Alms - Not A Simple Matter

A Woman Drops Sticky Rice Into Monk's Bowl

Many things in life are not as simple as they first appear and there are times when things are not exactly as we originally perceived them to be.

Our perceptions of reality are heavily influenced by our personal experiences and our cultural bias.  As long as we remain within our familiar boundaries and culture, there is usually not a big problem or an issue.  However when we are exposed to different cultures, misinterpretations and misconceptions can create problems or even conflict.  Seeing two men holding hands as they walked after perhaps kissing each other on the cheek in Groton, Connecticut would most be perceived as two homosexuals making a scene however in many other cultures such behavior would be merely interpreted as two friends walking and greeting each other like every one does without any sexual connotations.  It is simply a matter of personal experience and cultural bias heavily influencing one's processing of an observation.  The facts are the same but our sense of reality can vary greatly.

Hopefully as we gain more education, more experience, and are exposed to more cultures, we become more aware of how reality can not necessarily be what we first were tempted to believe. This will provide greater opportunities for understanding and reduce conflicts by allowing us to question and further investigate what we perceive.

Living here in Isaan, there are plenty of situations that easily lend themselves to misinterpretation.

One of the rituals that is often is misinterpreted by Westerners is the morning alms walk by Buddhist Monks and the giving of food to Monks.

People may believe that the Monks are begging for food.

People may think that the Monks are rude by not thanking people for the food.

People may thinking that the people have pity on the Monks.

Buddha said that there were four things necessary in life.  They were clothing, food, shelter, and medicine.

Buddha suggested that the Monks receive their food for their single meal of the day from the morning alms walk.  Depending upon daily alms reminds the Monks as well as the lay people of their dependence upon each other.  It also prevents the Monks from becoming too isolated  from the lay community.

During the alms walk or making themselves available for alms, as in the case of forest Monks, the Monks are not begging for food.  They are not seeking anything.  They are making themselves available to receive  whatever alms the lay people want to give.

Bhikkhus (ordained male Monks) have many rules that they must follow.  One set of the rules, 75 related to daily conduct are contained in the Sekhiya Training Guidelines.  Some of the Sekhiya rules regarding alms food are:

     "I will receive alms food appreciatively"  The alms bowl is to be held on the arm and in front with a  respectful and appreciative attitude.  Food can not be accepted with a look of disgust.

     "When receiving alms food, I will focus my attention on the bowl"  This is why the Monk does not look at the person offering the food when accepting the food.  He is concentrating on properly receiving the offering.

     "I will not receive more than one ration of curry for every three rations of rice" This rule helps to prevent bhikkhus from becoming too fond of fancy foods and reminds them of their simple life.

     "I will eat a ration of one part of curry to three parts of rice"  A Monk (bhikkhu) has to prepare  each mouthful by mixing curry and rice in the proper proportions.

    "I will accept food in proportion to the bowl, without exceeding its inner rim"  This rule prevents food from falling on the ground and being wasted.

     "Eat alms food attentively"  When eating the Monk is to keep his attention on the bowl or plate.  He  must not look around but keep his gaze attentively on the contents of his bowl or plate

     "Not eat by placing large morsels in the mouth"  A mouthful can not be larger than a peacock's egg.

     "Eat the food one after the other, without rejecting any."  A Monk must eat or serve himself just the way the food portions present themselves.  He can not start in the middle.  He starts from the side closest to him and continues taking food from that side without starting a new side.

There are a few other rules related to Monks eating which I have not included in this blog.  The rules that I have shared give a good indication that the matter of eating is no simple matter for Monks.

There are also rules for offering food to bhikkhus by lay people.

There are two main considerations when offering food to Monks.

The first major consideration is that a Monk can not eat anything that is not offered to them.  They are only allowed to take water and tooth cleaning sticks that are not given to them.

The rules for properly offering alms, food or medicine, to bhikkhus are:

     It must be given by means of the body (offered by the hand) or by something attached to the    body (examples - a spoon, a tray, a plate) or by throwing ( example - dropping a lump of sticky        rice into the Monk's bowl)

     It must be given so that the donor and the Monk are within arms reach (approximately 1.25 meters, 4 feet) of each other.

     It must be received by means of the body (received in the Monk's hand) or by something attached to the Monk's body (examples - Monk's alms bowl, Monk's receiving cloth).

     The offered food can not be so heavy that an average man can not lift it.  Here in Isaan it is acceptable to slid the food along the floor to the Monk's hands.

     The donor has to actually first move the food or food tray towards the Monk before the Monk can accept it.  It is very important that the fact that the food is being offered rather than asked for be clearly established.

Although it is not a rule, here in Isaan it is traditional that the donor make a gesture of respect when making the offering.

Another tradition here, is that the donor must be barefoot to properly make offerings to the Monks.  This is not a consideration when making the offerings inside of a building since you remove your shoes before entering.  However if you go outside along a road or sidewalk where Monks pass by on their morning alms walk, you need to remember to first remove your shoes or, more likely, your flip flops.

Man Makes Gesture of respect Before Offering Sticky Rice to Monk

The donors of the alms earn merit by offering without thinking of the benefits to themselves or by having pity on the Monks.  Merit is earned through the goodness of the act rather than the expected consequences or motivations of the act.

Woman Tosses Lump of Sticky Rice Into Monk's Bowl

The second major consideration for offering food to a Monk, actually a major consideration for anything involving a Monk, is that a Monk can not touch or be touched by a female.  Great care must be taken to eliminate the possibility of a monk touching a woman.  Often men will act as an intermediary in the transfer of objects between a woman and a Monk.  Another prevention is the use of a cloth.  The Monk will place a cloth on the floor.  The woman will place the object on the cloth and the Monk will pull the cloth to him to remove the object.  The process is reversed when the Monk gives something to a woman.  The last solution is to drop things into the hand or container held by the Monk or more likely into the hand of the woman.

