"Shan Farmers", New Gallery Available

A new gallery, "Shan Farmers", is now available at my personal photography website for viewing.

This gallery of  29 photographs from last month's trip to the Thai-Myanmar Border documents the harvest activities of Tai Yai (Shan) people.

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/People/Shan/Shan-Farmers/29310329_V3VQWv

The Band

Shan Musician - A Leaf Blower

As some people get to be around my age, they talk about "getting the band back together".

No, this blog is not about a group of middle aged or older men hoping to possibly recapture the enthusiasm, glory, and vitality of a long past time.  This blog is not about the Windjammers or Mustangs from my high school years or my fraternity band the "Wazoos".  This blog is not even about "The Band" that was so instrumental in the music scene of 1968-1975 or is it even about "We're An American Band" a song made famous in 1973 by Grand Funk Railroad.

This blog is about today.  It is not about glory.  It is about a band, a simple and humble band ... a Shan band.

On Thursday, the second day of the Poi Sang Long Festival, we returned to Wat Hua Wiang at a more reasonable hour to witness the start of the procession through the center of the city.  We arrived about an hour before the scheduled start of the procession so there was plenty of time as well as opportunities to photograph the people.

Towards the front of the second wave of the participants in the procession, we found a decorated flat bed truck ... and a familiar face.  Seated at the head of the flat bed, was the very same leaf blower musician that we had seen four years ago.  Time had been kind to this man.  He looked exactly the same.

A Violin Type Instrument With Attached Sound Horn and Microphone 

The band that he plays in had changed somewhat.  There was now a keyboard and banjo joining the traditional drum, guitar like stringed instrument, and a violin type instrument.  All the musicians were dressed in traditional Shan clothing.

Another Stringed Instrument in the Band

The stringed instruments were very interesting.   The violin type instruments had a metal sound box that transitioned into a sound horn - a sort of mechanical amplifier.  A small microphone was attached inside of the sound horn to allow electrical amplification of the sound.

The banjo also had a electrical hook up to allow for electrical amplification of its sound.

Electrical amplification was necessary because the band provides the traditional Shan music during the course of the procession.  Periodically along the procession route, a large troupe of Shan women, dressed in traditional Shan costume, perform traditional dances to the band's music.  In between the dance stops, the band performs traditional music to entertain the crowds along the streets.

Drummer Tunes Drum With His Hammer

My taste in music is very eclectic although it excludes jazz, hip hop and rap.  The Shan music is very ethnic in it sounds.  It resembles, at least to my ears, Chinese music which is understandable because the Shan people originally migrated from China to Burma (Myanmar) before immigrating to Northern Thailand.  Leaf blowing also is a part of some Chinese ethnic music.  The Hmong as well as the Shan peoples still utilize leaves in their ethnic music.  The sound from blowing on leaves is squawking sound however the skilled musician can make the sound over a wide frequency and actually carry a tune with them.  The melding of the instruments created a "Toto, I have a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore" moment.

I enjoyed listening to the Shan music.  Like other ethnic music, the Shan music captures and defines the unique aspects of a people's culture.  It serves as a link to a shared common experience and past while serving as a bridge to the future.  Ethnic music is also a celebration of the diversity of mankind.  It is a celebration that I hope continues forever.  I do not want to live in a homogenized world, a world of common government, common laws, common thought, common lifestyles and worst of all common culture.  At my age I do not have to worry about living in a homogenized world but I have concerns for the world that my grandchildren and their children or grandchildren could find themselves in.

People like the members of the Shan band are on the front lines maintaining and sharing their unique cultures. We are all enriched by their efforts.

"Allen's World" is a large world with many fascinating people and many diverse unique cultures to experience and to strive to understand.  It is an interesting place that is open to all, not just me and my wife, to explore, to cherish, and to appreciate.  The most important step in what can be a wonderful journey for any one is that first step outside of their comfort zone.  I hope to see more fellow travelers on some these back roads - roads outside of their comfort zones.

