Songkran Has Started

Songkran, Thai New Years, is officially April 13 to April 16.

But this is Thailand and things are not always what they appear to be or are supposed to be. So it is with Songkran. Songkran here in Isaan started on Friday 9 April.

Friday was a busy day for us. It started with me getting a haircut - relatively easy task of moving my chair from the computer desk to outside underneath our carport for Duang to cut my hair. After showers, we drove out to the village where Peelawat, our 14 month old grandson, lives. Duang and I were going out to a small village where her "sister" lives. A celebration complete with a Mahlam Lao Show was being held to "take care" of Buddha. Buddha in this sense of the word meant the Monks. "Take care" meant to give the Monks offerings. For me, the details and nuances really didn't matter. There was going to be a show and an opportunity to document another aspect of village life in Isaan.

Duang has one biological sister - an older sister. We were going to visit a younger "sister". Like I have written before and will undoubtedly write again things are not always what they appear to be. I had met this "sister" at our wedding but I had the impression that Duang and she were very good friends - like sisters. It is only recently that I understood that their relationship is closer than being very good friends. When the woman was born, her mother was unable and unwilling to care for her baby. Duang's mother was still nursing so she took in and fed the baby. In Isaan, this type of arrangement is not all that uncommon. Lao Loum people have a very strong sense of community and the ravages of poverty often dictates alternative life styles especially for the welfare of babies.

After picking up Peelawat and Duang's daughter we drove out to Nong Boydan(?) Village to have lunch with Duang's "sister". Lunch was very good and there was plenty of food. There was a surprise. For some reason Peelawat decided to take care of me. His mother gave him a small piece of hot dog, he took a bite and then offered it to me by putting it up to my mouth for me to take a bite. This behaviour continued all day long. Peelawat ensured that his grandfather had food and drink. He was given a small bottle of yogurt milk to drink through a small straw. After each sip, he gave to me to take my sip. We also shared a bottle of soy milk together. I was given a plate of mango as part of lunch. Peelawat enjoys sitting in my lap so he had access to the mango. He took the fork from the plate, stabbed a piece of mango and put the fork up to my mouth. He ended up feeding me the entire plate of mango. Later when it was time to go to the festival, Duang put powder on his face, arms, legs and neck. People in Isaan use powder to keep cooler and ward off prickly heat. You will always see babies and children with white powder spread all over their bodies. During Songkran the practice is expanded to many more adults, cars, trucks, and motorbikes. Besides splashing water on people to cool them during Songkran, people douse others with scented powder. After Peelawat was all powdered up to go out to the festival, he took the container of powder and put some powder on his hand. Gently he rubbed his hand on my cheek and neck to get me ready to go out into the sun. We all laughed and joked about Peelawat's caring for me and only me that day. There is a very strong tradition of caring for and respecting elders here in Isaan but at 14 months old, Peelawat's behavior was unexpected. His behavior was also wonderful entertainment.

We went to the local Wat were a festival was being held to raise money for the Wat. There were booths selling food and refreshments. People had set their sahts on the ground in the scattered areas of shade throughout the Wat grounds. In one of the buildings where people had hung talisman to be blessed, women with very small children and babies sat inside to avoid the glaring sun as well as some of the 100F (38C) heat. We sat there for awhile before checking out the mouse game of chance that I wrote about yesterday.



The Mahlam Lao Show was going on and we recognized the khene player and lead female performer from some of the shows that Duang's brother puts on. This appears to be the season for shows. The performers live pretty much in the same neighborhood in central Udonthani and act as independent contractors to the leaders of shows. The same is true for the dancers.


Duang and Peelawat went off to seek some shade as I wandered around photographing the festival. The people were all very friendly and thoroughly enjoying themselves. A couple of the Kathoeys (Ladyboys) were eager to have their picture taken which I obliged their requests. They were getting a little bit annoying, as drunks can often be, until Duang showed up with a glass of Coke for me. Having marked her territory, so to speak, the Ladyboys were no longer a problem for the remainder of the afternoon. After awhile I looked down and saw Peelawat at my side. He looked up into my eyes and raised both his arms - his signal to pick him up. According to Duang it was his third attempt to be with me in front of the stage. I was busy the previous two occasions and had not noticed him. I traded the camera for Peelawat and we watched the singing and dancing up close. He loved the show and excitement. He provided some entertainment of his own by showing off some of his dance moves. He also did a great job of handing money to the performers as tokens of appreciation for their work.