Bhikkhus can only eat from dawn to noon. The conservative school of Theravada Buddhism in Thailand, Dhammayuttika Nikaya requires Bhikkhus to have only one meal a day between dawn and noon whereas the more liberal school, Maha Nikaya, allows its bhikkhus to have two meals between dawn and noon.

Monks are not allowed to store foods for another day.  This rule reinforces the concept of the dependence of the bhikkhus and lay people upon each other, supports the mendicant ideal of monastic living, and prevents Monks from becoming attached to their favorite tastes.

Not being able to store food creates a situation.  Monks can not deny people the opportunity to make merit so quite often, actually every time that I have been in attendance, there is a surplus of food, food that Monks can not keep for another day be it rainy or sunny.  There are two solutions to this situation.

Monks Giving Young Boy Surplus Rice

The first solution is for the Monks to give away extra food that they are offered on their morning alms walk.  In Luang Prabang, Lao People's Democratic Republic, tourists participate in the Tak Bart ritual, each of them placing a hand full of cooked sticky rice in the bowl of each Monk as they walk along one of the main streets in the city.  Since the street is lined with tourists positioned shoulder to shoulder, the Monk's bowl is quickly filled.  To allow other tourists and residents, further along the route, to participate and make merit. periodically the Monks will remove some of the rice from their bowl and give it to poor children along the route or the poor children who follow along with them.

The second solution takes place in the Wats of villages and cities where people bring food offerings to the Monks. Plates of fruits, fish, curries, and other items along with the ubiquitous cooked sticky rice are offered to the Monks.  The Monks take portions and either place them in their bowl or on their plates.  What is not taken by the Monks is removed from the raised area, where they are seated on the floor, and placed on the floor where the lay people are sitting on the floor.

Lay People, Women, Having Community Morning Meal

Once the Monks have started to eat, the lay people have a community meal of the surplus food.  It is a very friendly event where everyone is invited and encouraged to participate whether they are Buddhists or not.  Typically the men and women sit in separate groups if not areas to eat - just as they do during merit making rituals.  If I am not walking or crawling around taking photos, I sit with Duang along with the other women.  Either because I am a foreigner or the Lao Loum people are so tolerant no one has ever made and issue of it.  I do it because Duang is able to explain things to me as well as to translate for me.  I have always been made to feel welcomed and comfortable at these gatherings.

Lay People, Men, Having Community Morning Meal

The lay people do more than eat at these morning gatherings.  They are also gossiping about all kinds of subjects and people.  There is a great deal of noise and considerable laughing as well as joking.  It is obvious that the community and family bonds are being strengthened during these Buddhist pot luck meals.  here in Isaan, family and community bonds are quite often one and the same.  The villages are often very small and comprised of a single extended family.  I estimate that 80% of Tahsang Village is comprised of Duang's relatives.

Besides the strengthening of community and family bonds, the sharing of surplus food with the Monks provides a vital service - it feeds the poor.  You do not have to offer food or make any offerings to the Monks to participate in the community meal.  When she was a young mother, Duangchan was very poor. She and her two young children depended upon these communal meals for nourishment.

After the lay people have completed eating, any food that is left over is placed in plastic bags for people to take home with them.

What I have written about in this blog is true.  It is the way that things are supposed to be.  It may not necessarily be the way that things always are.  There is a popular acronym here in Thailand "TIT" - This Is Thailand.  It is used to explain what often is not easily explained or what may be difficult to accept.  It is our version of "It is what it is".  Well there probably should be a similar acronym "TIB" - This Is Buddhism.

Due to the tolerance of Buddhism and the melding of Buddhism into previous existing religions in a particular area or culture, there are often variations and diversity in specific practices of what is referred to as "Buddhism".  I am certain that some readers will have different specific experiences with alms giving as well as alms food.  That is not to say that they are wrong or that I am wrong.  It is just a different experience in a very diverse world.

What I have written is what I have experienced, researched and found to agree with what I have observed, and have confirmed with my ethnic Lao wife. This is one perspective on a culture with many perspectives - which, to me, makes it all that more interesting, fascinating, and stimulating.

Special Merit Making

Last week we drove out into the countryside to visit and make merit with the forest Monk.

Duang had learned of the forest Monk from a friend of a friend. That is often the way that news and reputations travel here in Isaan.  Many Monks have the reputation for being able to cure people, predict the future, determine lottery winning numbers, cure alcohol and/or drug abuse, exorcise evil spirits, and many other skills.  This really has nothing at all to do with Buddhism.  It is not the way that Buddhism is supposed to be.  However just as in any other place  in the world or in any other religion, there is the way that things are supposed to be and then there are the ways that things actually are.

Animist Spirit House Plays Central Role At Buddhist Wat

Originally the peoples of Thailand were Animists, believing in spirits and the power of spirits to affect their life.  Hinduism then arrived in Siam and rather than getting rid of the old beliefs and practices, the peoples just incorporated the new religion into their cultures.  Later Buddhism arrived and just as was the case with Hinduism, the new religion was incorporated into the previous religions.  Today the influences and elements of all three religions play a very meaningful daily role in the Lao Loum culture.

One of the traits that I was first impressed about Duang when I first met her was her spirituality.  Now after seven years of being with her and witnessing her faith as well as seeing her live her faith every day, I am even more impressed and convinced.

Duang had heard from her friend's friend about the ability of the forest Monk to help people.  We ended up taking both of the women with us to visit the forest Monk.  Duang's stomach has been acting up again so she wanted to consult and make merit to alleviate her condition.  She is also consulting with doctors at the nearby military hospital too - much to my relief and insistence.

Duang's friends also believed that for her upcoming birthday, she should participate in special merit making to bring her good fortune and good luck.

We arrived at Wat Ban Mat in time to participate in the typical morning merit making ritual of offering food to the Monk.  Since he lives in a very rural location, the forest Monk does not go on a daily alms walk.  The people bring food to him at his primitive Wat.

