17 September 2008 - Spirit Houses

Spirit Houses - San Phra Phum or House Warming Part II
Wednesday, 17 September 2551 (2008)

We got up this morning to what I thought would be a normal "catch-up" day for settling into the new house. I had fixed the issue with the drain for the washing machine last night so we were good to go on washing one week of piled up laundry.

We had two loads completed by 8:00 AM.

At 8:30 a pickup truck pulled up in the rain to the front of the house. It was Duang's uncle the shaman, who I now know is actually a "Brahmin priest". Duang had mentioned yesterday that he was coming over today to finalize where to put the spirit houses for our home.

If she mentioned it, I did not understand that this is no simple matter.

Along with her uncle were six other relatives bearing gifts of food - a cooked duck, a cooked chicken, sticky rice (kao knieouw), chilies, raw pork, raw beef, fresh corn on the cob (kaoput) and all kinds of green leafy things.

Out came some of the 26 woven reed mats (saht) that we had received as house gifts last week. Rather than set them on the floor inside the house as we would do in the USA, Duang set them outside on the concrete pavement of the carport. Loam Lao people prefer to cook and eat outdoors.

Duang's uncle and another man looked over the front yard and selected the proper place to set up the spirit houses after a great deal of contemplation and deliberation - the northeast corner of the property. The rain stopped at that point - believe it or not. I saw it stop! The other man sat down with a cutting board and knife to prepare the beef and pork. The pork was prepared to be cooked. The beef was chopped up very finely to a paste consistency. Chilies are added to the paste so that it can be eaten raw with small ball of sticky rice. The women scattered about to perform their chores. Two headed to the kitchen to cook food. Two women sat on the patio and were preparing small items of food.

I helped carry the concrete blocks to the area where the spirit houses would be placed. A 5 foot by 5 foot raised area about 8 inches high was built with the blocks. While this was going on, the two cocktail tables from the living room were placed outside in front of the two disassembled spirit houses.

As the people continued with their work, I realized these tables would serve as a type of altar. Four ceramic lotus flower cups each with a yellow candle were placed on one of the tables along with some flowers and leaves. Two incense holders made out of a ceramic bowls filled with Isaan sticky rice (uncooked) were added to the altar along with 12 sticks of burning incense. The altar also had two plates with small bunches of tiny white flowers and a handful of small yellow unlit candles.

The other altar had the duck, chicken, fish soup complete with head, betel leaves, and a large platter of fresh fruits along with two small ornate metal goblets filled with water.

Everyone got involved with placing small items on and inside of the spirit houses. It was quite an involved operation. It kind of reminded me of decorating a Christmas tree - everything had to be exactly and precisely placed in the proper location. The degree of exactness, precision, and proper location was subject to a great deal of discussion, debate, and some trial and error - just like decorating a tree at Christmas. Once there was agreement, three chairs were brought out and placed in front of the altars facing the spirit houses.

Duang's uncle had changed his shirt to a fine white garment along with a white towel draped over his shoulder. Through hand signals I was placed in the middle chair with Duang to my left and her uncle seated to my right. The four candles were lit and the ceremony started.

Duang's uncle read some prayers out of a notebook of hand written words. He had previously requested that Duang write our names in Thai and given to him. At three points in the ceremony, our names were spoken - I know because he couldn't pronounce my name and Duang helped him! There didn't seem to be any problem with that.

One of the water goblets and one of the incense holders was placed on each of the spirit houses.

After the ceremony, we all sat down on the "sahts" and had a nice meal of Kao Lao (Lao food).

One of the men after completing his meal, mixed up some mortar and filled in the cracks between the blocks and skim coated the top surface of the platform with it.

The women all pitched in and cleaned up. Duang's daughter in law had arrived earlier to help out. While all the preparations and ceremony were taking place she hung out the two loads of laundry that we never got to earlier in the morning. She then proceeded to clean the entire house. As I have written before, I am amazed at the communal spirit and lifestyle of the Isaan people.

OK - so what about these spirit houses?

Spirit houses (san phra phum) are shrines to the animist spirits. The houses are found throughout Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia. The spirit house is built like a miniature Buddhist temple mounted on a pillar or platform. They are meant to be the homes of the land spirits.

Spirit worship referred to as "Animism" in Thailand goes back to the migration of the Thai people from northern Vietnam. Animism predated Buddhism in Thailand and Buddhism developed side by side with Animism in Thailand. The two religions are very intricately interwoven and many practices today in Buddhism are actually Animism beliefs and rituals.
The spirit houses are a shrine where offerings of food, fruit, flowers, candles, incense, water, soft drinks as well as whiskey are made.

The san phra phum provide a dwelling for the wandering guardian spirits for the buildings and areas of land. The spirits can cause problems and suffering if they are not kept happy. There are spirit houses at homes, shopping centers, businesses, government buildings, factories, oil refineries - everywhere but at a Wat. The spirit houses are not part of Buddhism.

The spirits are kept happy by offering them gifts frequently. People believe that the spirits can influence coming events, grant wishes, and keep people healthy. I have seen the daily ritual of offering candles, incense, fruit and whiskey made at some Go-Go bars prior to opening.

The land spirit expects to be informed if a building is to be modified, or built as well if a business is to be started. For a major refinery project two years ago, as part of the management team, I participated in a formal offering ceremony at the spirit houses at each of the four corners of the refinery for the official commencement of construction. It is quite common in Thailand for large companies to conduct formal and somewhat lavish offering ceremonies. Not to be cruel but - there has been no mortgage or investment bank crisis over here so perhaps they are on to something.

The inside of the spirit house is decorated with small ceramic figurines representing the spirits. There are also figures of elephants, horses or maybe they are cows, servants, dancers, candlesticks and vases to hold incense or flowers.

There are nine guardian spirits that offer different protections. The guardian spirit for houses is named Phra Chaimongkhon and is very powerful. He watches over and protects the home. As an example of the interweaving of Animism and Buddhism, when we lived in Pattaya we often went to a Buddhist temple named "Wat Chaimongkhon".

The guardian spirit for gardens and orchards is named Phra Than Thirat. He watches over and protects the natural surroundings, gardens, yards, and orchards of the Thai family.

Thais build permanent spirit houses for these two guardian spirits. That is why we had two spirit houses installed today for our home.

The gang piled into the pickup truck and headed back to Tahsang Village by noon with Duang's uncle carrying back his satchel of hammer, fish net, and hammock that had stayed here over three days.

Our normal "catch up" day became another cherished memory as well as learning experience for me. In that regard I guess it was normal day.