A big part of the Mahlam Lao Show ritual is for members of the audience to walk up to the edge of the stage. The performer will go to the edge of the elevated stage, squat down, give the Thai gesture of respect (wai), and accept the audience members offering of money, flowers, garlands, and sometimes paper chains similar to what we used to make in elementary school for Christmas decorations. Some members of the audience will offer glasses of beer or whiskey. Later as the show continues and more and more beer along with whiskey are consumed, the audience will go up to the stage to just hold the hand of the performer and increasingly as time goes on - the dancers. The performers graciously accept the offerings with out missing a beat - high drama, and great entertainment.


Even in this rural location there were plenty of Ladyboys in attendance at the festival. There are supposedly many ways to determine whether or not a person is a real woman or a Ladyboy. Many of these ways are familiar - look for an Adam's apple, size of the hands, size of the feet and so on. In Thailand there is also another way - the size of the breasts. If the breasts are large and full, you can be fairly certain that it is a Ladyboy. I believe that there is also another method - observe the dance moves. The more energetic and enthusiastic the dancing the greater probability the person is a Ladyboy. Ladyboys in Isaan are tolerated quite well and their presence at Mahlam Lao shows adds to the entertainment value of the event. Despite the oppressive heat on Friday, the Ladyboys and others put on impressive dance displays.

Duang became concerned about Peelawat and my safety at the front of the stage so she came forward to have us return with her to the shade of a tree away from the "mosh pit". The high concentration of dancers directly in front of the stage is where the fist fights frequently or more accurately ALWAYS break out. There were no fights Friday while we were there but after we left, there were several fistfights. We have only been to two Mahlam Lao shows were there has not been at least one fight.

Peelawat and I spent the remainder of our time at the show sitting in the relative shade eating shaved ice. After I had drank a glass of Coke, Peelawat grabbed ice out of the glass and ate it. He would then grab a handful for me and place it in my mouth much to every one's amusement. Around 3 P.M. we left for Tahsang Village.

It was on our drive to and from Tahsang Village that the start of Songkran became apparent. At several locations small groups of young children had set up along side of the narrow country road. The children were all wet from their efforts to splash water passing vehicles. They were having a great time smiling, laughing, and dancing around either filling a barrel with a small hose or flinging water from small plastic buckets. Such joy needs to be shared in my opinion. As I approached the groups I would feign panic about the possibility of our truck getting wet. This only encouraged the children's efforts to throw their water. For some groups, I would stop the truck about 50 feet from the children. This confused them and often they would throw their water at a vehicle passing in the opposite direction. As we passed the children standing with their empty buckets I honked the horn several times and waved. Duang would just laugh and tell me that I was crazy just like the children. I repeated this stunt and stopped 50 feet from a group of children. They were completely confused until finally a little girl about 4 years old sweetly motioned to me to pass by and indicated that they would not throw water. I could not help but smile. She had spoiled my fun but given me a very nice memory for the start of Songkran 2553 (2010).

You Can Bet On That ...

Gambling is illegal here in Thailand.

But as former US President, Bill Clinton, is quoted "It depends on what the meaning of the word 'is' is", here in Thailand it depends on what the meaning of the word 'gambling' is. Just as it is most likely in the United States and else where in the world, it also depends on where and how the word is applied. Just as it makes a difference if the word is applied to conduct in the White House or in your house, there is a difference here in Thailand as to where and how the word 'gambling' is applied.

There are no casinos here in Thailand. There are casinos across the border in Laos, officially known as the Lao People's Democratic Republic. It seems rather ironic that a one party political system would refer to themselves as "Democratic" or a "Republic" but I guess to some extent we are all culpable for the names we selected or prefer to use to describe or to identify ourselves. It is almost as if selecting the proper word absolves us of all behaviors, omissions, and transgressions. It is also ironic that a Communist state would be home for gambling casinos though my understanding is that Lao citizens can not gamble at the casinos.

