Latest Photo Gallery Available

A Scene from the Ramakien Carved In Wax During Night Procession on Asanha Puja Day

My latest photo gallery is now available for viewing at the link :

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/Thailand/Isaan/Ubon-Ratchathani-Candle/13453783_MYrRh#979354529_GAWrZ

University Dancer Awaiting Start of Night Procession on Khao Phansa Day

Over My Head - The Ramakian

Wax figures from a processional float - three faced figure depicts the Hindu Lord Brahama

In my first blog regarding the Ubon Ratchathani Candle festival, I wrote briefly about many of the wax figures and panoramas being from the "Ramakian" - the epic Thai classic literary work.  The "Ramakian" is based upon the ancient Indian epic the "Ramayana".  The plots are identical but in the "Ramakian" modifications have been made to include Thai style of dress, Thai geography, and a Thai sensibilities to the legends.  It is a complicated and very exotic legend of creation, heroes, villains, love and war - a little something for everyone.  Both the "Ramakian" and the "Ramayana" are epic sagas in the same magnitude, scope, as well as importance to culture as other epics such as "Beowulf", "The Song of Roland", "Odyssey", and "Gilgamesh".

In Bangkok at the Wat Phra Kaeo there are fabulous murals depicting scenes from the "Ramqakian".  Over a year ago I wrote a blog about these murals.

http://hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/2009/03/ramakian-murals.html

The "Ramayana" is believed to have been transported to Thailand and southeast Asia by traders.  The fact that a classic work of Indian literature would serve both as an inspiration and be absorbed into Thai culture is not surprising.  It seems to be an inherent trait of Thai culture to accept, tolerate, and incorporate different aspects of other cultures.  Just as Thai food is a sophisticated blend of tastes, textures, and sensations, Thai culture also reflects a long and varied assimilation of thoughts, traditions, and beliefs from different peoples.  Much of the process was precipitated and motivated by the many different wars of conquest and occupation in the region.  The Thai animist religion was absorbed into the Hindu religion which was absorbed into the current Buddhist religion to the point that beliefs, practices, and rituals of all three religions exist and flourish here in Isaan - indistinguishable from each other under the generalized identity of Buddhism.

Wax float with a large "Naga" along its side

In the Ramakian there are many fabulous mythological creatures - composite creatures that reside in the mythological Himmapan Forest.  The composite creatures are part one animal or human and part another animal.  There are Rhino, Monkey, Cattle, Fish, Bird, Crab, Naga (serpent), Crocodile, Canine, Horse, Lion, and Deer based creatures.  My personal favorite is the "Thep Kinnaree"

The "Thep Kinnaree" is the most beautiful creature in the Himmapan Forest.  It is one half woman, the top half and one half swan, the bottom half.  There are golden Kinnaree statues lining the road leading to the main terminal at Bangkok's international airport.  There are also many Kinnaree at the Grand Palace in Bangkok.  The male counterpart of the Kinnaree are "Thep Kinnanorn"- top half is a male human with the bottom half being a "Hongsa" - a mythological bird with a long beak.

The Himmapan Forest is located in the Himalaya Mountains below Buddhist heavens - not all that far from Thailand .  However us mortals can neither see, approach, or enter the forest which is unfortunate.  I would love to visit and photograph some of the exotic creatures there.

There are many depictions of Himmapan creatures in the art of India, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, China and other countries in Asia.  There are many different creatures and many of them look very much alike.  In researching what sights I had seen on the wax floats at the Ubon Ratchathani I easily became confused and overwhelmed by the minute differences between some of the creatures - sort of trying to differentiate the meaning of some Thai words that due to the tonal aspects of the Thai language have 5 very different meanings depending on how the word is pronounced!  After awhile many of the different creatures started to look all alike.

I did find a very helpful and useful website to learn or at least to try to learn more about the Himmapan Forest and its mythological inhabitants.  It is well worth the effort to browse the website below"

http://www.himmapan.com/about_himmapan.html

The legends and creatures of the Ramakian as well as aspects of Hindu writings were heavily represented in the wax work adorning the floats created for the Ubon Ratchathani

Erawan the mythological 33 headed elephant - typically shown with only 3 heads

Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival - Part 2

Having learned a lesson the previous day, we immediately took a Tuk-Tuk when we left our hotel at 7:30 A.M. to got to the Ubon Ratchathani Candle festival sites.

Our goal for the morning was to look at the large floats up close prior to the start of the morning procession which was scheduled to commence at 8:30 A.M.  We, or rather Duang, explained to the Tik-Tuk driver what we wanted to do.  He brought us to the area near Wat Sriubonrattanaram where the side streets were filled with the wax work floats awaiting the start of the morning's procession.

