A Special Ok Phansa in Tahsang Village

We were unable to witness the wax castle procession in Sakon Nakhon this year because of our commitment to attend Ok Phansa celebration in my wife's home village.  Ok Phansa occurs on the day following the full moon in the 11th lunar month (October) of the year.  It signifies the end of Buddhist Lent which is also referred to as the end of the Buddhist Retreat.

In Thailand the Buddhist Retreat is known as Vassa.  Buddhist Lent starts the first day of the waning moon in the eighth lunar month (July).  Buddhist Retreat lasts thre lunar months.  During the period, Monks are supposed to remain at their home Wats or monasteries.  The practise predates Buddhism when religious holy men in India would not travel during the rainy season would not travel about in order to prevent damage to crops growing in the fields, reduce the likelihood that they could kill insects that they were unable to see in the mud or water, and also to reduce the likelihood that they could injure themselves.

For the Theravada Buddhists of Thailand, there is also a connection between the practise of the Retreat and the life of Buddha.  There is a legend, a belief for others, that Buddha retreated to heaven to give a sermon to his mother who had died seven days after his birth.  He stayed in heaven for three months.  When Buddha returned to Earth, he was welcomed back with great enthusiasm and joy.  The welcome back celebration was so joyous that the gods and goddesses joined in.

With this background I can better understand why Ok Phansa is such a joyous celebration here in Isaan.  This year Ok Phansa in Tahsang Village (Baan Tahsang) was an even greater celebration.  For two years the "Outside" Wat's Bot has been being rebuilt.  The "Outside" Wat which is the Wat that Duang's family prefers is located outside of the village on a dirt road in the middle of the sugar cane fields at the edge of the seasonal floodplain.  The "Outside" Wat is home to Dhammayuttika Nikaya minority sect of Theravada Buddhism.  Dhammayuttika Nikaya Monks are more strict than the majority sect, Maha Nikaya. The robes of Dhammayuttika Nikaya Monks are darker - more of a brownish color than the bright yellow-orange of the Maha Nikaya Monks.

The Bot was being constructed as funds were available to pay the general contractor.  Currently the roof is completed with at least 1.2 meters of perimeter walls installed. About 20% of the exterior walls, the portions where the Buddha statue is located and the area where the Monks sit to eat and perform rituals, have been erected.  The walls are a type of cinder block with skim coat of cement on both sides. The floor is rough finished concrete which eventually will be tiled.  Since people place woven reed mats, sahts, on the floor for worshipping the absence of tile is not a problem.

To mark the end of the Buddhist Retreat which coincides with the end of the rainy season, and to help raise funds to complete the Bot, 100 Monks were going to the "Outside" Wat to participate in a special merit making ritual.

During Buddhist Lent many women made extra merit by wearing white clothing when participating in merit making rituals and when praying.  Some of the women also attended overnight women's retreats at the Wats where they recited and studied scriptures.  They also listened to sermons delivered by the Monks.  On the night of Ok Phansa there would be one last retreat for women.  My wife, and her mother were going to participate along with a couple of the other grandmothers that I knew in the village.

The celebration at the Wat was a large community event.  Water and soft drinks were provided to the Monks and other attendees.  Drinks were free.  Underneath canopies that you see throughout Isaan for religious celebrations, weddings, funerals, and Monk ordinations, people were passing out food to the attendees.  Once again the prepared food had been donated and passed out for free.  Some people donated ice cream for the Monks.  Others had donated green coconuts to refresh the Monks.  Other people donated ice tea, and juice cups for the attendees.  It was a very impressive demonstration of generousity and community commitment.

As Duang tended to the distribution of soft drinks and water, I remained in the Bot taking photos of the preparations for the arrival of the Monks.  After a while a felt a little tap on my shoulder.  I turned my head to see my 3-1/2 year old grandson smiling next to me.  Peelawat remained with me for just about the entire day.  That was very fortunate for me.  After the local Monks had eaten, one of them brought a plate of food for Peelawat and I to eat.  Later in the afternoon, one of the visiting Monks brought a small cup of ice cream for us.  A little later another Monk brought us a big bowl of ice cream.  Peelawat took the bowl and gave me the little cup!  After a while Peelawat, placed his head on my feet and went to sleep until Duang came to take him back to the village,

Since we had donated drinking water and soft drinks for the celebration, we arrived at the Wat early so that Duang could help distribute them to people.  There was an air of excitement punctuated by the staccato of innumerable firecrackers thrown by young boys.  Morlam music blared from the PA system which added to the festive atmosphere.

