Saturday, February 14, 2009

Bangkok Erawan Shrine

In the mid 1950s a new luxury hotel was being constructed in downtown Bangkok.


As part of site preparation for the Erawan Hotel some trees were cut down. Animists believe that spirits inhabit certain trees. Throughout Thailand you will see large trees wrapped in bands of brightly colored clothes. In addition there are often long decorated wood poles leaning against the tree trunks as part of offerings to the spirits. These beliefs have nothing to do with Buddhism but have their roots in Hindu and Animist faiths that predate Buddhism.


Supposedly the start of the construction of the hotel's foundations also was not on a "good" date. Prior to the start of important activities, Monks are often consulted to determine the best date and time to start the endeavor.


Construction of the hotel was bedevilled by many problems. Cost overruns, the loss of marble at sea, accidents, injuries to workers and most seriously the deaths of some construction workers affected the project. These problems also affected the people's attitudes and perceptions of the project.


After consultation with a Hindu religious authority a shrine to the Hindu god of creation, Bramaha on top of his elephant, Erawan, was constructed and then dedicated at the "correct" date and time.


The site of the hotel is now the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel. After the shrine was built in 1956 at the corner of the property the problems disappeared.


Legend has it that a Thai woman went to the shrine and prayed for success of her business. In return for a successful business she promised to return and dance in celebration as well as homage. Her business succeeded and she kept her promise.


Today there is a resident troupe of Lakhon chatri dancers who for a donation will dance and sing for patrons. People pay them to offer thanksgiving for granted favors or to request favors. A small group of musicians play traditional music for the classical Thai dancers. The dancers while performing hold small pieces of paper with the patron's name and reason for the performance written.

With this being Thailand, everything is not always what they appear to be. The Lakhon chatri dancers are essentially female. However not every dancer is a woman. Some of the dancers are Kathoeys - "Lady Boys". This is not a problem and is accepted without question by the Thai people.





On the sidewalks outside of the shrine stalls sell flowers, garlands, soft drinks, incense sticks, yellow candles, and other religious paraphernalia for the waiting worshippers. The tiny area of the shrine is filled with clouds of pungent smoke from burning joss sticks.

The shrine is heavily draped with garlands of flowers around the necks of the elephants. Some devotees make offerings of some small elephant figurines









There a a few concrete benches along the perimeter of the shrine and are convenient locations to watch the religious observations and to take in the aura of the devotees. Many Thai people passing the shrine either walking, riding on a motorbike, riding on the over head train, or in a motor vehicle will perform a wai in respect. Throughout Thailand, respect in the form of wais, floral offerings, joss sticks, and candles are made to shrines and statues of historical figures.




The Erawan Shrine is a Bangkok tourist attraction and worth the small effort required to visit it.

1 comment:

  1. Hi LXA Buddy,
    Realy like the look on both websites. Like that you are able to add pictures to your stories.Keep up he good work. J

    ReplyDelete