party.  There would be live music, food, beer and whiskey after the ritual.  We paid our respects to the family and especially the sleeping baby before heading out to the races.  Although we were invited to the party, we were not going to attend. It had already been a busy weekend and we were getting tired.

Just as the previous day, finding parking was no problem at the races.  It was a warm afternoon and Duang was not dressed comfortablely for a full day at the races.  She was wearing her funeral outfit as well as short high heels - not very appropriate for walking on the rough bank of the levee.  I realized that we would make only a short stay at the races.  Other factors were to play in the decision to stay only a short time.

We walked up a dirt road to the top of the levee and headed to the starting line.  There was definitely more people watching the races than the previous day.  Everyone appeared to be in good spirits - literally and figuratively.  The beer and whiskey was flowing easily.

We found Duang's brother where we found him the previous day.  We bought a Lemon Ice Tea to enjoy and to cool off a little.  He was in a shaded area so I told Duang to stay with him while I took some photos.

One Way of Traveling In Isaan

I used to take photographs mainly of landscapes and animals.  However my overseas experiences have allowed me to evolve into mainly photographs of people.  Here in Southeast Asia, photographing people is not difficult.  Besides the many interesting subjects that are available, the people in general like to be photographed.  Right after leaving Duang with her brother, I saw a young father arriving with several children.  He was on a motorcycle with his two or three year old daughter in front of him.  The remaining children were in a sidecar.  Besides the beauty of the little girl, I found the children in the sidecar to be an attractive and unique subject for a photograph.  Although I was some distance away, I had a telephoto lens to capture the scene.  The young father noticed me and posed the family for me to photograph.  He was not suspicious or paranoid.  He was friendly and no doubt proud.

Oops I have been spotted - still an interesting photo

I took advantage of the situation and walked over to say hello and show the photographs to him and the children.  They appreciated the photos - well everyone except for his young daughter, she was afraid of the falang.  It is always interesting to realize how different we are and to young children frightening because of our appearance.  I don't take it personally.  I take it as an opportunity to demonstrate to a small child that falang (foreigners) despite our looks can be "Khun jai dai" (people with a good heart).  Yesterday the little girl was not buying anything that I was selling.  She remained suspicious and apprehensive much to her father and her uncle's amusement.  They asked me to photograph them so i was pleased to accommodate them.

After spending some time with the family taking their photos, showing their photos to them and trying to communicate I was a marked man.  Duang had joined me on my walk along the top of the levee.  People would try to talk in English and then would be amused when I answered back in Isaan.  I came upon a large group of young been who had been celebrating.  They wanted their photo taken so I obliged.

ATeam that Told Me that they were #1- one of several teams to do so that day

A little further along the levee another team stopped and wanted their photo taken.  I asked them if they were "Number 1" and they said that they were.  I told them in my limited Thai that I did not understand because the other team had told me that they were #1 and they had different uniforms.  They caught on to my joke and we had a big laugh.

Another Team Claiming to be #1 - I guess that they are all winners

I had Duang stay in the shade while I went off to take a few photographs prior to leaving.  I told her it would be around 15 minutes.



Most Races Are Won or Lost At the Start



A Close Race at the Midpoint

Someone is going to win, the other is going to lose - so it is in long boat racing

