11 December 2009 - Laos Day 5

Laos Day V, Friday 05 December 08

After we enjoyed a nice breakfast of chicken rice soup cooked over an open wood fire and French bread at the hotel, we went outside at 8:45 AM to wait for our hired driver. As we exited the hotel we were greeted with two surprises - the driver was waiting for us and he had brought along his 2 year old son.

The little boy was all bundled up for the morning chill - he was wearing a thick one piece blue snowsuit. He was very cute but did seem a little out of place in his attire. Later I found out that his mother is Danish which would explain the heavy winter clothing.

The little boy stared at me with his dark penetrating eyes and gave me a Kung Fu style challenge or greeting. I returned his gesture with a few of my own and said hello in Thai to him. It was obvious that he was what Duang refers to as a "Naughty Boy" and what I call "Little Rascal" - just the kind of children that we enjoy - full of curiosity, unbridled enthusiasm, and a dash of mischievousness. I could tell that he and I had hit it off when he replied to my greetings with a big smile and a thumbs up gesture.

Our vehicle for the day was a four wheeled small truck. The back of the truck had a metal canopy over it with two narrow benches along the side - Lao version of the songtell of Thailand. Duang and I got in and sat in the back. The little boy stood up on the front seat inside the cab with his father - there were no seat belts. The little boy, named "Jone-nee", kept pointing and talking to us as we went down the road. We arrived at a sort of checkpoint on the road to a waterfall. Our driver had to stop, get out, and register. When he came back, Jone-nee had a temper tantrum because he wanted to ride with us. We agreed and he joined us. He sat on my knee or on Duang's lap as he saw fit. A few times he had me hold his hand while Duang held his other hand, he then lifted his feet off the floor and swung in the air like a little monkey. Great entertainment!

As we drove along the countryside, Jone-nee started acting as a tour guide for me. He would see cattle and point them out to me while saying "Carrabao" or point out ponds and say "Nam". He would add very expressive facial expressions to ensure that I knew and understood what he was showing me. He provided additional commentary that I didn't know what language it was in. Duang speaks Thai, Lao, and English. She didn't know what he was saying either. I suspect that like my Grandson back in America, he speaks his own language, knows exactly what he is saying, and it is everyone else who has a problem.

Whenever we stopped, his father would come to the back to lift Joe-nee out of the truck. As soon as his feet hit the ground, Jone-nee offered his hand to help Duang and me out of or into the truck. He's a real charmer.

We stopped along the side of the road across from a school. The villagers were all dresses up to celebrate New Years. There were Hmong people and some other Hill Tribe lined up in a single file on one side of the narrow road to the school. Some of them were banging long narrow drums while others were playing cymbals. We got out of the truck and the driver told us to enter the schoolyard. As it turned out we were the first people to enter. As we walked along the road to the school the villagers started clapping in unison and singing. As we passed them they welcomed us with a variation of the Thai Wai greeting and said "Sawadee" (Hello). We returned the gesture and greeting. When we got to the entrance gate two young beautiful girls greeted us with a bottle of Lao Kao (Laotian Moonshine) and two shot glasses. They poured each of us a shot and we downed them - PARTY ON!!

I donated 50,000 Kip ($6.14 USD) and signed their guest book. Jone-nee reluctantly stayed with his father at the truck. We walked on to the festival grounds.

There was a nice stage built out of bamboo at one end of the field. There were colorful flags of solid colored cloth flying around the perimeter of the stage. A large banner was erected behind the microphones and huge speakers.

To the left of the stage was a reserved shaded area underneath a canopy of an old, very old parachute. The ground underneath the canopy was covered with sahts (woven bamboo mats - just like in Isaan) Two centerpieces made out of banana leaves along with candles and pieces of cotton thread were on top of the sahts next two several ceramic jars. Other than the ceramic jars this was a familiar setting for a Baa Sii (animist ceremony to bind the good spirits in one's body to ensure health and good luck). I have had the honor to participate in such a ceremony and witnessed several of the ceremonies in Isaan. Baa Sii rituals are performed to welcome important guests, wedding ceremony, house warming, exorcisms, and to help sick people get better. Apparently there would be one at the school.