There are also casinos in Malaysia. Malaysia is a secular Muslim state so guards at the bottom of the mountain going up to the casino check the identity of the people traveling the road to ensure that no Muslims are going to go up and gamble. I have been to the casino in Malaysia - sort of. I can not describe what it is like to gamble there. My understand that you are not given free drinks while you gamble. The casino also said that I could not gamble without wearing a tie. They rented ties for people who arrive without one of their own for $7.00 USD. That was the last straw for me ... I rationalize the loss at the tables as the cost of a night's entertainment largely offset by the free alcohol and free shows. To charge rent for a tie in order to "take" my money and not getting me drunk or at least feeling better about losing was too much for me to accept. We ate dinner at the casino and spent the night in a naturally cool room in the Genting Highlands high above the hot and humid remaining regions of the rest of Malaysia. The highlight of the stay was to open the window and door of our room and watch the clouds pass through.

Back to Thailand and more specifically here in Isaan - gambling is illegal. "Games of Chance" conducted on Buddhist temple grounds are acceptable. We have attended numerous festivals at Wats over the past three years. The festivals were to celebrate religious holidays and sometimes were to raise funds to support the Wat. At every celebration there were "Games of Chance" where people paid money to have the opportunity to win a prize. The games of chance are very similar to games that you would encounter at county or state fairs back in the USA. People pay a small amount of money to throw thee darts at inflated balloons - three punctured balloons with three dart throws earns a "prize". People pay money to shoot air rifles at moving targets - so many hits out of so many shots earns a "prize". People pay money to pluck a small plastic floating duck out of a big pool of water with the number written on the bottom of the floating duck corresponding to a "prize" on the rack. For people who are not into the athleticism required for shooting, throwing, or netting, you can pay your money, select a short piece of plastic drinking straw. Inside the straw is a piece of rolled up paper with a number on it. The number corresponds to a prize on display.

I have seen backyard card games amongst neighbors. I have seen dice games outside of funeral rituals. I have seen money changing hands at gunpowder rocket launching competitions. I have seen rocket launches delayed until the "financial arrangements" were acceptable. Like I read in a tourist pamphlet from Laos where they proudly proclaimed themselves as " a democracy with one political party", I can report that gambling is illegal in Thailand. The dichotomy of the Laotian and Thai statements add to the rich fabric of life here in Southeast Asia. It is the nuances and juxtaposition of what is supposed to be and what is reality here that makes life interesting as well as entertaining.

I have seen many "games of chance" (remember gambling is illegal) and yesterday at the Wat in the middle of no where - here in Isaan, I saw a new "game of chance". This game involved a circular arena constructed out of recycled cardboard boxes and bamboo. There were 24 pieces of bamboo penetrating the base of the cardboard ring with a number written above each penetration. In the center of the approximately 12 foot diameter arena, there was an inverted translucent plastic Tupperware type container. A string was attached to the container and ran through a loop to a table outside of the ring where prizes were on display.

At the start of each game, a man went around the arena and sold a piece of paper with one of the numbers from 1 to 24 written on it. The price for each ticket was 5 baht - roughly $0.15 USD. He had no problem quickly selling the 24 tickets for each game. People of all ages were 3 to 4 deep around the cardboard walls of the arena eager to participate. Once the tickets were all sold, there was a announcement and some hype as another man pulled on the string to lift the inverted container revealing a mouse. Now unrestrained the mouse, ran around the arena looking for a way out. Eventually to the accompaniment of yells, shouts, and incantations in Isaan (a Lao dialect) plus some spirited slapping of hands against the cardboard walls, the mouse would run into one of the bamboo penetrations. The number above the selected penetration determined the "winner" of that game. The prize was a small plastic bucket filled with small household products such as soap, candles, talcum powder, small boxes of juice or soy milk. I later found out that the prize cost about 60 Baht so a profit of 60 baht (roughly $2.00 USD) was realized from each running of the game. All profits were going to be donated to the Wat.

