10 October 2008 Phuket Vegetarian Festival Day 5

Phuket Vegetarian Festival - Day 5 Sunday 05 October

Having marched in the parade, witnessed the parades marching through town, today we got up at 0400 to be ready to go to the Jui Tui Shrine for their preparations prior to their morning parade through Phuket Town.

The preparations involved the piercing of the mar song, "warriors". We arrived at the shrine at 0510 and had a treat - a beautiful 7 month old girl dressed in white trousers and tunic was toddling all around the mostly deserted shrine courtyard. She was seven months old with the attitude of a 2 year old - she was very entertaining. The little girl was absolutely darling and very photogenic. As I had noticed through the Festival, participation is a family event with all generations represented. Especially impressive were parents teaching their very young children to pay respect either bowing, kneeling, or making sign of prayer as the mar song and idols passed by.

At about 0600 more people arrived. The new arrivals were comprised of two groups - marchers and supporters of the mar song. As is the case for all events associated with the Vegetarian Festival, the action commenced after a flurry of bursting fire crackers. The mar song entered their respective temples - one for men and one for women to pay their respects and commence entering into a higher level of spiritual state. Duang and I ended up near an altar close to the entrance to the women's shrine. Soon some men showed up with latex gloves, rolls of toilet paper, alcohol, and small bottles of palm oil. After the mar song had sufficiently mentally prepared themselves, they and their handlers would go to one of the several stations scattered about the courtyard. By now the courtyard was packed with people. Many foreigners, "falang", had joined the marchers, mar song and believers. The foreigners were busy photographing the proceedings.

Due to the crush of people and just good fortune, Duang and I ended up at the backside of the altar - a mere 4 feet from where the piercings were being performed. Several times when we went to the end of the altar we had to bend or shuffle our position to avoid hitting some of the longer rods that had pierced a mar song.

Prior to piercing a mar song, the object was cleaned with alcohol and then lubricated with palm oil spread with a square of printed yellow paper. The warriors sit in a plastic chair in front of and facing the altar and the latex gloved men. Some of the mar song would point to the cheek where they wanted the piercing to commence. The warriors, male as well as female, sat quietly as they were pierced. Most sat with their eyes closed deep into their thoughts. After piercing some mar song had tears in their eyes that would be dried by their handlers with the corners of the black or yellow banners that the mar songs carry along the parade route. I assume that the warrior's tears of pain are believed to infuse the banners with mystic power. I had learned from the owner of the Pub Pub Digital Lab that people believe that the pain of the mar song takes away our bad luck and brings good luck to us.

I told him about the Medieval practice of having a "Sin Eater" A "Sin Eater" was a social outcast who lived outside of a village. This person who was rejected by society was kept alive by the villagers - the very people who spurned him. The villagers kept the "Sin Eater" alive by feeding him. By the act of eating a person's food the "Sin Eater" was believed to be removing the sins committed by the villager.

I find it fascinating the different religious practices around the world and how often the practices and rituals have things in common.

All along the parade route, believers pay homage to the mar song and to have the mar song's banner brushed over the top of their head - a much sought after blessing.

The mar song would occasionally stop and give out wrapped candy, small pieces of printed cloth, and colored strings. These objects are highly sought after by believers alongside of the parade route.

One of the female mar song stopped in front of me and gave me three pieces of wrapped candy (coconut flavored caramel). She didn't seem to be quite "all there". She said some things to me in an alien language - not Thai, not English and not Chinese in an alien voice. I have heard the voice before during the Vegetarian Festival from other mar songs. It is very high pitched and squeaky voice but not as irritating to me as Sarah Palin's voice.

During this morning's parade I had a strange moment or rather encounter with one of the mar song. I do not believe in their religious rituals or dogma but I respect their devotion. As a mar song approached, our eyes locked on to each other. I nodded my head to him as is my habit more and more lately to signify my recognition of him and as my type of common greeting. He stopped and waved his banner over my head allowing the cloth to drag along the top of my head. It was, for me, very poignant as well as powerful.

As I grow older and older, I gain a greater and greater understanding as well as appreciation of nonverbal communication. Part of this stems from an acceptance of one's intuition and ability to read body language and other signs. This acceptance and willingness to communicate has provided many exciting opportunities everywhere that I have travelled in the past twenty years. I survived a divorce from my first wife. Having survived that rejection, why would I be concerned about what total strangers may or may not think of me?

Having dropped many of myself imposed defenses and barriers, I am apparently very accessible to strangers now. This has greatly improved my life experience.

In Peru, I was taken from the market to a man's home. At his home he proudly showed me a room where he was raising "cuoy" (Guinea Pigs).

Cuoy are eaten by some highland Peruvians on special occasions such as Birthdays, Christmas, and Weddings. The great cathedral in Cusco has a replica of Da Vinci's masterpiece "The Last Supper" painted by natives in the early 1500's. On the table in front of Jesus is a platter with a cooked guinea pig on it.

Policemen have told me to cross their barriers to photograph a parade in Cusco from the middle of the street.

Algerians have told me that they knew what I did and that I was a real man - I had told the truth. From people who had nothing, I had gotten one of the most precious gifts - their respect.

I have attended the feast at the conclusion of Ramadan in the home of a hotel worker.

I have travelled in the countryside in Brasil and stayed in family homes and the attended a village "baile" (party).

I have been invited to spend the night in a Paduang refugee camp on the Thailand/Burma border.

I have been invited to spend nights in Hmong village in northern Vietnam.

I have celebrated with a religious group in Cusco, Peru, and was invited to travel with a shaman at Machu Pichu.

My only regrets have been the invitations that I have not been able to accept - yet!

In appreciation for everyone's kindness, I share my experiences with others who do not have the opportunities or mind set to explore - to push their boundaries further out.