Special Merit Making

Last week we drove out into the countryside to visit and make merit with the forest Monk.

Duang had learned of the forest Monk from a friend of a friend. That is often the way that news and reputations travel here in Isaan.  Many Monks have the reputation for being able to cure people, predict the future, determine lottery winning numbers, cure alcohol and/or drug abuse, exorcise evil spirits, and many other skills.  This really has nothing at all to do with Buddhism.  It is not the way that Buddhism is supposed to be.  However just as in any other place  in the world or in any other religion, there is the way that things are supposed to be and then there are the ways that things actually are.

Animist Spirit House Plays Central Role At Buddhist Wat

Originally the peoples of Thailand were Animists, believing in spirits and the power of spirits to affect their life.  Hinduism then arrived in Siam and rather than getting rid of the old beliefs and practices, the peoples just incorporated the new religion into their cultures.  Later Buddhism arrived and just as was the case with Hinduism, the new religion was incorporated into the previous religions.  Today the influences and elements of all three religions play a very meaningful daily role in the Lao Loum culture.

One of the traits that I was first impressed about Duang when I first met her was her spirituality.  Now after seven years of being with her and witnessing her faith as well as seeing her live her faith every day, I am even more impressed and convinced.

Duang had heard from her friend's friend about the ability of the forest Monk to help people.  We ended up taking both of the women with us to visit the forest Monk.  Duang's stomach has been acting up again so she wanted to consult and make merit to alleviate her condition.  She is also consulting with doctors at the nearby military hospital too - much to my relief and insistence.

Duang's friends also believed that for her upcoming birthday, she should participate in special merit making to bring her good fortune and good luck.

We arrived at Wat Ban Mat in time to participate in the typical morning merit making ritual of offering food to the Monk.  Since he lives in a very rural location, the forest Monk does not go on a daily alms walk.  The people bring food to him at his primitive Wat.

Duang Lights Candles Before Making Offerings

After the people had made their food offerings to the Monk, there was a ritual that involved chanting by both the Monk and lay people.  Part of the ritual involved pouring water into a container while the Monk chanted.  This is a common ritual that to my understanding transfers the merit making to the spirits of departed family members through the flowing of the water.  After the ritual is completed the lay people respectfully pour the water from their individual containers on the base of the trees and plants of the Wat's grounds.  As the people pour the water on the ground they say prayers for the nourishment of the spirits that dwell within the trees and plants.

After the conclusion of the ritual involved with offering the Monk food and after he had eaten his one meal of the day, Duang's offerings of 52 fresh flowers, rice, 52 large candles, some coins, a small square of gold foil, small yellow birthday cake candles, 52 joss (incense) sticks, Jasmine buds, and a white envelope with a cash offering, all topped by a passport sized photograph of Duangchan was relocated from the shrine inside the primitive sala, where the food offerings were made, to an outside shrine adjacent to the sala.  The offerings were placed on sahts that had been laid upon the concrete slab in front of the shrine.

Duang's Special Offerings Placed Before Shrine

The forest Monk walked over to the outside shrine and after bowing his head to the ground twice, commenced the special merit making ritual by setting seven of the 52 larger pale orange candles into a brass vessel in the shape of the Royal Barge, Subanahongsa (Golden Swan) the mythological swan like steed of the Hindu god Brahma.  The first candle was lit using a cigarette lighter.  Subsequent candles were lit using a previously lit candle first lighting the wick and then melting some of the bottom before placing it the brass holder. He then ignited 52 joss sticks (incense), one for each of Duang's fifty years (she is actually 49 in US terms but in Thailand your birthday marks the end of your year so the day after your birthday you are considered already a year older i.e. day after your first birthday you are in your second year of life)  plus one for Buddha and one for the teachings of Buddha (Dhamma) using lighted candles. This was the reasoning behind the 52 flowers and larger candles. There is also more to the symbolism of the offerings than just the number of them.  Duang was born on 17 October 1963 which was a Thursday.  Here in Thailand there is a color associated with each day of the week.  The color for Thursday is "Orange".  The color of the HRH King Rama XI is"Yellow" because he was born on a Saturday.  Often in Thailand you will see people wearing a shirt or a blouse of the appropriate color for the day of the week.

