21 May 2016 Bun Bang Fai Ban That

Last weekend, we attended the Ban That Rocket Festival.  The Festival started Friday 20 May and finished on Saturday 21 May this year.  However, Saturday was the only day of the rockets actually being launched.

May is the month for rocket festivals as well as just local people firing homemade gunpowder propelled rockets into the sky of Northeast Thailand (Isaan) and neighboring Lao People's Democratic Republic.

The typical rocket festival lasts for two days, with the rocket launching being set for the second day like the Tambon Nongwa Bun Bang Fai near my wife's home village.  However large festivals can last longer.  The Ban That Bun Bang Fai Festival is typically one of those longer festivals - historically lasting 5 or 6 days.

This year it was different for Ban That Bun Bang Fai.  The festival was only two days long with only one day of rocket launches.

It has been two years since the military took over governing Thailand.  As is typical in most countries, the military is more conservative and concerned about the morality and safety of the nation and its inhabitants.

Gambling other than the national lottery is illegal in Thailand.  The military has cracked down on the enforcement of the laws against gambling. Under civilian rule, there were "exceptions" and "accommodations" available with local Police authorities.  This is now extremely difficult to obtain.

The military is now also more vigilantly and diligently enforcing the existing laws regarding the purchasing and consumption of alcohol.

Every year people are injured and some are killed in accidents at Bun Bang Fai events.  Two years ago a man and a woman were killed at the Ban That Bun Bang Fei when an errant rocket slammed through the cab of their pick up truck as they arrived at the festival. The military, whose duty is to protect the nation considers that duty to include protecting the inhabitants from themselves.

With the heightened awareness over gambling, drinking, safety, and public misbehavior, there was a concern about the Ban That Bun Bang Fai would even be held this year.  I tried to find out when it was going to be held, typically the first week of May, but could not find out anything - there was no publicity about the event.  I ended up finding a phone number of the subdistrict office for the area where the festival is held.  I had my wife call and although it was not the right place to call for information, the person gave her the phone number for the Ban That administration.  Duang called and we got the information that we need to attend the festival.

What is a rocket festival?  Why make and launch rockets into the sky?  Why doesn't every country do it?

Well, first of all it is a cultural thing rooted in religious belief.

It is believed that these Buddhist festivals evolved from pre-Buddhist fertility rituals to bring the return of the Monsoon rains.  The festivals are held just before the start of the planting season.  It also is one last opportunity for the people to blow off some steam before the exhaustive rice planting season starts.

Some aspects of the fertility rites is retained in the current rocket festivals in that there typically are floats with animals with engorged genitals.  Some men match carrying a bow powered machination - it is wood figurines of a woman on her back and a man on top of her spread legs.  It is very realistic down to the details of pubic hair.  Well close to reality - other than the size of the man's "equipment" or "package".  As the man flexes the bow, the figurines perform the "horizontal mambo", "the nasty", "do it", "hump", "humpty dance", "slapping uglies" or whatever euphemism of your choice and preference.  All this is done to the delight of the crowd people of all ages.

Once the Buddhist religion was established in the area, Buddhist beliefs supplemented and complimented the fertility rites but never replaced them.  A Long time ago, during one of Buddha's many reincarnations, this time as a toad, the rain god (King of the Sky), Phaya Tan  (Taen) was angry with the people and animals. Buddha, Phaya Khang Khok, sermons were drawing people and creatures from earth and sky away from the King of the Sky.  He decided to punish them by withholding the necessary life giving and sustaining rains.  After seven years,seven months, and seven days of drought, the surviving people and animals got together and consulted with Buddha.

Naga Atop A Rocket

After much deliberations, they decided that Phaya Nak (Naga), the giant snake, would lead them in war against the rain god, Phaya Tan.  Phaya Tan defeated the giant snake and his troops.  Buddha and the survivors then sent Phaya Dtaw, the wasp along with Phaya Dtan, the hornet, to battle the rain god.  Phaya Tan was once again victorious and the surviving people and animals returned home to wait for their inevitable death from the lack of water.

