The Royal Barge, "Suphannahongsa" (Golden Swan) |
Finally after one week of photo editing and post processing, I am ready to share the experience of witnessing last week's Royal Barge Procession in Bangkok.
The Royal Barge Procession is quite a unique event. The first Royal Barge Procession was conducted over 700 years ago. The purpose of last week's procession was to transport HRH Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkom down the Chao Phraya River to Wat Arun where he would be making offerings of robes to the resident Monks.
Following the end of Buddhist Lent also referred to as Buddhist Retreat on 30 October of this year there is a one month period of special merit making known as Kathina. Kathina is a time when people show appreciation to the Monks by offering them gifts, typically robes.
The legend is that long ago thirty Monks were travel to spend the Buddhist Retreat with Gautama Buddha but they didn't make it to him in time. The Buddhist Retreat started before their arrival at their destination so they stopped where they were. When they finally got to Gautama Buddha after the Buddhist Retreat ended, he rewarded their obedience and faith by giving them some cloth that had been given to him. The Monks were to make the cloth into a robe to be given to one of them. They used a frame called a "kathina" to help in making the robe hence the term "Kathina" for the season and its associated festivals. When the Royal Family of Thailand offers robes to Monks the merit making ritual is known as "The Royal Kathin Ceremony"
Sometimes The Royal Kathin Ceremony is determined by the King to require a Royal Barge Procession. In the 19th century, previous King did not want to create more confusion and gridlock in the streets of Bangkok so he traveled by river to make the robe offerings which started the modern use of the Royal Barge Procession for the Royal Kathin Ceremony.
There are two formations for a Royal Barge Procession major and Minor. For this procession the major as in "Major Battle Formation" was decided upon. The major battle formation consists of five columns of barges where as the minor procession consists of three columns. The main battle formation consisted of 52 barges and 2,200 costumed Thai Navy sailors rowing the craft.
Five Columns of Barges In the Major Formation
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Picking Up Debris Prior to Procession |
The Suphannahongsa Royal Barge Proceeding Down River - A Magnificent Sight |
The Hamsa carries a garland from its mouth at the bow of the barge. The garland is a polished wood ball covered with small mirrors, followed by chandelier type arrangement of mirrors after which are three crystal ornaments and finally a large tassel of yak fur. Yak fur? Although there are no yaks in Thailand, yak fur was selected it is from an animal that is considered high and noble. Yak fur also glistens in the light and does not mat together when it is wet (something to definitely consider for the front of a boat). When dry, yak fur fluffs up very nicely as can be seen in this photograph.
The bow of Subannahongsa is adorned with a large floral garland made from fresh jasmine, roses, false globe and amsranth.
Royal Barge Anantanagaraj (Anata, The King of Serpents) |
Royal barge Anekkachatphuchong (The Variety of Serpents) |
Royal Barge Narai Song Suban Ratchakan Thi Kao (God Narayana on his Carrier Garuda) |
The Royal Barges are accompanied by five classes of escort barges. The bows of escort barges have figueheads of mythical creatures from the Thai epic, "Ramakian" or a painting of a mythical creature.
There are two barges of the Suea Class. These barges are distinguished by painted tiger (Suea) faces on the bow and tiger stripes along their side. Cannons on these barges are mounted above the bow whereas on the other barges the cannons are mounted in the bow. The Suea class barges are the Suea Thayan Chon and the Suea Kamron Sindh. Each barge is propelled by 26 oarsman and are roughly 22,2 meters long.
Suea Class Barge, Sueaa Kamron Sin, Underway |
A Ekachai Class Escort Barge with Crew |
Four Krabi Class Barges participate in the Royal Barge Procession. Krabi Class Barges are distinguished by Monkey Warrior figureheads. The Monkey Warriors are mythical creatures from the Thai epic, "Ramakian". Hanuman, white monkey warrior, is on the bow of the Krabi Prab Muang Marn. Nilaphat, black monkey warrior, adorns the bow of the Krabi Ran Ron Rap. The other two Krabi Class barges have crowned figureheads of ruler from mythical land of Kishkindha kingdom. The Pali Rang Thawip has a figurehead with a green body and the Sukrip Khrong Mueang has a red body figurehead.
Krabi Prap Mueang Man (Hanuman Figurehead) |
The Pali Rang Thawip (foreground) |
Krut Hern Het |
Two Asura Class Escorts |
The remainder of the escort barges are smaller scout boats
A Scout Escort Barge |
Another Type of Scout Escort Barge |
Besides the visual smorgasbord of shapes, colors, and textures be it barges or costumes, there was an audio component of the Royal Barge Procession. Just before the start of the procession, perhaps 5 minutes before it commenced there were loud flourishes that trumpeted over the river. The flourishes put the flourishes played for the President of the United States to shame but then again these were fit, if not for a King, then for a Crown Prince. It was amazing how quiet the scene was. The river had been closed to traffic for over 6 hours and due to import of the event the crowds were extremely respectful as well as quiet. After the interlude following the flourishes, the silence was broken by a single voice broadcast over the river by powerful loudspeakers on the other side of the river. The voice was a mature, I believe alto, and evoked memories of holy rituals. I later found out that the lilting almost haunting chant was specifically written for this procession. It was chanted by a man on the Royal Barge, Anantanagaraj, and broadcast to the sound systems along the river. Receivers and amplifiers on the various other barges except for the Suphannahongsa, so that the oarsmen can hear the chant and respond to it. As the Procession got fully underway, his chanting was answered by the oarsmen in the barges and the staccato beat of wooden poles striking the bottom of the escort barges by the fore and aft timekeepers for setting a rowing cadence. At some points in the 45 minute procession, buglers on the escort barges would blare out some commands. So the Procession was impressive to listen to as well as to observe.
At our hotel we were subjected to some special rules due to the Royal barge Procession. People were not allowed to stand on their balconies, look out of their room's windows, our stand on the elevated terraces of the hotel. Why? Doing so would put common people in an elevated position over HRH The Crown Prince which would be a violation of protocol. The swimming pool alongside of the river was also closed again so as to not violate protocol. Guests were expected to be properly dressed also just as if you were to visit a Wat (Temple). There were two policemen standing along the river with us for security purposes and to ensure protocol was not violated. These were requirements were quite reasonable and willingly accepted by everyone for such a spectacular event.
The river remained closed until after sunset. What goes down the river must go back up the river. After the merit making of the Royal Kathin Ceremony at Wat Arun, Thai Royal Navy vessels towed the barges back up the river to their home berths or storage locations,
As Twilight Descends On Bangkok, Some barges Are Towed Up River |
Nature always helps a writer to learn from its elements. Nature always try to teach new lessons and a writer transform its experience into words. He can transform even silence into words. This blog taught me a lesson.
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