Monks Consulting Upon Arrival At the Bot

Gradually the Monks arrived.  Just before the designated time for the merit making ritual, the Monks entered the Bot.  As a Monk arrived he would greet the other Monks and break off with typically an older Monk.  They seemed to enter into a ritualistic consultation.  It reminded me of the portion of the ordination ritual where the person to be ordained is questioned to ensure that he is a  human and not a Naga (snake) pretending to be a man so that he can be a Monk. I was observing a ritual for sure because I saw a couple of the younger Monks stop, retrieve a book from their cloth bag, and refer to the book as they recommenced their consultation.

There so many Monks that there was no room for other people inside of the Bot.  Along three sides of the Bot were canopies where people sat on sahts to worship or clusters of people under the shade of trees to worship.  Like all events that I have attended here in Isaan, all generations attended and participated in the ritual.

The merit making ritual lasted for about one hour.

After the Monks left, most of the people left for their homes.  Many Tahsang villagers remained behind to clear up and clean up the grounds.  I retreated to a small building on the Wat grounds that is used to prepare food and where sahts are sometimes woven.  Underneath the corrugated metal roof of that open air structure I managed to get a photograph of one of Duang's aunts.  I had attended her husband's funeral ritual almost three years ago.  To me, this aunt epitomizes the hardship, suffering, and dignity of the Lao Loum people.

It had been another interesting day for me in Northeast Thailand and I had witnessed a little more of the Lao Loum culture.

When I was a young school boy I had read a special book, "The Golden Bough: a Study in Magic and Religion" by the Scottish anthropologist Sir James Fraser.  The book contains information on many religious practises and rituals from around the world as well as across the ages.  I was impressed to learn that so many of today's Christian beliefs as well as rituals have roots to cultures far and distant in time as well as space.  As I am immersed in the Lao Loum culture especially its religious heritage of Hindu, Animist, and Buddhism practises, I am experiencing some of what piqued my interest so many years ago in the far away land of Connecticut.  I am fond of stating in regards to current events that nothing happens in a vacuum.  For something that happens today, if you look carefully you will see the foreshadowing, warnings, and the signs of it to come in the past.  So I believe it is with religion.  Whatever today's faith maybe, it's foundation is connected to other faiths in the past.

Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival

Completed Wax Castle at Wat Suwaneen Gindalam, Sakon Nakhon, Thailand

As I have written before, October this year has been a very busy month for us.  One of our planned activities for October was to attend the Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival here in Isaan.

The festival was held from October 26 to October 30 in Sakon Nakhon, an agricultural center of approximately 60,000 people 160 Km east of our home in Udonthani.  The Wax Festival is held to commemorate and celebrate the end of Buddhist Lent also referred to as Buddhist Retreat.

Buddhist Lent commences the day after the full moon of the eighth lunar month (July) and ends 90 days later on the full moon of the eleventh lunar month (October).  I will be writing more about the end of the Buddhist Retreat in my next blog.  For now the important point is that during the period from Khao Phansa to Ok Phansa, the Monks are restricted to their home Wat to focus on meditation and scripture.

We had attended the Ubonratchathani Candle Festival in July 2010.  That festival which commemorated the start of Buddhist Lent included both a day and night procession of large wax sculptures of scenes from the Ramakian.  After viewing and inspecting the sculptures, I wanted to return the next year but at an earlier time to witness how the large sculptures were made.  As often happens in life, events prevented us from returning in either 2011 or 2012.  There is a saying that goes something along the lines of "When one door closes, another door opens".  We returned to Thailand in July of this year, too late to go to Ubonratchathani but, thanks to the Internet I learned of the Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival in October.

