Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival - Part 1 "The Begining"

Yesterday, 28 July, we returned home from a two day stay in Ubon Ratchathani to attend the Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival.

Ubon Ratchathani is a six hour drive southeast of our home in Udonthani.  During the Vietnam or American, depending upon your perspective, War, Ubon like Udon was a large United States Air Force base.  Just as in Udon, the former air base is now the municipal airport.  The area around Ubon is agricultural and the city is a financial, educational, and market center for the surrounding villages.

Ubon is famous for their Candle Festival.  The Candle Festival is associated with the start of Buddhist Lent season.  On Asarnha Puja Day, the day of the full moon during the eighth lunar month (July since according to the original Thai calendar the first lunar month is December), there is a large merit making ritual that commemorates Buddha's first sermons. The merit making ritual involves offering candles to the Monks at local Wats and listening to sermons related to Buddha's teachings.

This year, Asarnha Puja Day occurred on July 26 with the start of Buddhist Lent, Wan Kao Pansa (the first day of the waning moon of the eighth month of the lunar calendar being July 27th.  Buddhist Lent?  Yes, there is a Lenten period that runs for 90 days.  The practise of Lent, "phansa", goes back to Lord Buddha's time.  To prevent Monks from inadvertently trampling freshly planted rice seedlings or harming insects in the thick mud created by the heavy rains of the rainy season in the months from July to October, Buddha required his disciples to remain in their monasteries during that period of time.  They were prohibited from spending the night in any temple but their designated one.  During the 90 day period referred to as "Khao Phansa" (rains retreat), the Monks do not make pilgrimages so they have time to study scriptures.  In the time before electricity, the Monks studied scriptures by candlelight.  For the start of Kao Phansa, Wan Kao Phansa, villagers would make offerings of candles to the Monks to assist them in their study of the scriptures.  Other common household items such as matches, soap, wash cloths, towels, and tooth paste are also offered to the Monks to provide for their needs during their 90 day retreat.  Offering items on Wan Kao Phansa is more beneficial for the donor than on other days.  The donors lives will be blessed with  happiness, wisdom, and health.

One of the large floats during Wan Kao Phansa night procession

The tradition of having a festival along with ornate candle offerings in Ubon started in the early 20th century.  The governor at the time was concerned about the number of deaths as well as injuries that were happening during the traditional rocket festival at this time.  The villagers were also getting injured in many alcohol fueled fights.  The Governor, who was a Prince, ordered an end to the rocket festival and the start of a candle festival instead where candles would be presented to the Monks.

For the first festivals, communities would gather bees wax and create fancy candles.  The fancy candle would be placed in a sedan chair, a chair that has long poles extending from it in order that it can be carried upon the shoulders of porters.  The candles were then paraded to the Town Hall where the Prince would award prizes to the communities that made the most  beautiful candles.

The competition for awards from the Prince over time caused an escalation in both the size and elaborate designs associated with the candles.  Candles increased from bamboo diameter size to banana stalk diameter size to today's large panoramas.  Candles evolved from simple smooth surface to surfaces decorated with papers and fabrics to today's extremely intricate carvings.  Today different colored waxes are entering into the competition for recognition.  The process continues to evolve with the goal always to get a leg up on the competition.

In addition to the traditional Thai wax creations there is also an international wax carving competition associated with the Ubon Candle Festival.  Artists from Spain, China, Germany, Japan, Poland, as well as some other countries that I can not remember submitted works of "wax art".  I don't remember all of the submittals because, to be frank, they paled in comparison to any of the Thai works.  One piece of "art" was a bull carved from wax.  The bull shape was created from a series of large flat surfaces akin to shaping the wax with a snow shovel.  Without too much hyperbole I believe that with a little effort I could create a similar wax sculpture.  Another international entry was a basic rectangular tower with some surface texture carved into it and a round ball atop the tower.  It would not be unrealistic to contemplate that with some training i.e. 2 to 4 weeks I could produce a similar work.  As for the Thai wax works, there is no way no matter how much time or training I received that I could even approach the beauty, complexity, or intricacies of their art. To me comparing the the international works to the Thai works would be like comparing or rather trying to compare sculpture by Michelangelo to a brick wall.  The winning international competition entry was a Panda from China.  It was interesting bordering perhaps on "cute" but hardly jaw dropping or inspiring.