Buddha, the toad, developed a plan to attack the rain god by using termites to build mounds up to the sky so that scorpions and centipedes could climb up to battle Phaya Tan and his forces.  Moths assisted the attack against the forces of the King of the Sky by eating away the handles of the enemy's weapons. Buddha accepted Phaya Tan's surrender on condition that the King of the Sky immediately provide the rains and in the future.  If the King of the Sky should forget, the people will remind him by launching rockets at which time he will start the rains.

Rockets at the Wat before being transported to the launch area

Today, the launching of rockets is a merit making ritual for the the peoples of Isaan and their ethnic, Lao Loum (Lowland Lao) cousins across the Mekong River in the Lao People's Democratic Republic (Laos).  Monks are often involved in the construction and observation of the rocket launches.

One Vendor's Stockpile For the Day

The launching of rockets started at 9:00 A.M..  Rockets were roaring up into the sky every thirty seconds.

This year there were no large rockets - just rockets made from 6" or 8" PVC pipe - possibly due to safety considerations but more likely financial realities.

Unlike previous festivals at Ban That there was no play by play of each launch.  There were no officials tracking and announcing the time for each rocket to reach its apogee and total elapsed time from launch to return to the ground.  The total time is important as well as smoothness of flight along with stylistic points for the smoke plume are important in determining the winner of the prizes for the festival. I did not see any gambling whatsoever this year.

There were also no launch control this year - no men waving the appropriate red or green flags for launch safety or control.  There was no countdowns broadcast to give warning of impending launches.  The rules this year were like people sometimes say .. "The rules are ... there are no rules."

Rockets were blasting off willy-nilly every 30 seconds.  It was the wild west of rocket launches.  Due to the lack of larger rockets, people had a false sense of security and safety.  A pavilion with tables and chairs was set up about 100 feet from the launch pads.  Although too close to be safe - I enjoyed the shade and chair.  I was also able to get some good shots of an exploding rocket using my 28-70 mm lens.

Ban That ... We have a problem!

Whoops ... This was not planned or meant to be

Scattered about the launch area were pavilions underneath which, rocketeers were making the final adjustments and preparations for their rockets.

Both sides of the roadway along the perimeter of the land side of the launch area were lined with booths selling all kinds of food as well as drink - fruit, donuts, corn on the cob, water, fruit juices, soft drinks, fried shrimp. noodle soup, chicken feet, grilled dried squid, and other ethnic delights.  Other booths were selling umbrellas, hats, clothing, balloons, and inflatable toys.  There were not as many booths as in previous years and the crowds were far smaller.

I had gone off on my own to take photographs while Duang remained in the shade of a small tree on the edge of the launch area.  When I joined up with her to get cooled off somewhat and have some ice cold water, she told me that many people were complaining - the festivals are funded by grants from the government.  This year the military provided the same amount of money for the entire festival that had been just the amount in prize money for the rocket competition in previous years.  This no doubt was why this year's festival was so much shorter and smaller than previous years.  Fortunately it was just as much fun and exciting as in those earlier years.

At the far end of the launch complex there was a large stage were a grand show commenced at 11:00 A.M.  I made it to 11:30 A.M. when I gave in because I was having too much fun.  I was hot and sweaty - although it was very cloudy the temperature was around 95F and the humidity was up.

When I told Duang that I wanted to go home, she was also more than ready to head home.  Although it was a short time, we had enjoyed our stay at the rocket launches and there was no sense in risking it all due to a false sense of time being important in this endeavor.  Besides we are going to be attending Bun Bang Fai in Kumphawapi on 28 & 29 May and Tambon Nongwa on June 1 & 2!

I go out on every photo shoot with a goal in mind.  The goal typically is the type of shots that I want to focus on, mood or moods that I would like to capture and a story or stories that I want to tell with or through the photographs.  Well life, at times, is very much like photography.  We may have our priorities and our goals which are all good and necessary.  However, we can not let our goals and priorities blind us from seeing, experiencing and enjoying the unexpected opportunities that present themselves along the sides or margins of our awareness.  Often  it is these unexpected moments, situations, and opportunities that can give us the greatest pleasures. Life is to be lived, fully experienced and enjoyed.

