A Day At the Races

The Race Has Been Run, The White Boat Has Won!

Saturday, 13 November, was the first day of long boat racing in Kumphawapi.  It was a great day for the races - blue sky, bright sun, mild (for here) temperatures, and only a slight breeze.  Keeping our word to Peelawat, we drove out to Tahsang Village to bring our Grandson to the races.

We arrived at the races at 10:00 A.M.  It was upon arrival that the surprises of the day commenced.  The first surprise was that there was not any traffic jams in Kumphawapi.  The second surprise was that finding convenient parking was not difficult what's so ever.  We ended up parking at the Amphur (County) Offices a mere two blocks from the main viewing pavilion.  A greater surprise was that all parking was free.  There were no paid parking lots or people charging for parking in front of their home.  My wife could not believe that people in the USA are charged $5, $10, and sometimes $20 for parking to attend a public event.  I did not dare tell her about the parking fees associated with attending an NFL game.

The Kumphawapi races were a free event like so many other events here in Thailand.  We have attended many Mahlam Lao shows, two Phuket Vegetarian Festivals, Poi Sang Long Festival, Phi Ta Khon Festival, Ubon Candle Festival, New Years Festivals, Ban That Rocket Festival, Mango Fair, Naga Fireball Festival, School Field Day, and OTOP Expositions without being charged for admission.  It seems that getting together to celebrate and to enjoy a sense of community are higher priorities here than having an opportunity to make money.

We knew that the Princess was coming to the event so I wanted to avoid the confusion and security issues of the main viewing area.  As it turned out she attended at 7:00 P.M.  We walked north along the flood plain levee to find a suitable location to view the races.  The top of the levee is a single lane dirt road.  The water side of the road was lined with pavilions, some which had wood benches, offering spectators shelter from the sun.  The other side of the levee road was lined with food and beverage booths as well as carts.  Beverages ranged from Lao Kao whiskey, beer, soft drinks, lemon ice tea, to bottled water.  Food was the typical Isaan selections of BBQ chicken, chicken feet, warmed dried and very salty squid, papaya salad (Pauk-Pauk), Isaan sausages, and prepared ethnic dishes.  No one would go thirsty or hungry - for sure.  Another surprise, at least to me, was that the food and beverage prices were the same everyday prices that are charged.  The vendors had not taken advantage of the event or location to inflate their prices.

Cheerleaders, Isaan Style, Encouraging the Boats

Across the water there appeared to be a similar set up with one exception.  Across the way there was a large tiered stage set up just about even with the finish flag - the stage was for CHEERLEADERS.  For several of the races throughout the day the stage was filled with cheerleaders waving poms poms.  The cheerleaders were dressed in typical Lao Loum clothing reserved for special occasions rather than the skimpy outfits customary to US cheerleaders.  The Isaan cheerleaders also wore large straw hats that people wear while working in the fields.  This was another surprise of the day - cheerleaders in Isaan.  I do have to admit though that their efforts contributed to the festive nature of the event.



Spectators dancing, Singing, and Providing Non-Stop Banter Next to Large Speakers





Young Boy Singing or Perhaps Howling to the Music

 The water side of the levees had been cleared of brush to provide areas for people to sit or squat to watch the competition.  We selected an area underneath a large tree which provided us with shade for the entire day.  Duang had told me that there would be 30 boats starting the competition.  Surprisingly there were actually 60 boats on Saturday.  With that many boats competing, there was always something going on the water all day long. Boats were going up the water to prepare for their race. Boats were racing down the water. Boats were paddling up from the finish line to return to their club or organization's location. Some boats were off to the side practicing their starts. It became very apparent how important the start was for the boats. I would say that around 90 to 95% of the boats that led at the start ended up winning the race. Getting a long boat moving with approximately 40 people on board from a dead start requires some coordination, strength as well as technique. It was also obvious that the practice starts as well as full sprints in front of and full view of their competition was also sending some not so subtle messages.

Two Long Boats Headed To the Starting Line



Getting Started!

I did see one of the Kumphawapi paddlers point directly at the lead paddler of another boat as they passed by and made a cutting motion across his throat with his thumb and then emphasizing his point directly to the other paddler. With this being Isaan, this gesture may have had nothing to do with the paddling competition for the day. Sometimes there are village feuds between nearby villages. I am aware of feuds between Tahsang Village and nearby villages. Unlike the Hatfield and McCoy feud, feuds in Isaan tend to be dynamic. One village near Tahsang Village who were the "bad" guys are now the "good" guys. The "good" guys are now the "bad" guys. To add to the confusion, for and to me , the names of the villages sound just about the same. Being a foreigner keeps me above the fray so not knowing the "score" or "scoop" has not been a hindrance or liability.

With 60 boats there were approximately 20 clubs or organizations competing.  Each club or organization set up a compound on the levee where the crews rested and their supporters celebrated, practiced celebrating, and absolutely enjoyed themselves.  Each team had their own sound system and selection of Mahlam Lao music to blast out over the water.  Some spectators had driven their boom box pickup trucks up on top of the levee.  A boom box pickup truck is a small truck that has its pickup bed filled with high end speakers as well as amplifiers.  Young men like to have competitions amongst themselves for volume and looks of their machines.  They also tend to be "babe magnets".  The competing music added to the festive atmosphere.