The mice were not professionals or pure bred mice. They were typical field mice that are found in the rice and sugar cane fields here in Isaan. I am certain that they can also be found in many of the village homes. Most of the mice used in the game had long tails so that when they entered one of the bamboo tubes a portion of their tail remained outside to be used to extract the mouse from the tube. However one mouse did not have a very long tail. Just as in the Americans With Disabilities Act, this mouse was not excluded from participating in the game. Reasonable accommodation was provided which allowed this mouse to participate. A short piece of blue plastic string was tied to the mouse's hind leg which was used to extract the mouse from its selected tube.

After the running of each game, the mouse was placed into a covered 5 gallon plastic bucket and a new "fresh" mouse was placed under the inverted container in the middle of the arena.

I have heard stories and seen some movie scenes on some the odd things that people would bet on. This was the first time that I had seen mice involved in a game of chance.



You can bet on that ... even in Thailand but it is not gambling! It is a game of chance for a good cause.

New Gallery Available - "Lanten New Years"

A new photo gallery, "Lanten New Years", is available for viewing on my photography website via the following link.

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Travel/Lanten-New-Years-Celebration/11757479_5WFfn#830137405_RbrdP

The event was celebrated on 31 January of this year rather than the widely celebrated 01 January. I am at a loss to explain why the Lanten New Year was at the end of the month with the Khmu and Hmong celebrating New Years the previous month. Chinese New Years and Vietnam's "Tet" which are also new year celebrations were in February. Thai New Years, Songkran, will be celebrated in the middle of April.

Although I can not explain the nuances as to scheduling aspects of the various new year celebrations (lunar calender, end of harvest, end of dry season, Gregorian calender ...), I accept and definitely enjoy all of the celebrations - some of the many pleasures available here in Southeast Asia.

Giving Thanks for Granted Favors

Here in Isaan spirituality plays a very important role in the day to day activities and rituals of the Lao Loum people. Many of my blogs describe my experiences as well as observations contributable to the amalgamation of Buddhism, Hindu, and Animist beliefs here in Northeast Thailand. The life of the Lao Loum people is anchored and validated by their faith.

A big aspect of Lao Loum belief is requesting Divine intervention into their daily life. People make offerings and pray for favors such as obtaining money, getting a job, finding a spouse, recovery from physical ailments and all the other reasons that many people in other places in the world pray for. I have witnessed Go-Go girls making merit prior to performing on stage. Performers in my brother-in-law's Mahlam Lao shows make an offering prior to the start of their performance. In some entertainment venues, a wood or stone linga (phallus) is placed in a shrine area to solicit good luck and fortune for the business and workers. This object is part of a small shrine, generally ascribed to being Buddhist, at which incense is burned, candles are burned, soft drinks, glasses of water, shots of alcohol, and garlands are offered. It is somewhat complicated although the shrine is mostly attributed to Buddhism, in fact most of the elements as well as ritual is derived from prior Animist, Brahman, and Hindu beliefs.

The role of spirits in their daily life is often manifested to Lao Loum people in their dreams. Dreams and the interpretation of dreams is a serious concern to the inhabitants of Isaan. There is a government sponsored daily lottery in Thailand with many of the numbers selected by people being based upon their recent dreams. Often the interpretation of dreams leads people to pray to counter the dream's phophetized future. Often Monks are consulted to determine what the future may hold for an individual. Reading of palms, interpretation of wax drippings into water, consulting tables of numbers, card reading and shaking of numbered strips of bamboo or plastic to obtain a prediction of the future, are all utilized to help provide direction and assurance to one's present life. As a Westerner, I find this interesting but not very plausible. As a person who has lived here for approximately four years and with intimate knowledge of some specific predictions, I still don't believe in the process but I am respectful of the beliefs.

