Elementary Schools Field Day

Bem Leads Baan Tahsang Elementary School Students

One of our favorite end of the year events here in Isaan is the Elementary School Field Day.  Actually the athletic competition between schools is elementary and secondary schools within the various sub-districts.

Tahasang Village is part of Tambon Nongwha (Nongwha Sub-district).  There are seven elementary schools within Tambon Nongwha.  Each year, typically at the end of December, the seven schools will gather on a rotating basis at one of the schools for a sports day.  This year, the Field Day was held on 10 January in conjunction with Thailand's Children's Day on 11 January 2014.

The Elementary School Field Day commences with a parade of the participating schools along the public road to the site where the competition is being held.  This is not a parade of the athletes like during the Olympics.  It is a parade of the student body from each of the schools.  The schools are very small so everyone gets to participate in the procession.  Tahsang Village Elementary School has 45 students which is about the size of the other schools.

The contingent from each school is lead by a drum majorette a couple of standard bearers, a student carrying a picture of the King, and the school band, a group of girls all dressed and made up in fancy party outfits with the student body dressed in their school uniforms marching in formation behind them.

Tahsang Village Student Body

The students from all the schools march on to and stand in formation before the pavilions where the local government officials are assembled.  There is a formal flag raising ceremony, singing of the national anthem, singing the King's anthem, chanting of a Buddhist prayer, and many speeches.

After the completion of the speeches, the hosting school performs a routine.  Last year, Tahsang Village as the hosting school performed a choreographed Muay Thai exposition.  This year, in consideration and anticipation of the upcoming creation of the ASEAN community in 2015, the hosting school performed ethnic dances to music unique to representative countries of the ASEAN association.

The next event was the lighting of the Olympic cauldron.  I know that only the "real" Olympics can have an Olympic torch, Olympic cauldron, or even refer to competition as "Olympics".  I know that they have taken legal steps to stop others from "infringing" upon their "brand".  However, this is Thailand, more specifically Isaan, where life is more simple and there are far less concerns about 3 to 14 year olds infringing upon a staid organization like the International Olympic Committee.

At this Olympics, there were no concerns or restriction regarding sexual orientation.  Some of the girls wearing fancy dresses, and highly made up were actually boys.  No one cared and people focused on supporting their school and ensuring that they had a good time.

The cauldron at these Olympics was not fueled by high pressure natural gas.  Our cauldron was actually a rather heavy large metal bowl placed on top of some scaffolding.  The bowl was filled with locally produced charcoal.  A runner ran around the sporting field with an Olympic torch, climbed the scaffolding and set the charcoal on fire.  After a short time, the flames died down and the Olympic flame was more an Olympic smoldering for the remainder of the day.

Once the cauldron was ignited three fireworks were shot high into the air to signify the start of the games.

Each school had their own separate grandstand for students, teachers, and family members.  The grandstands were highly decorated and in individual color schemes.  Family members set up sahts on the ground beneath the grandstand - an area protected from the overhead sun, a great place to eat, drink and rest.

Tahsang Student Prepared for Relay Race

She's Off!

The first competition of the day was the races.  Elementary schools have students aged 3 and up to 14.  In addition to individual races there were relay racing.  I always get a kick at the efforts expended by race officials, teachers, and supporters to first set up 4 and 5 year olds into staggered start positions and trying to hold the eager runners or motivate the not so eager runners to take off at the proper time.  It is great entertainment.  False starts are sometimes called but more often if it reasonably close they are not.  It all doesn't seem to matter all that much because the runners, all of them, seem to have a great time.

The children enjoy themselves competing to the best of their ability - no fancy clothes - no fancy running shoes - just bare feet. Pure racing for the fun of it all.

Tahsang Village Passing the Baton

Bem Runs the Anchor Leg for Tahsang Village

Each contingent of supporters brought their own sound system and selection of music to the games - a sort of unofficial competition.  Music blared across the field from seven different sound systems.  Each school's students who were not competing in an ongoing event typically joined in dancing in front of their grandstand.  Some of the schools had a choreographed dance team providing entertainment. Little brothers and sisters, too young for school, often joined in the dancing. It was a grand sight.

Along the perimeter of the competition field, vendors had set up stalls, booths, and motorbike sidecars from which they sold drinks, food, and ice cream,  Smoke rose and filled the air from charcoal fires where chicken feet, pork, sausages, and other items were being grilled. It was a grand party.