Duang Lights Candles Before Making Offerings

After the people had made their food offerings to the Monk, there was a ritual that involved chanting by both the Monk and lay people.  Part of the ritual involved pouring water into a container while the Monk chanted.  This is a common ritual that to my understanding transfers the merit making to the spirits of departed family members through the flowing of the water.  After the ritual is completed the lay people respectfully pour the water from their individual containers on the base of the trees and plants of the Wat's grounds.  As the people pour the water on the ground they say prayers for the nourishment of the spirits that dwell within the trees and plants.

After the conclusion of the ritual involved with offering the Monk food and after he had eaten his one meal of the day, Duang's offerings of 52 fresh flowers, rice, 52 large candles, some coins, a small square of gold foil, small yellow birthday cake candles, 52 joss (incense) sticks, Jasmine buds, and a white envelope with a cash offering, all topped by a passport sized photograph of Duangchan was relocated from the shrine inside the primitive sala, where the food offerings were made, to an outside shrine adjacent to the sala.  The offerings were placed on sahts that had been laid upon the concrete slab in front of the shrine.

Duang's Special Offerings Placed Before Shrine

The forest Monk walked over to the outside shrine and after bowing his head to the ground twice, commenced the special merit making ritual by setting seven of the 52 larger pale orange candles into a brass vessel in the shape of the Royal Barge, Subanahongsa (Golden Swan) the mythological swan like steed of the Hindu god Brahma.  The first candle was lit using a cigarette lighter.  Subsequent candles were lit using a previously lit candle first lighting the wick and then melting some of the bottom before placing it the brass holder. He then ignited 52 joss sticks (incense), one for each of Duang's fifty years (she is actually 49 in US terms but in Thailand your birthday marks the end of your year so the day after your birthday you are considered already a year older i.e. day after your first birthday you are in your second year of life)  plus one for Buddha and one for the teachings of Buddha (Dhamma) using lighted candles. This was the reasoning behind the 52 flowers and larger candles. There is also more to the symbolism of the offerings than just the number of them.  Duang was born on 17 October 1963 which was a Thursday.  Here in Thailand there is a color associated with each day of the week.  The color for Thursday is "Orange".  The color of the HRH King Rama XI is"Yellow" because he was born on a Saturday.  Often in Thailand you will see people wearing a shirt or a blouse of the appropriate color for the day of the week.

Duang's offering of flowers was also supposed to coincide with the color of her birth date.  However orange flowers are difficult to find, the forest Monk had told Duang in a previous consultation that "pale pink" flowers would be acceptable for her special merit making related to her upcoming birthday.

Monk Igniting 52 Joss Sticks

Tamping Out The Joss Stick Flames

Once the flames of the Joss sticks had torch like intensity, the forest Monk tamped out the fire on some cinder blocks conveniently located arm's distance from his location in front of  "Seated Buddha".  He then gave Duang the smoldering sticks that wafted light pungent grey smoke into the still late morning air by placing them on a ceramic plate in front of her.  He, as a Monk, has a vow to not touch women, so transfers of items between women and Monks is achieved using a plate, tray, cloth, by tossing/dropping or male intermediary.

As Duang was making her offering of the incense, the Monk was busy placing her offering of fresh carnations on each side of the shrine, along with the other offerings.  Once Duang had finished offering the incense, she stuck them into a sand filled ceramic bowl to the right of the Monk.

Sii Sein (cotton string) Connects Monk and Lay People in a Great Circle

The forest Monk then unraveled some cotton string from a bobbin, much like butcher's string, and strung it out in a great circle passing from the bobbin in an offering plate placed on an offering tray, through the hands of Duang's friends.  The sii sein is used in connection with special merit making rituals.  Although the cotton string is used in many events, it is only considered to be sii sein when used by a Monk at funerals, special Buddhist holidays, and special merit making rituals.

After the conclusion of Duang's special merit making ritual, the forest Monk returned to the concrete raised

platform where he had  eaten his meal of the day.  From this position he socialized with the lay people.  The people asked him for his opinion and advice regarding all types of family issues such as jobs, health, children problems, and good numbers for the upcoming lottery that afternoon.  The forest Monk would tell them of his dreams and contemplate what would be best for each person.

Duang went and played the lottery using the numbers that he had given.  Things got very exciting at our home around 4:15 P.M. when a relative called with the winning numbers - Duang had won 10,000 Baht ($330 USD)!  I was very happy for her and relished seeing her excitement.

Like so often it happens here in Isaan, I am left wondering.  I don't necessarily believe all that I write about.  I may also not always understand what I have observed and documented.  However, I always find it interesting and often, fascinating.

I seem to be learning and experiencing something new just about every day.  That is what makes life so interesting and keeps the passion going ... even after many years.

Forest Monk

Forest Monk Performing Merit Making Ritual

Yesterday, we picked up two of Duang's friends from Udonthani and drove out into the countryside to pay a visit to a special Monk.

We drove out deep into the countryside much of it along a heavily potholed dirt road bordered on both sides by flooded rice paddies, wood lots, and rubber plantations.  Widely scattered about the countryside were solitary humble houses.

Our journey was to visit a special Monk.  Here in Isaan there are Monks renowned for their ability to heal people, to for tell the future, to determine auspicious days for life events such as getting marred or moving into a new home, and to exorcise evil spirits.  Some of the Monks are often consulted regarding selecting numbers for the various lotteries.

The Monk  that we were going to see had helped the woman that we were taking with us.  She is an old Mor Lam entertainer,  She used to perform in shows with Duang's father and care for Duang when Duang was a child. At one point she had mental problems and did not have a home.  She visited the Monk and made merit.  She is now cured and has a home.

The Monk lives out in very rural location in the Thai Forest Tradition.  The Thai Forest Tradition is part of Thai Theravada Buddhism where practitioners live in remote areas that serve as spiritual practice and training grounds.  Apart from the distractions of modern society, the Monks are better situated to meditate.