Bun Bang Fei - Ban That 2015 Gallery Is Available

A new gallery of 22 selected photographs from this year's Bun Bang Fei event in Ban That, Thailand is now available for viewing and for your consideration.

During the Bun Bang Fei event, hundreds of homemade PVC-Gunpowder rockets are launched into the sky.  The event is a Lao cultural tradition which is celebrated on both sides of the Mekong River.


                         http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Bun-Bang-Fei-Ban-That-2015

Beware of Falling Objects!

Rocket Launching in Ban That, Amphur Pen

I have been getting a start several times a day the past week.  The television keeps running announcement for the upcoming Labour Day weekend.  Have I been in a coma and only now coming out of it have lost 4 months of my life?  Like Rip Van Winkle have I been sleeping for 4 months as the world continued to progress?  Nope ... the key is in the spelling of Labour Day.   In the USA, Labor Day is celebrated in early September.  However in much of the remainder of the world, May 1 is celebrated as "Labour Day"

Launch Row at Ban That

May 1 was quite the holiday back in the days of the former Soviet Union and its associated client states and allies.  It was during the May Day celebrations, that they would have grand parades of their military might.  In addition to thousands of marching scowl-faced soldiers, sailors, marines, and airmen, the governments would wheel through their capitals their powerful rockets.

May 1st is a holiday here in Isaan, and forget about vestiges of Communist glories or glorification of the "Workers".  May 1 marks the start of the Bun Bang Fei season here and across the mighty Mekong River in Lao People's Democratic Republic.

Throughout the countryside many homemade gunpowder rockets will be launched into the sky.

In some areas, Yasothon specifically, there are grand festivals associated with the rockets, -internationally recognized and attended by many foreigners.  In many small villages, the rocket launching is more parochial and an opportunity for the local people to enjoy themselves, and perhaps even earn some extra cash before the busy days of rice planting.

Just as the mighty powers parade their rockets, the people of Isaan parade their rockets and facsimiles of their rockets or mightier rockets.  Some rockets are actually finished  at the launching site.  Many of the rockets are first brought to the local Wat to be blessed prior to launching.

Multiple Launchings In Ban That

This evening, Duang returned from her village with big news.  The Ban That Bun Bang Fei Festival, this year, will be May 1, 2, and 3rd.  This is a good sized festival with a great deal going on but not overwhelmed by tourists - thus retaining much ot its cultural uniqueness.

May 1 is also the day of the day of the Korb Siarn Khru Ceremony in Tahsang Village which commences at 9:00 A.M.  Duang is not certain that we can do both, but I am optimistic and definitely willing to try.

My brother-in-law will be performing a morlam show out at the Ban Tat Bun Bang Fei on the 3rd of May so we will spending the full day out there.

INCOMING!  INCOMING!

The Arrow and the Song

By Henry Wadsworth Longfellow 1807–1882 Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

I shot an arrow into the air,

It fell to earth, I knew not where; ...

 Here in Isaan it is more like ...

They shot many rockets into the air.

They fell to earth, they knew not where nor did they seem to care ..

As the Saying Says - "Close only counts in hand grenades and horseshoes"

Well it is up tomorrow morning at 5:00 A. M. to attend a family wedding and then off to the ritual the next day and perhaps off to the rocket festival in Ban That.  It never seems to get boring around here.

Monks Enjoying Rocket Launches At Ban Tat

Isaan Rocket Launches

Today, my wife and I drove out to Ban That for the third time this week in conjunction with the Bun Bang Fai Festival.  The purpose of our visit today was to witness some of the 200 rocket launches today.

We arrived at 11:00 A.M. to find the rocket launches going on fully.  As we drove towards the village, the contrails of the rockets roaring skyward served as a beacon.

Just as during our previous trips to Ban That this week, it was hot - 38C (100F).  Fortunately we have witnessed rocket launches in Ban That two other times thus relieving any pressures to stay the entire day due to concerns of missing out on something.  Today there was quite a bit of sun as well as the heat to soak up the moisture and strength out of your body.