As I was wandering along the levee I was called over to a small bar or restaurant - a collection of plastic chairs, plastic tables, an ice chest, a charcoal fire, and a canopy.  A group of middle aged men were partying it up.  They offered me a glass of whiskey.  I declined and tried to communicate that I had to drive my truck and that the Police like falang too much for me to be stopped after drinking - an allusion to the practice where foreigners sometimes get stopped and "fined" 200 baht  ($6 USD) for Fill In The Blank  I sure didn't want to get stopped and have the Police discover I had been drinking.  The guys were very friendly and insisted that I share a drink.  Not to be unfriendly I drank the whiskey.  To be polite I stayed a little longer to talk.  They offered more drink which I declined and informed them that I had to get going because my wife would be angry.  They then wanted me to sell some whiskey.  I believe they wanted me to buy a bottle of whiskey.  I acted dumb and said that I did not understand.  Not much upsets me over here but there is one thing that really BOTHERS me and that is people assuming that because I am a foreigner I must be rich and therefore obligated to buy drinks for anyone and everyone. I don't support redistribution of wealth in America and I will not support or participate in it any where else.  Where I come from a free drink is no strings attached especially after it was politely refused to begin with let alone one free drink obligating the recipient to buy a bottle.  Just then Duang appeared.  I reminded the guys my wife would be angry and I had to go.  After introducing Duang we said good bye and left.  I told Duang it was time to go home, the people were getting too friendly for me.  She was tired and glad to hear that our days at the races had ended.

The Blue Team Approaches the Starting Area

A Day At the Races

The Race Has Been Run, The White Boat Has Won!

Saturday, 13 November, was the first day of long boat racing in Kumphawapi.  It was a great day for the races - blue sky, bright sun, mild (for here) temperatures, and only a slight breeze.  Keeping our word to Peelawat, we drove out to Tahsang Village to bring our Grandson to the races.

We arrived at the races at 10:00 A.M.  It was upon arrival that the surprises of the day commenced.  The first surprise was that there was not any traffic jams in Kumphawapi.  The second surprise was that finding convenient parking was not difficult what's so ever.  We ended up parking at the Amphur (County) Offices a mere two blocks from the main viewing pavilion.  A greater surprise was that all parking was free.  There were no paid parking lots or people charging for parking in front of their home.  My wife could not believe that people in the USA are charged $5, $10, and sometimes $20 for parking to attend a public event.  I did not dare tell her about the parking fees associated with attending an NFL game.

The Kumphawapi races were a free event like so many other events here in Thailand.  We have attended many Mahlam Lao shows, two Phuket Vegetarian Festivals, Poi Sang Long Festival, Phi Ta Khon Festival, Ubon Candle Festival, New Years Festivals, Ban That Rocket Festival, Mango Fair, Naga Fireball Festival, School Field Day, and OTOP Expositions without being charged for admission.  It seems that getting together to celebrate and to enjoy a sense of community are higher priorities here than having an opportunity to make money.

We knew that the Princess was coming to the event so I wanted to avoid the confusion and security issues of the main viewing area.  As it turned out she attended at 7:00 P.M.  We walked north along the flood plain levee to find a suitable location to view the races.  The top of the levee is a single lane dirt road.  The water side of the road was lined with pavilions, some which had wood benches, offering spectators shelter from the sun.  The other side of the levee road was lined with food and beverage booths as well as carts.  Beverages ranged from Lao Kao whiskey, beer, soft drinks, lemon ice tea, to bottled water.  Food was the typical Isaan selections of BBQ chicken, chicken feet, warmed dried and very salty squid, papaya salad (Pauk-Pauk), Isaan sausages, and prepared ethnic dishes.  No one would go thirsty or hungry - for sure.  Another surprise, at least to me, was that the food and beverage prices were the same everyday prices that are charged.  The vendors had not taken advantage of the event or location to inflate their prices.

Cheerleaders, Isaan Style, Encouraging the Boats

Across the water there appeared to be a similar set up with one exception.  Across the way there was a large tiered stage set up just about even with the finish flag - the stage was for CHEERLEADERS.  For several of the races throughout the day the stage was filled with cheerleaders waving poms poms.  The cheerleaders were dressed in typical Lao Loum clothing reserved for special occasions rather than the skimpy outfits customary to US cheerleaders.  The Isaan cheerleaders also wore large straw hats that people wear while working in the fields.  This was another surprise of the day - cheerleaders in Isaan.  I do have to admit though that their efforts contributed to the festive nature of the event.