Duang's offering of flowers was also supposed to coincide with the color of her birth date.  However orange flowers are difficult to find, the forest Monk had told Duang in a previous consultation that "pale pink" flowers would be acceptable for her special merit making related to her upcoming birthday.

Monk Igniting 52 Joss Sticks

Tamping Out The Joss Stick Flames

Once the flames of the Joss sticks had torch like intensity, the forest Monk tamped out the fire on some cinder blocks conveniently located arm's distance from his location in front of  "Seated Buddha".  He then gave Duang the smoldering sticks that wafted light pungent grey smoke into the still late morning air by placing them on a ceramic plate in front of her.  He, as a Monk, has a vow to not touch women, so transfers of items between women and Monks is achieved using a plate, tray, cloth, by tossing/dropping or male intermediary.

As Duang was making her offering of the incense, the Monk was busy placing her offering of fresh carnations on each side of the shrine, along with the other offerings.  Once Duang had finished offering the incense, she stuck them into a sand filled ceramic bowl to the right of the Monk.

Sii Sein (cotton string) Connects Monk and Lay People in a Great Circle

The forest Monk then unraveled some cotton string from a bobbin, much like butcher's string, and strung it out in a great circle passing from the bobbin in an offering plate placed on an offering tray, through the hands of Duang's friends.  The sii sein is used in connection with special merit making rituals.  Although the cotton string is used in many events, it is only considered to be sii sein when used by a Monk at funerals, special Buddhist holidays, and special merit making rituals.

After the conclusion of Duang's special merit making ritual, the forest Monk returned to the concrete raised

platform where he had  eaten his meal of the day.  From this position he socialized with the lay people.  The people asked him for his opinion and advice regarding all types of family issues such as jobs, health, children problems, and good numbers for the upcoming lottery that afternoon.  The forest Monk would tell them of his dreams and contemplate what would be best for each person.

Duang went and played the lottery using the numbers that he had given.  Things got very exciting at our home around 4:15 P.M. when a relative called with the winning numbers - Duang had won 10,000 Baht ($330 USD)!  I was very happy for her and relished seeing her excitement.

Like so often it happens here in Isaan, I am left wondering.  I don't necessarily believe all that I write about.  I may also not always understand what I have observed and documented.  However, I always find it interesting and often, fascinating.

I seem to be learning and experiencing something new just about every day.  That is what makes life so interesting and keeps the passion going ... even after many years.

Forest Monk

Forest Monk Performing Merit Making Ritual

Yesterday, we picked up two of Duang's friends from Udonthani and drove out into the countryside to pay a visit to a special Monk.

We drove out deep into the countryside much of it along a heavily potholed dirt road bordered on both sides by flooded rice paddies, wood lots, and rubber plantations.  Widely scattered about the countryside were solitary humble houses.

Our journey was to visit a special Monk.  Here in Isaan there are Monks renowned for their ability to heal people, to for tell the future, to determine auspicious days for life events such as getting marred or moving into a new home, and to exorcise evil spirits.  Some of the Monks are often consulted regarding selecting numbers for the various lotteries.

The Monk  that we were going to see had helped the woman that we were taking with us.  She is an old Mor Lam entertainer,  She used to perform in shows with Duang's father and care for Duang when Duang was a child. At one point she had mental problems and did not have a home.  She visited the Monk and made merit.  She is now cured and has a home.

The Monk lives out in very rural location in the Thai Forest Tradition.  The Thai Forest Tradition is part of Thai Theravada Buddhism where practitioners live in remote areas that serve as spiritual practice and training grounds.  Apart from the distractions of modern society, the Monks are better situated to meditate.

Theravada Buddhism in Thailand is comprised of two main orders:  Maha Nikaya and Dhammayuttika Nikaya.  Maha Nikaya is the largest as well as the oldest monastic order.

Dhammayuttika Nikaya was founded in 1833 by HRH Prince Mongkut, who later became Rama IV one of Thailand's most revered Kings.  The Dhammayuttika Nikaya is more strict in adherence to the Vinya, rules orally passed down from Buddha to his disciples.

Adherents of Dhammayuttika practice Buddhism and work to have a lifestyle like Buddha and his early disciples.  The Monks are referred to as "Forest Monks" because they live in forests just as the historical Buddha who often lived in the forests both during his spiritual quest and later.