Thai Yai Architecture

Wat Huaipha  December 05, 2006

The Shan, Thai Yai, originated in Myanmar, which was formerly known as "Burma".  They immigrated to Northern Thailand to work in the forest industry in the last half of the 19th century.  They congregated in Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son Provinces.  Mae Hong Son was settled by Shan people in 1830.

Due to the remote location and, until relatively recently, the isolation of Mae Hong Son Province the Shan were able to maintain their cultural identity - their customs, their music, their dress, their festivals and their architecture.

War Huaipha - 1 April 2009

Shan temples, Wats, are unique and distinctive.  Whenever I am in Maehongson, I make it a point to visit Wat Jong Kham, Wat Jong Klang, and Wat Huaipha are typical Shan structures - multiple stacked layers resembling a wedding cake with decorative pressed metal trimming along the edges for icing.

Wat Jong Kham and Wat Jong Klang

The Shan temples are typically wood with intricate carvings and an intricate symmetry.  They blend in very well with their surroundings.

Wat Huai Phueng, Ban Huai Phueng, Thailand

Wat Hua Wiang, Mae Hong Son, Thailand

 

Wat Hua Wiang, Mae Hong Son, Thailand



One of my favorites is Wat Huaipha located north of Mae Hong Son on the side of  but lower in elevation of Highway 1095.  I first became aware of this Wat on my first trip to the Maehongson (Mae Hong Son) area in October 2006.  It was late afternoon and my guide was returning me to my hotel in Maehongson.  The sun was low in the afternoon sky giving the wood exterior of the Wat a warm golden glow.  I immediately recognized it as an excellent photo opportunity.  However, we had quickly passed it.  I was shooting film at the time and I was reluctant to change to a faster film to be able to capture the shot.  As too often people find themselves on a trip, I had also developed a case of tunnel focus.  My mind had been set and focused on the destination up ahead - the hotel.  As such I was reluctant to have the driver stop, turn around, and drive back up the hill to visit the Wat.  I thought that I could get "That Shot" later on.  Well I never did get that opportunity during that trip.

I returned in December of the same year and made sure that we stopped at the Wat in the late afternoon to take photographs of the Wat in the golden light.  I had learned a valuable lesson on my first trip - to take advantage of every opportunity for photographs; even if it means turning around and retracing part of your route.  Just as in life, opportunities are special gifts that should be appreciated and used.  Opportunities may not return.

Wat Huaipha - December 2006

Since the first trip in October 2006, I make it a point to stop and check out the lighting to photograph Wat Huaipha.  Each visit has presented different opportunities for photographing the unique Shan architecture.

Wat Huaipha - April 2013

After visiting the garlic and soybean workers, we found ourselves driving past Wat Huaipha in the late afternoon.  Driving past the Wat on this trip was not a problem.  From our last trip in 2009, I knew that further down Highway 1095 past the Wat was the entrance to the small village where the Wat is located.  We drove through the extremely narrow streets of the village until I found a suitable spot half on the street and half off of the street - as good as it got in the village but a common practise here in Thailand.  Duang was tired from our full day of activities so she elected to remain in the truck since I told her that I would not be long.

I walked the short distance to the Wat and walked around the grounds.  The sun was fairly low in the sky and not too high above the western mountains.  There was a slight golden color to the light but nothing that I would describe as exciting let alone spectacular.  I took some photos but nothing that excited me.  After awhile, I heard loud shouting from inside of the Sala.  The shouting was very animated and came from young voices.  The shouting was definitely not the type associated with arguing or fighting.  The shouting sounded to me to be like young children playing a game; an enthusiastic game. I climbed the wood stairs into the Sala.  As I entered into the Sala, I quickly understood what was going on.