Team Kumphawapi Awaiting Their Race - I am not sure that smoking constitutes proper preparation

Duang, Peelawat, a young cousin from Tahsang, and I found a good viewing location at the water's edge but still shaded by a large tree.  We were close to the Kumphawapi team members and below the massive speakers which helped to reduce their volume at our location.  After about an hour, Peelawat was calling for his Mom and definitely missing his morning nap.  Duang drove the gang back to Tahsang and I remained to enjoy the festival.  I am quite comfortable here and do not mind being left alone in the middle of a crowd and environment that I don't completely understand.

A Paddler Smoking While Awaiting His Race

Watching the Races From the Best Seat In the House

The competitors in the long boat races are not professionals and I suspect that they do not even formally train.  In all our trips to and through Kumphawapi, we have yet to see a long boat on the water other than during the regatta or seen  a group of adults running along the roads.  Each team had to have two distinct uniforms for the regatta.  The uniforms consisted of knock off professional professional soccer team jerseys.  There are many shops in the area which manufacture soccer uniform replicas and sell them cheaply. Competitors wore two jerseys of different colored jerseys.  The irony of the current political state here in Isaan was not lost to me.  The colors for Kumphawapi were red and yellow.  Red is the sellected colors for the Pro Thaksin group, the "Red Shirts" who are very popular here in Isaan.  The "Red Shirts" are opposed by the "Yellow Shirts" in Thailand.  For just one day, here in Kumphawapi the red shirts were also the yellow shirts depending upon the race they were in.  Depending upon the team's color for a particular race, they peeled off the second jersey and wrapped the second jersey around their waist, or tied it around their head if they decided not to wear it underneath the required color.  The paddlers wore a variety of pants to complete their uniforms - cotton shorts, soccer shorts, running pants - whatever they had and didn't mind getting wet.

Team Kumphawapi Member Relaxing - His face is powder for protection from the Sun and he wears a Buddhist Prayer Cloth for protection from everything else.

The boats were long as well as narrow.  They were actually rather flimsy and apparently leaky as well.  Each boat that I saw up close had a couple of plastic bailers recycled from plastic jugs and several large sponges.  Later in the competition. one of the Kumphawapi boats needed some adjustments if not necessary repairs.  I had been watching one of the older paddlers for awhile as he appeared to be playing with some of the water vines that he had pulled out of the water.  At first I thought he was just whiling away some time prior to the start of his next race - akin to whittling a stick.  After another man joined him I realized that there a purpose to his activity.  He was preparing the vines to lash the long boat together.  At regular intervals along both sides of the boat, just behind a seat, there was a metal loop attached to the hull.  Vines were strung between the metal loops and held the boat gunwales in tension.  The two men worked together to replace a couple of the vine tension lashings prior to their next race.  With about 6 loops of vine and several knots the lashing upon drying out was deemed "good to go".  This is indicative of the Lao Loum way of life - making do with what is readily available.

Lashing the Long Boat Together Using Water Vines

Upon first getting on board, the crew concentrated on bailing out their racing shell as well as getting the right people in the right location in the boat.  There was a very long bow on each of the boats.  The long bow was decorated with ribbon, bows, garlands and flowers as offerings to the spirits.  On top of of the bow just before the first paddler there was a small shrine with statues, small spirit houses, more offerings which now included burning joss (incense) sticks.

Spirituality plays a very large part in day to day life in Isaan and for the Lao Loum people.  I have witnessed offerings to the spirits behind stage prior to the start of Mahlam Lao shows.  Many Go-Go dancers will make an offering prior to starting to dance or at least make a "Wai" in deference to the spirits prior to going on stage to perform. Most bars have a shrine to the spirits. The practice of having a prominent shrine to the spirits is not limited to bars or entertainment establishments.  Auto dealers, restaurants, insurance companies, grocery stores, gas stations to name just a few of the types of business that have shrines.   Companies will perform a ceremony prior to starting a project.  Duang makes offerings to the spirits prior to us leaving on a trip.  When people are sick, Baii Sii ceremonies are held to assist them to get better.

Spirituality also pervades into long boat racing.  In addition to the bow offerings, each of the paddlers prior to stepping on board a boat, gave the "Wai" gesture of respect prior to putting their foot in the boat.  When the person had to step out of their boat and cross over two other boats prior to getting to the shore, they gave a Wai to each of the boats prior to entering and a Wai to the last boat that they exited.

Duang returned with the tuna fish grinder that I had prepared for my lunch.  She also had a bottle of cola for me to drink.  This was great but I was in no danger of going thirsty or hungry.  I was hesitant to leave my "good" vantage point close to the boats, close to the water, under a shade tree, with a relatively flat piece of ground to sit on.  I was also reticent to climb up and then back down the rough as well as steep levee bank with all my camera gear on my back.  I just sat there and waited for the food and drinks to come to me.  Just like at a baseball game back in the USA, peddlers were wandering along the levee selling cups of soft drinks and snacks.  I grabbed two cups of Thailand's answer to Kool Aid - 10 Baht each ($0.30 USD) - definitely not USA ball park prices.  A woman walked the levee selling small dried and very salty squid.  In my cynicism, I wonder if she was the soft drink vendor's wife - a great way to increase soft drink sales is to get people to eat very salty squid!  There was also another woman selling snacks out of two aluminum pots - but I was not buying anything that she was selling.  One pot was filled with deep fried or perhaps they were sauteed crickets.  They were small but still not appetizing to me.  The other pot was filled with larger bugs either deep fried or sauteed.  The fact that they resembled cockroaches made they only more unappealing to me.  They were unappealing to me but not to the people around me.  The young father behind me bought a small bag of the crickets and seemed to enjoy them along with his 3 and 5 year old children.  I sat there and enjoyed my grinder and soda.