All this leads us to our task for 01 April here in Udonthani. A year ago on a rainy night in June, Duang and I went to a special shrine here in Udonthani. The shrine is located at the north end of city center at the boudary of Nong Prajak Park. The shrine is dedicated to the the founder of Udonthani, Prince Prajak. It is a very popular shrine for the local people. There are hundreds if not thousands, of animal statues placed at the shrine in appreciation for answered prayers. Other offerings such a coconuts, food, soft drinks, along with garlands are also widely spread around the small shrine. I was leaving for the United States the next day to attend my divorce hearing. At the time, I thought that the purpose of the visit and the offerings was to seek good luck and safety on my journey. On 31 of March, Duang had a dream related to her incantations of that evening. When she awoke on April 1, she realized that her prayer that I would choose return to her and remain in Thailand had been granted but that she had not made an offering in recognition and thanksgiving.

We went to a specialty shop that sells concrete animals and figurines for the purposes of making offerings at shrines. Duang purchased an elephant and a zebra as well as a couple of human figurines. The elephant and the zebra were each about two feet long and one foot high. The cost was roughly $15 USD total. I am somewhat familiar with the idea behind offering a statue of an elephant. The elephant is a sacred symbol in Thailand with origins for this going back to Brahman and Hindu beliefs. I am at a loss to explain the significance in offering a zebra statue. At the shrine there are also many horse statues for which I also can not explain either the significance or reason.

Duang and her brother made the offering while I kept busy taking some photographs.

New Photographs Added - "Isaan Go-Go Girls"

Thirty-three new photographs from the Song Poo Day celebration have been added to the gallery "Isaan Go-Go Girls"

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/People/Isaan-Go-Go-Girls/8185157_q4YxR#826377375_BYvud

Song Poo Day - 2010 (2553)

Tuesday was Song Poo Day in Tahsang Village. I have had some difficulty over the past three years understanding exactly what Song Poo Day is about. At first I thought it was to commemorate one of Thailand's greatest poets. I then thought that it marked the official end of the Songkran (Thai New Years) holiday in April. Well this year, Duang threw me a curve ball when she informed me that Songpoo Day was Tuesday, 30 March. Since Songkran starts in the middle of April, my latest theory on the purpose of Song Poo Day was invalidated. I asked Duang what we would do for Song Poo Day. She told me that all people go to take care of Buddha and put water on Buddha. This is exactly what we have done for the past two years during Songkran or Thai New Years.

During Songkran, in April, people return to their homes to pay respect to the elderly people and people of recognized higher status by pouring cool or cold scented water over their hands to help them deal with the high temperatures at the end of our dry season. Sometimes a little bit of the water is sprinkled on the neck or back to help cool the person off. Typically some scented powder is also respectfully applied as a cooling aid. During Songkran the Buddha statues are also washed with water. These are the traditional rituals of Songkran. Just as with the rituals associated with Christmas, the rituals and intent of Songkran have been secular hijacked. The traditional rituals remain and are widely practiced but are overwhelmed by hordes of people throwing water at each other and any and all vehicles of conveyance that enters within their range. There are skirmishes tantamount to roving water wars along the streets of the cities. Even in out of the way places in the middle of nowhere throughout Thailand you will encounter groups of small children with a 55 gallon barrel of water patiently waiting for someone or something to pass so that can toss water at. There is one infamous story during one Songkran, a Bangkok fire truck was commandeered by civilians and used against the crowds. While in Maehongson during a Songkran, Duang and I witnessed a fire truck spraying people with water but it was being operated by the firemen!

My discussion with Duang did little to clarify my understanding of what Song Poo Day was all about. It had become time to seek outside help. Duang suggested that we call our good friend who has provided translation services in the past for us. We called her and Duang had to explain what Song Poo Day was all about in Lao so that I could be told in English. Apparently Song Poo Day is celebrated only in Isaan, an apparent Lao Loum practice. Perhaps the reason for Song Poo Day is to focus solely on the washing of the Buddha statues and the associated merit making rituals. Oh yea - it also is the opportunity for the local community to come together and have a big party! The actual date for Song Poo Day in Tahsang Village is set by the Abbot of the local Wat after consulting the moon and stars, wax droppings in water, and other measures employed to tell the future.

We returned to Tahsang Village early in the morning to participate in the merit making ritual of offering food to the Monks. Many of the villagers were already at the Wat when we arrived at 7:30 A.M. We participated in the typical morning merit making ritual.