At other booths, students could throw darts at balloons for prizes or use air rifles to shoot at prizes.  Further out, children were bouncing up and down as well as between trampolines.  There was even a small merry go round with suspended seats for children to sit in.

Children Putting On A Show.  Duang Is Giving Them Money - Just Like At Adult Shows

Since this field day was also associated with Children's Day, there were also some children events.  The sub-district sponsored a show where children sang, danced, and answered questions for prizes.  Once again everyone, young and old, was having a great time.

Audience Members Dancing and Singing

Off to the side of the children's show there was an area where children and their parents could water color ceramic figurines. This was another popular area for people of all ages.

Mother and Daughter Enjoying Themselves

Back at the competition area, volleyball, futball (soccer), and takraw were contested.

Bem Sends the Luuk Takraw Towards the Net

Takraw is sort of like volleyball - it is played with a woven rattan ball with three players to a side.  The ball, luuk takraw is put in play by a player on one side tossing it away from the net to a team mate who kicks it over the net to the other team.  Using only the head and feet the object is to keep the rattan ball in play.  If your team can not, the other scores a point.

We left around 3:30 PM., tired but not as tired as some at the event.  One of the Tahsang Village students had fallen asleep back at the grandstand - sound asleep in the comfort of his teacher's lap and arms.

Wai Khru Ram Muay

 

 

In yesterday's blog, I wrote about the students of Tahsang Village performing "Wai Khru Ram Muay".

The complexity, beauty, and hypnotic nature of the ritual is dificult for me to describe in words.  I know that my description of the music as being like "snake charmer" music did not do it much justice.

Today I found a very good clip on Youtube that shows a Wai Khru Ram Muay performed by three fighters.  In a Muay Thai match, the Wai Khru Ram Muay would be performed inside of the ring by the two fighters after they had first entered the ring and paid respects to each of the corners of the ring.  In a Muay Thai match, the fighters may or may not perform their Wai Khru Ram Muay at the same time or in unison. Their movements are highly individualized but share common elements.  Besides paying respect to Buddha, their teachers, their trainers, their country, there is a certain psychological intimidation element to the Wai Khru Ram Muay.

The link to the Youtube video is below:

http://www.youtube.com/embed/OPK5JtxjIM0

Our four year old grandson, Peelawat, performs his own versions of the Wai Khru Ram Muay; I suspect it is something that he has picked up from the older boys at school.  This weekend, I will share this video along with some others of Wai Khru Ram Muay with him and show him a special movement - "Chang" (elephant).

Duang and I attended a match in Pattaya.  The fighters were performing their Wai Khru Ram Muay when one of the fighters went to his knees bent his forehead to the mat and rose his torso upright with his right arm and hand placed at his chin to simulate an elephant's trunk - the place went crazy.  I have practiced the movement ever since and now that he is four, I will pass it along to Peelawat.

I think that it is going to be another great weekend.

Tahsang Village School Sports Day

 

 The end of December, in Thailand, is a special time.  It is a special time, not because of Christmas for the country is 97% Buddhist, but because it is the time of the year when schools conduct their Sports Day(s).

Twice before my wife and I have attended Sport Days that Tahsang Village School has participated in.  This year was an even more special time for the students of the school; their school was hosting the event.

The Sport Day is actually conducted over five days with the last day being like a mini Olympics between competing village schools - complete with opening ceremony, dance routine, and an Olympic flame. Four local schools for children 3 years old to 15 years old were participating in the grand event.

We drove out to Tahsang Village early on Friday 28 December in order to watch the parade of the students from Tahsang Village the short distance to the school at the perimeter of the village.

Some Tahsang Village School Students Awaiting Their Marching Orders

 Each of the competing schools had their individual assembly points along the main street in Tahsang Village. Each school had their students dress in the school uniform.  Within each individual school has a distinctive uniform for their students based upon their age group.  As seems only fitting, the youngest students were at the front of the school's contingent. As is befitting of any marching group. the schools contingent were lead by a drum major or much prettier Isaan version of a drum major.

Bem and Friend Ready to Lead Tahsang Village School Students

The older girls who lead their school's students are dressed in outfits, or rather costumes that the school had rented from a shop in nearby Kumphawapi. Here in Isaan, people are not wealthy and surely do not have money to buy specialized clothing that would wear only a couple of times a year.  Instead of buying, people will rent certain clothing for special events such as this or a wedding.  Many people will rent very beautiful and classy clothing for their wedding.  There are also costumes that are fit for royalty of a long gone era.  There are also costumes that you often see in entertainment establishments in Pattaya, Bangkok, or Phuket.