Theravada Buddhism in Thailand is comprised of two main orders:  Maha Nikaya and Dhammayuttika Nikaya.  Maha Nikaya is the largest as well as the oldest monastic order.

Dhammayuttika Nikaya was founded in 1833 by HRH Prince Mongkut, who later became Rama IV one of Thailand's most revered Kings.  The Dhammayuttika Nikaya is more strict in adherence to the Vinya, rules orally passed down from Buddha to his disciples.

Adherents of Dhammayuttika practice Buddhism and work to have a lifestyle like Buddha and his early disciples.  The Monks are referred to as "Forest Monks" because they live in forests just as the historical Buddha who often lived in the forests both during his spiritual quest and later.

I have written about the "Inside" and "Outside" Wats in Tahsang Village.  The difference between the two temples is that the "Inside" Wat is Maha Nikaya whereas the "Outside" Wat is Dhammayuttika Nikaya.  Duang prefers the Dhammayuttika Nikaya practice so we attend most of the events at the "outside" Wat but she is not adverse to attending rituals at the "Inside" Wat - another example of tolerance in Thailand and a demonstration of her adherence to the tenets of Buddhism.

Shrine to Elders of the Forest Monk Tradition

A very important aspect of the Forest Tradition is veneration for older Monks.  In the primitive sala of this Wat, the left shrine consisted of several photographs of elder Monks rather the typical large statue of Buddha in Maha Nikaya Wats.

Woman Offering Sticky Rice to Monk For His Single Daily Meal

Man Preparing to Offer More Sticky Rice to Monk

We arrived at the primitive Wat at 10:00 A.M., in time for the daily merit making ritual of offering food to the Monk for his single meal of the day which had to be consumed by Noon.

Monk Selecting the Food that He Will Eat

The sala where a majority of the merit making rituals are performed was very simple.  It was comprised of a concrete slab floor on which sahts (woven reed mats) were rolled out on for participants.  An elevated simple concrete platform was at one end of the sala. 

Monk Performing Ritual Associated With Accepting Food Offerings

The Monk sat on the raised platform to ensure that, in recognition of his higher status in this life, he was situated above the laypeople.  Three sides of the elevated platform were wrapped with stiff plastic nursery cloth - not the soft fabric that would be used in a baby's bedroom but the coarse woven plastic fabric used to shield plants from bright sunlight or to protect plants and their fruits from birds.  The partial enclosure offered some protection from winds.  Off to one side on the platform was a shrine.

At the other end of the sala, there was a simple table where rolled up sahts were stored. A breadbox sized heavy metal bell was suspended from the rafter at that same far end.

The paved area of the sala was covered with a bamboo pole and thatched paneled roof supported by six inch diameter (16 cm) wood columns cut from the surrounding forest.  To ensure more protection from the monsoonal rains, part of the roof was covered with a heavy vinyl  billboard poster - I believe from a previous election campaign.

Outside of the sala there were three spirit houses adorned with floral and food offerings.  There was also a large sheltered Seated Buddha statue.  There was also a very basic hut where the Monk slept.

Monk Showing Respect At Outdoor Shrine

In addition to participating in the merit making ritual of offering food to the forest Monk, Duang participated in a special merit making ritual along with the two other women ... but that will the subject of another blog; another day.

Making Pla thu

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 "Making Pla thu" is not a euphemism for one of man's favorite activities such as:  "banging", "humping", "doing it", "slapping uglies", "doing the horizontal mambo", and so many other colorful expressions. Making Pla thu is all about making a specialty food that is very popular here in Isaan.

If you go to the local markets, either morning or night markets, you will come upon one, if not several, vendors selling small diameter woven trays containing small silvery fish, "Pla thu" or "Pla thu Talay" (Talay is Thai for "beach" as in ocean beach)

In addition to the small, approximately 8 inch (200 mm) diameter woven baskets, the vendors also offer large baskets containing about 15 to 20 fish.

Pla thu is Short mackerel, Rastrelliger brachysoma, prepared in a certain manner. The fish populates the waters from Southeast Asia to Melanesia.

Duang's cousin, one of her 123, has a business outside of Tahsang Village.  The other day he called to inform Duang that they would be making Pla thu that day starting at 1:30 P.M.  He had called earlier to determine if I would be interested in taking pictures of the process - as if asking was necessary.  Of course!  I am always interested in exploring, learning and trying to understand all aspects of this culture that is so different from mine which I am familiar with.

Frozen Short Mackerel Imported from India

Under a threatening sky, Duang and I walked from the two lane highway that connects Tahsang Village to Kumphawapi, down the muddy narrow driveway to a new small cinder block home where the processing would take place.  On the side of the house was a good sized work area - concrete pavement covered with a sloped corrugated metal roof.  Beyond the covered work area, there were two large concrete urn shaped concrete containers which captured the run off from the roof during the frequent rains of the monsoon season.  This rain collection system is very common out in the villages of the Isaan countryside.  The rainwater is used for bathing, cooking, cleaning, and sanitary needs.  Bottled drinking water is purchased from local markets and established vendors who home deliver.

At the far end of the processing area there was a large propane burner, A frame structure, and several 15  kg portable propane gas bottles - identical to the one that we have under our kitchen counter for our cooking hub.  A very large aluminum kettle rested on top of the propane burner.

Adjacent to the fish processing area, there was a small pond that was surrounded by a fine mesh plastic netting that is often used in threshing rice to collect rice kernels that fall off the stalks that are handled in the process.  Inside of the fenced in pond, were various accoutrements associated with raising ducks and fish. Two separate narrow concrete drains built into the work area concrete paving and buried PVC pipes directed water and debris from the fish processing area into the pond.

We arrived early and neither Duang's cousin or his wife were there.  We got to meet the young couple that live in the house, maintain the property, and work for Duang's cousin.  In addition to daily wages they are allowed to stay in the house as part of their compensation.