International competition winner from China - "Panda"

Thai wax carving - Ubon Ratchathani

The Ubon Ratchathani Candle Festival now includes entertainment such as dancing, traditional Lao Loum music and singing competition.  With this being Isaan, there were all kinds of booths as well as stalls to purchase food and soft drinks.

The Candle Festival actually started on June 28 with the international artists commencing to create their works.  From July 1 to July 31 on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays there were cultural performances.  During the last two weeks of the Festival, people can view demonstrations of local silk weaving as well as watch the large wax floats being built and carved.

Our visit this year was limited to the Asarnha Puja Day and Wan Kao Pansa events.  We scheduled our arrival on Monday 26, 2010 so that we could witness the ceremony "ceremony of inviting the candle of Royal watercourse and king loin cloth (Phaarbnamfom cloth)" starting at 15:30 to 17:00 followed by the Bai Srii ritual and "celebrating the King candle".  After lunch at our hotel we inquired about the location of the various ceremonies and were told that they were about 1-1/2 to 2 kilometers away.  In America we have a saying about things being a "country mile away".  The implication is that out in the country distances are not accurate and one mile could very well be more like 3 or 4 miles away.  This must also be true here in Isaan.  We set off for what was supposed to be only a 1 to 1-1/2 mile walk to the festival site.  After quite a ways walking along on the typical urban Thai sidewalks, uneven, broken pavement, various tripping hazards and obstructions, we asked for directions from a local shop keeper.  She informed us that it was another 2.5 kilometers away.  That decided the issue.  We were going to take a Tuk-Tuk the rest of the way.  My camera backpack was filled with two digital cameras, a flash, spare batteries, rain gear, and an umbrella which made it about 12 kilos (25 pounds).  My shoulders were aching.  We flagged down a Tuk-Tuk and for 60 baht ($1.80) he took us though 4 police traffic barricades to deliver us exactly at the Festival site.

The Festival was concentrated at two locations, Ubon National Museum and Wat Sriubonrattanaram, which are fortunately across the street from each other.  By chance or fortune we ended up at the Ubon National Museum.  It was here that the international wax sculptures were on display, along with a small performing stage as well as numerous refreshment stalls.  After wandering around for awhile we gravitated towards the performing stage area.  There was a competition going on.  Young girls from 5 years old to around 14 years old were each performing the same song.  The song is a very upbeat about spicy pappaya salad, "Pauk Pauk" (Lao) or "Som Tom" (Thai), which along with sticky rice is a staple of the Isaan diet.  The song is an invitation to passing people to come buy and eat the girl's very tasty food.  It is a sort of "Hee Haw" type of song and dance routine.  It is not sophisticated but it is definitely very entertaining.

We stayed at the competition from contestants number nine to the last contestant number 26.  We heard the same song 18 times - no it was actually 19 times.  Before the winners were announced, the young woman who actually recorded and made the song popular came out and sang the song.  She may have been twenty-two years old but came out wearing a schoolgirl's short plaid skirt, knee socks, and high heel boots.  The schoolgirl theme or perhaps "fantasy" is very popular in Isaan.  Just as the competition ended, the rain started.  This is the rainy season and it rained both days during our stay.  However it was not much of an issue since we are accustomed to being wet, we brought rain gear, and the rains never last very long.  The longest rain lasted about 30 minutes and the shortest shower was about one minute - almost like a bucket of water being drained from above.  At first I thought it was man made and part of the night procession light and sound show.  We found shelter from the rain where soft drinks were being sold.  It was a good time to refresh ourselves and to relax.

