It's Entertainment

Yesterday we were off to Tahsang Village on family business after completing our grocery shopping. We got there at a good time - the lighting was good and the children were coming home from school.

It was nice to see some of our local friends excitingly headed back to their homes from their day in the class room. The younger school girls wear red school uniforms and the older school girls wear blue uniforms. The boys wear either brown or blue uniforms. The blue uniform is the most prevalent including university students. On certain days of the week the students wear military type uniforms - boy scouts, girl scouts, sea scouts type organization. But that may all be a topic for a future blog not today's which is about "Entertainment"

I stopped the truck to photograph some of the houses in the village to use in a future blog and to add to my photography portfolio. At one of the houses there were some young children who do not go to school. They were curious about the foreigner taking pictures. So curious that they quickly overcame any reservations or shyness that they had.

They had a couple puppies that they had been playing with and were eager to show them off to me so that I could photograph all of them. The little boy and his two sisters posed for several pictures with their puppies. They enjoyed seeing their pictures on the camera's screen. It was entertaining for me to be able to share with them something that they had never seen before. Cameras and photography are luxuries well beyond their family's or village's means.










Children in Isaan do not have the sophisticated toys or quality toys that clutter the homes and yards in the USA. They pretty much make do with what is available to them. This often involves plastic containers, old bicycles, sticks, pieces of cloth or string, and often dogs. The children use their imaginations to entertain themselves and seem no worse for wear. They are always active, happy and apparently never bored.

We stopped by to see Kwan, Duang's cousin's 14 month baby but she was not home. Fortunately Tahsang Village is very small and we found Kwan with little difficulty. She was sitting in on a small but hot card game in some one's backyard. The temperature was in the high 90's and six adults along with Kwan and Fern were sitting in a circle on sahts. Gambling is not allowed in Thailand other than the daily national lottery. I did not see any paper so I guess the coins that I saw on the ground were being used to keep track of the "points". Gambling is illegal in Thailand. But then again not everything is always what it appears to be in Thailand. But it was certain that everyone was having a good time on a hot and sunny afternoon in Isaan.




















As we got into car I saw some of the school children, that we had seen earlier, either playing or working a little further down the street. We drove down and stopped to photograph them. They were hard at it - either playing or working on a large pile of sand. Three little girls, two plastic buckets, a shovel, and a hoe in the golden glow of the late afternoon of a hot Isaan afternoon - that's entertainment for me. The adults watching over the scene got into the spirit of the moment. They liked seeing the results of the photography efforts. They also posed for their pictures. In no time at all we had spent 30 minutes at this rest stop along our way.

There are many photographs here with us in Thailand of my life going back to when I was a baby. There are many more back home as well as photos of my parents when they were young in the USA that we will view during our stay. Duang, on the other hand, does not have any photos older than 5 years ago. Even at that there are only 8 pictures.

I enjoy being able to give a little something back to the villagers even if it just a small print. It is something that I know that they most likely would not have had if not for sharing their time with me. I still remember the expressions of the Hill Tribe people around Maehongson when I presented them with prints of their photographs that I had taken on a previous trip to the region.

Last night we went out to dinner and take in one of the newest movies - "Valkyrie". We enjoyed our night out a great deal. We had dinner at a small restaurant owned,and run by a German expat. The pork at the restaurant is from his local pig farm. I had my favorite Cordon Bleu - not Chicken Cordon Bleu but "Pork Cordon Bleu". I never had or even heard of "Pork Cordon Bleu" until I came to Nobi's. Duang had Thai food which was also very good - not unexpectedly since Nobi's wife is Thai.

After dinner we walked to the mall and went to the Cinaplex to see the movie. It was our first time at the Cinaplex. The theater is very big and modern. It is comparable to anything in home town USA including Los Angeles. The only difference is the price of the ticket - last night was bargain night 70 Baht ($2.00 USD) rather than the normal 90 Baht ($2.57 USD) price. The movie was a first run feature. Tom Cruise was in it but the film did not have much character development or reveal anything enlightening about the failed plot to assassinate Adolf Hitler. It was entertaining and the price was definitely right. Our entire night out cost a total of $13.52 USD.

Khantoke Dinner

I have been busy the past few days with myriad activities. My biggest investment of time has been creating another gallery, "Runny Noses and Dirty Faces", on my photography website http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/gallery/7422101_oLip3/1/478397481_nSuvY

This gallery are some previously unposted photographs of children from SE Asia and the USA.

Last week we spent half of a day applying for a new passport in Duang's new name. Fortunately, Thailand now has a passport office here in Udonthani so we avoided the necessity to travel to Koen Kaen or worse yet - Bangkok. The process was very straight forward - show up with old passport, national ID card, blue house book, marriage certificate, MY US Passport (?), and 1,050 Baht ($30 USD). No need for photographs, digital photos are taken at the office as part of the application process. They told us that her new passport would be mailed to our home and that we would have it in 7 days. They were correct, we did have it on the following Tuesday in fact we had it on the previous Saturday. Saturday afternoon, a man on a motorbike pulled up to our gate and rang the bell. He was a courier delivering Duang's passport - 4 days after she had applied for it.

