25 October 2008 South of the Border - Down Peru Way Part II

South of the Border - Down Peru Way Part II
October 25, 2008

After my night out on the town in Cusco, I boarded the early morning train on Friday 20 June 2003 to go to Machu Picchu. I wanted to be there for sunrise the next morning 21 June "Winter Solstice" at the Temple of the Sun.

Currently on Discovery Channel there is an episode where Josh Bernstein the archeologist treks through the jungle and crosses a dangerous river to get to Machu Picchu. Very dramatic. Very unnecessary- even people who hike the Inca Trail usually take the train part of the way. Josh may need to get a new travel agent or research better on the Internet how to get to places. Hopefully on his list of things that he would like for the Holidays are some guide books!! I'm only joking if it weren't for the drama of his travel, there wouldn't be much to the show.

The mountains along the way from Cusco to Machu Picchu were covered much more in snow than they were on my last trip in December. This is to be expected because Winter starts in June and Summer starts in December south of the Equator.

Upon arrival at Aguas Calientes, at the base of the mountain upon which Machu Picchu sits, there was TOO MUCH EXCITEMENT.

I was amongst a group that was giving their luggage to the Hostal Urpi representative. The rep was dealing with the Spanish speaking couple next to me. As it appeared that the agent was finished with them, the male Spanish speaking tourist started to shake like he was joking about how excited he was to be there and how the altitude was affecting him. It got worse real quick. No joking - the man was having a Grand Mal epileptic seizure. It was 9:30 AM - a hell of a way to start one's day.

His wife turned his head to the side when he collapsed on the floor. I yelled "Medico!" and told some man who was attempting to restrain the victim to let him be. If a person who is having a seizure is not endangering themselves with their flailing it is better to let them go rather than to restrain them. This victim was on a floor with nothing around him so non-intervention was appropriate. It could not have been more than two minutes later, a medical team was there with a medical kit

I verified with the Hostal representative that it was OK to leave my bag and to move on to the departure area for the bus up to Machu Picchu. The Tour Guide at the site was the same one that I had during the December visit. After we entered the complex, I left the group and went off on my own - been there, heard that, didn't need to hear it all again! He was very political and thank God I wasn't Spanish or I would have been really angry!

I toured the area until Noon when I went and had a great lunch at the restaurant "O Sancturio" just outside the entrance to the ruins. We had eaten there on the last trip. I swear they have the best Coca Cola in the world there. I don't know if it is the water, the elevation, some secret ingredient, or just the extreme thirst that you develop touring the ruins but their fountain cokes are awesome. Just like the previous visit, right after lunch I got the runs - 4 times. No problem - that is why I always carry Imodium. I decided not to push my luck and left the mountain top at around 3:15 PM.

I walked to the Hostal - far end of town in not the greatest of neighborhoods. I got my room - small but clean. What more could you want? Oh yeah - your luggage. Your luggage was supposed to be placed in your room by the Representative from the train station. I went downstairs and talked to the clerk - he knew nothing and didn't seem to want to know anything.

I figured that with all the confusion at the rail station, my bag might still be there. (Yeah - Right). Undeterred I walked back to the station - a long walk through the gauntlet of street vendors. The guard at the station would not let me in because I had not brought my ticket with me. A man who spoke Spanish came by and explained the situation to the guard. He did as well as I did - "No ticket, No entry". The nice man advised me to go back to the Hostal and return to the Railway station with the Manager. On my way back to the hotel, I got in the middle of a turf war.

A little boy and a little girl were throwing rocks at each other. The boy motioned me through the battleground and granted me safe passage. The little girl threw a rock from behind and hit me in the chin. I told the little boy to go get her good. A Tourist Policeman also took off after her.

I got back to the hotel and told the clerk that I wanted to speak with the Manager. He disappeared, returned, and said for me to wait awhile. I was not getting very happy. Another group came in and was speaking Portuguese. I explained my situation to the Tour leader in Portuguese so that he could translate into Spanish for the hotel clerk.

Right about then a woman came down the stairs from upstairs. She was obviously distressed and upset. She asked that the group clear a path to the doorway. It was the wife of the epileptic guy from the train station. I was starting to figure out and understand the situation - but I still didn't have my luggage. After awhile, four men came down with a stretcher with the unconscious epileptic guy on it with an IV attached to him. It was 4:45 PM - this had all started at 09:30AM!

One of the stretcher bearers was the hotel representative. He was apparently also the Manager. He returned and thankfully told me that my luggage was in their luggage room. Had dinner and had to use the bathroom 4 more times - time for more Imodium.

Witnessing the trauma of the Spanish man's situation was a reminder of how tentatively we hold on to the string of life. It was also a realization of how lucky we are to live our lives without having life threatening conditions hanging over our heads.