Soon a middle-aged woman arrived on a motorbike. She put on a hat, apron, rubber boots and latex gloves before commencing to wash down the work area along with several large plastic tubs.  The water for washing down the equipment and work area came from a well in the back yard of the house.  Although the water came from a well it is not suitable for drinking or cooking.  Duang says that it has too much salt.  I suspect that the salt may actually be potash.  There is a very large potash deposit in the area.  There have been plans to exploit the deposits on a grand commercial scale but studies as well as permitting process have long delayed the start of construction.  No matter the reason, sodium chloride or potash content, the well water was only used for cleaning.  Water for cooking came from the concrete urns.

In a short while the middle aged woman was joined by the cousin's wife and the young couple.  At 1:30 P.M. the processing of the fish started.

The young man filled a large tub with water and added a large amount of salt to it stirring it with a plastic floor brush on the end of a wood handle.  The salt was not a refined table salt.  It was a raw local salt obtained from evaporating brine, obtained from wells, in shallow ponds under the unrelenting Isaan sun during the dry season.  The local salt was not pure white.  It was a myriad of pale neutral colors with square crystals ranging in sizes from 1 to 3 mm in dimension per side.

Into the freshly prepared brine mixture, he broke up the solid block of small fish that he removed from the plastic bag contained in the cardboard shipping box from India.  Using his bare hands he separated the individual frozen fish and placed them in the brine to thaw out.

They process fish everyday.  The day that I visited, Duang left shortly after we arrived to visit her family in Tahsang Village, the four person crew was going to process 90 kg of fish - roughly 200 pounds.  On other days they often process 150 kg of fish - 330 pounds. Some days they have to work until 8:00 P.M. to finish the work.  The frozen fish is purchased and delivered each day by a "big company" in nearby Kumphawapi. I am fairly certain that the fish is trucked up weekly or perhaps even daily from the Bangkok area.

The Fish Gutter At Work

Seated upon a very low plastic stool, with an inverted bucket underneath it for additional support, next to the thawing tub, the middle aged woman placed a large plastic bucket between her legs.  The white bucket was the type that you will often find in bakeries filled with shortening, jelly, or other ingredients.  You will also find these types of hard plastic buckets filled with wall joint taping compound in home improvement stores.  I don't know the origins of this bucket.  With a plastic colander, she would periodically scoop several fish out of the thawing bucket and place the filled colander over an empty bucket slightly to her left to collect the water draining from the fish.  As she selected each fish, she inspected it.  Out of the 200 pounds that she worked on, she rejected 4.  The rejected fish were dropped into the bucket located between her legs.  With a small knife like implement about the size of a paring knife - a roughly 120 degree curved tubular segment; sharp on one side with a handle on the other end.  In a single skillful, if not artful, movement she made a shallow incision behind the fish's head just slightly underneath the fish gill and eviscerated the fish, pulling the entrails through the opening and dropping them in the bucket between her legs.  The cleaned fish was then rinsed in a tub of water and placed in a plastic tub that had been placed on a very low concrete tiled table in front of her.

One of many fish eviscerated over two hours

Duang's cousin's wife and the wife of the young man, that was also working on the fish, sat on opposite sides of the low concrete tiled work table. To their side were plastic crates containing the open weaved bamboo baskets that the fish are sold in.  Their job was to selected the proper combination of cleaned fish to place in the bamboo baskets.  They selected fish to ensure that each basket contained roughly the same weight of fish.  Duang's cousin's wife used a plastic colander to scoop the cleaned fish out of the tub and dumped them on to the tiled work table.  The women would bend the heads of the fish to get them completely resting on the bottom of the basket.  As each basket was completed with fish, it was stacked up on the work table. When there were several filled baskets on the work table, the cousin's wife removed them and placed them on a large woven tray with long loop handles attached to it.

While this was going on, the young man was very busy doing all sorts of tasks.  It was very difficult to take a photo without his butt, or him bent over detracting form what I wanted to photograph.  However since I consider myself to be an environmental portrait photographer, I excuse my failures to be "capturing reality".

After setting up the first bunch of fish in the thawing tub, he filled the large aluminum kettle with water that he drew out of the concrete rain water urns.  He carefully measured some salt on a scale and dumped it into the almost completely filled kettle. He fired up the propane burner under the kettle and in a while, had a big pot of boiling water.  He used a very fine meshed paddle strainer to remove the scum on the top of the boiling water caused by the salt impurities.  He then added "Salt Vietnam". Duang's English description for MSG, and several bullion cubes to the kettle.  Once Duang had returned from her family visit, I asked her if the bullion cubes were shrimp or fish flavor. Well, it turned out that they were actually pork flavored.

Placing Baskets of Fish to be Boiled

When the flat baskets with the long loops were filled with 24 baskets of fish - 4 stacks of 6 baskets high. the young man placed a woven bamboo cover and a thick as well as heavy wood disk over the top of the stacks. He lifted them by hand using the long loop handles and lowered the assembly into the boiling water.  The cover and heavy wood disk kept the baskets of fish immersed in the boiling water.  The fish were boiled for a few minutes.  There was no timer or even a clock available to determine when the baskets were to be removed from the boiling brine solution.  I guess after doing this every day, you quickly develop instinctive sense when the fish are ready to be removed.  I was too busy photographing to time the boiling but it seemed to be around ten minutes to me.

Removing the Cooked Fish

When the fish were ready, after boiling for however long, the young man, against the backdrop of banana trees in the back yard and the clatter of heavy rains on the metal roof overhead, used a rope and a simple pulley attached to the A frame straddling the propane cooking station to remove the basket assembly.  A steel yoke shaped hook lifted the basket assembly by its long handles.  As he pulled on the line the heavy assembly emerged from the boiling cauldron in a cloud of billowing steam and a cascade of scalding brine falling back into the continuously boiling kettle.

Moving A Support Into Place

Just as the bottom of the basket assembly cleared the top of the kettle, the man slid two prepositioned sticks of wood underneath the raised assembly so that he could lower the basket assembly.  After removing the long loop handles from the steel yoke, the steaming basket assembly was placed on a metal tray against the exterior wall of the house to cool.