Spectators dancing, Singing, and Providing Non-Stop Banter Next to Large Speakers





Young Boy Singing or Perhaps Howling to the Music

 The water side of the levees had been cleared of brush to provide areas for people to sit or squat to watch the competition.  We selected an area underneath a large tree which provided us with shade for the entire day.  Duang had told me that there would be 30 boats starting the competition.  Surprisingly there were actually 60 boats on Saturday.  With that many boats competing, there was always something going on the water all day long. Boats were going up the water to prepare for their race. Boats were racing down the water. Boats were paddling up from the finish line to return to their club or organization's location. Some boats were off to the side practicing their starts. It became very apparent how important the start was for the boats. I would say that around 90 to 95% of the boats that led at the start ended up winning the race. Getting a long boat moving with approximately 40 people on board from a dead start requires some coordination, strength as well as technique. It was also obvious that the practice starts as well as full sprints in front of and full view of their competition was also sending some not so subtle messages.

Two Long Boats Headed To the Starting Line



Getting Started!

I did see one of the Kumphawapi paddlers point directly at the lead paddler of another boat as they passed by and made a cutting motion across his throat with his thumb and then emphasizing his point directly to the other paddler. With this being Isaan, this gesture may have had nothing to do with the paddling competition for the day. Sometimes there are village feuds between nearby villages. I am aware of feuds between Tahsang Village and nearby villages. Unlike the Hatfield and McCoy feud, feuds in Isaan tend to be dynamic. One village near Tahsang Village who were the "bad" guys are now the "good" guys. The "good" guys are now the "bad" guys. To add to the confusion, for and to me , the names of the villages sound just about the same. Being a foreigner keeps me above the fray so not knowing the "score" or "scoop" has not been a hindrance or liability.

With 60 boats there were approximately 20 clubs or organizations competing.  Each club or organization set up a compound on the levee where the crews rested and their supporters celebrated, practiced celebrating, and absolutely enjoyed themselves.  Each team had their own sound system and selection of Mahlam Lao music to blast out over the water.  Some spectators had driven their boom box pickup trucks up on top of the levee.  A boom box pickup truck is a small truck that has its pickup bed filled with high end speakers as well as amplifiers.  Young men like to have competitions amongst themselves for volume and looks of their machines.  They also tend to be "babe magnets".  The competing music added to the festive atmosphere.

Team Kumphawapi Awaiting Their Race - I am not sure that smoking constitutes proper preparation

Duang, Peelawat, a young cousin from Tahsang, and I found a good viewing location at the water's edge but still shaded by a large tree.  We were close to the Kumphawapi team members and below the massive speakers which helped to reduce their volume at our location.  After about an hour, Peelawat was calling for his Mom and definitely missing his morning nap.  Duang drove the gang back to Tahsang and I remained to enjoy the festival.  I am quite comfortable here and do not mind being left alone in the middle of a crowd and environment that I don't completely understand.

A Paddler Smoking While Awaiting His Race

Watching the Races From the Best Seat In the House

The competitors in the long boat races are not professionals and I suspect that they do not even formally train.  In all our trips to and through Kumphawapi, we have yet to see a long boat on the water other than during the regatta or seen  a group of adults running along the roads.  Each team had to have two distinct uniforms for the regatta.  The uniforms consisted of knock off professional professional soccer team jerseys.  There are many shops in the area which manufacture soccer uniform replicas and sell them cheaply. Competitors wore two jerseys of different colored jerseys.  The irony of the current political state here in Isaan was not lost to me.  The colors for Kumphawapi were red and yellow.  Red is the sellected colors for the Pro Thaksin group, the "Red Shirts" who are very popular here in Isaan.  The "Red Shirts" are opposed by the "Yellow Shirts" in Thailand.  For just one day, here in Kumphawapi the red shirts were also the yellow shirts depending upon the race they were in.  Depending upon the team's color for a particular race, they peeled off the second jersey and wrapped the second jersey around their waist, or tied it around their head if they decided not to wear it underneath the required color.  The paddlers wore a variety of pants to complete their uniforms - cotton shorts, soccer shorts, running pants - whatever they had and didn't mind getting wet.