Due to a commitment to attend and requests to photograph Ok Phansa celebration in Tahsang Village, we were not able to attend the procession in Sakon Nakhon.  However, we could attend the early days of the festival - specifically to witness the castles being constructed.  I figured that the first day, the 26th, was too early.  After researching and finding a hotel for $21.64 a night in downtown Sakon Nakhon, we decided to drive the 2 hours on Saturday, 27 October, spend the night and return home on Sunday the 28th.  We could have planned on doing it all in one day, but I like to have flexibility built into our travel arrangements.  For $21.64, including taxes, a night, there was not much additional cost to have a possible second day at the festival.

The drive out to Sakon Nakhon was great - Highway 22 all the way.  Not much traffic, very few slow vehicles, very few traffic lights, wide and smooth paved highway, hardly any motorbikes, and no police - such a great way to start a holiday.

Our hotel, The Dusit, was a pleasant surprise.  The staff was great - very friendly and extremely willing to help.  The hotel is located downtown very close to the central market.  The exterior is rather nondescript but I knew that from my research.  Inside the hotel was very clean and the lobby was pretty as well as comfortable. Since I had no idea where the castles were being constructed, or where the long boat races were being held, I decided to hire a car and driver for the day.  We spoke with the staff at the hotel, and shortly a man with a nice car arrived.  We agreed to pay him 2,000 Baht ($65 USD) to take care of us from 11:00 AM until 5:00 PM.  With a car, I was able to bring some equipment such as a light stand, small octagon light modifier, and tripod to use in photographing the castles.

We have been fortunate in our travels relying upon local people to take us to the photographic opportunities.  Our trip to Sakon Nakhon was no exception.  Through my wife I explained what I was interested in. The driver understood and wrote down 6 places that we could go to.  Our first stop was Wat Suwaneen Gindalam on the outskirts of the city.

Wat Suwaneen Gindalam is located on a dirt road in a forested area.  The two wax castles were being constructed under an open sided shed.  The shed resembled a boat shed back in Connecticut with a corrugated metal roof and myriad plastic tarps to shelter the sculptures from the sun.  It has gotten cooler here in Isaan, but it is all relative.  The hot days of April when it can go up to 100 to 105F have cooled down to days of 85-90F - in the shade.  Care must be taken to protect the sculptures from melting in the sun.

The Wat grounds were filled with activity.  Besides people working in the shed, there were women outside of an auxiliary building preparing and cooking food.  Next to them some men setting up tables and chairs for a celebration the next day. Between the groups at the auxiliary building and the shed, a small group of teen aged boys were busy cutting banana stalks into fancy designs, making flower buds out of flower petals and decorating a small woven bamboo house to be used in conjunction with towing the wax castles.  As we entered the shed, we saw four young novice Monks busy cutting Styrofoam disks and  covering the disks with banana leaves.

Using A Speaker As A Table, Young Man Works on A Castle Component

Inside of the shed, beneath the metal roof and tarps, there were several workstations - tables to cast wax elements for the castle, equipment to melt wax, and tables to assemble wax components.  I guess they were short a table because a large speaker was being used as a table to assemble a house type component for the castle.

Worker Pours Wax to Create An Ornamental Casting

Wax Strips Are Prepared to be Melted

A combination of young men and young Monks were occupied in the shed constructing the wax castles.  The only female that we saw, a teen aged girl, was busy attaching a fabric skirt around the base of the smaller wax castle.  She was surrounded by two long unfurled rolls of fabric, pink and white, that she was creating a bunting over the yellow pleated fabric skirt of the float.

Bunting Being Applied to Base of Wax Castle

The people were very friendly and also very informative.  Our driver, who did not speak any English, kept telling Duang that all the people there were his friends,  Later we found out that he lived near the Wat.  I joked with him through Duang that I didn't care if they were his friends or not, I was getting some good pictures!  The Lao Loum people have great senses of humor and enjoy joking with each other or with a foreigner.  Duang and he went off to bring back some cold drinks for me - and the shed workers.

We spent two hours at this location.  It satisfied all my needs and exceeded my expectations.  In that first stop, our driver had earned his fee and I was happy.

Worker Uses Soldering Iron to Install Decorative Wax Casting

We learned a great deal talking with the workers and observing them.  First of all, the wax castles are not sculpted or carved from wax. The castles are first constructed of wood and 1/8" plywood - as in cabinet making.  Melted wax is poured into molds to create the decorative panels, statues, decorative elements that are attached to the wood base.  Soldering irons are used to fuse the various wax components together.  In some places, nail guns are employed to attach elements.

