Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Khantoke Dinner

I have been busy the past few days with myriad activities. My biggest investment of time has been creating another gallery, "Runny Noses and Dirty Faces", on my photography website http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/gallery/7422101_oLip3/1/478397481_nSuvY

This gallery are some previously unposted photographs of children from SE Asia and the USA.

Last week we spent half of a day applying for a new passport in Duang's new name. Fortunately, Thailand now has a passport office here in Udonthani so we avoided the necessity to travel to Koen Kaen or worse yet - Bangkok. The process was very straight forward - show up with old passport, national ID card, blue house book, marriage certificate, MY US Passport (?), and 1,050 Baht ($30 USD). No need for photographs, digital photos are taken at the office as part of the application process. They told us that her new passport would be mailed to our home and that we would have it in 7 days. They were correct, we did have it on the following Tuesday in fact we had it on the previous Saturday. Saturday afternoon, a man on a motorbike pulled up to our gate and rang the bell. He was a courier delivering Duang's passport - 4 days after she had applied for it.

Yesterday we went out to the villages - to take Duang's father to the hospital for dental work and to visit her two week old grandson. On the way out of Udonthani towards Kumphawapi, we came upon an accident scene - 4 cars, a pickup truck laden with propane cooking gas cylinders and a motor bike. The cars had banged up quarter panels. The bike was lying on its side in a large pool of blood. Duang remarked that she thought the motor bike driver had been killed. Looking quickly as we passed, it appeared to me that the motor bike had pulled over into the far right lane to make a U turn or a right turn. The road is divided but there are some locations where there is lane that you can pull over into to make a cross or U turn. Unfortunately many Thai drivers, especially the ones who drive fast and aggressively also use the same lane to go straight. The motor bike was apparently struck by one of these people who did not see him or could not stop in time. We found out later that the motor bike driver had been killed.

Two weeks earlier a falang on a motor bike had been killed. Some people claimed that the motor bike had been deliberately struck by a sugar cane truck. The police caught the truck driver and he denied that he DELIBERATELY STRUCK the bike, "HE WAS ONLY CUTTING HIM OFF".

Since we have lived here in Udon the past 9 months we have come upon 3 fatal motor bike accidents. Not all of the accidents have been the fault of the other participant in the accident. I have been stopped at an intersection in the right hand lane giving a signal to make a right hand turn only to have a motorbike come up on my right side and make a left turn in front of me as I started making my turn. Luckily, I am aware of Thai driving practices and do not drive aggressively - I drive much more defensively around here than back in the USA and anticipate the unexpected as well as the stupid. Not every one does. There will be blood - I am certain.

On to more pleasant things - Khantoke Dinner.

Northern Thailand in the area around Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai used to be the Kingdom of Lanna. In English it is translated as the "Land of Million Rice Fields". In the Lanna kingdom people were given enough land to raise 60 kilos of rice. Princes were awarded 1000 rice fields. The Kingdom of Lanna was not incorporated into the Kingdom of Thailand until the late 1800's. The Northern Thailand regions has a distinct culture from the central and coastal regions of Thailand.

An entertaining introduction into some of the Lanna culture is to attend a Khantoke Dinner and Show. These productions are a modern interpretation of the hospitality and culture given to important guests during the days of the Lanna Kingdom.

Duang and I attended a Khantoke Dinner and Show during our last visit to Chiang Mai. It was a great experience as well as wonderful food.

We started dining around 7:00 PM. We entered the combination restaurant/theater and were graciously seated at a 3 foot diameter black lacquered circular table. At the front of the room there was a stage area. The tables like ours lined the rectangular perimeter of another performing area at the elevation that we were seated at. We sat on the "floor" but unlike the traditional Thai custom of sitting cross legged on the floor, our floor was raised so that we were able to sit in a customary Western seated position at our table.

Hostesses dressed in traditional clothing brought bowls of typical Northern Thai food to our table on circular woven bamboo trays called "toke". The hostesses wear colorful ankle length skirts called "Bhasin" that have intricate designed patterns with a close fitted long sleeve blouse called a "Suakhan Krabok" along with a shawl or sash called a "Sabai Chiang" over the blouse. In their hair the hostesses wore orchids. It was very elegant, and beautiful.

The night that we were there we had: Chiang Mai Style Banana Fritters, Clear Vegetable Soup, Chiang Mai Styled Pork Curry with Ginger and Tamarind, Deep Fried Chicken, Grilled Young Chili Paste with Steamed Vegetables, Minced Pork with Tomato Sauce, Crispy Pork Skin, Stir Fried Vegetables, Crispy Rice Noodles, Sticky Rice or if you preferred Steamed Rice, Fresh fruit, and tea. The food was very tasty and the portions were huge. It was delicious and very enjoyable.




At 7:45 PM the show started. The dancers entered the building from outside and walked between the row of tables up to the stage area. As the performers entered the room, they were performing a "Candle Dance" as a combination of worship and to greet guests in the Lanna tradition. It was very beautiful as well as elegant.










On the elevated stage the men performed a "War Dance". The war dance included some very acrobatic beating of various types of drums. In the old days these dances and drum beating motivated the Lanna troops into battle. The history of Northern Thailand is littered with battles, wars, and rebellions so there must have been a great deal of drumming in the old days.

The remainder of the show was performed at the level where we were seated. Photography as well as video was not a problem. The performers were very photogenic and reacted well to being photographed and filmed.


After the war dance, the women performed a "Tee Dance". "Tee" in Thai means "umbrella". The umbrella is often used by women in Northern Thailand and it is a symbol for Lanna women.




Following the tee or umbrella dance, a man and a woman danced an episode from the "Ramakian" The Ramakian is Thailand's greatest ancient literary work that is heavily influenced by India's "Ramayana". The man is "Hanuman - The Monkey Warrior General" He was on his way to attack a city when a female perhaps a goddess interfered and blocked his way with stones. He is upset and chases her to kill her. The female dancer represents the woman who interfered and caused Hanuman's wrath. When Hanuman catches up and meets her he changes his mind. Yes there is no telling what a good looking skillful female dancer can do to a man's heart. The dance performed is about that long ago event.


After the episode from the Ramakian the women put on traditional Hill Tribe clothing and performed a traditionally inspired "New Years Dance". It was followed by a young man doing a "Sword Dance"











The sword dance was followed by a dance called "Sueng Ka pho". The "Sueng Ka pho" is a dance that I have also seen performed in Cambodia and Isaan. It is a country dance more typical of farmers than professionals. It has the rhythm and beat of the rice paddies. It utilizes everyday items such as coconut shells and pottery to make the music or serve as props in the performance.

The last dance which included audience participation was "Rumwong" - a cheerful simple dance started in the early 1900's.

The conclusion of the show was setting off of fireworks and lighted lanterns into the night time sky. The show ended around midnight - too soon as far as we were concerned.

Writing about that special night gives me itchy feet. My feet are itchy from the mosquitoes that seem to love me but the itchiness is also to travel once again to the "Land of a Million Rice Fields".

Additional photographs from the Kingdom of Lanna can be viewed at:

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/gallery/7122834_w8iKa/1/456786498_pCnX3

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/gallery/7114224_bmq5E/1/456181140_E8v6r


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