There was another shaded area created by another parachute. Duang and I sat on the ground in that area.

Directly in front of the stage was a large shaded area created by awnings. Underneath the awnings were neat and orderly rows of tables and plastic chairs set up to eat lunch. The first row of tables was covered with fancy table clothes, bottles of Johnny Walker Red Whiskey and flower centerpieces. These were for special guests. Since this is the Lao People's Democratic Republic, these tables were for the government and Party officials.

To the side of the visitors pavilions were pavilions for the local people. These areas were filling up with many young people dressed in different native costumes along with their parents and of course their many younger brothers and sisters.

We sat there largely ignored by everyone. Duang remarked that this was not like Isaan. She said that in Isaan people would take care of us and ensure that we had food and a chair to sit in. It didn't bother me but I knew that she was right.

We sat and watched the ceremonies. I am not exactly sure of the exact details of the ensuing ceremonies but this is what I think that I saw. The big shots came in and sat down. People were falling over themselves in deference to the authorities. I don't think that it was a coincidence that the prettiest young women were waiting on them. Power has its benefits. In SE Asia power provides you the attention of beautiful young women.

After welcoming speeches by two village officials, the government officials went up on stage and gave their speeches. The government officials were not impressive looking people but they did fit the stereotyped image of a party official. Their speeches were not dynamic or inspiring. From Duang I learned that they were wishing everyone a good New Year, talking about how last year was so good, talked about how everyone had helped each other out, talked about everyone needs to work hard and help each other out, and talked about how much the government had done for the people, and talked about how much the Party had done, and talked about, and talked about. They definitely liked to talk - real Joe Biden type bureaucrats. It was actually kind of humorous - for a while.

After the speeches, there was an exchange of gifts. Gifts and garlands were given to the government dignitaries. The dignitaries and big business leaders then went up on stage and gave cases of beer, bottles of liquor, and envelopes to the village leaders.

After that gift exchange, the Baa Sii ceremony was conducted. The ceremony was similar to that in Isaan but not as much a spiritual ritual. It was more of a social bonding activity. People jockeyed to tie the cotton strings around the big shots. The big shots took it all in and were enjoying themselves. They may have not been good speakers but these guys seemed to know how to party (Perhaps that is why they are referred to as Party Officials ) The cooked chickens that were part of the Baa Sii offering were ripped apart by hand and devoured with gusto. Again it appeared to be an honor to break chicken with the officials. The Baa Sii participants also sat down and drank the liquid out of the ceramic jars through 1/8 inch diameter vinyl tubing or the 3 foot long reeds sticking out of the jars. Occasionally someone, usually a pretty girl, would pour a glass of water from a large tub into the ceramic jar. Other times she would stick a thin bamboo rod up and down in the jar.

After awhile, several people including one female falang tourist came up and got or tied cotton strings around wrists. Duang and I did not get involved. I was busy photographing and Duang sat off in the shade - perhaps sulking?

A man in his late fifties wearing a nice cotton shirt, formal slacks and a suit coat came up to me and invited me on to the saht to sample the liquid out of the jar. He spoke English rather well. It turned out that he was the village headman. I drank from the plastic tubing and enjoyed the beverage that came out of the ceramic jar. I sampled it out of the reed too. It was an interesting experience the communal drinking out of a jar. I called Duang to join us and to drink out of the jar.

That was it. We were not alone for the rest of the day. Mr. Xayaseng invited us to join him at his table to eat and drink. He introduced us to his friends and family. At the end of the day we went to visit him in his home. He has invited us back to visit. He is a remarkable man and gracious host. The people of Lack Paid Village turned out to be as nice as the people of Isaan and Duang was happy.

From Mr. Xayaseng I found out that we were drinking Lao Hai (Rice Wine). The rice wine is made in the village and is fermented either 7 days or 14 days depending on the maker's preference. It is actually very pleasant to drink. The ceramic jars are filled with the mash and the sweet mixture does attract some flies but they don't appear to drink very much and are easily chased away. As the free liquid is used up, fresh(?) water is added to the jar and everyone continues to drink. For those people who prefer to guzzle their brew, your place the jar on a table, drop your thin vinyl tube below the level of the jar to create a siphon action to fill a small empty water bottle with your beverage of choice.