Cast Wax Panel Along Base of Float

Secondly, these exquisite works are not built during the three days leading up to the procession.  The construction of these castles actually starts with the beginning of Buddhist Lent/Buddhist  Retreat.  Hmmm ... that makes quite a bit of sense.  For the 90 day period of Lent, the Monks are supposed to stay at their home Wat.  Although they are supposed to concentrate on meditation and the scriptures, I suspect that working on the wax castles helps pass the time.

The castles at Wat Suwaneen Gindalam had been under construction for 2-1/2 months. The castles cost between 200,000 Baht to 250,000 Baht ( $6,666 to $8,333 USD) to build.  HRH The King provides funding to build the wax castles.  Some of the people are paid to work on the wax castles.  The man in the photograph above has worked on wax castles for 9 years.  Each year a new wax castle is built.  The Abbott of the Wat designs the wax castle.  The castles are mounted on a trailer which is towed by a tractor trailer truck that is completely decorated.  Florescent light tubes line the edge of the float to illuminate the castle at night during the procession through the downtown area.

Melting A Decoration Into Place

Young Man Works On Details Of Wax Statue

The wax castles are very detailed.  The architecture of the wax castles reminds me greatly of the Grand Palace in Bangkok.  Just as in the Grand Palace, mythological creatures such as the Garuda, and Yakshas from the Thai epic Ramakien (Ramakian) are used as structural and decorative elements.
When we left Wat Suwaneen Gindalam, the workers gave us a wax Garuda and a wax Lion statue as mementos of our visit.  The statues are now kept in our bedroom.

Novice Monk Making Flower Buds from Petals Spread Before Him

Binding Petals to Create A Flower Bud

 

The Smaller Wax Castle At Wat Suwaneen Gindalam

 

Our next stop was at Wat Sapansee which was even further outside of the city.  I was now in complete relaxed mode - the first stop had satisfied my needs so from then on it was "icing on the cake" for me.  I may have been more relaxed but I had not lost my focus.  There were the championship long boat races in town at 2:00 PM but we had seen them before in Kumphawapi and were planning on seeing them once gain on 3 and 4 November so we decided to forgo the races for more wax castle building.  Foreigners in Thailand often make light of a popular Thai expression "Same Same but different!"  Well our stop at Wat Sapansee was just like that expression - It was the same but it was different.

 

Tractor Trailer Truck Being Decorated At Wat Sapansee

Wat Sapansee was even busier than Wat Suwaneen Gindalam.  People were busy decorating the tractor that would pull the wax castle some 20 Km into Sakon Nakhon for the parade. Three boys were spraying the wax castle with water to keep it cooler as we arrived.  Many people were installing bumper pads made from rice stalks along the trailer frame where the wax castle would be mounted while others were attaching blocks of water soaked florist's arrangement media and chicken wire to the trailer frame. Monks were braiding strips of banana leaves into Nagas (mythological snakes) for decorations.  Some Monks and laymen were working on a special bamboo and wood castle off to the side.  Three women were working on making a long garland from string and plastic jasmine buds.  One of the old ladies with red stained lips from betelnut chewing started to flirt with me.  I told in Thai "Excuse me, I am sorry.  I have a Lao wife"  Without missing a heartbeat she replied "That's OK, I don't mind.  I can be your mistress"  We all had a big laugh.  I do appreciate and cherish the Lao Loum sense of humor.

 

Monk Braiding Banana Leaf Strips to Create "Nagas"

Off to the side there was another large group of women working on banana leaves and cutting Styrofoam for some kind of decoration.  Beyond them was yet another group of women preparing food - the ubiquitous "pauk pauk" - spicy papaya salad.

 

Making Wax Lotus Flower Decorations

The biggest group of people, a mixed group of all ages, was occupied making lotus flower decorations out of wax.  They dipped molds into orange melted wax to create an open flower cup.  A woman was slicing turmeric root which resembled a carrot to place in the center of the flower cup.  The slice of turmeric root was held in place with a simulated stem by using a splayed sliver of bamboo which another woman was creating by shaving bamboo with a knife.