Yesterday we went out to the villages - to take Duang's father to the hospital for dental work and to visit her two week old grandson. On the way out of Udonthani towards Kumphawapi, we came upon an accident scene - 4 cars, a pickup truck laden with propane cooking gas cylinders and a motor bike. The cars had banged up quarter panels. The bike was lying on its side in a large pool of blood. Duang remarked that she thought the motor bike driver had been killed. Looking quickly as we passed, it appeared to me that the motor bike had pulled over into the far right lane to make a U turn or a right turn. The road is divided but there are some locations where there is lane that you can pull over into to make a cross or U turn. Unfortunately many Thai drivers, especially the ones who drive fast and aggressively also use the same lane to go straight. The motor bike was apparently struck by one of these people who did not see him or could not stop in time. We found out later that the motor bike driver had been killed.

Two weeks earlier a falang on a motor bike had been killed. Some people claimed that the motor bike had been deliberately struck by a sugar cane truck. The police caught the truck driver and he denied that he DELIBERATELY STRUCK the bike, "HE WAS ONLY CUTTING HIM OFF".

Since we have lived here in Udon the past 9 months we have come upon 3 fatal motor bike accidents. Not all of the accidents have been the fault of the other participant in the accident. I have been stopped at an intersection in the right hand lane giving a signal to make a right hand turn only to have a motorbike come up on my right side and make a left turn in front of me as I started making my turn. Luckily, I am aware of Thai driving practices and do not drive aggressively - I drive much more defensively around here than back in the USA and anticipate the unexpected as well as the stupid. Not every one does. There will be blood - I am certain.

On to more pleasant things - Khantoke Dinner.

Northern Thailand in the area around Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai used to be the Kingdom of Lanna. In English it is translated as the "Land of Million Rice Fields". In the Lanna kingdom people were given enough land to raise 60 kilos of rice. Princes were awarded 1000 rice fields. The Kingdom of Lanna was not incorporated into the Kingdom of Thailand until the late 1800's. The Northern Thailand regions has a distinct culture from the central and coastal regions of Thailand.

An entertaining introduction into some of the Lanna culture is to attend a Khantoke Dinner and Show. These productions are a modern interpretation of the hospitality and culture given to important guests during the days of the Lanna Kingdom.

Duang and I attended a Khantoke Dinner and Show during our last visit to Chiang Mai. It was a great experience as well as wonderful food.

We started dining around 7:00 PM. We entered the combination restaurant/theater and were graciously seated at a 3 foot diameter black lacquered circular table. At the front of the room there was a stage area. The tables like ours lined the rectangular perimeter of another performing area at the elevation that we were seated at. We sat on the "floor" but unlike the traditional Thai custom of sitting cross legged on the floor, our floor was raised so that we were able to sit in a customary Western seated position at our table.

Hostesses dressed in traditional clothing brought bowls of typical Northern Thai food to our table on circular woven bamboo trays called "toke". The hostesses wear colorful ankle length skirts called "Bhasin" that have intricate designed patterns with a close fitted long sleeve blouse called a "Suakhan Krabok" along with a shawl or sash called a "Sabai Chiang" over the blouse. In their hair the hostesses wore orchids. It was very elegant, and beautiful.

The night that we were there we had: Chiang Mai Style Banana Fritters, Clear Vegetable Soup, Chiang Mai Styled Pork Curry with Ginger and Tamarind, Deep Fried Chicken, Grilled Young Chili Paste with Steamed Vegetables, Minced Pork with Tomato Sauce, Crispy Pork Skin, Stir Fried Vegetables, Crispy Rice Noodles, Sticky Rice or if you preferred Steamed Rice, Fresh fruit, and tea. The food was very tasty and the portions were huge. It was delicious and very enjoyable.

At 7:45 PM the show started. The dancers entered the building from outside and walked between the row of tables up to the stage area. As the performers entered the room, they were performing a "Candle Dance" as a combination of worship and to greet guests in the Lanna tradition. It was very beautiful as well as elegant.

On the elevated stage the men performed a "War Dance". The war dance included some very acrobatic beating of various types of drums. In the old days these dances and drum beating motivated the Lanna troops into battle. The history of Northern Thailand is littered with battles, wars, and rebellions so there must have been a great deal of drumming in the old days.

The remainder of the show was performed at the level where we were seated. Photography as well as video was not a problem. The performers were very photogenic and reacted well to being photographed and filmed.


After the war dance, the women performed a "Tee Dance". "Tee" in Thai means "umbrella". The umbrella is often used by women in Northern Thailand and it is a symbol for Lanna women.