Novice Monks Learning Scriptures By Rote - Loud Rote at That

In the Sala strongly lit by the golden directional light of the setting sun through the windows and door on the west site of the building, the Abbott and a Monk in his early twenties were instructing four young Novice Monks in Buddhist scripture.  The older Monks would ask the young Novices questions.  If the young Novices knew the answer, they would shout out the answer, with each  trying to out do the other in volume as well as enthusiasm.  When a Novice did not have the answer he woud refer to some papers to find the answer.  It appeared that one of the Novices was having a particularly difficult time with the answers.  He was referring to the study papers often and was off to the side getting individualized instruction the the twenty something Monk.

It was a great scene made even more spectacular by the strong natural lighting.  I found this to be very exciting.  As exciting as it was, it was also a scene that required respect and minimal interference on my part.  I decided to not use any speedlights to photograph the scene.  I set my camera to a high ISO (light sensitivity) to be able to take photographs at high enough speed to minimize blurring from camera shake.  My tripod was in the truck and with the setting sun, I realized that I did not have enough time or light to retrieve it.  I would have to deal with and make the best out of what was available; what was presented to me.  It was very much like life. It often is not perfect but you can make the best of it.

It was enjoyable and inspiring to witness this scene.



 

 

It was enjoyable and inspiring to witness this scene. I went back to the truck so that Duang could see and most likely appreciate and understand more than me what was transpiring inside of the Sala.  We returned together and I was so pleased to see the look on her face - I knew that I had helped to make her day memorable.



 

 

Another objective our trip had been achieved - photographs of some Shan Wats  but that was not all.  We had been fortunately given the opportunity of a scene that has been repeated countless times over the past 2,556 years - Monks teaching Novices the teaching of Buddha - another of the connections that ties today to our far distant past.  It was a continuation that binds many of people all over the world and activity that will mind the future to our present day.

 

Just as the Shan architecture helps to identify and define a people.  The propogation of faith identifies and defines people.  Our visit to photograph a temple ended up being much more.  Our visit ended up being an opportunity to witness and experience some of the spiritual world.

 

 

 

Ban Nai Soi - Soybean Workers

Soybean Worker Carrying Bamboo Ties

As we drove north on Highway 1285 towards Ban Huai Phueng in search of more garlic workers after our first visit to the garlic fields, we came upon one more group of field hands.  I parked alongside of the road and walked down a trail to get where the people were toiling under the hot and bright sun.  If their labor were not difficult enough with the sun and heat, the sky, as is typical this time of year in Maehongson, was filled with a smoky haze.  Mae Hong Son province is very hilly and covered with large forests.  During the dry season, especially at the end of the season in April, Hill Tribe people burn the hillsides as part of their slash and burn agricultural technique.  In addition to the people set fires there seem to be many naturally caused fires.  The burning forests fill the sky with smoke, with the heaviest smoke often settling into the many valleys of the province.  Sometimes the smoke is so heavy that flight operations at the Mae Hong Son (Maehongson) Airport.

There are many fires burning unattended and without any effort to stop them.  At this time, it is necessary to put the fires into a proper perspective.  My wife often tells me "Thailand not like America"  Well in the case of forest fires; forest fires in Thailand not like forest fires in America.  There is a story about the famous American environmentalist, John Muir, encountering a forest fire in the Sierras in the early 20th century.  When the fire approached him, he got up and stepped over it.  A similar situation exists in the forests of Mae Hong Son Province - not that I would try or even recommend trying to step over them.  The trees here drop their leaves due to heat and the lack of water.  Many of the trees are teak which drop very large leaves approximately 18 inches (46 cm) in diameter.  Without fire the forest floor would quickly be covered to knee depth with debris.  If a fire were to occur with knee deep debris, the living standing trees would most certainly become involved in the fire - just as happens every year in Western USA where fire have been suppressed for over 50 years or more.  Here in Thailand with just about yearly fires, the forest floor is kept relatively clean.  The fires burn through an area quickly and relatively cool due to the lack of fuel, more accurately kindling.