I have written about the "Inside" and "Outside" Wats in Tahsang Village.  The difference between the two temples is that the "Inside" Wat is Maha Nikaya whereas the "Outside" Wat is Dhammayuttika Nikaya.  Duang prefers the Dhammayuttika Nikaya practice so we attend most of the events at the "outside" Wat but she is not adverse to attending rituals at the "Inside" Wat - another example of tolerance in Thailand and a demonstration of her adherence to the tenets of Buddhism.

Shrine to Elders of the Forest Monk Tradition

A very important aspect of the Forest Tradition is veneration for older Monks.  In the primitive sala of this Wat, the left shrine consisted of several photographs of elder Monks rather the typical large statue of Buddha in Maha Nikaya Wats.

Woman Offering Sticky Rice to Monk For His Single Daily Meal

Man Preparing to Offer More Sticky Rice to Monk

We arrived at the primitive Wat at 10:00 A.M., in time for the daily merit making ritual of offering food to the Monk for his single meal of the day which had to be consumed by Noon.

Monk Selecting the Food that He Will Eat

The sala where a majority of the merit making rituals are performed was very simple.  It was comprised of a concrete slab floor on which sahts (woven reed mats) were rolled out on for participants.  An elevated simple concrete platform was at one end of the sala. 

Monk Performing Ritual Associated With Accepting Food Offerings

The Monk sat on the raised platform to ensure that, in recognition of his higher status in this life, he was situated above the laypeople.  Three sides of the elevated platform were wrapped with stiff plastic nursery cloth - not the soft fabric that would be used in a baby's bedroom but the coarse woven plastic fabric used to shield plants from bright sunlight or to protect plants and their fruits from birds.  The partial enclosure offered some protection from winds.  Off to one side on the platform was a shrine.

At the other end of the sala, there was a simple table where rolled up sahts were stored. A breadbox sized heavy metal bell was suspended from the rafter at that same far end.

The paved area of the sala was covered with a bamboo pole and thatched paneled roof supported by six inch diameter (16 cm) wood columns cut from the surrounding forest.  To ensure more protection from the monsoonal rains, part of the roof was covered with a heavy vinyl  billboard poster - I believe from a previous election campaign.

Outside of the sala there were three spirit houses adorned with floral and food offerings.  There was also a large sheltered Seated Buddha statue.  There was also a very basic hut where the Monk slept.

Monk Showing Respect At Outdoor Shrine

In addition to participating in the merit making ritual of offering food to the forest Monk, Duang participated in a special merit making ritual along with the two other women ... but that will the subject of another blog; another day.

Songkran - Bone Washing

Showing Respect to and Elder Relative in Isaan

Songkran is a very special holiday here In Southeast Asia.  Most people outside of the region may know about it being the "Water Festival", a time when massive crowds gather in metropolitan areas and wage all out water wars.  International television networks every year broadcast clips typically of Bangkok or Chiang Mai of water drenched people, many of them tourists and many of them drunk. dancing about in a hedonistic frenzy.  I know much of what I have just written, for I was one of them, just once, in Pattaya seven years ago.

Just as Christmas has been hijacked with little regard for its origin and original intention, so to a large extent has Songkran, especially so in the metropolitan regions.

I am fortunate now in that I have a Thai family, a very large and extended family that lives in small villages amongst the rice paddies of Isaan.  I have the opportunity and take advantage of the opportunity to experience the more traditional Songkran in a rural and more intimate atmosphere.  There have actually been some instances this year where Songkran has come to Duang and me.

A Three Year Old Visitor Presents Me With A Pumalai Offering

Twice in the past week family members have come to our home for their young children to pay their respects to Duang and me.  The children ranging in age from 1-1/2 to 4 years old kneel before each of us, bow and present us with floral arrangements called pumalai.to show their respect.  Duang wishes them good luck and good fortune.  Since I don't speak their language, I say "Thank You" in Thai and give them hugs and kisses.   They seem to understand. Growing old is inevitable and can not be avoided, however it sure can be pleasurable with traditions such as this.

Getting Old Has Its Advantages

I have long believed that situations do not develop or events occur unto themselves or in a vacuum.  There are precursors to all situations and events that if we are aware are readily apparent.  If we are not fully aware at the time, we can go back later and connect the dots that lead up to either the event or situation that we are now experiencing.  This year's Songkran experience for me is no exception.

