Wat Kham Chanot

Standing Buddha: Left arm is in the Abhaya Mudra position while the left hand is in the Vitarka Mudra (thumb and forefinger brought together) - Buddha is appealing to reason - an appeal for peace

Earlier this month as part of our journey ith our grandson to observe salt production in the Ban Dung area, we made a return visit to a special Buddhist temple, Wat Kham Chanot.

We had first visited Wat Kham Chanot four years ago in May 2009 to watch Duang's brother Mahlam Lao show that was part of a large festival being held at the Wat.  That first visit was subject of the following blog entry:

http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2009/05/go-go-girls-at-door-to-water-underworld.html


Wat Kham Chanot is considered a very special place to the ethnic Lao, Lao Loum, a people that Duang is a member of.  Wat Kham Chanot, which is not too far from the Mekong River, is considered to be the gate to the water underworld which is ruled by the King of the Nagas.  Nagas are a mythological deity that takes the form a a very great snake.  Nagas are found in the traditions and legends of Hinduism as well as in Buddhism.  I have written before about the amalgamation of Animist, Hindu and Buddhist beliefs and traditions here in Isaan.  The area was once Animist before Hindu and then Buddhist believers arrived.  Today in Isaan traditions and beliefs from all three remain a very strong part of not only the culture but of individual daily life.

It is believed that a Naga lives in the area around Wat Kham Chanot and that an entrance to the under waterworld where the nagas reign is on the property of the Wat.  Many people go to the Wat to make offerings, and to pay homage to the Nagas.

One of two Nagas guarding the entrance to the causeway at Wat Kham Chanot

Wat Kham Chanot is a very developed temple.  Many changes and "improvements" have been completed since our visit there four years ago.  There is now a formal organized rural market set up on the edge of the property as well as a well established paved parking area on the other side of the property.  There is no need to worry about going hungry or even thirsty when visiting the Wat.

There are actually two parts of the Wat.  The first part they I have alluded to above is situated along the main road.  The second part of the facility is situated on a small island out in a floodplain. The island is heavily covered with vegetation and many large palm and coconut trees.  The origins of the first Wat are on the island. A well constructed causeway connects the island to the main complex.

Shrine located on the island at Wat Kham Chanot

There are several shrines located along the paved walkway on the island where devotees can pay homage to the Naga deity. The causeway is considered sacred ground so people remove their shoes and flip flops before crossing the bridge to the island.

Devotee cleanses her face with sacred water from the Naga well

There is also a pool of sacred water on the island from the under water world where devotees can splash on their face, pour on their head and fill containers to bring back to their homes.  Some people toss water, to make merit, from the pool on the large Naga rising above one end of the pool.



Making an offering of water to the Naga

Besides a heavy concentration of Chanot trees on the island as well as other native vegetation on the island there are many birds along with squirrel's scampering through the vegetation.



Children climb amongst the roots of a Chanot tree



Little boy has spotted a squirrel

I noticed that the trees, especially the roots were very smooth and had a sort of whitish sheen to them.  It was not long before I saw the reason why - people were rubbing baby powder on them.  Why?  Protection from insects?  Animist worship?  Nope - the people rub the powder on the bark to hopefully reveal numbers that they will use for the upcoming lotteries!

Offerings to Naga

The island received a constant flow of visitors during our visit.  Besides making offerings at the several shrines to the Nagas, and receiving blessings at the Naga well, people also make merit, or try to make merit. at several gongs.  People try to make the gongs hum loudly by rubbing their hands over or inside of protrusions on the gong.  I would estimate that about 1/3 of the people were able to make them hum.  Everywhere that we go, Duang is able to make the gongs hum very loudly.  Her ability impresses the other people and she often spends time teaching the others how to do it - to no avail.  I am not able to do it ... perhaps because I do not know what prayer to say before doing it, I am not a Buddhist or perhaps more telling I may not have a "good heart" (good, kind, generous).  I ended up telling the people that Duang was "Pii mer mai"- old lady witch.