 

Wax Lotus Flowers

We spent 1-1/4 hours at this location.  We bought ice-cream for everyone and I am still trying to figure out how 100 Baht ($3.33 USD) ended up feeding everyone, including me, a cup of ice cream from the motorbike ice-cream man.  There had to be more, much more than 20 people.  I guess it was just one of those mysteries of the universe or ... perhaps a modern day miracle?

 

It was very impressive to observe the sense of community and purpose exhibited by the people as they worked.  Monks, old women, young women, old men, young men, and children were all cooperating and having a great time as they worked on the wax castle. It was also reassuring to see the culturally unique arts and crafts being retained as well as passed along.  The fabric of Lao Loum life here in Isaan is a very rich tapestry.

 

A Hard Working Yai (Grandmother)

 

Making White Lotus Flowers

As we were preparing to leave the production of lotus flowers entered the final stages.  A young man arrived by motorbike and broke three good sized white candles into a pot over a charcoal fire (charcoal as in "homemade kind" and not a commercial hydrocarbon briquette product).  When the wax melted, some of the women dipped actual scored lotus bulbs into the wax and then into water to create a small diameter white lotus flower.  The previously assembled orange lotus flowers were then disassembled and reassembled to create the final lotus flower - orange outside, white inside, with a yellow turmeric slice in the center - gorgeous.

 

Four Completed Wax Lotus Flowers

Wat Sapansee Wax Castle

It was getting late in the afternoon and had become obvious that we would not get to all six Wats on our driver's list - not that it really mattered.  We had been to two excellent places and had become wet, thirsty and tired.

 

Our driver took us into town to Wat Phra That Choeng Chum which is a listed tourist attraction for Sakon Nakhon.  It is located at the edge of the lake where long boat racing was still going on at 4:00 PM.  It was noisy and very crowded so we did not take in the races.  Instead we went in another shed type structure to observe their wax castle.

 

Wat Phra That Choeng Chum Wax Castle

 

 

Wax Panel Detail - Scene from Ramakien

The Wat grounds were so inviting that decided to explore them first before returning to the car.  As so often is the case, a pause to relax was well rewarded.  The Wat structures, Chedi and Bot were beautiful.

 

 



Lao Style Chedi at Wat Phra That Choeng Chum

 

Lan Xang Era Bot at Wat Phra That Choeng Chum

 

Exterior Column Detail of Bot

Duang Prays At Wat Phra That Choeng Chum

We returned to our hotel at 5:00 PM; both of us exhausted and happy.  After a little rest and very nice dinner for less than $20 total, we were off to bed. It was a very quiet night's sleep.  We would definitely return to the Dusit Hotel.

 

The next morning on our way back to Udonthani we went back to Wat Suwaneen.  At the Wat we found out that the people had worked until 3:00 AM to complete the wax castles.  The castles were beautiful with fresh flowers and plastic jasmine blossom fringe arranged along the edges of the trailer.

 

Completed Wax Castle Float

 

Completed Portion That Was Under Construction The Day Before

 

An added bonus to our stop at the Wat was the people had completed installing the lights on the float and were checking them out.

 

Illuminated Wax Castle

 

 

Our return home was just as pleasant as our drive to Sakon Nakhon. We hope to return next year to witness the procession.  This short trip had been just as educational and enlightening as any of the other travels that we have made here in Southeast Asia and specifically in Isaan.



A New Photo Gallery Is Available

My latest photo gallery, "October 2012 Lao Loum Funerals", is now available for viewing.  The gallery contains 39 new photographs documenting the ritual and culture of Lao Loum funerals here in Isaan.

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Other/October-2012-Lao-Loum-Funerals/26160815_RZ6ssR

Photo Additions - "Runny Noses and Dirty Faces - Children"



Young Lao Loum Girl Participates In Merit Making Ritual

Twenty eight new and recent photographs have been added to my popular photo gallery , "Runny Noses and Dirty Faces"

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Children/Runny-Noses-and-Dirty-Faces/7422101_hTQhXZ

Busy Times In Thailand

We have attended three funerals so far this month.  The remainder of this month and the start of November offer little time to rest and relax.  Although there will be little time for resting and relaxing, the next three weeks offer plenty of opportunities for enjoyment and fun.  They will also present some unique opportunities to take some more photographs to share and experiences to write about of some unique cultural and events here in Thailand.