Everyday that we drove along Highway 1095 we encountered many areas that were burning sometimes at the edge of the highway. Only a couple times did we see a smoldering tree laying on the ground.  Most of the time we saw burning leaves and weeds. Besides greatly reducing the risk of major forest fires, the fires benefit the environment by returning organic material (carbon and minerals) to the soil and also keep insects under control.

We left Maehongson at 4:00 A.M. and drove a major portion of Highway 1095 in the dark.  At one point I was confused.  In the middle of no where, I was trying to figure out what large village we were approaching. As we got closer and the road turned to give a better perspective, I realized that I was looking at an undulating fire line crossing across several hillsides.  Although the line of fire was very long, the fire was burning slowly and appeared to be no more than 18 inches high.

Women Gathering Up Soybean Plants

It is under these smoke filled skies, that the people of Maw Hong Son live and work year after year.  The second group of workers that we encountered along Highway 1285 were not garlic workers.  They were people harvesting soybeans.  The sun dried soybean plants were being gathered and bundled together using narrow strips of bamboo.

A Worker Carrying Soybean Bundles to A Pick Up Truck

A man would suspend the bundles on each end of a long bamboo pole carried on his shoulder and carry them across the parched fields to a pick up truck parked alongside of the hut where the workers eat. Just as with the previous garlic workers, these soybean workers were just as kind, hospitable, and amused.  I was immediately offered and accepted a drink of water from them.  Duang and I arrived just before lunch so we went with the workers to their rest hut which was located at the end of the fields and adjacent to the flowing stream that runs along the length of the valley.

As the workers relaxed and ate their meal, I stood around and talked to them through Duang.  Without any warning one of the men reached out and gently touched the hair on my forearm - something that has happened many times to me while in Southeast Asia.  I have a great deal of body hair which my wife refers to as "Koh Ling" (Monkey Hair).  Men in Southeast Asia do not have much body hair so in addition to standing out as a foreigner, my hairiness sets me apart from others.  Rather than get upset about people touching me, I make a joke of it all - putting my hand out and asking for 20 Baht ($0.60).  The people are typically shocked and when they realize that I am only joking - we share a good laugh.  I have found that if you are willing to laugh at yourself you will always find someone to laugh with you.  With your guard down and demonstrating that you are approachable, the fun usually begins.

Women Shelling Soybeans Next to Rest Hut

Some of the women had set up next to the hut and were removing soybeans from the dried pods.  One of the women gave me some to eat.  I moved around to take their photographs.  As I was standing taking some photos, the man who appeared to be the big boss was talking loudly to someone.  I continued to shoot when I realized that he was talking to me.  I looked at him to see what the problem was.  Between his pantomime and motions of the women next to me I realized that I was standing on some of the soybean plants.  I was so embarrassed and apologized   I went over to him and offered my forearm and told him that he could have TWO touches for FREE,  He laughed like crazy telling Duang that he was just joking.  He took his two free touches and indicated to Duang that I was a pretty hairy guy.  I pulled my shirt down a little to expose part of my hairy chest to him.  He seemed impressed and laughed. Through Duang I told him that I had a lot more hair but that I was not going to show it even if he paid me.  We all shared a great laugh.

We spent about an hour and one-half with the soybean workers.  Asking and answering questions about each other's life.

We found no other workers that day, and headed back to Mae Hong Son.

We had an objective and were pleased to have attained it.  The key had been making our own decision with input from others.  Our willingness to take a chance to seek out workers and to engage them were paramount to achieving our objective.

Once again our photography efforts were a sort of allegory for life.  One needs an objective to develop a plan to achieve that objective.  Having and embracing a desire to explore the world about you presents opportunities for you to enrich your life and the life of those that you come upon.  As much as we may be tempted to live in fear; mindlessly in fear despite what the actual risks may be, life is so much more enjoyable when lived to its fullest extent.