After the rain shower we went out to the street between the two sites.  This is where the procession was being held.  On one side of the street there was a very formal grandstand complete with leather sofas, metal chairs, beverage service and all the amenities that one would expect for dignitaries.  Across from the grandstand were bleachers that ran out of sight.  There were some signs indicating section and row numbers.  Since it was around 5:00 P.M. with the event scheduled to start at 7:00 P.M. the bleachers were empty.  Duang brought me over to the bleacher section directly across from the center of the grandstand that had a canopy over it using scaffolding along with tarps.  I protested to my wife that we had to pay money and have a ticket to sit there.  She assured me that it was free.  She confirmed it with another person sitting in the area.  We climbed the bleachers up to the very top where I could stand to take photographs without blocking any one's view.  We sat there watching the preparations for televising as well as staging the show.  A fire truck came along and washed down the street which I thought was rather odd.  Later it all made perfect sense.  The dancers walked barefoot along the street.  As part of the performance, some of the dancers supplicated themselves on the street.  The intent of the washing was to remove any debris that could harm the performers.

The show was extremely entertaining.  It was a merit making ritual as well as a light/sound show.  Prior to the start of the show some men came along and passed out yellow candles to all the spectators in the vicinity of the grandstand.  Some boys set out a series of white tea candles on the street forming a lit pathway from the road through the gate of the Wat behind our location.  As part of the merit making ritual, dignitaries and performers carried lighted candles as well as offerings along the parade route  into the Wat circling the grounds three times.  The entire event was on national television.  We got a phone call from home that our 15 month old grandson, Peelwat was enjoying the event on television.  However every time that he saw a falang (foreigner) he would point at the TV and say "Nee Nee" ("here here" in Lao) indicating that he thought that he saw me in the crowd.  I guess it may also be true that all us foreigners look alike - at least to a 15 month old!

There were intermittent showers but they did not affect the performers at all.  We were dry underneath our canopy and we remained quite comfortable all evening.  Part of the show involved dancers dressed in traditional Thai minority costumes performing folk dances to traditional music in simulated fog.  It was very impressive.  I am constantly amazed as well as taken aback at the beauty, grace and poise of Isaan women.  In the Isaan culture beauty is highly valued, regarded, and sort.  The dancing reflects the culture of the people.  Another impressive sight at all these events in Isaan is the participation of families.  It is quite common to see three and four generations of a family watching these events and rituals.  Babies and toddlers are introduced to their culture and heritage at a very early age.  The people of Isaan are proud of their heritage and are taking steps to ensure that their culture is passed on to future generations.

Most of the performers were high school and university students.  A vast majority of the performers were female, followed by Ladyboys, and only a few males.  It seemed a little curious to have high school boys dressed up and acting like women but here in Thailand it is a common sight.  No one pays it much attention and such behavior is tolerated here.  Some of the "Ladyboys" are not very proficient and are not fooling anyone.  You will often see them at the back of the dance troupe as it passes.

A big part of the evening was  the procession of the large floats that communities created for the festival and merit making.  The biggest float and most elaborate float was commissioned by His Royal Highness the King.  It was grand and jaw dropping.  Most of the floats contained mythological creatures from the Himmapan Forest as described in the classical Thai literary masterpiece "The Ramakien".  One creature is the Garuda - a hawk like creature from Hindu and Buddhist mythology.  Another is Erawan - a three headed elephant. Thai mythology involves an amalgam of Hindu as well as Buddhist myths, legends, and creatures.  During the Candle Festival these are brought forth in wax carvings.  The combination of these creatures, the dancing, the music, and the lights makes for an unforgetable experience.  It was another reminder of why I enjoy living here in Isaan so much.  It is exciting, unique, and invigorating.

After nine hours away from our room, we returned to our hotel at 10:30 P.M. exhausted but eagerly anticipating the next day's events.

200th Post - Elementary School Program

This is the 200th post of Allen's World - I guess some sort of a milestone.

Last night we had a late night returning home from Tahsang Village after midnight.

I am not sure what we did but we enjoyed ourselves immensely. It is not that I drank too much and can not remember the night. It was the event that we attended and participated in was unlike anything I have attended before. I will try to describe it as best as I can and give my interpretation of the events.

My wife had told me that a teacher at the Tahsang Village was leaving to teach at another village school. There was going to be a party to wish him good luck. It all sounded simple enough and not anything all that special.

As the day wore on she gave me a better idea of what the evening's activities would be. There was going to be another parade where the students would walk from Tahsang Village to the Elementary School. People were going to eat dinner at the school. Last year we had attended a fund raiser at the school so I thought that I had a pretty good idea of what to expect. Later in the afternoon, Duang's son stopped by to take Duang to the Chinese wholesale store to buy 3 cases 1.25 liter bottles of soda for the school children. He bought two huge (2 foot diameter by 5 foot long) bags of snack food for the children.

