This Is Thailand - Thankfully!

One of my objectives, actually my last objective, for our trip to Nakhon Pathom last month was to visit a special institution.  According to the e-brochure, "Khlong Tour, Cruising the Majestic Waterways", issued by the Tourism Authority of Thailand in 2007 near Khlong Maha Sawat there was the Palace College And Museum of Ten Schools of Thai Crafts.

The e-brochure described the college as an institution where visitors could observe the training of Thai craftspeople for traditional arts of mother-of-pearl inlay, painting, sculpting, fruit and vehetable carving.  My Internet search for additional details yielded a contact phone number and an address of "Salay-Bang Phasi Rd, Tambon Salaya"  Unfortunately I was unable to determine further details from the "Salay-Bang Phasi Rd, Tambon Salaya" - maps that I accessed either on the Internet or purchased at local 7-11s, more often than not, referred to roads and highways by their number or gave the name in Thai.  Our driver did not speak English and the specific details that I had was only in English.

I had Duang call the phone number and she ended up speaking with some manager at an apartment house!  I had determined from the Internet that the school was open from 9:00 A. M. to 4:00 P.M. It was getting fairly late on our last full day in the area.  The next morning we were going to the airport to fly back to Udonthani.  It appeared that we would not get to visit the school.  We stopped at a gas station to refuel the car, and get some snacks.  Duang and our driver spoke with some people and seemed to make a connection for the school that I wanted to visit.  Surprisingly it was very close to the hotel where we were staying.

We arrived at "The College of Dramatic Arts: Fine Arts Dept" at 2:45 P.M.  The guard at the main gate directed us to a seven story building located at the corner of a modern university complex.  Duang and I entered the building and found ourselves amongst a couple of sculpture studios - studios with sculptures in various stages of completion but no people.

After walking about the studios, we returned to the lobby and went to the elevator.  I suggested to Duang that we go up to the seventh floor and work our way down to look for some people.  We went up to the seventh floor and exited the elevator to find ourselves in a sterile lobby.  Behind a glass partition and a locked door, we saw some people in what appeared to be an administrative office.  After telling them, through a glass section that had some small holes in it for better communication, why we were there, they electrically unlocked the door for us to enter.

This was very reminiscent of our experience at my former junior high school two years ago in America.  Duang was going there to learn English (reading, writing, and speaking) at night school.  One night she apparently left her pencil case with her prescription glasses at the school.  The next day we returned to the school to see if the case had been found.  I had gone to the school in the early 1960's, a time when you or anyone could and would go inside the school, walk about 25 feet inside to the school office and transact your business.  Not any more!  We approached the school and found an entryway very similar a high security entrance to a bank - once you clear scrutiny, you are allowed into a small sterile area where you are subject to additional scrutiny and questioning before being admitted to the office to deal with people face to face.

Our experience in Nakhon Pathom was similar but more pleasant.  Once we got past a single door we were in the office speaking with some very pleasant and friendly people.  We told them that we had learned on the Internet of a place, perhaps this place, where people were trained in the arts.  They told us that they were preparing for a large public exhibition at the end of the week.  We told them that we were leaving to return to our home the next day and would not be able to attend the exhibition.  It was no big deal for me.  I know things like that happen - unexpected situations and circumstances - part of life. As I thanked them and was turning around to leave they asked us to wait and brought us each a glass of cold water.  After a short while we we joined by a very pleasant young woman, a woman obvious with some authority.  After repeating our story to her, she asked us to follow her.  This was the start of our personal tour of the facility - all seven floors with the woman who was an important professor.

A Student Finishing Up Her Painting For the Upcoming Exhibit

We were fortunate during our tour to speak with the few students that we encountered along the way.  Duang was kept very busy interpreting for me and all the other people.  I was encouraged to take as many photographs as I wanted to.  Our tour guide willingly answered all the questions that I had regarding which made for a very pleasant experience.

A Student's Sculpture of Mythological Creatures Central To Thai Culture

Floor by floor, art by art, and craft by craft we toured the facility with our personal guide.  It was a very entertaining and enlightening experience for us.

An Example Of Traditional Thai Painting By A Student

A Student Working On Her Pottery

Wire Sculpture In First Floor Lobby

First Floor Studio Sculpture

Outside Courtyard Sculpture

Our personal tour of the facility lasted approximately one hour.  Looking back at our experience the term TIT (This Is Thailand) comes to my mind.

TIT, This Is Thailand, is an expression often used by expats in reaction to an experience or situation that they have encountered here.  The expression is typically not meant to be complimentary.  It often stems from frustration from falang (foreigners) who have observed or experienced some  aspect or idiosyncrasy of Thai culture or life that is very different than what they are accustomed to or familiar with in their home culture.

I am using the expression in this blog entry as a compliment and expression of gratitude for our experience at The College of Dramatic Arts: Fine Arts Dept.  The kindness and friendliness of the staff was a pleasant surprise.  The staff's concern over our situation and the action that they took to help us was beyond what I normally would expect.  They very well could have saved themselves some time and effort by just telling us "Sorry, we are closed.  We are busy preparing for the exhibit"

But this is indeed Thailand - a place where you will frequently encounter friendly and accommodating people.  These are some of the people who add greatly to the quality of life here.

Scouting Day

Scouts Cross A Rope Bridge

Here in Thailand, in addition to the yearly Elementary School Field Day, there is also a special day dedicated to Scouting.

All school children participate in a scouting program.  The scouting program seems to be modeled after Boy Scouts of America however boys, girls, and lady-boys all participate in the program.

Wednesday is scouting day at all Thai schools.  Boys and girls, grades 1 and above. attend school wearing their scouting uniforms.  During the day they are taught scouting and living skills.

Once a year they gather for an overnight jamboree where the elementary school scouts in grades 4, 5, and 6 demonstrate and practice their scouting skills.  The location of the jamboree rotates amongst the schools at the sub-district level.  Last week the honor of hosting the 200 scouts of Tambon Nongwha was given to Tahsang Village Elementary School.  Duang and I had attended the jamboree the last time that Tahsang Village hosted the event.