We were not disappointed at all with the access to closely inspect the wax sculptures.  There were no barriers or security to prevent you from getting as close as you wanted to each of the floats.  The biggest difficulty was attempting to take a meaningful photograph of the float without some one in the picture.  Thais like to be photographed and especially love to have their picture taken in front of something unique such as a large wax float as they give the "V" gesture or pose with Momma and Grand Momma.  I patiently waited for the opportunities to take my shots as the smell of the sculptures heating up in the morning sun transported me back in space and time to my young days back in Groton, Connecticut, to the days of melted Crayola crayons on hot summer afternoons.  Duang even more patiently waited for me to take my shots before moving on to the next attraction.

In response to posting some photos on my Facebook account, a friend asked about the wax sculptures.  The wax sculptures are not solid wax.  The sculptures and panoramas would be way to heavy and expensive if they were solid beeswax.  The heads are hollow.  The large figures are wax placed upon either Styrofoam substrates or on  chicken wire/plaster frames.  Wax is applied to the substrate and the details carved into the wax layer(s).  It is our intention to visit the area once again next year but earlier in July to witness the sculptures and panoramas being created.

In addition to the staging of the floats for the upcoming procession, the side streets were also filling up with performers who were also going to participate in the morning procession.  While the streets were filling with performers and people like us wandering around to get close up views, the sidewalks were filled with a combination of static stalls and wandering vendors selling soft drinks, water, food, balloons, and small toys.  Because of the religious context of the day, the start of Buddhist Lent, there were no sales of beer or the local version of moonshine whiskey along the procession route.  Unlike most events that we attend here in Isaan we did not see anyone consuming alcohol or any one under the influence of alcohol.  Also unlike so many of the events that we attend here in Isaan, we did not witness any fights.  I suspect (tongue in cheek along with a wink of an eye) that the lack of alcohol and the absence of fist fights are related. It made for a very enjoyable festival and from what I observed it didn't seem to impair anyone from enjoying the events.

The entrepreneurship of the Lao Loum people never seems to cease to amaze me.  There were all kinds of places - stalls, booths, or just umbrellas over an ice chest where you could buy water, soda, or juices.  It appeared to me that any one who had a cooler and the seed money to buy drinks and ice could set up to make some money.  I did not see any of the business licenses, health permits, tax ID numbers, or other bureaucratic requirements that would be required to do the same back in the USA.  I was very surprised to see that the prices for the beverages were not inflated because of the festival.  The cost of a drink was the same as the everyday price for the same drink at the 7-11 during the remainder of the year.  I could not help but reflect upon the outrageous cost of a soda or other soft drink at an American sports or music concert venue.

Intersections were popular locations for food vendors.  Food was grilled over charcoal fires contained in barbecues constructed out or steel barrels split in two and set up horizontally on metal legs.  Other foods were boiled or fried over small charcoal fires contained in two gallon sized refractory lined metal cans.  The odors of the fires and various foods that were being cooked added to the overall ambiance of the event.  Some large corporations were passing out free bottles of ice water and cold fruit juices.  With this being Thailand, no one was keeping track of how many a person was given.  Since it was getting later in the morning and despite the heavy clouded sky, it was hot and humid, I was perspiring heavily.  Fortunately the free drink people took good care of me and Duang ensured that I had plenty of soda to drink - soda in a plastic bag filled with ice along with a  straw ($0.35 USD each).  Often when you buy a soft drink from a vendor here in Isaan, the vendor will pour the drink into a small plastic bag filled with crushed ice along with a straw thus retaining the original container or more importantly being able to receive the fee for recycling the container for themselves.

Just as the previous night's procession, there were many dance groups.  The dance groups were from local and regional elementary and high schools along with universities.  They perform traditional dances to traditional music played by musicians riding along with them in a truck or to recorded music played (blared?) over large speakers mounted on a vehicle as part of their entourage.  The music is high energy and it is difficult to refrain from dancing to it.  Mahlam Lao music is played throughout Isaan all the time.  I have seen and heard it blasting from portable radios as people worked in the fields planting sugar cane and harvesting rice.  The previous night I was unable to get close up photographs of the beautiful dancers so one of my objectives for the day was to get some close up photos of the performers.  I was not disappointed with the opportunities that presented themselves throughout the day and evening.  I seriously believe that students are taught modeling and posing as part of their curriculum - they all seem to be so photogenic.