The village that we were at is called Lack Paid Village. It is a village of the Khmu Hill Tribe minority. The Khmu are also known as the "Khamu" or "Kammu". Other inhabitants of the village are Hmong people and another Hill Tribe minority.

The Khmu are the indigenous inhabitants of Northern Laos. There are about 541,000 Khmu in the world. 450,000 Khmu live in Laos - the second largest group in Laos. Interestingly and ironically, there is a large group of Khmu people living in Richmond, California where I worked for many years at the Chevron Refinery.

At the new Years Festival I met two of Mr. Xayaseng's friends who had fought with (WITH not against) the Americans during the Vietnam War. During the Vietnam, aka as the American War, Laos was the site of a secret war. Vietnam used Laos to infiltrate men and supplies into South Vietnam. The US carpet bombed eastern Laos in an attempt to halt the North Vietnamese efforts to support their war efforts in South Vietnam. The US through the efforts of the CIA developed and outfitted a secret Army of "Montenards" (Hmong) and landing strips in Laos. To this day, remnants of the Hmong secret army are engaged in Northern Laos. In mid 2007 the US State Department issued warnings against travel on Hwy 13 from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang due to clashes between the Lao Army and unknown opponents.

All afternoon groups of Hmong and Khmu young people performed traditional dances. In between the dance performances, people would go up and dance on the stage to Lao music - music that is just like the music of Isaan. Several times one of the young Khmu women went onstage and sang a song. She was a very good singer although I had no idea what she was singing about.

By now the distinguished guests were feeling very good and "relaxed". After the young people finished their routine, the big dignitary would go up to them with a wad of money and peel off some bills and give it to them. Power, money, liquor, young women - ahh, the good life! After one performance, the big shot motioned for me to go up there and dance. I told him that after a few more drinks I would but would he pay me too? We had a big laugh!

The music, or was it the rice wine and beer, eventually got to me and I went up on stage with one of the older village women to dance. I asked an elderly woman to dance because earlier Mr. Xayaseng had told me that I could have any of the unmarried girls sitting with us as a girlfriend if I wanted. I thanked him but declined. I am not sure of the Khmu traditions regarding personal relationships. Mr. Xayaseng has only one wife and no girlfriends. However his brother has three wives and 18 children. A friend of his has 4 wives so I suspect that monogamy is not a foundation of their culture.

Dancing at the festival was easy. Men get in a circle inside of a circle of women facing their partner. The circles dance in a counter clockwise rotation. The lower body movements are a slow stroll with slight dipping in best to the music while the hands move in Siam style movements. The villagers were surprised that I could or would dance their way. It was no big deal - I do it all the time in Isaan.

Joe-nee had woken up from his nap and joined us. He enjoyed the dancing and continued to entertain us.

We went to Mr. Xayaseng's home to visit and have a beer. We met his family and got to visit with his friend. Mr. Xayaseng is a farmer in addition to being the village headman. He gets paid to be headman by the Lao government. His duties as headman are not limited to Lack Paid Village. He also has responsibilities at two other villages. He sometimes has to travel by motorbike to Phongsali Province. Phongsali province is Laos's most inaccessible province. (Hmmm … perhaps a future destination) It is bordered by Vietnam and China. According to the Lonely Planet Guide 2005, Hmong people still cultivate opium poppies in the area. The journey by motorbike takes twelve hours if I remember correctly.

Mr. Xayaseng has 4 "gardens" where he raises rice, corn, and teak wood. He rents the land from the government and pays $61 USD a month to the government whether he has a good harvest or not. Ironically the 500,000 kip a month rent that he pays is the same salary that he gets from the government as head man.

We left the village at 4:00 PM with an invitation to return soon. When never did get to see the waterfall but did not mind. We had enjoyed a very unique and satisfying experience with some great people. It is a day like the day we had just experienced that makes living in SE Asia so stimulating, rewarding and exciting.