We arrived at the jamboree in the afternoon after participating in the setting of the first two columns for the new sala in Baan Mat. Upon parking our truck near the pavilion set up for dignitaries, some of the young men, older brothers and uncles of the scouts helping for the day, off loaded the truck of the five cases of soft drinks that we were donating, and several 8 cubic foot bags of various snack treats that Duang's son and cousin had donated for the scouts. Volunteering and making donations to support the children here in Isaan is wide spread.  Although the faculties of the schools were instrumental in organizing and supervising the day, they had plenty of support from mothers, grandmothers, fathers uncles, aunts, and other family members.the community here in Isaan is an extension of the families.

Off to the side behind where we had parked, many women were occupied preparing food and washing dishes in the school's outdoor facilities.  They were preparing food for all the adults involved in the day's activities.

After making our rounds of hellos to everyone, I was brought to the dignitary area to sit down with the local government officials who were observing the activities.  One of the teachers came to me with a glass that appeared to be lemon iced-tea.  It was a warm day and dusty for sure so I welcomed a refreshing drink.  I was shocked to discover  that what I assumed to be iced-tea was actually whiskey and soda water.  I had drunk about one-half of it when the teacher returned to top me up.  I thanked her and explained that I did not want to drink because I had to drive home.  As Duang explains to me ... "Thailand not like America"  I could not imagine drinking alcohol at a public school event being allowed in the USA let alone having it provided by the school!  Several more times during the day and night I was offered a drink but declined.  Although there was drinking, everyone behaved properly.

The seven camp sites around the perimeter of the Tahsang Village Elementary School had already been set up.  Each of the seven schools had their own encampment - a combination of small two person tents, a lean two shelter using a large tarp or a lean two created by erecting the ubiquitous pavilions used for funerals, weddings, or celebrations for monk ordinations and laying the assembly on its side on about  a 30 degree angle.  Saht, woven reed mats, were then placed upon the ground to complete the shelter.  Some of the campsites also had a properly erected pavilion which served as shelter from the sun and a place to rest during the day.

In the middle of the encampments was a large pile of wood stacked into a tepee shape - the bonfire for the evening program.  Several fluorescent light fixtures were mounted vertically on poles in a large circle around the wood pile.

Throughout the school grounds teams of scouts were engaged in many activities.  The scouts had been organized into teams of either 12 boys or 12 girls.  The team members came from many different schools. I surmise that the objective here was to have the scouts learn to work and cooperate with people that they may not necessarily be friends or even be familiar with.  Each of the teams had and identity, such as "dog", "rabbit", "monkey", and a flag which identified the team - a white background with a red picture of the animal.

The teams did not compete against each other or did they race against the clock.  The objective for each team was to visit each of the approximate 10 activity stations and have the entire team complete the objective.  Each of the activity stations was structured to teach a lesson as the scouts achieved the objective of the activity.  Some of the objectives were team related and some were individual related.

Behind the building that serves as the indoor assembly area for the students, the teams were faced with an activity that stressed the needs as well as benefits of cooperating as a team.  The team was split in two groups of 5 and two separate leaders for each group.  The groups were confronted  with two long and heavy wood timbers. Each timber had 5 sections of tire nailed to the top, forming stirrups.  The groups used the stirrups on their left and right feet to shuffle forward.  In order to move forward a prescribed distance and return to the starting point, it was necessary for the group members to synchronize their individual movements and their magnitude.  The individual leaders provided direction and a cadence for their group's efforts.  After completing the task, the adult scout gave a talk to the students and signed off on the team tally sheet for the activity.  The 12 person team then moved on to the next station.

The Rooster or Chicken Team Reports In to Activity Station

 Upon arrival at the next activity station, the team reported into the adult scout.  They lined up pretty much in formation and gave a chest salute to the adult as their leader and standard bearer announced their readiness for the task.

After the activity station of crossing a moat on a single rope bridge, the scouts moved on to a station where they climbed up a rope ladder to a tree limb and back down a similar ladder on the other side.  The ladder was a continuous ladder that was actually too long. If no one was counteracting the force of a climber on one side, the ladder would move towards the ground on the climber's side making climbing even more difficult.  The key to the team's success was for the team to ensure that climber's were on each side of the ladder at any given time as well as for team members to anchor the ladder at each end.  Again the activity stressed the benefits of cooperation and the need for individuals to act for the benefit of the team.

Not all the activity stations involved physical effort.  On the other side of the building that serves as the school assembly, one of the male teachers was bare chested, had a bright yellow smiley face painted on his ample belly, a bright pink cloth wrapped around his mouth and an Indian, as in Native American, headdress. He remained hidden out of view until a scout team had settled down on the ground.  To the sound of some drum beats and wild music, he would jump into view and perform a wild dance for about 5 to 10 seconds before quickly disappearing out of view once again.  An adult leader then questioned the team as to what had just happened and to describe their observations.  The scouts learned that they need to be observant and aware of their situation (situational awareness?) as well as that as a team their observations were more complete than any individual's observations.

Later in the afternoon as the teams had completed all the activity stations. they were called to assemble on the school play field.  There was a team of adult leaders, male and female, that played conga drums, tambourines, and finger cymbals along with singing.  I was extremely impressed with their professionalism and performances.  They sort of reminded me of tent revival evangelists and new age motivational speakers. The got the scouts involved in sing alongs and group body movements.  More importantly and impressive was how much fun and enthusiasm the scouts were exhibiting.  They were fully engaged with the scout leaders.  I asked Duang about the leaders.  It appeared to me that they were not your run of the mill volunteer parents.  She told me that the scout leaders had been trained and certified by the government.

Could have been "Simon Says" - Isaan Style

After the scouts had completed their group exercises with the adult leaders. the woman leader announced where the boy's and girl's bathroom areas were.  I thought that was a little odd since the scouts had been there since the morning and surely must have gone to the bathroom at least once so far in the day.  She also warned the girls not to go to the boys bathroom or they might grab them and "Boom Boom" them.  I know that there is now sex education in elementary schools in the USA but I doubt it is so blunt.

By this time I had to go to the bathroom, I knew that the teacher's bathrooms were located between the female and male student's bathrooms, - about 75 to 100 feet away.  Upon getting to the bathrooms everything made more sense to me.  Off to the right was the boy's bathrooms.  An outside shower had been set up next to the outhouses.  Poles had been placed in the ground with a 4 foot high tarps wrapped around them.  Inside boys were showering in the open air with their heads and shoulders exposed to view.  I suspect the same was true for the girls to my left but I did not look - no real need to know.

