23 August 2008 - Lent Festival

Saturday, August 23, 2008
Lent Festival

Last night we attended a festival in Baan Nong Khun (??? - spelling in Thailand is a rather free form exercise).

We are in the middle of Buddhist Lent. During this season the Monks are not supposed to leave their Wats. Outside of the Lent season they venture out each morning starting when there is enough light to see the lines in the palm of their hand. They venture out to make themselves available to receive food for the day. People make merit by giving food to the Monks. During the act of giving the Monk some food, the people receive his blessing. The Monks walk about until 8:00 AM when they must be back at their Wat. When we lived in Pattaya we often saw 12 to 14 Monks in the early morning walking along the side of the road. Upon their return to the Wat, the Monks have their meal at 12:00. Some Monks who live in the countryside have only this single meal a day. Other Monks that live inside of city limits will have a second meal at 17:00.

During the Lent season, people earn merit by going to the Wats to provide for the Monk's needs. As was the occasion last night, people organize a fund-raiser for the local Wat. The focus of the event is a, or in many cases, several money trees. On most occasions the money tree is a section of a banana tree trunk. Nine to 12 inch lengths of bamboo strips are stuck into the trunk. The free end of the bamboo strip is split so that paper money can be inserted and held in place. People contribute what they can to festoon the trunk with paper currency. They end up creating a collage of 20 ($0.60 USD), 50 ($1.20 USD), 100 ($3.03 USD), 500 ($15.15 USD), and even 1000 ($30.30 USD) baht bank notes.

Last night the tree was created out of woven reeds similar to the reeds that are used to make the floor mats that are used everywhere around here. The reeds were woven and tied into rather ornate and beautiful stylized trees. In this village there were four trees.

The festival had been going on throughout the day when we arrived. We arrived at 20:00 to participate in the show. Duang's brother was performing in the show and his girl friend drove us to the village. She was driving her new car - a midsize sedan similar to a Toyota Corolla. In the end there were 6 of us in a 5 passenger vehicle - a common occurrence here in Isaan. No complaints - Duang sat on my lap in the front seat. In addition to Duang's brother, the car contained two other performers - older women.

Upon arrival at the village we sat underneath an open-sided metal roof structure. This was reassuring because it rains almost every day now and there was lightening in the distant sky last evening. As soon as we sat down, food and drink were placed before us. Soft drinks and beer were readily available. At some of these events, bottles of whiskey are placed on the table. The food was being prepared by a large cadre of women in the corner. Last night had typical food of kao niewon (sticky rice), plain rice, raw beef with chilies, pork curry, sautéed pork, cooked minced pork with garlic and chilies, noodles and raw vegetables. The food was very good but unfortunately we had eaten prior to our arrival.

The food and drinks are donated by people. On many occasions, people who do not have money to give will donate rice or food along with their labor to gain merit for themselves. The festivals are an outpouring of community spirit and goodwill.
The music portion of the show started with an introduction of local leaders, movers and shakers in the community. Each was introduced, said a few words, was given a rose and then a floral thing over their neck.

One of the local leaders was quite charismatic even though I don't understand Thai.
Following the local movers and shakers were the local area police officials. They got introduced, had their say, and also received a rose as well as garland.

The actual entertainment started with traditional Lao music song by the two older women who arrived with us as well as an elderly man who arrived before us.
These people are apparently known and respected by everyone. They stood up on the stage with a man who played the khaen. The khaen is a reed mouth organ similar to the pan flute. It is a raft configuration of wooden tubes that is blown and sucked through to create an accordion sound.

As one of the singers performed, the others danced. The songs to me appeared to be a free verse type rap in Lao. The singers seemed to be making it up as they went along. Some of the lyrics had to do with the man being able to "boom boom" with the two women onstage. He apparently could, based upon a couple of dance moves onstage. Everyone had a good chuckle and as is the case around here everyone was in good spirits - literally and figuratively. Each performer took around 10 minutes to complete their song.

After the "old guard" completed their set, the show continued with the modern music. The band was comprised of two guitars, drums, two organs, and a saxophone. Some of the songs had four female go-go dancers on stage. The go-go dancers had an elaborate choreographed routine which consisted of many deep pelvic thrusts and gyrations synchronized with the music. Two of the dancers were entertaining to watch due to their lack of emotional attachment and enthusiasm for their performance. One of the dancers was thrilling to watch because of her total commitment to her dancing. She gave it her all while maintaining a seductive smile throughout each long set.

The dancers wore several different costumes through the night. Their costumes consisted of two piece outfits with many colors and sparkles as well as spangles. All of them wear knee high platform boots. They were straight out of the late 60's and early 70's. I often describe these shows as being similar to the Playboy USO show in the movie "Apocalypse Now". The dancers wear head pieces that have a silver sparkling ring with long braided hair extensions coming out of it to complete the retro-look.

The lead female singers in addition to singing also dances albeit in a more restrained style but with all the same moves as the go-go dancers. She wore sparkling platform knee high boots as opposed to the plain leather of the dancers.
The shows do not have any type of nudity but are quite entertaining due to the suggestive movements and high energy content.

When it is time for another singer to commence their performance, the previous performer remains onstage to dance and react to the new performer. The new performer commences their song out of sight. They sing about 1/2 of their first song before appearing onstage. Once on stage they give a wai (Thai bow) to the audience while continuing to sing. They wear elaborate costumes and heavy makeup.
Usually during the second or third song, the original performer will discretely exit the stage.

As the show goes along, people in the audience will approach the stage and give flowers, money and handshakes to the performers - singers and dancers.
It is always enjoyable to attend and participate in these festivals. Last night was no exception.

Tomorrow - Sunday, the villagers will parade to the local Wat to present the Monks with the money trees.