A resident in Tahsang Village had died two days earlier, so there had been a heavy run on both the Lao Kao whiskey and beer at my mother-in-law's market.  She asked Duang to go into town and buy more stock for the market.  After giving me my lunch, Duang left to buy the items and return them to Tahsang Village.  However prior to leaving she lectured me much like I would expect her to lecture Peelawat about staying where he was and to not wander off.  I mentioned it to her and we both laughed.  This time I listened to her - this time and stayed put.

I enjoyed the next two hours watching the races and taking photographs.  I kept an eye out for Duang and finally saw her coming down towards me through the large crowd that was now settled on the levee bank.  She was in a slight panic.  She had been looking for me and could not find me.  I told her that I had not moved.  With the arrival of more people and more vendors on top of the levee, she had forgotten where she had left me - thankfully it was not Peelawat that she had left behind!  At 61 years old I can take care of myself much better than Peelawat can take care of himself at 21 months.  She started laughing and told me that she went up to one of the men singing and providing a stream of concious commentary on what ever came into his mind on one of the many sound systems along the levee.  He announced 3 times "Mister Allen.  Your wife can not find you. Go where she see you before"  One problem though - no it wasn't the other 15 to 20 competing sounds systems with blaring music and alcohol fueled commentaries.  The problem was that he did not speak English so the announcements were in Isaan (a dialect of Lao) which as Duang says "Me, no understand".  I do remember hearing what sounded like Peelawat saying "Tahlen!!" (Grandfather Allen!) a couple of times and looked but it didn't make sense to me. Fortunately there were not many falang, foreigners, in attendance so the people were able to give her a clue where I was.   Duang and I still laugh about the incident.  Situations like that happen often around here and keep us smiling if not laughing.

The Starting Line - Long Boats Get Into Position for the Start

We wandered up the levee towards the starting line for the races and I mentioned to Duang that her brother should be there since he sells soft drinks from his specialized motorcycle cart. He especially makes a killer glass of "Cha Menouw - (Lemon Ice Tea) from scratch - even brewing the tea fresh for drink. When we arrived at the point on the levee parallel with the starting line there was her brother or "Number 3" as he is referred to. "Number 4" is her youngest brother who is the Mahlam Lao performer. We each enjoyed a great glass of iced tea - 20 baht ($0.60 USD) a glass for friends, family, and everyone else!


At 4:00 P.M. we left - happy, satisfied, and done in by the heat, Sun, and excitement of it all.

Going to the Regatta



Long Boat Racing Teams Practicing the Day Before Competing In Kumphawapi

For the past two or three weeks there have been banners across the streets of Kumphawapi and large billboards outside of the town announcing a great festival from 12 November 2553 to 14 November 2553.  I have lived in Thailand long enough to understand that the year 2553 of the Buddhist era corresponds to the Western year of 2010.

Last year we had passed through town during the last day of the festival but I had not brought my camera gear with me.  I missed out on documenting the long boat regatta.  As we crossed the bridge over the flood plain I could see boats competing.  I vowed to not miss out this year.

Water Festivals and more specifically long boat racing is very popular in Southeast Asia.  Last month there was a large event, "Boun Naam" or "Vientiane Boat Racing Festival" north of Udonthani in the Lao People's Democratic Republic (LPDR) or what is commonly referred to as "Laos" in the West.  Long boat racing in LPDR is not limited to the capital city of Vientiane.  There is a boat racing festival in the former royal capital of Luang Prabang in September.  Long Boat racing also is held during the "Wat Phou Festival" in Champassak during February.

Not to outdone by her neighbors, Cambodia has a very large Water Festival during November 20 to 22 this year, in Phnom Penh.  Up to a million people people will be lining the banks of the Mekong River to witness the boat races there.

Myanmar, also known as Burma, has boat racing.

Here in Thailand there are long boat races throughout the Kingdom in April, September, October and November.

The Royal Flag for HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindorn

This weekend's races in Kumphawapi will be a grand event.  Besides many Thai National Flags decorating the town and venue, there were many flags for HRH Princess Maha Chakri Siridorn.  Apparently she will be presiding over the opening ceremonies tomorrow 13 November.  I learned this the hard way today.

We drove to Kumphawapi early this morning despite Duang's and her daughter's statements that the rqacing was not until Saturday.  I was under the impression that if the banner said 12 November 2553 to 14 November 2553 it meant racing on all three days.  It really didn't matter all that much because we have to go to Kumphawapi to get to Tahsang Village to visit the family.  I told Duang that if there was nothing going on we would drive out to Tahsang Village and visit the family.



Two Boats Practicing For Saturday's and Sunday's Competition

 Well there was plenty going on in Kumphawapi - everyone was busy setting up bleachers, pavilions, temporary restrooms, viewing stands, refreshment stands, and vendor booths - but no real racing.  I suspect that there will be a concert tonight so that could be why "12 November" was on the banners.

Our visit to the venue was not a waste of time.  I was able to scout out locations and determine the sun's location for morning shots.  Having visited the site, we also developed a strategy for the best route to take into town, where we hope to park and how far we think we will have to walk.  In light of our knowledge tonight that the Royal Princess will be in attendance - we are way ahead of the game.


After Their Practice Run A Team Turns At the Bridge

There will be 30 boats competing for a 30,000 Baht prize ($1,000 USD).  There are male teams as well as female teams from around Thailand.  I heard of boats coming from Ubon Ratchathani which is 6 hours away by road.  I was unable to find out if the winning male team gets the 30,000 baht prize and the winning female team also receives 30,000 Baht.  I guess that is why you show up - to find these things out.  It makes life more interesting at times when you don't know the answers, realize that you don't know, and accept that it really doesn't matter all that much.  What is important is to make the most of your opportunities, and enjoy yourself.