Following the tee or umbrella dance, a man and a woman danced an episode from the "Ramakian" The Ramakian is Thailand's greatest ancient literary work that is heavily influenced by India's "Ramayana". The man is "Hanuman - The Monkey Warrior General" He was on his way to attack a city when a female perhaps a goddess interfered and blocked his way with stones. He is upset and chases her to kill her. The female dancer represents the woman who interfered and caused Hanuman's wrath. When Hanuman catches up and meets her he changes his mind. Yes there is no telling what a good looking skillful female dancer can do to a man's heart. The dance performed is about that long ago event.

After the episode from the Ramakian the women put on traditional Hill Tribe clothing and performed a traditionally inspired "New Years Dance". It was followed by a young man doing a "Sword Dance"

The sword dance was followed by a dance called "Sueng Ka pho". The "Sueng Ka pho" is a dance that I have also seen performed in Cambodia and Isaan. It is a country dance more typical of farmers than professionals. It has the rhythm and beat of the rice paddies. It utilizes everyday items such as coconut shells and pottery to make the music or serve as props in the performance.

The last dance which included audience participation was "Rumwong" - a cheerful simple dance started in the early 1900's.

The conclusion of the show was setting off of fireworks and lighted lanterns into the night time sky. The show ended around midnight - too soon as far as we were concerned.

Writing about that special night gives me itchy feet. My feet are itchy from the mosquitoes that seem to love me but the itchiness is also to travel once again to the "Land of a Million Rice Fields".

Additional photographs from the Kingdom of Lanna can be viewed at:

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/gallery/7122834_w8iKa/1/456786498_pCnX3

http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/gallery/7114224_bmq5E/1/456181140_E8v6r

Yes, We Can; Yes He Can; Yes They Do

During the recent US presidential election, the Democratic Party's slogan was "Yes we can!" I watched and heard with interest a CNN International report on television this morning where during President Obama's visit to Canada some spectator's were shouting "Yes he can!" I don't know if this was the case of Canadians misunderstanding the original campaign slogan or the case of some people expressing their confidence in him and their lack of confidence in the remainder of Americans.

In my MySpace website, www.myspace.com/aahale, I was asked to list who were my heroes. I responded without listing any "heroes". There are people that I admire. There are people that I respect. What is a hero? To make or declare someone a hero is to give them a free pass. People should not be given free passes. Each and every day we need to prove ourselves and to be judged on what we did or did not do that day.

In my opinion there is a danger in anointing someone as a hero. Many times it sets up unrealistic expectations for future behavior or accomplishments. Lest that I be accused of being anti-Obama, I will admit that I do hope that he does succeed in resolving many of the issues confronting the United states today however I have more confidence in the American people to solve the problems.

Idol worship is not limited to American politics. Yesterday as I was being driven around the Isaan countryside, the radio was tuned to a talk radio station. The station was informing people about a rally to be held in Bangkok later this month in support of deposed Prime Minister Thaksin. The radio commentator as well as his call in listeners were all very passionate regarding Thaksin. It was obvious that in the mind of the radio participants all problems would be solved and everything would be better if he was back in power. It sounded familiar to the line of thinking in other political arenas. I was thinking that these political zealots needed a theme song when the commentary stopped and some music started. The music was distinctively Isaan. Not too long into the lyrics I started hearing "Thaksin", "Thaksin" over and over. They apparently already have their theme song.


We made our way to Tahsang Village. I walked around with my brother-in-law, we came upon a villager sitting astride his hammock weaving a fish net. I don't know how long he had been there underneath the shade of the large trees supporting his hammock. He had already created a fine fish net about 20 feet in diameter. The center of the net was tied to a branch above where he was sitting. The edge of the net was at the level where he was sitting and he was essentially using crocheting techniques to add length to the net. The net was made from very fine nylon filament from bobbin on the ground and some kind of a shuttle in his hand. He used a crochet needle in conjunction with the shuttle to produce row after row of 1 inch mesh net.

The villager took some time to show me slowly on how the nylon thread is looped and placed on a piece of flat bamboo and with some twists as well as turns using the needle to create more net. After all his patient efforts to instruct me I am still not sure exactly how it is done but I am convinced that he was very skillful at creating nets. He had a rhythm to his work that in addition to passing the long hot afternoon quickly expanded his new net. From his position at the corner of his property at the intersection of two village roads he was able to converse with passerby while continuing his repetitive and monotonous task. In Tahsang Village as well as the other villages in rural Isaan walking down a village road is not a single minded focused task. People who are not out working in the fields are sitting outside on their raised platforms tending to small children, eating, drinking, or just relaxing.

As you pass the villagers along you way, you are expected to stop and chat. Gossip and curiosity are major pastimes on a hot and sunny day. Short walks take much longer to complete due to the many stops along the way.

Watching the man creating his own fishing net got me to thinking about the self reliance of the Lao Loum people. Tahsang is a typical Isaan village - one of hundreds dotting the countryside. I am familiar with the activities of the village due to it being Duang's village and most of the villagers being her relatives. It gives me an opportunity to more fully understand as well as witness Isaan culture.