In addition to showering, the scouts also were responsible to launder their clothing from the day's activities.  The scouts were getting a good dose of personal responsibility.

Adults had prepared food and cooked foods but it was for the adults to eat.  The scouts had to prepare and cook their own meal.  Soon there were at least 7 small campfires burning upon which pots of ... rice were being cooked.

After going into town for our dinner, Duang and I returned to the jamboree for the evening program.  This time in addition to being another glass of whiskey and soda, a garland of banana blossoms was placed around my neck in thanks for our donation to the scouts.  We had returned with our grandson and five other small children from Tahsang Village.  They wanted to see the fire and show.  The children were very well behaved and we enjoyed their company until their relatives arrived later at night to take them home.

There was a very involved ceremony between the scouts and the local government dignitaries for lighting of the bonfire.  It turned out that the fluorescent fixtures were actually black-lights that created a dazzling effect on the body paint of the "Indians".  Once the bonfire had been set ablaze, the government officials and I had to join the Indians in dancing around the fire.  We did three revolutions around the fire.  I was able to show the scouts some dance moves from the late 1960s to their great amusement.

Each school then performed a skit.  After around the 4th skit of not having any idea of what was going on, I heard a khene behind me.  I saw a man sitting off to the side of one of the encampments, so I headed out to check it out.  By the time I arrived he had joined 4 other men who had been busy eating and definitely drinking.  Once again I had to decline the gracious offer of whiskey.  The men were having a great time. One man played the harmonic rhythmic music typical of Mahlam Lao and Mahlam Isaan music.  One man was playing percussion on the foam ice chest while a third man kept time by banging a metal spoon on an empty soda water bottle.  The fourth man sang songs.  The fifth man got up and had me get up to join him in a dance.  I know how and enjoy dancing Lao so once again I surprised the people.

This is how traditional Lao music started - small groups of villagers huddled around fires and playing music for their own entertainment.  For me it was special event to be able to witness and participate in.such a tradition.

A Morning In Isaan

Rice Drying Out In The Morning Sun

 Monday morning Duang asked me to take her back out to her home village for the second day in a row.  She is working with her cousin to make new slip covers for our patio furniture and the task is taking longer than she expected.  I suspected that she knew that I would be less than enthusiastic to make the trip because she told me to bring my camera because we could visit our grandson at his school in Kumphawapi.  Her strategy was very effective - we left early in the morning, I carried my cameras and wore a smile on my face.



Pre-Schoolers (3 and 4 year olds)  Line Up for Start of the Morning Classes

We arrived at Peelawat's school just in time for the start of the day at 8:30 A.M.  The school is a large public school in Kumphawapi.  There are 1,400 students ranging in age from 3 (pre-school) to 15 (ninth grade).  Since it was a clear day, all students congregated and eventually assembled in the central courtyard.

The central courtyard was a concrete paved area dotted with trees, concrete benches, with several sections that had flowers and ornamental plants.  Portions of the paved area were set up with posts where badminton, volleyball, and takraw could be played.  There were also several stalls where students could buy food, drinks, and ice cream.  Our grandson, Peelawat, always asks for 5 Baht ($0.15 USD) to take to school to buy food.  The school provides milk free of charge to the pre-schoolers.

The school has a band comprised of bass drum, snare drums, xylophones, along with mouth organs (small plastic keyboards powered by blowing air into them through a plastic tube).  At the appointed time the band marched into place and there was a flag raising ceremony.  All the students sang the Thai National Anthem.  Afterwards there was a Buddhist prayer.  Thailand is 97% Buddhist and Buddhism is actually the state religion.  However the country is tolerant of other religions.  I have visited mosques in Bangkok, and attended Christian ceremonies here in Isaan.  I have also seen Mormon Missionaries here in Udonthani.

Pre-School Students and Classroom, Kumphawapi - No Furniture to Get Hurt On

Pre-Schooler's Bookbags

At the conclusion of the prayer the little children walked off to class with their teachers.  The older children seated on the concrete by individual classes, did some warm up type exercises for arms, hands, fingers and shoulders.  The school Principal; then addressed the student body.  He started slowly and gently about having the older students look out for and after the young students. he then built up to saying that too many students were not brushing their teeth and not washing their hands after lunch.  he built up to a crescendo about four "Naughty" boys had to go see him after the assembly along with their teachers as well as parents - apparently. according to Duang, the boys had been caught with video games at school.  The Principal was definitely not happy.

On our way back to the truck, I saw one of the teachers inspecting his students one by one.  Most students passed inspection and were given a nod as they passed.  Some students were subjected to a closer inspection, some passed and some others were told  something and received a swat across their backside.  Each teacher carried a one meter long and about 12mm diameter bamboo rod - something like the pointers that some teachers used for the blackboard when I went to school.  However here in Isaan the "pointer" was more versatile.  For the pre-schoolers it was used to help position the students where they needed to be.  For the older students it was used to strike them when they misbehaved or to humiliate them for infractions.  Yes, there is still striking of students, corporal punishment, in schools - at least here in Isaan.  The striking that I saw would no way near come close to causing injury or even pain but was humiliating for sure.  Personally I find that a little humiliation is a small price, especially a cost that be easily avoided, to learn that there are consequences to our actions or lack of action.

We stopped by Peelawat's classroom to see what it was like.  It was very clean and well organized.  It did not have any furniture for the students.  The students sat on the floor to learn their lessons.  This is just like most of their their homes - no tables, chairs of desks.  Outside of the classroom there was a rack where all the students had placed their shoes before entering the classroom.  On one wall of the classroom student's book bags were neatly hung.  The bags are used to transport their homework assignments to and from school.  Homework?  Yes, even at 3 years old, students have homework.

We spoke with Peelawat's teacher to determine how he is doing in class.  We knew that he was a good boy and behaved well.  However he is also very shy so there was some concern that he might not be learning as much as he could by not fully participating.  His teacher assured us that he was doing fine.  She informed this as she was multi-tasking.  Three and four year olds at the pre-school are toilet trained but for some boys, zippers and buttons remain a challenge.  A little boy had gone to the bathroom but was returning to the classroom with his shorts unzipped, unbuttoned and on the verge of falling to his knees.  With some help, actually she did it all, he was squared away at the classroom doorway and happily rejoined his classmates.