We enjoyed our visit to the sight.  There were three boats practicing on the water.  I am hesitant to call it a river.  It looks like a river but a month ago I had my doubts as to how there could be boat races.  The area is actually a flood plain with a narrow stream running through it.  A month ago the stream was filled and clogged with green vines similar to kudzu in Florida.  Today there was a broad expanse of water and hardly a sign of vegetation in the water.  I asked Duang if people had cut and removed the vegetation.  She said no that it all been covered by the water.  This time I listened and believed her.

At these events there are always many booths and stalls that sell potted plants and flowers.  When we arrived in town this morning the vendors were busy setting up their stalls along the street bordering the park where we take Peelawat to see the monkeys.  The stalls are constructed out of metal scaffolding with corrugated metal sheeting for roofs and plastic mesh fabric for walls.  Duang and I were happy but the monkeys were not.  The resident monkeys were definitely upset with the incursion as well as disruption to their territory.  There were several monkeys on top of the sheet metal roofs bouncing up and down as well as hitting the metal with their fists; making a heck of a noise in obvious signs of displeasure - sort of like Peelawat was doing the other day with his plastic tractor when he saw his 3 year old cousin sitting on my knee.  He glared at me and banged the toy up and down on the floor in a highly animated manner as he yelled "Ahlhen Ahlhen, May Ow! " (Allen Allen, No!)  Funny how 21 month olds are so much like monkeys - and just as cute.  I yelled at the monkeys in Thai to calm down which caused the vendors to laugh and the monkeys to run away.

After scouting out the area we drove out to Tahsang Village and had a nice visit.  Peelawat and Kwan were busy playing in the dirt with three very young puppies to keep them distracted. Toddlers and puppies - does it get much cuter?

Tomorrow we will go back to the regatta.  With Royalty being present there may be some challenges but we are up to them.  If worse comes to worse there is always Tahsang Village to visit and the next day of racing with such a highly honored guest.  No matter what i expect it to be interesting - another day here in Isaan.

Long Boat with Rooster Tail Flying

Learning Faith In Isaan - Starting Out Young

Tey, 4 years old and Peelawat, 21 months, Worshiping

Last Saturday, we drove out to Tahsang Village early to participate in a merit making ritual that is related to Duang's decision to make special merit.  For the close of Buddhist Lent on October 23rd, Thot Kathin Day, Duang dressed all in white and sat with the other women who had decided to participate in a religious retreat at the Wat that night.  As Duang described it to me it greatly reminded me of Religious Retreats performed in the Catholic Church.


Duang and Other Women Preparing to Attend A Religious Retreat

Once we arrived at the Wat located amongst the sugar cane fields outside of Tahsang Village, Duang could no longer communicate or touch me - it was not personal it was just that I was a man.  Just as Monks can not touch a female, Duang and the other female retreat attendees could not touch a man.  There was one bright side to this requirement for me, Duang could not care for Peelawat, our 21 month old grandson, until the next morning.  I had the responsibility to care for him until after the morning alms giving ritual when I would return him back to his mother back in Tahsang Village.

Peelawat and I sat on the left hand side of the Wat while Duang sat with the other women on the right hand side.  Peelawat lasted 45 minutes when he decided that he had had enough of that "old time" religion.  I brought him back to the village and returned to the Wat to await my mother-in-law to complete her worship.  Well, part of the time was spent in ritual but a great deal of time was spent waiting for her to finish eating.  People earn merit by offering food to Monks for the Monk's single meal of the day.  Monks are not allowed to save food after they consume their morning meal so once they have taken their portions of food that they have been offered, people are invited to eat the remaining portions.  With this being Isaan, eating the remaining food becomes a great opportunity to socialize.  Everyone had a grand time eating, drinking water, and most of all chatting.

From the commencement of the morning ritual the women studied Buddhist dharma and meditated .  They also fasted for the entire day.  Breakfast on Thot Kathin Day was their only food until the following morning.

Motivated from their retreat experience Duang and Tey's Grandmother decided to follow up on earning additional merit.  They could earn additional merit by performing a special ritual for seven Wednesdays in a row by fasting, dressing in white, practising abstinence, chanting and meditating.  From their retreat they had a book with teachings and chants written down for the Wednesday rituals.  On each of the seven Wednesdays, they can not touch or even talk to a man no matter how old the male is.  They can eat only a meal of rice in the morning and liquid intake is restricted to just water.

Wednesday 10 October - Duangchan Worshiping At Her Shrine In Our Upstairs Alcove

On Wednesday night they sleep in front of the shrine located in their homes.  On Thursday morning they able to resume their normal life.

Four days ago, Saturday, we went to Tahsang Village for another special ritual.  In addition to the typical morning offering of food to the Monks, Duang and Tey's Grandmother were going to get a shower from the Monk.  This was something new to me.  This was something that I had to see because I had no idea what it was like.  Duang told me that she would wear all white clothing to go to the Wat and wear a change of dry clothing to come back home.  We left our home at 6:00 A.M. in 75F weather to pick up Tey's Grandmother before going out into the fields to get to the Wat.  At least that was our original plan.  When we got to Tahsang Village, we discovered that Tey, 4 years old, wanted to go with his Grandmother.  Since Tey was going, his sister, Mai, 5 years old wanted to go too.  When Peelawat, 21 months old, realized that his friend Tey was going, he wanted to go.  As we were finally loaded up in the truck, Kwan, 3 years old, wanted to go with her cousin Peelawat and friends Tey and Mai.  With the four children all under six years old loaded into the truck we headed off to the Wat.