The villagers of Tahsang as well as the other Isaan villages are very self reliant. They raise their own rice. People who do not own the actual land provide labor and thus share in the fruits of the harvest. Man and women go to the many bodies of water around the countryside to fish and collect snails for food.

The flooded low land areas are harvested to provide reeds to create sahts. The reeds are cut, and dried in the sun along side the roads outside of the villager's houses. After drying out in the sun, the reeds are hung from the exposed elevated house floor beams to air dry. The reeds are dyed bright colors in barrels heated over open fires in the backyards. The colored reeds are hung out to dry. Women then weave the reeds into sahts on hand made looms outside of their houses.

In addition to rice the farmers grow peanuts, cassava, sugar cane, corn, and vegetables. The fields where the crops are grown also provide other food items such as crickets, ants, ant eggs, grasshoppers, rats and crabs. Very small birds that feed upon the rice crop are trapped and eaten. Foods that are not familiar to most westerners but enjoyed and cherished by the Lao Loum people. Coconut and banana trees are very abundant.

Many of the trees growing in and around the villages provide fruits, leaves, and flowers that provide food for the people. Many of the plants that grow in the mud puddles, drainage ditches, flooded plains and roadsides are eaten.

Water is collected off of their roofs into large ceramic or concrete vessels for household use.

Just about everyone has a few chickens that provide eggs and meat for the table. Some people also raise pigs, cattle or water buffalo. There are also some people who raise ducks for eggs and meat.

Village women weave cotton in their homes for their use or to earn some money for the family. Other women have industrial style sewing machines in their homes for assembling clothes provided vendors.

The Lao Loum people pretty much fend for themselves. Whereas we may not think that have much in terms of physical wealth, they are pretty much masters of their own fate. They are able to provide for themselves. What they have is their own. This subsistence economy provides them with independence and provides them with some protection from the vagaries of the world economy.

Their Buddhist and animist beliefs provide a moral compass and binds their culture to their shared past as well as providing reassurances for their future.

The life is not easy. They survive and are happy.

Yes we can.

Yes he can. Maybe.

Yes, they do.

Wot Sothon Dancers

Dance comprises a large part of Thai as well as Lao culture. Dance runs the gamut from 60s and 70s style Go Go dancing in the tourist venues to classical Thai dances performed on Buddhist temple grounds or part of stage productions.


Little Kwan from Tahsang Village, who is a year old now. is into "dancing". Although she can not walk yet she has been dancing for about a month. It does not take much a rhythm or beat to set her off. Hand and arm movements are essential components of Thai dance so Kwan's inability to walk is not a liability. She does try some dance movements with her legs - standing unsupported on her own and flexing a few times from her knees prior to landing on her bottom. Sitting on her bottom watching the older people dance does not prevent here from imitating their leg movements as best she can while seated. She does all this with a large four toothed grin from ear to ear. She seems to enjoy it as much as everyone who watches her.

Even in somewhat isolated villages such as Tahsang, there are numerous opportunities for dancing. In addition to someone always playing mahlam lao music loudly on their radio, there are many celebrations or festivals with live bands. The festivals and celebrations are truly family affairs with four generations attending as well as actively participating together.


In Kwan's case her care givers have some sort of Isaan rap routine that chant which sets her off to dancing. Not that Kwan needs too much structure to start her dance routines. I have seen her dance to the sound of a rough idling motorbike.

Weddings, Monk Ordinations, and many Buddhist Holidays are occasions for street processions. The villagers and friends after drinking beer and Lao moonshine will parade through the village in front of a large stake body truck laden with huge speakers, and sound system. While the truck blasts out the driving beats of marhlam Lao, the participants continue their drinking all the while dancing. It is a very merry affair.

It is a little strange to witness this merry band of "good natured" dancers in such "great spirit" to march through the gate and enter on to the temple grounds. Odd at first but after seeing it so many times and also attending stage shows complete with people getting drunk on temple grounds, you learn to accept it as a part of the fabric of Isaan life.

Last week, I wrote about the Lakhon chatri dancers at Erawan Shrine. The Erawan Shrine is not the only place to see Lakhon chatri dancers. Dance groups perform at many different Wats on special occasions and regularly at others. My favorite Wat to observe Lakhon chatri dancers is at Wat Sothon Wararam Warahan, commonly referred to as Wat Sothon.

Wat Sothon is located 100 KM east of Bangkok on the bank of the Bang Pakong River in the city of Chachoengsao. The region is heavily agricultural with many rice paddies and mango groves. I first visited it when I was living in Pattaya. Duang had arranged for my company driver to take us there one weekend morning.

Wat Sothon contains a very sacred statue of Buddha called "Luang Pho Sothon". The temple is the most heavily visited Wat in the Bangkok area. Many Thai people visit the Wat to worship. In thanksgiving for favors granted, pilgrims make offerings of boiled eggs, cooked pig's head, or commission performances by the resident Lakhon Chatri dancers.