I Can Get By  - With A Little Help from My Teacher

From the school we drove out to Tahsang Village.  A relative wanted me to take a photograph of her second grand-daughter.  I had taken a photograph of her first grand-daughter, Kwan, and given her an 8 x 10 print, so she wanted one of her other grandchild.  No problem - I don't mind keeping my models happy.

The relatives, who live across the street, more aptly "wide sidewalk" from the "Inside" Wat were busy.  I pulled in to the Wat to park and was greeted by smiling, laughing, and exuberant relatives.  Were they happy to see their falang relative?  Perhaps.  Were they happy because although it was 10:00 A.M. they had been drinking "Lao Lao" (whiskey - a sort of moonshine)?  More likely!

Rice Drying In the Morning Sun at the "Inside" Wat, Tahsang Village

The men and some of the women were busy with the rice harvest. They had spread the ubiquitous blue netting on the ground at the Wat across the street to dry in the sun.  Much of the rice had already been collected and bagged prior to our arrival.  The men were loading the filled bags on to a wagon that would be pulled by a lowt thai lek across the street to their home.

Gentleman, Start Your Engine!

The guys started to tease me about taking photographs and not helping them to load up the wagon with the 50 kg bags.  I told them that I was a foreigner and that I could not work; the police would take me to jail.  As a condition of my Visa to stay in Thailand, I am not allowed to work in Thailand. Although true, everyone in the family also knows that it is my favorite excuse for not performing manual labor under the hot glaring sun.  the men were all in a great mood and kept up teasing until I finally gave in.  Just prior to giving in I saw a partially filled bag amongst the stack.  It was about 10 kg.  I went over and picked it up with one hand in such a fashion as to convey "So what is the big deal about loading up the wagon?"   The guys immediately caught on and pointed out that I needed to do a full bag.  I obliged and hoisted a 50kg bag on to my shoulder, walked over to the wagon, and placed it on top of the stack.  After overcoming the initial shock that I did, or perhaps that I could do it, the men all decided that it was time to go across the street for another drink - including me.  Since I was driving and you can not count on other people to follow the driving laws let alone staying out of your way when you may be driving impaired, I declined the Lao Lao and settled for a glass of Pepsi.

Filling the Family Granary

We crossed the street followed shortly by the filled wagon of rice sacks.  As happens in every family, there was one man who was not fully, if at all, to the physical labor.  Everyone was r
teasing him about it.  Strangely enough, when I started taking photographs of the other men working, he decided to help.  Well in all the activity that was going on, I did not get a shot of the one bag that he off loaded.  I told everyone that my camera was not fast enough to catch him working and that I needed my movie camera which was at home. Duang translated and every one roared with laughter.  I guess that it was a pretty good joke because I was offered whiskey once again which I declined.  The man subject to all our joking was sitting down and complaining ( I suspect jokingly) about hurting his shoulder.  I asked where and he pointed it out.  I drew closer to him and blew on it three times like I do when our grandson shows me his injuries.  This is similar to what some Monks do in a healing ritual.  I also gave him a little massage and told him that he was OK now to go back to work.  There was more laughter, and offers to drink whiskey.  He did do another bag and I did get his photograph.

With His Pakama Wrapped Around His Waist, A Villager Hauls A Sack of Rice

The sacks were carried from the wagon to the family granary - an elevated composite structure of wood and corrugated metal.  In the countryside of Isaan, you will see these structures at almost every Lao Loum home.  The year long supply of rice for the family and the seeds for next year's rice crop are stored in them.  I noticed some holes in this one and asked if they were going to fatten up some rats for Duang's mother to cook.  Last week she cooked a rat and offered Duang to eat some.  Duang refused.  I double checked to ensure that I understood correctly.  According to Duang people do not eat "small rats" (I am assuming she means mice) but they eat "big rat like chicken, big rat eat sugar cane" which sounds like your typical rats running around rice paddies, cane fields, and granaries.  Every one had another good laugh.

Another Sack, All In A Morning's Work

Milling Rice In the Morning At Tahsang Village

The morning was getting on but I wanted to show Duang the miller that I had visited earlier in the morning.  While Duang was paying her respects to her mother an father, I had wandered around the village to see what was going on.  It was so quiet because all the children 3 years and older were off at school, that I could hear the sound of some  machines.  I had a good idea what it was and followed the sounds to the backyard of the villager who mills rice.  This will be the subject of an upcoming blog, "Miller Time ...  In Isaan".  I had photographed a couple of years ago and earlier in the morning.  I had left to get more of my gear but had been delayed getting back to him because of the family next to the Wat.  The miller had finished his work, but I got to take more shots of the equipment while Duang talked to him - there is always something to talk about with just about anyone or everyone here in Isaan.

Scavenging For Scrap Metal

Duang was concerned about me getting too tired from the past two days of photography in the hot weather and admonished me to not stop on the way home.  I told her that I would listen - "a little bit".
Although I did not plan on stopping along the way, circumstances did not cooperate.  Once again opportunity presented itself to my curiosity.

Just outside of Kumphawapi is a sugar refinery.  Across the road from the refinery is a large vacant piece of land where the solid waste from the sugar refining process is dumped.  The waste is a very black sandy type organic soil that farmers use to fertilize their fields.  The waste is very smelly - an almost sickening sweet pungent odor; so smelly that Duang and I refer to it as "kee oi" (sugar shit).  Several times as we have passed the area, there have been many people going over the piles of waste.  I asked Duang why as well what they were doing.  She told me that they were looking for mushrooms.  Well this time there must have been 4 times the number of people that I have ever seen on the piles.  The sugar harvest is just barely getting started so the piles were not all that big.  By the end of the season the pile will be about 8 meters high and at least 200 meters by 200 meters.

I pulled over to the side of the dirt road perimeter of the area and parked amongst the somlaws, motorbikes, and pick up trucks.  I quickly determined that the people were not looking for mushrooms but were picking scrap metal out of the piles.  The piles this day were not just sugar refining waste but included concrete debris, industrial debris, rubber machine belts, bamboo, plastic sheeting and garbage - s if an industrial plant was being demolished and dumped on the field.  Despite the sugar shit odor there was also the smells of cow dung and palaa (at least 6 month old fermented fish) - not all that pleasant an environment to photograph in but it was new and different to me.  The people were friendly and I asked if they had found any gold and communicated to them with pantomime and my limited vocabulary that I wanted to find some gold.  We all shared a laugh, most likely at my expense, but it is such a small price to be able to photograph a part of other people's lives.