Songkran besides being a time for huge water fights in the cities is a time for people to clean their homes.  Tahsang Village was no exception.  The clutter and debris of front and most back yards in the village was gone.  The local government had arranged for trucks to haul away the items that had been thrown out but never removed over the past year.  Songkran is a time for cleaning; cleaning many things.

Songkran is also a time to demonstrate respect for elderly people, especially family members.  Family member from far and near unite in the villages to pay respect to elderly people by kneeling before them, presenting them offerings of jasmine flowers, pumalai, and cash.  The younger people then pour cool scented water over the out stretched hands of the elderly while wishing them good luck and good fortune.  The elderly accept and reciprocate by thanking the younger people, wishing them good luck as well as fortune , and often rub their wet cooler hands on the face, neck or head of the younger people.

Songkran is also the time when Buddhists in Southeast Asia make merit by pouring water over statues of Buddha to cool and cleanse them.  Smaller statues of Buddha are set up on highly decorated tables of flowers for the people of all ages to walk by and reverently pour water over each statue.

This Songkran I also experienced a combination of Tamboon Roi Wan and Tamboon Jaak Khao, "Bone Party" special merit making ritual for the spirits of family members who had been cremated. One aspect of the Bone Party was merit making ritual involving bone fragments placed inside of small metal chedis,  After the ritual concluded the chedis are kept in the family home.  The bone relics are kept in the home for one Songkran and upon the second Songkran a special ritual takes place when the bones are washed prior to internment in a large family chedi on the Wat grounds.

Yesterday there was a "Bone Washing" ritual for members of Duang's family at the Wat inside of Tahsang Village.  I was fortunate to be able to attend and experience the ritual - another dot that connected the progression of life in this world with the spirit world.  In this case it is a dot that is associated with Songkran - another connection to family, cleaning as well as respect for the elderly (deceased).

"Rocketman" Pouring Water Into Metal Chedis Containing Bone Fragments

The "Bone Washing" ritual commenced with the head Monk of the Wat pouring water into each of the three chedi which contained bone fragments.  The tray, a common metal tray used for serving food, upon which the chedis were placed was then removed from in front of the Monks by a male family member and placed on the floor of the Sala.  The tray was placed in front of the family members and behind the offerings of drinking water and toiletries that would be presented as later part of the ritual.

Family members, one by one, poured water into each of the chedis that contained the bone fragments.  Soon the chedis were overflowing with the water.  The water flowed gently over the chedis and was contained by the metal tray.  Bone fragments floated to the top of each chedi but did not spill out of the metal containers because of the care and diligence of the people pouring the water.

After the family members had completed pouring water over the bone fragments, the excess water contained by the metal tray was carefully transferred into a plastic insulated cooler that you often see in fields and homes throughout Isaan - for drinking water.

The tray was now placed to the right of the assembled offerings to the Monks and in front of the family members.  The three metal chedis were placed upon the metal serving tray once again and the bone washing ritual appeared to transition into a typical merit making ritual - a ritual performed every day throughout Thailand.

Offerings Being Made to the Monks

Pouring Water Allows Merit to be Transferred to the Spirits, Trays of Food and Drink Nourish the Spirits

Cotton String (Siesein) Connects the Spirit World to Our Present World

A cotton string, called a siesein, was unrolled and placed over the laps of the Monks, across the Sala floor, and laid across the offerings as well as all of the metal serving trays.  The string remained in place until chanting by the Monks was completed at which time the string was rewound on to it bobbin and returned to its storage location on the special area where Monks sit

At the conclusion of the merit making ritual with the Monks, the family members gathered the plastic cooler along with the tray of the chedi and climbed down the stairs of the Sala to the ground level.  A few steps brought the group to the perimeter wall of the Wat complex.  There were several large Chedi placed upon various concrete tiled bases.  Each chedi was for a different family and contained interned bones of their ancestors.  Poorer families, or rather families who can not yet afford a proper sized chedi, have smaller chedis or in some Wats the bones are stored inside of sealed niches in the wall.

