Wot Sothon Dancers

Dance comprises a large part of Thai as well as Lao culture. Dance runs the gamut from 60s and 70s style Go Go dancing in the tourist venues to classical Thai dances performed on Buddhist temple grounds or part of stage productions.


Little Kwan from Tahsang Village, who is a year old now. is into "dancing". Although she can not walk yet she has been dancing for about a month. It does not take much a rhythm or beat to set her off. Hand and arm movements are essential components of Thai dance so Kwan's inability to walk is not a liability. She does try some dance movements with her legs - standing unsupported on her own and flexing a few times from her knees prior to landing on her bottom. Sitting on her bottom watching the older people dance does not prevent here from imitating their leg movements as best she can while seated. She does all this with a large four toothed grin from ear to ear. She seems to enjoy it as much as everyone who watches her.

Even in somewhat isolated villages such as Tahsang, there are numerous opportunities for dancing. In addition to someone always playing mahlam lao music loudly on their radio, there are many celebrations or festivals with live bands. The festivals and celebrations are truly family affairs with four generations attending as well as actively participating together.


In Kwan's case her care givers have some sort of Isaan rap routine that chant which sets her off to dancing. Not that Kwan needs too much structure to start her dance routines. I have seen her dance to the sound of a rough idling motorbike.

Weddings, Monk Ordinations, and many Buddhist Holidays are occasions for street processions. The villagers and friends after drinking beer and Lao moonshine will parade through the village in front of a large stake body truck laden with huge speakers, and sound system. While the truck blasts out the driving beats of marhlam Lao, the participants continue their drinking all the while dancing. It is a very merry affair.

It is a little strange to witness this merry band of "good natured" dancers in such "great spirit" to march through the gate and enter on to the temple grounds. Odd at first but after seeing it so many times and also attending stage shows complete with people getting drunk on temple grounds, you learn to accept it as a part of the fabric of Isaan life.

Last week, I wrote about the Lakhon chatri dancers at Erawan Shrine. The Erawan Shrine is not the only place to see Lakhon chatri dancers. Dance groups perform at many different Wats on special occasions and regularly at others. My favorite Wat to observe Lakhon chatri dancers is at Wat Sothon Wararam Warahan, commonly referred to as Wat Sothon.

Wat Sothon is located 100 KM east of Bangkok on the bank of the Bang Pakong River in the city of Chachoengsao. The region is heavily agricultural with many rice paddies and mango groves. I first visited it when I was living in Pattaya. Duang had arranged for my company driver to take us there one weekend morning.

Wat Sothon contains a very sacred statue of Buddha called "Luang Pho Sothon". The temple is the most heavily visited Wat in the Bangkok area. Many Thai people visit the Wat to worship. In thanksgiving for favors granted, pilgrims make offerings of boiled eggs, cooked pig's head, or commission performances by the resident Lakhon Chatri dancers.

The area where the dancers perform as well as the adjoining room where the statue is located is very crowded and filled with smoke from burning joss stick offerings. There is no air conditioning. Ventilation is provided by some large fans. Some how the sweltering heat seems only to underline the experience of this special place.

In addition to the dancing, the resident troupe also chants. Photography and video taping the performances is not an issue. The dancers are very photogenic. Outside of the area where they perform you can sit and watch them eat, drink, and relax prior to performing. Some of the performers have their children with them. It is apparent that the next generation of Wat Sothon dancers are being prepared.

You can also board a boat tour of the Bang Pakang River. The boat takes you down river to an old market built upon wood piles along side of the river. The old market has many food vendors and some old shops. The boat returns you to Wat Sothon.

The boat tour is predominately Thai families. Our tour was no different. It was especially entertaining to one little girl - a "naughty girl". I took some photos of her and she vacillated between shyness and curiosity. after awhile she evolved to the point of being precocious - a "naughty girl" and rolled her tongue as she stuck it out.

Although the dancers at Wat Sothon may not be high lighted or even mentioned in many guide books, a day trip to Chachoengsao is highly recommended.