Toiling In the Fields of Ban Nai Soi

The Garlic Workers of Ban Nai Soi

After our visit with the Monk who lives in a cave, we stopped at  Tham Pla Forest Park (Fish Cave).  We did not stop to see the fish.  We stopped to eat and drink.  Over the years of traveling throughout the world I have developed some rules that help make travel more pleasant.

One of the rules is "Go to the bathroom where you can".  The best time to go to the bathroom is when you find proper facilities or what you suspect are the best facilities for the remainder of the day.

Another rule is to "Eat where you can".  The best time to eat is when you find a place that meets your expectations or at worse, your minimum standards.  This helps to reduce the number of times that you may be forced to compromise.

Following the second rule dictated that we stop at Fish Cave.  We had eaten there four years ago and enjoyed the variety as well as the quality of the food.  Once again on this trip we were shocked at how few tourists there were.  We ended up eating at the same food stall that we had enjoyed our meal on the previous trip.  There were only three other people at the stall and roughly a total of 5 others at the other food stalls.  The owner of the food stall remembered us from our previous visit when we had spoken with her for about an hour.  In talking to her this year, we found out that tourism is down significantly starting about three years ago  After a relaxing lunch of sticky rice, grilled pork ribs, and a coconut water/sugar cane soft drink, we left and continued north to hopefully achieve another objective of this trip.

Duang Helping With the Garlic Harvest - 01 April 2009

Four years ago we had witnessed porters carrying bunches of garlic from the field, across a bamboo bridge, and up a hill to store them alongside the road to be picked up by trucks.  We followed the porters on their return trip to the garlic fields - down the rather steep hill, across a flowing stream using a rickety bamboo bridge, and across the dry rice paddies to where a crew of men and women were harvesting garlic.  It was very interesting and I wrote a blog about our experience.  http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2009/04/maehongson-april-1-2009.html 

The Garlic Porter - 01 April 2009

One of my objectives this year was to revisit the area and photograph the people harvesting the garlic.  We had checked with the staff at our hotel, and they had informed us that the garlic harvest had concluded.  We had seen many pick up trucks stacked 10 feet high above beds with bundles of garlic, so I expected that there were some activities associated with the harvest still ongoing.  It is always good to ask around for information but in the end the decision has to be your decision as to what YOU will do.  The information from the hotel was valuable in that we knew not to expect a great deal of opportunities for photographs of people working in the fields.  Undeterred we set out for the fields along Highway 1285 on the way to Ban Huai Phueng.  We spotted some motorbikes parked along the road  and a very large square mound of garlic - a definite sign that people were working down in the fields.  Down and some distance from the highway people were working.

I parked the truck a little further down the road to ensure our safety as well as others along the narrow road. I walked alone to scout out the area down the dirt road that lead from the garlic pile to a bamboo bridge that crossed the same stream that we had encountered four years ago.  Tentatively I climbed up the wide pace rungs that brought me to the bridge.  From my vantage point on the bridge I could see people working the fields.  Pleased and excited at this discovery, I returned to the truck to get my camera gear and Duang.

Porters Bringing Garlic to the Highway

We were soon joined by some of the workers transporting garlic bunches suspended from both ends of  bamboo pole balanced on their shoulder.  One of the people appeared to be the big boss and commenced to be a great model for me, sitting on the garlic mound and redistributing the bunches on top of the mound.

The Big Boss

More Garlic for the Pile

After talking with the people along the roadside, we walked down the dirt road and crossed the bridge to where the other workers were loading up bamboo poles with garlic bunches.

More Garlic to Be Hauled Across the Bridge

We had apparently arrived at the worker's lunch break, because after photographing for a while all the workers walked across the bridge to a small raised hut that dot the fields of Thailand.  These raised huts are constructed of timber and have thatched roofs.  The huts provided shelter from the sun during breaks, and are the locations where the workers eat their meals.