The family chedi had the upper access port had been removed in anticipation of storing the bone fragments that had just been washed.  This was apparently in error.  Lacking a hammer a young man picked up a rock and used it to remove the cement seal around a lower access port.  Apparently the upper chamber of the chedi is reserved for the most senior members of the family.  These bones were of younger people so they had to be interned at the lower level.

Breaking the Seal of the Lower Chamber

Interning the Bones In Family Chedi

After the bones had been placed inside of the chedi, the port was placed back into position.  A senior aunt of the family washed the chedi with the bone washing water that had been placed in the blue plastic insulated container.  Out of concern for the future use of the container I asked Duang about what would happen to the container.  She assured me that it would not be used for drinking water but the Monks would use it for water in the rituals.

As I prepared to walk back to Duang's parents home in the village, Duang pointed out a gathering of Monks and people at a different location along the Wat perimeter wall.  In front of two identical chedi another family was participating in a bone washing ritual.

Duang informed me that there had been many more bone washing rituals the previous day.

Like many events and situations in life, Songkran is much more complex and different from what it may initially appear to be.  It often takes time and and patience to better understand what is happening.  Often it requires an open mind to get beyond the blatant demonstration of hedonism so prevalent today to commence to better understand the significance and beauty of the world about us.

With better understanding and a true appreciation of the events and situations, we are able to see how they really are all connected.

Thanksgiving 2012

 

 

Today is Thanksgiving here in Thailand; a day like every other day here.

Thailand does not celebrate or recognize this holiday.

However people do not need any government sanctioning of any specific day to reflect upon, give thanks, and to rejoice for all that is good in their life.

Yes, today is a day like any other day for me here in Isaan. Every day I contemplate, give thanks, and rejoice for all that is good in my life. But it is on American Thanksgiving that I celebrate, share, and communicate it with people other than my wife.

Thanksgiving has always been one of my favorite holidays.

Thanksgiving is a time for families to gather together to feast and celebrate the blessings of the past year. I believe that I am an optimist so a day of rejoicing and celebrating the good in life is not difficult. Some years are not as bountiful as others. Some years are more challenging than others. However Thanksgiving Day is a day to be thankful for what we have and not what we wished that we had or to focus on what we do not have. If for no other reason, being alive is reason to give thanks on Thanksgiving. With life there is hope; hope for a better tomorrow or some day after.

This Thanksgiving I am am thankful for so many things that I have. As much as I am thankful for what I have, I am thankful for the many blessings that I have had and some that I no longer can enjoy.

As much as what we have today brings us joy and contentment, it was yesterday and our past that have brought us to today. It is our past that has prepared us for today and for all the days to come.

Today, as for all days, I am thankful for the love, experiences, and guidance that I have received from family and friends who are no longer in this world. They have passed on and I can no longer enjoy their presence. They affected my life in ways that are impossible to quantify or for me to express into words. Shared experiences with them taught me and assisted me in developing my personal values. The memories of shared holidays, vacations, celebrations, and ordinary days with them remain both a comfort as well as inspiration. The gifts of family, companionship and friendship are reason enough to give thanks today as well as every day. I do not consider myself to be unique in this blessing.

I am thankful for having been raised in a country and time where, at that time, excellent quality free public education was available to everyone. A quality free education is a blessing to be thankful for. Even today in many parts of the world, children do not have access to free quality education.

I am thankful for having been raised in a country where I was free to fail and much more importantly free to succeed to the extent that I, myself, determine. My position and goals in life were not restricted by anyone or any institution. My parent's education, occupation, economic, or social status did not limit my prospects. Today, this is not true for many people even in some Western countries.

I am most thankful for the way that my parents raised me. Too often today, people blame their problems on their parents. They blame their current behavior on their parents. Blaming their parents, to them. absolves them of their individual responsibility and accountability for their own actions. I know that my parents did their very best in raising their family based upon what they knew and could at the time. Should we expect any less or demand anything more? I suspect that most parents do the same.

I was taught manners. Manners and etiquette allow individuals to function, interact and thrive in a society with minimal conflict. Manners and etiquette help to define our value and standing as an individual and to our society. The manners and etiquette that I learned as a child have allowed me to integrate into different cultures easily where I have worked and lived. While these may not be a blessing, they are things that I am thankful for.