After the morning procession, we retired to the Wat.  According to the schedule of events there was to be "give King candle to Monk" and "give King loin cloth" from 11:00 A.M. to 12:00 P.M.  at the Wat.  It seemed like it would be interesting if for no other reason to see what the event actually was.  We arrived at the Wat and it was curiously not crowded whats so ever.  A Monk arrived and blessed us along with the 5 other people who were there.  We waited a while - being entertained by a young toddler's antics while her mother was worshiping.  After a while a group of people arrived, obviously not involved in any kind of ceremony but a falang, his girl friend, and extended family.  As so often happens here in Isaan, Duang and the girl friend got involved in an extensive conversation - leaving the falang from Sweden and I to have our own extended conversation.  We never saw any "give King loin cloth" or "give King candle to Monk" but spent an enjoyable afternoon and received a blessing - not bad.

During the two days of the Festival I was often asked by people to answer some questions.  The questions were related to homework assignments for students learning English.  Because the students were often shy, the contact was typically made by either their teacher or their mother.  This allowed us to meet many people and learn more about the region as well as the festival.  It helped to pass the time quickly.

We spent some time talking to an older woman at a booth sponsored by a knife company.  The booth was actually a school where the company taught people to do fancy culinary carving using their products.  She was working on carving a lotus flower out of a piece of pumpkin.  The instructor had given her one of his flowers as a model.  His flower was absolutely gorgeous.  The were also samples of carved carrots and leaves carved from pumpkin.  Duang and I watched the woman, a boy who came along, and ate some lunch in the relative cool of the covered booth.  After awhile the woman finished her flower and did a leaf.  I praised her leaf and jokingly suggested that she specialize in carving leaves.  At this point, I tried my hand at carving a leaf much to every one's amusement.  There always seems to be something to do to either amuse yourself or others here in Isaan.

5:00 P.M. quickly rolled around and it was time to prepare for the evening procession but that is for another blog entry ...

Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival - Part 1 "The Begining"

Yesterday, 28 July, we returned home from a two day stay in Ubon Ratchathani to attend the Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival.

Ubon Ratchathani is a six hour drive southeast of our home in Udonthani.  During the Vietnam or American, depending upon your perspective, War, Ubon like Udon was a large United States Air Force base.  Just as in Udon, the former air base is now the municipal airport.  The area around Ubon is agricultural and the city is a financial, educational, and market center for the surrounding villages.

Ubon is famous for their Candle Festival.  The Candle Festival is associated with the start of Buddhist Lent season.  On Asarnha Puja Day, the day of the full moon during the eighth lunar month (July since according to the original Thai calendar the first lunar month is December), there is a large merit making ritual that commemorates Buddha's first sermons. The merit making ritual involves offering candles to the Monks at local Wats and listening to sermons related to Buddha's teachings.

This year, Asarnha Puja Day occurred on July 26 with the start of Buddhist Lent, Wan Kao Pansa (the first day of the waning moon of the eighth month of the lunar calendar being July 27th.  Buddhist Lent?  Yes, there is a Lenten period that runs for 90 days.  The practise of Lent, "phansa", goes back to Lord Buddha's time.  To prevent Monks from inadvertently trampling freshly planted rice seedlings or harming insects in the thick mud created by the heavy rains of the rainy season in the months from July to October, Buddha required his disciples to remain in their monasteries during that period of time.  They were prohibited from spending the night in any temple but their designated one.  During the 90 day period referred to as "Khao Phansa" (rains retreat), the Monks do not make pilgrimages so they have time to study scriptures.  In the time before electricity, the Monks studied scriptures by candlelight.  For the start of Kao Phansa, Wan Kao Phansa, villagers would make offerings of candles to the Monks to assist them in their study of the scriptures.  Other common household items such as matches, soap, wash cloths, towels, and tooth paste are also offered to the Monks to provide for their needs during their 90 day retreat.  Offering items on Wan Kao Phansa is more beneficial for the donor than on other days.  The donors lives will be blessed with  happiness, wisdom, and health.

One of the large floats during Wan Kao Phansa night procession

The tradition of having a festival along with ornate candle offerings in Ubon started in the early 20th century.  The governor at the time was concerned about the number of deaths as well as injuries that were happening during the traditional rocket festival at this time.  The villagers were also getting injured in many alcohol fueled fights.  The Governor, who was a Prince, ordered an end to the rocket festival and the start of a candle festival instead where candles would be presented to the Monks.