Tey, Mai, Kwan and Peelawat Prepare to Worship Under the Supervision of Tey's Grandmother



Sometimes Lighting Joss Stick Offerings Can Be Difficult - Especially When You Are 2 or 3 Years Old

 The children are always well behaved and I welcomed their accompanying us out to the Wat.  I was not expecting to witness what was to be a very special morning.  Fortunately I had brought my camera gear to document the morning's activities.

I have written several times about the daily role of spirituality and religion in the life of the Lao Loum people here in Isaan.  The people's faith provides them with answers to daily concerns, a sense of direction for their life and comfort in the face of the hardships of life as well as confidence in the future.  I had noted that even at his early age Peelawat can recognize and demonstrate respect for Monks and religious objects.  Children participate or at least witness all the rituals related to Buddhism as well as Animist rituals that are performed here in Isaan.  There is no sense that the children are "too young" in regards to attending ceremonies or events.  However it was not until Saturday that I saw how much the young children knew about worshiping or witnessed their training.  For me it was a special treat.  Knowing the children personally made the experience even more special.

Kwan Performing One of Three Supplications Before A Statue of Buddha

Tey's Grandmother supervised the children at the various shrines located on the Wat's grounds.  There are different statues of Buddha representing days of the week.  Some of the staues are located in different buildings or pavilions on the grounds.  The children worshiped at two of the three places that we stopped at.

Flanked by Mai and Kwan, Peelawat Makes His Offering

Peelawat and Kwan Finish their Ritual By Placing Their Burning Joss Sticks in the Receptacle In Front of Buddha statue

Tey's Grandmother left to participate in the offering of food to the Monks while I finished with the children - mainly ensuring that they did not set themselves or anything else on fire.  It was so very nice to see the children learning of a power and entity greater than themselves. Peelawat, the youngest, was particular enamored in the burning Joss (incense) Sticks.  After awhile, after giving me sticks and a lighter for me to make an offering, he finally completed his worship.



Peelawat Contemplating His Burning Joss Sticks

 Peelawat and I walked to the large outdoor shrine just in time for the offering of food to the Monks. There were three Monks receiving food; the Abbott around 50 years old, a Monk around 25 or 30 years old and a Novice Monk about 12 years old.  The Novice Monk was excited to see me.  He had reminded Duang that last year I had given him 20 Baht.  I remembered him too.

The Wat's Young Novice Participates In Morning Ritual

Last year, at a village celebration where Duang's brother was performing a Mahlam Lao Show the boy was also attending.  Many of the children were snacking on ice cream, soft drinks, or other goodies.  This boy was not and appeared to be alone.  I gave him some money so that he could buy some treats to enjoy like the other children were able to.  His face was disfigured and I asked Duang about him.  The boy had been mauled by a dog and blinded in one eye from the incident.  He was also an orphan being cared for by an uncle.  He is not the first child that I have seen disfigured by a dog in Isaan.  Dogs are very common in the villages and Wats of Isaan.  The dogs are not kept in the manner and style of pet dogs in the United States.  They are definitely not pampered.  The dogs in Isaan are not neutered either.  The dogs are tolerated and there are no wide spread attempts to control the dog population.  The village dogs coexist, most of the time, with the villagers.  I guess they offer some protection against snakes.  Some dogs help with herding the cattle.  Except for selling them to the travelling dog meat agents, the villagers would never consider destroying a village dog. 

In Isaan the Wats are more than places of worship.  Wats also retain their traditional role of providing education, shelter and sustenance for those in need.  The young boy has been taken into the Wat and seems to be happy with his new set of circumstances.  Duang and I once met and spoke with a 38 year old Monk who had entered into his Wat when he was 9 years old.  The tradition of caring for others continues today. Seeing that the young boy is now in better circumstances made me feel good inside as well as reassured that the Lao Loum people can and do take care of each other without involving the government.

Duang About to be Blessed

At the completion of the morning food offering, we walked to another building.  Duang prayed at the shrine inside the building and then set a saht (woven reed mat) on the ground outside of the building's porch railing.  Inside the building the 25 year old Monk was praying as he dropped burning candle wax into a plastic bucket of water.  Duang knelt ouside on the saht.  The Monk came out on to the porch and sprinkled Duang using a brush made out of coarse reeds or rushes. This was apparently her "shower".  I had seen this type of blessing before as well as been on the receiving end of many of these blessings.  Later I found out that Duang had opted out of the shower because it was "too cold" (23C, 73F).  Tey's Grandmother, perhaps because she has more body insulation, went for the full shower.  She sat on the saht wearing a long skirt pulled up to her under arms and had the same type of water poured on her head and shoulders by the Monk.  After she changed into dry clothing we gathered up the children and returned to Tahsang Village.

Tey's Grandmother Being Showered With Holy Water

A Chicken Relaxes In Buddha's Lap

Once again I went home "smiling inside" thinking about all that I had seen and experienced that morning.

Kok Sa-nga, King Cobra Village

Kok Sa-nga Resident Fights A King Cobra

About two weeks ago, I watched a very interesting National Geographic documentary titled "Hiss of Death" from 2004.  The program dealt with a small village in Northern Thailand where King Cobras are kept as pets and used in local shows.  As it turned out the village, Kok Sa-nga, is located in Isaan outside of Khoen Kaen which is 90 minutes south of our home in Udonthani.  Much of the program dealt with a young 8 year old boy, "Touk", who wanted to be a snake fighter like his uncle, Khun Tongkum.