I was taught that I was not special. I am not certain how well I learned that lesson. I suspect that most people have not completely learned that lesson well. However I learned to not expect or demand special privileges or preferential treatment. I expect to be treated the same as any other person. An off shoot of this lesson that I was taught throughout my youth was the realization that as an individual I had certain responsibilities to the group. I have the responsibility to not demand that the group conform solely to appease my wishes, practices, comfort level, or beliefs. I just want the freedom to be me and for you to have the freedom to be you. I do not necessarily have to conform but that choice is mine to make and I should be prepared for and accept the consequences.

I was taught that I could have anything that I wanted; as long as I first had the money to pay for it. I was taught and more importantly demonstrated each day. I was taught that anything worth having was worth working for. I was also taught that I wanted something bad enough I would work for it. If I was not willing to work for something, I did not need it. The gift of financial responsibility awareness has been a blessing in the past and hopefully will continue to pay dividends.

Today I am also thankful for my families and friends that are part of my daily life.

I am also content.

More and better possessions will not necessarily make me or anyone else happy or content. Happiness and contentment are a state of mind.

 

It is the longing and preoccupation with what they do not have that prevents so many people from being happy.

I am thankful that I am satisfied with what I have.

 

I am thankful that I am confident that I can have anything that I want if I am willing to wait and work for it.

I am thankful that I know that I do not need everything that I don't have or many of the things that I want.

 

These are trying times in the world today. The economic conditions are serious and intimidating. It is very easy to become overwhelmed about what negative things could happen.

I suspect that, especially in America, people are concerned and preoccupied with what the government can or will do to make things better for them - to solve their problems. Creating and giving away money will be no more of a solution or cure than putting a band aid on a cancerous tumor. It may be aesthetically better for awhile but the problem remains and only worsens.

Expecting others to do things for you and to solve your problems is to set your expectations too high - Who says that they will? What makes you think they want to? What makes you think that they can?

I am thankful that I am confident and convinced that I have the power and ability to solve my problems.

 

One purpose in this blog is to share with the readers how people in other parts of the world live. They are happy and content. They live very differently than people in the western world. Between how we previously lived in America and the way that they currently live, there is a great deal of latitude to be happy.

 

I am living a life in that zone and I am happy.

 

Getting to this point in my life has not been an individual achievement. Many people have influenced and contributed to my evolution to this point.

I am grateful and thankful to all who have taught, influenced, touched, trained and showed me how to be the person that I am today - especially my Mom and Dad.

 

In my travels, I have learned that in Islam, the religion of submission to God and not to man, Muslims do not pray to God for favors for to do so would be to question God's will and who are we to question God's will? I believe that Thanksgiving is a holiday when God is given his due, and not questioned for what he has given or not given to us; a day when we travel along the correct path if but for a short time.

 

My wish for everyone this holiday season is that you too can realize and appreciate the happiness that the opportunities of life provide.

A More Traditional Songkran - 14 April 2553

On Wednesday, 14 April, we got a late start to return to Tahsang Village. I spent much of the early morning finishing up my Federal and State Income Tax returns. Even with not working and not much dividend income, the task of preparing the returns was no simple manner. My accountant in the USA had completed the returns and sent them to me as electronic files. I had to print them, sign them and mail them. The Federal Return was 26 pages long, the State Return was 7 pages long but required that a copy of the Federal return be included. We went out to have copies made and to mail the returns. We got copies made but found out that the Post Office was closed for three days for the Songkran Holiday. We will mail the documents tomorrow. This is a lot of documents for having not to pay any taxes. It must be part of a jobs creation program - complicated rules, and many forms.

We had missed the ritual of pouring water on the hands of the elders in Tahsang Village due to our morning efforts. The picture above was from two years ago. Even without the US tax tasks, we would have missed the ceremony in the village. We could not leave Udonthani prior to 10:00 A.M. because we had to go to the Chinese wholesale market to buy more beer and whiskey, and cigarettes for the family market in the village. With the hot weather, the holidays, and gambling, "Momma" is selling a great deal of those items along with ice. Two days ago the ice distributor in Kumphawapi ran out of ice. Fortunately he was restocked the next day.