The launching area alongside of a body of water just outside of the village does not offer very much shelter from the sun.  There are a few trees scattered about the launch area and they were surrounded by spectators seeking some relief from the sun.  Some food and beverage vendors had set up some awnings along with plastic tables an chairs for their customers.  I spent most of my time wandering about in the sun taking photographs but Duang was able to buy lunch and sit in the shade of one of the food stalls.  Her location was also a good place for me to change lenses and to drink cool beverages.

Unlike previous years, there is a big anti-drinking campaign at the rocket festival.  Plastic signs are very prominent designating areas as "Non-Alcohol"  The campaign while not 100% effective has greatly reduced the consumption of alcohol at the event which makes it much more pleasurable.

Perhaps next year or some time in the near future, the people could designate the area as "Non Plaa Daek" (Non-Fermented Fish Sauce) Areas.  The odor of Plaa Daek, at least 6 month old  fermented fish sauce is often sufficient to cause me to vomit - much to the amusement of my ethnic Lao in-laws.  It is even worse in 38C (100F) weather and in piles of garbage from the night before.  Fortunately there was not very much wind so I could easily get away from the smell today.  I was able to take my photographs uninterrupted today.

Typically when I go off to take photographs, especially to a location or event that I have been to previously, I arrive with a preconceived notion of what I want to shoot.  Today was no different.  Of course I wanted some shots of rockets taking off but I really wanted more shots of the rocketeers.  Taking photos of people here in Southeast Asia is seldom an issue.  In reality, people will often call me over to take their photograph so I fully expected to get the shots that I was hoping for.

The Launch Crew Transporting One of the Larger Rockets

Launching of the rockets is a cultural as well as religious activity.  It is also a competition - rocketeers compete to see whose rocket goes up the highest.  Although gambling is illegal in Thailand - oops here I go again with the "the way things are supposed to be and the way they actually are" spiel - rocket competitions present opportunities for people to make some additional money.

Exchanges of cash, sometimes wads of cash, are often very observable at the smaller venues for rocket launches.  At Ban That today, the transfer of funds was very discrete although there was not a large Police presence at the event.



Crews Prepare Rockets As One Is Launched Next to Them

Rockets were erected on launch ramps and launched continually.  Crews would be erecting a rocket on a ramp and another rocket would be launch from the ramp next to them without any regard for the crew's safety.

The launch crews hand rigged the rockets into place.  For the smaller rockets this was not much of an effort - the ground crew members lifting the rocket by hand to members of the crew who had climbed up the launch ramp.  Except for one man who wore a motorcycle helmet, no one wore safety hats.  Just about everyone wore rubber flip flops rather than any type of work boot or safety shoes.

None of the crew that climbed the launch ramps wore safety harnesses or any other form of fall protection.  This was quite a contrast to my experiences in the construction industry during my working career.  As Duang so often reminds me "Thailand not like America"  She is definitely right on that.  However I share these observations to point out the differences and not to make judgments.  Here, people are responsible for taking care of themselves.  There are much fewer regulations and even fewer enforcement or compliance personnel.  It is a different way of living and doing things.



Hand Rigging A Large Rocket Into Position

For the heavier and larger rockets, a pulley at the top of the launch ramp was used in conjunction with two sets of people manning the ground lines to hoist the rocket into position.

Not all of the rocket launches were successful.  In the two hours that we were there, one rocket blew up on the launch ramp - I wasn't in position to photograph it, Duang, based upon my experience at a previous festival, was keeping me on a short leash.  The explosion on the launch ramp reminded me of the photos of a big launch failure of a secret satellite at Vandenberg AFB several years ago - star burst streamers of smoke, debris, and burning objects.  Another rocket failed shortly after launch.