Duang making a gong hum loudly

Devotees arrive to worship

At one of the shrines on the island, people made offerings and paid homage to the Nagas.  They also make requests for good luck, good fortune and happiness. However at Wat Kham Chanot there is a different part of the ritual than offering some flowers, candles, and incense along with the prayers.  As I have seen at only two or three other Wats, the devotee can get an indication as to how effective their requests were.  By attempting to lift a sacred relic above their head, a devotee can determine the likelihood that their wishes will be granted.  At the shrine there were two heavy stones which appeared to me to be relics of a stone column perhaps Khmer in origin.  Two by two the devotees knelt before the Naga shrine and attempted to lift a stone relic twice above their head.  Duang was successful.  I asked her about it and she told me that "if you could do it twice it was very good, if you could only do it once that was good, if you can not lift it - it's OK you may still be granted your wishes."

Duang lifts a sacred relic

Naga Shrine

Our recent visit to Wat Kham Chanot was just as interesting as our first visit four years previously.  Like is the circumstances of all return visits to a location, we were better able to understand as well as to appreciate the details of the place.

Worker collects offerings from shrines, making room for more offerings

Quite often people do not visit or appreciate the special places that are close to their home; often planning on visiting them some other day; a day that often does not come.  Wherever you may live there is something unique in your area perhaps something that people from far away may travel to experience and see.  Often an adventure or enlightening experience is not half a world away but merely a few kilometers or miles from your home.

We are fortunate that Wat Kham Chanot is one of those places a few kilometers from our home.


Naga Fireballs

Wax Naga On Float for Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival

This year the Boong Fai Phaya Nak Festival was 18 - 19 October.  This festival celebrates the end of Vassa, the Buddhist Rain Retreat also sometimes referred to as Buddhist Lent, and is also the time of the year when there is a natural or perhaps supernatural phenomenon in Northeast Thailand along the Mekong River.

The Lao Loum people of Lao People's Democratic Republic and their cousins, the ethnic Lao of Isaan, revere a mythological creature, the Naga.  It is believed by many people that the Naga is a giant serpent that lives and rules in the water underworld.  The King of the Nagas had once fought on behalf of Buddha in a war with the King of the Sky.

The Naga was rewarded for his service to Buddha by being made guardians.  In Northeast Thailand and in Laos you will often find Nagas guarding the entrances to Buddhist temples.  The Naga are also often depicted as a seven headed King Cobra spread out over the head of a seated Buddha.  This recognizes the legend that once when the Buddha was meditating, a severe storm occurred.  The Naga rose up and fanned out over the meditating Buddha to protect and shelter him from the storm.

The Naga was devoted to Buddha and had the ability to shape shift - change its appearance.  In perhaps an early case of stalking, the Naga shifted into a human being so that he could follow Buddha and listen to his teachings.  At one point, the Naga, as a man, entered into the process to become a Bhikkhus (ordained Monk).  Unfortunately for him, one night while sleeping, he shape shifted back into a Naga.  Even more unfortunately another Monk witnessed the transformation and informed the Buddha.  The Buddha told the Naga that he could not be a Monk because he was not of this world (human). To prevent a recurrence of the problem, all men as part of their ordination ritual are asked if they are a human.

Even though he could not be a Monk, the Naga continued in his devotion to Buddha and his image is often used in local Wats of both Isaan and Laos.

Naga Fountain at Wat Phra That Choeng Chum
Sakon Nakhon, Thailand

Naga Statue At Wat Suwaneen Gindalam
Sakon Nakhon, Thailand

One time when Buddha was returning to this world at the end of Vassa after having been teaching in Buddhist Heaven, all creatures were happy and celebrated the Buddha's return.  The Nagas showed their happiness by releasing fire balls.

Near Nong Khai, more specifically Phon Phisai, the release of fireballs from the Mekong River and lesser bodies of water commemorates that long ago time when the Buddha returned at the end of Vassa.

This year I had every intention of attending the Boong Fai Phaya Nak Festival.  During our first visit to the festival we had not seen any fireballs.  I wanted to give it another shot.  However we did not have time to attend.  After our visit to the Sakhon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival we returned home on 18 October for Duang to attend her third (remember how significant "3" is in Buddhism) and last women's retreat at Wat Ban Mat.  After spending most of the night chanting, worshiping, and listening to sermons, Duang was too tired to battle the crowds or to stay up late another night.  That was no problem - there is always next year or even the year after that.

However I did see some Naga fireballs this year ... sort of.  On our first night in Sakon Nakhon we went down to Ming Muang Ground where many the wax castle floats were being staged.