In the USA, there are special days when people are encouraged to bring their children to work.  I always smile at that concept for here in Southeast Asia everyday is bring your child to work day if not have your child work with you.  Small children are brought out to the cane fields, rice paddies, and on this morning out to the dump.  There was one little boy who was neither amused or pleased with my presence.  He was around a year and one-half.  He at first cried when he saw me but after being consoled by his mother just kept a weary stare at me for the entire time that i was there.  Luckily I had a longer lens on one of my cameras so as they say here it was "Good for me, good for him".  I was able to get my photographs without getting closer to him.

A Nice Drink of Water In the Morning

As Their Son Keeps His Eyes On Me. A Family Looks For Scrap Metal

It had been quite an interesting morning here in Isaan and as I drove back to our home listening to the ethnic Lao music I could not help but reflect upon what I had seen as well as experienced.  For Americans, tomorrow is Thanksgiving a day when people gather to give thanks for their blessings.  It has always been one of my favorite holidays, not necessarily for all the wonderful food and drink, but the realization of the things that matter in your life.  Although we do not celebrate it in our home here in Isaan, I am thankful on Thanksgiving and every other day for the blessings that I have received past, present, and anticipated in the future.  One of the blessings being "A Morning In Isaan" and another - still being excited by as well as interested in the life around me.

Reunion

My 1967 Senior Class Photo

This year my graduating class of 1967 at Robert E. Fitch Senior High will be having its 45th Reunion.

The opportunity of attending this reunion has presented me with a dilemma.  Why should I make an effort to attend an event with people who I have not seen or communicated with in 45 years?  Obviously these are people that have meant very little to me and I have meant very little to them over the years for if we had, we would have maintained some contact.  On the other hand, the reunion does present an opportunity, perhaps the last opportunity for many, to express my appreciation and regards to people who shared events and experiences from a critical time period of my life.  Perhaps more importantly a reunion provides the opportunity to pay some respects to fellow classmates who are no longer alive.

Perhaps many of us did not turn out the way that we were supposed to or were expected to.  Life has a habit of presenting opportunities and challenges to the path that we start upon or the path that we prefer to travel on our life journey.  However it is our decisions and manner in which we cope with these opportunities as well as challenges that makes each life so interesting and rich.  At the events like this, we learn that we are not alone ... alone in the suffering, joys, triumphs, and disappointments of life.  We are not alone in having shared many of the world events that have shaped history over the past 45 years.

Attending a reunion is not a matter of seeking vindication for the choices that we have made or giving vindication to others for theirs. Rather it is an opportunity to share those choices and to perhaps better understand why we are who we are today and to understand better where we came from.

I have addressed the fear of perhaps being on my death bed and wondering back upon my life and questioning "What would my life had been like, if back ... I had ..."  I did not want to be in that situation, so I made a decision to take that branch off to the side of the road and discover what lay down that road.  I do not regret having done that for my life is richer and more complete.

So after discussing it with Duang, I agreed that we will attend the reunion.  I don't want to regret at some point not having attended.  It will be an opportunity to thank some people and express appreciation to some people for the influence that they had on me so long ago.  Attending the reunion will also be an experience for Duang to learn a little more about American culture, my past, and to enjoy a night out.

Duang and I have traveled many miles to encounter and interact with peoples of very different cultures.  We have enjoyed the opportunity to learn and experience what other people are like.  We have never been disappointed.  Having done that and our intention is to continue doing that, it is only logical that we would cross the river to spend some time with some people that I went to school with.

I will return to Groton from Thailand on Thursday night, so after 30 hours of travel and 13 hours of time change, it should be even that more interesting for me on Saturday night.

It is far better, in my mind, to be curious than to be sorry.  One thing that I am certain of, there will be no 90th Reunion.

URI LXA Reunion

Giving Credit and A Tribute to My Own Ones


Yesterday, Duang and I enjoyed a very special day; a day spent with some of my fraternity brothers, their wives, and some of our special friends from our days at the University of Rhode Island.  I had not seen many of the people since 1971.  Through the technology of the Internet I have reestablished contact with some of them through FaceBook but such interactions are rather restrictive as well as limited.

It was through FaceBook that I discovered that many of my fraternity brothers were reuniting for the weekend.  Yesterday I received the details and drove over to Rhode Island to become reacquainted with people with whom I share a common experience.

This morning as I reflect upon the friendship of yesterday and the bonds established 44 years ago, I am reminded of similar feelings from a previous visit back to America a couple years ago.  Just as then ...
I would like to share one of my favorite (I have many) songs that seems to summarize my emotions and thoughts so well regarding this reunion. Although I am not Irish, the words and thoughts of this song are meaningful and applicable to me and I believe to everyone. I found the lyrics on tp://www.lyrics.astraweb.com/.

Artist: Van Morrison

Album: Irish Heartbeat

Title: Irish Heartbeat

"Oh won't you stay


Stay a while with your own ones


Don't ever stray


Stray so far from your own ones


'cause the world is so cold


Dont care nothing for your soul


That you share with your own ones



Don't rush away


Rush away from your own ones


Just one more day


One more day with your own ones


'cause the world is so cold


Don't care nothing bout your soul


That you share with your own ones



There's a stranger


And he's standing at your door


Might be your best friend, might be your brother


You may never know



I'm going back


Going back to my own ones


Come back to talk


Talk a while with my own ones


'cause the world is so cold


Don't care nothing 'bout your soul


You share with your own ones




Oh won't you stay


One more day with your own ones


Don't rush away


Rush away from your own ones


This old world is so cold,


Don't care nothing for your soul


You share with your own ones"


I came back this time to be with my own ones - some of my friends from a distant past and a far away land of my youth.  More importantly, Duang was able to meet some of the people that influenced me and we had shared our youth together.

I was surprised and very pleased with the caring and camaraderie that I shared with some of my old friends yesterday. Some friends, I had last seen and spoke with during my last year of college back in Rhode Island in 1971.