In 1951 a man named Khun Ken Yongla from Kok Sa-nga discovered an herbal remedy for poisonous snake bites.  He prepared the medicine and sold it to local people who were happy with the product.  Mr Yongla went door to door selling his remedy.  To increase sales, he decided to bring a snake in a wooden box with him as he went from village to village.  As people gathered around to look at his cobra, he would market his product.  Even today traveling medicine or "snake oil" shows ply the back roads of Isaan.  I wrote of one such experience in Tahsang Village over a year ago in my blog
http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2009/09/snake-oil-salesman-health-care.html  Originally Khun Ken used a spitting cobra in his marketing strategy but after 6 (!!) years he changed over to using a King Cobra which does not spit its poison.  The King Cobra has to strike in order to utilize its venom.  This makes it safer for the audience.  Khun Ken used to take his children with him out into the countryside on his sales trips.  He developed a wide reputation for his skill in handling snakes.

In 1982 the Tourism Authority of Thailand investigated reports dealing with Khun Ken and Kok Sa-nga Village.  They found that over 200 King Cobras were kept as pets in the village.  It was during 1982 that the King Cobra Club of Thailand was founded at the local Buddhist Temple - Wat Srithumma.

The program was fascinating and with the village being rather close to our home, I decided that we needed to visit the place.  As is standard operating procedure for planning our trips, I researched the location on the Internet.  I found directions to the village as well as more information about the program.  I decided to go on a weekend because village school children take part in the shows when they are not attending school.  My research also indicated that the best time to visit was during Thai New Years (Songkran - Mid April) when there was a large celebration.  Since the village was not far away, I decided to visit it now to determine if it was worthwhile to visit during Songkran.

We located the village with no problem at all.  From Udonthani we took Highway 2 south towards Khoen Kaen.  About 35 km north of Khoen Kaen, we exited left onto Highway 2039 towards Nam Phong.  At 14 KM from Highway 2 there is a narrow dirt road on the right that leads 600 meters into Kok Sa-nga.  You take the first left in the village and the first of the snake shows is 1/2 Km on the left.

There are two venues for snake fighting in Kok Sa-nga.  The first one that you encounter is a private enterprise.  The second one which is located about 200 meters further down the road at Wat Srithumma is run by the King Cobra Club of Thailand and receives some government support.  Having been to both shows, with both shows not charging admission, with both shows seeking donations, and with both shows lasting about 20 minutes each, I recommend that people visit both locations.  Both locations also allow photography including the use of a flash.

Our first stop was at the private enterprise.  There appears to be no formal show times.  We had arrived around 11:00 A.M. and were in no hurry or on any schedule.  I was content to just sit around and watch the local residents doing their thing.  My photography is "documentary" style so I do not necessarily have to have a staged event to take pictures that I seek.


A Snake Fighter Kisses The Head of a King Cobra

In front of the show pavilion there were booths that sold snacks, drinks, souvenirs, clothing items, and herbal "medicines".  There is limited parking in front of the pavilion with additional parking across the street.  There were not many visitors on the day of our visit.  We waited about five minutes for the start of the show. The performers congregate around and seem to perform so that visitors do not have to wait very long.

Both shows commence with young girls dancing to Mahlam Lao music.  Midway through their dance, pythons are draped over their shoulders.  After awhile dancing with the snakes the girls place the snake's head in their mouth.  Pythons are none poisonous however as I watched I could not help to be somewhat concerned about bacteria on the snakes getting into the dancer's body.


Kok Sa-nga Man With King Cobra In His Mouth


After the dance, older men fight King Cobras.  At the private show, the man was more violent as well as aggressive with the snake.  He used his fists and feet to actually touch the snake.  At the second venue, the man resorted to more shadow boxing type movements to illicit strikes from the cobra.  Both techniques were interesting to observe.

Man Versus King Cobra

When the older men were completed, a young boy fights snakes but not King Cobras.  The snakes that the young boys fight are extremely quick and aggressive.

Touk, now 14 years old, Fights A Snake

At the King Cobra Club of Thailand we were greeted just as enthusiastically as we had been at the private club.  I immediately recognized Touk from the National Geographic program.  He is now 14 years old and continuing to learn his uncle's trade of snake fighting.  I did not see or if he was there I did not recognize his uncle Khun Tongkum.

Touk The Snake Fighter

Touk and the Other School Aged Performers of the King Cobra Club of Thailand

This Young Girl Loved to be Photographed



King Cobra Club of Thailand Performer

After the show we stayed around to talk with the villagers.  They were as interested in learning about us as we were in learning about them.  I took photographs of the young performers while Duang continued chatting with the villagers.  Here in Isaan, people never seem to be at a loss for words.
Prior to leaving, the villagers placed two pythons over my neck and shoulders.  I made sure that the villagers had not told the snakes that I had eaten python when I lived in Vietnam.  They had a good laugh.  We all had a good laugh when Duang overcame her fear and posed with one of the pythons over her neck.


Brave Duangchan Holding a Python - Her First

We enjoyed our visit and we will return in April for the large celebration.  We were pleased to have witnessed another unique aspect of life here in Isaan.

Young Kok Sa-nga Villager Dances to Mahlam Lao Music As She Heads Home

No Dancing With the Stars - Just Dancing Under the Stars



You Can Take the Girl Out of the Go-Go, But You Can Not Take the Go-Go Out of the Woman.