Team Kumphawapi Member Relaxing - His face is powder for protection from the Sun and he wears a Buddhist Prayer Cloth for protection from everything else.

The boats were long as well as narrow.  They were actually rather flimsy and apparently leaky as well.  Each boat that I saw up close had a couple of plastic bailers recycled from plastic jugs and several large sponges.  Later in the competition. one of the Kumphawapi boats needed some adjustments if not necessary repairs.  I had been watching one of the older paddlers for awhile as he appeared to be playing with some of the water vines that he had pulled out of the water.  At first I thought he was just whiling away some time prior to the start of his next race - akin to whittling a stick.  After another man joined him I realized that there a purpose to his activity.  He was preparing the vines to lash the long boat together.  At regular intervals along both sides of the boat, just behind a seat, there was a metal loop attached to the hull.  Vines were strung between the metal loops and held the boat gunwales in tension.  The two men worked together to replace a couple of the vine tension lashings prior to their next race.  With about 6 loops of vine and several knots the lashing upon drying out was deemed "good to go".  This is indicative of the Lao Loum way of life - making do with what is readily available.

Lashing the Long Boat Together Using Water Vines

Upon first getting on board, the crew concentrated on bailing out their racing shell as well as getting the right people in the right location in the boat.  There was a very long bow on each of the boats.  The long bow was decorated with ribbon, bows, garlands and flowers as offerings to the spirits.  On top of of the bow just before the first paddler there was a small shrine with statues, small spirit houses, more offerings which now included burning joss (incense) sticks.

Spirituality plays a very large part in day to day life in Isaan and for the Lao Loum people.  I have witnessed offerings to the spirits behind stage prior to the start of Mahlam Lao shows.  Many Go-Go dancers will make an offering prior to starting to dance or at least make a "Wai" in deference to the spirits prior to going on stage to perform. Most bars have a shrine to the spirits. The practice of having a prominent shrine to the spirits is not limited to bars or entertainment establishments.  Auto dealers, restaurants, insurance companies, grocery stores, gas stations to name just a few of the types of business that have shrines.   Companies will perform a ceremony prior to starting a project.  Duang makes offerings to the spirits prior to us leaving on a trip.  When people are sick, Baii Sii ceremonies are held to assist them to get better.

Spirituality also pervades into long boat racing.  In addition to the bow offerings, each of the paddlers prior to stepping on board a boat, gave the "Wai" gesture of respect prior to putting their foot in the boat.  When the person had to step out of their boat and cross over two other boats prior to getting to the shore, they gave a Wai to each of the boats prior to entering and a Wai to the last boat that they exited.

Duang returned with the tuna fish grinder that I had prepared for my lunch.  She also had a bottle of cola for me to drink.  This was great but I was in no danger of going thirsty or hungry.  I was hesitant to leave my "good" vantage point close to the boats, close to the water, under a shade tree, with a relatively flat piece of ground to sit on.  I was also reticent to climb up and then back down the rough as well as steep levee bank with all my camera gear on my back.  I just sat there and waited for the food and drinks to come to me.  Just like at a baseball game back in the USA, peddlers were wandering along the levee selling cups of soft drinks and snacks.  I grabbed two cups of Thailand's answer to Kool Aid - 10 Baht each ($0.30 USD) - definitely not USA ball park prices.  A woman walked the levee selling small dried and very salty squid.  In my cynicism, I wonder if she was the soft drink vendor's wife - a great way to increase soft drink sales is to get people to eat very salty squid!  There was also another woman selling snacks out of two aluminum pots - but I was not buying anything that she was selling.  One pot was filled with deep fried or perhaps they were sauteed crickets.  They were small but still not appetizing to me.  The other pot was filled with larger bugs either deep fried or sauteed.  The fact that they resembled cockroaches made they only more unappealing to me.  They were unappealing to me but not to the people around me.  The young father behind me bought a small bag of the crickets and seemed to enjoy them along with his 3 and 5 year old children.  I sat there and enjoyed my grinder and soda.