I was involved in a long conversation to Korea over the phone, so we were unable to head out to Tahsang until 6:00 PM thereby missing out on the "parade". We arrived at the school and it was very apparent that the evening would be different for sure.

The front of the school was filled with all types of tents of various construction. Some tents were typical nylon camping tents that you buy at sporting goods stores. Some tents were made out of tarps placed over sticks that had been driven into the ground to form loops. Some tents were very similar to tepees.

About 300 children were running around playing tag, muay thai boxing, and in general having a great time. In the center of the field was a large pyramid of wood awaiting to be lit to create a bonfire. There were several of the pavilions that are used to provide shelter at celebrations. Amongst the encampment, at least 8 village dogs were running about.

We parked the truck to offload the supplies and were greeted by one of the teachers. She arranged for help to offload the truck and wanted our names. She needed our names so that the man at the PA system could announce our donation and give us proper credit. It seems that in Isaan there is no such thing as an anonymous donation.

After offloading the truck we went to a covered area where people were being served food that was being prepared and cooked by mothers of some of the students. As I looked around I started getting a better idea of what was going on. Some of the adults were wearing portions of Boy Scout uniforms. Because the people are not wealthy, there was only one man who had a complete uniform. Two women wore US Marine Corps Drill Instructor style hats and several had only a Boy Scout bandanna around their neck to indicate their affiliation.

This appeared to be a sort of Boy Scout Jamboree except that the number of girls far exceeded the number of boys. Again, because the children are poor, for those that had a uniform, their uniform consisted solely of a bandanna around their neck. I questioned Duang about what was going on and she indicated that this was like a party for the end of the year and beginning of a new year. Nine village schools were participating in the camp out. On Saturday the students were going to pack up and hike to a different village school to camp out. Friday night, Tahsang Village was hosting the group and was responsible for feeding the masses and running the program.

Before we even took our seats to eat, I was given a glass of whiskey and soda. I shared it with Duang and she was eventually given her own glass. It seems that all social functions here, there is drinking. Duang introduced me to many of the men at the table. No women other than Duang were seated at the table. The women had apparently eaten earlier and were occupied serving the men. Duang and I sort of bridge typical Isaan customs at these events. Men and women typically sit apart from each other including merit making rituals at the Wat. However since I am clueless most of the time as to what is going on, I sit with Duang so that she can explain to me. Our seemingly breaches of etiquette are tolerated and apparently accepted. However I don't think that we will be influencing Isaan Lao Loum customs any time soon.

After finishing our meal, we were directed to the area in front of the pavilion where the announcer and PA equipment were located. A row of stuffed sofas and chairs along with a cocktail table were situated at the edge of the field. Behind the stuffed furniture was a row of plastic chairs where we were directed to sit. This arrangement is typical at Isaan events. Monks, dignitaries and government officials sit in the front rows on stuffed furniture. No Monks attended the festivities. The front row was comprised of each village's "Headman" and some dignitaries from the District. When the dignitaries were seated, a woman brought them glasses of beer and whiskey. Seated behind them, Duang and I were given glasses of cola.

The Master of Ceremonies commenced his address when there was huge commotion to the side of the public address system. The lights flicked and went out . The sound system went dead. The air was filled with cries, growls and flying dirt. One of the 8 village dogs had tried to get up very close and extremely personal with one of the dogs, she vehemently objected as well as a couple of the other male dogs. During their battle, the extension cord supplying electricity to the pavilion was dislodged. Order and electricity were eventually restored although the dogs continued to have their "differences" the rest of the night - a little bit of unplanned and unexpected entertainment.