Bem Leads Her Fellow Students On To the Field

Some of the schools had some of their older girls dressed in traditional Isaan clothing while others had their students carrying the flags of the ASEAN nations along with students dressed in traditional clothing of the peoples of the ASEAN members. The ASEAN member states are Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Brunei, Vietnam, Indonesia, Malaysia, Myanmar, Singapore, and Philippines. They are a regional association that hopes to evolve into a European Union type organization.  The absence of China in the group leads me to suspect that this group is associating as an economic as well as political balance to China in the region.

After the schools had assembled on the field of competition, there was a ceremony to raise the Thai flag, firing of three fireworks, opening speeches, lighting of the Olympic flame or rather the lighting of the pot of charcoal and finally an awards presentation.

Duangchan was awarded a certificate of appreciation by Tahsang Village School for her support and contributions during 2012.  Duang had attended the school for four years but had to leave to help support the family by working in the fields when she was ten years old.  Besides the current students being relatives and friends from the village, I suspect that Duang enjoys being able to help others.  She contributes milk, food, and snacks to the students for special events.   It was nice to see her generosity and support for the students recognized.

Tahsang Village Students Perform Wai Khru Ram Muay

Just as for the opening of the Olympics there was a dance routine for the Sports Day. As hosts for the event, Tahsang Village was responsible for the routine.  They did a fantastic job!  Tahsang Village School has 48 students and I believe all of them participated in the routine. The students wore their blue and red uniforms accessorized with a red headband invoking the mongkhon worn by actual Muay Thai fighters.  The students preformed a stylized "Wai Khru Ram Muay".  The Wai Khru Ram Muay is a warm up activity resembling a dance prior to competing in a Muay Thai match.  Besides preparing the fighter physically and mentally, it demonstrates respect for the teachers and the trainers of Muay Thai.  It is accompanied by unique music which reminds me of the music you hear in old movies where a snake charmer is performing.  For me, the Wai Khru Ram Muay is the best part of most matches.  The movements and music are hypnotic and steeped with a long history.  The students performed it very well.

The Wai Khru Ram Muay is an individualized activity with each fighter selecting the movements to demonstrate his skills as well as personality.  The activity by the Tahsang Village students was meant to be a choreographed routine performed in unison.  To the most part it succeeded in that intent.  However as the saying goes, "There is one in every crowd".

I had left the sidelines and walked to the middle of the field to get some better close up photographs of the students.  As I approached the back side of the performing students, three year old "Eat" broke from formation and re positioned himself directly in front of me.  Then in perhaps in a more genuine display of respect for the tradition of the Wai Khru Ram Muay broke into his own set of moves with huge amount of enthusiasm and unbridled joy.

"Eat" Performing His Own Wai Khru Ram Muay

Eat marches to the beat of a different drummer but you can always count on him marching enthusiastically.  Having marched and on occasion danced to different drummers, I appreciate both Eat's individuality and enthusiasm   I just hope that it does not get him into too much trouble!  No matter, he put on quite a show and was appreciated by the audience.

After the performance concluded. the competitions got underway.  There were running races, relay races, ping pong, volleyball, futbol (soccer), taekraw, and petanque.  There was also an unofficial competition between the schools for enthusiasm - blaring sound systems and students performing competing dance routines vied for bragging rights around the field.

No Need for Track Shoes or Even Shoes to Race In Isaan

It was obvious that many of the younger students did not understand the sports competition but that did not prevent them from enjoying themselves.  They had a good time playing with their friends from school and from the other local villages.  Perhaps best of all, they enjoyed eating and drinking.  The school had food for sales at a nominal price.  Many of the local food vendors had set up their stalls along the perimeter of the school grounds so there was ice cream, ice tea, soft drinks, grilled squid, grilled chicken (all parts), grilled pork, pauk pauk, and other local specialties for sale.  There were a couple carnival type booths for breaking balloons with darts, shooting things with a corks fired from a gun, and ring toss for prizes.  There was also a large inflated slide for children to play on.

Besides the teachers and students there were many spectators at the event. Mothers, fathers, grandparents, brothers, sisters aunts, and uncles all attended the event. They enjoyed themselves watching the children and of course - gossiping amongst themselves.  Duang's Aunt, "Momma Glasses", showed up with a full bottle of whiskey that did not remain full for long.  Everyone was enjoying themselves but then again that is what typically happens when the Lao Loum people get together.