A resident in Tahsang Village had died two days earlier, so there had been a heavy run on both the Lao Kao whiskey and beer at my mother-in-law's market.  She asked Duang to go into town and buy more stock for the market.  After giving me my lunch, Duang left to buy the items and return them to Tahsang Village.  However prior to leaving she lectured me much like I would expect her to lecture Peelawat about staying where he was and to not wander off.  I mentioned it to her and we both laughed.  This time I listened to her - this time and stayed put.

I enjoyed the next two hours watching the races and taking photographs.  I kept an eye out for Duang and finally saw her coming down towards me through the large crowd that was now settled on the levee bank.  She was in a slight panic.  She had been looking for me and could not find me.  I told her that I had not moved.  With the arrival of more people and more vendors on top of the levee, she had forgotten where she had left me - thankfully it was not Peelawat that she had left behind!  At 61 years old I can take care of myself much better than Peelawat can take care of himself at 21 months.  She started laughing and told me that she went up to one of the men singing and providing a stream of concious commentary on what ever came into his mind on one of the many sound systems along the levee.  He announced 3 times "Mister Allen.  Your wife can not find you. Go where she see you before"  One problem though - no it wasn't the other 15 to 20 competing sounds systems with blaring music and alcohol fueled commentaries.  The problem was that he did not speak English so the announcements were in Isaan (a dialect of Lao) which as Duang says "Me, no understand".  I do remember hearing what sounded like Peelawat saying "Tahlen!!" (Grandfather Allen!) a couple of times and looked but it didn't make sense to me. Fortunately there were not many falang, foreigners, in attendance so the people were able to give her a clue where I was.   Duang and I still laugh about the incident.  Situations like that happen often around here and keep us smiling if not laughing.

The Starting Line - Long Boats Get Into Position for the Start

We wandered up the levee towards the starting line for the races and I mentioned to Duang that her brother should be there since he sells soft drinks from his specialized motorcycle cart. He especially makes a killer glass of "Cha Menouw - (Lemon Ice Tea) from scratch - even brewing the tea fresh for drink. When we arrived at the point on the levee parallel with the starting line there was her brother or "Number 3" as he is referred to. "Number 4" is her youngest brother who is the Mahlam Lao performer. We each enjoyed a great glass of iced tea - 20 baht ($0.60 USD) a glass for friends, family, and everyone else!


At 4:00 P.M. we left - happy, satisfied, and done in by the heat, Sun, and excitement of it all.

Going to the Regatta



Long Boat Racing Teams Practicing the Day Before Competing In Kumphawapi

For the past two or three weeks there have been banners across the streets of Kumphawapi and large billboards outside of the town announcing a great festival from 12 November 2553 to 14 November 2553.  I have lived in Thailand long enough to understand that the year 2553 of the Buddhist era corresponds to the Western year of 2010.

Last year we had passed through town during the last day of the festival but I had not brought my camera gear with me.  I missed out on documenting the long boat regatta.  As we crossed the bridge over the flood plain I could see boats competing.  I vowed to not miss out this year.

Water Festivals and more specifically long boat racing is very popular in Southeast Asia.  Last month there was a large event, "Boun Naam" or "Vientiane Boat Racing Festival" north of Udonthani in the Lao People's Democratic Republic (LPDR) or what is commonly referred to as "Laos" in the West.  Long boat racing in LPDR is not limited to the capital city of Vientiane.  There is a boat racing festival in the former royal capital of Luang Prabang in September.  Long Boat racing also is held during the "Wat Phou Festival" in Champassak during February.

Not to outdone by her neighbors, Cambodia has a very large Water Festival during November 20 to 22 this year, in Phnom Penh.  Up to a million people people will be lining the banks of the Mekong River to witness the boat races there.

Myanmar, also known as Burma, has boat racing.

Here in Thailand there are long boat races throughout the Kingdom in April, September, October and November.