Despite the lengthy physical separation, the bonds of our shared experiences during the four years at the university survived the years and tribulations of our individual lives. Although we physically changed a great deal, spiritually it was as if we were reunited after only a short semester break. Some people say or perhaps they wrote that making friends in New England is very difficult but that when you do make a friend, you have a friend for life.  Yesterday was truly a testimony to that fact.
I am not so sure that it true that New Englanders are not friendly - it just might be that they are suspicious!  However I know it to be true that a New England friend is a friend for life. There is no need to call, write, or visit often. The friendship is kept and maintained in the heart as well as in the soul.

Life is surprising and can not always be explained. Often it is best to accept and enjoy its richness for what it is. Yesterday was such a time for all of us - a time to celebrate and share our individual lives and the common experience of living.


"Oh won't you stay


One more day with your own ones


Don't rush away


Rush away from your own ones ..."

Duang and I stayed late into the evening as if trying to make the day last even longer, or to bask in the warmth of the day's camaraderie a while longer.  But duties and responsibilities remain so we had to leave.

However, it is through this blog and the Internet that I hope to continue to talk to and to be with my own ones.

I leave proud and happy to have seen and talked with my own ones once again.  Although the world in America has grown old and is experiencing serious economic hardships, their friendship as well as camaraderie survives and prevails. I am a richer person for the friendship, affection, and love of my own ones. I give them credit and I pay them tribute - "Thank You".

I am sure that you too share the wealth of your "own ones".  It is one of the treasures of life.

Tahsang Village School - Typical Isaan Elementary School

Tahsang Village Elementary School

Last week as part of our activity for applying for an Immigrant Visa for Duang, we went to Amphur Kumphawapi, sort of like a county office in the USA, to obtain a copy of Duang's first marriage certificate.  Although it was not specifically required to be submitted with our next submittal, the application packet stated that we should submit marriage certificates of previous marriages - if available.  I have had enough dealings with bureaucrats to realize that it is best to over submit documents than to hold back simply because it was suggested and not "required".

We brought Peelawat, our 18 month old grandson, to keep us or more accurately keep me company. The parking lot of the Amphur offices is a hot bed of monkey activity.  The monkeys live across the street in the large trees of the small park.  They cross the city street to mooch food from the people at the Amphur Offices.  Monkeys of all sizes, and ages can readily be seen sitting on top of parked cars and trucks, underneath the vehicles, and in general running all around the parking lot.  Many people feed the monkeys while awaiting their companions to complete their business in the offices.

Duang went in to see about getting a copy of her old marriage certificate while Peelawat and I went to observe the monkeys.  In Thai monkey is "Ling".  "Ling" is one of the few words that Peelawat speaks.  I had taken him to see the monkeys about two months ago.  When he went by the area a week later with his parents he pointed at the area and kept saying "Ling, Ling!"  They didn't understand what he was talking about until Duang explained that he and I had watched the monkeys for a half hour previously.  Peelawat also scratches his face with a huge grin, when you ask him about Ling Ling - just as the monkeys do.

On our last visit to the monkeys, Peelawat was very cautious.  I was too especially after I saw one monkey giving me the eye as I placed Peelawat's bottle of milk in my pants pocket.  I would have preferred to put in a shirt pocket but my shirts do not have pockets.  I am convinced that it would be better to hav e monkey run up to and start grabbing at your chest than at your pants pockets.  Since our last visit, Peelawat has taken on the job of chasing chickens and dogs out of his great-grandmother's village market.  He chases away cats that are often found at the Buddhist Wats (temples).  He does a good job until the animals stop, look at him, and then start to walk towards him.  He stops cold in his tracks, whips around and runs back to an adult.  I was not sure how he would react to the monkeys.

As we passed the shrine to a Royal Prince outside of the building, Peelawat stopped and gave a wai to the statue that was adorned with floral offerings.  He also gives this sign of respect on his own to Monks when he encounters him.  The family, like many Lao Loum families, teach their children at a very early age about respect, manners, and religion.  I pointed out some monkeys to Peelawat and he stopped.  He watched them, looked at me and as he pointed at them said "Ling Ling".  We saw some monkeys closer - sitting on top of some one's truck.  We walked closer with Peelawat holding my hand.  Peelawat let go of my hand and broke into a lively dance - both arms waving in the air to some internal rhythm known only to him, his feet were going up and down, he was "singing" something in his own language and he had a look of extreme joy on his face.  He was very happy to see the monkeys. We watched these monkeys until we noticed a man feeding some monkeys.  We got very close and watched for a long time.  The man gave Peelawat the bag of snacks, a sort of pretzel stick treat without the salt, so that Peelawat could feed the monkeys.  As I held Peelawat so that he could reach the top of the truck cab, he fed the monkeys enjoying every moment.

Duang was unable to get a copy of her old marriage certificate because a few years ago the Amphor office had burned down and many records were destroyed.  I guess that would explain the new cement block building being constructed next door.  No problem - my conscience is clear.  The certificate is not available so it will not be submitted.  Peelawat protested at leaving his furry friends behind but we had another treat planned for him.  We were going to the village school to get a certificate of Duang's attendance.

The elementary school that Duang attended for four years and the school that is still used for six grade levels is located on the main road just outside of Tahsang Village.  When Duang went to school, students attended when they became seven years old.  Today the children start when they are three years old.  The school is comprised of several buildings.  There is the main classroom building - an elevated 8 room wood structure.  There is an assembly hall about 10 meters by 10 meters square with a tile floor at grade.  There is a library building similar to the assembly hall but smaller.  There is a kitchen building.  There is a bathroom building.  A large playing field separates the school building from the road.  The school is typical of the schools scattered amongst the villages throughout Isaan.

Forty seven of Tahsang Village's finest attend the school.  They are instructed by 4 teachers (a couple of teachers instruct in more than one class at a time), a Principal, a Deputy Principal and acting Nurse, and Administrative person.

Typical Isaan School Classroom - Fit For Purpose

There are some differences in this typical Isaan school than schools in the USA.  First of all outside of the building there is a Buddhist shrine near the flagpole.  In the classrooms there is a religious Buddhist picture alongside a photograph of the King and a picture of the Thai flag. The Buddhist religion is an integral component of Thai daily living, Thai government, and Thai education.  Although 97% Buddhist and with Buddhism being the official state religion, Thailand is tolerant of other faiths.  I have seen and visited Catholic, and Protestant churches along with Hindu temples.  I have seen many Mosques and I have seen Mormon missionaries out and about on their bicycles.