The area where the dancers perform as well as the adjoining room where the statue is located is very crowded and filled with smoke from burning joss stick offerings. There is no air conditioning. Ventilation is provided by some large fans. Some how the sweltering heat seems only to underline the experience of this special place.

In addition to the dancing, the resident troupe also chants. Photography and video taping the performances is not an issue. The dancers are very photogenic. Outside of the area where they perform you can sit and watch them eat, drink, and relax prior to performing. Some of the performers have their children with them. It is apparent that the next generation of Wat Sothon dancers are being prepared.

You can also board a boat tour of the Bang Pakang River. The boat takes you down river to an old market built upon wood piles along side of the river. The old market has many food vendors and some old shops. The boat returns you to Wat Sothon.

The boat tour is predominately Thai families. Our tour was no different. It was especially entertaining to one little girl - a "naughty girl". I took some photos of her and she vacillated between shyness and curiosity. after awhile she evolved to the point of being precocious - a "naughty girl" and rolled her tongue as she stuck it out.

Although the dancers at Wat Sothon may not be high lighted or even mentioned in many guide books, a day trip to Chachoengsao is highly recommended.

Still At It - Sugar Cane and Corn on the Cob

This is the 100th post of http://www.hale-worldphotography.blogspot.com/. Time has gone by so quickly. Creating and maintaining this blog along with my photography website at http://www.hale-worldphotography.com/ has kept me occupied and have given me the opportunity to learn new things related to Internet technology. To call them skills at this time would be giving myself undserved credit. I do hope at some point in the future to be justified in claiming them to be skills.


The weather has definitely changed here in Isaan. The high for today was 34 C (93 F). The forecast high for Tuesday is 36 C or 97 F - "hot" in either system.


Today we went out to Tahsang Village to take Duang's father to Kumphawapi Hospital for dental work. Rather than wait at the hospital I went off to the local Post Office to mail a letter back to the USA. It was a very busy day at the Post Office and in the small villages of Isaan.


Today the government was giving out 500 Baht ($14.28 USD) to elderly people. In Tahsang village, three government officials dressed in uniforms that resembled U S Navy aviator uniforms complete with gold wings and campaign ribbons had set up tables in the "community center" across from Duang's parent's house. "Community center" is a bit of an exaggeration. It is an open air pavilion with a concrete floor. Along three sides there is a concrete block wall about three foot high. This place is used for community affairs such as voting, and distribution of monthly allowances.


In more populated areas like Kumphawapi, the monthly allowance is distributed at the Post Office. By the numbers that you pick up when you enter the Post Office, there were 36 people ahead of me with only one clerk working. After a while the clerk made some kind of announcement and a bunch of people each holding an envelope or box to be mailed walked up to the counter - followed closely by me. The elderly would have to wait for the paying customers to complete their business.


I got back to the hospital just as Duang and her father had completed their business. We returned to Tahsang Village for a short visit and then on to visit Duang's daughter, well actually her brand new grandson, on our way back to Udonthani.

As we approached the Sugar refinery in Kumphawapi, we came upon a group of workers harvesting a field of sugar cane. I pulled over and got out to photograph the activity. The sugar cane harvest is still going on here in Isaan and will continue for about 6 more weeks. It is a very labor intensive process. The night before the harvest, the field is burned. The intent of the burn is to reduce the amount of dry leaves attached to canes and to open the field a little better for access to the stalks. The fire is hot and fast and does not burn the cane up. The sound of the fire racing through the tinder dry cane can be heard from far away. The leaping flames light up the night sky. Despite the absence of any fire fighting equipment or personnel, the fires do not get out of control and the fire remains contained to the designated field.


The next morning the workers arrive carrying their heavy machete type knives along with their jugs of water along with plastic bags of food. They are covered head to toe in typical Isaan farming clothing to protect their skin from the glaring sun and dust of the Isaan fields.


There are actually two types of sugar cane that is grown here. One type is very tall and develops a flowery head sort of like pampas grass. The other type of sugar cane is shorter and does not come to a head. Both types of cane when mature dwarf the farmers. Today the farmers were cutting the flowery head type of cane. Their clothes soon were spotted with dandelion type seeds from the cane flowers.

The harvesting of the burned off fields is done by hand. The farmers set off and cut the cane one stalk at a time. Due to the previous night's burn, the stalks are scorched and sooty. The ground is also covered with patches of soot. In no time at all, the workers as well as an occasional photographer get covered soot. Some of the harvesters short circuit the process and wear all black - either to not show how much work they are actually doing or to just look cleaner.