After offering food to the Monks, the people busied themselves preparing for the day's celebration. Some children were busy filling small plastic bags with water from a large clay pot used to collect rain water during the rainy season. Yellow "dawkkhun"(?) blossoms were added to the individual bags as well as to the water in the clay pot. These flowers are now in full bloom. These flowers are referred to as "King's Flowers" because the King was born on a Saturday which in Buddhism has yellow as its color of the day. The flowers are large clusters hanging from trees throughout Thailand. The children's mother had large bunches of the flowers and was busy spreading them around the Buddha statues set upon the low wood shelf that I wrote about in my last blog. Other people were occupied setting up their little booths from which they passed out food and drinks that they had donated to the celebration. At the far end of the grounds, roadies from Duang's youngest brother's show were getting out of their hammocks where they had slept the night. They had to put the minor finishing touches on the stage for the day's Mahlam Lao show. One of the highlights of the celebration was his scheduled 6 hour show.

Soon the performers for the show arrived. I went back stage to photograph the girls putting on the make-up. After awhile I was joined by our 13 month old grandson, Peelawat. He was quite content to sit on my lap while I was photographing. To keep him entertained, or rather to stop him from staring at the girls, I taught him how to have fun with sticks, dirt, and hands. Duang came and relieved me of babysitting duties so I returned to the main area where people had started to pour water on the Buddha statues.

There was also a procession of the villagers around the outdoor statues. The people circled the area three times and were carrying a "money tree" created from a banana stalk. Split slivers of bamboo with paper money inserted between them are stuck into the banana stalk to create a "Money Tree" which is offered to the Monks in a merit making ritual. Three locally crafted gunpowder rockets were also carried around in the procession.

Around 10:00 A.M. the Mahlam Lao show started. After three songs, the show stopped as the first two of the three rockets were launched. All three were supposed to launched in succession but technical difficulties were encountered in launching the third rocket. After a wait of five minutes during which the ignitor was replaced, the last rocket was successfully launched. The number three has a great deal of religious significance in that it represents "Buddha", "Buddha's teachings", and the "Buddhist Religious Community". After the successful last rocket, a man behind me set off a "Whizzer" firework from one of the columns of the Bot that is under construction. "Whizzer" fireworks are a flat spinning fireworks that makes a squealing sound as it shoots high into the sky. At its apogee it explodes in a large bang. They are also utilized during Monk Ordination, Wedding, and Funeral Processions to keep the evil spirits away. Well this firework was fired off too late. The evil spirits had already gotten to it. The firework misfired and rather than shooting straight and high into the sky, it shot off low forcing me to duck and landed inside the back of the truck where some of the show equipment was located along with one of the roadies. The firework landed on a heavy blanket and started a smoldering fire. The roadie grabbed the firework just as it exploded. He covered his face and dropped to the bed of the truck. I didn't want to do it but since I had been not drinking like most of the villagers and since I know more about first aid than they do, I ran over to the truck to assist the roadie. He fortunately had only a small burn on his arm and soon was joking about the incident. With that excitement out of the way the party and show started back up.

Just like in America the show started without much audience participation. Despite the driving beat of the music, the gyrations of the dancers, and ribald antics of the performers, people just sat and politely watched. After about two hours the effects of all the alcohol from beer and whiskey drinking kicked in. The young bucks moved up to the area in front of the stage. Soon they were having their dance competition in sort of an informal mosh pit. Further back underneath the large shade trees women were standing up and dancing. After awhile they were joined in dancing by some of the men. Eventually they were joined by the only foreigner in attendance. Although he had not been drinking, one of his in-laws had the band play his favorite song - a song that can not be listened to without dancing - dancing Lao style. The song is about eating fresh water snails, one of the staples of the Lao Loum diet here in Isaan but the name for fresh water snails is also a double entendre for a part of the female anatomy. It is the number one party song around here and a sure way of getting people up and dancing.




I wandered around photographing the show from different angles. I came upon an empty whiskey bottle and from past experience I knew that I needed to give it to one of the policemen in the area. Empty bottles are removed as part of a disarmament program. Empty bottles end up getting thrown or used during fights. Later I came upon an empty beer bottle next to a group of guys but far from a policeman. I picked it up and placed it in a box along with the other empties. I pantomimed to the men that they were not to throw the bottle or break it over anyones's head. They thought that it was hilarious and offered me a drink. I declined - there are too many roadblocks around now with police checking for alcohol among other things.

