Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Something Walks Amongst Us



On my last trip to Duang's home village, Tahsang Village, on January 2oth, I took some pictures of the younger and older villagers. As we stopped by her cousin's restaurant, I noticed and photographed a talisman hung on a pole at the entrance into the restaurant.

Many times in my life I have said or done things that at the time did not make much sense - haven't we all at some time. However, shortly after I had said or done that were seemingly illogical, events justified my actions and I as well as others have wondered how or if I knew all along.

So it seems with my decision a week ago to photograph the Tahsang Village Talisman.

I have written about the superstitions of the Lao Loum people before and of their methods for dealing with the spirit world.

Baii Sii rituals are conducted to bind the good spirits within a person's body to prevent illness and bring good luck. I attended a special Baii Sii ritual to expel an evil spirit that had taken possession of a young woman. I believe that the ritual was quite successful - at its conclusion people gave her money - her fortune had obviously improved.

Talismen are prominently displayed at the gates of people's property. The spirits, also called ghosts ("Phii" in Thai) are afraid of the stuffed talismen and will not cross their path. The Isaan villages are populated by many gate guardians.

More affluent Isaan households such as households with a falang (foreign) husband, and Thai businesses utilize spirit houses in defense and protection of the property or household. I wrote about Spirit Houses in September of last year. Offerings of food, flowers, beverages, and incense are made at the Spirit Houses to ensure protection of the property and home.

Thai people, especially Thai women, are obsessed with Thailand's answer to American soap operas. Thai television is dominated by productions that are like American soap operas except that the Thai versions run three nights a week for no more than 3 or 4 weeks. Upon conclusion of each series, a new one starts. A vast majority of the Thai series deal with two issues - gangsters and Phii. Some series deal with both at the same time.

Phii or ghosts are portrayed as zombie like people. You know that they are Phii because they have black heavy eye makeup that outlines their eyes and runs down their cheeks - more like a KISS band member than Tammy Faye Baker. Another sure tip off that someone is a Phii or ghost is that they have light coming out of their eyes. Often these lights are quite powerful and laser like. The light beams can disarm people such as young thug gangsters. The light beams can also make beautiful women pass out - a possible photon ruffinol (date rape drug). Most of the Phii are evil and cause a lot of trouble and problems.

Tonight Duang came back from Tahsang Village after tending to family business. The big news from Tahsang Village is that Phii are walking about the village at night and in the early morning. The people are all very concerned and frightened. She was advised by her relatives to get out of the village before it got too dark.

Villagers have seen lights in the sky. They are not apparently concerned about aliens, UFOs, or even alien abductions. They are convinced that the cause of these lights are Phii. It interests me how man is quick and so adept at explaining unknown events or occurrences within their cultural comfort zone.

The incidents started last night. One of her cousins, who is 23 years old, had left his house early in the morning to go to going fishing and collect snails for the family's upcoming breakfast. No need for cereal - we have snails. Because it was still dark, he was wearing a flashlight on his head. He came upon some people also walking towards the water who did not live in the village. He asked them where they were going and they didn't answer him. He repeated it a couple times and they continued to ignore him.

He walked over to where they were and shined his light on them. The mysterious people noticed that he had a light. When his light shined on them, they grimaced and had blood coming out of their eyes and mouth - JUST LIKE ON TV! Phii!

Terrified Duang's cousin raced home exhausted with his heart pounding. He told his mother of what happened and she performed a Baii Saii ritual to protect him. Her cousin saw the Phii again - this time they were walking near the school.

Since there were no fish or snails available for breakfast, he decided to go to the next village to get some "Noo" ("Rats"). Great - another Isaan delicacy that I have to watch out for - though I believe that I am more likely to eat a nicely barbecued rat than fish with ants or ant eggs. Along the way to the next village he and the three other people with him saw lights in the sugar cane field. They looked closer and there were actually bloody eyes in the sugar cane.

Villagers in both villages have been warned and are afraid. They are not going outside of their houses at night.

I offered to go out to the village tomorrow night to photograph these ghosts but Duang insists that it would not be a good idea.

There is some good news though - because these ghosts have been spotted before they could eat anyone they apparently will not be eating anyone - this time. I guess that's one of the rules. Now that they have been disclosed, the Phii will apparently be limited to playing jokes and causing problems for the local people.

The more that I write about this the more motivated I am to delve deeper into this problem. I might be able to turn it into a Wes Craven horror movie script. There was a horror movie called "Children of the Corn". What about a new film - "Creatures of the Cane"?

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