The farmers wear a glove or two gloves to protect their hands from the rough stalks. With one hand they grasp a single stalk and hold it. They then bend over and with their other hand chop off the stalk about 6 inches above the ground with a single powerful slash from the heavy machete type knife. The severed stalk is then lifted high into the air as the harvester trims off any leaves that remain on the cane from the burn off. The leave debris falls to the rutted dry ground and soon the field is a quasi minefield covered with ruts, dry leaves, ashes, and weeds. It requires a great deal of attention to not trip, fall, or worse yet avoid twisting an ankle.


The trimmed canes, about 8 feet long are cast to the side to create a row of just canes. Some of the workers go along and bundle the trimmed canes into 20 piece bundles that are tied together with cane leaves. Tonight the bundles each containing 20 stalks will be loaded on to a transport truck either by a mechanical loader or by hand using a 12 person crew.

As I have found throughout SE Asia the people did not mind being photographed either as they worked or took their rest breaks. They were somewhat amused about the foreigner scrambling around the debris and soot filled field taking their picture. I share the results with them and always thank them for allowing me to photograph them.


Just before the turn off to Duang's daughter's village, there are several stands selling local products - usually produce. Even though it is the middle of February and the first corn harvest was at the end of September, we are still able to buy corn on the cob. In general corn on the cob is sold cooked in Isaan. Wood fires boil water in large metal tubs filled with fresh unhusked corn. A bag of 8 small ears costs 20 Baht ($0.29 USD). The corn is eaten right off of the cob without the addition of butter or salt. In Pattaya we were able to buy fresh corn but it was much more sophisticated - the vendor cut the kernels off the cob into a plastic bag, added sugar, shredded coconut, and a plastic spoon.

We bought three bags and brought them to share with Duang's daughter's in-laws. They have been very generous in sharing with us the fruits of their garden and fields. They are Lao Loum people and eat the same foods that Duang is fond of. They have given us a large bag of rice from their field and many vegetables out of their garden. Whenever we visit them we always try to bring something to share with them. I am especially fond of the baby's great grandfather and great grandmother.

After our visit we drove back to our home to begin editing today's photos and to write this blog.

Bangkok Erawan Shrine

In the mid 1950s a new luxury hotel was being constructed in downtown Bangkok.


As part of site preparation for the Erawan Hotel some trees were cut down. Animists believe that spirits inhabit certain trees. Throughout Thailand you will see large trees wrapped in bands of brightly colored clothes. In addition there are often long decorated wood poles leaning against the tree trunks as part of offerings to the spirits. These beliefs have nothing to do with Buddhism but have their roots in Hindu and Animist faiths that predate Buddhism.


Supposedly the start of the construction of the hotel's foundations also was not on a "good" date. Prior to the start of important activities, Monks are often consulted to determine the best date and time to start the endeavor.


Construction of the hotel was bedevilled by many problems. Cost overruns, the loss of marble at sea, accidents, injuries to workers and most seriously the deaths of some construction workers affected the project. These problems also affected the people's attitudes and perceptions of the project.


After consultation with a Hindu religious authority a shrine to the Hindu god of creation, Bramaha on top of his elephant, Erawan, was constructed and then dedicated at the "correct" date and time.


The site of the hotel is now the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel. After the shrine was built in 1956 at the corner of the property the problems disappeared.


Legend has it that a Thai woman went to the shrine and prayed for success of her business. In return for a successful business she promised to return and dance in celebration as well as homage. Her business succeeded and she kept her promise.


Today there is a resident troupe of Lakhon chatri dancers who for a donation will dance and sing for patrons. People pay them to offer thanksgiving for granted favors or to request favors. A small group of musicians play traditional music for the classical Thai dancers. The dancers while performing hold small pieces of paper with the patron's name and reason for the performance written.

With this being Thailand, everything is not always what they appear to be. The Lakhon chatri dancers are essentially female. However not every dancer is a woman. Some of the dancers are Kathoeys - "Lady Boys". This is not a problem and is accepted without question by the Thai people.





On the sidewalks outside of the shrine stalls sell flowers, garlands, soft drinks, incense sticks, yellow candles, and other religious paraphernalia for the waiting worshippers. The tiny area of the shrine is filled with clouds of pungent smoke from burning joss sticks.

The shrine is heavily draped with garlands of flowers around the necks of the elephants. Some devotees make offerings of some small elephant figurines









There a a few concrete benches along the perimeter of the shrine and are convenient locations to watch the religious observations and to take in the aura of the devotees. Many Thai people passing the shrine either walking, riding on a motorbike, riding on the over head train, or in a motor vehicle will perform a wai in respect. Throughout Thailand, respect in the form of wais, floral offerings, joss sticks, and candles are made to shrines and statues of historical figures.




The Erawan Shrine is a Bangkok tourist attraction and worth the small effort required to visit it.

Carnaval - Oh to be back in Rio!

We just got back from a four hour expedition, second time around, to change the last name on Duang's insurance policy. Sometimes things just take longer than you expect or should take. I guess part of the problem is that there is only one computer terminal for the 5 people administering the policies in the upstairs office. Once you have done your or their thing upstairs, you have to go downstairs and wait to deal with an entirely different group. I waited outside because there were so many people. But in the end our mission was accomplished.