One of the smaller carts had a Naga motif.  Photographing the wax castles was very difficult.  There were many tall spotlights illuminating the area.  Many portable lights were also set up by participants to illuminate their floats so that necessary repairs or adjustments could be made.  In addition to the light pollution, there were thousands of people milling  about often posing in front of the floats.

The conditions, while challenging, offered some opportunities ... some unique opportunities if you were patient and a bit creative.  I recognized such a situation with the Naga motif float.  By walking, squatting, and twisting in a proper combination, the background lights could be aligned to appear to be fireballs being emitted by the Naga.

The late 20th century philosopher and song writer, Mick Jagger, wrote and sang "You can't always get what you want. But if you just try sometime you find You get what you need".  This is sound advice for life as well as for photography.

Happiness and contentment are often given to you.  But if you are able to adapt and make use of what is available, you can often be happy and content.

Whining, complaining, and bemoaning your situation will often only make yourself and those about you miserable.

Naga - The Guardians

A Naga Guards the Entrance to Wat Si Bunruang 

Isaan is a very special place here in Thailand.  Readers of this blog have some idea about the people, beliefs, festivals, and places that make this area so interesting and special.

We are in the midst of Vassa (Buddhist Lent, Buddhist Rain Retreat).  The 90 day period of Vassa will end on Wan Awk Phansa (Wan Ok Phansa, Wan Awk Phansa), 19 October.  The end of Vassa is a time for merit making and celebration throughout Isaan.

It is also time for a very special and unique cultural event - Bang Fai Phaya Nak just north of us in Nong Khai Province along the banks of the mighty Mekong River.  In this area of Thailand the Mekong River separates Thailand from the Lao People's Democratic Republic as well as the ethnic Lao Loum people.

This year the Bang Fai Phaya Nak Festival will be 18 - 19 October.  The festival celebrates a local phenomenon of glowing balls of light that rise from the depths of the water into the night sky before disappearing.  This phenomenon are most reported during the full moon of Wan Ok Phansa, the last day of the Buddhist Rain Retreat.

A Lighted Ship Floats Down The Mekong River During Bang Fai Phaya Nak

The celebration occurs on both sides of the Mekong River, Northeast Thailand and Laos sharing a common heritage and culture.

The legend that explains the fireballs is that the they are caused by a large serpent, Naga (Phaya Naga) that lives in the river.

Naga is a mythological deity that takes the form a a very great snake.  Nagas are found in the traditions and legends of Hinduism as well as in Buddhism.  I have written before about the amalgamation of Animist, Hindu and Buddhist beliefs and traditions here in Isaan.  The area was once Animist before Hindu and then Buddhist believers arrived.  Today in Isaan traditions and beliefs from all three remain a very strong part of not only the culture but of individual daily life.

Back in May, I wrote a blog about the Bun Bang Fai Festival - the festival in which rockets are fired into the air at the start of the monsoonal rain season here in Isaan and neighboring Lao.

http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2013/05/ban-that-rocket-launches.html

The tradition of firing the rockets is rooted in the Buddhist mythology in which Nagas play a large roll.

A Long time ago, during one of Buddha's many reincarnations, this time as a toad, the rain god (King of the Sky), Phaya Tan  (Taen) was angry with the people and animals. Buddha ( Phaya Khang Khok)'s, sermons were drawing people and creatures from earth and sky away from the King of the Sky.  He decided to punish them by withholding the necessary life giving and sustaining rains.  After seven years, seven months, and seven days of drought, the surviving people along with the animals got together and consulted with Buddha.  After much deliberations, they decided that Phaya Nak (Naga), the giant snake, would lead them in war against the rain god, Phaya Tan.  Phaya Tan defeated the giant snake and his troops.  After eventually overcoming Phaya Tan, Buddha rewarded  Phaya Nak (Naga) for his loyalty as well as service with the honor of being guardians.

Naga At Entrance to Sala Pha Bang, Royal Palace Luang Prabang LPDR

There is also another Buddhist legend involving nagas or snakes.  Today, young man who are participating in the ritual of becoming a novice Monk, after renouncing their worldly goods, are considered to be a "naga".

When Buddha was walking around preaching and teaching his disciples, Naga The Serpent King (Phaya Nak) took on human form, asked to become a Monk, and followed Buddha around listening to the sermons.