Eat Enjoying Some Ice Cream

Too Young To Go To School, But Old Enough To Enjoy A Cucumber

Tahsang Village School has only 48 students so they did not fair all that well in the sports competition.  If the goal of the day was to win and not lose, the day was a bad day for them.  However, you could not determine that by looking at the faces of the students or the adults.  For them it was a great day, and I would have to agree, because the goal as it is every day is to enjoy life, the life that you have and not the want you would like.  They had tried their best.  They had enjoyed the company of their friends, teachers and family.
Who knows?  Maybe they will win, next year.

Tahsang Village School Fans

A New Gallery Is Available for Viewing

Hmong Lad Unleashes His Top Towards the Target in Laos

A new photo gallery is now available for viewing at the attached link below.  The gallery is comprised of photos of people playing some games in Southeast Asia.

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Competitions/The-Games-Some-People-Play/16232244_iyNBu

Gone to the Races



A School Girl Running Just For Fun

We have been very busy the past month with the final processing of Duang's Immigration Visa to the USA, Duang's son's wedding, Christmas, Hmong New Years in Laos, New Year's Eve and now making arrangements to return to the USA shortly.  One of the surprises that we had was attending a School Field Day.

Last year, at the end of December, we attended a School Field Day involving 6 elementary schools in the vicinity of Tahsang Village. It was a colorful and entertaining day of pageantry, ceremony, and athletic competition.  This year at the end of December we were in Bangkok for Duang's immigration interview at the American Consulate and to celebrate New Year's Eve.  With our business in Bangkok I believed that we were going to miss out on this year's event.

On January 6th we drove out to Tahsang Village in the morning to participate in a merit making ritual for Duang's youngest brother.  Duang was going to have water poured over her by the local Monk as part of the ritual - sort of a super blessing reminiscent of being sprinkled with Holy Water by a Priest in a Catholic Church.  A couple of month's ago Duang planned on the "shower" blessing but because of the cold weather (73F, 23C) she opted out and instead had a more common blessing of water sprinkled on her by the Monk using a brush constructed of very coarse reeds.

Tahsang Village Monk Participates in Merit Making Ritual

I reminded Duang about the cold weather but she told me that she was bringing warm clothes to change into after her big blessing.  I was still not convinced or confident - she wears a sweat suit outfit to bed and covers up with a sheet and heavy comforter now that it has gotten cold (68F and 20C) in our bedroom.  Well once we got out of the truck and walked to wear the ritual would be performed, Duang changed her mind and once again opted out and went for the customary sprinkle blessing rather than the shower blessing.

Competitors Turning the Corner During A Relay Race

After the ritual we found out that there was a School Field day going on in a nearby village.  We gathered up the usual suspects, I mean family members, in Tahsang Village and headed out to the site of the School Field Day.  After driving along narrow roads, dirt roads, past sugar cane harvesting and fallow rice paddies, and even through a couple small villages, we arrived at the elementary school that was hosting the school competition.

We were arriving in the late morning so we had missed the parade of the competitors and their classmates as well as the opening ceremonies.  Several of the young school girls were still coiffed and wearing their heavy make up from the parade but had changed from their fancy traditional clothing into their athletic clothing - shorts and soccer style jerseys.

Schoolchildren Enjoying Themselves and Cheering their Classmates

Just as was the arrangements last year, there were six elementary schools participating in the field day.  Each school had a decorated bleacher set up for the athletes, and their classmates.  Several parents, relatives, younger siblings, as well as neighbors accompanied each of the schools contingents.  It was a very festive atmosphere albeit somewhat chaotic.  Each of the schools, all six of them, had their own public address system along with huge speakers.  Mahlam Lao or more specifically Mahlam Sing music blasted from each of the systems.  The children in the bleachers danced, waved pom-poms, and performed cheering routines.  It was very obvious that they were thoroughly enjoying themselves.  Off to the side of the bleachers, there were stalls, booths, and motorcycle sidecars selling food and soft drinks.  Besides being filled with the hubbub of competing music, the air was filled with the smells from Isaan ethnic food and smoke from small charcoal fires.

"Runner, Get Ready!"



"Go!"