The weather here is getting warmer and the humidity is increasing. In the afternoon the conditions are building up towards the daily thunderstorms that we typically have in April to September. With the time I had waiting at the insurance office, and the changing weather conditions, my thoughts returned to my first stay in Brasil - the time I attended Carnaval in Rio.

This year Carnaval is February 16 to the 23. Sunday and Monday nights are the big Samba Parades at the Sambodromo. The Samba Parades are a combination of the Rose Bowl parade and Super Bowl festivities rolled up into one with the addition of the Brasilian joie de vie. Sorry I meant to write "alegria da vida" - Brasilians speak Portugues not French.

My friend and I flew to Rio de Janeiro to attend Carnaval. We discussed what we wanted to do while in Rio and he had his friend, a travel agent, make the arrangements.

Our celebration of Carnaval actually got started Thursday night in Curitiba where we were living and working. We went to our favorite place for drinks, dancing, and karaoke. With this being Brasil, the party didn't really get started until 10:00 PM. But there is no problem - the party does not end until 7:00 in the morning! Many was the night that we partied until 6:00 AM, stopped at a sidewalk cafe for breakfast, and then returned home. However because we had a 9:00 AM flight to Rio on Friday, we left our favorite or rather infamous haunt at 4:00 AM.

We stayed at a beach front suite at the Le Meridien Copacabana, now the Iberostar Copacabana. It was great - first class accommodations. But with a slight problem - there was only a king sized bed in the suite. Unlike a vast majority of the other men traveling together in Rio for Carnaval, we were not going to be sleeping together - no matter how big the bed was! No problem, we decided to take turns as to which one of us slept in the bed while the other one slept on the floor. The first night - I had the bed.

We took a taxi from the airport to Copacabana Beach where the hotel was located. From the cab driver we got our first bit of excitement regarding the festival. He filled us in on the latest gossip and rumors involving the upcoming samba competition.

We spent the remainder of the day on an arranged tour of the city hitting all the highlights of Rio. It was our first time in the city and even though the weather wasn't great, it was very entertaining. My friend and I are both into photography. We took the cog train up to and down from Corcovado & Christo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer). To ensure maximum photographic coverage for this unknown journey we agreed to split up and sit at window seats on opposite sides of the car. The cog train had wide wooden benches that sat three people across with two benches facing each other in a series along each side of the car. Our tour group as well as the other passengers on the cog train were predominately gay. There was a hetrosexual young couple in our group that stood out. They stood out for reasons more obvious than that they were a mixed couple.

They were a young couple in their early twenties most likely not married from New York City or New Jersey. The man was very attentive and falling all over himself in attempts to appease, please, humor, and satisfy his girl friend. She seemed be overwhelmed, afraid and upset regarding just about all aspects of the trip. She was what we refer to as a "High Maintenance Model". My friend and I took an instant aversion to the couple and took our chances socializing with the "other" members of our tour group. Some of the "other" members were very open and amusing to the point of being very entertaining. One person in particular was also pyrotechnic - he was flaming!

Anyhow on the way down the mountain this person and his "mates" (not in the Australian or New Zealand sense of the word) ended up in the seats in section where I was sitting alone. They started talking and in general being friendly. He ended up saying "Look at that b***h, can you believe anyone wanting her?" Not wanting to appear rude I said "I can't believe that she is worth the effort, the way she acts." He then adds "Yeah and her hair, the clothes she wears" As I am nodding my head in agreement, he continues with "and those muscles" Shocked I inquired if he was talking about a boy or girl. The woman that I was looking at did not have any muscles or at least any visible muscles worth mentioning. He clarified and pointed out to me in the booth in front of hers a young "beach boy" - all prim and prissy. I didn't say a thing to him from that point on. But I was laughing inside.

Leaving our afternoon adventures behind us, my friend and I continued with the evening part of our organized tour. Our afternoon compatriots, well actually only mine since they were from the USA and my friend is from New Zealand, had other plans which they had alluded to upon departing the tour bus. Something about party, we were all invited, Room 902, toys and having batteries. Too much info - Thank God, not any more details.

The evening tour consisted of dinner and drinks at a restaurant - a churrascaria. Churrascarias are Brasilian BBQ restaurants with all you can eat meats, salads, and side dishes. Great places! Tremendous values. Ice cold beers. Who could want anything more?

From the restaurant the tour went to the most popular samba nightclub - "Plataforma". Somehow and some way we ended up in the front row. We drank our caipirinhas and thoroughly enjoyed the show. We were having such a good time that we were not even embarrassed when the mulata topless dancers pulled us on the floor to dance with them. It's true and we have the souvenir photo-plates to prove it.

