9 November 2008 - Life in Thailand - Part II

Life In Thailand - Part II
9 November 2008

Today we spent the day in Tahsang Village.

There was a celebration marking the second anniversary of the death of a village woman. Her husband from the large city to the south came back to make merit. It is Thai custom to have a celebration marking two years since the death of a loved one. The offering of gifts to the Monks earns merit for the departed as well as the person sponsoring (paying) the event.

We arrived late and only caught the tail end of the parade through the village to the Wat that is on the edge of the village. A large sound truck was at the back of the procession with the villagers dancing in front of it. The teenage boys who had been drinking apparently for awhile took particular pleasure in letting the truck push them forward along the route. Thankfully everyone was able to keep their feet and no one ended up underneath the truck.

As we approached the Wat, three little rockets were set off in succession. The gateway into the Wat's grounds was beautiful. The widower had made to have it restored and redecorated. It was very shiny, and colorful.

Once inside the grounds we made our way up the new concrete stairs into a large elevated wood building. The area at the bottom of the stairs was covered in flip flops shed by the villagers prior to ascending into the building.

The inside of the room was packed with people sitting on "sahts" (woven reed mats). In the front of the room was a slightly raised platform with several Monks seated behind their food bowls and 1.25 liter bottles of soft drinks. At one end of the room there were several pots of prepared food. Several women were preparing to serve these foods.

Hanging over the food from the rafters was a huge rocket. The rocket was so large that its stabilizing fin was a piece of bamboo about 6 inches in diameter and approximately 10 feet long. The rocket had a large main rocket about 9 inches in diameter and 5 feet long. 6 other smaller rockets were strapped to the side of the big rocket. The nose of the rocket had an upraised naga (snake) head sticking up out of it with a snake like body running down the side of the big rocket. It was to be shot as part of the celebration. We didn't get to see it. About three weeks ago, five people were killed due to a malfunctioning rocket. Seeing this rocket made me a true believer.

In the center of the room just in front of the Monk's platform was a telephone booth sized open sided structure. Against this structure were bags of rice, bundles of green coconuts, sugar cane, and other offerings. Off to one side was a large stack of colorful Thai pillows that had been purchased for the Monks. Off to the other side, were two intricately carved black and gold altar type tables with stool. Again these were offerings in honor of the deceased.

I sat at the end of the room with the prepared food. I noticed that there were no other men around. I looked around the crowded room and realized that all the men were on the other side of the room. I questioned Duang about it and she confirmed that the women sit on one side and men on the other side. This is the first time that I had seen or at least noticed this type of arrangement. It may be unique to death celebrations. Anyhow, Duang reassured me that it was OK for me to remain with her because everyone knew that I was a falang (foreigner) and did not know.

After a ceremony with banging of a large gong and formally presenting the offerings to the Monks, the villagers ate the food. We went to Duang's mothers place and had lunch. We returned about an hour later for the entertainment.

As is typical for these Thai celebrations, after the religious ceremonies the people got down to some serious partying. A stage was set up for the band, entertainers, and gogo dancers. People set mats, plastic tables and chairs on the ground and underneath the wooden building where the religious ceremonies had earlier taken place. Beer, whiskey, and Lao Kao (I can't bring myself to call it whiskey - it's more like moonshine) were broken out.

Being the only foreigner in the village and having attended many of these parties, I have a lot of "friends". Someone is always giving me a glass of beer, whiskey and today - one drink of Lao Kao. Those who are not trying to get me drunk or keep me feeling good are trying to get me up and dancing.

I have reached back into the cobwebs and brought back dancing moves from the late sixties with a few Thai classic hand movements. The villagers expect me to dance at every occasion. Dancing here is not like in the USA. You dance more as an individual or part of a large group there is much one on one partner dancing. It is also not a concern or issue that you must dance with a member of the opposite sex or someone masquerading as a member of the opposite sex. Since the songs are all very lively and energetic there is no need for cheek to cheek hand holding styles of dancing. This always makes for a lively dance floor or in the case today dance ground.

Music is a very large part of Isaan culture. Old people get up and dance. Toddlers dance. Little babies are carried on to the dance floor. The teenage boys conduct dance offs amongst themselves or any older guy crazy enough to challenge them .

Later on in the day, after the older people had either tired themselves out or drank to point beyond dancing, the 9 to 12 year old boys took over the dance ground. They were great! They had most of the moves down pat. Once in awhile one of the teenage boys would come over and dance with them or show them a move. The next wave is on their way!

The drinking, dancing, and merry making always seems strange to me to be occurring on religious grounds. But I get over it very quickly. Today was a treat to see a couple of the younger Monks, about 16 years old peeking out of their window at the party. Some of the young boys waved to their friends the Monks.

Well it's getting on to 9:30 PM and I need to wind down for the night - until tomorrow when there will be more about life in Thailand.