It appears that our rainy season is over.  It has been a week of refreshing temperatures, lows around 73F and highs around 80F, humidity around 40%, brilliant sunshine, and no rain.  We no longer are using ceiling fans to keep the house comfortable.  Comfortable?  Comfort is all relative - sort of like beauty being in the eye of the beholder only in this case comfort is in the brain of the person.

Whereas I am in my "comfortable time" of the year here in Isaan, my wife and the other Lao Loum inhabitants are not as comfortable.  Our bed room at night is around 73F - very comfortable for me to sleep without any covers.  However my wife often has to wear a sweatpants outfit and always sleeps under a sheet along with a thick comforter to attain some comfort.

Many people are now wearing winter jackets and knit hats to be comfortable during our cold "weather".  I am enjoying going out in summer slacks and polyester tee shirts and not getting drenched in perspiration.

Duangchan Dressed For the "Chill" - 73F, 23C

 With the change in the weather but not a change in time - Thailand does not change clocks during the year, there are many changes in activities throughout Isaan.  The rice and sugar cane harvests have just started.  The rice harvest will reach a climax at the end of this month.  The sugar cane harvest will continue into the New Year.  Currently the rice paddies are filled with golden grain with drooping heads of rice kernels.  Fortunate farmers have paddies of upright stalks of rice.  Many unfortunate farmers, due to swirling winds, have large portions of their paddies filled with flattened or partially flattened rice stalks.  Harvesting flattened stalks is much more labor intensive and time consuming.  Harvesting is done by hand using sickles.

With the end of Buddhist Lent about 2 weeks ago, Monks are free to roam about the country - not on Southwest Airlines but  any way that they choose.  During Lent they had to remain at one Wat.  Now they can travel to other Wats and spend the night.  During the day more Monks can be seen traveling about the region.

With the improved weather, the Mahlam Lao shows have started up again.  Last night, my brother-in-law had a show in an outlying village.  He had let us know so that I could go and take photographs.  Duang was not all that enthusiastic mentioning something about too much fighting, guns, and that too many of the people had been Communists.  I welcomed the opportunity to see another one of his shows.  Duang agreed and suggested that we have her son or son-in-law drive us because she knew that I do not like the frequent confusion that results in transporting family to an area not on the map and relying on their "instructions".  That suggestion was fine with me.  There was also the added bonus that our 21 month old grandson would sit on my lap as we drove to and from the show.

I did not quite understand how far away the concert site was.  It was two hours from Tahsang Village.  I refer to the place, "Na Kom Noy" or "Na Kom Noi", or perhaps it was "Nakom Noi", as "Somewhere in the Middle of Nowhere".  Of the two hour drive, at least 45 minutes was on dirt "roads".  Roads to me imply a maintained path with proper compaction and drainage.  We travelled on dirt paths, areas absent of vegetation and highly rutted in the middle of sugar cane fields and rice paddies.  There were very few signs to indicate where we were or where we might be headed.  We had 4 family members who "knew" the way to the village.  Even with them knowing how to get there, there were many times when my stepson had to slow down and lower a window to get instructions on exactly how to get there.  I am still confused as to why we were not able to take paved roads to the village  but that may be just me being a "falang".  One section of road actually had 50% of its surface deeply eroded and rutted by previous rains.  I was concerned that we would break an axle or break the oil pan on the road.  Duang had thought well - if I had been driving we would never had made it to the concert - I would have lost my cool and returned to Tahsang Village well before two hours were up.  Having Peelawat sleeping on my lap kept me from losing my cool as a passenger - just barely.




Lon Makes An Offering Prior to the Show Starting

 We eventually made it to the village.  We had been told that this was going to be a big show - 6 "sexy ladies" (dancers).  It turned out that there actually 8 dancers (I did not find their mullet hairpieces to be all that sexy though) plus a saxophone player in the band. Usually my brother-in-law has 4 dancers and no sax player so this was indeed a big show.  We initially sat behind stage and watched the dancers and other performers prepare for the show.

The Khene Player and Second Male Singer Prior to Going On Stage

I had witnessed performers make religious offerings before and last night was no exception to the need to appease the spirits.  Prior to the start of the show my brother-in-law made an offering.  Some of the other performers did a little meditating before the show. Peelawat was interested in everything and took it all in.


Peelawat Bundled Up for the Show and a Little Tired

The show started at 10:00 P.M.  There was a good sized crowd.  It was readily apparent that many of the people had been drinking - drinking for a while - quite a while.  Mahlam Lao shows are performed for many reasons such as Weddings, Funerals, Weddings, Death Anniversaries, Monk Ordinations, Religious Festivals, political celebrations, fund raisers for a temple, and sometimes - just for fun.  Last night's reason was related to a fund raising for the local Wat.

Na Kom Noi Resident Enjoys a Snack

The spectators sat on woven reed mats, sahts, placed on the prepared field for the show.  One side of the field had carts selling foods, beer, whiskey, and novelties for children.  The other side of the field abutted the wall surrounding the Wat.  People of all ages attended the concert as I have found at all similar events here in Isaan.  Our group represented four generations and was typical of other families at the show.