One of the two large rockets that we watched being launched failed to ignite.  This was apparently not a big deal.  The crew disconnected the wires from the car battery located just off to the side of the rocket.  One of the crew gingerly climbed up the ramp carrying a new igniter on the tip of a slender bamboo rod to the base of the rocket.  He unwrapped several turns of packaging tape from the base of the rocket, removed the malfunctioning igniter, installed the new igniter, and replaced the tape wrapping.  Shortly afterwards the wires were attached to the battery and the rocket ignited.  The rocket remained on the ramp emitting a loud roar and large orange flame until it developed sufficient thrust to break the vines restraining it.  The rocket tore into the sky much to the delight of the crowd.

Spent Rocket Returning to Earth, more accurately - the launch area!

One of the smaller rockets created quite a stir.  It launched without a problem but due to a combination of factors returned to the launch area upon completion of its flight.  Fortunately observers keeps track of each rocket and we had plenty of warning.  People started getting excited and started moving out of the area.  The spent casing ended up hitting the ground about 30 meters from where I was located - in an area where people would be dancing later in the day.

Prior to starting our return home, I took a tour of the rocket preparation area - a series of pavilions where rockets were finished for launch.  Preparation activities were mostly finishing off the construction of the combustion chamber inside the rocket and installing the igniters.  The finishing off of the combustion chambers involved swabbing the rocket interior with water and large homemade Q-Tips.  The combination of gunpowder and water stained the ground as well as the clothing as well as the skin of the rocketeers.

Finishing Off the Combustion Chamber

Working On Another Rocker Combustion Chamber

At some of the work stations, igniters were being fabricated.  Igniters are long insulated wires that have their bare tips twisted together.  When connected to a 12 volt car battery, the wires at the tip short out creating a flame that ignites the gunpowder inside of the PVC tube.

Preparing Rocket Igniters

Rocketeers include people of all ages and sexes.  It is actually a family event with everyone contributing or learning from the process.  Launching rockets also attracts many Monks.  Some Monks a sought after for their technical knowledge as well a spiritual prowess related to launching rockets.

A Monk Provides Some Advice

Isaan Rocketeers - The Next Generation

Sometimes A Hammer Is Necessary For Fine Tuning

It turned out to be quite an enjoyable excursion today.  Duang and I were both ready and happy to leave after two hours - the sun, heat, noise and for me - the odors had taken their toll.

It's that time of the year ... again. Bun Bang Fei

The beginning of May marks the start of our rainy season here in Isaan.  It also logically coincides with the start of the "Rocket Season" here and across the Mekong River in Lao People's Democratic Republic.

A Multiple Launch In Ban That, Phen District - 2013 (2556BE)

Launching of homemade gunpowder filled PVC rockets is a unique aspect of Lao culture in the region.  The custom is tied to the legend of one of Buddha's many previous lives.

It is believed that these Buddhist festivals of launching rockets evolved from pre-Buddhist fertility rituals to bring the return of the Monsoon rains.  The festivals are held just before the start of the planting season.  It also is one last opportunity for the people to blow off some steam before the exhaustive rice planting season starts.  Some aspects of the fertility rites is retained in the current rocket festivals in that there typically are floats with animals with engorged genitals.  Some men match carrying a bow powered machination - it is wood figurines of a woman on her back and a man on top of her spread legs.  It is very realistic down to the details of pubic hair.  Well close to reality - other than the size of the man's "equipment" or "package".  As the man flexes the bow, the figurines perform the "horizontal mambo", "the nasty", "do it", "hump", "humpty dance", "slapping uglies" or whatever euphemism of your choice and preference.  All this is done to the delight of the crowd consisting of people of all ages.  Either to cool off the wood "action" figures or to assist in lubricating them, people walk up and pour whiskey or beer on the moving parts.

Once the Buddhist religion was established in the area, Buddhist beliefs supplemented and complimented the fertility rites but never replaced them.

A Long time ago, during one of Buddha's many reincarnations, this time as a toad, the rain god (King of the Sky), Phaya Tan  (Taen) was angry with the people and animals. Buddha's, Phaya Khang Khok, sermons were drawing people and creatures from earth and sky away from the King of the Sky.  He decided to punish them by withholding the necessary life giving and sustaining rains.  After seven years, seven months, and seven days of drought, the surviving people and animals got together and consulted with Buddha.  After much deliberations, they decided that Phaya Nak (Naga), the giant snake, would lead them in war against the rain god, Phaya Tan.  Phaya Tan defeated the giant snake and his troops.  Buddha and the survivors then sent Phaya Dtaw, the wasp along with Phaya Dtan, the hornet, to battle the rain god.  Phaya Tan was once again victorious and the surviving people and animals returned home to wait for their inevitable death from the lack of water.