The first night of of the samba parade was Sunday. On that night, 6 or was it 7 of the top escholas da samba compete. The competition is held at the sambodromo a tiered concrete street structure designed for samba parades. The year that we went the first school marched starting at 7:30 PM. Each of the groups had 85 minutes to complete their parade or points would be deleted from their score. Prior to the start of each group there was a 7 minute long fireworks display to announce their start.

After the fireworks, a man, the puxador, would commence singing the song created for the group specifically for this year's competition. Points are awarded for the song as well as performance of the song. Songs are released in November. By the time of Carnaval in February or March, it seems everyone knows the words to the songs and is fully prepared to sing them at the competition.

The puxador starts out alone singing in almost a lament. He is then joined by a single stringed guitar type instrument that starts building the rhythm. They are quickly joined by other singers and stringed instruments followed by an explosion of the batteria - 200 to 400 drummers. It is absolutely awesome!

Prior to the start of the school's parade their followers had passed through the stands giving people plastic flags of their school's colors and emblem. The audience waves them like fanatics along with singing of the song. They also break out into dancing in the stands. Everyone is out for a good time and determined to enjoy themselves - all night long.

The drumming, music, and singing of the school's song continue over and over for the 85 minutes. It becomes hypnotic and maintains the frenzy for the full length of the allotted time for the parade.

Each escola da samba procession is comprised of the following elements:

Abre Alas - opening wing - the name of the school, the school's theme for this year's carnaval, a truck or float with the puxador and other singers and musicians.

Commissao de Frente - these are the senior citizens of the school. The school is honoring the contributions over the years of its senior members.

Carros Allegoricos - the huge mechanized floats that represent or interpret the theme of the school. These are on a par if not superior to the Rose Bowl parade floats in the USA. They are not possibly superior just because they have semi-nude beautiful women atop them. These floats are large, exotic, sophisticated, and complicated mechanical works of art.

Children's Wing - groups of children in extravagant costumes dancing in unison along the route.

Batteria - 200-400 drummers pounding out a frenzied samba beat. This group is lead by the Raina da Batteria (Queen of the Drummers). She is typically the schools leading lady - the most sexy and beautiful female representative of the escola. The rainha da batteria is the physical representation of the neighborhood's vitality and pride. She is honored and respected throughout the year. Some rainhas have represented their school for 15 years and they are only 32 years old! One rainha, my secret love (Luma), was married to the richest man in Brasil.

Photographs of her "sem calcinhas" (without panties) ala Mrs. Pierre Trudeau (former PM of Canada) during an interview with a newspaper reporter were published in national newspapers. She was upset and said that she would no longer give interviews. The papers said that they would no longer write about her or put her picture in the paper. Her picture and stories about here were rampant in the press. Even in Brasil it is true - any publicity is good publicity. I tried to send word back to here through some Cariocas (residents of Rio) that although I was not the richest man in Brasil or the USA, I could afford and I would buy her panties. I never heard back and have since moved on with my life.

Another wing of the parade is the celebrities. Each school strives to enhance their status by recruiting celebrities to march or dance in their parade. The year we went, super model, Naomi Campbell danced for one of the schools. She was not the best looking woman or dancer of that school - believe it or not! Trust me - I was there.

My next to favorite wing after the batteria is the mestre-sala and porta-bandeira. The mestre-sala is the dance master and he escorts the woman (porta-bandeira) carrying the school's flag. They are very elaborately dressed - sort of like out of a King's court. He looks like a footman from King Louis XIV's court (I know Louis XIV "The Sun King" is a French King and Brasil was a Portuguese colony but I don't know a comparable Portuguese King, am too lazy to look one up, and you most likely wouldn't have an image anyhow). The mestre-sala prances and bows to the crowd as he introduces and presents the porta-bandeira. She resembles a Brasilian interpretation of Marie Antoinette as she twirls and swirls around in a huge hooped skirt elegantly waving the escola flag. The crowd goes crazy over the pair. The flag and the duo represent the pride and dignity of the neighborhood. The inhabitants of the neighborhoods are poor people with limited opportunities. The carnaval is a chance for their neighborhood to earn respect and admiration from all of society.

Alas Baianas - These are women wearing elegant hoop skirts and typically turbans on their heads reminiscent of Aunt Jemima on the pancake mix box. This group honors the origins in the state of Bahia for Brasil's Carnaval. They do not samba - they spin and twirl along the route.

After a school has completed their parade, municipal workers in orange jump suits, sweep up the street to prepare for the next escola. This is Brasil. This is Carnaval. To write that they "sweep" up the litter from the street does not come anywhere near accurate to describe their performance. They dance. They gracefully sweep. They glide effortlessly. They catch debris thrown from the stands. They perform. They bow to the ovations that they get from the appreciative spectators.

The parades started at 7:30 PM, we left after the last escola completed their parade - around 8:00 AM - the next morning. After breakfast we slept to around 2:00 PM made arrangements to attend the second night of parades and did it all over again!

We vowed to return some day with our wives. We have yet to do it.

Oh to be back in Rio at Carnaval!



Maybe next year.