One day the naga fell asleep and reverted back to his snake form. Buddha told him that he could not be a Monk because he was not of this world - only humans could be a Monk. The naga agreed to leave the Sanga (religious community of Monks) but requested a favor. He asked Buddha that all young men who are about to be ordained as Monks be called "nagas". Buddha agreed.

To prevent a recurrence of this incident, all young men as part of their ordination are asked if they are human. Phaya Nak, despite leaving the monkhood, continued his devotion to Buddha and is often depicted in art as the seven headed cobra shielding Buddha from the rain.

Later on Buddha was traveling to perform a sermon during Vassa in the second heaven for Buddha mothers and the angels.  When Vassa ended and Buddha was returning to Earth, Phaya Nak and his followers made offerings and issued fireballs to welcome his return.  Since that time, at the end of Vassa fireballs rise from the Mekong although I did not see any when we attended Bang Fai Phaya Nak in 2009. The fact that I did not see them does not mean that they did not exist.  There have been times when others standing next to me, have seen "Phii" (ghosts, spirits) that I did not see
 and my camera did not capture - all more the reason that we hope to attend this year's festival.

Seven Headed Naga Guards Entrance to Sala Pha Bang, Royal Palace Luang Prabang LPDR



The Royal Barge "Anantanagaraj" - Seven Headed Naga Bow

Seven Headed Naga Guarding the Entrance to Wat Phra That Choeng Chum
Sakon Nakhon, Thailand

In our travels along the roads of this area, we became aware of a very interesting Wat in the village of Ban Kho Noi.  I have intended to photograph the Wat's grounds but it was not until two days ago that I had my camera and the weather was good.

Main Entrance to Wat Si Bunruang

I find Wat Si Bunruang very interesting because of the statues located at the entrance gate, entrance road and along the the front perimeter wall of the facility.  Two large and very colorful Nagas flank the ornate gateway to the Wat, their heads rising up at the entrance and their thick blue boodies undulating along the top of the wall to their up raised tails some eight meters away.  Along the front perimeter wall and alongside the driveway into the Wat are several thepanom (thep phanom), Thai angels.

Inside of the platform that supported each thepanom was a internal space for the storage of bones.  Many of the platforms had the opening to the reliquary was sealed with a plaque which included a photograph as well as information about the deceased person.

The encounters with the Naga of Wat Si Bunruang and researching this blog, has piqued my curiousity to attend Bun Bang Fai Phaya Nak next month.  I have check with Duang and, as usual, she is prepared to go on anther of my forays into the culture of Isaan.  Perhaps this year we will actually get to see the fireballs.

I have also got her to buy into attending this year's Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival which we attended last year.  Same same but different?  I think so.



Kok Sa-nga, King Cobra Village

Kok Sa-nga Resident Fights A King Cobra

About two weeks ago, I watched a very interesting National Geographic documentary titled "Hiss of Death" from 2004.  The program dealt with a small village in Northern Thailand where King Cobras are kept as pets and used in local shows.  As it turned out the village, Kok Sa-nga, is located in Isaan outside of Khoen Kaen which is 90 minutes south of our home in Udonthani.  Much of the program dealt with a young 8 year old boy, "Touk", who wanted to be a snake fighter like his uncle, Khun Tongkum.

In 1951 a man named Khun Ken Yongla from Kok Sa-nga discovered an herbal remedy for poisonous snake bites.  He prepared the medicine and sold it to local people who were happy with the product.  Mr Yongla went door to door selling his remedy.  To increase sales, he decided to bring a snake in a wooden box with him as he went from village to village.  As people gathered around to look at his cobra, he would market his product.  Even today traveling medicine or "snake oil" shows ply the back roads of Isaan.  I wrote of one such experience in Tahsang Village over a year ago in my blog
http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2009/09/snake-oil-salesman-health-care.html  Originally Khun Ken used a spitting cobra in his marketing strategy but after 6 (!!) years he changed over to using a King Cobra which does not spit its poison.  The King Cobra has to strike in order to utilize its venom.  This makes it safer for the audience.  Khun Ken used to take his children with him out into the countryside on his sales trips.  He developed a wide reputation for his skill in handling snakes.