The Royal Flag for HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindorn

This weekend's races in Kumphawapi will be a grand event.  Besides many Thai National Flags decorating the town and venue, there were many flags for HRH Princess Maha Chakri Siridorn.  Apparently she will be presiding over the opening ceremonies tomorrow 13 November.  I learned this the hard way today.

We drove to Kumphawapi early this morning despite Duang's and her daughter's statements that the rqacing was not until Saturday.  I was under the impression that if the banner said 12 November 2553 to 14 November 2553 it meant racing on all three days.  It really didn't matter all that much because we have to go to Kumphawapi to get to Tahsang Village to visit the family.  I told Duang that if there was nothing going on we would drive out to Tahsang Village and visit the family.



Two Boats Practicing For Saturday's and Sunday's Competition

 Well there was plenty going on in Kumphawapi - everyone was busy setting up bleachers, pavilions, temporary restrooms, viewing stands, refreshment stands, and vendor booths - but no real racing.  I suspect that there will be a concert tonight so that could be why "12 November" was on the banners.

Our visit to the venue was not a waste of time.  I was able to scout out locations and determine the sun's location for morning shots.  Having visited the site, we also developed a strategy for the best route to take into town, where we hope to park and how far we think we will have to walk.  In light of our knowledge tonight that the Royal Princess will be in attendance - we are way ahead of the game.


After Their Practice Run A Team Turns At the Bridge

There will be 30 boats competing for a 30,000 Baht prize ($1,000 USD).  There are male teams as well as female teams from around Thailand.  I heard of boats coming from Ubon Ratchathani which is 6 hours away by road.  I was unable to find out if the winning male team gets the 30,000 baht prize and the winning female team also receives 30,000 Baht.  I guess that is why you show up - to find these things out.  It makes life more interesting at times when you don't know the answers, realize that you don't know, and accept that it really doesn't matter all that much.  What is important is to make the most of your opportunities, and enjoy yourself.

We enjoyed our visit to the sight.  There were three boats practicing on the water.  I am hesitant to call it a river.  It looks like a river but a month ago I had my doubts as to how there could be boat races.  The area is actually a flood plain with a narrow stream running through it.  A month ago the stream was filled and clogged with green vines similar to kudzu in Florida.  Today there was a broad expanse of water and hardly a sign of vegetation in the water.  I asked Duang if people had cut and removed the vegetation.  She said no that it all been covered by the water.  This time I listened and believed her.

At these events there are always many booths and stalls that sell potted plants and flowers.  When we arrived in town this morning the vendors were busy setting up their stalls along the street bordering the park where we take Peelawat to see the monkeys.  The stalls are constructed out of metal scaffolding with corrugated metal sheeting for roofs and plastic mesh fabric for walls.  Duang and I were happy but the monkeys were not.  The resident monkeys were definitely upset with the incursion as well as disruption to their territory.  There were several monkeys on top of the sheet metal roofs bouncing up and down as well as hitting the metal with their fists; making a heck of a noise in obvious signs of displeasure - sort of like Peelawat was doing the other day with his plastic tractor when he saw his 3 year old cousin sitting on my knee.  He glared at me and banged the toy up and down on the floor in a highly animated manner as he yelled "Ahlhen Ahlhen, May Ow! " (Allen Allen, No!)  Funny how 21 month olds are so much like monkeys - and just as cute.  I yelled at the monkeys in Thai to calm down which caused the vendors to laugh and the monkeys to run away.

After scouting out the area we drove out to Tahsang Village and had a nice visit.  Peelawat and Kwan were busy playing in the dirt with three very young puppies to keep them distracted. Toddlers and puppies - does it get much cuter?

Tomorrow we will go back to the regatta.  With Royalty being present there may be some challenges but we are up to them.  If worse comes to worse there is always Tahsang Village to visit and the next day of racing with such a highly honored guest.  No matter what i expect it to be interesting - another day here in Isaan.

Long Boat with Rooster Tail Flying