One of the Garlic Workers Prepares and Serves Lunch

Curious as to what was going on I wandered over to the hut.  I was immediately offered a cup of cool water from the communal water jug.  In the 95 to 100F heat, I definitely needed a drink and gratefully accepted their hospitality.  Duang caught up with us at the hut.  We were offered to share their lunch but since we had already eaten earlier, we thanked them and declined.  I may be going out on a limb but I do not believe that anyone would go hungry or thirsty in  rural Thailand.  The people are all too willing to share their food and drink; even with strangers.

Workers Eat Lunch With Fresh Banana Leaf "Tablecloth"

As I wandered about taking photos and the workers ate their meal, there was a very animated as well as loud exchange between Duang and the workers.  As much as we were interested in their lives, they were interested in our life - especially about Duang's experience living in America.  This is typical of all our travels, people are curious and interested in others; especially those who obviously have come from far away.  I suspect that these workers in a secluded area of Thailand and out in their fields have not encountered too many foreigners let alone to be able to speak with them for much time.  Our stops along the roads and streets of Southeast Asia often last one hour or more - better opportunities to understand what we are witnessing and to share our experiences with others.

A Worker Crosses the Bamboo Bridge

We left the workers and continued our trip to Ban Huai Phueng.  We encountered some soybean workers further up the road and spent two hours with them - or rather I spent two hours with them while Duang rested in the truck.  As I was returning to the truck she was coming down the trail looking for me.

During our last visit in 2009, we discovered a large open barn where garlic bunches were hung at multiple levels to dry.  Several workers were also working in the field adjacent to the barn which made for some nice photographs - photographs that hoped to replicate during this trip.  I was not exactly sure where the barn was.  Fortunately when we stopped at the Fish Cave to eat there was a loaded pick up truck of garlic.  I had Duang question the driver about the garlic barn.  Although we didn't remember the exact location, we were able to give him a very good description of it.  Without any hesitation, he told Duang that it was in Ban Nai Soi.  I remembered seeing the signs for the road to Ban Nai Soi so on our way back to Mae Hon Song, we took a side trip to Baan Nai Soi.

The Garlic Barn of Ban Nai Soi - Late Afternoon April 03, 2013

We found the garlic barn without any difficulty.  Unfortunately, the field next to the barn had not been used this year - it was just a mass of dry weeds.  I got out to photograph the garlic barn and noticed that a large area in front of the barn was covered with garlic stalks laid in orderly rows.  A man came along and Duang talked to him.  She told him of our wish to take photos of people working the garlic harvest.  He told her that the next morning starting at 8:00 A.M. he would have people working at the barn.  We thanked him and promised him, or maybe we warned him, that we would return the next morning.

Workers Tying Garlic Stalks Into Bundles

We returned to the barn in Ban Nai Soi the next morning and found several Shan workers squatting on the ground gathering stalks of garlic and tying them into bundles using strips of bamboo that had been soaked in water to make them flexible. I am often amazed and impressed in the ability of local people here in Southeast Asia to utilize and incorporate readily available and cheap materials into their work.

Under Smoky Haze, Shan Woman Bundle Garlic In Ban Nai Soi

I was thrilled to achieve another one of the objectives for this trip - much to the amusement of the workers.  They were quite amused and entertained as I crouched and squatted amongst them getting different angles and perspectives to photograph their toil.  My antics and sharing some of the photographs with them put them more at ease and consequently better photographic subjects.

Some of the women had yellow faces.  They were not suffering any type of liver failure or disease that I was aware of.  Rather than suffering liver failure, they were wearing  the traditional Myanmar make up called "Thanaka" or "Thanakha".  Thanaka is a yellowish white paste made from ground up tree bark.  Men and women in Myanmar (Burma) use it as a sunscreen, perfume, and refresher for their exposed skin.  Some women press a leaf into the paste on their cheeks to make a pretty leaf patterned stencil print.

A Shan Woman With Thanaka On Her Face

Shan Workers Amused by a Foreigner

We left the garlic barn to continue our quest for the day to achieve more objectives of this trip.