The planned entertainment commenced with a fire lighting ceremony. Some girls came out in costumes along with headdresses and danced around the wood pyre in a skipping type dance in accompaniment to conga drum beats as well as chanting my the "Boy Scout" adults. Their outfits were brown sacks that had been decorated with day glow paint. Four black lights had been mounted on bamboo poles around the pyre. Their headdress was a day glow head band with a cardboard day glow feather over each ear. I was not certain if the girls represented some Lao Loum deity, Animist spirits, or Thai mythological figures. When they and the adults gave out war whoops a la 1950's television and movies that I realized that they were "Indian" maidens. After the maidens had taken their position, a "warrior" arrived. He appeared to be more of an Inca or Mayan warrior and unfortunately he was very overweight. He skipped danced around the maidens three times. On one of the passes in front of us, a man called out to him in Lao "You are too fat. You eat too much pig!"- talk about a tough crowd! Undeterred the boy trooped on. He came before the District Leader, a man with respect and deference that I am sure that President Obama wished that he had,an received a lit torch. The warrior chief then danced to bring a torch to each of the 4 maidens located at the cardinal compass points of the pyre. Once all the torches were delivered the wood pyre was ignited with the torches. As the pyre leaped into flames, fireworks were shot into sky. A total of 7 fireworks were shot into the sky exploding into colorful bursts with powerful booms. While the fireworks were shooting into the sky, some of the maidens had long tubes that were shooting roman candles over the fire.

The students, assembled around the field, watched in amazement and excitement along with their parents as well as younger siblings. This was a family as well as community event. Everyone was in good spirits - some adults in more "spirits" than others.


One of the leaders moved his chair and ended up inadvertently placing it upon my empty glass. I spoke to him in Thai to wait a minute and removed the glass from underneath his chair. The next thing that I knew was that he wanted me to sit in the stuffed chair next to his. I sat down, and a woman brought me a glass of beer - Yes rank has it's privileges. But there is no such thing as a free lunch or glass of beer. Some young girls came out and danced around the fire bearing offerings for the dignitaries. One girl presented a trophy that would be awarded to the school that was judged to have had the best spirit. Another girl presented a watermelon that had some bamboo sticks with papers stuck on them. Other girls had fresh leis made out of banana blossoms. The dignitaries placed the floral arrangements around their necks. I was given two of the leis to wear. But as Duang so often tells me "This is Thailand, not same as America" - I could not fit the leis over my large head! After consultation with Duang and the dignitaries, it was determined that I should wear one lei on my head like a crown and one wrapped around my left wrist.


I mentioned that there is no such thing as a free lunch or glass of beer. After receiving the leis, the dignitaries and I had to dance with the girls around the fire. Fortunately I am familiar and comfortable with dancing Lao style. The crowd was also kinder to me than the previous warrior chief. It was great fun and upon returning to our seats, the District Leader poured and sent me a shot of whiskey. Rank has it's privileges - especially in Isaan. I was offered more liquor but since I was driving I did not accept the kind invitations.

There was a full night of entertainment and activities. The children enthusiastically participated in round singing, cheering competitions, and exercises. Each school presented a skit. As best as I can determine the skits were reinforcing social behaviors such as not smoking, patriotism, not let your dogs attack people's ducks, etc. Two of the schools had their girls perform Go-Go or MTV video type dance routines. It appears the the Isaan pipeline of dancers to Bangkok and Pattaya will be kept functioning well in the future. Prior to and after presenting their skit, the groups lined up in front of the dignitaries and gave them a three fingered salute which was returned by the District Leader. It appeared to me that the entire event is designed to reinforce and encourage community values as well as expectations with the students.

Tahsang Village school was the most comical to watch last night. They were "naughty boys". A couple of the younger brothers who do not attend school, sat with their older siblings. They were not bashful at all - dancing any and every time there was a beat in the air. Many times their dancing disintegrated into "kick boxing". It was very entertaining especially knowing that they were not your children or going home with you.

The program ended around 11:30 PM with the students going to their tents to sleep. Some teachers and two security guards remained to watch over the children. Naturally the dogs remained trying to do what they had been trying to do all night long. No seemed to mind.

We were invited to stay longer while a pig was roasted over the fire that had been used in the festivities. The Tahsang Village Headman set up his computer with a small amplifier for karaoke. A couple of the teachers sang Isaan songs. They were excellent singers and pleasant to listen to.

It was getting late so after eating some fresh grilled pig intestines, we left for the one hour drive back to Udonthani.

I am not certain what it was all about. I am not sure that I understood what was going on. I know that we had enjoyed another unique Isaan experience.