We had a great time watching the show and sitting with friends and family. Around 2:30 the sun and heat got to be too much and I indicated to Duang that we should go home. On our drive back to Udonthani, I indicated to Duang how wonderful the day had been, how much fun everyone had, and mentioned that the Tahsang Villagers had been so well behaved. Duang said "Yes Tahsang Village and Non Mahka Village good. No pompain (No complain) Not like Nong Daeng Village - No good. People drink too much want boxing all the time."

We were home no more than 15 minutes when Duang got a phone call. Some Nong Daeng villagers had shown up at the show and there were some fights, fireworks thrown and Police had fired some shots in the air. Fifteen minutes later she got a call that the narrow road to Nong Daeng Village was blocked with people and Police. There were some reports of people with guns. Nothing developed further and we joked about it was good that Duang listened to her husband. In the past it has been Duang who told me when it was time to leave because of violence. She didn't cut me much slack though and reminded me that I had to listen to her too.

So of all the shows that we have been to during the past three years, the number of shows without a fistfight or more remains at one. I thought we had gotten to two on Tuesday but the law of averages or probability prevailed so the count remains at "one".

The Night Before Songpoo

It was the night before Songpoo and call kinds of creatures were stirring throughout Tahsang Village ...

Monday night, 29 March, was the night before Songpoo Day here in Isaan. There was a full moon (duangchan) on 30 March so there was close to a full moon on Monday night. It was determined that because of the imminent start of Songpoo Day as well as the state of the moon, that a special, once a year, religious ritual would be conducted at the Buddhist Wat that is located outside of Tahsang Village.

Tahsang Village is a small Lao Loum village here in Isaan which has two Wats, (Buddhist Temples) for the benefit of the villagers. One temple is located inside of the village limits and the second temple is located outside of the village on the edge of flood plain/swamp that is accessed by a narrow rough dirt road through the village sugar cane fields and rice paddies.

We have attended rituals and celebrations at both of the temples over the past three years, but Duang favors the Monks at the "outside" Wat. Her preference has something to do with religious practices and behaviors. I don't get involved in those types of issues but if I had to choose it would be the "outside" Wat. My choice has nothing do with religious practices. I would prefer the "outside" Wat because it is the temple where "Rocketman" resides. "Rocketman" is a Monk that supervises the construction and launching of Tahsang Village's gunpowder rockets. For me he appears to be a larger than life character and I always enjoy my visits with him.

Duang and I arrived in Tahsang Village with a load of water, soft drinks, and snacks for the Monks as well as the villagers for the evening ritual and for Songpoo the next day. We stopped at Duang's parent's home to pick up our 13 month old grandson, Peelawat and Duang's mother for the drive out to the Wat.

The Wat was filled with people of all ages, chickens, and some dogs scurrying about. Many of the Wat's Buddha statues had been relocated to a temporary low wood shelf surrounding the ruins, seem to be ancient to me, of a previous Wat on the site. I have seen previous ruins in Chiang Rai area and they were listed as being from the 1400's. The purpose of placing the statues outside was to prepare for Songpoo Day. On Songpoo Day, villagers as part of their merit making ritual pour water over the statues to wash and cool them.

On Monday night many people were occupied setting up booths and stalls for the next day's celebration. Most of the booths were to be used to distribute donated soft drinks and food during the Songpoo Day celebration. One booth was already in operation - a sort of "game of chance" booth very similar to booths that we had seen during the past few months. People pay a small sum of money and get a short piece of drinking straw with a piece of rolled up paper inside of it. Once the paper is unrolled, a number is revealed. The number corresponds to a number assigned to many prizes. You win the prize that corresponds to the number on your piece of paper. The profits from the booth are used to support the upkeep of the Wat.