Although we had missed the Villagers pouring water on the elderly people, showing respect for the elderly and getting the elderly people's blessing for the New Year, we were obligated to "take care" of the elder members of Duang's family. Songkran is a very important family reunion holiday in Isaan. Leading up to the start of the holiday, the roads are filled with Lao Loum workers returning to their homes in Isaan from the big cities were they work. Our first visit was to the next village to pay respects to Duang's uncle who is in failing health. He is a very important member of the family as well as in the local community. He is a Brahman and performs many of the pre-Buddhist Hindu and Animist rituals. He conducts marriages, and the bai sii rituals. He often leads the people in the merit making rituals involving the Monks.

Duang's son and his girl friend took a small insulated jug and filled it with some cool fresh water along with a bottle of scented soap. They drove over to the village with a bunch of the Tahsang Village relatives. We loaded up our truck with the rest of the relatives, or rather the relatives that broke away from the ongoing three day village dice/roulette game. It didn't matter to me because I had Peelawat, 14 months old, sitting up front with me although he kept trying to shift gears as I drove. We got splashed with water four times by people along the way between the villages.



Duang's Uncle and the other elderly relatives that live in the village were seated upon a raised wood and bamboo platform outside of his home. Everyone gathered around the platform. Donations of money, small yellow candles (birthday cake type), and some garlands were placed on a medium sized metal plate to offer to Duang's uncle. Duang's older sister, who was actually raised by him and his wife, knelt on the platform and offered up the gifts to the assembled elders while the other people, the three younger generations. knelt on the ground before the elders. The younger people all offered "wais", Thai gesture of respect that is very similar to a praying gesture, to the old people. Peelawat was not interested in participating although at 14 months old he has been taught and many times does give wais. Peelawat wanted me to hold him while I photographed the ritual. He also took advantage of me holding him to reach up to strip leaves off of a tree branch to analyze them before tossing them to the wind. I believe that more will be expected of him next year when he will be two years old. Children in Isaan participate at a very early age in the rituals as well as events that define the Lao Loum culture.



After some chanting by the young people and then by the elderly, the young people took turns pouring the scented cool water on the hands of the elderly people with the elderly people giving their blessing and best wishes to each person as they poured the water. Sometimes the young people gently and lovingly poured a little water down the back of the old person. After the elderly had been cared for, some of them poured water gently and lovingly on the backs of the younger people. It was very moving to see the sense of community, dignity, respect and affection being reinforced by all the generations in this ritual.

We returned to Tahsang Village where Peelawat and I stayed in the market while the others went across the main farm road to repeat the ritual with a different group of elderly Aunts and Uncles. The temperature was 41C (105F) with 35% humidity so Peelawat and I minimized our time under the sun. Sitting inside with a fan blowing on us, and sharing ice cubes suited us just fine.


With the Aunts and Uncles taken care, the family focused on Duang's mother and father. All their children and grandchildren and some of their great grandchildren participated in the water pouring ritual along with the money offerings. Duang's father made everyone laugh because he insisted on removing his shirt before the start of the ritual. At the end one of the neighbors, perhaps "mau mau" (drunk) ensured that everyone got splashed with some ice water. It was a good time for all.

I have been asked on more than one occasion about how do they define "poor" people in the Lao Loum culture. It is true that the people do not have many material possessions. They are subsistence farmers with the elderly cared for by their extended families and neighbors. But these people do not measure a person's wealth strictly on their material possessions. To the Lao Loum people being happy, doing "good" and having a "good heart" are important factors in determining a person's wealth. Perhaps it is that we believe we have only one chance to grab the brass ring or to grab all the gusto that we can in this life while they know that if they don't make it this time around there will be another opportunity in another go around. Being content and focusing on their spiritual wealth this time around increases their possibility of success sooner than later.

They may not have much. But they have each other - far more than many other "rich" people.

New Truck Blessing

We were up at 5:30 A.M. this morning in order to get out to the Wat near Tahsang Village in time to offer food to the Monks. After making merit, our truck was going to be blessed by one of the senior Monks.

On our way out to the village we stopped in Kumphawapi to buy some ready made food from the morning market. We then stopped at Duang's mother's house so that she could join us. Today was a holiday so the roads were not very crowded. Despite it being a holiday, the fields were busy. Farmers were busy harvesting sugar cane, preparing the harvested fields, and planting cassava in the former sugar cane fields. The sugar cane harvest has just started and is limited to small trucks - so far. Later in the harvest which will run well into the new year, large tandem trucks will take over hauling the harvested cane to the large sugar refineries.