Steaming Hot Pla thu

After cooling off for a while, the fish basket assembly was placed inside of the home.

Pla thu Ready for Market

Everyone was completely busy the entire time that it took to process the fish.  While the baskets were boiling, the young man ensured that the fish to be cooked were kept moist by pouring water over them.  He also ensure that there was a constant supply of fish in the thawing tub.  The owner of the business, the cousin's wife, worked for as long, and just as hard as her three employees.  Whoops, I did not mention that she worked just as long as her employees. No, I did not.  I did not because it would not be true.  She actually works longer than her employees!  At 3:00 A.M. she was going to the market in Kumphawapi to set up her stall to sell the Pla thu.  Her husband loads up the truck, drives her to the market and unloads the baskets. She will remain at the market until she has sold out - around three hours.  Three hours to sell 200 pounds of fish before the sun rises?  Yes!  It has to do with the traditional marketing of food here in Thailand. From around 3:00 A.M. to 5:00 A.M. the morning markets are busy being stocked by the many small vendors.  The public starts to show up around 5:30 to 6:00 A.M.  Her pla thu for the most part is not sold one basket at a time to a housewife.  Most of her product is purchased by vendors who have stalls at smaller markets in the much smaller villages in the vicinity of Kumphawapi.  They purchase bulk quantities of the baskets to sell at their morning markets or in some cases - night markets.  Pla thu does not need to be refrigerated and can last up to two weeks without refrigeration.

After two hours the processing of fish was completed. After washing and cleaning everything, the employees were done for the day.

Here in Isaan as well as in Lao, the Lao people use a fermented fish sauce in cooking and on their food very much like Americans use Ketchup.  Pla Ra (Thai) or Paa daek (Lao) is fish that has been fermented at least six months.  It has a very strong and pungent odor. We or rather, Duang, keeps a container of it in the cabinet under our kitchen sink.  When we first moved into our house, I was upset one morning.  When I went into the kitchen, it smelled like the sewer had backed up into the room.  I was "somewhat" relieved when Duang told me that it was only the pla ra that her family had given us as a house warming gift.  I have actually vomited due to the stench of it - much to the amusement of my in-laws.  For some reason I have assumed that Pla ra or paa daek was made from sliced up fish and other ordinary ingredients.  That was until the other day at the making of pla thu.  Remember the middle aged woman eviscerating 200 pounds of fish.  When she had finished her 5 gallon bucket was almost completely filled with fish guts and fish shit.  The fish that had not passed QC inspection had also been tossed into the bucket.  She added a whole bunch of the raw salt and mixed it all thoroughly before placing a plastic sheet over it.  Later rice, sugar, pork bullion cubes, and MSG will be stirred in to get things going.  To say the least, I was appalled.  Duang kept reassuring me that it would be OK because it would be cooked and all the shit would go away.  I am not buying into that belief and will continue my boycott of pla ra or paa daek!

The Makings for Pla Ra, Paa daek

Through Duang, I determined that the cousin's wife pays 30 baht a day for her stall at the Kumphawapi Morning Market.  That is an expense of $1 a day.  I asked about taxes and fees that have to be paid to a government or governments for running a business.  Well there is a fee for having a business here - she pays 200 Baht ($6.66 US Dollars!) a YEAR to the government.

As for hiring people to work in her business, it is a private matter between her and her employees.  The free market determines wages other than a newly instituted minimum wage of 300 Baht ($10 USD) a day.  There is no withholding of a portion of wages for local, province or national taxes.  There is no reporting of wages. There are no requirements to keep and report safety and health statistics.  There is no unemployment insurance premiums to be collected or paid.  There is no requirement to provide any kind of insurances or benefits - it is a matter between the employee and employer.  The workers are paid in cash each day.

I was curious as to how and why the owner had decided to start a pla thu business.  It turned out that she had previously for two years at a big company that produced it.  She left to start her own business.

Here in Isaan, it is easy for a person to start a business and, if they choose, grow it to the point where there are some governmental requirements.  For me, having had started to look into starting a business in the USA for Duang to make traditional Lao clothing, this is very encouraging and refreshing.  I gave up after discovering 56 pages of regulations involved in importing cotton cloth into the USA.   Here the people are free to make a better living for themselves.  The government does not discourage or interfere with starting a small business.

Stopped In the Name of the Law

High School Students Perform Lao Traditional Dance

Thursday night, Duang and I drove out to Ban Nong Han to attend a big party where her brother was performing.

It turned out the the party was for the retirement of a long time public employee for the Sub-District.

My brother-in-law and his group were not the only entertainment for the evening.  We were pleasantly surprised to see the local high school troupe, Ban Chiang Witthaya School Silipin Tai Puan, that we enjoyed at a previous retirement party in Udonthani on 13 Sept were also performing.

High School Cultural Band Performing

The high school students play traditional music using traditional instruments and perform traditional Lao dances while wearing traditional costumes.  Apparently the troupe helps to support itself by hiring out for private functions.  It is good to see that the unique aspects of Lao Loum culture are maintained and celebrated by the younger generations.

We arrived at the party location at 6:30 P.M., in time to see the entire performance of the Ban Chiang Witthaya School.

There were quite a few presentations and speeches before Duang's brother got to perform.  I was confused as to what was going on in regards to the retirement festivities.  I had a pretty good understanding of the man who had retired.  After people made a speech about him, he was presented with an envelope or a colorful wrapped box.  He then presented the envelope or box to the person who had just finished speaking. That confused me.  I asked Duang about it and she said the man who was retiring gave the gift to the person who had talked nice about him.  It seems that in honor of the person who is retiring, people bought a gift for the retiree to give to the big bosses.  Hmmm ... I wonder if many of my liberal progressive friends would approve of such a means of wealth redistribution or what their comments would be.  The retire did receive some gifts and actually got to keep them.  I was telling Duang that in America when people retire they get to keep all the gifts.  But then again in America, the bride and her pay for the vast majority of the wedding rather than here in Thailand where the groom pays for the wedding and the bride's family spend it.