School Corridor On A Rainy Day

Besides the religion aspects, there are other big differences between Isaan schools and American schools.  They are constructed out of wood rather than steel, brick and concrete.  The schools here do not have air conditioning which makes sense because the schools do not have glass in their windows or ceiling insulation or wall insulation.  The school windows do not have screens either.  There are a couple small fans in the class room to move the air around - just as in the student's homes.  The floors of the school are broad wood planking - I suspect teak wood.  The floors are smooth from many years of many students walking over them.

There is a TV mounted in a sturdy steel frame on the classroom wall so that media can be integrated into the teaching program.  There was also an old desktop computer on the teacher's desk of the classrooms.

The classrooms are illuminated by a couple of bare florescent tube lights - no reflectors or diffuser grids - just a bare tube - like in the student's home.  The school roof is corrugated steel with no sound damping application which must make for difficult hearing during downpours.  The classroom furniture is heavy wood and utilitarian.  I suspect that some of the chairs and desks that Duang used 39 years ago are still being used.  As in so many aspects of Lao Loum culture here in Isaan, the schools fully utilize what is available and take care of what they have.  There is a focus on items being "fit for purpose" rather than "stylish" or "modern".

There was no security guards at the Tahsang Village school or metal detectors.  Upon arrival, Duang, Peelawat, and I walked up the steep and narrow (for a foreigner) wood stairs to the outside corridor running the length of the building.  Two little dogs were resting outside of a couple of the classrooms.  I thought of either a nursery rhyme or first reader story about some little girl or boy's pet dog following them to school.  I was wrong - the dogs belong to the teachers.  Hell, it still makes a sweet story.  The dogs were well behaved and quiet.  The students seemed to enjoy their presence as the students wandered outside of the classroom to go to the toilet, to go to eat, or whatever reasons they had to be outside of their classroom.   Who knows it may be a head of its time.  Perhaps America will have "Take Your Pet To Work Day" to go along with "Take Your daughter to Work Day" and Take Your Son to Work Day"  Why is it that no one seems to want a "Take Your Spouse to Work Day"?

Peelawat is well known amongst the children of Tahsang Village.  Besides there being only about 250 people in the village, Peelawat's great grandmother sells ice cream cones out of her market.  The ice cream cones cost 5 baht - $0.15 USD with flavors like corn, mango, lemon, chocolate, chocolate chip and strawberry.  The children drop by for a treat and play with Peelawat, as he rests from his chicken and dog wrangling duties, for awhile on each of their many visits.  Peelawat is popular with the 11 year old boy who smokes cigarettes and was asked to quit school.  He carries his cigarette money in his ears.  He takes the coins out and sets them to spinning around on the tile floor much to Peelawat's delight.  He is very good with Peelawat so I suspect that he is not a "bad" boy but merely a "misunderstood" boy a la "The Fonz" from the old TV program "Happy Days".  But I have been wrong before ...

Classroom Entrance - Tahsang Village School

Word spread quickly that Peelawat was at the school.  As we walked along the corridor while Duang handled business with the Principal, many of "our" friends from the village came out to see us.  Peelawat was very interested in the school and students but he would not enter the classrooms.  A couple of the teachers came out to talk to us.  It was all very relaxed and informal.  Once again the Lao Loom sense of community was manifested.

In a year and one half, Peelawat will start school, so we stopped by the 3 year old students classroom to check it out.  They did not have furniture in their room - I suspect that besides being so difficult to keep them seated at a desk and chair, the furniture is too heavy for them to manage on their own.  The students were playing a game - a competition.  It was boys versus girls in a combination of relay race and pass the stuffed animal.  The two teams were seated next to each other in two long lines.  The race started with the first team member passing a stuffed animal over their head to the person behind them and so on.  The last person took the animal to the front of the line, sat down and started the process all over.  The winning team was the first team to get their starting player back at the head of the line.  With the teams comprised of entirely 3 and 4 year olds there was a great deal of confusion, laughing, giggling, and smiling with Peelawat cheering every one along.  I don't know who actually won and no one seemed to care.  They were having a great time.  I didn't spoil it by telling them that they were learning about cooperation, collaboration, competition and developing motor skills.

Peelawat and Gay At School - and you thought that "The Boy Named Sue" was a burden!!

Peelawat and I went back to the Principal's Office and discovered that they had retrieved Duang's record of attendance and transcript.  In one of the many ledgers in cabinets along the office wall they found Duang's records - handwritten in beautiful penmanship.  It appeared that we had arrived just in time with our request.  The ledger was well on its way to decay from non-archival storage as well as high acid content paper.  37 years had taken its toll on this ledger.  The Administration person was in the process of inputting the hand written information from the ledgers into a lap top computer.  It never ceases to amaze me how much hand written paper ledgers are used today here in Isaan.  Oh yeah and keeping them in non air conditioned as well as high humidity wood buildings.  We socialized awhile with the school officials and were invited back for this week's (Wednesday's Mothers Day Celebration)

Just like I have written about the differences in medical care and more importantly medical care costs here in Isaan as opposed to America, I have the same conclusion regarding public education here in Isaan.  A great deal of the costs of public education in America is involved in the physical facilities as well as maintenance of those facilities.  These costs of monuments, vestiges, and trappings of the current education system to greater glory, honor, prestige and power of politicians and local school boards do not necessarily pay dividends in the quality of the student's education.  Here in Isaan the facilities no way compare to those in the USA however the students seem to get the education that they need for this society.

Due to economic or surviving considerations, she needed to work in the fields to support the family, my wife only was able or rather allowed to attend four years of school.  However, she can read and write Thai.  She has excellent addition and subtraction skills.  So it was and even today, for many village children, so it is today

Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival - Part 2

Having learned a lesson the previous day, we immediately took a Tuk-Tuk when we left our hotel at 7:30 A.M. to got to the Ubon Ratchathani Candle festival sites.

Our goal for the morning was to look at the large floats up close prior to the start of the morning procession which was scheduled to commence at 8:30 A.M.  We, or rather Duang, explained to the Tik-Tuk driver what we wanted to do.  He brought us to the area near Wat Sriubonrattanaram where the side streets were filled with the wax work floats awaiting the start of the morning's procession.