This week, 26-30 October is the Sakon Nakhon Wax Festival.  The festival celebrates the end of Buddhist Lent. During the festival large and intricate bees wax sculptures are created.  The highlight of the festival is a procession of the sculptures through the downtown area.  Two years ago, Duang and I attended a similar festival for the start of Buddhist Lent in Ubon Ratchatani.  We witnessed the beauty and grandeur of the Ubon Ratchathani nighttime procession.

For the Sakon Nakhon Wax Festival, we are going to observe the construction of the wax sculptures.  Since we can not attend the procession, we will focus on the activities and efforts leading up to the grand parade.

Sakon Nakhon is two hours east of our home.  It should be very interesting including staying in a $21.64 a night hotel.

Villagers Make Merit In Sala that is Under Construction In Tahsang Village

The reason that we can not witness the procession in Sakon Nakhon is that we will be attending a very special merit making ritual in Tahsang Village.  I have written before that there are two Wats in Tahsang Village - one inside the village, "Inside" where "Rocketman" stays and another outside, "Outside" in the middle of the sugar cane fields and on the edge of the flood plain.  My wife and her family prefer the "Outside" Wat.  two years ago the worship hall, "Sala" was torn down.  Since then a new Sala has been periodically constructed.  Periodically constructed?  Yes.  As the people have enough money, the turnkey contractor performs the next phase of construction.

When we were in America, Duang and I each purchased a column in the Sala.  When I was there on the 15th I noticed that no names were placed on the columns.  I was wondering which one was mine.  Duang told me that when construction was completed, names would then be placed.  Since "my" column had not been identified yet, I told the Monks through Duang that I wanted the column on the left hand side of the door to be mine.  Why?  It is the column that I always lean against to put my shoes on.  I am the only person that I have seen that wears laced up shoes.  People remove their shoes before entering the sala.  Since I don't wear flip-flops, putting on my shoes is a little more complicated than the other people.  I lean against the column to maintain my balance to put on and lace up my shoes.  Everyone had a good laugh at my request.

The Sala has been roughed in - the roof is on, the bare concrete slab has been poured, and the some of the short side walls have been erected.  Workman have just started installing the decoration, Shan or Thai Yai style filigree on the edges of the roof.

During Buddhist Lent, Monks can not travel about the countryside.  They are restricted to sleeping in their home Wat.  October 30th is OK Panhsa day, the end of the Buddhist Lent or Retreat Season.  To help gather donations to complete or continue construction of the Tahsang Village Sala, 100 Monks will be visiting and spending the night.  This will make for a grand merit making opportunity for the local people.  Duang and I are donating the drinking water for the Monks.  I have also been asked to take some photographs of the ritual.

Long Boat Racing In Kumphawapi

The next week, 3rd and 4th of November is the Long Boat racing Festival in nearby Kumphawapi.  We had attended the event two years ago and found it very entertaining.

Royal Barges On Display at Royal Barge Museum

November 9th is a very perhaps an extremely important event.  On Friday, November 9, in Bangkok, there will  be a Royal Barge Procession on the Chao Phraya River.  This will be the 16th time during the King's 66 year reign that there has been such a procession.  The purpose of the procession is to transport the Crown Prince to Wat Arun where he will present robes to the Monks to commemorate the end of Buddhist Lent and his father's birthday on December 5th.

We will be staying at a hotel right at the water's edge.  I will be taking still photographs and Duang will be using our movie camera to document the procession of 52 barges and 2,200 costumed sailors rowing the barges.

In one of our trips to Bangkok as part of the process to obtain a via for Duang to go the USA, we had spent a couple of hours at the Royal Barge Museum where some of the barges are kept on display.  During our visit one of the barges was being restored.  It will be exciting to see that barge completed, manned and underway.  Of course my greatest anticipation is to see the splendid barge, Suphannahong (Golden Swan) pass by.  Suphannahong is the King's personal personal barge.  HRH Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn will be on the Suphannahong representing the King and Royal family.

About the time that I have finished editing all the photographs and writing about the above events, it will be time for the rice harvest,  holiday of Loi Krathong, Hmong New Years in Lao, Christmas, and New Years and who know what else to witness - always something to do and something to learn.