For the first festivals, communities would gather bees wax and create fancy candles.  The fancy candle would be placed in a sedan chair, a chair that has long poles extending from it in order that it can be carried upon the shoulders of porters.  The candles were then paraded to the Town Hall where the Prince would award prizes to the communities that made the most  beautiful candles.

The competition for awards from the Prince over time caused an escalation in both the size and elaborate designs associated with the candles.  Candles increased from bamboo diameter size to banana stalk diameter size to today's large panoramas.  Candles evolved from simple smooth surface to surfaces decorated with papers and fabrics to today's extremely intricate carvings.  Today different colored waxes are entering into the competition for recognition.  The process continues to evolve with the goal always to get a leg up on the competition.

In addition to the traditional Thai wax creations there is also an international wax carving competition associated with the Ubon Candle Festival.  Artists from Spain, China, Germany, Japan, Poland, as well as some other countries that I can not remember submitted works of "wax art".  I don't remember all of the submittals because, to be frank, they paled in comparison to any of the Thai works.  One piece of "art" was a bull carved from wax.  The bull shape was created from a series of large flat surfaces akin to shaping the wax with a snow shovel.  Without too much hyperbole I believe that with a little effort I could create a similar wax sculpture.  Another international entry was a basic rectangular tower with some surface texture carved into it and a round ball atop the tower.  It would not be unrealistic to contemplate that with some training i.e. 2 to 4 weeks I could produce a similar work.  As for the Thai wax works, there is no way no matter how much time or training I received that I could even approach the beauty, complexity, or intricacies of their art. To me comparing the the international works to the Thai works would be like comparing or rather trying to compare sculpture by Michelangelo to a brick wall.  The winning international competition entry was a Panda from China.  It was interesting bordering perhaps on "cute" but hardly jaw dropping or inspiring.

International competition winner from China - "Panda"

Thai wax carving - Ubon Ratchathani

The Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival now includes entertainment such as dancing, traditional Lao Loum music and singing competition.  With this being Isaan, there were all kinds of booths as well as stalls to purchase food and soft drinks.

The Candle Festival actually started on June 28 with the international artists commencing to create their works.  From July 1 to July 31 on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays there were cultural performances.  During the last two weeks of the Festival, people can view demonstrations of local silk weaving as well as watch the large wax floats being built and carved.

Our visit this year was limited to the Asarnha Puja Day and Wan Kao Pansa events.  We scheduled our arrival on Monday 26, 2010 so that we could witness the ceremony "ceremony of inviting the candle of Royal watercourse and king loin cloth (Phaarbnamfom cloth)" starting at 15:30 to 17:00 followed by the Bai Srii ritual and "celebrating the King candle".  After lunch at our hotel we inquired about the location of the various ceremonies and were told that they were about 1-1/2 to 2 kilometers away.  In America we have a saying about things being a "country mile away".  The implication is that out in the country distances are not accurate and one mile could very well be more like 3 or 4 miles away.  This must also be true here in Isaan.  We set off for what was supposed to be only a 1 to 1-1/2 mile walk to the festival site.  After quite a ways walking along on the typical urban Thai sidewalks, uneven, broken pavement, various tripping hazards and obstructions, we asked for directions from a local shop keeper.  She informed us that it was another 2.5 kilometers away.  That decided the issue.  We were going to take a Tuk-Tuk the rest of the way.  My camera backpack was filled with two digital cameras, a flash, spare batteries, rain gear, and an umbrella which made it about 12 kilos (25 pounds).  My shoulders were aching.  We flagged down a Tuk-Tuk and for 60 baht ($1.80) he took us though 4 police traffic barricades to deliver us exactly at the Festival site.

The Festival was concentrated at two locations, Ubon National Museum and Wat Sriubonrattanaram, which are fortunately across the street from each other.  By chance or fortune we ended up at the Ubon National Museum.  It was here that the international wax sculptures were on display, along with a small performing stage as well as numerous refreshment stalls.  After wandering around for awhile we gravitated towards the performing stage area.  There was a competition going on.  Young girls from 5 years old to around 14 years old were each performing the same song.  The song is a very upbeat about spicy pappaya salad, "Pauk Pauk" (Lao) or "Som Tom" (Thai), which along with sticky rice is a staple of the Isaan diet.  The song is an invitation to passing people to come buy and eat the girl's very tasty food.  It is a sort of "Hee Haw" type of song and dance routine.  It is not sophisticated but it is definitely very entertaining.