Duang's brother'st was his typical great show.  In addition to Lon and the band, there were four dancers, a male performer and a female performer.  Two of the dancers I recognized from a previous show last year. One of them apparently remembered me, too.  When she saw me photographing her, she did a couple of her dance moves that I had appreciated so much last year.

One year later, still kicking and thrusting to the music

The people at the party were very friendly which was not all that surprising.  The Lao Loum people are very friendly and hospitable.  I was offered alcoholic drinks several times.  Each time, I thanked the person and explained to them in Thai and gestures that I do not drink beer or whiskey when I am driving because I am afraid of the police.  One man had some difficulty understanding and I had to explain to him three times.  It was not that I could not explain it properly or clearly - he was just so loaded that he could not understand why any one would refuse a free drink.  The others who heard and understood me, seemed to think that I was a little paranoid.

We left the party at 11:00 P.M. to return to our home roughly 30 minutes to the west.  As we drove along Highway 22, a four lane divided thoroughfare that links Udonthani to Sakon Nakhon, Duang remarked about how few cars were on the road.  It was a fairly easy drive back to Udonthani if I don't dwell on the man stopped on his bicycle on the left side of the lane I was driving in rather than in the breakdown lane. Fortunately he was wearing light colored pants that I saw just as I came upon him.  Duang did not see him until I passed him.  I am also not dwelling on the broken down motorbike on the left side of the lane that we were in.  In was a good night in that, on the way home, there were no vehicles driving the wrong way or motorbikes passing us on the wrong side or on both sides simultaneously.

About 1 km (1/2 mile) from our home where the Ring Road 216 intersects with the main road to Bangkok, Highway 2, we came upon a scene up ahead.  Duang who does not drive at night did not understand what it was. I, perhaps because I am paranoid, knew exactly what we were headed for - A police DUI checkpoint.

Being a child of the 1950s, we used to play cops and robbers with the highlight of our play being the "cops" yelling "Stop in the name of the law ... or I will shoot"  I don't ever want to get into that type of predicament here in Thailand or even back in the USA.  I always err on the side of caution and slow down and become prepared to pull over and stop. Often it is confusing because the Thai Police are often not that demonstrative or assertive with their hand or flashlight signals as to what their intentions for me are.

Thursday night there was no confusion.  There were two check stations in the road that had been narrowed down to a single lane at a point where there was no opportunity for a u-turn or any other turn to avoid the check point.  The car in front was flagged over to the first and I was flagged into the second.  I rolled down my window as one of the two policemen approached the truck. When he saw me he was surprised and said "Oh, falang." (Oh a foreigner).  I don't believe there was any ill intent in his remark.  I suspect it was more along the lines of "Oh a foreigner, this could get difficult if he is drunk"  He then said "Alcohol" and pointed a flashlight shaped device at me.  I had to blow at the device.  In about 5 seconds there was a beep and the policeman said "Varry gud"  I told him in Thai that "No problem.  I do not drink beer or whiskey.  I am afraid of the police.  Police love falang too much.  200 baht, 300 baht".  "200 baht, 300 baht" ($6+, $5 USD) refers to a practice where foreigners get stopped for "speeding", driving in the right hand lane rather the left hand lane other than passing, or some other minor infraction or perceived infraction but the foreigner can pay a 200 or 300 baht "fine" on the spot and continue on their way.  In six years it has happened to me four times but not in the past two years.  The policeman started laughing and wished us a good night and sent us on our way.  I have no complaints - the police were doing their job politely and respectfully along with a sense of humor.

If you flunk the alcohol on your breadth test, you are given a formal breathalyzer test on the spot.  If the tests or tests confirm that you are driving impaired, you will spend the night in jail, go to court the next morning and pay a fine depending how badly you failed the breathalyzer test.  The typical punishment is around 10,000 baht fine ($330 USD), perform 30 hours community service, and have your car confiscated for 6 months. This may seem rather lenient, but I still would not to spend a night in any Thai jail.  There is also a kicker - if you are caught a second time, any where in Thailand, you will go to jail for 6 months.

You might avoid the breathalyzer tests by paying a negotiated "fine", but once the breathalyzer test(s) are administered, everything is documented and recorded with extremely unlikely chance to avoid the justice system.

Duang and I returned home smiling and laughing about our experience.  I was reminded of an old saying from the 60s "Just because your paranoid doesn't mean you are not right"  Yes I may have been overly paranoid, but the other night it was wonderful approaching a checkpoint with complete confidence and without any panic.

I am a guest in Thailand, allowed to stay in the country for one year at which time I have to apply for a years extension.  I enjoy my life here too much to complicate or risk it by doing something that is illegal and even worse doing something wrong which I have complete control over.

Nang Ai and Pha Daeng - A Warning to Squirrel Eaters

Nang Ai and Pha Daeng, Tambon Nongwha May 2013

Earlier this year, in May, Duang was contacted by one of her 96 cousins, who works for the local government, in regards to our participation in a local festival. Bun Bang Fei Tambon Nongwha was taking place on 19 to 20 May.

Early May in Isaan and neighboring Lao People's Democratic Republic, is the time for local festivals where homemade gun powder rockets are launched into the sky.  The festivals are a combination of fertility and thanksgiving for the return of the essential monsoonal rains for the planting of the year's rice crop.

I wrote the following blog,  http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2013/05/ban-that-rocket-launches.html which provides some of the background and details related to the Bun Bang Feis.