We arrived in time to watch the relay races amongst the schools.  There was no cinder track for the competitors.  There was no artificial track for the competitors.  The relay races were conducted on a grass field that served as the ordinary play field for the school's students.

Her Hair and Makeup Intact From Earlier Procession, A Girl Sets Off In Her Race

The runners did not wear spiked track shoes.  The runners did not wear any type of sport shoes.  They wore no shoes.  They ran barefoot.  For children that wear flip flops or go barefoot in their villages, running barefoot is only natural and not unexpected.  This was running boiled down to its essence and uncomplicated by outside technology or any perceived competitive advantages.  It was competition for sport and glory.

Tahsang Village did not do very well in the races except for one of the girl relay teams.  Just as they did last year the girls won.  One of the girls, Behm, is related to Duang and often drops by to watch me edit photographs when I bring my computer to the village.  Often when I sit in Momma's Market, I will be joined by several of the young village children.  I enjoy showing them pictures of things that I know that they have not had the opportunity to see for themselves.  I try to explain to them about the people, places, animals, and things that I have photographed.  Their enthusiasm and interest encourages me.

Behm (left) and Her Tahsang Village Girl's Relay Teammates

I noticed that Behm was a very fast runner.  That night I mentioned to my wife, Duang, that I thought that one reason that Behm was such a fast runner was the fact that her feet were so long and wide - just like Duang's.  I have often joked with Duang about how large her feet are.  Duange reason that Behm was such a fast runner was the fact that her feet were so long and wide - just like Duang's.  I have often joked with Duang about how large her feet are.  Duang is 5 feet tall and weighs less than 100 pounds but her feet are about twice as wide as mine and not all that much shorter than mine considering our differences in height and weight.  Duang laughed when I told her my theory as to why Behm was so fast.  Duang confided that she too was a very good runner when she was a young girl; always coming in first or second at worst.  We laughed how the "Veeboonkul" large feet made for fast runners.

Race Official Signals he Start of the Race - Banging A Recycled Artillery Shell

I sat out in the infield of the "track" and kept busy photographing the races and the activities around the field while Duang and our grandson, Peelawat, remained on the sidelines with the other Tahsang Villagers.

Go!

Girls Driving Through the Curve

After two hours, Duang came out to tell me that our grandson, Peelawat, was tired and needed to return Tahsang Village.  I looked at my watch in disbelief and realized that it had in deed been two hours.  The races were mostly not very competitive but they were very entertaining.  It was a pleasure to watch students racing for the joy of it.  Although the athletes did not have much in terms of equipment, they were making the most out of what was readily available to them.  More than that, they were enjoying themselves.

A Boy Leads His Classmates in a Very Sophisticated Dance Routine

It appeared that everyone was enjoying themselves at the Field Day.  The students exhibited excellent sportsmanship and were well supported by their families.  The children in addition to either competing or cheering also took advantage of the opportunity to eat and drink with friends outside on a sunny day in Isaan; not all that bad of a way to spend a day outside of the classroom.

Once again I was witness to the manifestation that it is not what you have that brings happiness but appreciating and making do with what you have that can bring some happiness.

The Race Is Done, The Races Are Done

Duang Wears Her Funeral Clothes to the Races

Prior to going to the final long boat races in Kumphawapi on Sunday, we attended a funeral in Tahsang Village for one of Duang's relatives.  The woman was 82 years old and had been ill for a long period of time.  She had not left her home in 10 years.  Her race is done. The big difference for this funeral was that it was a Christian funeral.  Duang had never been to a Christian funeral before and I could tell that she was a little apprehensive about attending.

Unlike the typical Lao Loum Buddhist funerals that we have attended there was a noticeable effort made by people to wear black clothing.  Buddhist funerals based upon my experience are a pretty much come as you are ceremony.  At Buddhist funeral rituals, I have not seen people dressed for mourning.  At the Sunday Christian funeral the women were dressed in black and the men if they were not in black wore dark more formal clothing.  Soccer shirts were not the fashion of the day for the funeral.  Duang had made a black lined lace long length skirt and blouse some time ago so she was dressed appropriately.

We first stopped at Duang's mother's house in the village and picked up Peelawat to attend the funeral with us.  When we arrived at the home of the deceased relative there were many similarities and many differences with a Buddhist funeral.  OK - the obvious one - there were no Monks.  This may seem a facetious remark, but after awhile of living here in Isaan you become accustomed to and expect to see Buddhist Monks at all events.  To not see Monks at an event is a revelation.