Buddha, the toad, developed a plan to attack the rain god by using termites to build mounds up to the sky so that scorpions and centipedes could climb up to battle Phaya Tan and his forces.  Moths assisted the attack against the forces of the King of the Sky by eating away the handles of the enemy's weapons. Buddha accepted Phaya Tan's surrender on condition that the King of the Sky immediately provide the rains and in the future.  If the King of the Sky should forget, the people will remind him by launching rockets at which time he will start the rains.

The largest and best internationally known rocket festival is in Yasothon.  Our favorite location for Bun Bang Fai is in the village of Ban That in Phen District located northeast of our home in Udonthani.

This year we have already attended a small Bun Bang Fai in a small village outside of Kumphawapi.  Rather than a full fledged festival , the occasion outside of Kumphawapi was more of a local rocket competition - launching of smaller rockets for trophies and ... betting.  Gambling is not legal in Thailand however I have always seen money changing hands at these rocket launches.  Duang left the rocket competition with 900 baht more than she had arrived with.

Launch Row - Ban That

The Bun Bang Fai Festival in Ban That is our favorite location.  This year the festival is being held from 11 May to 17 May.  I was able to obtain a schedule of events that Duang translated for my benefit.  We will be attending the festival on Monday, May 12th - getting there at 7:00 A.M. for the procession along with a show that evening and Thursday, May 15th - for the start of launching 200 rockets for the day.  Throughout each day of the festival there is entertainment, launches and plenty of food and drink ... for many people there is too much to drink but then again that is what helps make it a festival.

Float for Afternoon Procession

We went two days last year and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.  The festival concluded early after our attendance for the second day when a rocket went stray after launch and went into the cab of a pickup truck that was entering the parking lot - instantly killing the female occupant with the male driver dying on his way to the hospital.  There is always a certain danger at these events with excessive drinking and launching of gunpowder packed PVC tubes into the sky.



Finishing Up One of the Larger Rockets

Monks are often involved in the rocket building process

We are both looking forward to this year's festival in Ban That.  After that festival there is a smaller festival at Tambon Nongwha on 22 May.

It is that time of year again - busy times of festivals, rocket launches, music, dancing, fighting (some organized but many not planned) and merriment prior to the planting season.

Allen's World, 2013 In Review

Now that just about everyone has gotten out their "Year In Review" or "2013 In Review", I thought that I would share some of my favorite photographs for the year that just concluded.  Staying here in Thailand gives me the opportunity to actually have two years in review, 2013 as well as the Buddhist Era year of 2556.

Life here in Isaan continued to be very interesting as well as fulfilling.  There were more than a year's share of festivals, family events, travels, and ordinary daily activities to keep me both satisfied and more importantly happy.

So let's see what the past year brought forth.

January - Udonthani
http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2013/02/for-love-of-king-and-country.html

February - Ban Chiang
http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2013/02/ban-chiang-weekend.html

March - Si That
http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2013/03/a-rare-day.html

April - Maehongson
http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2013/04/poi-sang-long-festival-wednesday-03.html

May - Ban That
http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2013/05/ban-that-rocket-launches.html

June - Yellowstone National Park

July - Ban Nong Han
http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2013/07/road-of-opportunity-plenty-of.html

August - Ban Tahsang
http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2013/08/all-along-back-roads.html

September - Ban Nong Han

October - Sakon Nakhon
http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2013/10/wax-castles-of-sakon-nakhon.html

November - Ban Tahsang
http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2013/11/another-rice-harvest.html

December - Luang Prabang

It had been quite a memorable year as every year is.  It was filled with joy, sadness, challenges like all the previous years.  It had been a year of many opportunities just as all previous years and as I know this new year, 2014, will be - for everyone.