On behalf of the sub-district (Tambon), Nongwha, of which Tahsang Village is one of the eleven villages (Ban, Baan), we were invited to participate in the opening day's morning procession.  To participate, we would dress up in "fancy clothes like King long time ago".  I did not have a problem with that.  Then Duang dropped the bomb on me. I would have to ride a horse.  She asked me if I had ever ridden a horse.  "No", I had never ridden a horse before.  Duang seemed very honored and excited to be asked to be part of the procession.  I then thought that after almost 64 years perhaps it was time that I did.  After we accepted and reconfirmed that we would participate, Duang received a personal call from the Sub-District Headman to officially invite us and get our acceptance.  It was a sealed deal now.  It was also time to get the details regarding the horse.  Duang told me that I did not have to worry, the horse would go slow.  I expressed concern that the horse would be big enough for me.  She checked and informed me that the horse would be big enough for both us.  Since her cousin had met me, I felt somewhat reassured.

On the morning of the 19th, we woke up at 3:00 A.M. to have our make-up applied and to get dressed.   Two young men from the local university drama department came to our home with make-up kits and plastic containers of our elaborate costumes.

Duang was going to portray "Nang Ai" and I was to be "Pha Daeng".  In mythology there are several stories about Nang Ai and Pha Daeng.  The plots vary but they all agree in that Nang Ai was a very beautiful woman and Pha Daeng was a handsome stranger from far away, the ruler of Phaphong.

Duangchan Being Transformed into "Nang Ai"

For the Bun Bang Fai Festival, Nang Ai is the queen of the pageant and Pha Daeng is her champion.

Fortunately for this pageant I did not have to wear any makeup.  I did have to wear a costume ... fit for an ancient ruler.

Nang Ai

We left our home around 6:30 A.M. traveling down Highway 2 the main highway between the Lao/Thai border and the area around Bangkok.  Traffic was light that morning but I had a suspicion.  Here in Thailand, there are often Police check points.  The Police often will stop vehicles, and especially motorbikes, to check for drinking, drug use, license, registration, insurance, "speeding", lack of helmets, and sometimes because they are thirsty or hungry.  About one-half down our trip along Highway 2, I spotted a Thailand Highway Patrol checkpoint.  It is often confusing for me at these checkpoints to determine if I am to pull over or not. That morning there was no confusion, with authority, the policeman waved me to the side of the road.

I rolled down the window as he approached my side of the truck.  I greeted him in Lao and asked him how he was doing.  I pulled out my wallet and fumbled to show him my Thai drivers license.  He did not seem all that interested in that type of formality.  He was looking at Duang and me and was speaking to her.  He seemed to be in a good as well as jovial mood.  Shortly he waved me forward and wished us a good day.

I was confused as to what had just happened.  I asked Duang and she started laughing as she explained.  The policeman saw me driving down the road and wanted to see better what I looked like.  I guess there are not too many falang (foreigners) driving a four door pickup truck around Northeast Thailand dressed up like the ancient (mythological?) ruler of Phaphong.  This is another reason why I love Thailand - the surprises that happen so often!

When we arrived at the Sub-District office where the procession was forming up, I was relieved.  Our horse, a huge horse, was standing in the back of a pick-up truck.  It was not a real horse but a combination metal and fabric replica of a horse ... a very large and anatomically exaggerated horse!

Nang Ai and Pha Daeng Riding His Horse, Bak Sam

In this story of Nang Ai and Pha Daeng, Nang Ai's beauty and fame catches the attention of Phangki, son of the Naga King, Phaya Nak.  Phangki shape shifts himself into a very handsome man to court Nang Ai. Phangki is not successful in his efforts to win over Nang Ai from Pha Daeng. Frustrated he once again shape shifts into a white squirrel to better track and keep an eye on Nang Ai with the intent of finding an opportunity to kidnap her.

When Nang Ai and Pha Daeng see the white squirrel, they order a royal hunter to trap it.  The squirrel, son of the King of the Nagas, ends up dying.  The meat is fed to the people of the town.  It miraculously keeps increasing until 8,000 cartloads of meat is fed to the people of the city and surrounding villages.  (Hmmm - reminds me of another story that I know but it is with fish instead of squirrel meat.).  Phaya Nak, King of the Nagas, vows to kill everyone who has eaten his son's flesh. (on a historical note:  I have eaten squirrel meat but fortunately it was grey squirrel not white squirrel )

After eating, a very large thunderstorm suddenly hit the city.  Since that did not typically happen, Pha Daeng tried to escape quickly with Nang Ai on his horse, Bak Sam. from the rising flood.  All of Isaan is turned into a swamp. The escape was not successful. Nang Ai is swept off the horse by the tail of a naga.  The spirit of the white squirrel had become King of the Nagas and had taken Nang Ai into his underwater kingdom.

Pha Daeng is devastated by the loss of his true love, Nang Ai, and soon dies.  His spirit recruits and organizes an army of spirits from the air to wage a long war against the Naga kingdom.  The war eventually ends in a stalemate, both sides too tired to continue.

It is said that the Nong Hon Kumphawapi Lake is a remnant from the flood and the trench that can be seen today in Tambon Pho Chai was created by Bak Sim's erection as he ran to escape the flood.  For that reason and the ancient fertility rites associated with the festival, our horse that we rode sported a very exaggerated erection and testicles.

Duang and I sat on our horse out in the hot and bright sun for a long time.  After finishing the procession, we dismounted and sat under the protection of a canopy along with the dignitaries and government officials.

Dance troupes from each of the eleven tambon villages performed traditional dances in a competition to determine the three best village participation.  Tahsang Village won second place which was very welcomed.

Duang and I returned to our home to change clothing and returned that evening for the Muay Thai boxing matches.

It had been quite a day for us.  Everyone was very kind and gracious to us.  It was obvious that everyone also appreciated our participation in the cultural event.

There has been plenty of rain (thankfully) in the Sub-District which is welcomed and I have heard that some of the good fortune has been attributed to our participation.

If invited, we will participate again next year.  If we participate, I will be certain to apply sun screen.

I have heard of people being considered to be a "legend in their own time".  I am not that, but I am definitely pleased to have been a "legend from another time"