We stayed at the competition from contestants number nine to the last contestant number 26.  We heard the same song 18 times - no it was actually 19 times.  Before the winners were announced, the young woman who actually recorded and made the song popular came out and sang the song.  She may have been twenty-two years old but came out wearing a schoolgirl's short plaid skirt, knee socks, and high heel boots.  The schoolgirl theme or perhaps "fantasy" is very popular in Isaan.  Just as the competition ended, the rain started.  This is the rainy season and it rained both days during our stay.  However it was not much of an issue since we are accustomed to being wet, we brought rain gear, and the rains never last very long.  The longest rain lasted about 30 minutes and the shortest shower was about one minute - almost like a bucket of water being drained from above.  At first I thought it was man made and part of the night procession light and sound show.  We found shelter from the rain where soft drinks were being sold.  It was a good time to refresh ourselves and to relax.

After the rain shower we went out to the street between the two sites.  This is where the procession was being held.  On one side of the street there was a very formal grandstand complete with leather sofas, metal chairs, beverage service and all the amenities that one would expect for dignitaries.  Across from the grandstand were bleachers that ran out of sight.  There were some signs indicating section and row numbers.  Since it was around 5:00 P.M. with the event scheduled to start at 7:00 P.M. the bleachers were empty.  Duang brought me over to the bleacher section directly across from the center of the grandstand that had a canopy over it using scaffolding along with tarps.  I protested to my wife that we had to pay money and have a ticket to sit there.  She assured me that it was free.  She confirmed it with another person sitting in the area.  We climbed the bleachers up to the very top where I could stand to take photographs without blocking any one's view.  We sat there watching the preparations for televising as well as staging the show.  A fire truck came along and washed down the street which I thought was rather odd.  Later it all made perfect sense.  The dancers walked barefoot along the street.  As part of the performance, some of the dancers supplicated themselves on the street.  The intent of the washing was to remove any debris that could harm the performers.

The show was extremely entertaining.  It was a merit making ritual as well as a light/sound show.  Prior to the start of the show some men came along and passed out yellow candles to all the spectators in the vicinity of the grandstand.  Some boys set out a series of white tea candles on the street forming a lit pathway from the road through the gate of the Wat behind our location.  As part of the merit making ritual, dignitaries and performers carried lighted candles as well as offerings along the parade route  into the Wat circling the grounds three times.  The entire event was on national television.  We got a phone call from home that our 15 month old grandson, Peelwat was enjoying the event on television.  However every time that he saw a falang (foreigner) he would point at the TV and say "Nee Nee" ("here here" in Lao) indicating that he thought that he saw me in the crowd.  I guess it may also be true that all us foreigners look alike - at least to a 15 month old!

There were intermittent showers but they did not affect the performers at all.  We were dry underneath our canopy and we remained quite comfortable all evening.  Part of the show involved dancers dressed in traditional Thai minority costumes performing folk dances to traditional music in simulated fog.  It was very impressive.  I am constantly amazed as well as taken aback at the beauty, grace and poise of Isaan women.  In the Isaan culture beauty is highly valued, regarded, and sort.  The dancing reflects the culture of the people.  Another impressive sight at all these events in Isaan is the participation of families.  It is quite common to see three and four generations of a family watching these events and rituals.  Babies and toddlers are introduced to their culture and heritage at a very early age.  The people of Isaan are proud of their heritage and are taking steps to ensure that their culture is passed on to future generations.

Most of the performers were high school and university students.  A vast majority of the performers were female, followed by Ladyboys, and only a few males.  It seemed a little curious to have high school boys dressed up and acting like women but here in Thailand it is a common sight.  No one pays it much attention and such behavior is tolerated here.  Some of the "Ladyboys" are not very proficient and are not fooling anyone.  You will often see them at the back of the dance troupe as it passes.

A big part of the evening was  the procession of the large floats that communities created for the festival and merit making.  The biggest float and most elaborate float was commissioned by His Royal Highness the King.  It was grand and jaw dropping.  Most of the floats contained mythological creatures from the Himmapan Forest as described in the classical Thai literary masterpiece "The Ramakien".  One creature is the Garuda - a hawk like creature from Hindu and Buddhist mythology.  Another is Erawan - a three headed elephant. Thai mythology involves an amalgam of Hindu as well as Buddhist myths, legends, and creatures.  During the Candle Festival these are brought forth in wax carvings.  The combination of these creatures, the dancing, the music, and the lights makes for an unforgetable experience.  It was another reminder of why I enjoy living here in Isaan so much.  It is exciting, unique, and invigorating.

After nine hours away from our room, we returned to our hotel at 10:30 P.M. exhausted but eagerly anticipating the next day's events.