Monday, January 19, 2009

Akha Hill Tribe People

There are six major Hill Tribes in Thailand. They are the: Akha, Hmong, Lisu, Karen, Lahu, and Yao.

Over a hundred years ago the Hill Tribe people immigrated to Thailand from China, Tibet, Mongolia, through Laos, Vietnam, and Burma. The people were nomadic farmers. "Nomadic Farmers" sounds like an oxymoron but these people farm an area and when the soil was depleted they moved on to the next site.

Each of the Hill Tribe groups is different with their own separate language, culture, religion, art, and clothing.

During the past three years, I have had the pleasure of meeting and photographing all six of the major Hill Tribe groups in Thailand. I have also visited some of the groups in Laos, and Vietnam.

I have no favorite Hill Tribe group. I find each group fascinating and just as interesting as the others. However I do believe that the Akha (Ekaw) people are the most photogenic in the sense of colorful and unique dress.

It is believed that the Akha people migrated from the southeastern region of Yunan Province in China. The Akha spread through Vietnam, Laos, an Burma. Around the start of the last century, they began entering Thailand from Burma.

The clothing of the Akha women, in my opinion, makes the group the most interesting to photograph. The women wear a helmet shaped hat that is heavily decorated with silver coins, colorful strings of beads, and colorful feathers

Akha women wear long dark skirts over dark leggings, a sash around their waist, and a long sleeved jacket made out of indigo dyed hand woven cotton. All of the vestments are heavily decorated with colorful embroidery, silver, and colorful beads.


Akha villages have an elaborate gate at their entrance. Guardian spirits are believed to watch over the village. The village is also believed to be surrounded by many evil spirits. The sacred gates divide the area between the humans and spirits. Each year before planting the new rice crop, the village men led by a shaman rebuild the gates and decorate them with charms as well as symbols of wealth. The evil spirits are warded off by symbols of wealth.

Outside the gates there are figures of people "doing the horizontal mambo", "boom booming", "screwing", "doing the nasty", "humping" or whatever your euphemism is for sexual intercourse. The men although smaller than the women statues, have very large "members". Supposedly human sexuality also keeps the bad spirits away.

The Akha village also has a common area with benches where young people get together in the evening. The young boys and girls have fun flirting, singing, dancing, and "courting". The Akha believe that sexual intercourse strengthens boys and matures girls so I can only imagine what "courting" entails. Duang and I were there in the morning and saw the village men cleaning up the area by trimming the bushes and raking up leaves so I have no details to provide at this time. Perhaps after our next trip to the Akha people, we will have more details but most likely no photos or at least photos that can be shared on the Internet!

Akha houses are raised up on posts. A thatched roof hangs very low over the house sides and the porches on each end.

Inside the house there is an altar for ancestor worship. The altar is typically a bamboo shelf high on a wall with three rice stalks from the latest harvest on it. The floors are compacted dirt and there is a small hearth for cooking over a small wood fire.

The Akha, in my opinion, are the poorest of the Hill Tribes. They were also the most aggressive in wanting money. They push very hard the selling of their handicrafts, and souvenirs. Many expect or ask for money to be photographed. Many Akha just out and out beg for money.

This may be disconcerting to many people but the amount of money to appease them is very small. When you see their situation and understand their limited opportunities, it is not so offensive. You give them some to help them survive or you politely refuse.

My philosophy is to always buy some handicrafts and if asked donate some money to a person for posing for several photographs.

Given the same set of circumstances and conditions as the Akha, I question how aggressive any of us would be. I know how I would be.

To the extent that I can, I would not want to deny someone their daily bread.

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