We were not disappointed at all with the access to closely inspect the wax sculptures.  There were no barriers or security to prevent you from getting as close as you wanted to each of the floats.  The biggest difficulty was attempting to take a meaningful photograph of the float without some one in the picture.  Thais like to be photographed and especially love to have their picture taken in front of something unique such as a large wax float as they give the "V" gesture or pose with Momma and Grand Momma.  I patiently waited for the opportunities to take my shots as the smell of the sculptures heating up in the morning sun transported me back in space and time to my young days back in Groton, Connecticut, to the days of melted Crayola crayons on hot summer afternoons.  Duang even more patiently waited for me to take my shots before moving on to the next attraction.

In response to posting some photos on my Facebook account, a friend asked about the wax sculptures.  The wax sculptures are not solid wax.  The sculptures and panoramas would be way to heavy and expensive if they were solid beeswax.  The heads are hollow.  The large figures are wax placed upon either Styrofoam substrates or on  chicken wire/plaster frames.  Wax is applied to the substrate and the details carved into the wax layer(s).  It is our intention to visit the area once again next year but earlier in July to witness the sculptures and panoramas being created.

In addition to the staging of the floats for the upcoming procession, the side streets were also filling up with performers who were also going to participate in the morning procession.  While the streets were filling with performers and people like us wandering around to get close up views, the sidewalks were filled with a combination of static stalls and wandering vendors selling soft drinks, water, food, balloons, and small toys.  Because of the religious context of the day, the start of Buddhist Lent, there were no sales of beer or the local version of moonshine whiskey along the procession route.  Unlike most events that we attend here in Isaan we did not see anyone consuming alcohol or any one under the influence of alcohol.  Also unlike so many of the events that we attend here in Isaan, we did not witness any fights.  I suspect (tongue in cheek along with a wink of an eye) that the lack of alcohol and the absence of fist fights are related. It made for a very enjoyable festival and from what I observed it didn't seem to impair anyone from enjoying the events.

The entrepreneurship of the Lao Loum people never seems to cease to amaze me.  There were all kinds of places - stalls, booths, or just umbrellas over an ice chest where you could buy water, soda, or juices.  It appeared to me that any one who had a cooler and the seed money to buy drinks and ice could set up to make some money.  I did not see any of the business licenses, health permits, tax ID numbers, or other bureaucratic requirements that would be required to do the same back in the USA.  I was very surprised to see that the prices for the beverages were not inflated because of the festival.  The cost of a drink was the same as the everyday price for the same drink at the 7-11 during the remainder of the year.  I could not help but reflect upon the outrageous cost of a soda or other soft drink at an American sports or music concert venue.

Intersections were popular locations for food vendors.  Food was grilled over charcoal fires contained in barbecues constructed out or steel barrels split in two and set up horizontally on metal legs.  Other foods were boiled or fried over small charcoal fires contained in two gallon sized refractory lined metal cans.  The odors of the fires and various foods that were being cooked added to the overall ambiance of the event.  Some large corporations were passing out free bottles of ice water and cold fruit juices.  With this being Thailand, no one was keeping track of how many a person was given.  Since it was getting later in the morning and despite the heavy clouded sky, it was hot and humid, I was perspiring heavily.  Fortunately the free drink people took good care of me and Duang ensured that I had plenty of soda to drink - soda in a plastic bag filled with ice along with a  straw ($0.35 USD each).  Often when you buy a soft drink from a vendor here in Isaan, the vendor will pour the drink into a small plastic bag filled with crushed ice along with a straw thus retaining the original container or more importantly being able to receive the fee for recycling the container for themselves.

Just as the previous night's procession, there were many dance groups.  The dance groups were from local and regional elementary and high schools along with universities.  They perform traditional dances to traditional music played by musicians riding along with them in a truck or to recorded music played (blared?) over large speakers mounted on a vehicle as part of their entourage.  The music is high energy and it is difficult to refrain from dancing to it.  Mahlam Lao music is played throughout Isaan all the time.  I have seen and heard it blasting from portable radios as people worked in the fields planting sugar cane and harvesting rice.  The previous night I was unable to get close up photographs of the beautiful dancers so one of my objectives for the day was to get some close up photos of the performers.  I was not disappointed with the opportunities that presented themselves throughout the day and evening.  I seriously believe that students are taught modeling and posing as part of their curriculum - they all seem to be so photogenic.

After the morning procession, we retired to the Wat.  According to the schedule of events there was to be "give King candle to Monk" and "give King loin cloth" from 11:00 A.M. to 12:00 P.M.  at the Wat.  It seemed like it would be interesting if for no other reason to see what the event actually was.  We arrived at the Wat and it was curiously not crowded whats so ever.  A Monk arrived and blessed us along with the 5 other people who were there.  We waited a while - being entertained by a young toddler's antics while her mother was worshiping.  After a while a group of people arrived, obviously not involved in any kind of ceremony but a falang, his girl friend, and extended family.  As so often happens here in Isaan, Duang and the girl friend got involved in an extensive conversation - leaving the falang from Sweden and I to have our own extended conversation.  We never saw any "give King loin cloth" or "give King candle to Monk" but spent an enjoyable afternoon and received a blessing - not bad.

During the two days of the Festival I was often asked by people to answer some questions.  The questions were related to homework assignments for students learning English.  Because the students were often shy, the contact was typically made by either their teacher or their mother.  This allowed us to meet many people and learn more about the region as well as the festival.  It helped to pass the time quickly.

We spent some time talking to an older woman at a booth sponsored by a knife company.  The booth was actually a school where the company taught people to do fancy culinary carving using their products.  She was working on carving a lotus flower out of a piece of pumpkin.  The instructor had given her one of his flowers as a model.  His flower was absolutely gorgeous.  The were also samples of carved carrots and leaves carved from pumpkin.  Duang and I watched the woman, a boy who came along, and ate some lunch in the relative cool of the covered booth.  After awhile the woman finished her flower and did a leaf.  I praised her leaf and jokingly suggested that she specialize in carving leaves.  At this point, I tried my hand at carving a leaf much to every one's amusement.  There always seems to be something to do to either amuse yourself or others here in Isaan.

5:00 P.M. quickly rolled around and it was time to prepare for the evening procession but that is for another blog entry ...