The body was inside one of the refrigerated rental coffins that are used for Buddhist funerals.  There was a large framed photograph of the deceased person supported by an easel next to the coffin - just as for a Buddhist ritual.  There were many floral bouquets surrounding the coffin.  The floral arrangements were a Western style and would be not out of place at any funeral home in the USA.  At Buddhist funerals the floral arrangements or tributes appear more Eastern style and plastic. In addition to floral arrangements there were some some black signs with silver writing - I assume to the effect of "Rest In Peace"  Unlike a Buddhist funeral, there were no offerings of robes, blankets, rice, food or whiskey placed on top of the coffin.  There were several lit candles on the floor in front of the coffin but no Joss sticks.  People knelt on sahts in front of the coffin and candles to say their prayers.

Outside of the home the scene was very much like a Buddhist funeral.  Women were busy preparing the traditional foods that are served to guests at special celebrations or ceremonies - sticky rice, cucumbers and salad greens, pork larb, raw beef with chilies, and meat soup.  The cooking was performed over a combination of charcoal and propane fires.

Tables and chairs were set up underneath the canopies for guests to eat and wait.  On each of the tables there were 1.25 liter bottles of Coke and Sprite as well as bottled water.  There was also a small metal bucket of ice cubes for the soft drinks.  This was just like a Buddhist funeral.  However, unlike a Buddhist funeral there were no bottles of beer of whiskey available for the guests.  In addition, unlike the Buddhist funerals that I have attended, there were no card games or other forms of gambling going on.  There is, as they used to say in the Old West or at least in the Old West movies, a new sheriff in town.  Gambling is illegal in Thailand except for the National Lottery.  It is just like in America with drugs and prostitution being illegal.  If you are looking for it you will find it and often quite easily.  Here in Isaan "arrangements" or "accommodations" can be made to ensure that your card games, dice games, or numbers game will not be interrupted or more importantly - you will not be interfered with.  The former arrangements are no longer valid or available.  There is a new head police official in the area and he is cracking down.  Even with the Police crackdown, I believe that there would not have been any gambling at the Christian funeral - Duang's Christian relatives are rather conservative and fundamentalists.

The funeral ritual commenced with ... well the best way that I can describe it as was a pep rally cheer.  Duang's cousin who appeared to be like a Deacon got up and said something like , according to Duang, "Christian good" to which the congregation punched their fists in the air and shouted "Amen" and "Hallelujah"  This was repeated three times.  The people then sang a song to the accompaniment of a guitar and keyboard.  I was not familiar with the song but it sounded nice and seemed appropriate for the occasion.  Duang asked me if the same thing would happen when we attend a funeral in America.  I attempted to explain to her the differences between the various Christian denominations and how their rituals are different.  I think that she understood but then again I have explained Christmas to her but when I deviated from the religious aspects of it and brought in Santa Claus - "the wheels fell off the vehicle". 

When divine intervention is sought for our family back in America she prays to Santa Claus as well as Buddha in her nightly ritual.  When conditions improve, she points out to me "Good. You see Buddha and Santa Claus take care, take care good"  I now realize that all this confusion could have been avoided if I had not put money in her sock that was hung with care in front of the hotel television set of our room in Bangkok on Christmas Eve two years ago. Since she is so comfortable in her believes, I don't make a good thing worse by trying to explain even more.

After explaining some of the differences between a Roman Catholic funeral ritual and Protestant funeral ritual, Peelawat decided he had had enough and he wanted to go back home.  I drove him back to his home so I missed the remainder of the funeral.  After awhile Duang walked back to her Mom's house and we were ready to leave.  We did not leave for the races quite yet.  We had to visit another cousin's house in the village.  We had attended their Christian wedding a while ago and now they had a one month old daughter.  The baby was having a Bai Sii ceremony (Animist Ritual) later that day to, depending upon your religious persuasion; welcome the baby into the community and family or to bind the necessary 32 spirits inside of her so that she would be healthy, and have good luck.  No matter the reason for the ritual, everyone could agree that it was cause for a party.  There would be live music, food, beer and whiskey after the ritual.  We paid our respects to the family and especially the sleeping baby before heading out to the races.  Although we were invited to the party, we were not going to attend. It had already been a busy weekend and we were getting tired.