This Wat needs a great deal of support. The Wat's Bot, main worship hall, was a very old rustic cinder block building in need of a great deal of repair. It needed so much repair, that it has been demolished. A new Bot is being constructed. The site of the old Bot has been raised about a meter which is a good idea due to its close proximity to the water. New concrete foundation beams have been installed and the recycled concrete columns from the previous Bot have been set. The project is being performed by donated labor so it is a very slow process.

For the evening ritual, a temporary Bot was constructed. Several canopies, like those used for wedding and funeral celebrations were erected to provide shelter from the sun and remote possibility of rain. The first canopy was dedicated to the Monks and Buddhist statues. The back side of this canopy was sheathed with bright orange fabric to create a wall behind the raised wood platform upon which the Monks would sit. Very fine nylon nets, the type used to capture rice kernels that fall off the sheaves in preparation for threshing, were placed upon the ground beneath all of the canopies. Woven sahts some of them 30 feet (10 meters) long were placed on top of nylon net to create a floor for the worshippers. Just as in permanent Bot structures, people remove their shoes or more likely flip flops upon entering. In the corner of the raised wood platform reserved for the Monks, there were two richly lacquered etagere upon which Bhudda statues were placed. The etageries are often placed in richer people's homes to create a worship area in their home. In front of the statues there were other objects associated with worship and ritual such as candles, vases, flowers, incense holders, and a large pressed metal elaborate bowl.

Upon entering the area, I immediately noticed something new and very different. There was a grid suspended above the area where the worshippers would be seated. The square grid was created using cotton string - cotton string that used to used by meat cutters in older days and refereed to as "butcher's string" At the intersection of the crossing strings, long pieces of vertical drops of cotton string were tied to the elevated grid. The elevated grid was connected to the statues on the etagere with the same type of cotton string. Another cotton string ran from the statues to a ball of string placed on the platform where the Monks would be seated. I had witnessed the string from the statues to the Monks many times before but this was the first time that I had seen a grid of string above the worshippers and the statues. I believe that the use of the cotton strings has more to do with the vestiges of Animist beliefs than Buddhism. Cotton strings are used, sometimes in Bai Sii rituals, to bind the 32 spirits within people to ensure health, wealth, and good luck.

I got to take care of Peelawat during what ended up to be a two hour ritual. That was fine with me. Peelawat is a very good boy who is satisfied to just sit in my lap which still leaves my hands free to take photographs. I show him some of the photos in the screen on the back of the camera which keeps him entertained while he sucks his thumb. We sat up front next to off to the side of the Monk's platform. This was a good place to take photographs and a great location for both Peelawat and me to observe what was going on. I do have to say though that he stares much more than I do.

About one hour into the ritual the worshippers unravelled the vertical strings from the suspended grid and looped the free end of the string around their head. Relatives took care of putting the string around the head of children. As is typical at Lao Loum ceremonies, most of the men sat separate from the women and children. The other aspects of the evening's ritual were familiar to me. Just as when we had our house blessing ritual, Duang's uncle, the Abbot, allowed burning candles to drop wax into a large pressed metal ornate bowl. The shape of the wax that solidifies in the cool water is interpreted by the Monk to determine the future. Since the ritual was rather long, Peelawat got tired, perhaps from the hypnotic chanting in Pali by the Monks and villagers, and without crying decided to take a nap.





I placed him upon the saht in front of me with one of his blankets. He slept very peacefully until Rocketman walked around sprinkling people including me and Peelawat with the water from the large bowl - very similar to sprinkling of Holy Water in Catholic ritual. When the water blessing hit Peelawat he became startled and woke up. I calmed him and reset him upon the saht where he promptly returned to sleep. When Rocketman returned on his second pass to bless everyone, he had a big grin and seemed like he was going to get Peelawat and me once again. I said "No, the baby is sleeping" He laughed along with everyone else because he was only joking - apparently Peelwat and I only needed the one blessing!



At the end of the two hour ritual, people cut the vertical cotton strings and brought them up to the platform to have either the Abbot or Rocketman tie the string around their wrist. Duang and I were doubly blessed - the Abbot and Rocketman each tied a string around our wrist.

Apparently the ritual with the string around the head is a special ritual and only observed once a year. It was very interesting and with taking care of Peelawat very enjoyable.