Everyone Enjoys A Mahlam Show

Once the band started playing there was no hesitation for people to get up and dance.  There are 5 distinct groups that dance at these affairs.  The first group is the "Young Bucks".  The "Young Bucks" are males ranging from 10 years old up to 30 years old.  They are extremely animated, and the ones from 14 to 30 years old are often very drunk.  The younger members of the group being under 14 years old are working on making a favorable impression on the older members - often their brothers or cousins.  The Young Bucks congregate at the front of the stage and strut their stuff by performing very energetic as well as exaggerated dance routines.  It is from the "Young Bucks" that most of the fights break out.  An unintentional bump in the "mosh pit", an intentioned slight,  physical contact to apologize misinterpreted as a gesture to assert dominance; all lead to fists flying and legs kicking.

"Young Bucks" Dancing to the Beat

Young Bucks Moving to Impress



A "Young Buck" Dancing the Night Away

The second group who also congregate at the front of the stage are the "Ladyboys" or "Kathoeys".  They manage to appear at all concerts no matter how isolated the location.  Last night there were only two or three but often there can be as many as 15 or more.  The "Ladyboys" often compete with the "Young Bucks" for "Best Dancers" and often they are the superior dancers perhaps because they tend to not be as drunk.  However the Ladyboys also tend to fight but typically only amongst themselves.



An "Old Buck" Busts Some Dance Moves



This is "Old Guy" Had More Moves than a Box of ExLax

The third group, which is not actually a group but more like a collection, are the "Old Guys".  The Old Guys are individual men who have worked hard all their life and if they have not drank hard all their life they at least have been drinking hard all that day.  They dance by themselves apparently oblivious to what is going on around them.  They are also great dancers and quite entertaining to watch.  They have a great time until a family member intervenes and removes them from the area.  The "Old Guys" are "Dancers" and "Entertainers" rather than "Brawlers" or "Fighters"

The next group that you will typically encounter at these shows are the "Matrons".  The "Matrons" are the wives and other mature women who will dance together off to the side.  They remind me a great deal of my Aunts who would dance together at family weddings.  I have yet to see the "Matrons" mix it up other than to intervene with "Young Bucks", "Old Guys", and even the "Ladyboys" in attempts to restore order or try to restore a certain degree of decorum.

The last group is everyone else - young girls dancing together sometimes while flirting with "Young Bucks", women dancing by themselves in a world of their own and a small number of men dancing with women.

The Show Goes On



"Sexy Lady" Dancer - The One Without A Mullet Hairpiece




Dancer Showing One of Her Many Moves

 The Mahlam Lao shows can be quite "bawdy" performances but not actually obscene.  The lead performer will often engage the audience in double entendres.  Even the lead female performer will make some rather 'off color" remarks such as what she would like to eat or a remark regarding what she thinks a male spectator has been "blessed" with.  The audience revels in the crude humor. The dancers have some very suggestive dance moves but they are strictly for show.  But this is Thailand and things are not always what they appear to be.  Often the dancers wear body stockings underneath their apparent skimpy outfits.  Last night's dancers were an exception in that 7 of them had bare midriffs.  Typically the dancers wear a pair of short shorts underneath their dance outfits.  Last night one of the dancers wore a pair of women's briefs.  All the dancers wore pantyhose.  So although their outfits appeared rather risque they were actually only dressed suggestively.  Having the ability and privilege to stay backstage I also can observe the wonders of make-up.  It is interesting to see a normal looking girl utilize makeup, hairpieces, sparkles, and false eyelashes to become transformed into a "Sexy Lady"  This transformation is also part of the performance.  The transformation is also part of the illusion for the benefit of people who have a hard life to escape for a few hours.  That's what is entertainment here in Isaan.

As part of the performances, members of the audience will approach the stage to give money or flowers to specific performers.  Sometimes the spectator only wants to or can only afford to shake a hand and give a kind remark.  This ritual is all part of the show with the audience becoming the performers and part of the performance.  It is all very entertaining.  The combination of hard driving music, suggestive dance moves, visual sexual cues, and double entendres along with alcohol consumption make a for a highly charged atmosphere.

In general everyone knows their role in the performance and there are no problems other than fights in the audience.  Last night however was the first time in three years that I saw a spectator cross the line with a performer.  A drunk man went up to the stage and reached his hand up to the lead dancer. She squatted down to touch his hand.  This is done modestly many times during a performance by both male and female performers to receive tributes from the audience.  However the drunk man wanted to touch more than her hand.  He took a swipe to touch her in an inappropriate manner and place.  She avoided his attempt, stood up, and just glared at him.  If I had not seen it before, I finally saw what is meant by the expression "If looks could kill".  I was 50 feet away, had nothing to do with the breach in etiquette,  and I had not been drinking but the look still scared me!

Five songs into last night's show the first fight broke out.  Duang had warned me before arriving at the village to not wander into the mosh pit area. I selected a nice area to place our sahts out in the audience area.   After awhile I wandered to the front of the stage to take some photos when I returned, Duang had decided to relocate to the area where the wall separated the concert from the Wat - also the area where the Police were located.  She said something to a Policeman and a chair was made available for me.  She also got a chair for herself to sit next to me.  I got the impression that I was in protective custody.  I remained there until the second fight of the night broke out - right in front of me.  Despite Duang's concerns I was able to protect myself and stay out of the fray.  She ran back from the refreshment booth across the way to tell me it was time to leave.  We gathered up the clan and left at 12:00 A.M. and we arrived back home at 2:00 A.M.  The concert ended at 4:00 A.M.  Yes, there were more fights but no guns involved.  Duang considered that to be a great improvement over previous years.

It was not the best show that we have attended.  It was nice to spend more time with family.  We arrived home safe.  It was definitely entertaining.  I ended up with photos that I am pleased with so all in all it was another good night here in Northeast Thailand (Isaan).