In 1982 the Tourism Authority of Thailand investigated reports dealing with Khun Ken and Kok Sa-nga Village.  They found that over 200 King Cobras were kept as pets in the village.  It was during 1982 that the King Cobra Club of Thailand was founded at the local Buddhist Temple - Wat Srithumma.

The program was fascinating and with the village being rather close to our home, I decided that we needed to visit the place.  As is standard operating procedure for planning our trips, I researched the location on the Internet.  I found directions to the village as well as more information about the program.  I decided to go on a weekend because village school children take part in the shows when they are not attending school.  My research also indicated that the best time to visit was during Thai New Years (Songkran - Mid April) when there was a large celebration.  Since the village was not far away, I decided to visit it now to determine if it was worthwhile to visit during Songkran.

We located the village with no problem at all.  From Udonthani we took Highway 2 south towards Khoen Kaen.  About 35 km north of Khoen Kaen, we exited left onto Highway 2039 towards Nam Phong.  At 14 KM from Highway 2 there is a narrow dirt road on the right that leads 600 meters into Kok Sa-nga.  You take the first left in the village and the first of the snake shows is 1/2 Km on the left.

There are two venues for snake fighting in Kok Sa-nga.  The first one that you encounter is a private enterprise.  The second one which is located about 200 meters further down the road at Wat Srithumma is run by the King Cobra Club of Thailand and receives some government support.  Having been to both shows, with both shows not charging admission, with both shows seeking donations, and with both shows lasting about 20 minutes each, I recommend that people visit both locations.  Both locations also allow photography including the use of a flash.

Our first stop was at the private enterprise.  There appears to be no formal show times.  We had arrived around 11:00 A.M. and were in no hurry or on any schedule.  I was content to just sit around and watch the local residents doing their thing.  My photography is "documentary" style so I do not necessarily have to have a staged event to take pictures that I seek.


A Snake Fighter Kisses The Head of a King Cobra

In front of the show pavilion there were booths that sold snacks, drinks, souvenirs, clothing items, and herbal "medicines".  There is limited parking in front of the pavilion with additional parking across the street.  There were not many visitors on the day of our visit.  We waited about five minutes for the start of the show. The performers congregate around and seem to perform so that visitors do not have to wait very long.

Both shows commence with young girls dancing to Mahlam Lao music.  Midway through their dance, pythons are draped over their shoulders.  After awhile dancing with the snakes the girls place the snake's head in their mouth.  Pythons are none poisonous however as I watched I could not help to be somewhat concerned about bacteria on the snakes getting into the dancer's body.


Kok Sa-nga Man With King Cobra In His Mouth


After the dance, older men fight King Cobras.  At the private show, the man was more violent as well as aggressive with the snake.  He used his fists and feet to actually touch the snake.  At the second venue, the man resorted to more shadow boxing type movements to illicit strikes from the cobra.  Both techniques were interesting to observe.

Man Versus King Cobra

When the older men were completed, a young boy fights snakes but not King Cobras.  The snakes that the young boys fight are extremely quick and aggressive.

Touk, now 14 years old, Fights A Snake

At the King Cobra Club of Thailand we were greeted just as enthusiastically as we had been at the private club.  I immediately recognized Touk from the National Geographic program.  He is now 14 years old and continuing to learn his uncle's trade of snake fighting.  I did not see or if he was there I did not recognize his uncle Khun Tongkum.

Touk The Snake Fighter

Touk and the Other School Aged Performers of the King Cobra Club of Thailand

This Young Girl Loved to be Photographed



King Cobra Club of Thailand Performer

After the show we stayed around to talk with the villagers.  They were as interested in learning about us as we were in learning about them.  I took photographs of the young performers while Duang continued chatting with the villagers.  Here in Isaan, people never seem to be at a loss for words.
Prior to leaving, the villagers placed two pythons over my neck and shoulders.  I made sure that the villagers had not told the snakes that I had eaten python when I lived in Vietnam.  They had a good laugh.  We all had a good laugh when Duang overcame her fear and posed with one of the pythons over her neck.


Brave Duangchan Holding a Python - Her First

We enjoyed our visit and we will return in April for the large celebration.  We were pleased to have witnessed another unique aspect of life here in Isaan.

Young Kok Sa-nga Villager Dances to Mahlam Lao Music As She Heads Home