It's Entertainment

Yesterday we were off to Tahsang Village on family business after completing our grocery shopping. We got there at a good time - the lighting was good and the children were coming home from school.

It was nice to see some of our local friends excitingly headed back to their homes from their day in the class room. The younger school girls wear red school uniforms and the older school girls wear blue uniforms. The boys wear either brown or blue uniforms. The blue uniform is the most prevalent including university students. On certain days of the week the students wear military type uniforms - boy scouts, girl scouts, sea scouts type organization. But that may all be a topic for a future blog not today's which is about "Entertainment"

I stopped the truck to photograph some of the houses in the village to use in a future blog and to add to my photography portfolio. At one of the houses there were some young children who do not go to school. They were curious about the foreigner taking pictures. So curious that they quickly overcame any reservations or shyness that they had.

They had a couple puppies that they had been playing with and were eager to show them off to me so that I could photograph all of them. The little boy and his two sisters posed for several pictures with their puppies. They enjoyed seeing their pictures on the camera's screen. It was entertaining for me to be able to share with them something that they had never seen before. Cameras and photography are luxuries well beyond their family's or village's means.










Children in Isaan do not have the sophisticated toys or quality toys that clutter the homes and yards in the USA. They pretty much make do with what is available to them. This often involves plastic containers, old bicycles, sticks, pieces of cloth or string, and often dogs. The children use their imaginations to entertain themselves and seem no worse for wear. They are always active, happy and apparently never bored.

We stopped by to see Kwan, Duang's cousin's 14 month baby but she was not home. Fortunately Tahsang Village is very small and we found Kwan with little difficulty. She was sitting in on a small but hot card game in some one's backyard. The temperature was in the high 90's and six adults along with Kwan and Fern were sitting in a circle on sahts. Gambling is not allowed in Thailand other than the daily national lottery. I did not see any paper so I guess the coins that I saw on the ground were being used to keep track of the "points". Gambling is illegal in Thailand. But then again not everything is always what it appears to be in Thailand. But it was certain that everyone was having a good time on a hot and sunny afternoon in Isaan.




















As we got into car I saw some of the school children, that we had seen earlier, either playing or working a little further down the street. We drove down and stopped to photograph them. They were hard at it - either playing or working on a large pile of sand. Three little girls, two plastic buckets, a shovel, and a hoe in the golden glow of the late afternoon of a hot Isaan afternoon - that's entertainment for me. The adults watching over the scene got into the spirit of the moment. They liked seeing the results of the photography efforts. They also posed for their pictures. In no time at all we had spent 30 minutes at this rest stop along our way.

There are many photographs here with us in Thailand of my life going back to when I was a baby. There are many more back home as well as photos of my parents when they were young in the USA that we will view during our stay. Duang, on the other hand, does not have any photos older than 5 years ago. Even at that there are only 8 pictures.

I enjoy being able to give a little something back to the villagers even if it just a small print. It is something that I know that they most likely would not have had if not for sharing their time with me. I still remember the expressions of the Hill Tribe people around Maehongson when I presented them with prints of their photographs that I had taken on a previous trip to the region.

Last night we went out to dinner and take in one of the newest movies - "Valkyrie". We enjoyed our night out a great deal. We had dinner at a small restaurant owned,and run by a German expat. The pork at the restaurant is from his local pig farm. I had my favorite Cordon Bleu - not Chicken Cordon Bleu but "Pork Cordon Bleu". I never had or even heard of "Pork Cordon Bleu" until I came to Nobi's. Duang had Thai food which was also very good - not unexpectedly since Nobi's wife is Thai.

After dinner we walked to the mall and went to the Cinaplex to see the movie. It was our first time at the Cinaplex. The theater is very big and modern. It is comparable to anything in home town USA including Los Angeles. The only difference is the price of the ticket - last night was bargain night 70 Baht ($2.00 USD) rather than the normal 90 Baht ($2.57 USD) price. The movie was a first run feature. Tom Cruise was in it but the film did not have much character development or reveal anything enlightening about the failed plot to assassinate Adolf Hitler. It was entertaining and the price was definitely right. Our entire night out cost a total of $13.52 USD.