Today we drove out to a Wat that I had not been to before. This Wat was set out in the middle of the sugar cane fields towards the flood plain. Duang said that it was very old and had been there for 100 years. As we drove along the dusty dirt road towards the Wat, we came upon a road crew. Local villagers - men, women and children were busy trimming the heavy vegetation from the side of the road and were busy - very busy filling in some of the many ruts in the road. Later men were in the trees cutting off branches. Some red, white and blue pennant flagging nothing to do with any delayed 4th of July celebration, they are also Thailand's national colors)lined parts of the narrow road to the Wat. Later I found out from Duang that the next day, representatives from one of the local bus companies were going out to the Wat to present a check to the Abbot to help support the Wat.

The Wat was very primitive but very impressive. It's beauty was in its simplicity. The grounds were very well maintained and filled with trees, flowers, and plants. The buildings were plain wood and cement block. Situated throughout the grounds were wood cages with various types of birds in them. Some of the birds may have been talking birds but I couldn't really tell - they may have been speaking Lao but don't know it well enough to distinguish it from normal bird squawking.

The entire grounds had been swept with brooms. It was more of a nature preserve than a Wat. It was very peaceful.

Some women were preparing the offerings of food for the Monks. Duang gave them our offerings and she went to a smaller building where there a senior Monk. he appeared to be the Abbot. Two other women were there to make merit. The elderly Monk was quite a sociable person. He talked and talked. It was obvious to me that it was small talk rather than any spiritual lecture or dissertation. Later it all made sense to me - the Monk's last name was Veeboonkul - Duang's family name. The Abbot was one of her many uncles! I often tease her about how many relatives that she has around here - today she had the joke on me! This also explained why her mother accompanied us out to the Wat.



















After the Monk finally finished with the normal merit making ritual, he started the ritual to bless our new truck. Once again the ritual was more of an incorporation of Animist beliefs and practices than a true Buddhist ceremony. After having me open the truck front doors, the Monk walked around the truck counter clockwise while carrying a small plate with thin yellow candles on it, an amulet that we had received before from another Monk, and a small statue of some sacred religious person, a Buddhist ornament that we had purchased at a "special" Wat in anticipation of having a vehicle, small laurel type leaves, and some money on it. He also had a hunk of cotton rope with him. As he walked around the truck he was very carefully checking out the vehicle almost to the point of giving the truck the "evil eye".



Upon completing his circumambulation of the truck, Duang's Uncle climbed in and sat behind the wheel. He seemed to be imitating driving the truck as he was chanting so softly that I could not hear him. Upon completing his incantations, the Monk took the cotton rope and wrapped it around the steering column at the bas where it penetrates the firewall. At this point, the ritual hit a technical snag. The cotton rope was not long enough to tie around the steering column. As much as he tried, he could not bind the strings together. He called out to one of his lay assistants who rummaged through the small building before he finally came to the truck with some colored cotton strings that are used for Bai Saii rituals (binding the 32 spirits inside a person's body to ensure good luck and health). These strings did the job just fine - completing the loop and binding the spirits of the truck. I was busy photographing and filming the ritual.

The Monk then honked the horn of the truck three sets of three distinct and LOUD honks - completely taking me by surprise - much to Duang's amusement. Having scared the bajeepers out of me and most likely the spirits, the Monk pulled out a magic marker and drew three symbols on the steering wheel hub. He then focused on the headliner above the driver's seat. He seemed to be either praying or meditating as he drew a complex graphic on the roof above the driver's seat. I had seen this done before but the Monks had used a chalk paste. I surmise that Magic Marker is a concession to modern times and an effort at greater permanence. The Monk hung the two flower garlands that Duang had purchased from the Kumphawapi Market from the truck's rear view mirror. Having completed with the vehicle's interior, the Monk exited the truck and had Duang, Duang's mother, and me kneel on the ground in front of the truck. He grabbed a fairly large bucket of water along with a coarse reed brush. He circumambulated the truck three times sprinkling the truck as well as us with the water from the bucket using the coarse brush.

The ritual was now completed and the truck had been properly prepared for our use.

Back at Duang's mother's home, Duang glued the statue, amulet, and Buddhist ornament to the dashboard to ensure that the protection continues.