Just as the previous day, finding parking was no problem at the races.  It was a warm afternoon and Duang was not dressed comfortablely for a full day at the races.  She was wearing her funeral outfit as well as short high heels - not very appropriate for walking on the rough bank of the levee.  I realized that we would make only a short stay at the races.  Other factors were to play in the decision to stay only a short time.

We walked up a dirt road to the top of the levee and headed to the starting line.  There was definitely more people watching the races than the previous day.  Everyone appeared to be in good spirits - literally and figuratively.  The beer and whiskey was flowing easily.

We found Duang's brother where we found him the previous day.  We bought a Lemon Ice Tea to enjoy and to cool off a little.  He was in a shaded area so I told Duang to stay with him while I took some photos.

One Way of Traveling In Isaan

I used to take photographs mainly of landscapes and animals.  However my overseas experiences have allowed me to evolve into mainly photographs of people.  Here in Southeast Asia, photographing people is not difficult.  Besides the many interesting subjects that are available, the people in general like to be photographed.  Right after leaving Duang with her brother, I saw a young father arriving with several children.  He was on a motorcycle with his two or three year old daughter in front of him.  The remaining children were in a sidecar.  Besides the beauty of the little girl, I found the children in the sidecar to be an attractive and unique subject for a photograph.  Although I was some distance away, I had a telephoto lens to capture the scene.  The young father noticed me and posed the family for me to photograph.  He was not suspicious or paranoid.  He was friendly and no doubt proud.

Oops I have been spotted - still an interesting photo

I took advantage of the situation and walked over to say hello and show the photographs to him and the children.  They appreciated the photos - well everyone except for his young daughter, she was afraid of the falang.  It is always interesting to realize how different we are and to young children frightening because of our appearance.  I don't take it personally.  I take it as an opportunity to demonstrate to a small child that falang (foreigners) despite our looks can be "Khun jai dai" (people with a good heart).  Yesterday the little girl was not buying anything that I was selling.  She remained suspicious and apprehensive much to her father and her uncle's amusement.  They asked me to photograph them so i was pleased to accommodate them.

After spending some time with the family taking their photos, showing their photos to them and trying to communicate I was a marked man.  Duang had joined me on my walk along the top of the levee.  People would try to talk in English and then would be amused when I answered back in Isaan.  I came upon a large group of young been who had been celebrating.  They wanted their photo taken so I obliged.

ATeam that Told Me that they were #1- one of several teams to do so that day

A little further along the levee another team stopped and wanted their photo taken.  I asked them if they were "Number 1" and they said that they were.  I told them in my limited Thai that I did not understand because the other team had told me that they were #1 and they had different uniforms.  They caught on to my joke and we had a big laugh.

Another Team Claiming to be #1 - I guess that they are all winners

I had Duang stay in the shade while I went off to take a few photographs prior to leaving.  I told her it would be around 15 minutes.



Most Races Are Won or Lost At the Start



A Close Race at the Midpoint

Someone is going to win, the other is going to lose - so it is in long boat racing

As I was wandering along the levee I was called over to a small bar or restaurant - a collection of plastic chairs, plastic tables, an ice chest, a charcoal fire, and a canopy.  A group of middle aged men were partying it up.  They offered me a glass of whiskey.  I declined and tried to communicate that I had to drive my truck and that the Police like falang too much for me to be stopped after drinking - an allusion to the practice where foreigners sometimes get stopped and "fined" 200 baht  ($6 USD) for Fill In The Blank  I sure didn't want to get stopped and have the Police discover I had been drinking.  The guys were very friendly and insisted that I share a drink.  Not to be unfriendly I drank the whiskey.  To be polite I stayed a little longer to talk.  They offered more drink which I declined and informed them that I had to get going because my wife would be angry.  They then wanted me to sell some whiskey.  I believe they wanted me to buy a bottle of whiskey.  I acted dumb and said that I did not understand.  Not much upsets me over here but there is one thing that really BOTHERS me and that is people assuming that because I am a foreigner I must be rich and therefore obligated to buy drinks for anyone and everyone. I don't support redistribution of wealth in America and I will not support or participate in it any where else.  Where I come from a free drink is no strings attached especially after it was politely refused to begin with let alone one free drink obligating the recipient to buy a bottle.  Just then Duang appeared.  I reminded the guys my wife would be angry and I had to go.  After introducing Duang we said good bye and left.  I told Duang it was time to go home, the people were getting too friendly for me.  She was tired and glad to hear that our days at the races had ended.

The Blue Team Approaches the Starting Area